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Full text of "An historical, topographical, and descriptive view of the county of Northumberland, and of those parts of the county of Durham situated north of the river Tyne, with Berwick Upon Tweed, and brief notices of celebrated places on the Scottish border .."

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AS 

HISTORICAL,  TOFOORAFHICAL,  AND  DESCBIFTIVE 

VIEW 

OF  THE  COUNTY  OF 

NORTHUMBERLAND, 

AND   OF   THOSE 

PARTS  OF  THE  COUNTY  OF  DURHAM 

« 

SITUATED  NORTH  OF  THE  RIVER  TYNE, 

WITH 

BERWICK  UPON  TWEED, 

AMD 

BRIEF  NOTICES  OF  CELEBRATED  PLACES  ON  THE  SCOTTISH  BORDER. 

OOMFBBHBNOXHa  THX  TABIOUB  80BJBCT8  OP 

VATUHAL,  CIVIL,  AVD  ECCLESIASTICAL  GBOOEAPHY,   AGEICVLTITES,  ICIKES,   MAKVFACTUEBS,   TEADS» 

COMMEECE,   BUILDINGS,   ANTIdUITIES,    CUEIOSITIE8,   PUBLIC   INSTITUTIONS, 
POPULATION,   CUSTOMS,   BIOGEAPHY,   LOCAL   HISTOET, 

Ac  fte> 


Jberoitb  iSHritian, 

CABXFULLT  COEEBCTBD^  AND  OBBATLT  BNLABOBD  WITH  OUEIOt78>  VALUABLE^  AND  AUTHBNTIO  MATTBB. 

VOLUME  I. 


BY  EfVACKENZIE, 


Avikor  qf  the  History  cf  Eggpi,  tmd  Editor  ofTiodem  Oeography,  Seket  Biography,  I^t  qf  Napol$on 

Bonaparie,  4^.  , 


NEWCASTLE  UPON  TYNE  t 

FEINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  ItACKBNZlE  AND  DENT,   ST.   NICHOLAS^  CHUECH-YAEd/ 

Md  fllao  by  SherwoocI,  Nody,  Mid  Jones,  London ;  Chanlqr,  BeU»  and  Sykes,  Newcasde ;  Wation,  GatesheBd ;  Wilkinson  and  DUr, 

Mofpelib  i  Barker,  Hexbam ;  Gunn,  Alnwick ;  Held  and  Wilaon,  Berwick ;  Arthur,  Carlisle  { 
and  by  moat  of  theprbdipal  Booksellers  in  the  North  of  EnglaiML 

18525. 


^  PREFACE. 


I 


The  first  edition  of  the  Hifitory  of  Northumberland  having  been  for  some  years 
out  of  print,  the  demand  for  a  second  one  became  frequent  and  urgent.  *  After 
much  consideration,  this  laborious  work  was  commenced  upon  a  new,  enlarged,  and 
improved  plan.  Jt  commences  with  an  ample  sketch  of  the  natural,  dvil,  and  moral 
history  of  the  county,  and  an  enumeration  of  its  population,  trade,  and  resources ; 
which  is  followed  by  a  separate  description  of  each  Ward,  Division,  Parish,  and 
Township.  The  topographical  part  will  be  found  enlivened  by  biographical  notices 
of  persons  either  distinguished  by  habits  of  eccentricity,  or  for  intellectual  and  moral 
excellence ;  and,  throughout  the  whole,  the  Editor  has  aimed  to  convey  useful  in« 
formation  with  brevity  and  comprehensiveness,  while  he  haa  carefuUy  Otvoided  the 
introduction  of  speculative  and  disputed  opinions. 

In  justice  to  himself,  the  Editor  begs  leave  to  state,  that  he  has  proceeded  in  the 
midst  of  difficulties,  particularly  those  arising  from  the  distraction  occasioned  hy 
other  necessary  pursuits.  He  freely  acknowledges  occasional  inaccuracies ;  but  they 
are  mostly  such  as,  even  with  the  most  sedulous  attention,  seem  hardly  possible  to 
be  avoided  in  a  work  so  multifarious  in  its  notices,  and  published  with  periodical 
expedition.  After  all,  it  is  hoped  that  this  performapce,  in  its  general  character^  in 
executed  consistently  with  the  wishes  of  those  who  have  supported  it. 

Neither  the  publishers  nor  their  numerous  and  respectable  subscribers  are  under 
any  weighty  obligations  to  certain  cdlectcnrs,  or  antiqiiarian  amateurs,  who  are  indufri 
trious  in  procuring,  merely  to  enjoy  the  selfish  pleasure  of  concealing,  matters  of 
local  interest.  The  exceptions  to  this  remark  are,  however,  numerous  and  honour- 
able ;  and  the  communications  received  f^m  many  gentlemen  engaged  in  antiquarian 
researches,  but  who  are  liberalized  by  extensive  knowledge,  have  added  considerably 
to  the  value  of  the  work. 


ir  PREFACE* 

At  the  commencement  of  this  undertaking,  the  late  Thomas  Davidson,  Esq.  of 
Newcastle,  displayed  those  polite  and  kind  attentions  that  so  eminently  distmguished 
his  conduct,  and  which  have  endeared  his  memory  to  all  who  enjoyed  the  honour 
and  happiness  of  his  acquaintance. 

John  Smart,  Esq.  of  Trewitt  House,  with  his  diaracteristic  frankness,  has  commu« 
nicated  several  useful  papers  and  remarks.  C.  W.  Bigge,  Esq.  of  Linden,  W.  C. 
Trevelyan,  Esq.  of  WallingJ»n,  and  the  Rev.  Anthony  Hedley,  of  Wliitfield,  merit 
the  most  grateful  acknowledgments  for  many  hints  and  corrections  which  have 
tended  to  increase  the  accuracy  and  interest  of  the  publication. 

Mr.  John  Dobson,  architect,  has  always  evinced  great  readiness  to  give  his  assist^ 
ance.  To  the  Rev.  W.  D.  Thompson,  of  Crow  Hall,  Mr.  John  Dobson,  of  Ruffside 
Hall,  Mr.  Thomas  Surtees,  of  Corbridge,  Mr.  Edward  Smith,  teacher,  Rothbuiy, 
Mr.  Nicholas  Oliver,  of.  Bambrough,  and  to  several  others  mentioned  in  the  course 
of  the  work,  the  publishers  owe  their  best  thanks. 

The  liberal  kindness  of  Mr.  John  Bell,  land-surveyor.  Windmill  Hillsi  Mr.  James 
Charlton,  of  the  Anchorage-school,  Gateshead,  and  Mr.  William  Clarke,  teachar, 
Newcastle,  will  ever  be  held  in  grateful  reniembrance.  Some  anonymous  corres* 
pondents  have  communicated  valuable  information,  as  also  a  few  gentlemen  who  have 
declined  having  their  names  publicly  noticed. 

Finally,  the  publishers  feel  a  pleasure  in  expressing  their  grateful  sense  of  the  ex- 
t^isive  patronage  they  have  received.  They  have  endeavoured  to  adapt  the  public 
cation  to  the  ^'  taste  and  circumstances  of  the  general  reader,"  whose  candid  approval 
they  anticipate  with  some  degree  of  confidence.  The  publishing  of  the  EQstory  of 
Newcastle  upon  Tyne  in  a  distinct  volume  is  the  only  deviation  from  the  original 
design,  and  arose  from  the  difficulty  of  calculating  with  any  tolerable  degree  of  ac- 
curacy the  probable  extent  of  a  work  embracing  such  a  variety  of  subjects---of  jJaces, 
persons,  and  things.  This,  with  t^he  desire  of  produdpig  a  complete  and  satisfactory 
account  of  one  of  the  most  ^mdent  and  important  towns  in  the  kingdom,  will,  it  is 
hopedy  plead  a  sufficient  apology  for  the  alteration. 


LIST  OF  SUBSCRIBERS. 


[In  a  work  on  local  biiitOTy,  a  list  of  fiil)Mribtn*^ame8  is  always  a  matter  of  curipiUy,  md,  it  nay  be*  of  ntUity.  The  puUuhfity  if^  that  tiie  fUw 
lowing  one  is  so  incomplete,  and  wliich  has  been  entirely  oocasbned  by  some  booksritera  and  agenti.  n^lecting  to  forward  their  lists.  Piom  di« 
retmns  made,  it  is  printed  as  accurately  as  possible,] 


Adams  William^  esq.  Acton 
Adamson  John,  esq.  Newcastle 
Affleck  John  Hall«  printer^  ditto 
Alder  Thomas,  esq.  Mun-ay  Hall 
Alexander  Thomas,  clerk,  Newcastle 
Alexander  W.  schoolmaster,  Fallowden 
Allen  Robert,  attorney,  London 
.  Allison  Rev.  Thos.  Heddon  on  the  Wall 
Amos  A.  D.  agent,  London 
Anderson  Major,  Newcastle 
Anderson  George,  spirit  merchant,  ditto 
Anderson  Thos.  carver  and  gilder,  ditto 
Anderson  Robert,  Howick 
Andrews  G.  bookseller,  Durham,  2  copies 
Andrews  Miss,  dress-maker,  Newcastle 
Appleby  Thomas,  joiner,  Hazon 
Archbo{d  James  Slaiter,  Newcastle 
Archbold  John,  merchant,  Wooler 
Arkless  Benjamin,  ^ewer,  Tantobj 
Arkless  John,  viewer,  Fatfield 
Arkless  George,  viewer.  High  Heworth 
Armstrong  W.  schoolniaster,  Gateshead 
Armstrong  William,  overman,  ^etton 
Armstrong  Francis,  Blanchland 
Arundale  Thomas,  skinner,  Newcastle 
Askew  Thomas,  potter,  St.  Peter's. 
Atcheson  Adam,  esq.  Lorbottle 
Atkin  — ,  woollen  manufacturer,  Alston 
Atkins  John,  spirit  merchant,  Alnwick 
Atkinson  Christopher,  esq.  Ewart 
Atkinson  Adam,  esq.  Lorl)ottle 
Atkinson  Henry,  weaver,  Newcastle 
Atkinson  Robert,  potter,  Ouseburn 
Atkinson  James,  currier,  Morpeth 
Atkinson  Joseph,  overman,  Philadelphia' 
Atkinson  William,  smith,  Seaton  Sluice 
Atkinson  £dward>  farmer.  New  Houses 

by  Kirkharle 
Aynsley  William,  Plover  Hill 
Aynsley  Edward,  Bedlington 
Aynsley  Captain,  ditto 
Aynsley  John,  North  Shields 
Ayre  J.  publisher,  Sunderland,  2  copies 
Ayre  Meanly^  Berwick 

Backhouse  Jonathan,  fesq.  Sunderiand 
Bailey  Nicholas,  esq.Gallow  Hill  House 
Bainbridge  — ^  solicitor,  Alston 
Baker  Ciesswell  J.  A.  esq.  Cresswell  Hall 
Bankes  John,  bleacher.  Els  wick 
Barker  Matthew,  bookseller,  Hexham, 

21  copies     I 
Barkess  William,  viewer,  Allendean 
Barraa  John,  tailor,  Newcastle 
Barry  John,  ship-owner,  Sunderland 
Bates  Robert,  butcher,  Newcastle 
Beayon  Frederick^  M.  D.  Acton  House 


Beck  John,  grocer,  Newcastle 

Beeney  Isaac,  painter,  ditto 

BeU  Matthew,  esq.  Wpolsingham 

Bell  Henry,  esq.  Newbiggin  House 

Bell  Jcim,  London 

Bell  T.  bookseller,  Newcastle,  2  copies 

Bell  John,  surveyor.  Windmill  Hills 

Bell  George,  Low  Forse,  Bedlington 

Bell  Thomas,  currier,  Uarlisle 

Bell  Mrs.  Bedlington 

Bell  William,  fitter^  Sunderlmid 

Bell  Matthew,  Barrasford  Fell 

BeU  Joseph,  Bowsden 

Bell  Matthew,  Richmond 

Bell  Greenwell,  mason,  Fourstones 

Bell  Robert,  mariner,  Sunderland 

Bell  -— ,  agent,  Stublick  colliery 

Bellamy  Robt.  farmer.  Little  Greencroft 

Belt  Robert,  sail-cloth  manufacturer, 

Newcastle 
Bennet  John«  Blyth  Links 
Berwick  SulMcription  Library 
Bigge  C.  W.  esq.  Linden 
Bigge  Mrs.  T.  Benton  House 
Birch  William^  gent.  Westgate 
Birkinshaw  J.  Bedlington  Iron-works 
Birkitt  Rev.  James,  Ovingham 
Black  Robert,  Ingram 
Blackburn  Peter,  Blanchland 
Blackett  Christopher,  esq.  Wylam 
Blackett  — ,  clerk,  Dunstan 
Blair  Peter^  bookseller,  Morpeth 
Blair  Thomas,  Abbey  Mills  near  ditto 
Blair  John,  farmer,  Oakpool  Bridge 
Blake  John,  tailor,  Morpeth 
Blakey  James,  Heworth  Shore 
Blenk  Joshua,  Blanchland 
Blyth  Henry,  gent.  Bishopwearmouth 
Bolam  Henry,  pitman,  Coxlodge 
Bond  Joseph,  Alnwick 
Bones  — ,  innkeeper,  Lemington 
Booth  G.  broker,  Sunderland 
Booth  Thomas,  flax-dresser,  Newcastle 
Bosanquet  Charles,  esq.  Rock 
Bowmaker  Ralph,  Lamesley  Moor  Hill 
Bowman  Jas.  custom-house,  Newcastle 
Bowman  William,  farmer,  Bimey  Hill 
Bowman  M.  farmer,  Kirkwhelpington 
Bowman  John,  saddler,  Brampton 
Bowness  Geo.  shopkeeper,  Allanshead 
Boyd  — ,  cabinet-maker,  Alnwick 
Brandon  WiUian^,  esq.  London 
Brandling  Chablss  John,  esq.  M.P* 

Gkwforth 
Brandling  William,  esq.  Low  Gosforth 
Brandling  John,  esq.  Gosforth 
Branley  — ^  teacher,  Nent  Hall 

b 


Brewis  Thomas,  fanner,  Needlipss  Hall 
Brewis  William,  farmer,  Thropple 
Brown  Dixon,  esq.  Benton 
Brown  Thomas,  solicitor,  NewQ^tle 
Brown  William,  cooper,  dittp 
Brown  John,  builder,  ditto 
Brown  John,  publican,  ditto 
Brown  Matthew,  farmer,  Corbridge 
Brown  Robert,  shopkeeper,  Cullerooats 
Brown  John,  smith,  Hebron 
Brown  John,  Allendale  town 
Brown  Martin,^  pitman.  Bog  Row 
Brown  Peter,  baker.  South  Shields 
Brown  John,  cabinet-maker.  Brandling 

Place 
Brown  Henry,  farmer,  Ingo 
Brown  William,  innkeeper,  Alnwick 
Brown  Thomas,  Sterling'  Town,  New 

York,  U.  S. 
Brown  Jacob,  custom-house,  N.  Shields- 
Brown  Robt.  near  Newcastle  Barracks 
Brown  Robt.  spirit  merchant,  Hebbiirn 
Bruce  John,  teacher,  Newcastle 
Brumell  Henry,  esq.  Morpeth 
Brumwell  G.  porter  mercht.  Newcastle 
Bryson  Robert,  builder,  ditto 
Buddie  John,  esq.  CarvUle 
BuUoek  John,  publican,  Gateshead 
BurdQu  Sir  Thomas,  knt.  Jesnumd 
Burlison  John,  gardener,  Fenham 
Bum  Matthew,  Yorkshire 
Bum  — >,  £urmer.  Cat -row 
Bum  Ralph,  butcher,  Seaton  Sluice 
Bum  MissM.  White  Hart  Inn,  Hexham^ 
Bum  Johnj  esq.  solicitor,  London 
Burnett  James,  millwriffht,  Newcastle 
Burnett  H.  bookseller,  Sunderland 
Bumup  Richard,  agent.  Bunker  Hill 
Burrell  Robert,  esq.  Durham 
Buston  Thomas,  esq.  Buston 
Buston  Roger,  esq.  High  Buston 
Busby  M.  G.  surgeon,  Alnwick 

Cairns  G^rge,  fanner,  Lysom 
Cairns  James,  draper,  Wooler 
Caley  John,  esq.  London 
Campbell  Henry,  bootmaker,  London 
Campbell  John,  surgeon,  Dunse 
Cambo  Subscription  Library 
Carlisle  Subscription  Library 
Camaby  Ra.  cabinet  maker,  Newcastle 
Carpenter  J.  C.  esq.  Ford 
Carr  John,  esq.  ditto 
Carr  John^  esq.  Alnwick 
Carr  John,  shoemaker,  Corbridge 
Carr  Ed.  innkeeper,  Newton  by  the  Sea 
Carr  William^  clerkj  Jarrow 


\{ 


\ 


LIST  OF  SUBSCRIBERS. 


Canrick  Joha,  Newcastle 
Carter  — >  crate  maker^  ditto 
Castles  Joseph,  innkeeper,  Warkworih 
Chambers  Alex,  coac^iman,  Whickham 
Chambers  William,  Longfiramlington 
Chapman  Wm.  esq.  banker,  Newcaande 
Charlton    James,    Anchorage-school, 

Gkteshead 
Charlton  Thos.  clergy  school,  Newcastle 
Charlton  Ralph,  ditto 
Charlton  John,  grammar  school,  Durham 
Charlton  Pet.  grocer.  North  Shields,  d. 
Charlton  John,  farmer,  Onbion 
Charlton  William,  firmer,  Corbridge    > 
Charlton  Forster,  spirit  dealer,  Blyth 
Charlton  Robert,  nailor,  Bedlington 
Charlton  Ann,  innkeeper,  Hexham 
€9iarhon  J.  H.  snrgeon,  ditto 
Charlton  William,  mnkeeper,  ditto 
Charlton  Anthony,  solicitor,  Morpetii 
Charlton  Robert,  schoolmaster,  Kirk<- 

whelpington 
Charlton  Adam,  Sunderland 
Charlton  — >  attorney,  Howden 
Chisholm  William,  foundry,  Durham 
Chishohn  Ralph,  publican,  Alnwick 
Chisholm  John,  New  Haggerston 
Clark  G^rge,  painter,  Durham 
Clark  William,  shoemaker,  Newcastle 
Clark  Joseph,  bookseller,  ditto 
Chrke  J.  6.  esq.  Fenlmm 
Clarke  Rev.  Robert,  Walwick,  d. 
Clarke  William,  teacher,  Newcastle 
Clarke  William,  overman,  Cowpen 
Clarke  Michael,  watchmidcer,  Morpeth 
Clementson  — ,  Allendale  town 
Coates  Thomas,  esq.  Lipwood  Hall 
Cochrane  WiUkim,  Livery  Stables 
Cock  William,  Low  Heworth 
Codling  James,  Newcastle 
Compton  Fenwick,e8q.NewLearmouth 
Cook  Rev.  Jos^h,  I^^wton  Hall 
Cook  Captain,  Durham 
Cook  Captain,  R.  N.  Whalton 
Gook  Wuliam,  esq.  Cambo 
Cook  James,  publican 
Cook  William,  fiirrier,  Newbottle 
Cookson  Isbac,  esq.  Newcastle 
Cookson  Isaac,  jun.  esq.  Park  House 
Cooper' Samuel,  viewer,  Percy  Main 
Coppin  William,  esq.  Blyth 
Couison  John,  spirit  mercht.  Newcastle 
Conlson  Matthew,  grocer,  Hexham 
Coventry  Andrew,  baker.  North  Shields 
Cox  Joseph,  esq.  Brampton 
Cowans  William,  draper,  Newcastle 
Cowens  James,  tailor,  Seaton  Sluice 
Coward  Robert,  farmer.  Link  House 
Coward  Robert,  Crow  Hall 
Coxon  Qeo,  tallow  diandler,  Newcastle 
C&AMLiNOTON   Henry,   esq.   mayor, 

Newcastle 
Craster  Edmund,  esq.  Preston,  d. 
Craster'Shaftoe,  esa.  Craster 
Craw  Miss,  Fatfield 
Crawford  David,  esq.  Wcs^nle 


Crawford  John,  esq.  North  Shields 
Crawford  P.  R.  Warden  Paper-mill 
Crawford  Thomas,  ooal^owner,  Durham 
Crawford  Mrs.  Newcastle,  d. 
Crawford  T.  former,  near  S^ton  Delaval 
Crawford  John,  fomer,  Lookofut 
Crawford  William,  former,  Monkseaton 
Crawford  William,  Netherton  Peak 
Crozier  George,  Whinney  Hill 
Cruddas  Thomas,  colliery  viewer,  Lum« 

ley  Thicks 
Curry  William,  publican.  Cow  €hite 
Cust  Richard,  esq.  Carlisle 
Cuthbert  John,  mariner.  Low  Heworth 
Cutforth  Timothy,  brdcer,  Newcastle 

Daslish  James,  Coldstream 
Date  Peter,  manufocturer.  Walker 
Dale  Thomas,  agent,  Hexham  Brewery 
Daleson  John,  gent.  Iron  Sign 
Davidson  Thomas,  esq.  Newcastle,  d. 
Davidson  John,  esq.  Otterbum 
Davidson  Thomas,  Iliclua*d  Pit 
Davidson  Alexander,  esq.  Swarland 
Davidson  — ,  excise-office,  Richmond 
Davison  William,  bookseller,  Alnwick 
Davison  Mrs.  Lowick 
Davison  Alexander,  ditto 
Davison  Ralph,  former,  Crawcrook 
Davison  John,  esq.  Lanton 
Daviion  George,  former.  Rock 
Davison  William,  brewer,  Monkseaton 
Davison  Thomas,  baker.  South  Shields 
Davis  Robert,  surgeon,  Ayton  Banks 
Dawson  Abraham,  solicitor,  Newcastle 
Dawson  John,  Hilton  Pottery 
Dawson  — ,  gent.  Haltwhistle 
Dawson  Thos.  glass-cutter,  Newcastle 
Dawson  Thomas,  shoemaker,  Morpeth 
Dawson  Thomas,  brewer,  Bedlinpton    ' 
Debord  Henry,  ship-owner,  Blyth 
Dennis  P.  surgeon,  Alnwick 
Dent  John,  asent,  Painshaw 
Dial  John,  Morton 

Dickman'T.  cabinet-maker,  Newcastle 
Dickinson  Robert,  stationer,  Hexham 
Dickinson  Robert,  innkeeper,  Embleton 
Dickinson  John,  butcher,  Jarrow 
Dickinson  — ,  former,  near  Allendale 

town 
Dickinson  John,  Greenwich  Hospital 
'  office,  Newcastle 
Dinning  Henry,  esq.  Newlands 
Dixon  Edward,  innkeeper,  Newcastle 
Dixon  George,  shoemaker.  New  York 
Dixon  Thomas,  miller,  Gateshead 
Dixon  John,  tailor,  Sunderland 
Dixon  Robert,  mariner.  South  Shields 
Dobson  William,  surgeon,  Sunderland 
Dobson  Edward,  Dilston  Mill 
Dodd  Thomas,  esq.  Riding 
Dodd  Rev.  M.  Ingram 
Dodd  — ,  Allendale 
Dodd  Robert,  Carlisle  * 

Dodd  Eidward,  tanner,  Hexham 
Dodds  Midiael,  esq.  Conihill 


Dodds  Ralph,  plasterer,  Keweaatb 
Dodds  T«  w.  surgeon,  Lanchester 
Dodds  John,  Cresswell 
Dodds  Isaac,  mason,  Ayton  Banks 
Dodds  John,  publican,  Ahiwick 
Dodds  John,  pavior,  ditto 
Dolphin  John,  mine  aeent,  RuiRdde  Hall 
-Donaldson  Jos.  schocSmaster,  Chatton 
Donkin  Henry,  esq.  Durham 
Donkin  William,  esq.  Sandhoe 
Donkin  William,  solicitor,  Hexham 
Donkin  John,  joiner,  Gateshead  Fell 
Donkin  Robert,  former,  Ingram 
Donkin  Robert,  teacher,  \^rden 
Dove  Sarah,  innkeeper,  Greenhead 
Doubleday  Captain  Henry,  Durham 
Douglas  John,  M.  D.  Sunderland 
Douglas  Thomas,  schoolmaster,  Alnwidc 
Douglas  John,  artist,  Kensington 
Downing  John,  grocer,  Newcastle 
Dowson  James,  publican,  Cramlington 
Dryden  John,  Blyth  Docks 
Dryden  — ,  post-master,  Alston 
Dunford  Thomas,  derk,  Newcastle,  d. 
Dunn  M.  esq.  Stella  Hall 
Dunn  Matt,  grammar-school.  Hough*- 

ton-le-Spring 
Durham  Subscription  Library 

« 

Egdell  Samuel,  innkeeper,  Alnwick 
Egdell  Robert,  butcher,  Warkworth 
Eggleston  John,  chemist,  Newcastle 
Egeleston  Thomas,  derk,  Durham 
Elder  William,  publican,  Longhoughton 
Elliott  Robert,  former,  Barrasford 
Elliott  Robert,  whitesmith,  Newcastle 
Elliott  William,  bakor,  ditto 
Elliott  James,  upholsterer,  ditto 
Ellison  Cuthbbbt,  esq.  M.  P.  Heb- 

bum  HaU 
Ellison  Cuthbert,  baker.  South  Shields 
Elsdon  Henry,  engineer,  Cowpen 
Eladon  Thomas,  pipe-maker,  Gateshead 
Eltringham  Thomas,  bacon  merchant, 

Newcastle 
Embleton  Richard,  tanner,  ditto 
Emmerson  Thomas,  former,  Ovington 
English  Wm.  engineer.  Bow,  London 
English  Thomas,  hind,  Sheepwash 
English  John,  Lon^hurst 
Emngton  John,  skmner,  Cxateshead 
Errington  Robert,  Stannington  Moor 
Errington  Thomas,  Gateshead 
Errington  Fran,  publican,  Long^UMraley 
Erskine  Colonel,  Durham 

Fawcus  John,  Dunston  Steads 
Pairbridge  John,  surgeon,  Hexham 
Fairlamb  — ,  Hexham 
Fenwick  J.  Ralph,  M.  D.  Durham 
Fenwick  Ralph,  esq.  Shortridge 
Fenwick  John,  esq.  Camnville 
Fenwick  Nicholas,  esq.  North  Shields 
Fenwick  Benj.  viewer,  Percy  Main- 
Fenwick  Jdm,  solicitor,  Newcastle 
Fenwick  -^  Bowre's  Houses,  Durham 


LIST  OF  SUBSCRIBERS. 


yu 


FergpiMni  Thtm.  Newcastle  Bank 
Forrest  Walter,  New  Town  Mill 
Forrester  Tbos.  draper,  Oreenhead 
Forster  Johiij  pawtifaroker,  Newcastle 
Forster  Edward,  Cowpen  ooUiery 
Foreman  Thos.  shoemaker,  Blytn 
Forster  Francis,  esq.  ChiUiiigliamfBamB 
Forster  Percival,  esq.  DurfaAii^ 
^  Fprster  William,  shoemaker,  Blyth 
Forster  £.  Cowpen 
Forster  Thos.  shoemaker,  Tritlington 
Forster  George,  Longhope. 
Forster  John,  slioemdcer,  Corbridge 
Forster  Nicholas,  tinsmiUi,  Blyth 
Forster  John,  publican,  Thropton 
Forster  Ralph,  Longhoughton. 
Forster  Lionel,  grocer,  l£>ath  Shields 
Forster  Oeorge,  stewwrd,  Hebbnm 
Forster  — >  butcher.  West  Moor 
Forsyth  llioB.  Serjeant  at  Mace,  &c. 

Newcastle. 
Forsyth  John,  Slater,  Durham 
Fraser  Hugh,  shoemaker,  Newcastle 
Friar  Rob^,  sinker,  Willington 
Fumass  J.  R.  Rev.  Ponteland 

Gardner  James,  smith,  Jesmond 
Gare  John,  blacksmith,  Blyth 
Qwtg^  P.  Rev.  Durham 
George  — ,  esq.  Crook  Hall,  Durham 
Geoige  Henry,  surgeon,  Luiohester 
Gibson  ThiMuas,  esq.  Newcastle 
Gibson  Mary,  Ford 
CKbson  John,  painter,  Newcastle 
Gibson  James,  draper,  ditto 
Gibson  George,  joiner,  ditto, 
Gibson  Thos.  spirit  mer.  Gietna  Green 
Gibson  Wm.  Ghreenshaw  Phdn. 
Gibson  Wm.  innkeeper,  Corbridge 
Gibson  Robert,  grocer,  Birtley 
Gilespie  James,  Coostly-bum-foot 
Gill  Henry,  esq.  Williamstone,  Cnm« 

berland 
Gill  William,  builder,  Hilton. 
Gill  William,  farmer,  Kenton 
Gills  Robert,  sheriff's  office,  Newcastle 
Glaholm  Edward,  Chatton. 
Glaister  Robert,  W.  S.  Kelso 
Gledston  James,  farmer,  Laverick-hall 
GledstQU  Thomas,  Urpeth  paper  mill,  d. 
Glover  William,  draper.  South  Shields 
Goftoa  Geeige>  fiunmer,  Penny«hill 
Grace  John,  esq.  Carville  HaU 
Grace  Nathaniel,  esq.  Sootchwood 
Graham  George  Rev.  Doddi^on 
Graham  Robt.  gamekeeper,  Boiuiront 
Graham  John,  tobacconist,  Hexham. 
Graham  — ,  innkeeper,  Armthwaite 
Gray  William,  publican.  Hartley 
Gray  Edward,  nirmer,  Pless^ 
Gray  William,  Craster  Sea-Hoi)8es 
Green  Robert  Rev.  Newcastle 
Green  James  Rev.  Washington 
Green  William,  sawyer,  Newcastle 
Green  William,  builder,  Corbridge 
Green  Qeoige,  orenaan,  Reat^m 


GreenWell,  W.  T.  esq.  Greenwell  Ford 
Greener  William,  innkeeper,  Wylam 
Greenwood  Robt.  rev.  Blyth  Link  House 
Gregson  John,  esq.  Durham 
Grey  John,  lieut-col.  Shorston  House 
Grey  C^eoree,  esq.  Middle  Ord 
Grey  Jose^,  derk.  Low  Felling 
Grey  John,  esq.  Milfield  HiU 
Grimth  H.  D,  rev.  Newcastle 
Grundy  William,  gamekeeper,  Cowdose 

Ha^gerston,  Thos.  esq.  Ellingham 

Haur  Thos*  innkeeper,  Bedlington 

Hall  Benjamin,  viewer.  Walker 

Hall  Jas.  shipowner,  Monkwearmouth 

Hall  Ridley,  gent.  Corbri^e 

Hall  John,  clerk,  Newcastk 

Hall  John,  tailor,  ditto 

Hall  Thomas,  Crookham 

Hall  Georse,  Dunston  Square 

Hall  Jas.  wipbuilder,  Monkwearmouth 

Hall  Joseph,  Red-house,  near  Howden 

Hamilton  John,  Hexham 

Harle  Thos.  Custom-house,  Newcastle 

Hardy  Martin,  butcher,  Hetton 

Harrison  John,  iron-founder,  N.  Shields 

Harrison  Thos.  fiEumer,  Long  Acres 

Harrison,  Geo.  butcher,  Newcastle. 

Harrison  — ,  Sunderland 

Hart,  Henry;  manuflEicturer,  Newcastle 

Hawtborn  Wm.  engineer,  Newcastle 

Haydon,  J.  rev.  Hiul 

Head  Charles,  manor-office,  Hexham 

Hebbudc,  Wm,  farmer,  WestSleekbum 

Hedley  Anthony,  rev.  Whitfield 

Hedley  A.  surgeon,  Felton 

Hedley  Joseph,  Westgate,  Newcastle 

Hedley  William,  agent,  ditto 

Hedley  John,  finrmer,  Whitdiester 

Hedley  Thomas,  erooer,  Newbum 

Hedley  Edward,  brewer,  Monkseaton 

Henderson  Henry,  agent,  Newcastle 

Henderson  Jas.  Ccvrection  House  Mor-^ 

peUi 
Henderson  Hen.  merchant,  Warkworth 
Henderson  Ed.  shoemaker,  LonghOTsley 
Henderson  Jas.  Whitecaps,  Durham 
Hepple  J,  viewer,  Benwell  colliery 
Hepple  George,  West  Moor 
Hepple  John,  publican,  Seaton  Sluice 
Hepple  Bartholomew,  Kenton 
Heron  Wm.  shoemaker,  Coxlodge 
Heslop  Thomas,  miner,  Allenheads 
Hetherington  Jelin,  dark,  Newcastle 
Hetherington  — >  steward,  NenAead 
Hew^all  Paul,  corver,  Ouston 
Hewitson  Henry,  esq.  Seaton-bum  Plot- 
tage. 
Hewitson  John,  &nner>  Benton  Cottage 
Hewitson  r*-,  sui^geon.  Stanhope  Wear- 
dale 
Hill  Christ.  Septimus,  custom-house, 

Sunderland 
Hills  Jacob,  Bedlincton 
Hind  Mark,  linen-mper,  Newcastle 
Hines  Jol^n,  soUdtor,  jDurham 


Hines  Edward,  solicitor,  Sunderland 
Hobson  John>  esq.  Durham 
Hobson  Robinson,  butcher,  Newbottle 
Hodgson  John  rev.  Kirkwhelpington 
Hodgson  John,  hatter,  Newcastle 
Hodgson  Joseph,  Cowpen  Mill 
Hol£r^  — ,  fanner,  BiUy-miU 
Hope  Robert,  innkee^,  Chatton 
Hope  — ,  Burdon  Mam  Cottage 
Hopper  Matthew,  saddler,  Newcastle 
Horn  Robert,  esq.  Bishopwearmouth,  d. 
Horsley  Wm.  colliery  agent,  Willington 
Howden  — -,  mason,  Haydon-bridge 
Howe  Johnson,  Berwick 
Hoy  Alexander  rev.  Felton 
Husdell  Jacob,  fitter,  MoiJcwearmouth 
Hudson  J.  M.  surgeon,  Durham 
Hudson  Robert,  carpenter,  Howden 
Hudspeth  Thos.  Bowsdon 
Huggup  William,  West  Sleekbum 
Humble  F.  Advertiser  Office,  Durham 
Hume  John>  farmer,  Hartlaw. 
Hunter  James,  viewer,  Walbottle 
Hunter  Wm.  sho^naker,  Killingworth 
Hunter  Wm.  shoemaker,  Norwood 
Hunter  John,  butcher,  Gat^ead 
Hunter  William,  shoemaker,  Blyth 
Hunter  James,  Alnwick 
Hutchinson  Ralph,  esq.  Durham 
Hutchinson  Thos-  solidtor,  Sedgefield 
Hutchinson  William,  Newbiggen  Hope 
Hutton  Anthony,  grocer,  Alnwick 

Jackson  J.  esq.  London 

Jackson  Robt.  pitman,  Howden  Pans 

Jackson  George,  farmer,  Lowstead,  If 

Lowick. 
Jackson  Ralph,  Morton 
Jackson  Robert,  Sunderland 
James  CoUingwood  Forster,  esq.  Kirk- 
Newton 
James  Joseph,  flour-dealer,  Newcastle 
James  Edward,  miller,  near  Newcastle 

Barracks  ^ 

Jameson  Mark,  esq.  Berwick 
Jameson  Job,  tailor,  Newcastle 
JefiTeries  Jos.  fiuoner,  Ellington  Moor. 
JefiTerson  Thomas,  surgeon,  Hexham 
JefiTery  Robert,  brewer,  Warkworth 
Iley  — ,  Stanhope,  Weardale 
Ingledew  Henry,  solidtor,  Newcastle 
Innes  John,  custom-house,  Blyth 
Jobson  William,  esq.  Chillingham  New 

To>vn 
Jobson  Robert,  esq*  Turvelaws 
Jobsoa  Mark,  gent.  Ousebum 
Johnson  James,  esq.  Carey  Coatee 
Johnson  Geoige,  esq.  WilUngton 
Johnson  Frauds,  esq.  Woodhom 
Johnson  John,  paper-maker,  Gateahead 
Johnson  William,  Cottingwobd 
Johnson  Robert,  agent,  Leith 
Joice  Hugh,  euffine-wri^ht,  Hetton 
Jones  John,  innkeeper,  Hexham . 
Jones  — ,  Durham 
Joures  Andrew^  tailor>  South  Shielda 


Tin 


LIST  OF  subscribers: 


Irwin  *^>  land-agent^  Percy  Main 
Irwin  Archboldj  saddler^  North  Shields 

Kay  John>  pnUican,  North  Shields 

Keenlyside  John^  brewer^  Blyth 

KeU  — ,  ^un.  Wall 

Kelly  William^  grocer,  Newcastle 

Kemp  Miss,  Newcastle 

Kirkaldy  Alex,  agent,  Monkwearmouth 

Kirknp  Wm.  Houghton-le-spring 

Kirsop  — ,  £unier.  Lees,  by  Haydon 

Bridffe 
Kyle  Gibson^  builder^  Stannington 

Lackenby  Thos.  innkeeper,  Morpeth 
Laidler  llios.  Warkworth  North  Field 
Xiaidler  Qteo.  schoolmaster,  Seaton  Slnice 
Laing  Alexander,  East  Ord 
Lamb  Joseph,  esq*  Lemington  House 
Lambert  Robson,  farmer,  Dilston 
Lambert  J.  overman.  New  Allotment 
Lambton  J.  Obo.  esq.  M.  P.  Lambton 

HaU 
Lambton  J.  Ralph,  esq.  Murton  Hall 
Lancaster  —,  glassman^  Ousebnm 
Landells  Eben.  haberdasher,  Newcastle 
Lathan  Thomas,  pidtter,  Southwick 
Laws  Matthew,  Weetslet 
LawBon  M.  D.  C.  esq.  Cramlington 
Lawson  William,  esq.  Longhnrst  Hall 
Lawson  Edward,  Blakemoor 
Lawson  George,  Longhnrst  Granee 
Lawson  G^.  mason,  rleddon-on-Wall 
Lax  Reed;  butcher,  Newcastle 
Ledger  Sam.  oVerman,  Colliery  Dykes 
Legge  Lewis,  brewer.  East  Renton 
Lee  Mat.  farmer,  near  Haydon-bridge 
Lee  Thomas,  shoemaker,  Bedlington 
Leighton  Thomas,  esq.  Newcasm 
Leiffhton  Thos.  fiaraier,  Cockley  Walls 
Liddell  Christopher,  cooper,  Newcastle 
Liddle  John,  teacher,  Newbiggin 
Lilbnm  Robert,  fiurmer,  Preston 
Linskill,  Wm.  eso.  Tynemonth  Lodge 
Literary  and  Phuosophiod  Society, 

Newcastle 
Literary,  Scientific,  and  Mechanical 

Institution,  Newcastle 
Little  Archibald,  excise-ofB.  Newcastle 
Lonsdale  George,  farmer,  Cowpen 
Logie  William,  tobacconist,  Newcastle 
Longridge  Richd.  potter,  St.  Anthons 
Losh  James,  esq.  Jesmond 
Losh  William,  esq.  Point  Pleasant 
Lowrey  William,  gent  Barmoor  ' 
Lowrey  George,  sursecm,  Corbridge 
Lowrey  J.  dogger,  Morpeth 
Lowes  George,  postman,  Sunderland 
Luke  Ann  Miss,  Alnwick 
Lumsden  Wm.  innkeeper,  Shilbottle 
Lunn  John,  cartman,  Newcastle 
Lynn  William,  teacher,  Whittington 
Lynn  John,  tailor.  South  Shields 

M'Cree  William,  clerk,  Snnderland 
M'Cree  Thomas,  Newcastle 


M'Donald,  Daniel,  teadker,  Sunderland 
M'Lean,  Tliomas,  Wool^  Common 
McLean  William,  bak»,  Newcastle 
M'Fee  John,  draper,        ditto 
M'Laochlan  James,  tea-dealer,  ditto 
Ma<»regor  Alex.  Wooler  Cottage 
Mackensie  Thomas,  Acklington  Park 
Maddlson  Geoi^,  farmer,  Chatton 
Makepeace  Robert,  Denwick 
Marley  Wm.  cheesemonger,  Newcastle 
Mark  — ,  Brampton 
Marsden  Thomas,  Durham 
Marshall  Robert,  esq.  cem-marchant, 

Newcastle 
Marshall  John,  bookseller,  Newcastle 
Marshall  James,  derk,  Sunderland 
Marshall  — ,  Westoe 
Martindale  J.  esq.  High  Flatts 
Martinson  Edw.  schodmaster,  Stella 
Marvel  J.  druggist,  Monkwearmouth 
Mather  John,  agent.  South  Shields 
Maughan  Wm.  brakesman,  Wheatley 
Maughan  Fran,  tailor.  West  Auckland 
Maxwell  Thomas,  Waterloo,  Blyth 
Meadows  Jos.  roper,  N<Mth  Shields 
M^lgison  Thos.  shopkeeper,  S.  Shields 
Meynard  Robert,  attorney,  London 
Mickelam — ^,  raff-merchant  Monkwear- 
mouth 
Midfbrd  — ,  gardener,  Morpeth 
Milbum  Thos.  New  York,  U.  S. 
Milbum  Robt.  woollens-draper,  New- 
castle 
Milbum  George,  gardener,  Ashington 
MObum  Roger,  mrmer,  Cramlington 
Milbum  C&istopher,  saddler,  Stam- 

fordham 
Mill^  James  rev.  Durham 
Miller  Christopher,  agent,  Sunderland 
Mitchell  Robt.  work-house,  Bedlington 
Mitdiell  Charles,  roper,  Willington 
Milner  Charles,  esq.  Hedley  House 
Moffit  James,  surgeon,  Hexham. 
Moffit  William,  surgeon,  Howden 
Mole  John,  farmer,  Embleton 
Mordue  Jos.  teacher,  Wallsend,  3  copies 
Moor  Samuel,  Southwick  pottery 
Moore  Thomas,  gardener,  Jesmond 
Moore  Wm.  joiner.  Three-mile-bridge 
Moore  Stephen,  farmer,  Newmoor 
Moore  William,  farmer,  Thropple 
Moore  Thomas,  farmer,  Coldwells 
Morris  Stephen,  engineer,  Ousebum 
Morris  WiDiam,  viewer,  Onston 
Morrison  John,  butcher,  Newcastle 
Morrison  John,  bntcher,  Alnwick 
Morton  Edward,  fieirmer,  Horton    . 
Muers  John,  innkeeper,  Warkworth 
Mulcaster  James,  agent,  Langley  Mills 
Munro  Robert,  tinman,  Newcastle 
Murray  John,  surgeon,  ditto 
Murton  Thomas,  esq.  Horton 
Murton  Michael,  roper.  North  Skidds 
Mushcamp  — ,  Brotner-lee,  Weardale 

Katers  Bat^,  esq.  Sandyford 


Nelson  William,  esq.  East  LlIbDm 
Nelson  John,  smith,  Sunderland 
Nelson  John,  agent,  Wdker 
Nesbitt  Joseph,  publican.  Stepney 
Nesbitt  John,  shoemaker,  Warkworth 
Nesbitt  William,  Ixmghoughton 
Newton  John,  esq.  London 
Newton  Samud,  ostler,  Newcastle 
Newton  William,  gardener,  Alnwidc 
Nichol  John,  confectioner,  Newcastle 
Nicholson  George  Kerr,  Berwick 
Nicholson  James,  agent,  Blyth 
Nicholson  Thomas,  derk,  Bedlingtmi 
Nicholson  Thomas,  architect,  Hexham 
Nicholson  Edward,  bnilder,  ditto 
Nicholson  T.  and  £.  merchants,  Wark« 

worth 
Nicholson,  — ,  farmer,  Berwick-hill 
Nicholson  John,  yeoman,  Cawsey-house 
Nixon,  Joseph,  gent.  Nevrcastle 
Nixon  John,  Westgate  Toll-house 
Nixon  John,  farmer.  Barlow 
Nixon  Geoi^,  farmer,  Howden,  d. 
Noad  W.  D.  gunsmith,  Morpeth 

NOBTHVMBBBLAND,    HiS  CjBACB  VHB 

DuKB  OF,  K.  G.  Alnwick  Castle 

(^en  Bernard,  esq.  Sunderland 
Ouver  Robert,  steward.  Shiner  Row 
Oliver  R.  draper.  Quayside,  Newcastle 
Ord  John,  esq.  Weetwood 
Ord  T.  paper-manufacturer,  Ewehurst 
Ord  John,  grocer,  Kirkwhdpington 
Ormston  Robert,  jun.  esq.  Newcastle 
Ormston  Miss,  ditto 
Orr  Jdm,  sui^eon,  Cambo 
Oswald  John,  worsted  manu&eturerj 
Newcastle 

Pape  Anthony,  Rjle  Mill 
Park  Joseph,  spirit-merchant,  Berwick 
Ptoker  S,  V.  esq.  Elswidc 
Parker  Josiah,  currier>  Hexham 
Parkes  Thomas,  agent,  London 
Parkin  Rev.  John,  Newcastle 
Parkin  Robert,  Lambton,  salt-works 
Patterson  Mich.  coIUery  agent.  Walker 
Patterson  John,  shoemaker,  Morpeth 
Pattinson  John,fiMrmer,  near  Haltwhistlo 
PattisoQ  Robert,  surgeo^^  Blyth 
Pattison  Johnson,  Berwick 
Pattison  Clem,  solidtor,  Berwick 
Peacock  Mrs.  innkeeper,  Morpeth 
Pearsey  John,  Castle  Inn,  Alnwick 
Pemberton  Richard,  esq.  Red  Bams 
Pentland  — ,  Morpeth  south  toll-gate 
Percy  Huffh,  Redpath,  Bath 
Peters  Wuliam,  esq,  Newcastle 
Philips  Alexander,  Berwick 
Philips  George,  Tjrle  Shade 
Philipspn  John,  Kirkwhdpington 
Pickering  €^eorge,  parish-clerk,  Earsdon 
Pickering  William,  butcher,  Kenton 
Plu^  M.  veterinary  surgeon,  Newcastle 
Plummer  John,  esq.  Preston 
Potter  William,  esq.  WaUbottle 


List  OF  SUBS6fttBEM 


IX 


Potts  ThbtiOM,  puUicaji>  Bt:  Mtlion's 
Potts  K&arj,  publican^  neaif  Hartley 
Pratt  Thomas,  buildet,  Sunderland 
Pratt  John^  boatman>  HaltwMsle 
Pringle  Edward,  esq.  Snitter 
Pringle  Edw.  sdxoounaster,  Newcastle 
Pringle  G^rge,  inilkeeper,  AlnMick 
Pringle  John,  jun.  Newcastle 
Procter  Vincent,  Cresswell 
Purvis  J.  baker,  Newcastle 
Purvis  Thomas,  Heathery-top 
Pybus  R.  porter  merchant,  Newcastle 
I^le  Edward,  agent,  Dunstan 

Rae  Thomas,  Pallinsbum 
Railston  William,  former,  Branxton 
Raine  Rev.  J.  Durham 
Rainsforth  Mary,  Comhill 
Ramsay  6.  H.  Ijerwent  Haugh 
Rand  James,  Lambton  Salt-works 
RatcUff  Thomas,  esq.  Campville 
Ratcliff  John,  butcher,  Newcastle 
Rawes  Rev.  W.  Hou^ton-le-Sprin^ 
Ray  William,  blacksmith,  Ponteland 
Readhead  William,  esq.  Rye-hill 
Reay  William,  esq.  Walker 
Reay  John,  colliery  agent,  WaUsend 
Redhead  John,  farmer,  Wallsend 
Redhead  John,  Howden  I'ans 
Reed  Alex,  china-merchant,  Newcastle 
Reed  Ra.  cab.-maker.  Hay  don-bridge 
Reid  Robert,  clerks  Berwent-haugh 
Reid  James,  wharfinger,  Newcastle 
Reid  Robert,  Stamfordham 
Reid  John,  bookseller,  Berwick 
Reid  Thomas,  pitman,  Earsdon-square 
Rewcastle  John,  Greenwich  Hosp.  office 
Richardson  A.  innkeeper,  Newcastle 
Richley  Edward,  shoemaker,  Corbridge 
Riddle  Edward,  royal  naval  asylum, 

Oreeawich 
Riddle,  And.  mason,  Longframlington 
Riddle  Waller,  Rothbury  Forest 
RiDhvr  Sir  M.  W.  bart.  M.  P.  Bkg- 

don. 
Ridley  John,  publican,  Newcastle. 
Ridley  William,  grocer,  Hexham 
Ridley  Henry,  cooper,  ditto 
Robertson  Xames,  bishopwearmouth 
Robinson  John,  engineer,  Greenside 
Robinson  Jas.  spirit-dealer,  Ouseburn 
Robinson  William,  clerk,  Newcastle 
Robinson  John,  brewer,  Sipiderland 
Robinson  D.  Edinburgh 
Robinson  G.  joiner,  ]V&rpeth 
Robson  Michael,  esq.  West  Chlrton 
Robson  John,  esq.  Felling  Hall,  n. 
Robson  Edward,  builder,  Newcastle 
Robson  John,  furrier,  Bedlington 
Robson  John,  wharfinger,  Newcastle 
Robson  Edward,  builder,  ditto 
Robson  Robert,  mason,  Corbridge 
Robson  Joseph,  watchmaker.  Hough- 

ton-le-spnng 
Robson  Robert,  butcher,  S^hill 
Robson  John,  £urmer.  New  Moor 


Robson  George  tax«6ffic^,  Newcastle 
Robson  Jona.  fouhder,  hear  Ghitediead 
Robson  John,  farmer,  Ih^ 
Robson  John,  joiner,  &avineton 
Robson  Jnhn,  High  Hewdrtn 
Robson  Thomas,  clerk,  Sunderland 
Robson  Wm.  MonkWearmouth.  poor- 
house 

Robson  Robt.  surgeon.  North  Shields 
Robson  William,  6teward«  Wbdlsington 
Robson  Gilbert,  gent.  Bedlington 
Robson  — ,  lOepttord  glass-wdtks,  Sun- 
derland 
Robson  John,  jGEirmer,  Pealy  Hill 
Robson  Robert,  surgeon.  North  Shields 
Rodiester  William,  Whaltoii  Mill 
Ro^  Patrick,  l&erwick 
Robns  George^  Berwick 
Ronaldson  Stephen,  miller,  Heaton 
Routledge,  -^,  surgeon.  Hay ddn -bridge 
RoweU  David,  surgeon,  Newbum 
Rowell  William,  farmer.  Hurst 
RoweU  John>  farmer,  Errington  Red- 
House 
Rowell  Robert,  currier,  Hexham. 
Rowley  Robt.  brush-manfac  Newcastle 
Ross.  James,  Norham 
Rule  Jose]^,  mason,  Wooler 
Russell  William,  esq.  M.  P.  Brans- 

peth  Castle 
Russell  Asn'es,  shopkeeper.  So.  Shields 
Russell  Alexander,  baker,  ditto 
Russell  Ann,  fruiterer,  Newcastle 
Rutherford  George,  fsEurmer^  Akeld 
Rutherford  William,  farmer,  Stanton 
Coal  House 

Salter  William,  paper  manufiEicturer, 

Felling  Shore 
Salvin  B.  J.  esq.  Burn  Hall 
Salvin  Anthony,  esq.  F.  S.  A.  Branspeth 
Sample  Wm.  joiner,  Belsay  Guide-post 
Sanderson  Wm.  Bdtl  Inn,  Belford 
Scaife  George,  agent,  Blyth 
Scarlett  George,  tailor,  IVewcastle 
Scott  John,  Solicitor,  Sunderland 
Scott  John,  shoemaker,  Belsay 
Scott  William,  horsebreaker,  Corbridge 
Scott  John,  saddler,  Hexham 
Scruton  R.  esq.  Durham 
Scurs  rev.  Thos.  Broadwood  Hall 
Selby  R.  esq.  London  and  Earle 
Selby  Charles,  Gosforth  '    . 

Selby  William,  staithman,  Wallsend 
Semple  William,  Coldstream 
Shanks  Robert,  gardener.  Amble 
Sharp  Joseph,  farmer,  Paxton  Dean 
Shields  Thos.  merchant,  Durham 
Shepherd  William,  Blyth  Dock 
Shipley  William,  agent,  Dilston 
Short  Leonard,  Doddin^n 
Short  Alexander,  BothsU  Pit 
Simpson  — ,  gent,  Allendale  Town  * 
Simpson  Georg«,  painter,  Corbridge 
Sinton  Wm.  hair-dresser,  Newcastle 
Sissons  William,  grocer^  LaiKshester 


Sitwell  liVands,  ek[.  ^armoor  castle 
Smith  Edw.  watchmaker,  Newcastle 
Smith  George,  esq.  L^ne-end. 
Smith  sir  D.  W.  bart.  Alnwick 
Smith  Aaron,  esq.  ditto 
Smith  Jol)p,  esq.  Beamish 
Smith  Captain,  Haughton  Castle 
Smith  rev.  H.  R.  S.  Embleton 
Smith  Isaac,  brewer,  Newcastle 
Smith  John,  keeper  of  St.  Nicholas' 

poor-house,  Newcastle,  2  copies 
'Smith  John,  farmer,  £ast  Cramlington 
Smith  William,  smith,  Blyth 
Smith  Benjamin,  gardener,  Bavington 
Smith  William,  Shedlaw 
Smith  Robert,  mariner,  Sunderland 
Smith  Edw.  schoolmaster,  Rothbury 
Smith  Adam,  farmer,  Bcrryhill 
Smith  John,  clerk,  Southwark 
Smith  John,  Norham  Main 
Snowball  John,  butcher,  Alnwick 
Softley  William,  Tyne  Glass-works 
Soinerville  Cuth.  teacher,  Matfen 
Southern  George,  viewer,  Longbenton 
Spearman  Robert,  Bothal  Mill 
Spoor  Robert,  grocer,  Newcastle 
Sppor  Jos.  shoemaker,  Seaton  Sluice 
Sprag^on  Ralph,  farmer,  Tliorneyfbrd 
Staintnorp,  Wm.  publician,  Hexham 
Stafford  John,  esq.  London 
Stanford  James,  Coldstream 
Steavenson  Robert,  M.  D.  and  F.  R.  C. 

Newcastle 
Steavenson  Thos.  A.  Berwick 
Steel  Warden,  Success-row,  co.  Durham 
Stephenson  Peter,  esq.  Hexham 
Stephenson  Mrs.  publican,  Newcastle 
Stephenson  G.  schoolmaster.  Holystone 
Stephenson  Robert,  farmer,  Colwell 
Stobbart  William,  esq.  Pelaw^ 
Stobart  M..  Allendale  To>vn 
Stobart  Thomas,  Heaton  Staith 
Stobbs  Robert,  printer,  Durham 
Stobbs  Henry,  rarmer,  Woodhorn 
Stokoe  Alexander,  esq.  Aycomb 
Stokoe  John,  architect,  Newcastle 
Stokoe  Mrs.  Ha^o,  near  Hexham 
Storey  James,  merchant,  Rothbury 
Story  Peter,,  hair-dresser,  Morpeth 
Story  William,  butcher,  Newcastle 
Story  Wm.  faxmer.  Beacon,  near  Cram« 

lington 
Storey  Joseph,  founder.  South  Shields 
Straker  John,  viewer,  Seaton  Cottage 
Straker  W.  T.  fanner.  North  Seaton 
Straker  -— ,  shipbuilder,  Jarrow  Lodge 
Strother  William,  esq.  Alemouth 
Stuart  Thomas,  viewer.  Regent  Pit 
Stuart  Robert,  schoolmaster,  Westmoor 
Surtees  Robert,  esq.  Mainsforth 
Surtees  Thos.  Old  Hall,  Cresswell 
Sutherland  Thos.  Billy  Pit 
Swallow  John,  Sparrow  House 
Swan  George,  farmer.  Whitridge 
Swan  Robert,  farmer,  Bedlington 
Sykes  John,  sttftioner>  Newcastle 


LIST  OF  SUBSCRIBERS. 


tatt  Robert,  innkeeper,  Belfard 
Tait  John,  Grunden 
TalUntyre  John,  shoemaker,  Newcastle 
Tate  lliomas,  collier,  Debdon  Cotta^ 
Tate  William,  butcher,  Wingates 
Tate  George,  Morpeth 
Taylor  Henry,  esq.  Christen  Bank 
Taylor  Hogh,  esq.  Earsdonft  Shilbottle 
Taylor  Wifiiam,  esq.  Heworth 
Taylor  Henry,  innkeeper,  Shilbottle 
Taylor  Gilbert,  publican,  Blyth 
Taylor,  Wm.  shoemaker,  Newcastle 
Taylor  Mat.  glassman,  Ousebnm,  ditto 
Tayhnr  William^  North  Seaton 
Taylor  John,  Ellington 
Taylor  MatUiew^  Whickham 
Temple  Wm.  linen-draper,  Newcastle 
Temple  Nath.  shopkeeper,  Blyth 
Tewart  John,  esq.  Glanton 
Thirlwell  Wm.  engineer,  Shilbottle 
Thirlwell  Thos.  jun.  Debdon  Colliery 
Thobnm  Jc^mes,  shipowner,  Blyth 
Thompson  Benj.  eso.  Aydon  Cottage 
Thompson  Jas.  esq.  iCirk  House,  Cnmb. 
Thompson  Benj.  baker,  Newcastle 
Thompson,  A.  meroliant,  Warkworth 
Thompson  James,  Alnwick 
Thompson  Jas.  engineman,  Newcastle 
Thompson  John,  innkeeper,  Morpeth 
Thompson  Thos.  organist,  Newcastle 
Thompson  Wm.  brewer,  Morpeth 
Thompson  Robert,  Morpeth 
Thompson  Henry,  Street  Houses 
Thompson  James,  hat-maker,  Wooler 
Thompson  John,  Newcastle 
Thompson  Greorgey  farmer,  Reavely 
Thompson  Qeo*  Ashinffton  Guide  Fost 
Thompson  Thos.  esq.  Bishopwearmouth 
Thorp  rev.  Charles,  Ryton 
Thurlow  rev.  Ed.  South,  Houghton-le« 

Spring 
Tjniey  John,  esq.  North  Shields 
Tinn  Joseph,  Bigge's  Main  colliery 
Todd  — ,  Low  Lambton 
Todd  John,  agent,  Manchester 
Todd  Henry,  I}u»ham 
Train  Thomas,  agent,  Gateshead 
Treasurer  William,  (h'aper,  Newcastle 
Trevelyan  Walter  Calverley,  esq.  Wil- 

lington 
TrevSiyan  Raleigh,  esq.  Netherwitton 

Trewitt  H.Jinnkeeper,Iionffframlington 
Trotter,  -^,  surgeon.  North  Shields 
Trotter  Geo.  schoolmaster,  Alnwick 
Trotter,  — ,  tanner,  Newcastle 
Trueman  Mrs.  High  Heaton 
Tulip  Henry,  esq.  Brunton. 
Tumbull  J.  Thomas,  gent.  Newcastle 
TumbuU  Mrs.  Bothal  Castle 
Tumbull  Jas.  flax-dresser,  Newcastle 
TumbuU  William,  Alnwick 
Tumbull  Joft.  gardener,  Southwlck 
Tumbull  Geo.  builder,  Sunderland 
Tumbull  Geo.  grocer,  Howden  Pans 
TumbuU  Robert,  gardener,  Kirkley 


Tumbull  — ,  baker,  ^orpeth 
Tumbull  William,  Comhill 
Tumbull  Geo.  smelter,  Langley  Milb 
Turner  Daniel,  steward,  Blagdon 
Tomer  Aaron,  Morpeth 
Turner  Joseph,  hat-maker,  Alnwick 
Twentyman  John,  esq.  Maryport 

Veatdi  H.  Chionide  Office,  Durham 

Verty  J.  farmer,  Fallowfidd 

Vick  Joseph,  London 

Virtue  G.  bookseller,  London,  3  copies 

Urwin  Wm.  schoolmaster,  Denton-burU 

Wailes  George,  fiirmer,  Newtmi  HaU 
Wailes  John,  founder,  Newcastle 
Wakefield  Thos.  flax-dresser,  Hexham 
Wakenshaw  Joseph,  shopman 
Wake,  Nic.  fisurmer,  Seaton  House 
Waldie  John,  watdimaker,  Blyth 
Walker  John,  esq.  BenweU 
Walker  John  rev.  GK)sforth 
Walker  W.  Percy  Brewery,  N.  Shields 
Walker  W.  founder,  ditto 

Walker  Henry>  Mitford 
Walker  W.  shipmaster,  N.  Shields 
Walton  Thos.  nrmer,  Weardale 
Walton  Thos*  cork-cutter,  Newcastle 
Wanless  John,  builder,  Newcastle 
Wanless  Thos.  teacher,  Warkworth 
Ward  John,  esq.  Lanchester 
Ward  William,' Durham 
Ward  B.  innkeeper,  Haydon-bridge 
Ward  Wm.  innkeeper.  North  Shields 
Wardle  Edw.  Rimside  Moor  House 
Waters  Cuth.  twine-maker,  Newcastle 
Watson  Edmund,  esq.  Coopen 
Watson  Wm.  esq.  North  Seaton 
Watson  John,  esq.  Willington 
Watson  James,  clerk*  Bunker  Hill 
Watson  Stephen,  farmer,  Ashington 
Watson  ]^enwick,forgeman.  Low  Team 
Watson  Edw.  brewer^  Monkseaton 
Watson  Geo.  bookseller,  Gateshead 
Watson  J.  cabinet-maker,  Newcastle 
Watson  John,  surgeon,  Burnup  Field 
Watson  J.  faiiner.  Cold  Park 
Watson  John,  farmer.  East  Sleekburll 
Watson  R.  fiurmer,  Colwell  Fell  House 
Watson  John,  farmer,  Rennington 
Watson  Wm.  tinsmith;  Wooler 
Watson  P.  farmer,  NeM^on  Low  Hall 
Watson  S.  O.  Corver,  Bigge's  Main 
Watts  Peter,  baker,  Fellon  Shore 
Watt  John,  Benwell  Colliery 
Wawn  Robt.  esq.  South  Shields 
Weatherley  Geo.  esq.  Tyiiemouth 
Weatheral  Thos.  watchmaker,  Hexham 
Weatherhead  Miss,  near  Cowpen 
Weddell  Stoddart,  plumber,  Alnwick 
Wear  Thos.  excise-office,  Weardale 
Weir  J.  excise-office,  Maryport 
Welch  Thomas,  smith,  Renton 
Weldon  — ,  near  Shotley  Bridge 
Welsh  John,  Swarland  Moor 
Wharton  Wm.  esq-  Drybum  Lodge 


Wheldon  TIms.  farmer,  Pelteii 
White  John,  keelman,  Oiisebum 
Whitfield  R«  W.  ironmonger,  Hexhani 
Wilkie  James,  surgeon,  Newcastle 
Wilkinsoii  T.  esq.  Belmont  Hall 
Wilkinson  Thos.  esq.  Durham  d. 
Wilkinson  — ,  esq.  Kyhope 
Wilkinson  John,  esq.  Alemouth 
Williams  Wm.  esq.  Durham 
Williams  Wm.  Blyth  Tyle  Sheds 
Williams  William,  gent.  Londim 
Williamson  Sir  H.  bart.  Whitbum-hall 
WUlis  Joseph,  esq.  Gateshead 
Wilcox  rev.  Peter,  Sunderland 
Wilson  — ,  esq.  Nent  Hall,  Cumberland 
Wilson,  Jacob,  esq.  Alston 
Wilson,  Geo.  shoemaker,  Bedlington 
Wilson  William,  solicitor,  Newcastle  . 
Wilson  Geo.  tolwcconist,  ditto 

Wilson  James,  derk,  ditto 

Wilson  Greorge,  butcher,  ditto 

Wilson  John,  Beiwick 
Wilson  Robt.  &rmer,  near  Bedlington 
Wilson  William,  teacher.  South  Smelds 
Wilson  William,  shoemaker,  ditto 
Wilson  Thomas,  joiner,  Hebron 
Wilson  Wm.  shipmaster.  South  Shields 
Wilson  — ,  currier,  Morpeth 
Wilthew  John,  cjerk,  Dunstan 
Winship  Lyal,  shoemaker,  Sandyford 
Wood  Eleanor,  innkeeper,  Grateshead 
Wood  Thomas,  butcher,  Gateshead 
Wood  Wm.  schoolmaster,  Newcastle 
Wood  John,  riewer.  Mount  Stables 
Wood  Wm.  farmer,  Craster  Redstead 
Woodhouse  Edward,  Scotchwood 
Woods  William,  esq.  Newcastle 
WooUett  Joseph,  gent.  Newcastle 
Wray  William,  fie^er,  Newbiffein 
Wrigglesworth  John,  farmer^  Shubottle 
Wright  John,  esq.  Wallsend 
Wright  James,  raff-merchant,  Blyth 
Wright  M.  shipmaster,Monkwearmouth 
Wright  J.  North  Shields 
Wright  Creorge,  comedian,  Alnwick 
Wright  — ,  brewer,  Alston 

Yellowley  Robert,  Berwick 
Yellowley  Robert,  Heaton  Flint  Mill 
Young  John,  joiner,  Blyth 
Young  John,  sawyer,  tiedlington 
Young  Thomas,  carrier,  Wower 
Young  Andrew,  brewer,  Alnwick 
Youiig  Thomas,  slater,  Alnwick 
Young  Noble,  glassman,  South  Shields 
Young  Mary,  innkeeper,  Coldstream 
Younger  Anth.  hair-dresser,  Hexham 
Younger  Wm.  innkeeper,  Tynemoufh 

NAMES  OMITTSn. 

Hailes  W.  A.  teacher,  Newcastle 
Henderson  Edward,  steward.  Felling 
Kay  John,  druggist,  Newcastle 
Milbum  -— ,  Gateshead  Toll  Bar 
Miller  Wm.  innkeeper,  Newcastle 
Patterson  Robert,  millwright,  ^tto 


1 


\ 


DESCRIPTION 


OF  THfi 


ABORKinfm  OTF  NOHTHUimsaiJkllD. 


p 


^  order  to  duddate  the  civil,  militaiy,  and  ecdesiastical,  history  of  Nor- 
thumberland, it  becomes  necessary  to  glance  at  the  most  important  aT- 
cumstances  recorded  of  the  aboriginal  Britons.  This  general  view  will 
indude  the  lineage  and  peculiarities  of  the  pristine  Nortnumbrians,  while 
a  relation  of  the  memorable  invasions  by  which  they  were  suocessivdy 
mingled  with  dissimilar  races  of  adventurers,  wiU  tend  to  iDustrate  tiie 
origm  of  the  manners,  tke  usages*  the  dialect,  and  the  antiquities,  wluch 
djatiimiish  this  interesting  district  This  historical  sketch  is  naturally  divided  into 
periocb  analogous  to  the  appearance  and  exploits  oi  eadi  successive  people.  The 
Ummm  period,  extending  from  Agricola's  arrival  in  Northumberknd  to  tro  final  alK 
dUci^n  of  the.  Roman  authority  fmma  the  first  division.  The  AngkhSoMm  period 
suoeeeds,  mmL  ^tends  from  the  aqMrture  ci  Hoe  Ramans  unto  the  extinction  of  tlie 
independfMee  of  tiie  Nordiumbefland  kingdom,  when  it  became  subvect  or  tributary 
to  Egbert)  tiie  king  of  Wesaex.  The  Ikmish  period  follows,  and  is  terminated  by 
tiie  iVoTHMRi  conquest.  'Diis  curious  and  intei^stmg  division  of  the  w»k  will  he 
dosed  by  a  rapid  view  of  the  dreumstanoes,  chaxacter,  and  punuits,  of  the  subsequent 
inhabitants  of  this  frontier  and  warlike  district,  and  will  form  an  instructive  introduc- 
tion to  the  history  of  its  antiquities,  natural  productions,  agriculture,  trade,  commerce, 
and  topography, 

VOL,  I.— (1.)  A  \ 


\ 


2  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

The  larae  and  beautiful  island  of  Great  Britain*,  it  is  ^nerally  allowed,  was  first 
discoverectby  the  Phoenicians  of  Cadiz;  but,  for  the  sake  of  traffic,  these  ancient 
navigators  carefully  concealed  their  course  from  others.  The  first  ray  of  light  which 
emerged  from  the  darkness  in  which  the  British  islands  were  long  involved,  proceeded 
from  a  poem  upon  the  Argonautic  expedition,  written  by  Onomaeritus,  in  the  charac- 
ter of  Orpheus.  During  the  ridiculous  adventures  of  his  hero,  this  poet  mentions 
lemi,  which  is  apparently  Ireland.  This  affords  a  strong  presimiption  that  the  Phoe- 
nician traders  had  resorted  to  these  remote  islands  for  a  considerable  time,  as  even  the 
Greeks  had  obtained  some  confused  idea  of  their  existence.  Herodotus,  whose  history 
obtained  the  Olympic  laurel  about  450  years  before  Christ,  candidly  acknowledges  his 
ignorance  of  the  western  boundary  of  Europe.  The  first  time  these  important  islands 
are  distinctly  named  is  in  the  book  "  De  Mundo^  usually  ascribed  to  Aristotle,  the 
preceptor  of  Alexander.  From  that  time  Britain  became  an  object  of  attention 
amongst  the  curious  Greeks,  and  was  shortly  after  discovered  by  Pytheus,  a  cele- 
bratea  navigator  belonging  to  the  Grecian  colonists  of  Marseilles.  Even  the  Romans, 
after  several  fruitless  attempts,  were  equally  successful.  By  these  successive  discove- 
ries, the  lucrative  trade  in  tin,  with  which  the  Cassiteriderf  abounded,  Was  thrown 
open  to  different  nations,  but  the  greater  part  was  at  length  monopolized  by  the  Gal- 
lic merchants.  Polybius,  who  livel  SOO  years  before  the  Christian  era,  collected  the 
scattered  notices  respecting  Britain,  but  unfortunately  for  our  curiosity,  this  treatise 
has  not  reached  us. 

*  The  various  names  which  have  been  aflbced  to  the  Britiah  ides,  havepuasled  the  etymological  antiquaries 
of  every  age,  Bochart  derives  Brelanike,  the  Greek  name  for  Britain,  from  the  Phoenician,  or  Hebrew  word 
Baratanac,  the  Land  of  Tm.  The  inventive  Fabcr  suggests,  diat  BrU^Tmi'Nu-AMa,  may  be  deduced  from 
Brtt^Tan-'Nui^  the  Fish^god  Noah !  Othav,  thinking  it  absurd  to  sedc  the  origin  of  this  name  in  a  foreign 
huiguage^  have  examined  the  speedi  of  the  ancient  Britons,  Borlase  imagines  that  the  word  Brjf.  or  BrUk, 
alludes  to  the  disjunction  of  this  country  firom  Gaul :  while  Whitaker  maintains  that  the  appellation  of  Britain 
refers  to  the  inhabitants  rather  than  to  the  r^on ;  and  that  the  radical  part  of  the  term  is  derived  from  a  Cel- 
tic word,  primarily  denoting  separation  and  division.  But  the  Wdsh  antiquaries,  Chalmers,  and  some  odiers, 
assure  us  that  the  ancient  Britons  always  denominated  their  native  land  Ymfs-Prydain,  which  signified  in  their 
descriptive  language  The  BeoMtifut  Island.  The  ingenious  antiquary,  Lluyd,  first  traced  this  celebrated  name 
to  the  Welsh  Ptydain,  signifying  fair ;  and  shewed  how  the  Cambio-Briton  Prydain  might,  'Vfjfihoat  any 
difiiculty,  be  changed  into  the  English  Britain,  or  the  Latin  Britannia. 

The  etymon  of  the  ancient  name  Albion,  applied  to  dioee  isles,  has  also  oocu^ed  the  attention  and  excited 
the  ingenuity  of  philologists.  Macpherson  supposed  this  original  name  to  have  been  iformed  from  the  Celtic 
Alby  or  Alp,  Mgh,  and  t»  a  country.  Whitaker  considers  it  to  be  merely  the  plural  form  of  Alb,  a  heights 
Carte  derives  it  from  the  Celtic  Alb,  white ;  supposing  the  country  to  have  been  thus  named  firom  the  appear- 
ance of  its  diJBb.  Chalmers  contends  that  Alban  was  the  most  ancient  name^  which  in  the  Cdtic  tongue  signified 
the  Ugh  region,  or  outer  region,  and  that  the  Greeks  perverted  the  ibst  appellation  to  Albion,  wfakh  was  sap- 
posed  to  signify  white.  The  name  of  AJhan,  he  observes,  was  long  retained  as  the  ancient  appeUation  of 
North  Britain.  Indeed,  the  Irish  people  have  continued  this  name  to  the  present  times.  Strangers,  it  has 
been  suggested,  first  called  this  island  Albion,  firom  a  view  of  its  heights,  but  afterwards  adopted  its  native 
designation,  Ynifs^Prydain. 

f  Cassiteros  is  the  Greek  word  for  tin,  from  which  these  islands  were  called  the  Cassiterides.  Some,  how- 
ever, have  conjectured  that  the  Cassiterides  of  the  ancients  were  in  the  Indian  Ocean  I 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  » 

The  «uly  liutory  of  Great  Britain*  is  eithar  buried  in  oblivioti,  or  Uended  with 
accounts  the  most  fabulous  and  extravagant.  So  far  as  deep  and  accurate  research 
can  discovar,  the  islands  of  Great  Britain  and  Irdand,  at  a  very  remote  periodf,  were 
gradually  colonized  by  the  Celts  from  the  nearest  coast  of  Gaul.  This  simjde  and 
rational  opinion  is  deduced  from  evidences  curious  in  themselves,  and  decisive  in  their 
inferences.  From  the  coast  of  Kent  to  the  extremity  of  Caithness  and  Ulster,  the 
memory  of  a  Celtic  origin  was  distinctly  preserved  in  the  perpetual  resemUance  of 
language,  religion,  and  of  manners. 

The  Celtasf  were  undoubtedly  the  aboriginal  people  of  western  Europe  throughout 
its  ample  extent ;  but  they  never  formed  any  vast  and  flourishing  empu'es,  being  dis- 
connected by  habit,  and  feeble  from  disunion.  On  some  occasions,  however,  the  su- 
perabundant population  joined  for  the  purpose  of  plunder  or  of  obtaining  new  setde* 
ments,  and  it  required  all  the  valour  and  skOl  of  the  Roman  armies  to  repress  their 
daring  invasions.  The  Goths,  who  inhabited  ancient  Thrace,  gradually  migrated 
westward,  and  settled  in  the  rugged  mountains  and  vast  woods  of  G^ermany  ;  and,'  at 
the  christian  era,  this  enterprizing  race  were  found  spread  in  small  settlements  along 
the  north-western  shores  of  Europe. 
.    At  some  period  preceding  the  arrival  of  Caesar,  the  Belgae^,  a  people  that  i 


*  Mr  Kirwin  conjectares  that  Great  Britain  was  separated  from  Germany  long  before  the  deluge,  but  that 
the  rupture  of  the  isthmus  that  joined  Calais  and  Dover,  was  effected  by  an  earthquake  at  a  later  period,  and 
gradually  widened  by  tides  and  currents.  The  separation  of  Ireland  from  Scotland,  he  imagines  to  be  late 
and  gradual,  and  that  from  England  diluvial  and  gradual*— >/mA  Trans,  vol,  6,  p.  301. 


t  Csesar  infbrms  us  that  the  inhnd  inhdbitantB  of  Britain  traced  their  descent  horn  Di$.  From  this  ihey 
meant  either  that  they  were  oceval  with  the  wovld,  and  sprung  out  of  the  ground  like  flowers  or  trees,  or  that 
they  were  the  imme^te  descendants  of  the  God  of  the  earth.— Cim.  de  BeL  Ub.  iv. 


X  Great  learning  and  industry  have  been  idly  employed  in  attempts  to  derive  every  people  fWrni  the  cold 
and  sterile  regions  of  Scandinavia,  that  '  state*house  of  nations.'  It  is  an  established  maxim,  that  the  pq>u« 
ktion  of  every  country  must  be  proporti<med  to  the  means  of  subsistence.  The  deserts  of  Scandinavia  could 
tlierefora  never  have  been  the  qffieina  geninm,  except  in  systems  of  theory ;  nor  were  the  Goths  indigenous 
of  Scandia.  The  European  Gottis,  or  Scythians,  were  seated  in  die  Euxine  b»  late  as  die  conquestt  of  Alex- 
andria. But  the  name  Scythei  has  created  much  confusion,  as  it  has  been  vaguely  applied  to  mixed  tribes  of 
barbarous  nations,  and  in  distant  countries.— Ptai^.lXMer/.  on  the  Seyihians  or  GoOu^  p.  l6S.  GA.  Dec&HCf  ifc, 
voLAh  p,  S55,    Arrian,  B.  I.  c.  S.     WUH/s  HiH.  Geog.  6  Map,  p.  109, 


§  Some  writers  have  contended  that  the  Belgae  were  Goths,  because  Caesar  says  they  used  a  different  tongue 
horn  the  other  Gauk,  and  were  chiefly  descended  from  the  Germans.  Those  who  think  the  British  Belgas 
were  of  Celtic  lineage  urge,  1,  that  from  the  intimations  of  Livy,  Strabo,  Pliny,  and  Lucan,  Caesar  meant 
dkUect  when  he  spoke  of  language.  2*  That  the  Cimbri,  or  Celtic  people,  inhabited  Germany  even  after  the 
Belgae  had  settled  in  Gaul.  3.  That  the  very  name  of  the  Belgae  was  derived  from  a  Celtic,  and  not  from  a 
Teutonic  origin ;  the  Celtic  root  Bel  signifying  tumult,  havoc,— -Be^,  an  overwhelming,— -Be^gfii^j,  the  nu 
vagers,  the  Belgae.  4w  That  the  names  of  the  Belgic  tribes,  their  rivers  and  towns  in  England  are  all  indis- 
putably  Celtic  5.  That  no  difference  has  been  noticed  between  the  polity,  religion,  manners,  and  usages  of 
the  Belgae  and  the  Gaelic  dans  that  were  the  aborigines  of  Britain. — Cass.  deBeL  Gal  I  5.  c.  2.  Tack.  Agric^ 
§  11.    WkUak.  Gen.  Hist.  p.  83—145.    Chalm.  Cakd.  voLlp.  16.    Owen's  Wdsh  Diet,  in  AH. 


4  DE8CRIFWON  OF  THS 


bited  ilutt  paH:  of  Gaul  opposite  to  Great  Britain,  patiaeA  over  to  En^bud^  drove  biick 
the  disunited  natives,  and  colonised  most  of  the  aea  ooast  from  Cape  Cornwall  to  the 
North  Fordond.  Tfaev  iqppear  to  have  been  superior  to  the  ancient  inhabitants  in  t^ 
srts  of  civilized  life.  They  lived  mudi  in  towns^  cultivated  agriculture,  were  dex<^ 
tfoos  in  medianical  operations^  and  active  in  commercial  pursuits.  As,  however,  we 
aie  not  informed  of  any  difference  between  the  political  constitution,  the  religious 
ceremonials,  and  prevailmg  laws  and  customs  of  die  nativeand  the  Belgic  Britons,  the 
following  observations  on  these  subjects  apply  to  them  collectively,  as  forming  the 
population  of  this  island  at  the  period  of  Camr's  invasion. 

The  ancient  Britons  were  remarkaUe  for  ikte  large  stature  of  their  bodies* ;  their 
eyes  Were  generally  blue,  which  was  esteemed  a  neat  beauty ;  and  then*  hair  red  or 
yeflow,  though  in  many  various  gradations.  Tttey  were  remarkablv  swift  of  foot» 
and  exceiied  in  running,  swimming,  wrestling,  climbing,  and  all  kinos  of  exercises  in 
Which  either  straigth  or  agility  were  requitedf .  Accustomed  to  hardships  and  despising 
eold  and  hunger,  in  retreating  ihey  plunfled  into  tiie  morasses  up  to  the  neck,  ^ere 
they  remained  several  days.  They  painted  their  bodies  with  a  blue  dye,  extiactoed  fran 
woad,  and  at  an  early  age  they  were  tattooed^  in  a  manner  the  most  ingenious  and 
hideous ;  and  in  order  to  exhibit  these  frightful  ornaments  in  the  eyes  of  their  ene* 
mies,  they  threw  off  their  doaths  in  the  day  of  battle j.  When  advancing  to  the  com- 
bat their  looks  were  fierce  and  appalling,  and  their  shouts  loud,  horrid,  and  frightful. 
Tliey  are  also  represented  as  an  acute  and  ingenious  people,  possessing  ve^  strong 
and  tenacious  memories,  and  imaginations  extremely  warm  and  lively,  lliey  are, 
however,  accused  of  being  proud,  fieiy,  ferocious,  and  fickle,  which  are  usually  the 
characteristicsof  uncivilized  people:  but  even  their  enemies  acknowledge,  that  they 
dis]^yed  the  most  invincible  counige||,  were  strangers  to  duplicity  and  nudignity  of 
spirit)  of  a  grateful  and  dodle  disposition,  and  ardmt  admirers  <^  Uberty, 

*  The  Britons  exceed  the  Gauls  in  stature,  of  which  I  had  ocular  demonstration,  £ot  I  saw  some  young 
BMteas  at  Rome  who  weie  iutf  a  loot  tdfer  than  the  tallast  1^  . 

.  f  If  we  fly,  (said  Beadicia  to  her  amy),  we  are  so  awift  of  fbot  that  the  Romans,  oaimot  overtake  uaj  if 
tbay  flyv  ihey  osaaet  eteape  our  pimutt  We  csn  pass  over  riven  by  swioHmi^  whiph  tfaey  can  hardly  pass 
ia  h0aUk^*M€ro4ituh  ^  iH*  ^  ^7* 

;(,  Tattooing  was  practised  by  the  Picts  as  late  as  the  fifth  centuiy,  Perlegit  essangues  Picto  morientt 
^guras.-— C/laii(l  cfe  Bel.  Get.  v,  l65, 

f  The  Highlanders  have  retained  this  practice,  in  part^  to  the  present  time.  As  late  as  the  battle  of  Killi. 
cranky,  they  threw  off  their  plaida  and  short  coats,  and  fought  in  thar  Btdrta.-^Whit,  HUtJ  qf  Manckesier, 

■     • 

ll  llie  foQowiog  description  of  intrepid  daring  in  an  ancient  British  chief,  whether  it  be  considered  as  an 
historical  picture,  or  as  the  elegant  fabrication  of  imposture,  is  finely  illustrative  of  the  movements  of  a  fear« 
less  i^irit :— -^^  My  tool  brightens  in  dimger,  I  am  of  the  race  of  steel ;  ,my  father  never  feared — ^Cormar  was 
the  first  of  my  race.  He  sported  through  the  storms  of  the  waves.  His  black  skiff  bounded  on  ocean, 
and  travelled  on  the  wings  of  the  blast.  A  spirit  once  embroiled  the  night  Seas  swell  and  rocks  resounds 
Winds  drive  along  tbedoudat    l*he  lightning  flies  on  wiaga  of  fire.    He  feared^  and  came  to  land ;  theu 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  5 

The  language  ci  the  Britons,  utilike  the  tasteless  and  barrto  Gkrthic  dialects,  was  mas- 
culine, copious,  and  poetical,  and  its  pronunciation  melodious  and  stuong.  The  signifi- 
cant  names  which  the  Gaelic  Celts*  imposed  on  all  the  prominent  objects  of  nature  at- 
test their  liveliness,  taste,  and  discHminationf . 

Contraty  to  the  general  practice  of  unpolished  nations,  the  Britons  were  truly  polite 
in  their  sentiments  and  behaviour  to  the  tender  seX.  The  beauties  and  virtues  of  the 
fair  were  the  favourite  thetnes  of  the  ancient  bards,  and  their  advice  was  regarded  as 
divine  oracles.  Thejr  were  peirmitted  to  enjoy  the  regal  dignity,  and«  their  greatest 
heroes  did  not  disdain  to  fight  under  their  command*  In  regard  to  chastity,  ^e  nor* 
tibem  Britons  are  represented  not  to  have  been  very  scrupulous  or  delicate.  It  is, 
however,  probable;,  that  the!  Romans  wer^e  deceived  by  appearances,  and  inferred  the 
promiscuous  intercourse  of  the  sexes  from  the  promiscuous  manner  in  which  they 
fived.  •*  The  houses  of  the  Britons,"  says  Henry,  "  were  not,  like  ours  at  present,  or 
those  of  the  Romans  in  those  times,  divided  into  several  distinct  apartments ;  but 
ccmsisted  of  one  large  circular  room,  or  hall,  wit][i  a  fire  in  the  middle,  around  which 
the  whole  family  and  visitants,  men,  wom>eli,  and  children,  slept  on  the  floor,  in  one 
continued  bed  of  straw  or  rushes."  The  ancient  Germans,  and  the  posterity  of  the 
Celtic  nations  in  Wales  and  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  who  long  continued  to  live  in 
the  same  promiseaous  and  crowded  manner,  were  remarkable  for  their  chastity  and 
conjugal  fidehty.  But  the  imiversal  imtegnation  of  the  Brigantes  against  their  queen^ 
CartismJEUidua,  for  her  breach  of  coi^ugld  duty,  is  decisive  on  this  pofait,  and  proves 
that  infidbDty  in  the  maoria^  oonti^cet  was  held  as  odious  among  the  ancient  Britons, 
befoTe  they  we*e  debaucheaby  the  seductions  of  the  Roman  manners^. 

The  ap^isffd  of  the  ancient  Britons  ws»  not  uniform  through  the  island.  Those  who 
inhabited  the  southern  provinces,  particularly  the  Belgic  colonists,  from  their  inter- 
course with  different  nations;  enjoyed  bletter  opportufhities  of  heing  instructed  in  the 
usefiil  arts  than  the  Britions  of  ouir  district.  The  moM  ancient  and  common  garment 
consi^lted'  of  the  skin  of  some  laroe  animal  cast  al)Out  the  shouMefs,  and  secured  to  the 
waiM  wkh  a  leathern  girdle,  This^,  mnong  the  higher  ranks,  was  succeeded  by  a  short 
mantle.  These  pksds  or  rugs  were  made  of  coarse  wool  unspun,  beat  and  dnven  to- 
gether with  mucn  labour.  A  sofber  and  lighter  kind  of  mantles  were  aftei^wan^  jmv. 
cBred  ftoBtk  the  Belgic  colonies.  They  were  woven  in  varioiis  colours,  and  resembled 
the  tarten  -pbaSe^  tmch  are  stsll  vtieA  in  tiie  Highlands  of  Scotland.    The  dress  ^  the 


bkdied  that  he  feared  at  alL  He  ruflEed  again  amcmg  the^aves  to  find  the  son  of  the  wind.  Three  youtha 
guided  the  botmding  bafk;  he  sfidod  with  ihk  bw&^  udAcnkhed.  When  the  low  hung  vapour  {lasaed  he 
took  it  by  the  curling  head,  and  seardied  its  dark  womb  With  hia  steel.  The  son  of  th^  t^fnd  forsook  the 
air:    Th€  moon-aUd  stiirs  retdmtf ."— Oivul9»^/Potfffi#,  voL  h  p*  S9, 


*  The  distifictiye  a|>pellatieD8  of  ancient  natSofn  may  be  tmfted  back  to  the  ^[ipfopriate  qualities  of  the 
country  they  inhabited.  The  moat  common  and  early  distinctions  of  regions  being  the  open  pknns,  and  the 
tooodlands  cftfiresU,  gave  rise  to  the  two  leading  appdlations  of  Gal,  (GodJ,  wA  of  Celi;  the  first  denoting 
the  Cfjpen  country,  and  the  second  the  covert— ^<9  Qnfen's  Diet*  in  vo. 


t  See^Shtw'aGadieDiCttdnary.  p  Tacit  Hist.  Ub.  iiL  c  45, 

VOL,  I,  iS 


6  DESCKlPTlOif  OP  THfi 

Druids  was  iii  some  respects  different  firom  that  of  the  other  inhabitants ;  but  nd  dis- 
tinction seems  to  have  been  made  in  the  dress  of  the  different  sexes.  The  most  ele^ 
gant  British  dress  that  we  read  of  is  that  of  the  famous  heroine  Boadioea.  **  She  was  a 
large  well-made  woman,  of  a  severe  countenance  ;  her  voice  was  loud  and  shrill ;  her 
hair  was  6f  a  deep  yellow  colour,  and  hung  down  to  the  bottom  of  her  waist ;  on  her 
neck  she  wore  a  massy  chain  of  gold ;  she  was  habited  in  a  tunic  of  various  colours, 
.  over  which  was  a  mantle  of  coarser  woollen,  bound  round  her  with  a  girdle  fastened 
with  buckles :  in  her  hand  she  rasped  a  spear*."  To  this  we  shall  only  add,  that  all 
the  Britons  were  extravagantly  fond  of  oitiaments,  and  proud  of  die  length  and  beauty 
of  their  hair,  which  they  dressied  and  adorned  with  the  greatest  pains ;  and,  in  order 
to  give  them  a  terrific  appearance,  the  hair  of  their  upper  lips  was  allowed  to  grow  to 
'  an  inconvenient  length. 

The  Britons  who  inhabited  this  northern  district  livied  chiefly  on  the  spontaneous 
productions  of  the  earth ;  on  milk,  and  the  flesh  of  their  flocks  and  herds,  and  of  such 
animals  as  they  caught  in  hunting.  Restrained  by  some  principle  of  superstition,  or 
by  their  ignorance  of  the  arts  of  catching  them,  they  made  no  use  of  that  great  variety 
and  almost  infinite  number  of  fishes  wiw  which  their  rivers,  lakes,  and  seas  abounded. 
Their  favourite  beverage  was  m^ul,  or  hon^  diluted  with  water  and  fermented, 
which  they  frequently  quafied  with  all  the  joy  of  rude  intemperance.  After  the 
practice  of  agriculture  commenced,  the  chief  curink  of  the  Britons  was  ale,  whidi  they 
made  from  barley,  and  sometimes  from  wheat.  On  these  occasions  they  sat  in  a  cir- 
cle, but  not  to  mix  promiscuously  without  distinctions  of  rank.  The  most  illustrious 
sat  in  the  middle,  the  bard  occupied  the  next  place  of  honour,  and  the  others  were 
placed  in  order ;  the  shield-bearer  stood  behind ;  the  spear-bearers  sat  against  them 
m  a  drde,  and  feasted  like  their  masters. 

The  Northumbrian  Britons,  though  considerably^  removed  beyond  the  gloom  of 
savage  life,  were  not  very  expert  in  the  art  of  civil  architecture.  We  may  readily 
suppose  tiiat  some  of  the  rudest  settlers  in  this  country,  in  the  earliest  stages  of  their 
residence,  dwelt  in  thickets,  dens,  and  caves,  secured  by  art,  and  whi<£  protected 
them  at  once  from  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather,  and  the  depredations  of  their 
enemies.  Even  at  the  era  of  Cassar's  invasion,  the  usual  habitations  of  tlie  more  ci- 
vilized Britons  of  the  south  were  very  slight,  and  consisted  <xily  of  a  few  stakes  driven 
into  tiie  ground,  interwoven  with  wattles,  and  daubed  with  cmy,  or  covered  with  the 
boughs  of  trees.  Those  houses  were  circular,  with  lofty  tapering  roofs,  at  the  top  or 
centre  of  which  was  an  aperture  for  the  admission  of  light,  and  emission  of  smoke. 
Habitations  of  this  form  continued  in  the  HigUands  of  Scotland  till  within  a  few 
centuries.  Being  constantly  in  a  state  of  warfare,  those  erections  were  frequentiy 
crowded  round  the  hut  of  their  chief,  and  defended  by  a  ditch  and  vallum  of  earth, 
or  else  a  rude  wall  of  great  loose  stones,  without  either  mortar  or  cement,  while  the 
entrances  were  barricadoed  by  trees  felled  and  thrown  together  in  the  most  intricate 
and  ingenious  manner.  Such  erections  were  gaierally  built  in  vallies,  upon  the 
margin  of  a  stream  or  river,  for  the  convenience  of  water,  and  security  from  wind ; 


*  A  curkms  and  lively  ddineMion  of  the  cortume  of  our  Brituh  ancestors,  founded  an  credible  hints  of 
intelligent^  and  pvobable  coojectore,  is  given  in  Mr  Whitakef^s  History  of  Manchester,  vbL  1^  p.  500. 


ABORIGINES  OF  NOR^ttlTMBfiRLAND.  7 

biit  sometimes  they  were  erected  on  the  brow  of  a  lofty  promontary,  difficult  of  access, 
and  skilfuUy  fortified.  Such  were  the  cities  of  the  andent  BHtons.  As  the  Romans, 
in  order  to  overawe  the  natives,  fixed  their  camps  on  the  sdte  of  the  native  towns,  or 
adjoining  them,  the  Roman  stations  may  geherally  be  considered  as  indicative  of  some 
prior  settlement  of  the  Britons* 

The  fatal  but  necessary  skill  which  the  British  tribes  had  acquired  in  those  almost 
incessant  wars  which  they  had  long  waged  against  one  another,  enabled  them,  espe- 
cially those  who  inhabited  these  northern  dis&icts,  to  make  a  long  and  glorious  strug- 
gle, even  against  the  Romans,  so  famed  for  their  proficiency  in  the  <&eadful  arts  of 
destruction.  The  ancient  Britons,  in  their  youth,  were  carefully  trained  to  the  use 
of  arms,  nay,  their  very  diversions  and  amusements  were  of  a  martial  and  manly  cast, 
and  contributed  greatly  to  increase  their  agility,  strength,  and  courage,  which  were 
cpnsidered  as  the  chief  accomplishments  of  a  warrior.  The  infantry  constituted  the 
chief  strength  of  tiie  British  armies.  Their  offensive  weapons  were  swords  of  copper 
or  brass,  long,  broad,  and  without  points,  which  were  attached  to  the  right  side,  and 
suspended  from  a  belt  or  chain  thrown  over  the  •  left  shoulder.  Round  tne  body  was 
a  gu*dle  sustaining  a  short  dirk  also  of  copper  or  brass.  The  battie-axe  was  likewise 
a  formidable  weapon  in  their  hands.  They  were  very  dexterous  in  the  use  of  short 
spears,  which  were  pointed  with  brass,  and  had  a  pendulous  bell  of  the  like  metal 
adjoining  to  the  socket,  which,  being  shook  as  they  advanced,  gave  a  harsh  and  dis- 
mal clangour,  whereby  the  hoitses  of  an  enemy  were  frightened  and  thrown  into 
disorder! . 

The  cavalry  consisted  of  small,  hardy,  spirited,  and  wett  trained  horses :  the  horse- 
men were  armed  for /fighting  on  foot,  and  were  frequentiy  accompanied  by  an  equal 
number  of  the  swiftest  footmen,  each  footman  holding  by  a  horse's  mane,  and  keep- 
ing pace  witii  all  the  motions  of  cavalry.  This  corps,  from  the  skill  and  rapidity  of 
their  manoravres,  were  of  infinite  servicet- 

The  war  chariots  were  of  different  kinds.  Th^  Covinus  was  armed  with  sharp 
hooka,  and  contained  only  the  diarioteer,  all  its  execution  depending  on  the  force  and 
rapidity  with  which  it  was  driven  through  the  enemy's  ranks.  The  Rheda  and  Esse- 
dum  were  larger  and  stronger,  and  contained  a  few  light-armed  troops,  who  being 
expert  in  throwing  the  javelin  on  passing  the  enemy  with  speed,  wowd  make  great 
slaughter.  The  singular  and  imposing  appearance  of  their  numerous  war-chariots, 
drivai  with  sudi  incredible  rapidity  and  dexterity,  disconcerted  even  the  Roman 


*  Ceenr  de  BeL  Gal.  lib.  v.  ch.  7-  Diod.  Sic.  lib.  v.  s.  8.  Borkse's  Antiq.  Corn.  p.  299.  Whitaker'a  Hist 
of  Manchester. 

t  Before  the  useof  inetalsbecnnegeBenliiitiieaniieriesoftheBrifeoiis,  tbeir  hatchets  were  made  of  flint 
Th^arefireqnenUyloimd  in  the  graves  of  waniors,  and  are  called  oeftr,  from  die  British  word  cd^lt^  signiiy« 
xng  a  flint  stone.  Arrow-heads  of  flint  have  also  been  found  in  vaxioiis  parts  of  the  kingdom,  whidi  are 
superstitioiuly  called  e^^^^kci,  from  a  soppodtion  that  they  are  shot  by  dfr  or  fiuries  at  cattle.— OireiiV  Did. 
Stukdetfs  lUn.  p.  54f.    Hutch.  Cumb.  p.  18.    Pennanfs  Tour  m  Scot.  c.  1.  p.  101« 

X  This  mode  of  fighting  continued  so  long  among  the  descendants  of  the  Celtic  race,  that  it  was  practised 
by  the  Highlanders  in  the  Scots  army  during  the  aevcateendi  ceDtory^p^iSee  Memoirs  of  a  Cavalier,  p.  140. 


&  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

veterans^  amd  Caesar  confesses  that  their  attack  was  highly  formidabfe.  This  skiMuI 
wa,rriQr  ^^c^ibes  the  Britons  i^  being  so  exf^  m  the  npwMgem^it  of  their  chariots* 
that  they  would  stop  or  turn  them  at  fuU  sfieed  <m  the  dedivity  of  a  hUl, — sit,  stand* 
or  run  upo^  the  beam  or  yoke  of  their  h<orse».  and  in  one  in&tant  leap  in  or  out  as 
occasion  required. 

Th<e  Britons  fought  in  distinct  hands  or  c]9m%  ea^  oomnuufided  by  its  proper  chief- 
t^^y  whiclfi  dispositioi^  secmred  theup  attdchji9a^mt»  %Dd  animated  their  ardour.  The 
several  clajos  which  compos^  one  state  we«e  emnmand^  in  chief  by  their  sovereign ; 
and  when  several  stjates  made  war  in  con^ui^c^icm,  the  kiiigy  mort  eminent  for  power 
or  talents,  was  chosen  generalissinifO  of  the  combined  anny.  Their  order  of  battle 
was  generally  with  the  war-chariots  ijii  fjpcMftt ;  th^  centre  ecmsisted  of  the  several 
cLw&  on  j^Qot,  judiciously  disposed^  each  m  the-  shayte*  of  a  wed|^;  and  their  flanks 
were  composed  of  cavalry  and  light  ai^igted  troqw.  The  waggom,  with  their  wives 
axid  children,  wer^  placed  in  the  rear,  whi^  served  both  to  inftime  their  oounge 
and  to.  str^igthen  their  position.  Their  favourite  disposition  was  on  the  ascent  of  a 
hill«  where  me  corps,  of  reserve  might  be  sewb  by  the  en^ny,  and  pxesenA  tK>  tbem  a 
more  fc»iiudable  appearance.  The  Miset  was  with  hideous  howUngs  aod  ootery^ 
mixed  with  the  clangour  of  beating  tiieir  weapons  on  tlw  shield,  and  shakiaig  duir 
bell-spears.  Accustomed  to  £reqpenl  war£u!e,  amidsi:  woodlands  and  morasses,  wid>. 
rival  and  contiguous  tribes^  th^  British.  lead^»  evinced,  a  eonsummate  skill  in  t^  arta 
of  stratagem  and  surprize.  Thra?  tacstica per^exed^if  it  did noii baffle,  the iUnatviiaia 
CsBsar,  one  of  the  most  accomplished  generals  of  Rome. 

From  the  nu>st  ancient  times  the  I%cenicians>  and  afterwae^  the  Greeks^  salii  to 
tbe  Britons^  salt,  eai4>henwane>  and  brass.  trinJc^ts^.  and  seeeived  in  exdumge  tin;  leackir 
a^d  the  skinsof  beasts.  Possessing  good  veads^  it  is  probable  that  even  thia  remote  disi« 
trict  had  a  share  iHithis  traflSc;  but,  wh^a  the  ^Iftomans  had  penetrated  into  tibe  noiilihenii 
parts,  the  numerous  garrisons  which  were  left  in-  NartbumfaerUaid  to*  scenm  obediU 
^ce  and  promote  civilization,  must  haye  nendeped'  it  the  eentre  of  a  brisk  trade* 
Gold,  sjilv^»  lead)  iron>.com«  caittle,  ida¥es,  dogs^.  pearis,  diaik,  and  baskets  g£  wicfcBr^ 
were  all  in  g^eat  request  aftea:-  the  caning  of  the  Romans,  who  bought  in;  ratum  nn*^ 
thing  but  articles  of  luxury  and  magnificence.  Wemy  of  their  artndea  of  traffic  wem 
proiwced  in  this  county.  The  veins  of  our  lead«ore  are  botii  numexoua  and  rich,  and 
must,  have  ]m)duced  mreat  q^antities  of  silver*.  Iix^n  must  hanre  been  wrought  here, 
a,s  is^ testified  by  an* altar  discovered  at  BenweU.  Ca/ttie,  it  is  ocmeeived;  a6owided'in< 
our  vallies  and  forests^  and  their  hides  must  have  formed  a  considerable  article  of 
commerce.  Curious  and  beautiful  stones  are  found*  in  various  parts  o£  tiiis  distriet^ 
Slaves  seem  to  have  been  a  valuable  article  of  exportation,  ana  were  probably  the 
captives  of  the  neighbouring  tribes  taken  in  war,  or  criminals  condemned  to  slavery 
for  th^ir  crimes.  Iwitishihcme^  weie  mueh  admhred  hy  the  Romana^  and  great  num-- 
beffi^.w^w  exported*  Doga  also  fonnedno  inconridwabk  artide  in  the  experts  of  this" 
period :  some  of  them  weiie  very,  laige,  strong,  and  fiepce;  and  were  used  by  the  Gauls, 
and  some  othei)  nations^  in<  war ;  others- wese  the  same*  Idnd  a»  our  present  mastiffb  or 
buU-dogs,  and  were  purdiaaed  by  the  Romans^for  baiting  bulls  in  nie  amphitheatres; 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  '     9 

but  the  most  valued  kind  were  designed  for  huntings  and  were  imequalled,  both  in 
swiftness  and  the  exquisiteness  of  their  scent.  They  must  h^ve  been  niunerous  aihong 
the  hunting  and  pastoral  people  of  this  country*. 

From  th^  testinlony  of  Caesar,  it  appears  that  the  Britons  in  his  time  had  a  circu- 
lating monied  medium  of  trai&c,  though  his  words  admit  of  a  doubt  as  to  whether 
their  brass  money  was  minted,  or  mere  bullion  valued  by  the  weight.  Plot  and  Bor- 
lase  argue,  that  the  Britons  possessed  coins  1)efore  the  Ron^an  invasion.  However,  it 
is  certain  that  British  coins  were  struck  during  the  years  intervening  between  the  first 
invasion  undar  Cassar,  and  the  second  by  direction  of  Claudius.  The  genuine  coins  of 
the  Britons  are  usually  of  gold,  silver,  and  brassf .  Those  that .  are  merely  stamped 
with  the  figures  of  animals,  with  unintelligible  devices,  were  probably  of  tne  earhest 
Celtic  mintage.  Perforated  iron  plates  have  been  discovered  in  Cornwall,  and  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  iron  money  used  before  the  art  of  coining  was  introduced.  A  hole 
in  the  centre  was  for  the  purpose  of  stringing  them,  for  the  convenience  of  the  trader. 

The  first  vessels  used  by  the  ancient  Britons  consisted  of  canoes,  which  were  formed 
out  of  a  single  tree  hollowed  with  fiire,  in  the  manner  of  the  North  Aruerican  Indians. 
Canoes  of  this  description  have  been  discovered  in  lakes  and  in  marshes  both  in  Eng« 
land  and  in  Scotland.  A  large  vessel  of  this  kind  was  found  in  1726,  near  the  influx 
of  the  Carron  into  the  Forth.  It  was  thirty-six  feet  Ions,  four  feet  broad  in  the  mid- 
dle, four  feet  foiur  inches  deep,  four  inches  thick  in  the  sides,  all  of  one  piece  of 
solid  oak,  sharp  at  the  stem,  and  square  at  the  stem.  It  was  finely  polished  both 
inside  and  outside ;  the  wood  was  of  an  extraordinary  hardness,  and  not  one  knot  in 
the  whole.  This  curious  piece  of  antiquity  was  found  fifteen  feet  under  the  ground : 
a  part  of  it  was  first  perceived  by  the  river  washing  away  the  bank.  These  canoes 
were  succeeded  by  the  Currachs,  which  were  accommodated  with  keels  and  masts  of 
the  lightest  wood,  the  aides  were  made  of  osiers  closely  interwoven,  and  covered  with 
leather.  In  these  slender  boats  the  adventurous  natives  launched  into  the  perilous 
oceani,  and  even  crossed  the  narrow  seas  to  Gaul  and  Ireland.  Boats  of  a  similar 
construction  aire  still  used  on  the  rivers  of  Wales|.    But  it  is  probable  that  the  Britons 

*  These  celebrated  dogs  are  thus  described  in  a  passage  of  Oppian,  translated  oat  of  the  Greek  into  Latin 
by  Bodlnus :— 

Est  etiam  catuli  spedes  indagine  dara.  There  is  a  kind  of  dogs  of  mighty  fame 

Corpus  buic  brave^  mi|gnifioo  aed  corpore  digna;  For  huntings  worthy  of  a  flurer  name : 

Picta  firitannarum  gens  illos  effera  bello  By  painted  Britons  brave  in  war  they're  bredj 

Nutrit^  Agasaeosque  vocat  vilissima  forma  Are  beagles  called^  and  to  the  chase  are  led  j 

Corporis^  ut  credas  parasitos  esse  latrantes«  Their  bodies  small^  and  of  so  mean  a  shapes 

You'd  think  them  curs,  that  under  tables  gape. 

'f  Prints  of  at  least  40  specimens  of  British  coins  may  be  seen  in  Speed's  Historic,  Camden's  Britannia,  Pcgge's 
Coins  of  Cunobelin,  and  Whitaker's  History  of  Mandietter,  Ac.  Mr  Whitaker  says,  the  word  Tate  occinu 
ring,  with  some  variations,  on  many  of  those  coins,  signifies  leader  or'  king,  as,  indeed,  th^  yariatioiis  of  the 
word  do  in  th^  Gaelic  language  to  this  day, 

X  Beauties  of  Wales,  vol.  xvii  p.  8,  ^c. 
VOL,  I,  C 


10  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

had  vessels  of  a  larger  size,  better  constructed,  and  of  more  solid  materials ;  for  when 
the  Veneti,  who  inhabited  Brittany,  were  preparing  to  fight  a  decisive  battle  against 
the  Romans  by  sea,  they  obtained  auxiliaries  from  Britain,  and  the  combined  fleet 
consisted  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  ships.  These  war-vessels  were  entirely  built  of 
oak,  strongly  bolted,  and  their  seams  caulked  with  sea-weed.  They  were  so  sub- 
stantially built,  that  their  sides  were  impenetrable  by  the  rostra,  of  beaks  of  the 
Roman  gallies.  They  were  calculated  to  take  the  ground,  were  high  fore  and  aft, 
and  were  excellent  sea^-boats.  Their  sails  were  made  of  leather,  and  the  shores  being 
rocky,  their  seamen  used  iron  chains  instead  of  cables.  They  excelled  the  Romans  in 
manoeuvring,  and  despised  the  fresh- water  sailors*  expedient  of  oars.  Such  were  the 
first  vessels  of  which  we  have  any  knowledge,  built  and  navigated  by  the  hardy  sons 
of  the  north.* 

Great  Britairi,  at  the  era  of  the  Roman  invasion,  was  divided  into  thirty-eight  dis- 
tinct kingdomsf .  These  ancient  kingdoms  consisted  of  two,  three,  four,  or  more 
tribes  or  clanships,  under  one  king,  who  was  commonly  the  head  of  the  principal 
dan  of  which  the  state  was  composed ;  while  each  chief  of  the  other  tribes  still  retained 
a  great  degree  of  authority  in  his  own  state.  Different  states  enjoyed  different  degrees 
of  political  freedom.  Dio  Cassius  attributes  the  success  of  the  Romans  to  the  enslaved 
state  of  the  British  people ;  but  this  can  only  refer  to  the  southern  states,  which  the 
Romans  subdued  with  ease ;  for  Dio  Nicoeus  expressly  says,  that  in  the  northern 
nations  the  people  had  a  great  share  in  the  supreme  power. 

The  prerogative  of  the  ancient  British  kings  was  not  unlimited,  but  rather  circum- 
scribed within  very  narrow  bounds.  The  chief  duties  of  the  state,  including  the  pri- 
vileges  of  forming  and  administering  laws,  were  vested  in  the  priests.  Indeed,  reli- 
gion constituted  the  basis  of  the  ancient  political  system  of  the  Britons,  was  a  prin- 
cipal mover  in  all  their  transactions,  ana  regulated  all  the  afiairs  of  social  life.  The 
iimuence  of  their  theology  survived  aU  the  arts  and  efforts  of  the  Romans  for  its 
extinction ;  it  modified  and  encumbered  the  simple  rites  of  the  gospel,  and  is  still  dis- 
coverable in  the  opinions  and  customs  of  the  vulgar  in  Northumberland,  as  well  as  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  other  parts  of  the  island.  We  shall  therefore  proceed  to  offer 
a  brief  sketch  of  the  constitution  and  doctrines  of  the  Druidic  ord». 

The  origin  of  the  celebrated  order  of  Druids  has  been  a  fertile  subject  of  fanciful 
conjecture^.     Some  believe  that  the  Druids  in  early  ages  accompanied  the  Celts  from 

*  Caes.  de  BeL  Gal.  lib.  i.  c.  12.  &  lib.  3.  Strabo,  lib.  4,  p.  29.  Pennant's  Tour,  vol.  3.  p.  93, .  Hutch. 
Hist  of  Cumb.  vol.  i.  p.  IS.    CompbeH's  Lives  of  the  Admirals^  vol.  i.  p.  7* 

t  Dr  Henry  conjectures^  that  the  thirty-eight  British  nations  at  the  first  Roman  invasion  might  embrace  a 
population  of  760,000  persons^  allowing  20,000  to  each  number.  Mr  Anderson^  in  his  History  of  Commerce, 
makes  the  number  only  360,000.  But  even  the  highest  of  these  calculations  will  certainly  appear  much  too  low, 
when  we  consider  the  advances  die  Britons  had  made  in  civillsatioa ;  liie  fruitAilness  of  their  country ;  and 
the  strong  expressions  used  by  Cassar  and  Tacitus,  when  describing  the  extent  of  the  population  in  Britain. 

X  The  adepts  in  etymology  have  differed  greatly  in  tracing  the  derivation  of  the  word  Druid.  Some  de« 
dube  it  from  the  old  British  word  dru  or  derw,  an  oak.  Others  fr<Mn  the  Celtic  Demnfz,  meaning  one  who 
has  knowledge,  Stc,  Druid.  Others,  with  less  probability,  have  derived  this  name  from  the  Teutonic  word 
Dnithitt,  a  servant  of  truth ;  or  from  the  Saxon  word  Dry,  a  magician. 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  11 

the  edst ;  others  that  the  doctrines  of  Druidism  were  introduced  into  England  by  the 
PhcBnician  traders.  It  is,  however,  highly  probable,  that  the  order  of  priests  in  Bri- 
tain, as  in  aU  other  ancient  nations,  rose  out  of  a  timorous  and  abject  superstition. 
But  the  priests  of  Britain  excelled  those  of  the  neighbouring  nations,  mid,  at  a  very 
remote  period,  dieted  and  promulgated  that  remarkable  and  awful  system  of  reU* 
gion,  termed  JDrmdism. 

The  Druids  were  divided  into  three  different  classes,  the  Bards,  the  Faids,  and 
Druids,  which  last  name  was  frequently  given  to  the  whole  order,  though  it  was  some* 
times  appropriated  to  a  particular  class. 

The  Bards  were  the  heroic,  historical,  and  genealo^cal  poets  of  Britain.  They  did 
not  belong  to  the  priestly  order,  nor  were  they^  appointed  to  officiate  in  religious  rites. 
This  class  survivea  the  Koman  sword,  and  their  pagan  rites  and  a  regular  succession 
is  declared  to  have  continued,  though  with  many  vicissitudes  of  niunber  and  popula- 
rity, from  the  age  of  Cassar  to  the  present  day*. 

The  Faids  were  highly  venerated ;  they  were  the  sacred  musicians,  the  religious 
poets,  and  divine  prophets  of  all  the  Celtic  nations.  They  composed  hymns  in  honour 
of  thdr  gods,  which  they  sung  to  the  music  of  their  harps,  at  the  sacred  solemnities. 
Macpherson  asserts,  that  some  families  still  bear  their  name,  both  m  Ireland  and  the 
Highlands  of  Scotland,  and  are  probably  descended  from  some  of  these  once  celebrated 
Faids. 

The  Druids,  properly  so  called,  who  composed  the  third  class,  w^e  most  numerous, 
and  were  variously  distinguished  by  their  ranks  and  dignity,  the  whole  order  being 
subject  to  one  head,  or  Arch-Druid,  who  generally  resided  in  the  Isle  of  Anglesey. 
They  appear  to  have  lived  in  firatemities,  like  the  churchmen  of  succeeding  ages. 
There  were  also  Druidesses,  who  assisted  in  the  offices,  and  shared  in  the  honours  and 
emoluments  of  the  priesthood.  They  were  divided  into  three  ranks  or  classes.  The 
first  class  vowed  perpetual  virginity,  and  lived  in  sisterhood,  sequestered  from  the 
World.  The  second  class  consisted  of  married  devotees,  who  lived  with  the  Druids, 
and  conversed  only  occasionally  with  their  husbands.  Those  of  the  third  class  per- ' 
formed  the  most  servUe  offices  about  the  temples,  the  sacrifices,  and  the  persons  of  the 
Druidsf. 

The  Druids  appear  to  have  been  dispersed  throughout  every  comer  of  the  island, 
and  as  no  sacred  nte  could  be  performed  without  the  assistance  of  a  Druid,  their  num^ 

^  From  iiSSl  a  remnant  of  the  Bards  has  existed,  litde  known  but  occasionally  holding  a  eongiesa  for  GUu 
morgan,  the  only  provincial  chair  extant.  About  thirty  years  ago  Mr  E.  Jones,  author  of  the  "  Aneient 
Relics,"  revived  the  custom  of  the  congress  at  Corwen,  in  Merionethdure;  since  that  time  it  has  been  hdd 
yearly  In  many  towns  in  North  Wales.  In  1792>  a  supreme  congress  was  held  at  Primrose  Hill.  Mr.  W. 
Owen,  and  Mr.  £•  Williams,  who  have  attained  great  ability  in  Cimbrie  erudition,  attended,  and  were  assisted 
by  Mr.  £.  Jones,  and  Mr.  Samwell,  whose  poetical  versions  of  the  Welsh  muses  have  much  merit  But  me 
of  the  regular  Bards  declares,  that  they  know  nothing  at  all  of  the  aneient  and  genuine  baidim^— ^<ee  Owen'^ 
Es9ay,  p.  62,  Ancient  ReUcs,  p.  60.  WiUiams'  Poems,  vol.  S.  p.  l6l.  See  also  Owens  TransbOions  of  the 
Ehgies  of  Sfywarch  Hen. 

f  Caesar  de  BeL  lib.  i.  c  IS.  Strab.  lib.  iv.  Clem.  Alex.  Strom,  p.  304.  Bumef s  Archeolcg:  PhiloB.  p.  11. 
Rowland's  Mona.  Antiq.  p.  8S.  ' 


/. 


12  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

ber  must  have  befeti  very  oonsiderBble.  They  we»  clothed  in  white,  for  which  colour 
they,  in  common  with  most  of  the  andents,  had  a  high  veneration*.  Their  head  was 
aidoined  with  a  dildem,  or  tiara,  and  they  had  the  privilege  of  wearing  six  colours  in 
their  robes  as  a  badge  of  honour.  The  class  of  nobility  wore  only  five,  and  the  royal 
family  seven.  Then*  shoes  were  of  a  singular  shape,  made  of  wood,  of  a  pentagonal 
form.  The  insignia  of  their  order  was  the  figure  of  the  serpent's  egg.  The  crescent 
was  also  figuned  on  their  garments.  The  aged  Druids  had  very  long  beards,  and  some- 
times a  wreath  of  oak  round  their  temples.  Their  garments  were  long  and  flowing, 
and  generally  their  eyes  were  pensively  fixed  on  the  ground.  Their  manner  was 
solemn  and  dignified,  and  in  tilieir  hand  they  carried  the  magic  rod. 

The  Druids  were  the  first  and  most  distinguished  order  among  the  ancient  Britons. 
Besides  being  the  repositories  of  knowledge,  they  had  die  administration  of  all  saa^ 
things.  The  laws  were  considered,  not  as  the  decrees  of  their  princes,  but  as  the  com* 
mands  of  their  gods,  which  the  priestly  order  alone  oould  dedare  and  explain.  The 
violations  of  the  laws  were  viewra  as  sins  against  heaven,  consequently  the  Druids,  as 
Hie  ministers  of  heaven,  assumed  the  right  of  taking  vengeance.  All  these  important 
prerogatives  of  declaring,  explaining,  and  executing  the  laws,  the  Druids  enjoyed  and 
exercised  in  their  fuU  extent.  They  assumed  the  right  to  pronounce  the  sentence  of 
excommumcation,  or  interdict  aD  persons,  or  whole  tribes,  when  they  refused  to  sub- 
mit  to  their  decrees.  Possessed  of  this  terrible  engine  of  power,  they  experienoed  an 
unlimited  degree  of  authority.  They  constantly  attended  the  armies,  and  the  princes 
could  not  give  battle  till  the  priests  had  performed  their  auguries,  and  declared  that 
they  were  Svourable. 

We  may  reasonably  imagine  that  the  Dndds  derived  a  oon^derable  revenue  from 
the  exercise  of  their  prerogatives.  Bendes  the  rents  of  the  holy  temtories,  the  de- 
vote ^oils  of  war,  and  occasional  gifts  and  rewards,  we  are  also  traditionally  inf arm- 
ed, that  th^re  were  certain  dues,  'or  tythes,  exacted  from  every  family  by  the  priests 
of  their  district.  These  artful  priests  had  invented  a  most  effectual  method  to  secure 
4he  nunctiial  payment  of  this  tax.  All  families  were  obliged,  under  the  dreadful 
'penalties  of  excommunication,  to  extinguish  their  fires  on  the  last  evernng  of  October, 
and  to  attend  at  the  temple  of  their  mstrict  with  their  annual  payment,  on  the  first 
flay  of  November,  to  receive  some  of  tiie  sacred  fire  from  the  altar,  to  rekindle  those 
4n  itheir  houses.  By  this  ^device  they  were  obliged  to  pay,  or  be  deprived  of  the  use 
of  fire  during  the  approaching  winter.  If  any  neighbour  out  of  compassion  supplied 
'them  with  me,  or  even  conversed  with  them  m  their  state  of  delinquency,  they  were 
subjected  to  the  same  'terrible  sentence  of  excommunication.  Adverting  to  these 
:86Vehd  sources  of  revenue,  it  would  «eem  that  the  British  Druids  were  the  most  opu- 
fent»  as  wdl  as  the  mOiM;  Tenerated  body  of  men  in  the  country,  in  the  time  in  wmch 
^tibey  flourished.! 

» 

*  P^afOTM  MMsed  tlmt  aaciiltef  thoidd  addrest  the  gods,  not  in  rich  and  gaudy  habits,  but  only  in 
white  and  ckMtfi  robes.  The  Egyptian  priests  were  always  clothed  in  white  Hnen ;  so  were  the  Persian'magi 
and  kings.  The  Jews  had  their  white  ephod ;  and  the  Gauls  used  to  cany  in  procession  round  their  lands 
their  idols  covered  with  white  linen.— f^mg.  rfJDiad,  Sieul.  Hyde  de  Relig.  vet.  Pers.  p.  20.  S^  des  Gaul, 
p;104. 

t  Csmr  de  Bel.  Gal.  Ub.  i.  c  IS,    M,  Var.  Hist  lib,  ii.  c  51.    ToUmd's  Hist  of  die  Dmsdia  p.  7I« 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  13 

Ptiy»iology»  or  the  pliilo6<^y  of  nature,  formed  the  baais  of  the  British  religion, 
and  WW  the  &vourite  study  of  the  Druids.  They  believed,  according  to  Strabo^  that 
tile  universe  was  nev^  to  be  entirely  destroyed  or  annihilated,  but  was  to  undergo 
the  suooesGukHi  of  oeat  changes  and  revohitions,  which  were  to  be  produced  sometimes 
by  the  power  and  predompinancy  of  water,  and  sometimes  by  that  of  fire.  Their  sen- 
timepts  oonoeming  the  eternity  of  matter,  and  the  pesent  disposition  of  the  universe^ 
were  enpreewd  in  a  darjk:,  figurative,  and  enigmatical  manner.  Thdr  bdief  in  the 
sph^rksT  form  of  the  earth  may  be  proved  from  a  variety  of  drcumstanoes.*  Astro- 
nomy also  oonstituted  one  of  their  cnief  studies^  and  they  appear  to  have  cultivated 
the  science  with  considerable  success.  Their  circmnstances  mdeed  were  peculiarly 
favouraUe  to  the  pursuit  of  this  knowledge:  the  sun  and  moon,  and  perhaps  the 
planets^  were  the  great  ol^eets  of  their  adorationi  and  therefore  attracted  their  frequent 
attention.!  Caasar  affirms  that  the  British  Druids  had  many  disquisitions  concerning 
the  heavenly  bodies  and  their  motions ;  and  Mela  suggests,  that  they  rendered  this 
knowledge  highly  subservient  to  their  intenssts,  by  pretending  to  the  art  of  discovar* 
ing  the  counc^  and  desi^s  of  the  gods»  from  the  motions  and  aspects  of  the  heavens 
BSkd  of  the  stars. 

*  The  Druids  commuted  their  time  by  nights,  and  not  by  days»|  In  this  they  were 
oanfirmed  by  their  measuring  time  very  much  by  the  moon,  the  empress  and  tiie 
queen  <^  the  night  By  the  age  and  a^ect  of  the  moon  they  r^uiated  all  their 
great  soli^nnities,  both  sacned  and  civaL  Their  time  was  divided  into  months,  or  re- 
vohitions  of  the  moon ;  and  the  iargar  divi^iion  of  time»  called  a  year,  consisted  of  IS 
lunations,  or  8M  days,  which  was  the  most  ancient  measure  of  the  year  in  all  naticms* 

The  Druida  w^pe  nhysicians  as  w^  as  priests.  When  any  parson  of  distinction 
was  afflicted  with  a  oai^perous  diseases  he  was  requested  to  samfice  a  man  for  his 
recovery ;  because  they  insisted  that  the  anger  of  the  immortal  gods  (to  whom  they 
In^puted  various  diseases)  could  not  be  appeatod,  ao  aa  to  spare  the  life  of  one  fam$ 
but  by  the  lif e  of  onotfaar.  Hence  thar  medical  practices  were  attended  with  a  great 
iHnnber  oi  mi^^ieal  rites  and  incantations.  Thar  materim  medka  seems  to  have  con- 
sisted only  of  a  few  herbs,  which  were  believed  to  have  certain  salutary  and  healing 
virtues.  PHny  mentiaQis  aevawil  herbs  o(  whose  sanative  qualities  they  entertained  a 
high  opinion.  From  the  imperfect  hints  pertaining  to  this  subject  that  have  been 
collected,  it  has  been  inferred,  thi^  for  the  age  in  which  they  lived,  these  priests  were 
no  contemptible  botanists, 

*  Cicero  de  Dhr.  Ob.  I    Dio^.  Sfe.  Kb.  t.  c  91.     Sftrabo,  Bb,  fv.    Mek,  Hb.  fit.  t.  K.    Ammfen  MareA 

f  ifr.  tewlMii  msatfoiu a idiosrilMaBaaBUiesiannlit kahili  kk  Ae  ulaof  ADgleiey>  iMdt  m  Mllsd 
M)anng.BmdyB/ i.  e.  As  AstrawoMMr  Smm,  or  Cirds.  This  is  mimMMf  fta  fwafas  ct  m  DraidiwJ 
obeervAtory.— Hbna.  Anfiq.p.  85* 

t  The  andents  believed  Uua  nigiii  wis  bcim  <%,  or  iiglitf  etiA  Offihetts  ofls  nigfat  the  mother  of  all 
things.  The  custom  of  redconing  time  by  nights  still  prevails  in  England.  The  space  of  seven  days  we  call 
a  tfftmi^kt,  and  the  space  of  fomrleee  Ays  we  cdU-  tLJhttnig^y  vtfotaietturigkt. 

VOL,  I,  D 


14  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

If 

The  Druids,  in  order  to  support  and  advance  their  reputation,  assiduously  studied 
the  art  of  rhetoric.  They,  indeed,  had  many  opportunities  of  exercising  their  elo- 
quence while  they  taught  their  disciples  in  the  schools;  when  they  disooursed  in 
public  to  the  people  on  subjects  of  religion  and  morality ;  when  they  pleaded  causes 
m  the  courts  of  justice;*  and  when  they  argued  in  the  great  councils  of  the  nation, 
and  at  the  head  of  the  armies  ready  to  engage  in  battle,  sometimes  for  inflaming  their 
courage,  and  at  other  times  for  allaying  their  fury,  and  disposing  them  to  peace. 
Such  was  the  effect  of  their  elo(juence,  that  it  engaged  respect  both  from  frienas  and 
enemies.  Accordingly,  the  British  kings  and  chieftains  who  were  educated  by  the 
Druids,  were  famous  for  their  eloquence.f 

The  academies  of  the  Druids  were  usually  situated  in  the  deepest  recesses  of  woods, 
hear  some  noted  temple,  where  the  learned  professors  delivered  their  lectures  to  their 
pupils.  These  lectures  were  all  in  verse,  after  the  example  of  the  most  ancient  na- 
tions, and  a  Druidical  coiu*se  of  education,  containing  the  whole  circle  of  sciences  that 
were  then  taught,  is  said  to  have  consisted  of  about  20,000  verses,  and  to  hi^ve  lasted, 
in  some  cases,  20  years.  The  scholars  were  not  allowed  to  commit  any  of  these  verses 
to  writings,  but  were  obliged  to  get  them  all  by  heart.^  When  the  youths  were  first 
admitted  into  these  academies,  they  were  compelled  to  submit  *to  certain  oaths  and 
other  initiatory  ceremonies.  They  constantly  resided  with  their  teachers  and  fellow- 
« students,  and  were  forbidden  to  converse  with  any  other  person,  till  they  were  regu- 
larly dismissed.  So  highly  were  the  Druids  of  Britain  famed  for  their  talents  and 
probity,  that  the  noble  youths  of  Gaul  were  placed  imder  their  tuition.  Notwith- 
standing  the  doubts  that  have  been  advanced  on  the  subject,  it  is  suiBciently  evident 
that  the  more  learned  Druids  knew,  and  in  some  cases  used,  the  letters  of  the  Greek 
alphabet.  These  priests  were  also  much  addicted  to  magic  and  divination,  which  th^ 
cmtivated  with  such  astonishing  success,  that,  according  to  Pliny,  they  seemed  capable 
of  instructing  even  the  Persians  themselves  in  these  arts.  So  famous  were  they  for 
the  supposed  veracity  of  their  predictions,  that  they  were  not  only  consulted  on  all 
important  occasions  by  their  own  princes  and  great  men,  but  even  sometimes  by  the 
Roman  emperors. 

Agreeably  to  the  practice  of  the  other  priests  of  antiquity,  the  Druids  had  two  sets 

*  Some  distinct  points  in  the  modem  doctrines  of  our  English  law  have  «  striking  affinity  to  the  Druidical 
tenets.  The  notion  of  an  oral,  unwritten  law,  which,  in  its  principle,  is  the  common  law  of  England^  is  fairly 
referable  to  a  British  original.  So  is  the  custom  of  GaveUkmA,  which  exists  in  the  county  of  Kent  and  some 
other  parts,  and  which  admits  that  the  tenant  is  of  Bgit  sufficient  to  alienate  his  estate  fay  feoffiment  at  fifteen, 
and  that  the  estate  dees  not  escheat  in  case  of  attainder  and  execution  for  felony,  according  to  an  aacieot 
maxim,  **  the  father  to  the  bough,  and  the  son  to  the  plough."  By  this  tenure  also^  the  lands  descend  not  by 
right  of  primogeniture^  but  to  all  the  sona  together.  The  present  mode  of  dividing  the  goods  of  aa  intMate 
between  his  widow  and  children,  or  next  of  kin^  ia  a  revival  of  the  ancient  Celtic  law.— -^/^cib^oneV  Cammmt. 
voL  (L  p.  S4h    Seld,  Analect,  lib.  U,  c,  7*    Lamb.  Peramb.  614  and  6S4. 

t  Mela  de  Situ  Oifois>  lib.  iii.  c  9.    Luciain  in  Heitule  Gallico. 


t  The  same  custom  was  reoommended  and  practised  by  PythagoQis,  Lycur gus^  and  Soontes,  and  other 
enlightened  philosophers  among  the  ancients. 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  16 

of  doctsrines,  one  of  which  was.made  publii^  9ixd  calculated  to  ndae  a  terrific  train  of 
phantasies  for  the  delusion  and  amusanent  of  the  imagination ;  and  another,  which . 
they  communicated  only  to  the  initiated,  and  which  they  studiously  concealed  from 
the  rest  of  mankind.     Their  public  theology  consisted  of  mythological  fables,  con- 
earning  the  genealogies,  attributes,  offices,  and  actions  of  their  gods,  and  the  various 
superstitious  methods  of  appeasing  their  anger,  gainitig  their  favour,  and  discovering 
their  wiH.    With  this  fabulous  divinity  they  intermixed  moral  precepts.    The  great 
objects  of  their  order  were,  according  to  uiemselves,  ''to  reform  morals,  to  seciu'e 
peace,  and  to  enooun^e  goodness."    The  primarv  lesson  they  taught  was  certainly 
conducive  to  these  ends:  "The  first  true  principles  of  wisdom  are,  obedience  to  the 
laws  oi  God,  concern  for  the  good  of  man»  and  fortitude  under  the  accidents  of  life."* 
The  secret  doctrines  of  the  Druids  perished  with  that  order.    However,  the  im- 
mortality of  the  soul  seems  to  bscve  been  one  doctrine,  which,  for  political  reasons, 
they  were  permitted  to  publish.     It  was,  indeed,  a  powerful  en^e  in  the  hands  of 
the  priesthood.     It  inspired  the  weak  with  firmness  and  intrepidity ;  it  animated  the 
servant  to  die  with  his  master-^the  wife  to  follow  her  deceasea  husband — ^the  old  and 
decr^id  to  precipitate  themselves  from  locks,  or  to  mount  with  cheerfulness  their 
x>wn  funeral  pile ;  it  reconciled  the  devoted  victim  to  beocnne  a  sacrifice — ^the  creditor 
to  postpone  his  demands  till  the  next  life-— and  the  man  of  business  became  thereby 
contented  to  dispatch  letters  to  his  correspondents,  by  throwinffthem  into  the  funeral 
pile  of  some  dead  acquaintance.    According  to  Caesar,  and  jDiodorus  Siculus,  the 
I)ruids  taught  the  Pythagorian  doctrine  of  t£e  metempsvchosis,  or  transmigration  of 
souls  into  odier  bodies ;  but  so^ie  writers  contend,  that  this  opinion  was  only  partially 
recdved  by  the  British  ]^rie8ts»  and  represait  them  as  teaching,  that  the  soul  after 
death  ascended  to  some  higher  orb,  and  enjoyed  a  more  sublime  felicity.f 

The  w^  tiie  most  ancient  and  universal  otgect  of  idolatrous  worship^  received  the 
homage  of  the  ancient  Britons  under  the  names  of  Bel,  Belinus,  Apollo,  dec.  which 
names  were  expressive  in  their  language  of  the  nature  and  properties  of  that  visible 
fountain  of  light  and  heat.  To  rais  illustrious  object  of  idolatrous  worship  those 
famous  cdrdes  of  stones,  sevjcral  of  which  remain,  seem  to  have  been  chiefly  dedicated, 
where  the  priests  kept  the  sacred  fire,  the  symbol  of  this  divinity.  The  nukm  also,  as 
before  observed,  obtained  a  large  ^hare  of  the  idolatrous  worship  of  the  ancient  Bri- 
tons. The  god  Hems  (a  word  expressive  of  omnipotence)  presided  over  war  and 
armies,  and  was  the  same  with  Mars.  He  was  a  favourite  witii  this  warlike  people. 
TeuUUis  was  the  sovereign  of  the  infernal  world,  the  genius  of  evil,  and  was  worship- 
ped in  such  a  manner  as  would  be  agreeable  to  none  but  an  infernal  power.  Tarants^ 
the  god  of  thunder,  was  worshipped  by  very  inhuman  rites.  The  Britons  likewise 
adored  several  demi-gods,.  or  deified  mortals,  whio  had  been  victorious  princes,  wise 
l^bslators,  or  inventors  of  useful  arts.  Woods,  waters,  fires,  and  rocl^,,  were  also 
the  objects  of  adoration. 

^  Thtee  two  triad9  may  he  titefk  m  Davis  (Celt.  Resesrches,  ISl,  IS2).    The  latter  had  been  translated  by 
.DioigfiKB  LaertinB  (in  Ptocm,  p.  5)  many  centuries  ago. 

tOaver.Genn.  Antp.219.   JEteL  de  Gaul,  voL  ii.   Diog.  Laert.  de  Druid.   Borlase's  Cornwall^  p.  50-^. 


18  DfiSCMPTIOir  OP  THE 

l^he  Druids  Were  pet^ectly  skilled  ki  th^  art  of  exiting  thiU;  awful  solemnity  and 
relij^ous  hotter,  which  subdues  the  soul  tsnd  extends  the  empire  of  superstition. 
Their  worship  consisted  of  soii^gs  of  pnise  $nd  thanksgiving,  prayers  and  supplications^ 
bfPeilngs  dnd  sacrifices,  and  the  various  rites  of  augury  and  divination.  Hunuin  vic^ 
tittle  constituted  a  part  of  their  sacrifices^  the  altars  streamed  with  human  blood,  ai^ 
great  numbers  of  wretched  men  fell  victims  to  a  barbarous  superstition.  Criminak 
were  sacrificed  in  the  first  instance ;  but  when  there  was  a  scarcitv  of  these,  innocent 
persons  supplied  their  place.  These  dreadful  sacrifices  were  oj^sred  at  the  eve  of  a 
d^ngefrous  war,  or  in  a  time  of  any  national  calamity,  and  also  for  penoiis  of  high 
rank,  when  they  were  afili<;ted  with  any  dangerous  disease.  They  were  not,  sis  has. 
been  pretended,  merely  a<^  of  public  justice.  In  fact,  the  more  virtuous  simI  beloved 
was  the  victim,  the  more  acceptable  the^jr  aooounted  the  offering.  Henee,  even  princes 
and  the  most  noble  youths  were  occasionally  devoted  to  tiidr  gods ;  atitd  to  reconcile 
^ch  victims  to  their  fate,  the  Druids  taught  that  their  souls  were  tnmslated  into  the 
immediate  presence  of  the  immortal  gods.*  On  these  occasions^  the  victim  was  led 
into  the  depth  of  a  wood,  that  the  gloom  might  add  to  the  hontot  of  the  operation, 
and  give  a  wverence  to  the  cruel  procMdii^,  where^  certain  rites  being  petfcnined, 
the  wretched  man  was  cut  in  two  across  the  dii^hragm,  and  the  priests  drew  their 
tM-edictiotis  (such  erudition  there  is  in  butdiery)  from  the  position  in  which  he  fell» 
the  course  of  tiie  blood,  and  the  quivering  motion  of  the  memb(»rs.  But  the  cru^ 
ingenuity  of  the  priests  devised  various  modes  of  sacrificing  their  victims.  While  the 
votive  blood  flowed,  and  the  sacrifice  was  consuming,  the  groans  of  the  victims  were 
not  heard  amid  the  dangtmr  of  musioed  instruments.  After  this  hoirid  rite  was  per^ 
formed,  the  priests  p^yira  most  solemnhr  to  tiie  gods,  with  uplifted  hands  and  fervent 
zeal,  and  the  homd  tn^edy  generally  dosed  wi(K  a  scene  of  riotous  drunbeiiness.f 

liie  Britons  were  not  singular  in  these  harfoaroua  practioes.  In  eaily  ages,  most 
nations  wero  guilty  of  this  species  of  cmelty.  It  proceeded  from  a  mistakm  notion 
of  tiie  I>eity,  formed  on  the  Male  of  human  ftelii^  b;|r  the  worst  and  most  tyranaoua 
of  manidna  Accordingly,  the  Masssgete^  the  ^ytinans,  the  C}etea»  the  Sannatianfli 
and  aD  the  various  nations  upon  the  B^ic,  partiouWly  the  Sueir  and  Scandinavians^ 

*  iBieL  de  Gaul.  vol.  u.  p.  ZZ6. 

f  l*h«  Britons  broiigkt  their  women  naked  to  tiheBe  sserificSB,  afid^  ft&Ok  the  mad  Mtempenndt  vthSdk  m^ 
sued,  it  lias  been  presumed  thiEilt  the  part  Aey  batt  in  tlie  viubseqiieiit  iHes  ^vtM  ttdvher  duMe  nor  Miet^^ 
IThis^  however,  is  no  at^^oiafelM  against  Hie  gc»ier«L  contisMicy  of  ihe  British  ladies.  Emn  the  jealosa 
£gy)pitians,  oYi  icefitain  ocessions,  petrtitbeA  Uieor  women  to  devete  llieir  persMia  At  Ab  tompfes.  The  Jewiik 
iemHes  ad61«d  the  ^'^^ueen  of  Iteaven*  iiia'«teBar  nainner.  tiie  jproplM  JemniaK  in  the  «pistleof  Bsrudi^ 
SMSfibed  tq  httti,  ^Mys,  k  wiu  Hie  <»micm  for  all  the  you&g  viipm  ef  Bab/kafa,  w^n  4hejr  anriv^d  aT 
maturity,  jto  sit  in  the  avenue  of  the  temple,  with  a  girdle  round  the  middle,  untfl-a  alnu^gtr,  led  them  away 
to  a  place  of  privacy.  Upon  her  return  she  upbraided  her  n^ghbours  for  not  bdlng  thought  worthy  of  the 
like  honour.  This  account  is  confirmed  by  the  testimony  of  Herodotus.  A  similar  custom  prevailed  in 
K^ersia  and  typrus.  tn  AMbifehi&,  it  h  a  i«figi<nas  hMit/Aat,  ^A^riM  -SMbe^  nkHtMytumag  «iiigias  akttuld,  in 
honour  of  the  goddess,  be  proetituted  in  the  temple,  rffcer^iyfiSdl  tfacy  ige  peifntowi  ItoW  fiai^  ia  mmyia^ 
Zb  fiu:t,  preetitution  seems  andoitly  to  have  formed  a  part  of  the  religion  of  almost  all  nation8.«^Banici,  «« 
v.  V,  43.     Herod.  Ub.  t.  c.  1^.    ISlrabo,  Ub,  u.  y.  WS.    Jet.  t.  »to.  V.  18,  tp. 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  17 

lield  it  as  a  fixed  principle,  that  their  happiness  and  s^urity  could  liot  be  obtained 
but  by  human  sacrifices.  The  islands  of  Kugen,  Zealand,  and  Upsal,  were  famous 
for  the  numerous  victims  there  offered.  The  Gauls,  the  Cimbri,  the  Norwegians,  and 
the  Icelanders,  slaughtered  their  victims,  like  the  Britons,  in  various  ways ;  and  the 
Grermans  were  so  devoted  to  this  shocking  custom,  that  no  business  of  any  moment 
was  transacted  among  them  without  being  prefaced  by  the  blood  of  men.* 

Pliny  intimates  that  the  Druids  ate  part  of  the  human  victim,  which  is  not  impro- 
bable, for  this  also  seems  to  have  been  a  very  ancient  and  general  practice.  In  the 
island  of  Chios  it  was  a  religious  custom  to  tear  a  man  limb  from  limb ;  and,  accord* 
ing  to  Porphyry,  the  same  prevailed  at  Tendos.  The  Lamiae,  who  inhabited  different 
parts  of  Italy,  Greece,  Pontus,  and  Lybia,  are  represented  in  the  same  unfavourable 
li^ht.  Philetratus  speaks  of  their  bestial  appetite,  and  Aristotle  alludes  to  practices 
still  more  shocking,  as  if  they  tore  open  the  bodies  bi^  with  child,  that  they  might 
get  at  the  infant  to  devour  it  Strabo  also  mentions  uiat  the  ancient  Lamias  were 
equally  cruel.  '  The  Sirens,  on  the  coast  of  Campania,  are  celebrated  for  their  alliuing 
arts  and  cruel  practices ;  and  Silenus,  in  a  passage  quoted  by  Euripides,  says,  that  the 
Cydopians  feasted  greedily  on  the  flesh  of  their  unhappv  victims.  So  very  awful,  it 
seems,  was  the  impression  of  thje  mysterious  cruelty  of  the  Druids  on  the  minds  of 
strangers,  that  the  Roman  veterans  dreaded  to  approach  the  saored  groves  where  they 
performed  their  bloody  worship.f 

The  Britons  had  several  annual  festivals,  which  were  observed  with  great  devotion ; 
of  this  kind  was  the  august  solenmity  of  cutting  the  misletoe  of  the  oak,  which  was 

*  We  might  quote  innumerable  passages  from  the  ancients  to  prove  the  universality  of  this  horrid  custom. 
The  ancient  Egyptians^  so  jusdy  celebrated  fot  their  wisdom  and  humanity,  burnt  human  victims  alive  upon 
the  altars  of  T3rphon  and  Juno.  Similar  practices  prevailed  among  the  ancient  nations  of  India  and  the  tribes 
of  Arabia.  The  Persians  buried  their  victims  alive.  Plutarch  informs  us  that  Amestris,  the  wife  of  Xerxes, 
entombed  twelve  persons  quick  under  ground  for  the  good  of  her  soul.  Aristomenes,  the  Messinian^  sacrifi- 
ced three  hundred  Lacedemonians,  among  whom  was  the  king  of  Sparta,  at  the  altar  of  Jupiter.  The 
I^aoedemonians  offered  the  like  number  of  captives  at  the  altar  of  Mars.  The  ancient  Romans  were  accustomed 
to, the  like  sacrifices ;  they  both  devoted  themselves  to  the  infernal  gods,  and  constrained  others  to  submit  to 
the  same  horrid  doom.  The  nations  of  Canaan  and  the  Carthagenians  chose  the  most  excellent  victims.  Those 
who  were  sacrificed  to  Moloch,  or  Saturn,  the  god  of  light  and  fire,  were  thrown  into  the  arms  of  a  molten 
idol,  which  stood  in  the  midst  of  a  large  fire,  and  was  red  with  heat  The  arms  of  it  were  stretched  out,  wiA 
the  hands  turned  upwards,  as  it  were  to  receive  them,  yet  sloping  downwards,  so  that  they  dropt  firom  them 
into  a  glowing  furnace  below.  At  one  public  sacrifice,  the  Carthagenians  ofiered  two  hundred  sons  of  the 
nobility,  besides  three  hundred  other  victims  who  presented  themselves  voluntarily.  Sometimes  they  were 
odierwise  slaughtered,  and  by  the  very  hands  of  their  parents,  who  after  the  warmest  expressions  of  kindness 
and  endearments,  stabbed  them  to  the  heart,  and  with  the  warm  blood  besmeared  the  grim  visage  of  the 
idol  Ashteroth,  or  BaaL  These  cruel  rites  were  practised  also  by  the  Israelites.  Even  in  modem  times  the 
custom  of  human  sacrifices  prevailed  in  a  great  degree  at  Mexico,  under  the  mild  government  of  the  Peruvians, 
and  in  most  parts  of  America.  In  Africa  it  is  still  kept  up,  where,  in  the  inland  parts,  they  sacrifice  the 
captives  taken  in  war  to  their  Fetiches;  and  the  same  custom  continues  to  be  observed  throughout  the  islands 
of  the  South  Sea. 

t  The  custom  was  condemned  by  Augustus,  and  punished  and  abolished  by  Tiberius  and  Ckudius. 
V.OL,  I.  E 


18  DESCRIPTION  OF  ' 


performed  by  liie  Arch-Druid^  and  it  is  tiras  described  by  Pfiny :  '^The  Druids  heU 
nothing  so  sacred  as  the  mialetoe  of  the  oak ;  as  tiiis  is  very  scarce,  and  rarely  to  be 
found,  when  any  of  it  is  discovered  they  go  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony  on  a  oeru 
tain  day  to  gather  it  When  they  have  got  every  thing  in  readiness  under  the  oak; 
both  for  the  sacrifice  and  the  banquet  which  they  make  on  iMs  great  festival,  they 
begin  by  t3ring  two  white  bulls  to  it  by  the  horns ;  then  one  of  the  Druids,  dotiied 
in  white,  mounts  the  tree,  and  with  a  knife  of  gold  cuts  the  misletoe,  whidi  is  received 
in  a  white  simim ;  this  done,  they  proceed  to  their  sacrificing  and  feasting.**  This 
festival  was  kept  on  the  sixth  day  of  tihie  moon,  and  as  nesr  as  this  pemiitted  to  the 
tenth  of  March,  which  was  their  new-year's  day. 

The  first  day  of  May  was  a  great  annual  festival  in  honour  of  the  sun.  Midsum-. 
met  day  and  tne  first  of  November  were  likewise  annual  festivals ;  the  <Hie  to  implore 
the  friendly  influence  of  heaven  upon  their  fields,  and  the  other  to  return  thanks  for 
the  favourable  seasons  and  the  fruits  of  the  earth.  It  is  also  probable  that  all  their 
gods  and  goddesses,  their  sacred  groves,  their  hallowed  hills,  lakes,  and  fountains,  had 
tiieir  several  annud  festivals  marked  in  the  Druidish  calendar.  On  these  festivals^ 
after  the  appointed  acts  of  devotion  were  finished,  the  rest  of  the  time  was  spent  in 
feasting,  singing,  dancing,  and  all  kinds  of  diversion. 

That  it  was  unlawfril  to  build  temples  to  the  immortal  gods,  or  to  worship  them 
imder  walls  or  roofs,  was  an  article  in  the  Druidical  creed*.  All  their  places  of  wor*. 
ship,  therefore,  were  in  the  opai  air,  and  generally  on  endnences ;  but,  to  prevent  be« 
ing  incommoded  by  the  wind  and  rain,  or  distracted  by  the  view  of  external  objects^ 
or  disturbed  by  the  intrusion  of  unhallowed  feet,  when  they  were  either  instructing 
their  disciples  or  performing  their  rdigious  rites,  they  selected  the  deepest  recesses  of 
groves  and  woods  for  their  sacred  places.    These  sacred  oak  grovesf  were  watered  by 

• 

*,DuriDg  the  expedition  of  Xemes  into  Greece,  all  the  Ovedan  temples  were  burnt  at  the  instigation  of 
the  Magi^  because  the  GricianB  were  so  impious  as  to  circumacribe  the  habitation  of  the  gods^— -their  temple 
being  the  universal  world— Ctcero. 

t  The  Jews  were  strongly  inftcted  with  the  same  idolatrous  veneraticm  for  the  oak.  Hence  the  prophet 
exclaims,  "  They  shall  be  ashamed  of  the  oaks  which  they  have  desired^  and  ye  shall  be  confounded  for  the 
gardens  that  ye  have  chosen."— If atai^,  c.  L  v.  29.  Lucan  has  poetically  described  one  of  the  Druidical  gnxvca 
abovcMnentioned  in  the  following  manner :— - 

''  Lucas  emt  longo  nunquam  Yiolataa  ab  ssvo;,''  &c 

Phart.  m.  nL  e.  S99m 

**  Not  far  away,  for  ages  past  had  stood 
An  old,  unviolated,  sacred  wood; 
Whose  gloomy  boughs  thick  interwoven  made 
A  chilly,  cheerless,  everlasting  shade: 
There,  nor  the  rustic  gods,  nor  satyrs  Sport, 
Nor  fkuns  and  sylvans  with  the  nymphs  resort ; 
But  barb'rous  priests  some  dreadful  pow'r  adore. 
And  lustra^  ev'ry  tree  with  human  gore,**  &c. 


ABORIGINES  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  19 

some  cxmseorated  fountain  or  river,  and  enclosed  by  a  ditch  or  mound.  In  the  centre 
of  the  grove  was  a  circuJar  area,  inclosed  with  one  or  two  rows  of  large  stonea,  set 
perpenmcularly  in  the  earth,  which  constituted  the  temple,  within  which  the  altar. 
stood  on  which  the  sacrifices  were  ofiPered.  There  are  stsll  many  vestiges  of  these 
temples  in  the  British  isles.  The  Drwdic  veitigee  is  Northumberland  w}U  be  here- 
after described. 

-  Although  the  ancient  Britons  admitted  no  image  of  their  gods,  at  least  none  in  the 
shape  of  men  or  other  animals,  in  their  sacred  groves,  yet  they  had  certain  visibly 
symbols  or  emblems  of  them.  A  cube  was  the  symbol  of  Mercury,  and  Jupiter  was 
represented  by  a  lofty  oak.  The  oaks  used  for  tlus  purpose  were  truncated,  that  they 
might  be  the  more  cmUemfttic  of  unshnken  finnnesi  and  titabilit/.  Sadi  were  those 
in  the  Druidical  grove  described  by  liucan  * — 

(<^_Siittiilacraqiie  moesta  detHiun  "  Strong  knotted  trunks  of  oak  stood  neor^ 

Arte  orenL    Caeaisque  extant  in&niua  tniiicis."  And  srtlesB  emblems  of  their  gods  aj^iesr.' 

The  British  Druids  exCTdsed  their  authority  in  opposing  the  usurpations  of  the 
Roman  invaders.  Fired  with  correspondent  resentment,  that  victorious  people  deter- 
mined to  seek  security  in  the  destruction  of  the  Druidic  order.  In  every  quarter  the 
British  priests  were  sacrificed  to  this  cruel  poli^.  Those  who  retired  to  the  i^  of 
Anglesey  perished  in  the  flames  by  the  orders  of  Suetonius ;  taid  iffimediatdy  tAex, 
vast  numbers  were  destroyed  in  the  unfortunate  revolt  of  the  Britons  under  Boadicea. 
From  this  period  Uie  power  and  glory  of  the  Drmds  rapidly  dis^pfeored.  But  so 
deeply  rooted  were  the  principles  of  Druidism  in  the  minds  of  the  Btitons,  thiit  they 
equally  b^ed  the  power  of  the  Romans  and  ^e  light  of  tlie  gospeL  Even  so  late 
BS  the  eleventh  century,  Canute  found  it  necessary  to  promulgate  a  law  M^st  hea- 
thenish superstitions.  The  rude  but  venerable  remains  of  the  ancient  Britons  ui 
Northumberland  will  be  noticed  in  subsequent  parts  of  the  work. 

Raving  given  this  descriptive  sketdi  of  the  physical  aild  moral  state  of  the  ancient 
Britons,  which  indudes  that  of  the  abori^nal  inhabitants  of  this  county,  we  shall  now 
proceed  to  take  a  rapid  view  of  those  important  occurrences  thfct  followed  the  IlOmait 
iQTWion,  and  which  more  particularly  relate  to  the  district  of  Northumberland, 


ROMAN  HISTORY 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


H£  historical  notices  cbnceming  the  conquest  of  Northumberland,  in 
the  Koman  authors,  are  extremely  unsatisfactory,  and  the  events  re- 
corded -by  them  to  have  happened  in  this  part  of  Britain  so  imperfectly 
related,  that  it  becomes  mfficult  to  form  them  into  an  uninterrupted 
narration.     According  to  Ptolemy,*  the  people  who  inhabited  that 
,  tract  of  sea-coast  extending  from  the  river  Tyne  to  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
induding  the  half  of  Nortimmberland,  the  east  part  of  Roxbumh- 
^shire,  the  whole  of  Berwick,  and  of  East  Lothian,  were"  called  the  Otodim.    This 
name  is  derived,  by  Baxter,  from  the  British  words  Ot  o  dineu,  which  signily  a  high 
and  rocky  shore :  but  Chalmers  traces  the  word  from  the  British  Odd,  or  Om,  signi- 
^ing  what  tends  out  from ;  so  Odd-y-tin  implies  the  re^on  tending  out  from  the 
Tyne.    The  chief  town  of  the  Otodira  was  at  Bremenium,  which  is  admitted  to  be 
Biochester,  on  the  Reed  water.    The  neighbouring  tribe  of  the  Gadeni  inhabited  the 
interior  of  the  country  to  the  west  of  the  Otodini,  from  the  Tyne  on  the  south  to  the 
Forth  on  the  north,  comprehending  the  west  part  of  Northumberland,  the  small  dis- 
trict of  Cumberlimd  north  of  the  Irthing  river,  the  west  part  of  Roxburgh,  the  whole 
of  Sdkirk,  Tweedale,  great  part  of  Mid  Xothiwi,  and  nearly  all  West  Lothian,  having 
Curia,  on  the  Gore  water,  for  their  capital.    The  word  Crodeni,  Dr.  Macpherson  ima- 

*  The  primary  guide  towards  ascertaining  the  geography  of  sndent  Britain  is  PuAexay  of  Atexandris,  the 
great  geogr^her,  nuthemadcian,  and  aatronomer,  vho  flourished  towards  the  middle  of  the  second  centiuy. 
Richard  of  Cirencester,  a  motik  of  Westminster,  who  lived  in  tile  14th  century,  composed  a  "Description  of 
Britain,"  accompanied  with  an  iUusbvtive  map.  This  industrious  monk  appears  to  have  wrote  from  better  do- 
comeiita  and  more  copious  information  than  Ptolemy :  hia  authority  ■■  therefore  Allowed  by  the  intelligent  an- 
dquariei  of  tfae  present  day,  who  hare  directed  a  particular  attention  to  Uie  topographical  ponti<ai  of  the  British 
tribes.— Horfj:^'*  Brit.  Som.  p.  S56.     Btynald^  /<m.  afAtUtmUtu,  p.  SS.     Ckalmer/  Caiedtm.  vofl  i.  p.  59- 


ROMAN  HISTORY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  81 


gines,  signified,  in  the  ancient  British  language,  Thieves  or  jRobheri ;  while  others, 
well  acquainted  with  the  British  language,  imagine  that  their  name  is  derived  from 
the  many  groves  which,  in  those  days,  added  both  strei:^h  and  ornament  to  their 

Sicturesque  country.  But  it  is  generally  allowed  that  both  these  tribes  were  either 
ependants  of  the  Brigantes^  or  at  least  confederates  with  them  ;  for  they  were  occa* 
sionally  distinguished  by  the  same  name,  and  in  their  history  and  fate  they  were 
equally  united.  The  Brigantes  were  the  most  numevous  and  powerful  of  the  British 
nations.  Their  territories  included  that  vast  tract  of  oomitry  which  is  now  divided 
into  Yorkshire  and  the  county  of  Durham  on  tlje  c«»t  coast,  and  Lancashire,  West, 
moreland,  Cumberland,  and  some  portion  of  Northumberland,  on  the  west.  Their 
name  is  supposed  to  imply,  in  the  British  language,  the  People  of  the  Summits. 

The  invasion  of  the  southern  shores  of  Great  Britain  by  uie  Romans  under  Caesar, 
was  opposed  by  such  a  combination  of  bravery  and  poBcy,  as  discouraged  the  repeti- 
tion of  such  expeditions  for  upwards  of  a  century.  The  conquest  of  our  island  was 
at  length  undertaken  by  some  of  the  ablest  generals  of  Rome.  The  discipline  and 
perseverance  of  the  Roman  armies  gradually  prevailed  over  the  disunited  but  vigour- 
ous  efforts  of  the  natives,  and  their  authority  was  successively  acknowledged  by  the 
southern  tribes.  The  inhabitants  of  these  northern  parts  appear  to  have  been  in  alli- 
ance with  the  Romans,  till  the  conjugal  infid^ty  of  Cartismandua,  que^i  of  the  Bri- 
gantes, involved  the  nation  in  a  civil  war.  The  Romans  attached  themselves  to  the 
Eerfidious  queen ;  but  the  injured  husband,  after  a  long  and  destructive  war,  which 
e  conducted  with  consummate  skill  and  bravery,  surmounted  all  opposition,  and  was 
reinstated  on  his  throne.  About  twenty  years  afterwards,  in  the  reign  of  Vespasian, 
the  Romans,  under  Petilius  Cerealis,  defeated  the  Brigantes  in  several  severe  battles^ 
and  spread  desolation  and  terror  through  those  parts  of  their  country  which  they 
coidd  not  entirely  subdue. 

The  Romans  had  not  yet  ventured  to  penetrate  into  Northumberland;  but,  in 
A.  D.  80,  Agricola  led  his  legions  from  Mancunium,  (the  Manchester  of  the  present 
time),  and  marched  into  the  north  along  the  western  coost*^  Having,  partly  by  the 
terror  of  his  arms,  and  partly  by  the  fame  of  his  demency,  subdued  many  unknown 
tribes,  he  endeavoured  to  secure  his  conquests  by  building  a  chain  of  forts  across  the 
isthmus  between  the  Firths  of  Clyde  and  Forth.  This  consummate  commander  next 
penetrated  into  the  recesses  of  Caledonia,f  and  after  an  obstinate  battle  defeated  the 
Britons  under  Galgacus,  at  the  foot  of  the  Grampian  mountains.  After  this  victory 
Agricola  slowly  conducted  his  troops  back  thrwigh  the  conquered  tribes,  and  in  the 
year  84,  traversed  the  tenitories  of  the  Otodini  and  Gadeni,  and  took  winter 
quarters,  it  is  supposed,  on  the  south  of  the  Tyne  and  the  Solway.    This  appears  to 

*  Horsley's  Rom.  p.  45.    Whitaker's  Hist  of  M&nch.  ^^vo,  vol.  i.  p.  45. 

t  The  Caledmnsiis  were  •  powerfbl  tribe  tint  inhafaitod  tht  mewktMBoiM  rvgioAs  betwten  Perth  and  InTer* 
ness.  As  these  interior  district*  wevsi,  in  e«riy  age^  cerored  withien  exteimve  fbrest,  the  British  people  gare 
t  the  descriptive  appelktion  of  C^kfUim,  a^iaiffii^  i^  their  language  the  cm)€rU.  This  British  word  was 
latinised  by  the  Romans  Caledonia  and  Caledonu,  which  term  was  usually  extended  to  the  whole  country 
which  lay  northward  of  the  Forth.  Plmy  mentions  the  Cakdoman  fmuU^'^'Omiis  DiU.  in  «o,  Welek  Ar^^ 
chaioiogy,  roL  t.  fx^e  150.    P/tf>y«  /.  t.  e.  jm. 

VOL,  I,  F 


Its  ROMAN  HISTORY  OP 

have  been  the  time  when  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  this  county  were  finally  compelled 
to  yield  to  the  Roman  arms.  To  secure  his  conquests,  he  built  a  chain  of  stations 
from  Solway  Firth  to  Tynemouth.  However,  these  circumstances,  though  generally 
received  as  historical  facts,  are  derived  from  presumptive  rather  than  from  conclusive 
evidence. 

The  Roman  conqueror  was  too  enlightened  to  depend  for  security  on  the  numerous 
castles  and  fortresses  by  which  he  had  divided  the  natives.  He  also  erected  temples, 
markets,  and  private  bufldings  ;  and,  with  innumerable  artifices,  promoted  the  adop- 
tion of  the  Roman  habit,  customs,  luxuries,  and  t)leasiu*e.  At  length  the  fierce  and 
independent  inhabitants  of  this  county  were  conciliated,  and  became  one  people  with 
their  conquerors.  Those  who  proudly  refused  to  crouch  to  the  imperial  eagle,  retired 
northwara  to  the  Caledonian  Britons.  This  bold  and  ferocious  race  descended  ftom 
their  mountainous  regions  inflamed  with  rage,  and  by  their  frequent  and  destructive 
incursions  so  desolat^  the  Roman  teiritories,  that  Hadrian,  in  oider  to  repel  their  at- 
tacks, erected  a  rampart  of  earth,  A.  D.  120,  which  connected  the  forts  of  Agricola, 
and  extended  across  the  country  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tyne  to  Solway  Firth.  This 
vast  work  has,  in  every  succeeding  age,  been  a  striking  mcmument  of  the  skill  and 
perseverance  of  the  Romans,  and  an  evidence  of  the  dread  excited  by  the  daring  and 
destructive  exploits  of  the  indignant  Britons. 

During  the  reign  of  Antoninus  Pius,  the  independent  tribes  fought  several  severe 
battles  with  the  Romans  imder  Lollius  Urbicus,  by  whom  they  were  ultimately  sub- 
dued. In  the  mean  time  the  beneficent  Antoninus  extended  the  rif^ht  of  citizenship 
over  the  whole  Roman  empire ;  but  the  hardy  Britons  of  the  north  despised  such  pri- 
vileges, while  th^e  remained  among  them  indeliable  marks  of  subjection,  which  hum^ 
bled  their  pride  of  independ^ice,  and  incited  their  hatred  of  submission.  Findmg  it 
impossible  to  keep  the  warlike  and  hardy  Caledonians  in  subjection,  the  emperor's 
lieutenant  erected  a  strong  earthen  rampart  between  the  Clyde  and  the  Forth*.  This 
wdl  was  also  intended  to  ova»we  the  tribes  that  lived  within  it,  and  whose 
country  formed  the  province  of  Valentia.  With  the  same  policy  roads  were  made, 
posts  established,  and  forts  built  throughout  the  northern  district. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  second  century  the  Maeata^  and  Caledonians  invaded  the 

*  Several  inscriptions  relating  to  this  singular  fence  have  been  found  in  its  ruins,  and  engraved  by  the  Uni- 
versity of  Glasgow.  One  of  them  mentions  the  name  of  L.  Urbicus,  and  the  rest  not  only  point  out  the 
legions  employed  about  it,  but  the  number  of  paces  built  by  each  legion.  Horsley  and  Roy  have  described 
thL  Pneteniura  with  great  accuracy.  It  consisted,  1st,  of  a  vast  ditch  on  the  outside,  which  was  generally 
about  20  feet  deep  and  40  wide,  and  which,  there  is  some  cause  for  believing,  might  have  been  filled  with 
water  as  oecasion  required:  2d,  of  a  rampart  within  the  ditch«  which  was  upwards  of  20  feet  high,  and  24 
feet  thick,  composed  of  earth  on  a  stone  foundaticm ;  and  this  ditch  and  rampart  were  strengthened,  at  both 
the  extremities  and  throughout  its  whole  extent,  by  2  J  forts,  there  being  one  station  at  each  extremity  of  it, 
and  one  at  the  end  of  every  two  miks  nearly :  Sd,  of  a  military  road,  which,  as  a  necessary  appendage,  oouiaed 
within  the  rampart  fhim  end  to  end,  for  the  use  of  the  Roman  troops^  and  the  uaual  ooumunicatton  between 
so  many  stations.— iHor#Afy'#  Brii.  Rom.  Ub,  L  c.  or.    Bo^s  MUkaty  Aniiqmiks,  sec.  3. 

t  It  has  been  a  subject  of  antiquarian  discuaiion  whether  the  Mssatse  dweit  within  or  without  the  wall  of 
Antonine.     Those  who  suppose  that  they  Hved  mthoHi  the  wall,  in  the  country  below  the  narthem  co« 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  23 

■ 

Roman  territories,  and  committed  such  terrible  ravages  that  the  emperor  Severus^ 
about  the  year  208,  determined  to  take  the  field  against  them  in  person.  Accordingly 
he  entered  the  country  of  the  Maeatae,  and  forced  the  passes  and  strengths  of  Caledonia, 
at  the  head  of  a  ^reat  army,  surmounting  the  innumeraUe  obstacles  which  im- 
peded his  march,  with  a  firm  and  undeviating  step,  until  he  reached  the  Firth  of  Cro- 
marty,  where  he  condescended  to  accept  the  oners  of  submission  which  he  had  for- 
merly refused.*  But  it  appears  he  did  not  consider  his  conquests  as  secure,  or  of 
much  yalue ;  for,  on  his  return,  he  repaired  and  strengthened  the  rampart  of  Hadrian.f 
After  this,  Severus  retired  to  York,  where  his  a^e  and  increasing  infirmities  confined 
him  to  his  chamber.  His  indisposition  inspired  the  Masatas  and  Caledonians  with 
new  hopes ;  they  again  commenced  hostilities,  and  by  this  breach  of  faith  so  highly 
exasperated  the  emperor,  that  he  resolved  on  their  utter  extirpation4  Being  incapa- 
ble of  executing  his  vengeance  in  jj^son,  his  son  Caracalla  led  the  army  to  the  liorth ; 
but  on  the  deam  of  his  lather^  wmch  soon  afterwards  ensued,  he  hastily  concluded  a 

verts  of  the  heists  where  the  Caledaoians  resided,  argue,  1.  That  the  Mseatas  obtained  this  Roman-Brittsh 
name  from  their  frequent  invasions  of  the  Romanized  Britons  within  Valentia,  Meiadi  signifying,  in  the  Bri- 
tish speech,  those  going  out  to  war^— those  taking  the  field.  2*  If  they  had  lived  within  the  wall,  the  Maeatse 
would  have  been  Roman  citizens.  5.  If  they  had  been  Roman  provincials,  the  Caledonians  would  not  have 
assisted  them  against  the  Romans.  4.  If  the  Mseatse  had  been  Roman  citizens,  Virius  Lupus,  Severus'  lieute^ 
nant  in  Britain,  would  not  have  entered  into  a  treaty  with  them. 

*  Dion  Cassius  asserts,  that  Severus,  in  the  skirmishing  warfare  that  the  natives  used  against  him,  and  in 
clearing  away  forests,  levelling  hil}s,  draining  morasses,  and  building  bridges,  lost  at  least  fifty  thousand  men ! 
He  himself  also  was  so  distressed  and  infirm  with  the  gout,  that  he  was  obliged  to  be  carried  in  a  litter ;  but 
nothing  could  make  him  desist  firom  his  enterprize  until  his  enemies  submitted.^— iSier  aUo  Herodian^  Ub,  uL  c.  46. 

t  It  is  generally  supposed  that  Severus  built  a  stone  wall  nearly  parallel  to  Hadrian's  rampart,  and  which 
also  extended  firom  the  Tyne  to  Solway  Firth,  though  it  has  been  doubted  whether  this  erection  was  made 
before  or  after  the  emperor^s  expedition  into  Caledonia.  Some  learned  antiquaries  are,  however,  of  opinion, 
that  Severus  did  not  build  the  wall  usuaUy  attributed  to  him.  Neither  Herodian  nor  Dion  Cassius,  who 
lived  in  the  time  of  Severus,  and  related  his  exploits,  mentions  this  famous  wall.  ,Spartian,  indeed,  assarts 
that  he  built  a  wall  which  was  the  chief  glory  of  his  reign;  but  Eutropius,  Orosius,  Cassiodorus,  Antoninus, 
and  the  author  of  the  Notitia,  refer  only  to  a  wail  cfiMrf.  Boethius  and  Richard  of  Cirencester  mention  Se» 
verus  as  repairing  Hadrian's  vallum.  Gildas  says,'  a  tUme  wtdl  was  built  by  the  Britons,  assisted  by  the 
Romans,  before  that  people  finally  quitted  the  island.  This  account  is  adopted  by  Bede,  who  was  bom  and 
educated  near  this  celebrated  barrier.  The  writer  of  the  history  of  this  county,  in  the  Beauties  of  England 
and  Wales,  whose  knowledge  of  its  antiquities  is  well  known,  after  examining  the  various  authorities  aa  this 
subject,  concludes, ''  that  if  Severus  did  any  thing  to  these  barriers,  it  consisted  in  nothing  more  than  repair- 
ing  or  improving  the  vallum  of  Hadnan/'-^^Harslei/'s  Brit.  Rom,  p,  63.  Chalmers'  Caledonia,  voL  i.  p.  186. 
Bede  HiH.  Ub.  t.  c.  aoL    Beauties,  voL  xii.  part  t.  p.  4— 7* 

X  The  enraged  Severus,  it  is  said,  expressed  his  orders  to  the  soldiers  in  these  lines  of  Homer:—* 

''  Not  one  of  all  the  race,  not  sex  or  age 
Shall  save  a  Trcjan  from  our  boundless  rage; 
Dion  shall  perish  whole  and  bory  all 
Hot  babe^  her  in&nts  at  her  bxewt  shall  fidl." 


S4  ROMAN  HISTORY  OF 

dishonourable  peace»  and  returned  to  the  southern  provinces  of  Britain,  the  more 
effectually  to  prosecute  his  claims  to  the  Roman  empire. 

A  chasm  of  more  than  seventy  years  now  occurs  m  the  Roman  history  of  Britain, 
during  which  the  northern  districts  seem  to  have  enjoyed  an  unusual  degree  of  tran* 
quillity.  Soon  after  Diodesian's  accession  to  the  empire,  Carausius,  a  Menapian  of 
the  meanest  origin,  became  so  formidable  by  the  riches  he  acquired  by  the  command 
he  had  over  the  Roman  navy,  staticmed  at  Boulc^e,  for  the  suppression  of  piracy, 
that  Diodesian  gave  instructions  to  his  colleague,  Maximinian,  to  kill  him.  Apprized 
of  his  impending  fate,  Carausius  boldly  assumed  the  purple,  and  was  acknowledged 
emperor  by  the  legion  and  auxiliary  cohorts  in  Britain.  After  having  worn  it  seven 
years,  his  treacherous  friend,  Alectus,  put  an  end  to  his  life  by  assassination.  The 
usurper  enjoyed  the  purple  dignity  but  three  years,  when  he  was  slain  in  repelling  an 
invasion  of  Constantius.  This  successfid  general,  a  few  months  before  his  death,  was 
declared  emperor,  which  dignity  descended  to  his  son  Constantine. 

806.  Constantine  the  Great  having,  by  force,  money,  or  address,  composed  the  dis- 
orders on  the  northern  frontiers,  entrusted  their  defence  to  an  officer,  styled  Duke  of 
Britain,  who  commanded  14,000  foot  and  900  horse,  which  was  more  than  two-thirds 
of  the  whole  Roman  force  in  the  island.  Having  recruited  his  army  with  a  great 
number  of  British  youths,  Constantine  departed  to  the  continent,  to  pursue  his  pro- 
jected schemes  of  ambition.  About  this  time,  British  bishops  appeared  in  the  council 
of  Aries  ;*  and  it  merits  notice,  that  the  knowledge  of  the  gospel  was  not  confined  to 
the  subjects  of  Rome.  Before  the  dose  of  the  second  century,  it  had  penetrated 
amongst  the  independent  tribes  of  the  north.f 

The  histoipy  of  the  succeeding  emperors  contains  very  few  events  respecting .  Bri- 
tain ;  and  even  these  are  related  m  a  manner  so  vague  ana  unsatisfactory,  that  nothing 
can  be  asserted  Mrith  precision  respecting  the  unconquered  Britons.  From  this  period, 
the  Caledonians,  which  for  two  centuries  had  been  the  terror  of  the  civilized  Britons, 
disappear  from  the  page  oi  history,  and  their  place  is  supplied  by  the  Picts^:]:  who. 

*  The  honour  of  planting  the  first  Christian  church  in  Britain  has  been  severally  ascribed  to  St.  James, 
Simon  Kelotes^  St.  Paul,  Aristobulus,  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  and  missionaries  from  the  east^  sent  by  the  famoua 
St.  Polycarp.  It  is,  however,  sufficiently  evident,  that  the  Christian  religion  was  very  early  introduced  into^ 
Britain.  The  destruction  of  the  Druids,  the  extension  of  the  Roman  arms,  the  depression  of  public  spirit^ 
and  the  introduction  of  new  habits  among  the  provincial  Britons,  were  powerful  causes  in  accelerating  the 
prc^ess  of  the  meek  principles  of  the  gospel.  The  British  Christians  of  this  age  were  not  leas  distinguished 
for  die  poverty  of  their  clergy  than  the  simplicity  of  their  public  worship.  But  they  had  their  share  of  su- 
perstition, and  prodigious  numbers  went  in  pilgrimage  to  Rome.  Nay,  some  of  these  deluded  superstitious 
vagabonds,  says  Dr.  Henry,  who  had  more  strength  or  more  zeal  than  others,  went  as  far  as  Syria,  to  see  the 
famous  self-tormentor,  Simeon  Styletes,  who  lived  56  years  on  the  top  of  a  high  pillar  l^-^Tkeodorel  Phii»,  c.  26^ 

t  Britannorum  inaccessa  Romania  loca,  Christo  vera  subdita.-*-7erfve/.  adver,  Jud,  c.  vu. 

I  It  has  been  doubted  whether  the  Piots  were  of  a  Godiic  er  Celtic  origin.  From  an  obscure  intimation 
given  by  Tacitus,  and  a  conjecture  wfaidi  Bedemodcvtlj  hasarded,  StilliRgHeet,  Fordun,  Boece,  Pinkerton,  and 
some  others,  have  contended  that  the  Picta  were  deso^dbnts  of  Sc^tliiac  or  Gothic  colonists,  who  conquered 
North  Britain  in  some  unknown  jge  bdbre  tbe  CSuistiaii  em.    On  diis  subject  it  may  be  briefly  observed  ;*»• 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  m 

though  clifFeiin^  fi^m  them  in  name,  were  equally  active,  bold,  and  ferocious;  By 
these  nations  the  wall  was  frequently  broken  through,  and  tibe  contiguous  districta 
depopulated  in  the  most  savage  and  unrel^tin^  manner.  The  distmcted  state  of  the 
empire,  and  the  negligence  and  corruption  of  the  officers  entrusted  witii  the  defence 
'  of  Britain,  favoured  these  terrible  ravagers,  who  at  length  seemed  to  threaten  the  ex« 
tinction  of  the  Roman  power  in  this  province.  Alarmed  at  their  dreadftd  success,  the 
emperor  Valentinian  sent  over  Theodosius  with  a  formidable  body  of  troops.  This 
illustrious  commander  repelled  the  invaders,  and  pursued  them  with  unremitting  vi- 

four  until  he  had  recovered  all  the  country  within  the  ramparts  of  Antoninus,  idiich 
e  restored  to  the  Roman  empire. 

879.  Gratian  having  succasded  his  father,  Valentiniaoi,  in  tiie  western  empire,  in^ 
vested  Theodosius,  son  of  the  general  just  mentioned,  with  the  command  of  tne  east- 
ern provinces.  Maximus,  a  Spaniard  by  birth*,  but  then  in  the  .Roman  service  in 
Britain,  aspired  to  the  same  dignity,  and  was  soon  gratified  with  the  purple  by  the 
turbulent  soldiery.  Descending  into  Gaul  with  the  flower  and  strength  of  Rritain  in 
his  ranks,  Gratian  fell,  the  victim  of  his  rebellion ;  but  Theodosius  avenged  the  death 
of  his  unfortunate  patron,  and  the  British  soldiers  did  not  long  survive  the  usurper 
they  befriended.  Maximus  having  despoiled  Britain  of  h»  armies  and  military  ^spr 
paratus,  the  Scots  and  Picts  renewed  theu- incursions  into  Ncxthumbaiand  and  the  i^ 
jacent  country  with  dreadful  success.  UnaUe  to  endure  these  ravages,  the  British 
nation  sent  an  embassy  to  Rome,  desiring  a  military  force,  and  promising  a  faithful 


obedience  to  the  imperial  sceptre.     A  legion  soon  appeared  under  the  command  of 
Stilidbo,  an  able  but  unprincipled  generm,  and  Britain  was  again  reset 


_        _        _  _       rescued  from  the 

sword  of  the  spoilers. 

409.  When  Theodosius  died,  his  youngest  son,  Hoaorius^  possessed  the  western 
empire,  under  the  guardianship  of  Stilicho.  But  the  death  of  his  &ther  was  Hfe  Ag^ 
nal  of  successfid  onset  to  the  innumerable  barbarians  who  were  crowding  to  enoom- 


1.  Dr.  Johnson  jndidotisly  remarks^  that  the  nmiUtade  and  dcDhraCion  of  langua^  often  aupl^y  the  only 
avidenoe  of  ancient  mlgnition  and  the  genealogy  of  mankinds— J9bm^^#  Life,  voL  «.  p.  498.  2.  PMi,  in  the 
British  apeecfa,  aignifiea,  ''  those  diat  lone  out  or  exposed— the  people  of  the  open  country/'  also^  ''those  who 
aoout— those  who  lay  waste ;"  the  tk  of  the  British  are  expressed  by  the  ci  of  the  Boman.— -OfrenV  Diet.  3. 
The  names  of  the  Pictish  kings  are  only  significant  in  the  British  language.<-T/iuie«^#  Crit.  Essa^,  v.  up.  296\ 
i.  There  is  no  trape^of  GotJiicism  in  the  topography  of  North  Britain  until  after  the  arrival  of  the  Angloe* 
Saxons  in  the  fifth  century.— CAo^mer/  Cakdan.  lib.uc.u  u.  5.  The  hoiguage  of  the  Picts  and  the  ^eltio 
Britons  was  the  same.— FTeibA  Arok.  vol  up.  150.  6.  The  leUgion  and  usages  of  the  Picts  and  the  aboriginal 
Britons  were  the  aame^Kingt  Mom  Antiqua,  /».  ISl.  7*  There  does  not  exist  any  historical  evidence  of  the 
mignition  to,  and  conquest  of  North  Britain  by  GQthic  ad veqturers  before  the  appearance  of  the  Picts.— Bt^« 
ton^s  Hist.  Euay  on  Scotch  Song*.  8.  The  orator  Bumenius^  who  first  mentioned  the  Picti  in  297,  uses  the 
significant  expression^  CqMones  ainque  Picti;  the  Caledonians  and  other  Picts.  Ammianus  Marcellinus  also 
spdce  of  the  Caledonians  and  Picts  as  being  the  same  people. — Ub.  27>  c.  J.  9.  Beside  the  erudite  writers 
quoted,  Camden,  Selden,  Spee4,  Lloyd,  Burton,  Du  Chesne,  Bochart,  Sir  William  Temple,  Hqme^,  Whitaker, 
Henry,  &c.  have  concurred  in  cpiniona  that  the  Picts  were  merely  the  Caledonians  under  a  new  name  ind  % 
pewaspecL 

*  Maximus  is  called  a.  Briton  by  Socrates,  ▼.  11,  and  Gildas,  c.  10.     He,  howev^^  married  the  d^ughteip 
of  a  British  prince,  firom  which  circumstance  he  probably  derived  hi?  popularity. 
TOl,  I,— (2)  G 


«©  '  HOM AW  HISTORY  OF 


the  BimuDiJO^Qaslu;  mA  ihe  lagiMi^  wMch  had  been  &ta(tio^eii  to  guard  the  waU 
of  ^Btkinii;  ims  jEMBunaned  t^  Ite]y»  to  oppose  the  darus^  ^Mai^e  and  hi£  GoUuc  warrioprs* 
.'The  vn^d  fiwoesses  of  tiiie  nortfaem  tribes  on  the  contincait  induced  the  Roman 
troops  thiU:  had  retained  to  Britain  to  create  an  emperor  for  th^nselves.  Marcus  wd 
Gbatuin  iMse  suooeM^ely  choeen  and  deposed ;  when,  induced  1;^  the  ftatterin|r  name, 
Mole  Britisli  soldief}^ 'seketed  <me  Constantine  from  the  ranks,  and  deeorated  \am  witb 
thedmpernl  gaamentB ;  nor  does  he  seem  to  haVe  been  %mworthy  of  h^  Citivtiw ;  for, 
orgaaiijEtng  an  army  of  iurdy  Brkons,  he  Iwded  oli  the  eontin^pt,  defeated  the  t^rribl^ 
barliariaaB^  reduoed  £!gaRil  aoid  Spain  to  his  obedience,  and  eaus^  Honoru,L3  to  aeknowr 
ledge  his  dimi^.  But  Gerontius,  one  of  his  principal  i^iceps,  abandoned  his  interests^ 
ana'ciii9vatea  a  mend  to  detionme  him.  He  pisnsued  \a&  new  jpuroose  with  alacrity, 
ahd  >besieged  Vienna  >and  idew  his  master^s  son.  The  troops  of  Honorius  profited  by 
tke  ffaarfel,  and  desivoyed  the  rompetfttion.  Constantine  was  taken  at  Axles,  and 
tierontius  was  piutsaed  and  .destroyed  on  the  eoniuiea  of  Spain. 

Tbe  remaintng  psrtiaiilars  relatmg  ifeo  the  histoiy  of  the  British  people  until  die  era 
of '1^  fiaxioai  invasion^  are  derived  fmm  vcfy  unsatis&Qtory  autiierities.  According 
to  iiie  statement  of  Qiidas,  tiie  Brkiah  pravindals  now  returned  to  tbe  obedience  of 
4ihe  emperor  Honorius,  who  being  unable  to  gandson  the  northern  barrier,  4iie  Scots 
€md'Pict»  nidied  forvarde  widi  eagerness.  But  tiie  Romanised  Britons,  with  the  asr 
distance  of  the  domicffialied  Roman  vetemns,  sujaoQasfuJly  of^iosed  tl^  advance  of  the 
nbrtfaem  tribes.  These  hardy  .and  neoessitous  wamon^  however,  repeated  Uaeir  irrup- 
tions;;  and  Honorins  being  still  inoapalde  of  j-endernig^assistanoe,  left  the  provinmb 
iOJdefiend  tbcoasel^sfL  TJie  ginater  part  .of  the  British  mmians  now  jetinqui^he^  their 
lands,  repaired  to  the  continent,  and  left  the  Britons  an  easy  prey  to  their  bwbarous 
aiaaikaits.  Honoiins  at  length  listened  ;to  ^eir  sup^lieatibona^  and. in  the  year  416, 
«iitja;l^^n,  wUbch  isompdlm  the  Soots  and  Picts  to  retiie  with  preoipitotion  and 
•geeot  loss.  Xbe  triumphant  veterans  tilien  refcumed  to  the  continent,  but  tlieir  depas- 
ture was  the  signal  for  fresh  and  more  dreadful  commotions.  The  British  ambassa- 
dors now  approached  the  emperor  witiii  aflSeetii^  tokens  of  huimliaticm  and  distoess. 
'Their  entreaties  met  with  attention,  and  a  legion,  under  the  command  of  iGallio,  was 
'sent  to  their  aid.  The  straggling  ptedatory  bands  were  unable  to  eope  witii  <lie  Ho- 
man  veterans,  and  fled  hi  dismay  to  their  woods  and  mountainous  fastnesses.  The 
Romans  having  cleared  the  country,  exhorted  the  Britons  to  emulate  the  valour  of 
their  enemies,  and  assisted  them  in  building  a jffrwi  ttone  waU,  from  one  sea  to  the  other, 
where  Severus  had  formerly  a  vallimi.  Having  performed  these  fii«idly  offices,  the 
'Romans  departed,  after  a  stay  of  nearly  two  years  in  Britain. 

ThQ  learned  Mr.  Turner,  in  the  history  of  the  Angjo-Saxons,  takes  a  very  dilTerent 
view  of  the  affairs  of  this  important  era.  According  to  this  writer  the  Britons  were 
so  far  from  renewing  a  timid  allegiance  to  Honorius,  after  the  death  of  Constantine, 
.thalv  "  in  this  extremity,  they  displayed  a  magnanimous  character ;  they  remembered 
the  ancient  independence  of  the  island,  and  uieir  brave  anciestors,  who  still  lived  en- 
nobled in  tbe  verses  of  their  bards ;  they  armed  themselves,  tlirew  off  the  foreign 
yoke,  deposed  the  imperial  magistrates,  proclaimed  their  insular  independence,  and, 
.with  the  successful  valour  of  youthful  liberty  and  endangered  existence,  they  drove 
the  fierce  invaders  (barbarians,  stimulated  to  the  invasion  of  Gaul  and  Britain  by  the 
traitorous  Gerontius),  from  their  cities.'* 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  27 

This  writer,  after  justly  noticing  that  the  narrative  of  the  "  querulous'*  Gildas,  con- 
sists chiefly  of  declamation,  proceeds  to  hold  up  to  ridicule  the  absurd  caricature  which 
Gildas  has  drawn  of  the  British  nation,  and  which  has  been  so  implicitly  copied. 

'*  When  the  Romans  had  departed,  according  to  Gildas,  the  tetngreges^  tne  hideous 
herds  of  Scots  and  Picts,  difienng  in  manners,  out  alike  in  their  avidity  to  shed  blood ; 
Xheitfurciferos  vultuf^  ^^V  vjl^iiifus  fictxpi^rtisafees  juote  ooyei^ed  with  hair  than  their 
bodies  witn  garments ;  these  men,  emerging  from  their  currachs,  confidently  seize  all 
the  northern  and  extreme  part  of  the  island  up  to  the  wall :  on  this  was  the  garrison ; 
a  set  of  men  slow  to  fight,  imable  to  fly ;  silly  beings  with  trembling  hearts,  who  on 
their  stupid  seats  wasted  away  their  flesh  day  and  ni^t.  In  the  mean  time,  the  hooked 
darts  thrown  uf  from  chains  j^ej^e  inGe^s^i4»l^  whicjii  t];ienu^  loisei^bleici^zens,  drawn 
from  the  walls,  wjcise  dashed  upon  the  ^ound.  What  a  picture  £or  Hogarth  to  exhibit ! 
A  set  of  hairy  half-naked  savages,  gnm  as  any  thief  taker,  throwing  up  their  chained 
weapons  incessantly  without  the  waU,  while  on  this  side  sat  a  parcel  of  timid,  trembling, 
consumptive  wretches,  like  so  many  shaking  mandarins,  waitmg  stupidly  for  the  hooks 
to  rear  them  into  the  air,  and  to  mmx  tb^gi  <tfi  the  ground.  Shall  we  honour  this 
with  the  name  of  history  ?" 

We,  however,  have  no  direct  evidence  of  the  defection  of  the  Britons  from  their 
aUe^ance  to  the  Roman  emperor.  On  the  contrary,  considering  their  peaceful  habits, 
their  ignorsoif^  of  mjj&tary  tiaotiosj  fik'^  dangei:9us  ^pit^tiqii,  pjel}letu£^ly  framed  4^ 
piratical  invades,  ^i^d  the  £^ix)doii^  ioe^iH^on^  pf  ^^  nG(ih&^  tribes,  an<jl  tlieii*  y^H- 
ous  motives  for  desjric^  a  cmiti^ue^L  cqpsmeqtsi^  -wiU;!  a  qulit^^  jj^egfde,  to  whpm  they 
were  attached  by  ti^s  c^  intexeai  m^  intennjm^dage,  it  ^ppcy^s  i^oise  jp^robpble  thirt  they 
j^ere  abandoned  to  ;their  alBietioi)  mtha  tibuo^  ^af;  il^ey  seoede^  in  tri^unph.  In^dLeeii 
Mr  Turner  acknowle^es  th^t  particular  ^stricte  may  have  fought  aid  Qf  the  'S(,op:^if^ 
but  icontends  th^  such  instances  are  not  applicjable  to  :tiie  whole  island. 

It  is  generally  ^uppots^d  that  the  RcHmws  finally  qiBltisd  Britain  ii)  tl^e  year  of  ^e 
Christian  era  446,  which  was  501  years  after  their  first  descent  ,^pofn  the  island,  and 
AOS  yeacts  afta-  their  first  settl^nent  in  tbe  eounby . 

The  events  that  immediately  succeeded  the  abcUcation  of  the  Romans  are  involved 
in  obscurity.  The  dangers  which  surrounded  the  abandcmed  Britons  seem,  however, 
to  have. aroused  their  ei)iergies,,and  ^  d^rn^^ation  W9S  evii^ced  to  defend  their  coun- 
try. But  the  same  tuibulent,  ur^scible,  and  unyielding  disposMfipn  which  has  always 
distinguisbed  the  Celtic  race,  was  again  displi^^y eioL  Civil  discord  soon  peFva4ed  w 
island,  which  was  divided  into  thirty  independent  republics,  besides  a  great  cluster  of 
regal  diisf s,  who  ea^riy  ccnitended  for  the  mastery.  fiTxirthumberland  was  thra  govern- 
ed  by  a  kuig,  as  w^  as  tlie  adjoining  eounitries.  J^  wMlellie  strength  of  the  country 
was  wasted  in  dvU  oonfliists,  the  Picts  and  Soots  defeated  the  separate  aiinies  of  the  petty 
chiefs  who  opposed  them,  and  desokted  the  northern  b(»?ders.  During  the^  disas- 
trous scenes  of  quarrelsome  ambition,  a  report  was  propagated  ihait  t^e  Scots  and  Piote 
were  advancing  for  another  attack.  Awed  by  the  impending  evil,  the  turbulent  chi^ 
met  in  council,  to  concert  a  plan  for  repelling  and  preventing  such  frequent  and  fatal 
invasions.  Vortigem,  a  powerful  chieftain,  recommended  the  employment  of  a  band 
of  Saxon  warriors,  and  to  his  advice  the  infatuated  chiefs  acceded. 


ANGLO-SAXON  HISTORY 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


JKING  the  decline  of  the  Homan  empire,  the  Saxons,  a  Gothic 
tribe  that  inhabited  the  north-eastern  parts  of  Germany,  had  main- 
tained a  course  of  piratical  depredations  injurious  to  the  maritime 
aoaets  of  Britain,  and  in  the  fourth  coitury  uieir  numbers  and  power 
were  augmented  by  a  confederation  of  many  small  states,  whose  no- 
..is  were  lost  in  the  Saxon  name.    But  the  only  allies  of  the  Saxons 


connected  with  the  history  of  this  county,  were  the  Jute*  and  Angles ;  the  fcmner  of 
which  inhabited  South  Jutland,  while  the  latter  resided  in  the  district  of  Anglen,  in 
the  duchy  of  Selswick*. 

The  maritime  situation  which  the  Saxons  occupied ;  the  encreasing  weakness  of 
Rome ;  and  the  successful  adventures  of  the  Francs,  generated  and  nourished  their 
eagerness  for  piratical  enterprize.  Such  was  their  skillor  prodigaUty  of  life,  that  they 
traversed  the  British  ocean  in  light  skifis  framed  of  oziers,  and  covered  with  skins 
sewed  togetherf.  They  fearlessly  launched  their  predatory  vessds,  and  sufiin^d  the 
wind  to  blow  them  to  any  fca^gn  coast,  indiff»ent  to  the  result.     They  even  pre- 

*  The  reader  who  is  desiroiu  of  further  infoniUktianoD  this  «»  of  our  national  and  local  faistotf,  ii  rcforcd 
to  the  History  ot  the  Ai^lo-Sazons.  by  the  aUe  and  judideua  Mr.  Turner,  to  whose  reaeardies  the  writer  is 
greatly  indebted.  The  Bevercnd  John  lingard  has  also  suoceasfuUy  intestlgated  this  memcrable  period,  in 
hii  Andquitiet  of  the  Anglo-Saxoo  church.  His  History  of  Ei^land  may  likewise  be  perused  with  advatv 
tags.  Maay  critical  remarks  on  the  Saxon  geogri^y  of  this  island  are  presented  in  Mr  Whitaker'a  History 
of  Manchester. 

+  In  the  fifth  century  the  Saxon  chieb,  or  keels,  or  ships  of  war,  bad  assumed  a  more  ftvmidable  appeer- 
anoe,  and  were  ctmstnictad  of  more  solid  and  lasting  materiala.  The  Saxons  of  this  period  calculated  their 
force  by  Mpt,  and  from  several  passages  in  the  Andent  Chronidea  it  haa  been  jofiaTed,  ijbat  «adt  sh^  car* 
ried  eigfa^  warriors.    Sede  1. 15.    GUdat  c.  xxiH. 


warriors,    M 


ANGLO-SAXON  HISTORY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND.  29 

ferred  embarking  in  a  storm  that  might  shipwreck  them,  because  at  such  a  season 
their  victims  would  be  unguarded.  Their  whole  time  was  alternately  devoted  to  in- 
dolence and  to  rapine.  To  earn  by  labour  what  might  be  acquired  by  force,  they 
deemed  unworthy  the  spirit  of  a  freeman.  They  were  as  dreadful  for  their  ^gantic 
stature  and  strength,  ss  for  their  vehemence  and  valour.  After  a  successfm  enter- 
prize  the  tenth  ^  their  wretched  captives  were  massacred  as  the  devoted  victims  of 
their  terrible  superstition.  The  habitual  ferocity  of  these  adventurers  explains  im- 
pressively the  peculiar  horror  which  was  every  where  excited  by  their  sudden  and  un- 
expected aggressions.  The  emperor  Julian  pronounced  them  the  most  formidable  of 
all  the  nations  on  the  shores  of  the  western  ocean*. 

The  first  band  of  Saxons  which,  agreeably  to  the  coundl  of  Vortigem,  was  invited  to 
Britain,  was  commanded  by  Henrist,  a  reputed  descendant  of  Woden,  the  god  of  warf, 
and  who  had  been  bred  in  the  Roman  armies.  His  foDowers  were  few,  but  their 
skilful  movements  and  irresistible  attacks  quickly  discomfited  the  northern  hordes, 
and  the  ScotsJ  were  scattered  in  every  direction  from  Lincolnshire  to  th^  banks  of  the 

*  Jul,  Orat  1.  Sidon,  viii.  6.  The  ferocity  of  the  Saxon  character  would  seem  to  suit  bettev  the  dark 
and  melancholy  phyaiognomies  of  Asia  and  Afirica,  than  the  fair,  pleasing  countenances  by  which  our  ances* 
tors  are  described.  But  there  is  no  colour^  climate^  nor  constitution^  that  governs  the  moral  diaracter  so  per* 
manently  as  the  good  or  evil  habits  and  discipline  to  which  it  is  subjected.  The  Saxons^  however^  possessed 
the  germs  of  many  amiable  qualities.  Time  mellowed  their  barbarous  ^erceness  into  a  firm  and  temperate 
courage,  while  from  their  ardent  temper  arose  an  expansive  genius,  which,  though  sometimes  ISuitastio,  was 
eminently  serviceable  to  morals  and  mt^nners. 

t  The  mythology  of  the  Saxons  is  interwoven  with  our  language.  From  the  objects  of  their  worship  the 
days  of  our  week  have  derived  their  names.  The  first  and  second  they  dedicated  to  the  Sun  and  Moon-^- 
hence  Sunday  and  Monday ;  the  third  and  fourth  were  dedicated  to  Tuisco  and  Woden— -hence  Tuisco's-day 
and  Woden's-day ;  the  fifth,  sixth,  and  seventh,  in  like  manner,  to  Thor,  Frea,  and  Seator— hence  Thors»day, 
Freas-day,  and  Seater-day.    Brand, 

X  The  Scots  had  now  assumed  an  important  character  on  the  busy  stage  of  our  island.  Their  annals  and 
their  origin,  which  have  been  much  disputed,  merit  some  notice.  The  Scoticag  gentes,  or  Scotch  people,  were 
first  inentioned  by  Porphry  about  the  end  of  the  third  century.  It  appears  they  were  originally  Gaelic  Celts, 
who  in  early  ages  migrated  from  the  western  shores  of  Britain  into  Ireland.  After  having  long  made  preda* 
tory  incursions  upon  the  Roman  territories  on  the  south-westof  Scotland,  they  settled  in  Kintyre;  and  half  a 
century  after  the  conquest  of  Northumberland  by  the  Saxons,  they  had  colonized  Argyle,  when  a  bloody 
struggle  of  340  years  ensued  between  them  and  the  natives,  which  terminated  in  the  extinction  of  the  Fictish 
government,  and  the  union  of  the  Picts  and  Scoto-Irish,  under  Keneth  Mac  Alpin,  in  843.  But  the  united 
kingdom  was  not  mentioned  under  the  Latin  designation  of  Scoiia,  or  the  Saxon  name  of  Scotland,  until  near 
a  century  after  this  epoch.  With  the  predominance  of  the  Soots,  the  Scoto-Irish,  Gaelic,  or  Earse  dialect, 
came  into  use  instead  of  the  Cambro-British,  or  native  speech,  but  was  gradually  superseded  in  the  Lowlands 
by  the  Anglo-Saxon.  The  use  of  the  Cambro-British  is  still  preserved  in  Wales^  and  the  Gaelic  in  Ireland 
and  the  Highlands  of  Scotland.  The  appellation  Sceiljs  or  Scot,  signifies  in  the  Gaelic  dispersed  or  scaiitDed, , 
and  was  characteristic  of  their  passion  for  enterprize,  Claudian,  Orasius,  Gildas,  and  Bede,  consideEed 
Ireland  mm  the  proper  country  of  the  Scots.  Indeed,  during  the  middle  ages,  Ireland  was  g^ierally  known 
by  the  name  Scotland.  These  fiu!ts  are  historically  demonstrated  by  Camden;  Epistols^  ed.  I691,  p.  360; 
gnd  by  Whitaker ;  Genuine  |iist  .of  Britons^  p.  283.  .   ; 

VOLr  It  U 


30  ANGLO  .  SAXON  HISTORY  OF 

Wear.  The  Saxon  leaders  observing  in  this  expedition  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and 
the  weakening  dissentions  of  the  natives,  conceived  more  lofty  projects  of  ambition, 
which  led  them  to  encourage  every  band  of  Saxon  rovers  to  unite  with  their  fortunes. 

The  ambitious  views  of  the  Saxons  soon  became  evident ;  but  the  Britons  made  an 
obstinate  though  unsuccessfid  resistance.  The  bloody  struggle  lasted  upwards  of  a 
hundred  years ;  but  the  civil  feuds  and  warring  interests  of  the  Britons  at  length  en- 
siired  their  subjection  to  their  fierce  and  numerous  invaders*.  Among  the  heroes  who 
successively  appeared  in  the  defence  of  the  Britons,  Arthur  is  the  most  famous  for 
the  boldness  and  success  of  his  achievements.  But  tbe  rays  of  light  are  small  and 
faint  that  lead  us  through  this  dark  and  dreary  period  of  time ;  we  only  know,  that 
in  a  slow  progression  of  conquest,  the  nations  comprized  under  the  title  of  Anglo- 
Saxons,  were  established  in  the  island  under  eight  dififerent  governments,  which  have 
been  improperly  denominated  the  Saxon  heptarchy. 

In  the  year  454,  Octa,  the  brother  of  Hengist,  in  defiance  of  the  natives,  settled  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Tyne,  and  then  deared  the  country  of  the  Britons  as  far  as  the 
Humber.  This  conquest  he  and  his  successors  held  as  a  fee  of  the  crown  of  Kent, 
which  had  been  assumed  by  Hengistf .  The  Picts  joined  the  northern  Saxons  in  at- 
tacking the  indignant  Britons,  who  were  now  aided  by  the  Scots.  The  tide  of  conquest 
continued  to  fluctuate  till  the  year  547,  when  Ida,  an  Anglo-Saxon,  who  commanded 
forty  ships,  landed  at  Flamborough.  This  prince,  like  the  other  Saxon  monarchs, 
derived  his  descent  from  Woden.  After  many  severe  conflicts,  he  succeeded  in  driv- 
ing the  Northumbrian  Britons  from  the  vicinity  of  the  coast.  His  dominions  con- 
sisted  solely  or  chiefly  of  the  country  called  Bemicia,  which  was  the  Saxon  name  of 
that  district  which  lies  north  of  the  river  Tyne,  or  wall  of  Severus,  and  which  extend- 
ed, during  some  periods  of  the  Saxon  power,  as  far  as  the  Edinburgh  Frith, 

This  first  king  of  Bemicia  erected  the  fortress  of  Bambrough,  opposite  the  Fam 
Islands,  in  a  situation  remarkably  strong  and  conspicuous ;  and,  m  honour  of  his  queen, 
Bibba,  gave  it  the  name  of  BibbanburghJ.  Ida  held  the  crown  independent  erf  any 
.  other  potentate,  but  he  firmly  maintained  the  alliance  which  his  nation  had  made  with 
the  Picts.  His  reign  was  full  of  warfare,  for  the  Cimbri,  Scots,  and  the  adjacent  Britons, 
jmned  in  frequent  incursions  on  his  territories,  ravaging  his  frontiers  by  flying  parties, 
and,  after  marking  their  hasty  passage  with  blood  and  rapine,  retreated  again'  with 
equal  rapidity  to  their  impenetrable  festnessess  in  the  mountains  and  forests. 

Tiie  patriotic  Britons  who  struggled  with  Ida  and  his  Angles  in  these  northern  dis- 
tricts, engross  the  largest  share  of  the  bardic  lay.    The  provinces  north  of  the  Humber, 

*  The  British  writars  have  invented  a  fable  to  account  for  the  first  settlement  of  the  Saxons  without  the 
admission  of  conquest.  Hengist  appmnted  a  meeting  of  peace— weapons  were  not  to  intrude.  The  perfidi- 
ous Saxon  counselled  hi&  fnends  to  oonoeid  their  swords  under  their  garments^  and^  at  his  signal,  to  use  them 
against  the  Britons.  The  conference  began ;  the  horns  of  festivity  went  round ;  when,  at  the  terrible  excla- 
mation of  "  Nemeth  yare  feax,"  (draw  your  daggers),  out  rushed  the  Saxon  weapons ;  the  disarmed  Britons 
fell  before  the  execrable  assassins,  and  three  hundred  of  the  bravest  chiefs  are  stated  to  have  perished.  But 
there  is  no  olear  evidence  to  support  this  pretended  event,  which  has  escaped  the  notice  of  Gildas,  a  British 
and  almost  a  contemporary  writer. 

t  Rapin  I.  249.    Seldon  Tit  Hon.  511.  it  Bisde  iii.  6.  Chnm.  Sax.  p.  ig. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  31 

Deira,  and  Bemida,  were  possessed  by  three  sova^igng^  who  were  bards,  and  whose 
memories  have  been  consecrated  in  imperishable  verse.  Ida  is  chatitcterized  with  the 
appellation  of  Flamzwyn,  or  Flame^bearer,  an  epithet  of  dismal  sound,  as  it  may  imply 
the  devastations  which  accompanied  his  progress.  On  a  Saturday  he  hastened  and 
spread  his  lemons  to  surround  the  chiefs  of  Grozen  and  Reged.  He  prestunptuously 
demanded  siwmission  and  hostages.  The  gallent  Owen  exclaimed,  ''  Rather  let  the 
gash  appear ;"  and  Chenau  declared  he  wouUl  be  a  lion  hewed  with  a  hatchet  before  he 
would  give  hostage  to  any.  Urien  indulged  their  ardour ;  he  commanded  the  banners 
to  ascend  the  mountains ;  the  streams  re<&ened ;  the  ground  was  strewed  with  blood ; 
but  the  event  of  the  struggle  is  not  clearly  expressed. 

The  energetic  genius  of  Aneurin*,  the  Northumbrian  bard  of  splendid  song,  has 
recorded  another  manly  stnu^^le.  The  British  force  was  a  confederation  of  the  princes 
between  the  wall  and  the  Fnth  of  Clydef .  Three  hundred  and  sixty-tl^ee  of  the 
warriors  wore  the  oolden  torques.  But  alas !  the  sweet  mead  was  too  profusely  quaf- 
fed ;  Uie  carousal  wnich  should  have  awaited  the  vict(»y  unhappily  preceded  the  battle. 
The  consequence  was  dreadful ;  the  sword  of  the  Angles  mowed  down  the  inebriated 
warriors.  Of  the  three  hundred  and  sixty-three  noUes  who  rushed  to  the  conflict, 
three  only  survived  it.  This  succession  of  conflicts  is  sufficient  to  refute  the  opinion 
of  the  cowardice  and  weakness  of  the  Northumbrian  Britons.  Like  their  fathers  of 
old,  they  were  vanquished  in  detail. 

560.  Having  successfully  defended  the  intimity  of  his  kingdom  for  twelve  years, 
Ida  was  slain  in  battle  by  Owen,  the  gallant  Briton.  He  was  succeeded  in  his  king- 
dom by  Adda,  who  reigned  seven  years,  during  which  period  ^Ua,  one  of  the  chi^-* 
tains  who  came  over  with  Ida,  acquired  the  sovereignty  of  the  province  of  Deira. 
The  reigns  of  the  five  immediate  successors  of  Adcm  were  short,  and  without  any 

*  Aneurin's  noble  heroic  poem  on  this  important  event  is  printed  in  the  Welsh  Archaiology,  (vol.  v.  1) 
with  another  oompositioii  by  the  same  princel  j  poet,  entitled  '  Odes  to  the  Months.'  After  Aneurin  lost  his 
poBOcamons  in  Nortliumberland,  some  old  documents  and  traditions  say^  that  he  took  refuge  in  the  famous 
monastry  ntutus^  in  the  country  of  the  Silures,  where  he  died  about  A.  D.  570.  Besides  Aneurin,  TaHesin, 
Merlin,  and  Llwarch,  were  all  British  poets,  who  deplored  in  sublime  strains  the  misfortunes  of  their  coun- 
try. .  Europe  in  that  age  could  not  supply  such  poets,  either  for  invention  and  energy,  or  fw  elegance  and 
ridmess  of  language. 

t  When  the  Britcms  were  compelled  to  resign  Northumbria  to  the  warlike  Saxons,  they  retired  westward, 
and  joined  the  Selgovs,  the  Novates,  and  the  Danmii,  which,  with  the  Otadini  and  Gadeni  tribes,  had  formed 
the  Romanized  province  of  Valentia.  These  Britons  now  erected  a  kingdom  called  Cambrence,  or  Cumbrense, 
but  oftener  the  kingdom  of  Strathcluyd.  It  extended  from  the  Irthing,  the  Eden,  and  die  Solway,  on  the 
south ;  to  the  Loch  Lomond  on  the  north ;  and  from  the  Irish  Sea  and  die  Frith  of  Clyde,  Which  washed  its 
western  shores,  it  ranged  eastwards  to  the  limits  of  the  Merse  and  Lothian.  Dunbarton  was  the  capital. 
Notwithstanding  the  perpetual  attacks  of  the  Picts,  Saxons,  and  Scoto-Irish,  this  British  kingdom  maintained 
its  political  existence  for  some  time  after  the  Piciish  government  had  fallen.  The  Calrail,  or  Pictwork  Diiek, 
which  extends  firom  the  Peel  Fell  in  Northumberland,  to  Galashiels,  a  distance  of  45  miles,  is  supposed  to 
have  been  raised  by  the  fugitive  Britons  of  Northumberland,  as  a  line  of  defence  against  die  invading  Saxons. 
It  appears  to  have  been  a  vast  fosse  at  least  26  feet  broad,  having  a  rampart  on  either  side  oiit  from  eight  to 
ten  feet  high.     Calrail,  in  the  British  language^  means  The  Partition  tf  Defence. 


32  ANGLO-SAXON  HISTORY  OF 

■ 

events  that  are  marked  in  history ;  but  the  spirit  of  Ida  still  actuated  the  Anglo- 
Saxons  of  the  north. 

In  593,  Ethelfrith,  simamed  the  Fierce^  the  grandson  of  Ida,  mounted  the  Berni- 
cian  throne.  This  restless  and  ambitious  prince  extended  his  conquests  much  farther 
than  any  of  his  predecessors.  He  prosecuted  a  successfid  war  against  the  Britons  of 
Wales,  and  succeeded  in  adding  several  extensive  districts  to  his  dominions,  Aidan» 
king  of  the  Scots,  jealous  of  so  formidable  a  neighbour,  advanced  with  a  powerful 
army,  to  repress  the  encroachments  of  Ethelfrith.  The  hostile  army  met  in  dreadful 
connict  at  I)egsa*.  The  brother  of  Ethelfrith  perished,  with  all  his  followers ;  but 
nearly  the  whole  Scottish  army  were  immolated  to  the  vengeance  of  the  Northum- 
brian  Saxons,  and  Aiden,  with  only  a  few  attendants,  narrowly  escaped.  The  over- 
throw c#Ae  Scots  was  so  terrible,  that  for  more  than  a  century  they  dared  not  meet 
the  Northumbrians  in  battle. 

Dissatisfied  with  his  inherited  Bemida,  and  his  trophies  in  battle,  Ethelfrith  in- 
vaded Deira,  to  which  Edwin,  the  son  of  Ella,  at  the  age  of  three  years,  had  succeeded, 
and  by  expelling  the  little  infant,  and  espousing  his  sister,  he  united  the  two  crowns, 
and  became  king  of  Northumbria.  The  mfant  Edwin,  being  hospitably  protected  by 
the  king  of  North  Wales,  the  Northumbrian  king  determined  to  be  revenged.  He 
reached  Chester,  surrounded  Iw  victory.  Apart  from  the  forces  of  the  Welsh,  he 
perceived  the  pious  monks  of  Bangor  pra3ang  for  the  success  of  their  countrymen. 
"  If  they  pray,"  exclaimed  the  pagan,  "  they  also  fi^ht  against  lis."  He  instantly 
poured  upon  them  the  first  of  the  battle,  and  felt  no  disgrace  at  consigning  1200  de- 
fenceless priests  and  devout  men  to  death.  Appalled  by  their  fate,  the  Cambro-Bri- 
tons  wavered  and  fled.  Ethelfrith  obtained  a  decisive  conquest ;  ancient  Bangor  itself 
feU  into  his  hands,  and  was  demolished ;  the  noble  monastery  w^  leveUea  to  the 
earth,  and  its  vast  library,  the  coDection  of  ages,  the  repository  of  the  most  precious 
monuments  of  the  ancient  Britons,  was  consumed. 

The  son  of  Ella,  who  was  incessantly  harassed  by  the  jealousy  of  Ethelfrith,  wan- 
dered through  the  different  principalities  of  the  Britons  and  Saxons.  In  his  maturer 
age  he  procured  an  asylum  in  the  court  of  Redwald,  king  of  the  East  Angles.  Im- 
patient that  Edwin  should  be  alive,  Ethelfrith  sent  messages,  with  promised  presents, 
to  Hedwald,  requiring  him  to  surrender  the  youth,  with  an  haughty  menace  of  inevi- 
table chastisement  if  the  demand  was  refused.  Redwald's  fears  predominated,  and  he 
determined  to  make  Edwin  the  victim  of  his  tranquillity.  Edwin  knew  his  inten- 
tions, but  refused  to  shew  an  ungrateful  mistrust,  and  resolved  rather  to  perish  with 
honour  than  to  continue  a  friendless  fugitive.  His  magnanimity  was  rewarded,  for 
Redwald's  mind  was  enlightened  by  nie  exalted  feelings  of  his  queen — "  A  king 
should  not  sell  a  distressed  friend,  nor  violate  his  faith  for  gold ;  no  ornament  is  so 
ennobling  as  good  faith."  The  soul  of  Redwald  kindled  with  the  noble  sentiment, 
he  abandoned  his  perfidious  purpose,  and  resolved  to  keep  sacred  the  duties  of  hospi^ 
tality. 

Redwald,  placing  his  hopes  of  success  in  a  sudden  aiid  vigorous  attack,  led  forward 
his  army  with  great  expedition.  Ethelfrith,  with  a  very  inferior  force,  was  hastening 
to  surprize  his  enemy.    On  the  banks  of  the  Idel,  in  Nottinghamshire,  the  hostile 

^  Some  imagine  Degsa  to  be  Dalston,  near  Carlisle  j  but  others  contend  tbat  it  is  Dawston^  newr  Jedburglw 


)^01tTHUMBB|ULAKD.  93 

I 

armif»  m^t  The  expmeneed  valour  of  the  Northumbrians  auppUed  the  di$rarity  of 
numbers,  «nd  bolanced  the  contai^  The  £^  AngUans^  advanced  in  three  oivi^mw 
one  of  these  Rainer,  the  sod  of  Redwald,  led.  The  aneient  foartunci  of  Ethelfrith  be? 
ftiended  hun,  and  the  prince  and  his  warrknrs  were  anmhilat^.  Jledwald  was  stimu- 
lated to  n)Me  determined  exertions ;  he  atill  outnumbered  his  opponent,  and  his  other 
divisionjs  were  finn.  £thelfnth,  unused  to  such  resistance,  and  imptftient  fof  tlu^ 
events  ru^ed  f oiwwd,  and  fell  on  the  bodies  of  those  he  had  slain.  Edwin  signalissed' 
himself  in  the  contest,  and  tiie  Northumbrians  weve  cmupletely  routed.  The  sons  of 
the  sbin  usuiper  fled  to  the  Scots,  by  wfa<Hn  diey  were  received  ai|d  mitertainiBd  ¥dth^ 
mudi  hospitality. 

Supported  by  the  arms  pf  Redwald,  Edwin  entered  the  capital  of  Northumb^land, ; 
and  in  the  year  617  assumed  the  diadem.    Possessed  o£  a  ndiile  and  intrepid  spirit,, 
and  endowed  with  the  wisdom  of  a  varied  experience,  he  reigned  with  advantage  to 
his  fl/rree  subjects,  and  his  name  has  jusdy  been  invested  with  splimdour.  > 

Cwich^Un,  of  Wessex,  a  prince  of  a  dark  and  jealous  mind,  bdield  with  envy  the 
growing  power  of  Edwin,  but  not  daring  to  meet  him  in  battle,  he  prepaised  to  remove* 
him  by  assassination.  Eumer,  in  quality  of  an  envoy  from  Cwichelm,  repaired  to  the 
royal  dtv  on  the  Derwmt,  ahd  demtnlded  an  audience  ot  Edwm.  He  began  the  de-* 
livery  of  a  fictidbus  embassy,  in  liie  midst  ci  which  he  suddenly  denched  a  poisoned 
dagger,  and  rushed  upon  the  king.  His  design  did  not  escape  the  eye  of  the  faithful 
Lma,  who  threw  himself  between  his  master  and  the  assassin,  and  voluntarily  received 
the  fiital  blow,  which  was  urged  with  such  vehemaice,  that  it  reached  through  his 
body  into  the  king.  Every  sword  was  instantly  drawn,  but  the  assassin  stood  on  his 
defence,  and  was  not  overpowered  until  he  had  killed  Frodfaera,  another  thane.  The 
wound  of  Edwin  disappointed  the  criminal  Cwichelm,  Hie  king  recovered,  and  at 
the  head  of  a  powerful  army  marched  against  the  perfidious  king  of  Wessex.  His 
enemies  fell  before  him^  and  having  pillaged  th?  cauntry,  ^  rietturned  t^  Narthumber^ 

land  in  triumph,  .. 

About  twenty  years  before  Edwin  asoeuded  to  the  thiwie,  a  great  mental  revohi% 
tion  bad  commenioed  aniong  the  fiacee  An^o^axons  .of.  Brita^  The  monk  Augwb* 
tus,  with  several  assodates,  landed  on  tibe  Ide  of  Thaoet,  1^  the  diwctko  of  rove 
Gregory  the  Gwat,.ai;id  Mm^^dfld  in  convwtittg  Ethefeect^  ioBg  of  Kant,  to  tb» 
c^umtian  ^tb.  Edwkw  altar  his.  advanaeiBcnit^  httving  espettsed  tlie  daughter  ai 
Ethiolbert,  penaitted  her  to  enw  the  Aree  exeieise  oi  her  ret^^ioii,  a«d  abo  pranuacd 
her  tfeakaia  hacotber,  that  he  woiud  impartUIfy  examkie  the  oT^faJlity  of  the  cfari9t]aii> 
i$iik.  .  Jkit  thengh  the  aminents  4$[  PandiniM;,  a  mMdonai^,  w«re  €nf<»reed  by  the 
entecatics  of  his  queen,  Edwin  hentatod  to  embrace  ChrisfciaMty,  At  )eii|^  he  re- 
qnartefl  tlie  advioe  irf  his  f aith^  Wlttena,  after  he  had  exposed  the  reasons  whidi 
induced  htoi  to  {wefer  the  dulsHsffi  to  <Sie  pi^an  worship.  'Tl^  council  ended  in  the 
pui^  acQ^tance  of  the  new  rdigicm ;  md,  what  is  very  singular,  Cott*,  the  high 

^  Th»  m^HSni^  that  indaeed'CaM  to  0Bftirftce  Chriatuttiity  "wag  ^Ingt^ar.  «' No  one/' he  nid,  ^hodeerved 
the  goda  move  Msiduoii^  than  higwulfj  and  yet  i^  had  b&en  less  fortunate.  He  was  weary  of  deitiee  who 
wiaie  80  'oMhrtMi  or  io  viigmtrfbl,  and  wouM  w01in|^'tr^  his  Ihrtune  underiiie  new  reH|pon.''  Bede  parti- 
eidariaee  <MmmtMmta,  in  YoAshire,  aft  the  plaoa  where  Coifi  destroyed  Ae  idols,  of  whose  rites  he  ha^ 

YOU  h  I 


S4  ANGLO .  SAXON  HISTORY  OP 

priest  of  Northuml)erltmd,  distinguished  himself  in  the  destru*ction  df  the  temple  of 
idolatry.  To  Paulinus  Edwin  shewed  himself  a  warm  patron.  His  mansions  at  Ye- 
vering  ill  Glendale,  and  at  Catterick  in  Yorkshire,  were  long  respected  by  posterity, 
as  tfee  pllices  where  their  fathers  had  been  instructed  and  baptized. 

687.  Edwin  had  now  reached  the  summit  of  human  prosperity ;  a  considerable  part 
of  Wales,  and  the  Menavian  islands*,  submitted  to  his  power,  and  all  the  princes  of  the 
Britons  paid  him  tribute.  The  internal  police  which  prevailed  through  his  dominions, 
was  so  vigilant,-  that  robbeiy  was  effectually  repressed ;  the  roads  were  rendered  more 
commodious ;  and  brazen  (ushes  were  chained  near  every  spring  by  the  way  side,  to 
refresh  the  weary  sojourner.  He  frequently  perambulated  the  provinces  of  his  king- 
dom, enforcing  the  lawsf ,  dispensing  justice,  relieving  the  distressed,  and  rewarding 
the  deserving.     **  At  this  time,"  says  William  of  Malmsbury,  "  there  was  no  public 

been  the  priest  This  district  had  witnessed  British  and  Roman  idolatry  before.  Delgovitium  is  its  neigh- 
bour, the  modem  name  of  which^  Wigtoo,  implies  a  town  of  idols.  The  British  word  Delgwe  means  statue 
or  image.^— Jfofa  ad  Bede,  jk  95. 

« 

*  The  Menavian  islands  were  Manand  Anglesey.    Bede  states  that  Anglesey  contained  9^  hydes,  or  fa- 
milies, and  Man  300.    The  fertifity  of  Anglesey  oocafuoned  it  to  be  stiled  The  Moiker  cf  Wales. 

+  The  dvil  polity  of  the  Aoiglo-^a^ons  is  a  subject  of  curious  inquiry ;  but  it  is  involved  in  the  intervening 
gloom  of  eight  centuries.    All  the  primary  germs  in  the  feudal. sy stein  may  be  discovered  amongst  the  Saxons. 
From  the  earliest  intimations  pf  history^  it  appears^  that  every  Gothic  chief  was  surrounded  by  a  number  of 
retainers,  who  did  him  honour  in  peace^  apd  accompanied  him  in  war.     The  lord  and  his  vassal  were  redpro-' 
cally  bouhd  together  by  a  sacred  principle,  which  often  gave  rise  to  actions  of  the  most  romantic  and  generous 
kind.     Vassals  were  divided 'into  two  classes ;  vassals  by  choice,  who  chose  their  own  lord^  and  paid  hini  an 
i&knowledgement  for  his  protection,  ahd' vassals  of  tenure,  "ttrho  held  of  their  lord  estates  for  life,  or  estates  of 
itiheritance,  with  the  obligadbn  of  military  service.     The  conquerors  divided  the  land  into  parcels,  denomi- 
nated hides  or  sowlings.     The  king  kept  the  largest  portion,  and  the  remainder  was  divided  amongst  his 
chieftains,  his  immediate  vassals,  who  subdivided  it  into  shares  amongst  their  humble  vassals.    All  lands  were 
originally  held  on  the  tenure  of  military  service ;  but  after  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  a  distinction  was 
made  b^ween  the  clergy  and  Inity^  **  the  mass  thanes,  and  the  world  thanes.**    The  estates  of  the  fbrmer 
wtre  generally  exonerated  from^^ery  species  of  service.  *  The  due  perfixrmakice  of  service  was  enforced  b^' 
irameraua  enadtmeats.  *  Sevara)  galling  and  oppresshe  burthens  were  imposed  upon  landholders ;  such  aa 
purveyance*  ftea  of  .^bHc  offioers,  aheriff^ds,  and  the  hidag^  <nr  land-tax.    The  king  dahned  the  right  of 
controlling  the  distribution  of  property,  hence  the  vassal  was  anxious  in  his  will  to  obtain  the  ooikfirmation  ti 
his  superior,  and  to  provide  foirpaying  the  heriot,  or  reSrf,  a  kmd  of  legacy  duly.    The  wsMfahitk  of  heiresses, 
and  the  disposal  of  tfiem  in  marriage,  was  also  claimed  by  the  king. '  The  distinotioa  of  ranks  was  a^batanti-* 
ally  the  same  in  all  tlie  iGothi^  nat^ms.    The  €j)mng,  or  king,  whether  the  iolniediate  or  ooUateral  heir  of 
hia  prfideoessor,  .was  always  elected  by  theWitteiia  before  his  ooronation.  At  Chri^tniaa,£aster»andWhitsttn». 
tide,  his  great  tenants  wer^  suQomoned  to  do  him  homage,and  were  feasted  at  his  (^cpenc^  during  eight  d$yiu 
when  every  person  enjoyed  the  '^  king's  peace"  within  four  miles  of  the  court    This  institution,  as  well  as 
'' the  peace  of  God/'  was  to  prevent  the  number  of  outiages  perpetrated  under  the  preteattof  n^aHatarm.    The 
king^s  consort  was  called  '^  queen  ;"  but  the  Anglo-Saxon  queens  urere  generally  aiUed  ''  the  Udy"    Next  to 
the  royal  fiimily  the  highest  order  in  the  state  was  the  ealdmnen,  or  aarls.    Being  entrusted  with  thegovem* 
ment  of  a  shire,  they  were  sometimes  called  viceroys,  princes,  or  satraps.    The  next  in  dignity  were  called 
''comites"  or  ^^gesiths,"  which  signifies  attendant,  or  companion.    They  are  supposed  to  have  been  officers 


»ORTHUMBEBi.A¥D;  35 

robber,  fto  domestic  thief;  the  tempter  of  oohjugal  fidelity  wto  fiar  difitant ;  the  plun- 
dei^r  of  another  Irian's  good^  wds  in  exile; — a  state  of  thiti^  redounding  to  his  praise, 
and  tsrorthy  of  cefebration  in  out  time.  In  short,  such  wajff  the  incresee  of  \m  power, 
that  justice  and  peace  wiUingly  kissed  each  other,  imparting  mutual  acts  of  kindness/' 
For  seventeen  years,  Edwm  reigned  victorious,  and  dii^ensed  happiness  to  his  sub- 
jects,  but  the  spirit  of  ambition  flattered  him  to  his  ruin.    The  tenaer  years  of  his  life 

of  the  rojraL  household.    The  *^  dumea,"  so 'called;  from  ikegman,  to  serve,  were  i^  numerous  and  distinguished 
race  of  men,  divided  into'  several  classes  of  different  rank  and  privil^^.    The  gere&s»  or  reeves,  were  officers 
of  high  im|xirtance.'    They  were  appoint^  ^ver  skiref,  ports,  and  bmroughs,,  collected  tolls  and  rents,  presided 
in  courts;  and' acting  as  substitutes  to  the  earl.    The  lowest  class  of  freemen  were  the  ceorlS|  or  husbandmen* 
Some  possessed  land,  and  others,  held  lands  of  their  lords  by  the  payment  of  a  rent,  or  other  services.    While 
the  customary  services  w^e  performed,  they  oould  not  be  expelled  from  their  estates,  nor  could  a  ceorl  be 
put'  in  b<M9ds»  or  whiptr   The  administration  of  justice  was  rude  and  simple.     The  jurisdiction  of  "  Sac  and 
Soc"  deluded  all  offmoes  committed  within  the  Soc,  and  as  these  courts  were  held  in  the  lord's  hall,  they 
were  usually  tinned  the  hall-motes.  •  From  them  are  derived  our  present  courts  baron  with  civil,  and  courts 
leet  withr  criminal,  jurisdiction.     The  next  was  the  hundred  motes,  or  in  burghs,  burgh-motes.     This  court 
inspected  tl^e  state  oi  the  gilds  and  ty  things,  (or  associations  of  ten  families)  and  decided  questimis  of  litigated 
right,  or  deputed  obligation.    In  matters  of  importance,  the  ealdormitn  convoked  an  assembly  of  the  conti- 
guous hundreds  of  the  third  part  of  tiie  county.    The  former  was  termed  the  court  of  the  lathe,  and  the  latter, 
of  the  tything.    The  shire-mote,  or  court  of  the  county,  was  still  higher  in  dignity.    It  was  held  in  May  and 
OcM)er,  each  year,  and  every  ^reat  proprietor  wa^  compelled  to  attend  in  person,  or  by  deputy.     The  bishop' 
and  ealdorman  presided  with  equal  authority,  apd  their  assessors  were  the  sheriff*,  and  the  most  noble  of  the 
royal  thanes.     Appeals  from  these  courts  were  allowed  to  the  superior  authority  of  the  monarchs.     But  the  su- 
preme and  most  isplendid  court,  was  the  "tnickle  synoths,  or  wUtenagemots"  The  principal  members  of  this  dig- 
nified tribunal  seem  to  have  been  the  head  chieftains,  and  afterwards  the  spiritual  and  temporal  thanes,  who 
oonunahded  the  services  of  military  vassals.    This  court  elected  the  sovereign,  decided  impottant  centroveraies; 
judged  and  puhished  criminals  of  great  power  and  connexion,  provided  lor  the  estiaiiBl  defienoe,-  and  the  in- 
ternal peace  bf  the  realm.     The  judicial  proceedings  of  the  tribunala  wete  not  very  pure,  for  bribery  was 
universal.    When  the  hundred  mote  assembled,  thcf  reeve,  and  twelve  of  llie  oldest  tbanes,  were  appointed  to 
eniquire  into  all  ofibnces  committed  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  court,  and  wpre  sworn,  ''not  .to  foteaaj 
(present)  any  cme  who  Was  innooent,  nor  to  cooeeal  any  one  nth^  was  guilty/'    On  their  presen^ent,  the 
accused  wua  Asqiiently  condemned ;  if  he  pleaded  not  g^ty,  and  .the  plea  ^as  ;adniitbed,  he  .might  pi^e  his 
innocence;  eitfieir  by  th»  pui^tion  of  ]ada>  or  8weariii^>  or  by  the  ordeyl  ^  judgment  q£  Go^.     In  the  pur^ 
gation  by  oath^faepKodiioed  hiaom^  oompufgatots,  who  swcve  that  "  they  believed  his  oatfi  to  be  Hin%ht  and 
dear  J"  -  In  'Nortbumberiaiid,  the  party  produced  forfy-eigbt  jurors,  put  of  whom  twen^-four  were  appointed 
by  halloty  eUd  if  their,  oath  oohrobonOtsd  his  own,  his  hmocence.was  acknowledged.    The  ordeal  by  fire,  or 
by  hot  water,  hi^  been  frequently  described.    Homicide  and  theft  were  the  common  crimes  o^  the  Anglo^ 
Saxons.     The  commission  of  homicide  was  atoned  for  by  a  pecuniary  compensation.     The  Were,  or  legal 
value  of  Hvea»a4raM^  inpnaportioi]^  to.the  rank  of  the  murdei^    Hencei,  all  above  the  rank  of  a  ceorl,  wei^ 
caMed  d^er-»&orft.    Ceorl^  thanesy.and  even  thp  ^^'Wa  fi^equently  joined  in  the  commission  of  robbery.    It 
prevailed,  noCwith8tandiog;the  ^verity  4»f  A»  law,  among  every  order  of  men^    Two-thirds  of  the  population^ 
St  is  tiiougbt,  existed  in  a  atate-of  slmveny.    Men  were  slaves  by  birth,  by  being  involved  in  debt,  or  commiu 
ting  crime,  or  taken  captive  in  war.    Sometimes  men-  volifntarily  surrendered  their  liberty  to  escape  the 
hocrors  of  want  ,  These  were  divided  into  different  classes.    Slaves  wei^  spkl  like  cattle  in  th^  market. 
Mahnsbury  says  that  the  Northumbrians  were  ao  addicted  to  this  traffic,  that  they  9arried  ^ft*,.  not  only  their 
countiymeii,  but  even  their  friends  and  relatives,  an4  sold  them  as  slaves  in  the  ports  of  the  continent    The 


S6  ANGLO-SAXON  HISTORY  OF 

■ 

had  been  cherished  by  the  father  of  Cadwallon^  the  «>Y^feign  ai  Narth  Wnles;  but 
when  Edwin  had  obteined  the  sceptre  of  Nortkumberland,  he  made  war  upon  the  son 
of  his  host  It  became  Edwin  to  resist,  if  attadced^  and  he  justly  chastised,  by  a  de« 
feat,  Cadwallon,  who  had  penettated  to  Widdrixu^ton^  near  Morpeth*  But  he  abused 
the  rights  of  vicb^y^  and  having  pursued  CadwaUcm  into  Wales,  he  th^i  chased  him 
into  fieknd.  So  severely  did  he  ex&cme  his  advantagesi  that  the  British  Triads  cha* 
racterized  him  as  one  of  the  three  plagues  which  befel  the  isle  of  Anglesey. 

Penda,  an  aged,  brave,  and  experienced  warrior,  was  bow  seated  on  the  throne  of 
Merda.    To  this  wariike  and  ambitious  prince  Cadwalkm  a|iplied  for  aid,  which  waa 

f  anted  with  alacrity.  The  confederated  kings  met  Edwm  in  Hatfidd  Chase,  in 
orkshire.  The  Northumbrians  were  greatly  outnumbered  by  the  oomhined  armies* 
The  courage  and  skill  of  Edwin,  however,  promised  to  supply  the  defect ;  hut  hia 
eldest  son  being  slain  by  his  side,  he  rushed,  in  the  madness  oi  grief  and  resentment, 
into  the  thickest  of  his  foes,  and  being  overpowered,  lost  at  once  the  victory  and  has 
life.  The  confederates,  during  more  than  twelve  months,  ravaged  Northumbewand,  and 
Penda  exercised  peculiar  crudties  on  the  Christian  inhabitants.  Constertiation  seized 
the  country.  The  royd  widow,  her  chfldren,  and  Paulinus,  were  compelled  to  seek 
an  asylum  in  Kent.  Eadbdd^  her  kinsman,  received  them  honourably ;  but  her  ap- 
prehensions induced  the  queen  to  send  her  children  to  JPrance.  She  then  built  a 
monastry,  and  exhibited  a  novelty  to  the  English  which  produced  serious  conse- 
quences.   She  took  the  vdL 

On  Edwin's  death  the  andent  divisions  of  Northmnberland  ugam  prevailed.  His 
cousin,  Osric,  a  prince  mature  in  ace  and  experience,  succee^d  to  the  throne  of 
Ddra,  and  Eanfnd,  the  son  of  Ethdmth,  returned  from  his  retreat  in  the  mountains 
of  Caledonia,  and  aaoended  the  Bemician  throne.  Both  these  kings  restored  paganism. 
Cadwallon  oondnuad  his  war,  and  Osric,  rashly  venturing  to  besiege  him  in  a  strong 
town,*  he  sallied  out  unexpe^stedly,  and  destroy^  the  king  of  I>eira.  The  remorse^ 
less  victor  spread  desolation  thtmiffbout  evay  quarter.  The  terr<»r  of  Eanfrid  hurried 
hMi  to  his  mte,  being  txeaidtkeroaAj  slain  in  a  parisey  with  the  haugh^  coMjueroi:. 

Oswald,  the  brother  6i  EanMd,  determiiied  to  arvefeige  the  calamitiiefi  of  im  family 
and  ooun^.  With  ia  smafl  but  determined  band  of  flowers,  he  6<mffbt  the  aiwy 
of  the  enemy,  and  discovered  it  neglijgently  encanroed  in  the  ndghbourhood  of 
Hetxham.  Cadwallon,  too  confident  <^  his  invincibuity,  despised  the  vash  youAh 
who  appeared  in  arms  to  impede  his  success.  But  Oswald,  who  had  not  imitetra  the 
ppttstacy  of  his  brc*her,  having  implored  the  dd  of  Heav«n,  rose  from  pmyer  to 
battle  and  to  Victory,  Then  ^*  ttie  fierce  ^flMctor  of  his  foes,  the  prespeitotts  lion,*  fell, 
''The  wr^th  of  slaughter  hastened  to  make  the  eagles  full;"    Cadw^Mon  and  the 

services  of  slaves  were  in  general  certain  and iixed,  Thote  wholived  tieair'ihb  Tilk  vf^lMfkitA,  were^  hf 
the  Normans,  denominated  t^Jkins,  and  thehr  cottages,  iStue  viBage.  f  ndnsttimis  slasveft  «rtnelimei  wore  aMs 
to  purchase  their  freedom,  from  the  Mndneto,  or  avarice,  of  their  hwsds.  The  aathoHty'dP  tl^'ckH^gy  waa 
frequently  employed  to  shield  them  from  oppression.  The  ffurghen  were  partly  flree  «id  piu^y  davttr|  InA 
ihey  all  enjoyed  peculiar  advantages.^fV^)^  Dug^l,  fFttrw.  Wilkiu*s  Leges  ^Saoean.  Sfdimatfs  i^h$».  a74k 
Slacks.  Comm.  v.  i,  p.  |4»8.  ffenfy's  HiaU  Bri^.  v.  «.  p.  «4.  Tamet^  fR^.  JiftgL  Sb»,v,  A  f  •  «Ti,  ^  «?• 
J^ingard^s  flut.  Bng,  v,  1,  p,  337,  et  seq, 

*  Th^  town  was  a  mumcipium«  und  wm  therefore,  in  all  probability,  York,— 5«ns^A'«  V<Acs  on  BeSe,  p.  1 03^ 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  87 

flower  of  his  warriors  perished.  Thf^  return  of  the  Britons  to  their  and^tit  country 
never  became  probable  again. 

The  provinces  of  Deira  and  Bemida  were  united  under  the  victorious  Oswald,  who 
mounted  the  Northumbrian  throne  in  the  year  484.  His  policy  was  wise,  and  his 
piety  sincere.  He  obtained  a  teacher  from  IcolmkiU,*  to  instruct  his  rude  subjects ; 
but  as  his  temper  was  unfit  for  converting  an  irascible  people,  Aidan,  a  monk,  was 
consecrated  for  the  Northumbrian  mission.  The  king  approved  of  his  exertions,  and 
gave  him  Lindisfam  for  the  seat  of  his  bishopric.  In  a  few  years  the  church  of 
Northumberland  was  fixed  on  a  solid  and  permanent  foundation.  Oswald  also  in* 
duced  his  father-in-law,  the  king  of  Wessex,  to  embrace  Christianity^  and  the  nation 
quickly  followed  their  king's  example.  Not  only  the  Saxons  and  Britons,  but  abo 
tne  Picts  and  Scots,  acknowledged  the  wisdom  and  power  of  Oswald.  But  the  fate  of 
Edwin  awaited  him,  and  the  same  prince  was  destined  to  be  the  minister  of  his  death. 
In  the. field  of  Maser  he  fought  with  the  warlike  Penda  and  his  Mercians.  The 
pagans  were  victorious  and  Oswald  was  slain.  His  last  words  were  repeated  by  the 
gratitude  of  the  Northumbrians,  and  a  proverb  preserved  them  in  the  remembrance 
of  their  posterity.  "  Lf6rd  have  mercy  on  the  souls  of  my  people,"  said  Oswald,  as 
he  felL  The  ferodty  of  Penda  did  not  even  spare  the  body  of  his  adversary.  The 
head  and  limbs  were  severed  from  the  trunk  and  exposed  on  stakes.  He  proceeded 
through  Northumberland,  with  devastations ;  but  being  unable  to  take  the  roy^d  dty 
of  Bamfaiough,  he  destroyed  the  surrounding  country,  and  then  led  back  his  army  in 
order'  to  oppose  the  East  Anglians. 

Oswy,  the  brother  of  Oswald,  was  elected  king  of  Bemida ;  and  shortly  after,  h$ 
consented  that  Oswin,  son  of  Osria,  the  kinsman  of  the  renowned  Edwin,  should 
rdgn  over  Deira.  Oswin,  though  distinguished  for  humanity  and  generosity,  could 
not  allay  the  jealousy  of  Oswy,  which,  in  a  few  years  broke  into  open  hostility. 
Oswhi'  snrunk  from  a  mutual  conflict,  and  concealed  himself  in  the  house  of  earl 
Humwald ;  but  this  perfidious  thane  betrayed  him  to  Oswy,  and  suffered  him  to  be 
murdered.  The  Deirans,  however,  maintained  their  independence,  and  placed  Adel* 
wald,  the  son  of  Oswald,  on  their  throne. 

The  direful  and  active  Penda  continued  to  evince  the  most  inveterate  malignity 
against  the  Northumbrians  of  Bemida.  At  the  age  of  eighty,  the  pagan  chief  still 
courted  the  dismal  smiles  of  Oden,  and  still  delighted  to  prepare  the  banquet  for  the 
falcon  and  the  wolf.  Rejecting  all  negodations,  he  hastened  with  his  veterans  to  add 
Oswy  to  the  five  monarchs  whose  funeral  hbnours  recorded  him  as  their  destroyer. 
Despa^  at  last  nerved  the  courage  of  Oswy,  and  with  a  chosen  band  of  warriors,  he 
advanced  to  meet  the  invading  army.  The  hoary  Penda  had  filled  up  the  measiu-e  of 
bis  iniquities,  and,  with  thirty  vassal  chiefs,  perished  before  the  resoli^te  and  valiant 

*  The  iUuBtrioas  Columba  arrived  fhym  Ireland  in  A.  D.  563,  and  founded  the  abbey  of  lona^  or  JcolmkiU. 
He  laboured  during  thirty-five  years  in  converting*  the  Picts  by  his  precepts^  and  meliorating  the  Scots  by 
his  examp^.  The  saints  of  this  holy  isle  excelled  in  all  the  learning  of  the  age^  and  "  the  princes  of 
Northumbria  acquired  the  lights  of  the  gospel^  from  the  luminaries  of  lona."  As  Aidan^  the  Scoto-Irish 
missionary^  spoke  Epglish  imperfectly^  Oswald^  who  understood  Gaelic^  acted  as  interpreter  betwe^  the 
preacher  and  his  Anglo-Saxon  subjects.— ^ec2e>  lib.  ttt.  c.  4.    Admnan.  vU  Columb.  L  U,  c.  20, 

VOL,  I.  K 


98  ANGLO  .  &AKON  HISTORY  OF 

NorthutnbrilHis.  The  king  of  Debu,  though  engaged  against  Oswy,  mutrally 
the  decision  of  the  battle,  while  a  sudden  inundation  swept  away  multitudes  of 
the  Mercian  troops^  and  contributed  to  produce  a  panic  wnich  ensured  ^eir  de- 
struction* 

The  victorious  Oswy,  pursuing  his  success,  subdued  the  kingdom  of  Mercia ;  but 
conceiving  great  friendship  for  Feada,  the  son  of  Penda,  he  invested  him  with  the 
sovereignty  of  the  ^uthern  Mercians.  Peada  received  tfa^  hand  of  the  daught^  of 
Oswy,  as  the  pric^  of  his  conversion  ;  but  he  was  soon  afterwards  murdered  by  his 
wife.  After  his  death  the  Mercian  chiefs  revolted  from  Oswy,  drove  away  the 
Northumbrian  magistrates,  and  presented  the  crown  to  Wulf  h«e,  of  the  house  of 
Penda,  whom  they  had  protected  in  secrecy,  and  who  now  successfully  defended  his 
independence  against  the  Northumbrians. 

664.  Adelwald,  king  of  Deira,  having  died,  the  powerful  Os\vt  seized  the  throne 
of  that  kingdom.  At  this  period  a  council  was  held  at  Whitby  for  determining  the 
proper  time  of  celebrating  Easter.  The  dispute  was  conducted  with  great  acrimony, 
and  terminated  in  the  retreat  or  expulsion  of  the  Scottish  and  Pictish  clergy.  This 
circumstance,  perhaps,  had  an  influence  in  producing  the  subsequent  wars  between 
Northumbria  and  their  northern  neighbours. 

Oswy  died  in  the  year  670,  having  r^gned  twen^^^ght  years.  On  his  deo^ue^ 
Egfrid,  his  son,  was  placed  over  the  united  Kingdom  or  Northumberiand.  The  Fiete, 
anxious  to  regain  their  independence^  cdSected  an  immense  army,  and  carried  all  the 
horrors  of  war  into  the  territories  of  Egfrid ;  but  he  arrested  their  progress,  and  re* 
jfiulsed  their  hosts  ivith  great  slaughter.  TheLr  general^  Bctnarth,  f^  and  the  corses 
of  his  followers  stopped  the  current  of  the  tiver  which  flowed  near  the  scene  of  action.f 
Animated  with  tiie  spirit  of  a'mbition,  the  warlike  Eofrid  turned  his  arms  against  the 
Mercians,  though  Ethelred,  their  king,  had  married  his  sister.j:  The  hosme  armies 
engaged  on  the  Trent,  where  ^Ifuin,  the  brother  of  the  aggressor,  felL  More  cala*- 
mitous  warfare  impended  from  the  exasperation  of  the  combatants,  when  the  aged 
urchbishop  Theodore  interposed.  His  sacred  function  derived  new  weight  from  his 
character,  and  he  established  a  pacification  between  the  related  cmnbatants. 

*  The  bankfl  of  the  tiver  then  called  Winwid,  near  Leeds,  was  the  theatre  of  the  conflict.  (Camden  Gib, 
711*)  Bede  does  not  explicitly  assert  that  Penda  had  thirty  times  the  number  of  forces,  but  that  it  was  so 
reported.  The  monks,  says  that  venerable  historian^  ascribed  this  extraordinary  victory  to  a  vow  made  by 
Oswy  before  the  battle.  **  If  the  Pagan>"  exclaimed  he,  "  know  not  how  to  accept  our  offerings,  let  us  pre- 
sent them  to  him  who  knows  them  well — to  our  Lord  God."  Accordingly  he  immediately  vowed  to  conse- 
crate his  daughter  to  God,  as  a  sacred  virgin,  and  to  give  twelve  portions  of  land  for  erecting  the  like  number 
of  monastries.  After  his  victory  he  fiilfilled  his  engagement,  by  building  and  endowing  the  monastries,  and 
sending  his  daughter,  Elfleda,  to  be  educated  a  nun  in  the  monastry  of  Whitby,  whereof  i^e  died  abbess, 
at  the  age  of  sixty  years. — Bede,  lib.  tti.  c.  24. 

f  Eddius  fills  two  rivers  with  the  bodies,  over  which  the  victors  passed  dry  shod.*— ^Tiff.  c.  air  p.  71 .  «rf.  Gale. 

X  Egfrid  had  conquered  Lincolnshire,  then  a  part  of  the  Mercian  kingdom,  before  Ethelrid's  accession.**^ 
Bede^  lib,  tt.  c.  1^. 


NORTHUMBERLAND,  89 

In  the  year  648^  Egbert  tent  Beorbt,  a  warlike  wd  saagulnAry  chieftfUDt  to  rav^^ 
tiie  coast  of  Ireland.  The  peMeful  mlutbitants  were  mtadered,  thdr  lai^U  lAundered^ 
and  man^  churches  and  tDonasteies  destroyed**  In  the  foUowing  year»  tlie  restless 
and  ambitious  king  of  Northuxnbria  invaded  the  Picts.  Brude,  the  Pictish  king,  re- 
tired before  a  superior  foree»  till  his  piursu^  "v^ete  entangled  in  the  defiles  M  tbe 
mountains,  when  his  fierce  warrio^rs  rushed  to  battle,  and  tew  of  the  Northumbrians 
escaped  the  slaughter,  fisbert  himself  was  fcRmd  on  the  field  by  the  conquerors^  and 
honourably  interred  at  Iccnmkill.  This  disastrous  expedition  humbled  the  power  of 
Northumberland  to  the  dust  The  tributary  states  acquired  their  iivdependence, 
and  this  once  formidafale  kidgdom  became  at  last  a  dismal  arena  of  incessant 
usurpations. 

Egfrid  had  married  EdUthryda,  the  daughter  of  Anna,  king  of  the  East  Angles. 
This  singular  female,  at  an  early  period  of  her  life,  had  bound  herself  by  a  vow  of 
virginity;  but  her  pious  wish  was  omnraed  by  the  ^cy  of  her  friends,  and  she  was 
compelled  to  maorry  Tondberet,  a  nobleman  of  great  power^  Her  entreaties,  however, 
moved  the  breast  of  her  husband,  and  he  respected  her  chastity.  At  his  deatii  her 
friends  offered  her  in  marriage  to  Egfrid,  and  she  was  conducted  a  reluctant  victim 
to  the  Northumbrian  court.  Her  teDstancy,  however,  triumphed  over  his  passion, 
and  after  preserving  her  virginity  during  the  space  of  twelve  years,  she  obtained  his 
permission  to  take  tne  veil  in  the  uaonastry  of  Coldini^iam.  Absence  revived  the 
affectioh  of  Egfrid;  he  repented  his  consent,  and  was  pdi^eparin^  to  take  lier  by  foroe^ 
vrhea  she  escaped  to  Ely,  where  she  gov^nad  as  abbess  to  her  death*  For  her  pious 
donations  and  exemplary  austerities,  she  was  canoni2ed.t 

Egfrid  having  diea  without  children,  Al&'ed,  whom  Oswy,  his  fatiier,  had  rejected 
from  the  sueoesnon  for  his  illegitimacy,  was  now  admitted  to  the  royal  dignity.  This 
worthy  prince,  the  precursor  of  his  great  namesake,  luid  been  educated  by  the  cele- 
In'ated  wOfHd.  Under  his  father  he  nad  governed  Deira»  and  had  contributed  to  the 
defeat  of  Penda.  Reftised  the  crown  of  his  father,  he  voluntarily  retired  into  Ireland, 
or  to  Icolmkill,  where  for  fifte^i  vears  he  lived  a  life  of  philosophic  retirement.  He 
now  governed  the  kingdom  with  the  same  virtue  with  which  he  had  resigned  it. 
Content  with  maintaining  the  integrity  of  his  dominions,  he  reigned  peaceably  for 
-nineteen  years. 

Alfred,  in  705,  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Osrid,  a  child  of  eight  years.  A  rebel, 
Edulf,  usurped  the  sceptre,  and  besiefired  the.  royal  infant,  and  his  guardian,  Berthfrid, 
in  Bambrough,  the  metropolis  of  Northumberland:  but  before  two  months  had 
elapsed,  the  usurper  paid  the  forfeit  of  his  treason.     In  710,  Berthfrid  defeated  the 

*  The  Irish  in  that  age  wore  deecribed  as  a  milcly  intelligent^  and  inoffensive  people^  which  augmented  the 
horror  with  which  this  cruel  invasion  was  viewed.  The  historian  of  Llencarvan  declares^  that  a  xemarkable 
earthquake  annoyed  the  isle  of  Man.  Both  he  and  the  Saxon  chronicle  unite  to  assure^  that  it  rained  blood  in 
Britain  and  Inland ;  that  butter  and  milk  became  ruddy,  and  that  soon  afterwards  the  moon  dressed  herself 
in  the  sanguinary  garment  I ! 

t  Egfrid  had  no  issue,  which  is  generaUy  attributed  to  bis  wife  having  adliered  to  her  vow  of  chastity ;  but 
Lingard  observes,  that  Egfrid  was  espoused  to  Edilthryda  before  he  had  reached  his  fourteenth  year,  and  that 
he  married  a  Moond  wife,  ^tfa  whom  he  lived  fiHUrteen  y«tf8«— j^nlif*  gf  ike  Anglo^axm  Church,  voL  hp*  18. 


4Q  ANGLO-SAXON  HISTORY  OF 

Picts  with  great  slaughter,  between  Haef»  and  Caere,  in  the  ^Id  of  Manan  *  Osrid 
soon  after  emancipated  himself  from  the  restraints  of  his  tutors,  and  indulged  in  the 
most  vicious  pursuits.  In  his  nineteenth  year,  the  imgovemable  youth  was  assassinated 
at  the  lake  or  Windermere,  by  Cenrid  and  Osric,  two  of  his  kinsmen,  who,  peroeiviE^ 
the  universal  hatred  which  prevailed  against  him,  presumed  by  his  death,  as  he  had 
no  issue,  they  should  obtain  the  diadem.  Aocordin^y,  both  C&axid  and  Osric  reigned 
in  succession ;  the  former  two  years  and  the  latter  nme ;  but  the  events  of  this  period 
are  not  recorded. 

Northumberland  being  freed  from  the  power  of  these  ursurpers,  the  people,  in  the 
year  7S1,  placed  the.crown  upon  the  head  of  Ceolwulph :  he  was  a  lineal  descendant 
of  Ida,  by  Acc»^  his  eldest  illegitimate  son.  But  he  possessed  neither  the  vi^ur  nor 
the  talent  requisite  for  his  station.  Shortly  after  his  elevation,  he  was  seized,  shorn, 
and  shut  up  in  a  monastrv.  Escaping  from  his  confinement,  he  re^ascended  the  throne, 
to  witness  the  ravages  of  the  Mercians,  and  to  experience  the  incessant  alarms  of  im- 
pending treason.  After  a  reign  of  eight  years,  he  voluntarily  abandoned  the  disquiet* 
mg  crown,  which  he  offered  at  the  high  altar  in  the  cathedral  church  at  Lindisfam, 
where  he  assumed  the  cowl.f 

In  787»  Eadbert  succeeded  to  the  Northumbrian  throne,  when  the  realm  was  in 
the  most  relaxed  and  impotent  state.  Indolence  and  fanaticism  pervaded  the  hij?h^ 
ranks ;  but  the  king,  by  entreaties  and  r^roaches,  rouzed  the  letnargic  zealots  m>m 
their  fascination,  and  at  length  he  succeeded  in  oiganizing  a  powerful  army.  Having 
reduced  his  distracted  dominions  to  order,  he  subdued  the  Picts  and  Britons,  repelled 
the  aggressions  of  the  Mercians,  and  then,  imitating  his  predecessor,  resigned  his 
sovereignty,  and  sought  the  tranquillity  of  the  cloist».:|:  He  was  the  eighth  king  of 
England,  who,  within  fifty  years,  had  relinquished  the  crown  for  the  cowl. 

Eadbert  had  one  son,  OswuLf,  who,  on  his  father's  abdicaticm  in  759^  ascended  the 
throne ;  but  in  the  first  year  of  his  reign,  he  was  slain  by  a  ccmspiracy  of  his  thanes. 
Mbl  Ethdwold,  a  nobleman  of  high  rank,  ventured  to  accept  tiie  crown.  His  title 
to  the  throng  was  contested  by  the  descendants  of  Ida ;  but  he  slew  Oswin,  his  prin« 
cipal  opponent,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Melross,  after  a  sanguinarv  conflict,  which 
lasted  for  three  days.  After  a  troublesome  reign  of  six  years,  Ethelwold  resigned  in 
favoiu*  of  Aired,  a  prince  of  the  bouse  of  Ida.  J    This  king,  after  reigning  over  a  dia^ 

•  Gibson,  in  his  Appendix  to  the  Chronicle,  conjectures  that  Ha^^and  Caere  were  Care-house  and  Heefiekl, 
a  little  beyond  the  Wall.— p.  18. 

t  About  twenty-eight  years  before  this  time,  Cenrid,  of  Mercia,  and  Offii,  of  Essex,  abdicated  their  power, 
went  to  Rome,  and  assumed  the  monastic  profession.  Huntingdon  obserres,  that  the  example  of  these  two 
kings  produced  maqy  lliousands  of  imitators. 

X  Simeon  says  the  English  kings  ofibred  him  some  part  of  their  territories,  provided  he  would  retain  hfa 
royal  dignity.  Huntingdon  ascribes  Eadbert's  retreat  to  impressions  made  upon  his  mind  by  the  violeitf 
deaths  of  Ethelbald  of  Mercia,  and  Sigebert  of  Wessex,  contrasted  with  the  peaceful  exit  of  his  predecessor^ 

Ceolwulph. 

« 

J  Sim.  Dun.  p.  106.    Some  writers  say,  that  Mol  Ethelwold  was  assassinated  by  his  suocesscir. 


NOKTHUMBERLAJfD.  41 

satisfied  people  for  ten  years,  was  deserted  by  his  fatnily  and  nobles,  and  oWiged  to 
seek  safety  in  flight. 

Ethebed,  the  son  of  Mol  Etfaelwold^  was,  after  the  expulsion  of  this  tyrant,  ele- 
vated to  tile  crowbi  But  this  mistaken  man  found  no  safety  in  his  treadietous  and 
vicious  policy*  Two  6f  his  ealdormen,  Ethelred  and  Adelbald,  having  been  the  in- 
struments,  became  apprehensive  lest  they  should  become  the  victims,  of  his  cruelty. 
They  tlieirefore  rebelled  against  him,  d^eated  his  troops,  and  finally  expelled  him 
from  the  kin^om. 

The  victorious  chieftains  bestowed  the  kingdom  upon  Alfwold,  the  brother  of 
Aired.  Though  this  prince  was  of  an  excellent  disposition,  such  was  the  licentious 
spirit  of  the  Country,  that  two  thanes  raised  an  army,  seized  the  king's  ealdorman, 
^eorn,  and  his  justiciary,  and  burnt  them  to  ashes,  because,  in  the  estimation  of  the 
ifebels,  their  administration  of  justice  had  been  too  severe.  Shortly  after,  a  powerful 
conspiracy  was  formed  against  the  virtuous  Alfwold,  and  he  was  treacherously  killed 
by  the  ealdorman,  Sigan.  This  crime  was  perpetrated  at  a  place  called  SytWe-oester, 
or  Chichejfter,  and  the  royal  remains  were  interred  at  Hexham,  in  the  year  788. 

A  period  of  anarchy  appears  to  have  succeeded,  which  continued  till  the  year  791  y 
when  the  jn^vailing  party  agreed  to  raise  Osred^  the  son  of  Aired,  to  the  throne. 
But  his  reign  was  very  short ;  the  turbulent  thanes  confederated  against  him,  and  he 
was  oompeUed  to  seek  safety  in  the  isle  of  Man. 

Ethelred,  conceiving  the  distractions  in  the  state  favoured  his  return,  supported  by 
a  few  desperate  partizans,  again  ascended  the  throne.  Thii^ting  for  revenge,  he  len; 
Eardulf  weltering  in  his  blood  at  the  gate  of  a  monastry ;  and  m'  the  following  year 
he  dragged  both  the  children  of  Alfwmd  firom  the  sanctuary  at  York,  and  slew  them. 
The  deposed  Osred  afterwards  attempted  to  recover  the  crown,  but  his  army  deserted 
him,  and  he  fell  into  the  hands  of  Ethelred,  and  perished.  This  prince  now  endea- 
voured, by  a  marriage  with  the  daughter  of  the  powa^ul  Offa,  to  secure  his  authority, 
and  for  tms  puipose  he  repudiated  his  previous  wife.  But  his  policy  and  his  murders 
were  equally  vam,  for  his  bloody  career  was  now  hastening  to  a  dose.  Northumber- 
land was  suffering  from  famine,  pestilence,  and  pirates,  and  aU  these  evils  were  attri- 
buted to  the  imprudence,  or  wickedness  of  Ethelred.  His  subjects,  therefore,  whom 
he  had  assisted  to  brutalize,  destroyed  him  in  the  fourth  year  of  his  restoration,  and 
set  up  Osbald.  After  a  reign  of  twenty-seven  days  they  deposed  Osbald,  and  he 
prudently  withdrew  from  the  pursuits  of  ambition,  and  obtained  security  in  the 
cloister. 

794-  Eardulf,  who  had  been  recovered  from  his  assassination  by  the  charity  of  the 
monks,  who  found  him  apparently  lifeless,  near  their  cloister,  was  recalled  from  his 
exile  and  placed  upon  the  throne.  Thinking  it  politic  to  expose  the  murderers  of 
Ethelred,  ne  defeated  them  in  battle,  and  then  turned  his  arms  against  their  protector, 
the  kii^  of  Merda ;  but  the  clergy  interfered,  and  procured  a  reconciliation.  Yet 
Eardulf  was  afterwards  surprised  by  his  enemies  and  put  into  confinement. 

These  numerous  and  bloody  revolutions  had  exdted  the  notice  of  foreign  nations. 
Charlemagne  pronoimced  the  Northumbrians  more  perfidious  than  the  very  pagans  ;* 

*  Malms.  2&    Lingard's  Hist  of  Eng.  vol.  L  p.  120. 
VOL.  1.  L 


42  ANGLO-SAXON  HISTOBY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAKD. 

uid  obtained  the  tib«ati<m  at  the  CMtire  from  the  hands  of  his  sancrainaiy  saVfeebs. 
At  length  the  quarrel  was  committed  to  the  decision  of  the  pontiff,  Leo  III.  who 
pnMiounced  in  favour  of  the  deposed  monarch.  Eazdulf  quitted  Rome  in  the  year 
809,  and  entered  Northumberluid,  accoinpuiied  br  the  papal  and  imp^ial  envoys, 
when  he  was  unanimously  restored  to  the  throne.  How  long  he  continued  to  rrign 
is  unc^tain. 

Alfwold  is  mentioned  afterwards  as  a  fleelinc  monarcfa  for  two  years ;  and  Eanred, 
the  son  of  Eardulf,  then  succeeded  for  thirty-three  years,  and  transmitted  it  to  hk 
son.  At  this  time  Egbat,  king  of  the  West  SstXchw,  was  ptRsoing  his  schemes  of 
i^grandizement  with  carefHil  poocy.  Having  ocmqu««d  aU  oppoation  in  the  south, 
he  directed  his  march  against  Northumberlfoid.  But  Eanreo,  ike  reigning  prince, 
was  too  prudent  to  engage  his  turbulent  uid  exhausted  kingiitom  in  a  war  with  the 
pupil  of  Charlemagne.  At  Dore,  beyond  the  Humber,  in  828,  be  met  Egbert,  snd 
amicably  acknowledged  his  superiority.  Thus  the  glory  <tf  the  Nt^thnmbrian  king- 
dom set  for  ever. 

After  the  death  of  Egbert,  anarchy  and  perfidy  agun  prevailed.  "  Thia  Idngdbm," 
says  Milton,  "  was  now  fallen  to  shivers ;  uieir  lungs,  one  after  another,  so' often  slain 
by  the  people,  no  man  daring,  Uiough  never  so  ammtiow,  to  take  up  a  sceptre,  whack 
many  mA  found  so  hot." 


Ptor-way  in  U«  CaOU  ef  tfeiwfk. 


ANGLO -DANISH  HISTORY 


OF 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


HE  politic  and  warlike  Egbert  kad  scareel  j  crushed  the  proud  spirit 
of  independence  in  the  Juigk^Saxon  kingdoms,  than  innumeraUe 
swarms  of  insatialde  barbarians  viaited  the  coast,  and  menaced  his  infant 
monarchy  with  meritable  nmiv  The  paiinsuU  of  Jutland,  the  idanda 
of  the  Baltic,  and  the  shores  of  the  SemdinaYian  continent,  were  the 
birth-^place  of  a  hardy  and  vigorous  race,  whom  necessity  incited  to  ma* 
ritime  depredations.  Their  political  state  co-operated  in  producing  a  disposition  to 
piracy.  Among  the  Gothic  tribes  of  the  north  it  was  a  law,  that  the  eldest  son  should 
ascend  the  paternal  throne.  The  rest  were  exiled  to  the  ocean,  to  wield  their  scepl7es> 
amid  the  turbulent  waves.  With  no  weailth  but  their  ships,  no  force  but  their  crews« 
and  no  hope  but  from  their  swords,  the  Sem  Kingg  maintained  a  powerftil  emjnre  ujj^ 
on  the  boisterous  ocean.  They  had'  twice  plundered  Northumhertand,  desolated  w^ 
coasts  of  France  and  Spain,  and  spread  terror  and  dismay  alcmg  the  shores  of  the  Me*^ 
diterranean. 

In  the  disastrous  era  of  the  Northmen,  piracy  was  the  only  glory  and  only  pureuit- 
which  kings  of  energy  esteemed.  Parents  buried  theit  wealth  in  order  to  compri^ 
their  children  into  the  dangerous  and  malevolent  occupation.  Never  to  sleep  under  a- 
smoky  roof,  nor  indulge  in  the  chearful  cup  over  a  hearth,  were  the  boasts  of  Itiese*' 
watery  dneftains.  Fond  of  ^ry,  they  pursued  its  gratification  by  an  aissiduous  cut. 
tivation  of  bodily  stren^h,  agility,  and  manual  dexterity.  Nursea  in  blood,  and  edii- 
cated  to  slaughter,  theu*  ferocity  and  cruelty  almost  transcend  belief.  Besides  the 
most  savage  food,  to  -tear  the  hannless  infant  from  the  mother's  breast,  and  to.  toss  it 
on  their  hmces  from  one  ruffian  to  another,  was  the  horrible  amusement  of  these  pi^ 
rates*.    In  the  energy  of  their  heroic  courage,  which  hmghed  even  at  thehr  own  ae^ 

*  Oliver,  a  celebrated  chieftain,  gained  from  his  dislike  to  thia  amusement  the  €onte8af%ioa»  siniaine  of 
Baroakal,  or  ''  The  Preserver  of  Children." 


44 


ANGLO. DANISH  HISTORY  OF 


struction,  they  displayed  powers  superior  to  the  common  standard  of  nature.  Whetl 
a  conflict  impended,  some  of  these  men  abandoned  all  rationality  upon  system ;  they 
studied  to  l*esemble  wild  beasts ;  they  bit  their  shields ;  they  howled ;  they  threw  oflf 
all  covering ;  they  excited  themselves  to  a  paroxysm  of  fury ;  and  then  rushed  to 
every  crime  and  horror  which  the  most  frantic  enthusiasm  could  perpetrate.  This 
fury  was  an  artifice  in  battle,  like  the  Indian  war-whoop.  It  was  a  consistency  of 
character  in  such  men  to  abominate  tears  and  mourning  so  much,  that  they  would 
never  weep  for  their  deceased  relations.  In  appearance,  however,  they  were  not  dis- 
gusting barbarians.  They  bathed  frequently,  and  shaved,  cut,  and  combed  their  hair. 
They  loved  gorgeous  ships  and  splendid  gamjents,  and  were  fond  of  the  pomp  and 
parade  of  war. 

Ragnor  Lodbrog  was  a  sea-king  whose  adventures  and  successes  excited  the  admi- 
ration of  his  contemporaries.  Various  parts  of  Europe  witnessed  the  depredations  of 
this  intrepid  pirate.  He  had  even  the  nardihood  to  sail  up  the  Seine  to  Paris,  plun- 
dering and  slaughtering  all  the  way*.  A  Northumbrian  prince  at  last  avengea  the 
world  on  Ragnor,  but  dreadftd  was  the  retaliation  that  followed. 

Being  shipwrecked  on  the  northern  coast,  Ragnor,  with  a  few  of  his  followers, 
reached  the  shore,  and  heedless  of  the  consequences,  commenced  their  usual  career  of 
depredations.  Ella,  who  had  driven  Osbert,  the  successor  of  Eanred,  fix)m  the  Nor- 
thumbrian throne,  marched  against  the  fearless  Dane.  Superior  force  prevailed ;  and 
Ella,  obeying  the  impulse  of  barbarian  resentment,  doomed  his  illustrious  prisoner  to 
perish  with  fingering  pain  in  a  dungeon,  stung  by  venomous  snakes.  Ragnor  con- 
templated his  mte  without  a  groan  of  sorrow ;  his  undaunted  soul  breatiied  its  last 
energies  in  the  prospect  of  revenge;  he  felt  confident  that  "the  cubs  of  tiie  boar,*'  would 
avenge  his  fate,  and  the  moment  of  his  death  was  signalized  by  a  laugh  of  defiancef . 

*  Lodbrbg  s^emi  to  have  hod  an  exquisite  taste  for  fightingi  for  being  a  scald  as  well  as  a  warrior,  he  says, 
"  The  battle  is  as  pleasing  to  me  as  the  bed  of  a  virgin  in  the  glow  of  her  charms,  or  the  kiss  of  a  young  wi- 
dow in  he^  most  seoir^  apartment."  Thus  estimating  the  worship  of  Mars  and  Venus,  or  rather  of  his  own 
tutelary  deitieii,  OdiA  and  Friega,  as  the  supreme  delights  of  life.  It  is  not  surpriaing  such  men  should  ex- 
pect to  enjoy  these  f^libities  beyond  the  grave.  In  consequence  of  this  idea  their  mythology  in  describing 
the  ValkaUa^  or  paradise  of  these  heroes,  represents  their  happiness  as  consisting  in  a  constant  repetition  of 
their  earthly  pastimes.  In  the  morning  Odin,  and  his  grisly  companions,  put  on  their  armour,  and  amused 
themsdves  with  cutting  each  others  in  pieces ;  then  retiring  to  the  feast,  where  they  were  waited  on  by  tiie* 
fairest  virgins,  the  evening  passed  away  amidst  all  the  delights  of  the  wassel  bowl,  when  they  retired  to  the 
apns  of  their  &ir  attendants,  who  met  them  the  next  evening  as  unsullied  virgins,  when  their  lords  and  mas- 
ters had  been  put  together  again  after  a  fresh  cutting  up  in  the  field  of  battle. 

f  The  death-song  of  this  brave  and  romantic  savage  is  still  preserved  in  the  Runic  tongue,  and  is  strangly 
characteristic  of  the  northern  watriors  :— 


With  glittering  swords  we  urg'd  the  fray— 
Ah  f  who  can  shun  the  destm'd  day  ? 
Could  I  have  guess'd  (when  heaps  of  slain 
Huri'd  by  my  fury,  ting'd  the  main). 
That  I  should  e'er  be  doom'd  to  die 
The  sport  of  Ella's  cruelty. 


With  glittering  swords  we  urg'd  the  fray- 
In  Odin's  hall  with  rich  array, 
A  fesst  and  lusty  drink  I  see 
In  foe-men's  skulls  prepared  for  me ! 
Is  he  a  man  who  shrinks  from  death  ? 
Triumph  shall  crown  my  parting  breath. 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


45 


Ragnor's  sons  heard  of  their  father's  fate  With  feelings  the  most  indignant,  and  de« 
termined  on  retaliaticoi  the  most  unboimded.  The  communication  of  their  piirpose 
of  pmiishment  collected  a  mighty  torrent  of  vindictive  fury.  Danes,  Jutes,  Swedes, 
Norw^ans,  Frisians,  and  other  nations ;  all  the  strength  and  all  the  valour  of  the 
north  were  assembled  for  the  expedition.  Eight  kin^  and  twenty  jarls  commanded 
the  army  of  revenge,  which,  quitting  the  B^utic,  amved  safe  on  the  East- Anglian 
coast. 

Northumberland,  the  peculiar  object  of  Danish  hostility,  was,  at  this  inauspicious 
era,  deeply  plunged  in  a  civil  warfare.  But  Ella  and  Osbert,  the  rival  chiefs,  sheathed 
for  a  while  the  swords  of  contending  ambition,  and  united  for  their  mutual  defence 
and  the  general  safety.  The  fierce  invaders  had  extended  their  depredations  to  the 
Tyne ;  but  were  followed,  and,  on  the  21st  of  March,  867,  assatdted  near  York  by  the 
Northumbrian  chiefs.  The  Danes,  surprised  by  the  attadc,  fled  into  the  city.  The 
English  pursued  with  the  eagerness  of  anticipated  victory,  and  entered  promiscuously 
wil£  their  enemies ;  but  despair  redoubled  the  efforts  of  the  Northmen,  and  the  assail- 
ants were  in  their  turn  compelled  to  retire.  Osbert,  with  the  bravest  of  the  Nor^r 
tihumbrians,  were  slain ;  and  Ella,  being  taken  alive,  Ingwar  and  Ubbo,  the  sons  of 
Ragnor,  inflicted  a  cruel  and  inhuman  retaliation  on  him,  foe  their  father's  sufferings. 
They  cut  the  figure  of  an  eagle  on  his  back,  divided  his  ribs  to  tear  out  his  lungs,  and 
threw  salt  into  his  lacerated  flesh*.  After  this  decisive  battle  Northumberland  ap- 
peared no  more  as  an  Anglo«-Saxon  kingdom.  The  Danish  chiefs  displayed  in  their 
ratnre  conduct  new  principles  of  action  and  new  projects  of  policy.  It  was  soon  evi-. 
dent  that  their  ahject  was  to  conquer,  in  order  to  occupy.  Ivar,  the  Dane,  usurped 
ihe  sceptre  of  Nfxrthumb^Iand^  from  the  Humber  to  the  Tyne.  The  people  beyond 
tile  Tviie,  being  stffl  unsubdued,  appointed  Egbert  as  their  sovereign ;  but  in  a  few 
years  he  was  expeUed,  aoad  one  Rioseg  took  the  shadowy  diadem. 

In  876,  Hal£toi,  a  Danxdi  chief,  embarked  his  troops  a,t  Devonshire,  and  enterinfi^ 
ihe  Tyne,  sailed  up  tiiat  river  as  far  as  the  .mouth  of  the  Teams.  Here  he  moored 
his  fleet  during  the  winter.  Upon  the  first  appearance  of  spring,  he  issued  forth  to 
the  work  of  devastation.  Tynemohith  was  levelled  with  the  ground,  and  the  abbey 
0f  Lindisfani  was  plundered  and  reduced  to  ashes ;  the  monastries  and  churches  were 
evray  where  dsstroyed,  the  monks  and  nuns  sktln  with  derision,  and  the  country  un-. 
spom^y  depcmik^bBd  with  fire  and  sword.  Scotland  attempted  to  withstand  the 
fletoe  pagans  w  ihe  Baltie,  but  failed^  Half  den  having  completed  the  conquest  of 
Benuieiay  it  ^  Was  oaiiktled  criit  among  Dani^  offieers,"  who  now,  as  , possessors  of  thQ 


With  glittering  swards  we  urg'd  the  fray-^*. 
Bat  ah  f  fiM-vipcBSiseiM  their  pr^y-^ 
'Tis  fkMv.  their  fiungft  oorvode  my  hearts 
My  children  l«-coald  thof  know  my  smart  1 
I  see  their  cheeks  with  fury  glow, 
Tb^ll  site  iheir  vengeanoe  all  mjr  file. 


With  the  dead  I  pant  to  b^^ 
See  the  sisters  beckon  me  l 
Odin  sends-^I  hail  the  call ! 
And  thirst  to  view  his  lofty  hall. 
There  midst  heroes,  glorious  throng } 

Flowing  goblets  I  shall  quaff: 
Death  arrests  th'  exulting  song— 

I  diei-p-and  as  I  die-*>I  laugh^ 


VOL,  I, 


*  ChroQ«  Sax*  79-    Sim.  Pun.  14*    Snorre,  p.  lOS^ 

M 


46  ANGLO-DANISH  HISTORY  01* 

soil,  began  to  plough  and  sow.  They  mixed  contentedly  with  their  neighbours,  atid 
soon  became  amalgamated  with  the  Anglo-Saxons  of  this  county.  Ricseg  died  this 
year  with  grief  at  the  distresses  of  his  country,  and  another  Egbert  obtained  the  no* 
minal  honours  from  the  Danes*. 

During  this  critical  juncture  the  illustrious  Alfred,  grandson  of  Egbert,  of  Wessex^ 
opposed  me  treachery  and  the  ferocity  of  the  Danes  with  the  most  extraordinary 
talents  and  invincible  oo\u*age.  Having,  by  his  power  and  generosity,  coerced  and 
conciliated  the  Anglo-Danes,  he  repelled  the  fierce  aggression  of  the  slolful  and  inde^ 
fatigable  Hastings. 

Alfred  Was  succeeded  by  his  ton  Edward.  His  ambitious  cousin,  Ethelwold,  at- 
tem{^ted  to  i^eize  the  crown  for  himself.     Miscarrying  in  this  project,  he  sought  the 

Erotec^tion  of  the  Northumbrian  l)anes,  who,  pitying  his  misiortunes  and  aomiring 
is  spirit,  appointed  him  their  sovereign.  At  the  head  of  an  army  of  Northumbrian 
adventurers,  he  pillaged  the  country  of  Merda  and  Wessex,  but  on  his  return  he  was 
overtaken  and  slain  m  battle.  In  910,  Edward  destroyed  and  plundered  the  r^ons 
of  Northumberland.  The  visit  of  devastation  was  returned  to  Mercia  by  the  Nor- 
thumbrian  Danes,  but  they  were  attacked  and  defeated  with  immense  slaughter,  and 
compelled  to  acknowledge  the  power  of  the  victor. 

Sigtryg,  a  Dane,  was  the  reigning  king  in  Northumberland  when  Athelstan 
mounted  the  throne  of  his  father,  Edward.  To  secure  the  allianoe  of  the  Anglo- 
Danes,  Athelstan  gave  one  of  his  sisters  in  marriage  to  the  Northumbrian  prince, 
who,  on  the  occasion,  embraced  Christianity.  He  however,  soon  repented,  put  away 
his  wife,  and  resumed  his  idolatry.  Roused  by  the  insult,  Athelstan  armed,  but  Sig- 
tryg died  before  he  invaded.  His  sons  fled,  the  warlike  Anlaf  into  Ireland,  and 
Godefrid  into  Scotland.  The  conqueror  pursued  his  success,  drove  Ealdred,  a  Saxon 
chieftain,  from  Bamburgh,  demolished  the  castle  of  York,  the  principal  bulwark  of 
the  Danish  power,  and  added  Northumberland  to  his  paternal  dominions, 

Athelstan,  enraged  at  the  friendship  of  Constantine,  king  of  Scotland,  to  the  Nori- 
thumbrian  Danes,  in  984,  pillaged  tne  coast  of  his  dominions  to  the  extremity  of 
Caithness,  but  the  injured  sovereign  prepared  for  the  day  of  vengeance ;  while  Anlaf, 
who  now  commanded  a  district  in  Ireland,  was  plamiing  to  retaliate  the  insult  of  his 
expulsion  from  Northumberland.  These  princes,  assisted  by  the  chiefs  of  Wales, 
the  state  of  Strath  Clyde,  the  Anglo-Danes,  and  a  crowd  of  warriors  from  Norway 
and  the  Baltic,  combined  to  overthrow  the  power  of  Athelstan.  The  active  Anlaf 
entered  the  Humber  with  a  fleet  of  615  ships,  and  wh^i  the  confederates  had  ioined« 
the  formidable  mass  of  hostility  marched  against  Athelstan.f    A  dreadful  conffict  en- 

*  A  petition  for  the  protection  of  heaven  against  the  fury  of  the  Danes  was  introduced  into  the  Saxon 
liturgy  of  these  times  : — "  A  furore  Normannorum  eripe  nos,  Domine."  The  Wednesday  of  eadi  week  was 
appointed  as  a  day  for  offering  this  public  supplication.— iSpf/m.  jp.  34S.     Ckron,  Sax.  76. 

t  Anlaf,  like  Alfred^  had  explored  the  hostile  camp  as  a  minstrel.  His  pride  betrayed  him ;  a  soldier  ob» 
serving  him  fling  away  the  reward  he  had  received  for  his  performance,  watched  him  and  recognized  the 
Northumbrian  leader;  afterwards  he  told  Athelstan  the  quality  of  his  guest.  '  Why  did  you  not  alarm  the 
camp  and  stop  him  ?'  said  the  king.  '  Because/  replied  the  soldier,  '  I  was  once  his  liege  man.'  That  night 
M  bidiqp  was  assassinated  who  had  been  placed  in  that  bed  which  Athelstan  commonly  used. 


.  >Mli  1  _!.  ,J 


nohthumbehlaud.  47 

Sued  at  Brunanburgh,  which  raged  from  sun-rise  to  sun-set  The  confederates  were 
vanquished  with  fearful  slaughter.  This  victory  left  Athelstan  without  a  oomj)eti- 
tor ;  Northumberland  yielded  to  his  power ;  the  Anglo-Danes  were  completely  sub- 
jugated ;  and  he  gained  the  fame  of  being  the  founder  of  the  English  monarchy. 

The  great  Athelstan  being  succeeded  by  his  brother  Edmund,  the  inconstant  Nor- 
thumbrians {*e(%kUed  their  favourite  prince,  Anlaf.  Eric,  a  Norwegian  prince,  who 
was  expelled  his  paternal  inheritance  for  his  parricides  and  cruelty,  had  been  consti- 
tuted the  feudal  king  of  Northumberland  by  Athelstan ;  but  accustomed  to  the  vio- 
lent agitations  of  a  barbarian  Ufe,  he  soon  resumed  his  piratical  pursuits ;  and  Anlaf 
having  defeated  Edmund,  he  obtained  the  sovereignty  of  the  northern  regions.  The 
next  year  Anlaf  died,  and  Edmund  availed  himseff  of  the  casualty  to  recover  the  pos- 
session of  Northumberland.  Two  fleeting  kings  attempted,  but  in  vain,  to  be  perma* 
nent  in  this  kingdom.  Edmund  also  extended  his  conquests  to  Cumbria,  and,  with 
the  hdp  of  the  king  of  South  Wales,  ravaged  that  uttle  kingdom.  He  cruelly 
blinded  the  two  sons  of  Dumail,  its  king,  and  gave  the  kingdom  to  Malcolm,  king  of 
Scotland^  on  condition  of  defending  the  northern  parts  from  invaders. 

Edred  having  mounted  the  throne  of  his  brother,  Edmund,  in  946,  the  Northum- 
brians took  the  oath  of  fealty ;  but  when  Eric  returned  from  his  piratical  expeditions, 
they  received  him  as  their  king.  Provoked  by  this  rebellion,  Edred  assembled  a  vin- 
dictive army,  and  spread  desolation  over  Northumberland.  As  he  returned,  laden  with 
plunder,  the  Northmen  warily  followed  him  from  York,  and  at  Castorford  surprised 
and  destroyed  his  rear  guard.  Enraged  at  this  disaster,  the  king  stopped  his  retreat, 
and  recomm^iced  the  work  of  devastation ;  but  his  anger  was  appeased  by  presents, 
entreaties,  and  submission,  and  he  returned  to  London  m  triumph,  with  a  long  train 
of  captives.  Anlaff,  a  new  competitor  for  the  Northumberland  crown,  now  appeared, 
and  Eric  perished  in  the  wilds  of  Stanemoor  by  the  treachery  of  Osulf ,  and  the  sword 
of  Macco,  the  son  of  Anlaff.  This  was  the  last  struggle  of  Northumbrian  indepen- 
dence ;  for  Edred  returned  with  a  numerous  army,  and  traversed  the  county  without 
opposition.  He  c^irried  away  in  bonds  the  proudest  nobles  of  the  country  ;  he  an- 
nexed Northumberland  inseparably  to.  his  dominions ;  and  to  govern  it  more  easily, 
he  partitioned  it  into  baronies  and  counties,  over  which  he  placed  officers  of  his  own 
appointment.  The  chief  governor  was  Osulf,  who  took  the  title  of  Earl  of  Northum- 
berland*.   Thus  was  the  independence  of  Northumberland  entirely  annihilated. 

The  population  of  Northumberland  was  now  composed,  in  a  great  proportion,  of 
Danes,  or  the  posterity  of  Danes.  Animosity  against  the  southern  Saxons,  and  afibc- 
tion  for  their  kinsmen,  induced  them  frequently  to  invite,  always  to  assist  invaders. 
Anxious  to  conciliate  this  warlike  and  turbulent  people,  the  politic  Edgar  flattav 
ingly  permitted  them  to  make  their  own  laws.  During  the  reign  of  his  successor, 
Enielred,  the  Northmen  renewed  their  ravages,  and  this  weak  and  cruel  prince  at- 
tempted to  destroy  the  internal  power  of  the  Danes  by  secretly  ordering  tiSem  to  be 

*  Though  the  governors  of  Northumberland  were  sometimes  styled  kings  after  the  heptarchy,  their  pro- 
▼inces  were  in  general  dependent,  and  their  most  usual  title  was  that  of  earl.  In  970,  the  govemmoit  of  the 
whole  appearing  an  elevation  too  great  for  a  subject,  Edgar  created  Oslach  earl  of  the  country  between  the 
Tyne  and  the  Humber,  and  conferred  the  same  dignity  on  Eadulf,  who  governed  the  country  north  of  the 
l>ne*— J»we<f,  245. 


48  ANGLO. DANISH  HISTORY  OF 

massacred  on  the  13  th  of  Nov^nber,  1002*.  This  detestaUe  act  aroused  the  hoaror 
and  indignation  of  the  northern  tribes.  Divided  and  weakaitd  by  faeti<His,  the  £ng* 
lish  became  the  sport  of  an  exasperated  and  farocious  en^ny.  At  length  Sweyn, 
king  of  Denmark,  undertook  the  conquest  of  Enshoid.  At  Gfdnsbrougn  the  Nor^ 
thumbrians  submitted  to  his  power,  and  Ethehred  was  compelled  to  abandon  the 
crown  to  his  successful  competitor.  Sweyn  immediatdy  after  died^  and  bequeathed 
the  crown  to  his  son  Canute. 

Ethelred  now  re^ascended  the  throne.  Again  he  onployed  the  dagg^*  of  the  assas* 
sin  ;  but  his  cruelty  neither  conciliated  este^oa,  not  insured  fidelity.  Ev^ei  Edmund» 
his  son,  fled,  and  placed  himself  at  the  head  of  the  NcNlhumbrians,  with  their  earl 
Ufatred.  Canute  naving  landed  in  England  with  a  great  totoe,  Uhtred  attanpted  to 
protect  his  possessions*  but  was  treacherously  slain  by  the  Dane.  During  the  sue- 
ceeding  struggle,  Ethdred  died  and  resigned  a  thrcme  to  Edmimd  whidi  aeither  his 
ooun^  nor  activity  could  secure.  Canute  was  tdtimately  elected  kinff;  atid  the 
]perfiduous  Ederic  and  Eric,  who  governed  Northumbwknd,  ware  sacrificed  to  his 
jealousy. 

Dnrmg  the  reign  of  Edward  the  C<mfes$or  the  most  a^oroved  Danish  kiws  of 
Northimiberland  were  incorporated  with  the  customs  of  the  Britons,  and  the  maxima 
and  rules  of  law  of  the  West  Saxons  and  Mercians.  This  code  was  made  oommoti 
to  Engkndf .  About  this  time  Duneui,  king  of  Scotiand,  was  murdered  by  Mao-* 
beth.  Malcofan,  the  son  of  the  deceased  kmg,  fled  to  England,  and  lived  fifteen 
years  with  his  unde  Siward,  eari  of  Northumberland.  When  Macduff  the  thane  of 
Fife,  unfurled  the  royal  standard,  Malodm  and  Siward,  with  the  approbatkxi  of  Ed^ 
ward,  entered  Scotland  with  an  army  oi  Northumbrians.  The  victory  of  Lanfanan, 
in  Aberdeenshire,  was  fatal  to  the  usurper ;  but  young  Siward  perished  in  the  action. 
When  **  the  right  valiant  Siward''  returned,  he  was  attacked  by  a  mortal  disorder. 
The  aged  he^ro  wdered  his  arms  to  be  brought,  and  breathed  his  last,  sitting  upright 
in  his  oed  and  leaning  upon  his  spear.  His  son  Waltheof,  being  ycfun^^  the  earL 
dom  of  Northumberland  was  given  to  Tostig,  the  brother  of  Earl  Harold,  The  ra- 
pacity of  Tostig  provoked  resistance,  and  the  hisurgsnts  chose  Morcar  for  their  future 
earl.  This  ele^on  was  confirmed  by  the  d3ring  Edward.  When  Harold  mounted 
the  throne,  in  order  to  secure  the  allegiance  erf  the  Northumbrians,  he  married  Mor» 
car's  sister,  and  defeated  Tostig,  who  attempted  to  resume  his  authority  in  Northum* 
berland. 

On  the  accession  of  William  the  Conqueror  to  the  throne,  Copsi,  who  had  governed 
Northumberland  as  the  deputy  of  Tostig,  was  created  earl ;  but  OsuIf»  who  had  en-* 

*  It  is  impossible  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the  slaughter  of  the  Danes,  or  the  precise  classes  involved  in 
destructian,  from  the  obscure  intimations  of  ancient  authors.  In  Northumberland  the  Danes  were  too  iiume* 
rous,  and  too  extensively  intermingled  with  the  Saxon  population  to  be  sentenced  to  assassination.  Those 
who  perished  in  this  dieadfUl  massacre  were  probably  such  as  served  in  the  army,  held  places  of  trust,  and 
the  femiUes  that  were  scattered  through  the  districts  which  the  Danes  had  not  subdued  and  coloniced. 

f  These  were  the  laws  so  fbndly  cherished  by  our  ancestors  in  succeeding  ages,  and  which  subse* 
quent  princes  so  often  promised  to  keep  and  restore,  in  order  to  obtain  popularity  when  pressed  by  foreign 
emergencies  or  domestic  disoontents^-p-Jpor/eictify  c.  X5,  Hak's  HiH^  Com^  Law^  55,  BUa^hU  CmRs  ir«  I^  f*  6.^ 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  ^ 

joyed  the  same  appointment  from  the  gift  of  Morear,  surprized  his  competitor  at 
Newbum.  Copsi  ran  to  the  church,  which  was  set  on  fire.  The  flames  drove  him  to 
the  door,  where  he  was  cut  down  by  Osulf.  This  insurrection  being  disorderly  and 
unconnected,  it  ended  in  no  change,  and  William  sold  the  earldom  to  Cospatric,  a 
noble  thane,  but  he  afterwards  transferred  it  to  Robert  de  Cummin*,  The  new  earl 
entered  Durham  with  a  body  of  horse,  contrary  to  the  advice  of  the  bishop.  The 
same  night  he  was  surprized,  and  perished  with  nearly  all  his  followers.  At  York, 
Coispatric,  with  the  Northumbrians,  defeated  the  Norman  commander  with  great 
slaughter,  and  then  besieged  the  castle. 

At  this  time  the  exasperation  of  the  ]^roud  and  warlike  Northumbrians  against  the 
arrogant  Normans,  had  become  irreconcdeable.  Though  frequently  defeated  by  su* 
perior  skill  and  activity,  yet  all  their  causes  of  resentment  were  augmeiited  by  the 
oppressions  of  a  foreign  soldiery,  rendered  vindictive  by  opposition,  and  daring  from 
impunity.  Such  was  the  ardour  of  the  indignant  Northumbrians,  that,  disdaining  to 
repose  in  houses,  lest  effeminacy  should  incapacitate  them  for  the  hardy  conflict  they 
projected,  they  preferred  to  dwell  in  tents  and  forestsf . 

William,  provoked  by  what  he  thought  an  unreasonable  enmity,  flew  in  wrath  to 
succour  his  garrison  at  York.  He  attacked  and  defeated  the  assailants,  and  spared 
none  in  the  retreat.  Shortly  after,  240  ships,  crowded  with  Danish  warriors,  arrived 
in  the  Humber,  where  they  were  joined  by  Waltheof,  (son  of  the  celebrated  Siward), 
Edgar  Atheling,  and  numerous  bands  of  Scots  and  Anglo-Saxons.  When  the  Coa^ 
queror  heard  of  these  formidaUe  arrays,  he  swore  in  the  transput  of  his  wrath  that 
he  would  exterminate  the  Northumbrians,  and  this  dreadful  oath  .he  merdlessly  per-* 
formed.  The  Danes  retired  from  the  contest,  and  the  Enfflish  were  exposed  to  his 
vengeance,  The  vast  tract  between  the  Humber  and  the  Tyne  was  left  without  a 
isiuj^e  habitation,  th^  refuge  only  of  wild  beasts  and  robbers.    So  complete  was  the 

*  Camden^  in  giving  a  brief  account  of  the  deputies  of  the  crown^  who  were  distinguished  by  the  title  of 
Earls  of  Northumberland,  says : — "  I  will  add  what  I  have  read  in  an  old  manuscript,  in  the  library  of  John 
Stowe,  an  antiquary  of  the  city  of  London :  Copso  being  made  Earl  of  Northumberland  by  William  the 
Conqueror,  expelled  Osculph,  who  sooq  after  slew  him  :  Osculph  did  not  long  survive  this  revenge,  he  being 
killed  by  a  javelin,  from  the  bands  of  a  robber.  After  this  Gospatriclc  purchased  this  earldom  of  the  Con- 
queror, but  was  soon  after  deposed.  Waldeof^  the  son  of  Si  ward,  succeeded  him,  and  he  in  a  short  time  lost 
his  head.  Then  Walcher,  bishop  of  Durham,  had  the  earldom,  and  was  slain  at  a  riotous  assembly  of  the 
people.  Robert  Mowbray  attained  these  honours^  which  he  forfeited  by  treasonable  attempts  to  depoee  King 
William  Rufus,  in  &vour  of  Stephen  Eiu*!  of  Albermarle.  King  Stephen  gave  this  earldom  to  Henry,  son  of 
David  the  Scotch  king ;  and  William  his  son,  afterwards  King  of  Scotland,  assumed  the  title,  claiming  it 
from  his  mother  of  the  family  of  Earls  Warren,  as  appears  by  the  book  of  Brinkbum  Abbey.  Ailer  acme 
time  elapsedi  Bicbard  the  First  sold  this  ^doni  to  Hugh  Pudsey,  Bishop  of  Durham,  for  life,  deriding  him 
in  bis  title,  as  baying  transmigrated  ap  old  bishop  into  a  young  earl.  But  when  the  king  was  a  prisoner  to 
the  emperor,  in  his  return  from  the  Hdy  Land,  Hugh  having  contributed  fbr  his  ransom  only  2000  poanda 
of  sllvjer,  which  the  king  resenting,  esteeming  it  but  a  trifling  sum  for  one  who  had  amassed  immense  ridiea, 
he  divested  him  of  this  dignity :  ^dfter  which  time  tbe  title  of  Earl  of  Northumberland  lay  dormant  about  ISQ 
^ears.    At  kng^  it  was  revived  in  the  family  of  Piercys.— Camrfen  Brit. 

t  Henc^  the  Normans  called  them  "  Foresters."— Orrf.  f^.  5il« 
VOL,  I.— (3)  N 


50  ANGLO-DANISH  HISTORY  OF 

devastation,  that  William  of  Malmsbunr  states,  that  this  district*  which  had  been  fuU 
of  towns  and  cultivated  fields,  remained  barren  and  desolate  to  his  time,  which  was 
nearly  a  century  afterwards.  More  than  one  hundred  thousand  persons  perished  by 
sword  and  famine.  Amidst  these  horrible  atrocities,  William  paisioned  the  puny 
£dgar  Atheling,  and  for^ve  the  Earl  Waltheof.  But  this  noble  Saxon  was  shortly 
afterwards  accused  of  joinmg  in  a  conspiracy  with  some  Norman  barons,  and  beheaded. 
Like  his  father,  Siward,  he  was  of  gigantic  size  and  strength,  and  of  uiidaunted  cou- 
rage. His  memory  was  so  dear  to  the  nation,  that  miracles  were  ascribed  to  his  tomb. 
The  districts  north  of  the  Tyne  were  not  exempted  from  the  evils  of  this  embittered 
warfare.  A  wasteful  war  of  eager  and  implacable  partisans  was  carried  on,  and  the 
country  was  filled  with  bloodshed,  devastation,  and  famine*.  At  the  same  time  Mal- 
colm, king  of  Scotland,  unable  to  defend  the  Northumbrians,  with  unparaleUed  cru- 
elty and  ungenerosity,  committed  the  most  infernal  devastations  throughout  their 
country,  and  carried  into  captivity  an  immense  niunber  of  his  former  friends  and 
allies.  For  a  long  time  after  scarce  a  little  house  in  Scotland  was  to  be  found 
without  English  slaves  of  one  or  the  other  sex.  Those  who  escaped  the  grasp  of  the 
Scottish  invaders,  sank  to  be  the  servants  and  dependants  of  the  Norman  conquerors. 
The  ancient  nobles  of  Northumberiand  were  destroyedf .  The  lands  were  profusely 
distributed  by  William  amongst  his  followers,  subject  to  certain  military  services:]:. 

*  "  The  English  who  sarvived  laid  secret  amboahet  for  the  hated  and  auapected  Norman^  and  killed  them 
erery  where  in  the  woods  and  private  places.  In  revenge  the  king  and  his  minislera  raged  against  the 
English  for  many  years  with  cruel  tonbenla.''  This  description  of  the  contending  parties  is  given  by  the 
author  of  the  Dialogues  on  the  Exchequer,  composed  in  the  reign  of  Henry  II. 

t  The  Conqueror  was  so  profuse  of  his  gifts,  that  he  gave  280  English  manors  to  one  of  his  bishops. 
"  Thus  strangers/'  says  a  Norman  ecclesiastic,  *'  were  enriched  by  the  wealth  of  England,  whose  sons  for 
them  were  ne&riously  killed  or  driven  out  to  wander  wretched  exiles  abroad." — Ord,  Fit.  521. 

*  After  the  conquest  the  knight's  fee  was  established.  All  the  great  vassals  of  the  crown,  whedier  lay  or 
clerical,  were  compelled  to  have  a  certain  quota  of  knights,  or  horsemen,  completely  armed,  and  to  maintain 
them  in  the  field  during  the  space  of  forty  days.  By  this  regulation  the  crown  could  raise  an  army  of  60,000 
horsemen.  The  chief  tenants  generally  divided  their  property  into  two  portions.  One  the  lord  let,  or  culti- 
vated himself:  it  was  called  demesne.  The  other  part  was  bestowed  on  military  tenants  with  the  obligation 
of  serving  on  horseback.  Five  hides  of  land  (which  varied  from  eighty  to  two  hundred  acres)  was  the  extent 
of  the  knight* s  fee.  Fealty  and  homage  were  required  from  all  the  free  tenants.  The  military  tenants  of  die 
crown  was  oWged  to  attend  the  court  at  the  three  great  festivals,  and  hence  were  called  the  king's  barons, 
and  their  lands,  baronies.  By  degrees  two  classes  arose,  the  lesser  and  the  greater  barons,  and  as  the  latter 
only  attended  the  king,  they  alone  retained  the  title  of  baron.  All  the  fees  granted  by  the  conqueror  were 
in  perpetuity  to  the  feoffees  and  their  legitimate  descendants.  But  in  case  of  the  failure  of  heirs,  of  felony, 
or  treason,  the  fee  was  escheated,  or  forfeited,  to  the  crown.  Fees  of  inheritance  were  always  enjoyed  by  the 
neaifest  heir ;  but  what  the  tenant  acquired  by  purchase,  or  from  favour,  was  at  his  own  disposal.  When  the 
heir  of  a  fee  was  a  minor,  the  lord  became  his  ward;  when  the  fee  descended  to  a  daughter,  the  lord  claimed 
the  right  to  dispose  of  her  in  marriage,  and  to  claim  the  homage  and  services  of  her  husband.  This  grievance 
continued  until  the  12th  Charles  II.  when  ''all  tenures  of  honour,  manors,  lands,  &c,  were  turned  into  fVee 
and  common  soccage."  The  Normans  preserved  most  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  laws  and  customs ;  but  despising 
the  fiery  ordeals  of  the  English,  they  preferred  their  own  trial  by  battle,  as  more  worthy  of  freemen  and 


NORTHUMBEftLAND,  61 

and  numerous  fortresses  were  erected  to  overawe  an  insulted  and  oppressed  people. 
Every  place  of  emolument  and  authority  in  the  state,  and  every  d^ity  in  the  diurch, 
passed  mto  the  ^ftossessioli  of  the  Normans.  Individuals,  who  had  been  poor  and  ob- 
scure in  their  own  coimtry,  were  suddenly  elevated  in  the  scale  of  society,  and  dis- 
played in  their  conduct  all  the  irregularities  of  defective  education,  and  all  the  arro- 
gance of  newly  acquired  power.  Under  the  government  of  this  military  aristocracy^ 
the  miseries  inflicted  upon  the  natives  are  indescribablie.  Whien  these  drciunstances 
are  considered,  and  the  pecuHar  disasters  that  afflicted  Northumberland,  it  is  not  to 
be  wondered  that  there  is  no  account  of  this  county  in  the  famous  Doomsday-book, 
which  contains  an  accurate  survey  of  aU  the  other  parts  of  England,  and  was  finished 
before  the  Conqueror's  death.. 

After  the  consolidation  of  the  Conqueror's  power  in  England,  the  tumultuous  Nor- 
thumbrians ceased  to  struggle  for  political  independence ;  but  though  their  country 
was  no  longer  ranked  as  an  independent  or  -tributary  state,  it  assumed  the  character 
of  a  military  frontier,  and  became  the  theatre  of  constant  battle,  inroad,  defence,  and 
retaliation.  These  transactions  will,  however,  be  better  detailed  in  the  topographical 
history  of  this  interesting  region. 

warriors.  They  separated  the  spiritual  from  the  secular  courts,  ifrhkh  produced  great  rivahy  between  the 
two  jurisdictions.  The  old  distinction  of  dasaes  itito  caldbrmen,  thanes,  cedrls,  and  theowas,  were  preserved 
under  the  new  names  of  county  or  earl,  of  barons,  of  knighta  and  esquires,  of -firee  tenants,  of  villeins,  and 
nei£k,^WUk.  Leg.  217.     Leg.  WUL  Ckmq.  ap.    Inguffi  p.  229. 

*  The  Norman  lords  or  barons  who  now  shared  the  landed  property  of  England,  held  their  possessions  as 
they  had  been  obtained-— by  the  sword.  The  authority  of  the  monarch  was  insufficient  to  repress  the  irregu* 
larities  of  a  haughty  and  warlike  aristocracy.  He  that  had  strength  sufficient  to  wrest  land  from  another, 
usually  kept  his  acquisition  till  superior  violence  forced  it  from  him.  Young  knights  and  esquires  exercised 
themselves  in  rapine  and  robbery ;  and  William  Rufus  permitted  his  military  retainers  to  amuse  themsdves 
by  plundering  the  estates  of  the  country  nobility.  Even  the  bishops^  under  Stephen,  participated  in  the 
general  practice  of  depredation ;  and  in  John's  reign  it  is  acknowledged,  that  the  castles  of  the  barons 
were  the  caves  of  robbers  and  the  dens  of  thieves.  The  weak  and  the  timid  weire  exposed  to  perpe- 
tual injury  and  danger.  While  society  was  in  this  state  of  military  chaos,  knights  travelling  about  in  seardi 
of  adventures,  became  a  popular  and  lucrative  profession.  They  cheerfully  engaged  to  redress  those  wrongs 
which  the  laws  were  too  feeble  to  remedy ;  and  honour,  plunder,  or  rich  donations,  became  their  usual  com* 
pensatton.  Thus  arose  chivalry  and  knight-errantry  in  England.  As  the  mannas  of  the  age  softened,  mi« 
Utary  adventurers  attached  themselves  to  the  fair  sex;  but  f<Nr  some  time  after  the  Conquest,  even  the  ladies 
practised  and  excelled  in  militaxy  exerdses.  After  the  reign  of  Edward  III.  the  improvement  of  society 
diminished  the  utility  of  chivalry,  and  it  disappeared  with  the  evils  which  it  had  contributed  to  remove.— 
Ord.  Fit.  664.  Malmth.  179-  Ordericus,  p.  p.  687.  And  Aidkorities  quoted  in  Turner's  Hist.  Eng.  voL  1, 
p.  ISl,  et  seq. 


A  CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE 


OF  THE 


KINGS  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


No. 

1 
ft 

8 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 

9 

10 

11 
12 
18 


14 
15 
16 


17 
18 

19 
90 
SI 
»a 
28 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 


29 
80 
81 
32 
38 
84 


•  •  • 


Idft,  Iflt  king  of  Beraicia  ..••••• 

^Ila,  1st  king  of  Deira    ....... 

Adda,  2d  king  of  Bernida 

Glappa,  8d  king  of - 

Theodwald,    4th  king  of    ■■ 

Frethulf,        6th  king  of 

Theodoric,     6th  king  of 

Ethdric,         7th  kii^  of    

Ethelfri^i,  Ist  king  S  Northumberland^  he  having 

united  ihe  provinces  of  Bemicia  and  Deira.    • 
Edwin,  Sd  king  of  Northumberland    .•••..••. 

After  whom  the  provinces  were  again  divided. 

Eanfrid,  8th  king  of  Bemicia « 

Osric,  2d  king  of  Deira    • 

Oswald,  8d  kwg  of  Northumberland,  be  having  re^ 

united  the  provinces ;  after  his  decease  they  were 

again  divided.  ••••.... 
Osw^,  9th  king  of  Bernicia 
Oswm,  Sd  king  of  Deira  . . 
Adelwald,  4th  king  of  Deira ;  after  his  death  Deira 

was  seized  by  Oswy,  who  thus  became  4th  king 

of  Northumberland 
Egfrid, 
Alfred, 
Osrid, 
Cenrid, 
Osric, 
Ceolwulph, 
Eadbert, 
Oswulf, 
Ethelwold, 
Aired, 
Ethelred, 
Alfwold,        16th  king  of 

A  period  of  anarchy  for  three  years  seems  to 
have  occurred  here. 
Osrid,  17th  king  of  Northumberland   .. 

Ethelred  was  restored  . .  • , 

Osbald,  18th  king  of 

Eardulf,  19th  king  of 
Alfwold,  20th  king  of 
Eanred,         21  st  king  of 


f^m* 


5th  king  of  Northumberland 

6th  king  of       ■■ 

7th  king  of 

8th  king  of 

9th  king  of 
10th  king  of 
11th  king  of 
12th  king  of 
13th  king  of 
14th  king  of 
15th  king  of 


Bcigim  to 

DMot 

iMgn. 

ezpelbd. 

A.D. 

A.  D. 

647 

559 

560 

589 

560 

567 

567 

672 

572 

678 

578 

680 

580 

697 

587 

683 

598 

617 

617 

638 

688 

634 

683 

634 

634 

642 

642 

642 

651 

651 

670 

In  the  20th  year  of  nis  reign  the  independence  of 
Northumberland  ceased,  and  it  became  subject 
or  tributary  to  Egbert,  the  king  of  Wessex. 


670 
686 
706 
716, 
718 
731 
787 
769 
769 
763. 
774 

779 


791 
792 
794 
794 
806 
80& 


685 
706 
716 
718 
781 


759 
763 

774 

788 


806 
808 
840 


ANCESTRY 


OF  THE 


NORTHUMBRIANS. 


HE  preceding  sketches  of  Northumbrian  history  will  illustrate  the 
character  of  me  different  races  of  men  that  have  figured  in  this  pro- 
vince. It  may,  however,  not  be  irrelevant,  to  notice  more  minutely 
and  distinctly  the  various  revolutions  which  the  Northumbrian  popu- 
lation has  undergone,  and  to  delineate  the  character  of  the  Borderers^ 
whose  acts  are  so  intimately  connected  with  the  histories  of  the  two 
kingdoms,  and  so  particularly  interestinjg  to  the  inhabitants  of  this[ 
district.  The  scenes  of  rapine  and  bloodshed  exhibited  on  the  Borders,  were  atten-* 
lively  viewed  by  both  nations,  and  it  is  consolitary  to  reflect,  that  they  are  softened, 
and  rendered  tolerable  by  many  actions  of  a  splendid  and  gallant  character. 

The  primeval  inhabitants  of  Northumberland,  at  the  a^  of  the  Roman  conquest, 
have  been  generally  represented  as  a  horde  of  rude,  miserable,  and  ignorant  savages. 
But  a  pecn^e  who  knew  the  use  of  metals,  and  the  art  of  coining  money ;  whose  me- 
chanical skill  was  equal  to  the  construction  of  war-chariots,  that  shook  the  legions  of 
Rome,  and  whose  manufactures  were  obiects  of  admiration  in  the  most  poUsned  na- 
tions, had  surely  advanced  considerably  beyond  the  first  stages  of  savage  life.  The 
dties  of  the  Bntons  are  indeed  described  as  miserable  structures ;  but  though  their 
buildings  were  not  calculated  for  duration,  their  fortresses  were  skilfully  constructed, 
and  ihSr  sacred  monuments  remain  to  the  prcisent  day  objects  of  admiration  with 
the  most  ingenious.  Their  military  tactics  were  respectable,  and  greatly  superior  to 
the  untutored  tumultuary  valoiu*  ascribe^  to  them  by  many  writers,  But  the  know- 
ledge and  erudition  possessed  by  the  Druids,  who  formed  a  numerous  dass  amongst 
the  Britons,  is  condusive  on  this  subject    Their  proficiency  in  morals  and  philosophy. 


VOL.  h 


O 


M  ANCESTRY  OF  THE 

and  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  indicates  a  high  degree  of  intellectual  refinement*.  Nor 
is  it  to  be  supposed  that  the  tribes  of  the  Ottadmi  and  Gadeni  were  inferior  to  others 
in  knowledge  and  civilization.  They  were  confederate  with  the  populous  and  pow- 
erful kingdom  of  the  Brigantes  ;  their  country  was  rich  in  minerals,  and  intersected 
by  roads  or  trackways,  and  they  poMesse4  teachers  and  legislators  of  the  same  Druidic 
order,  so  celebrated  in  the  wntmgs  of  Pliny,  Ciesar,  Strabo,  and  Diodorus  Siculus. 
If  they  had  not  adopted  the  art  of  agriculture,  their  numerous  woods  and  extensive 
forests  produced  abundance  of  fuel  and  pasturage,  for  many  parts  that  are  now  bar- 
ren wastes  were  then  doathed  with  treee  which  constituted  the  opulence  and  orna- 
ment of  the  country. 

When  the  ambitious  Romans  first  traversed  the  plains,  and  penetrated  the  forests  of 
Northimiberland,  many  of  the  aVuigine^  disdwning  ^avay,  retired  beyond  Cheviot, 
preferring  liberty  among  the  chewless  wastes  and  barrwi  mountains  of  other  regions 
to  the  fertility  of  their  native  land,  under  the  lash  of  a  conqueror.  It  was  these  gal- 
lant emigrants  that  first  assaulted  and  finally  contributed  to  overwhelm  the  Roman 
barriers  in  Britain. 

Those  who  remained  in  the  southern  districts  of  Northumberland,  and  stooped  to 

the  proud  crest  of  imperial  Rome,  became  incorporated  by  intermarriages  with  their 

foreign  masters.    The  practice  of  husbandry  was  introduced  in  the  fruitful  vale  of 

the  Tyne,  and  the  natives  forgot  much  of  the  opprobrium  of  subjugation  amidst  the 

mmfortj!  of  polished  life.    The  numerous  Roman  mrrisons  that  defended  the  Nor- 

Wiiers,  mu^t  have  greatly  in;^i<oved  and  adorned  the  neighbourhood  oi 

ts ;  and  theatres,  baths,  temples,  and  villas,  would  be  niunerous,  as  well  as 

,  and  camps.     But  though  we  conquered  were  artfully  trained  to  habits  of 

ndueed  to  adopt  the  learning  and  fashions  of  the  Romans,  yet  they  fcmdly 

\ve  renuenibrance  of  their  ancient  independence.    Like  Uie  other  Celtic 

Northumbrian  Britons  retained  an  invincible  attachment  to  their  own 

usages  and  languafe.    Considering  how  dosely  th^  were  connected  by  interest  and 

relationship  with  tae  Romans  for  upwards  of  three  hundred  and  sixty  years,  it  is 

wonderful  how  scrupulously  they  preserved  the  purity  of  their  ancient  tongue.    At 

the  era  of  the  Saxon  invasion,  the  language  of  Uie  Northumbrian  poets,  is  exactly 

similar  t^  IM^dd^,  or  M^in,  the  Caledonian.    This  aversion  to  tlie  intnisloo   of 

hostile  tongues  stiU  fonns  a  striking  filature  in  the  charact^  q£  thdr  undoubted  de* 

scendants  ui  the  present  age. 

The  arrival  o£  the  fierce  and  restless  Saxons  in  NcHihumb^-I^d  was  frilowed  by  a, 
succession,  of  severe  qonfiicbs.  The  courageous  but  divided  native*,  displayed  tha 
moit  imposing  heroism,  but  their  struflHfles  proMod,  laawntably  inefiectutd.  Ida  and 
hb  hanjy  fQlh>wers  succeeded  in  establishing  the  kiagdom  of  Benmaa.    The  nwre 

*  That  tlie  nortbern  Briton  a  knew  both  the  use  of  metala  and  the  art  of  the  patter,  ia  evident  from  the  du> 
coveriei  made  in  opening  aepulchral  caims  and  tunauli,— Gart&xi'j  Itin.  pL  50.  Iniro.  to  Border  Aaliq,  p.  IS. 
From  die  Coins  of  Cunobeline,  minted  before  the  Roman  ctmqueat,  it  appears  that  the  nativea  used  cbaii^ 
and  were  consequently  familiar  with  the  means  of  domestic  aGa]mmodati(>n.—Pegge'/£(4^y  on  Comu  ofCindi. 
The  eruclite  'Kmg  shews  the  labour,  skill,  and  cunning,  with  which  ^e  British  steengths  were  constructed.— 
Muiti.  Antiq.  vot.  1.  Their  towns  were  so  numerous,  that  ninetjr-two  are  commemorated  by  historians.— 
Rick,  tif  Ciren.  /(in. 


NOBTHVMBKIANB.  fi5 

Wtt^like  part  of  the  Northumbrian  Brkons  retired  mko  Walei^  oar  &dded  striog^h  ancl 
energy  to  the  British  states  of  Cumbria  and  Stratii-Clyde.  The  Romteiised  ii^bi- 
tants  in  the  Tale  of  the  Tyne  profattfaly  Moeived  the  yoke  more  mfldlyi  and  afterwanto 
formed  a  eonsidemble  part  of  the  AnglcvSaxoii  popuklson.  It  is  vrrong  to  mpposcr 
that  the  Britons  were  entirely  e:tpatriated  from  this  district ;  lor  as  few  women  l^i^e 
In'ought  from  Saxony,  the  new  comers,  of  course,  intermarried  with  the  nativoi. 
This,  indeed,  seems  eompletdy  established  by  the  laige  proportion  ttf  the  ancteiA  Btir 
tish*,  and  even  some  remains  of  the  Roman  tongues,  wmdi  are  miaJsd  with  tiafe  Ank 
glo  Saxon  dialect. 

The  Northuml^ian  population  experienced  another  change  frem  the  nutoeroits  bk^ 
dies  of  Danes  whidi  settled  in  tiiese  parts.  This  new  race,  however,  when  fest  esta^ 
Mished,  seem  to  have  formed  a  distinct  part  of  the  population ;  biit  the&r  desoeadantSy 
by  frequent  intermarriages^  lost  many  of  their  peculiarities. 

The  hardy  sons  of  the  frozen  wilds  of  Scandmavia,  who,  on  the  coasts  of  France 
and  Flanders,  were  designated  1^  the  general  smpelfation  of  Normans,  acquked  a  set^' 
tiement  in  this  county  under  the  auspices  of  Wuliam,  and  hnpaarted  a  nfew  character 
to  its  inhabitants.  The  habits  of  rough  independence,  retained  by  the  Northran-. 
brians,  gave  to  the  Conqueror  a  pretext  for  repeated  confiscations,  whkh,  driving 
away  the  Saxon  nobles  from  the  soil,  made  way  for  new  Norman  families,  who  spreeS 
rapidly  all  over  this  district.  Indeed,  the  ancient  English  famSies  became  now  ex- 
tinguished^  the  males  either  falling  in  battle,  in  the  civil  commotions,  or  emigrating 
to  avoid  the  punishment  of  their  own  rebellion,  whilst  the  heiresses  were  eagerly 
sought  after  by  the  Norman  adventurers,  in  order  to  give  them  a  further  security  in 
the  possession  of  their  lands.  Thus  it  appears  that  the  present  Northumbrians  are  the 
descendants  of  Saxons^  mixed  with  the  Danes,  and  what  remained  of  the  ancient  Cel- 
tic inhaUtants,  ^iridiied  by  the  Uood  oi  many  warlike  N(»inans. 

Those  AngkvSaxon  fraiilies  who  fled  from  the  exterminating  sword  of  the  Con- 
queror, with  many  of  the  Normans  themselves^  whom  discontent  and  intestine  feuds 
mid  driven  into  exile,  began,  at  a  later  period,  to  rise  into  eminence  on  the  Scottish 
Bordersf .    They  brought  with  them  airts  both  of  peace  and  war,  unknown  in  Scot- 

*  The  Saxons  borrowed  Beveral  of  their  significant  words  froth  the  ancient  British  language.  Bung^ 
briskit,  deck^  cowl,  each  (dung),  cawk,  claver,  daap,  dam,  dub,  dad,  etaiest,  girdle,  glos,  hether,  hem, 
hoot,  (inteijec)  knock,  knoll,  knell,  kenrp,  mattmy,  m&xl,  pease,  pkA,  pvcw,  withy— are  a  few  which  maj 
be  found  in  Owen's  Dictionary  and  Borlase's  CorhWHU.  Hie  tapograt^y  of  Northumberland  displays  a  great 
variety  of  British  appellations,  many  of  which  will  be  noticed  her^dter. 

f  The  Northumbrian  exiles  who  sought  an  asylikm  in  See<9ahd  obliged  grants  of  land  from  Malcolm, 
Edgar,  Alexander,  and  David  L  The  most  considenMe  fliiniiljs  were  the  Gospatrics,  Arkels,  Merleswanes, 
Siwards,  Thor-longues,  Umfravilles,  CvLvaytts,  Vesdes,  Mertimefs,  Rewek,  Norhams,  and  Grays.  In  the 
charters  of  these  kings  are  also  found  the  Sikxont>r  Nmnan  narirtjs  » XMSfcrd,  Redd,  Corbet,  Lindsay^  Percy, 
Brus,  Muschamp,  Thirlstane,  Mautdand,  Haig,  Ros^  Warewic,  Se^eierVifle,  Maxwell,  Soules,  Avenal,  Kdth, 
Quind,  Maul,  Berkdey,  Lundie,  Herris,  LockhaH,  Hiy,  Rttfliviti,'  Raifls^,  falconer,  Ker,  Cdeville,  Graham, 
Fraser,  Baliol,  Manners,  £dmunds«ton,  Burnet,  Nd[)le,  Boswdl,  CSlMitley,  Lascelles,  Bisit,  Grant,  Campbell, 
Aynsley,  Swan,  Livingston,  Mowberry,  Seton,  Moncrief,  WaBiiee>  Muloaster,  St  Clare,  or  Sinclare,  Orms, 
Stewart,  Sec,    Some  English, as  the  CuaniDgluuns,  Kinnairds,  Gordons;  and  Hamiltons  acquired  their  name  * 


5$  ANCESTRY  OF  THE 

land ;  and,  among  their  descendants  were  numbered  the  most  powerful  Bordar  etuefar 
Actuated  by  the  most  implacable  hatred  against  the  Norman  usurpers,  they  harassed 
them  with  perpetual  and  wasteful  inroads,  and  hence  •  the  Borders  became  the  stage 
upon  which  were  presented  the  most  memorable  coniticts  of  two  gallant  nations. 

This  general  feding  of  hostility  which  animated  l^e  Borderers,  was  cheri^ed  by 
the  prevalence  of  the  mannars  and  laws  of  the  aboriginal  Britons,  that  were  still  re- 
tained in  their  wilds,  forests,  and  mountains.  The  Celtic  system  of  septs,  or  dan- 
ships,  by  which  these  districts  were  distinguished,  remained  until  the  Union*,  The 
Saxon  and  Norman  settlers  seem  to  have  adopted  this  peculiarity  of  the  native  inha- 
bitants with  as  much  readiness  as  if  th^  had  descend^  from  Galgacus  or  Cadwalla- 
der.  The  riches  of  a  Border  chief  consisted  of  his  extensive  herds  and  flocks,  which 
were  consumed  in  the  rude  hospitality  of  his  castle.  The  yoimgest  and  most  active 
warriors  of  the  dan  resided  constantly  with  their  chief.    If  any  of  his  dansmen  sus- 

fton  their  poesenions,  and  ddken,  as  the  Maieschalt^  from  their  office.  Many  of  the  industriotti  and  spirited 
Flemings  settled  early  on  the  Borders,  or  in  o^hat  parts  of  North  Britain,  as  the  OougW,  Jixdans,  LonU 
mers,  Baldwins,  Levies,  Innis',  Murrays,  and  Suth^rl«nds,— jSee  ancknf  Charinleries  ^putted  by  Dugdak^ 
Cramford,  Douglas,  NUbU^  Chalmers^  4^. 

*  In  15S1,  the  Scottish  legislature  rendered  a  whole  dan  jointly  answerable,  in  the  way  of  retaliation  for  the 
delinqufneies  of  each  individual.  In  another  statute  passed  shortly  after,  the  chief  of  each  tribe  was  mado 
responsible  for  all  the  misdeeds  of  the  simame.  In  consequence  of  these  acts  a  roll  was  made  of  the  nobles 
barons  and  chieftains  residing  on  the  Borders.  In  this  liet  occurs  the  name  of  Stuart,  Kerr,  Douglas,  Scott, 
Turnbull,  Maxwell,  Chisholme,  Gordon,  Johnson,  Carruthers,  Jardine ;  also  the  Elliotts,  Armstrongs,  Beatties* 
Littles,  Thompsons,  Qlendinnings,  Irvings,  BeUs,  Johnsons,  Moffits,  and  Latimers.  The  Nixons,  Crosiers,  and 
Grahams,  inhabited  the  9ebateable  Land,  and  were  rather  English  than  Scottish  ckns.  In  addition  to  these 
may  be  added  the  following  list  <^ foraying  or  riding  clans,  from  Moneypenny's  Chronicle,  published  in  1597: 
The'Bromfields,  Trotters,  Dicksoas,  Redpaths,  Gradens,  Youngs,  Pringles,  Tates,  Middlemasts,  Bums,  Dag« 
leishs,  Davisons,  Pyles,  Robisons,  Ainslies,  Olivers,  Laidlaws,  Parks,  Hendersons,  and  Carlisles.  Another 
enumeration  of  die  Border  dans  is  put  by  Sir  David  Lindsay,  in  the  Partium,  a  druna,  into  the  mo|iA  of  d . 
Por^erer,  who  being  brought  to  condign  punishment,  takes  leave  of  bis.  conipanions  in  iniquity  }•«*• 

*'  Adieu  mj  brother  Annan  thieves^ 
^hat  helped  me  in  my  mischievea ; 
Adieu  Crossars,  Nicksons,  and  Bells, 
Ott  have  we  £ured  through  the  fells ; 
Adieu  Robsons,  Hanslies,  and  Pyles; 
That  in  our  craft  have  many  wOes, 
Littles,  Trumbvlls,  and  Armstrongs; 
Adieu  all  thieves  that  me  belongs ; 
Taylors,  Eurwings,  and  Elwands*, 
Speedy  of  foot  and  light  of  hands ; 
The  Scotts  of  EwesdaO,  and  the  Gtemes, 
I  have  |ia  time  to  tell  your  names  ; 
With  kifig  porrectioii  be  ye  fangit, 
Believe  right  sure  ye  wiU  be  hangit.*' 

*  Curwin^  if  Ir?jag«  sad  Elvsad  is  the  old  way  of  speOiDg  EBiott 


NOBTHUMBRIANS.  57 

injury,  he  was  obliged  to  seek  reireiige  and  defend  ''all  his  name,  kindred, 
maintainers^  aiftd  upholders/'  On  the  other  hand^  the  chief  of  the  dan  from  whom 
the  injury  had  proceeded^  was  e(]^ually  bound  in  honour  to  retaliate  whatever  injuiy 
the  opposite  party  might  inflict  in  their  thirst  of  vengeance.  This  species  of  feroci- 
ous animosity  was  termed  a  deadh/feud. 

The  Borderers,  whether  English  or  Scoteh,  were  equally  wily,  active,  and  rapaci- 
ous. The  rajnne  by  which  they  subsisted  tliey  accounted  lawful  and  honourable. 
Insecurity  rendered  them  indifferent  to  agriculture*,  and 

^^  The  tooming  faulds,  or  sweeping  of  a  glen, 
^^  Had  still  been  held  the  deeds  of  gallant  men.^ 

Their  cattle,  which  was  their  chief  property,  being  nightly  exposed  to  depredations, 
robbery  assumed  the  appearance  of  fair  reprisal.  Living  under  chiefs  by  whom  this 
predatory  warfare  was  countenanced,  and  scHnetimes  headed,  they  appear  to  have  had 
uttle  knowledge  of  the  light  in  whidi  their  actions  were  regarded  by  the  legislature, 
and  the  various  statutes  and  regulations  made  against  their  incursicHis,  remained  in 
most  cases  a  dead  letter.  Indeed,  the  impolitic  severity  of  the  laws  intended  to  change 
their  manners  and  habits  of  life,  seem  to  have  diminished  the  little  affection  they 
mi^ht  feel  for  the  proper  country  to  which  they  belonged.  So  little  did  they  regard 
then*  allegiance,  that  it  was  the  same  thing  to  toe  Borderers  whether  they  preyed  up- 
on  the  opposing  frontier  or  on  their  own  countrymen.  The  men  of  Tmdale  and 
Reedsdale  in  particular,  appear  to  have  been  more  frequently  tempted  by  the  rich 
vales  of  the  Bishopric  of  Durham,  and  other  districts  which  lay  to  the  southward^i 
than  by  the  rude  desolation  of  the  Scottkh  hills. 

The  Northumbrian  Borderers  were  held  aliens  by  the  "  good  men  of  Newcastle.** 
According  to  a  corporation  regulation,  no  burgess  should  take  to  his  apprentice  a 
youth  from  the  dales  of  Reed  or  Tynef .  Hie  wild  manner  of  these  dalesmen  are  tiius 
described  by  Gr^,  in  his  Chorography,  or  Survey  of  Newcastie,  published  in  1649  : 

"  There  is  many  dales,  the  chief  are  Tynedale  and  Reedsdale,  a  countrey  that  Wil- 
liam the  Con^uerour  did  not  subdue,  retaining  to  this  day  the  ancient  laws  and  cus^ 
toms,  (acoordmg  to  the  county  of  Kent)  whereby  the  lands  of  the  father  is  equally 

*  The  Borderer^  seem  to  have  been  accustomed  to  plunder  and  rapine  from  the  earliest  tiine.  Camden 
informs  us  that  the  Roman  troops  (who  were  principally  levied  in  Britain^  and  which  were  stationed  on  the 
northern  frontier),  made  retaliating  inroads  into  the  enemy's  Marches.  Mr.  Clarke,  in  his  Survey  of  the 
Lakes,  contends,  that  habits  of  rapine  arose  froni  the  necessities  of  situation.  **  The  eontempktioii  of  barren 
heaths,  bleak  rocky  mountains,  and  almost  impassable  jswamps  and  morasses,  will  naturally  fill  the  mind  with 
gloomy  and  onoomfbrtable  ideas,  fiut  when  the  inhabitant  has  his  daS^  sustenance  to  collect  from  these 
dreary  wilds,  he  will  alternately  starve,  plunder,  and  glnttonize."  Dr.  Falconer,  in  a  pq)er  puWshed  in  the 
Memoirs  of  the  Literary  Society  of  Manchester,  argues  that  the  sceintf^  of  a  country  has  the  greatest  share  m 
forming  the  manners  of  its  inhabitantis. 

• 

f  A  beggar  in  an  old  play  describes  himself  as  bom  in  Reedsdale,  and  oome  of  a  wight-riding  simame, 
oalled  the  Robsons,  good»  booest  men,  and  true,  saving  a  little  sk^Ungfur  their  living,  God  kelp  tkem^^ 
NoUe  to  ScMe  JMcehy, 

VOL.  I.  P 


/^ 


5B  ANCESTRY  OF  THE 

* 

divided  at  his  death  amongst  all  his  scmnes.  These  Highlanders  are  famous  fm  tinev^ 
ing ;  they  are  all  bred  up  and  live  by  theft.  They  come  down  from  these  dales  into 
the  low  countries,  and  carry  away  horses  and  cattell  so  cunningly,  that  it  will  be  hard 
for  any  to  get  them  or  their  cattell,  except  th^  be  acquainted  with  some  master 
thiefe,  who  for  some  mony  (which  they  call  saurey-mony)  may  help  them  to  their 
stolngoods,  or  deceive  them. 

**  There  is  many  every  yeare  brought  in  of  them  into  the  goale  of  Newcastle,  and 
at  the  Assizes  are  condemned  and  hanged^  sometimes  twenty  or  thirty.  They  forfeit 
not  their  lands,  (according  to  the  tenure  in  gavelkind)  the  father  to  bough,  the  sonne 
the  plough. 

''  The  people  of  this  countrey  hath  one  barbarous  inistome  amongst  them ;  if  any 
two  be  displeased,  thev  expect  no  lawe,  but  bang  it  out  bravelv,  one  and  his  kindred 
against  the  other  and  his ;  the)r  will  subject  themselves  to  no  justice,  but  in  an  inhu- 
mane and  barbarous  manner  i^ht  and  kill  one  another ;  they  run  together  in  clangs 
(clans)  as  they  terme  it,  or  names.  This  fi^rhting  they  call  their  feids,  or  d^dly  feides, 
a  word  so  barbarous  that  I  cannot  express  it  in  any  other  tongue.  Of  tate,  since  the 
union  of  both  kingdoms,  this  heathenesh  bloody  custom  is  repressed,  and  good  laws 
made  against  such  barbarous  and  unchristian  nusdemeanours  and  fightings.*' 

The  following  character  of  the  Dalesmen,  or  Borderers,  is  faithfmly  and  accurately 
drawn : — "  What  manner  of  cattle  stealers  they  are,"  says  Camden,  "  that  inhabit 
these  valleys  in  the  marches  of  both  kingdoms,  John  Lesley,  a  Scotchman  himself, 
and  Bishop  of  Ross,  will  inform  you.  xney  sally  out  of  their  own  borders,  in  the 
night,  in  troops,  through  imfrequented  bye-ways,  and  man;^  intricate  windings.  AU 
the  day  time  niey  refresh  themselves  and  their  horses  in  lurlang-holes  they  hadpitched 
upon  before,  till  the^  arrive  in  the  dark  at  those  places  they  have  a  design  upon.  As 
soon  as  they  have  seized  upon  the  booty,  they  m  like  manner  return  home  in  the 
night,  through  blind  ways,  and  fetching  many  a  compass.  The  more  skilful  any 
captain  is  to  pass  through  the  wild  deserts,  crooked  tummgs,  and  deep  precipices,  in 
the  thickest  mists  and  darkness,  his  reputation  is  the  greater,  and  he  is  looked  upon 
as  a  man  of  an  excellent  head.  And  they  are  so  very  cunning,  that  they  seldom  have 
their  booty  taken  from  them,  unless  sometimes,  when,  by  the  help  of  blood-hounds 
following  them  exactly  upon  the  tract,  they  may  chance  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  their 
adversaries.  When  being  taken,  they  have  so  much  persuasive  eloquence,  and  so 
many  smooth  insinuating  words  at  command,  that  if  they  do  not  move  their  judges, 
nay,  and  even  their  adversaries  (notwithstan^ng  the  severity  of  their  natures),  to  have 
mercy f  yet  they  incite  them  to  admiration  and  compassion." 

The  colour  of  the  Borderer^s  doathes  resembled  brown  heath,  or  a  cloudy  evening, 
in  wder  to  be  less  liable  to  observation  during  their  Raids.  In  general  they  acted  as 
Ught  cavalry,  riding  horses  of  a  small  size,  but  astonishingly  nimble  and  well  trained. 
From  this  circumstance  they  were  called  Prickers.  Those  who  acted  as  infantry,  were 
equally  famed  for  skill  and  courage.  As  archers  they  displayed  the  most  amazing 
dexterity*;  and  when  they  dosed  their  onset  was  furious.    In  all  their  encounters 

*  The  custom  of  poaching^  oocarioned  by  the  severe  game  laws  of  the  Conqueror^  produced  the  noted 
forchen  and  outkws  of  Sherwood  Forest    The  continual  practice  of  hunting  and  war  on  the  Borders,  were 


NORTHUMBRIANS.  59 

they  majntamed  the  character  of  honour,  oonrage,  and  gaierositv,  assigned  to  them 
by  Froisaart.  "  Enj^lishmen  on  the  one  party,  and  Scotsmen  on  the  other  party,  are 
good  men  of  war ;  for  when  they  meet,  there  is  a  hard  fight  without  sparing :  there 
is  no  hoo  (i.  e.  cessation  for  parley)  between  them,  as  long  as  spears,  swords,  axes,  or 
daggers  will  endure ;  but  they  lay  on  each  upon  other,  and  when  they  be  well  beaten, 
and  that  the  one  party  hath  obtained  the  victory,  they  thai  glorify  so  on  their  deeds 
of  arms,  and  are  so  joyful,  that  such  as  be  taken  they  shall  be  ransomed  ere  they  go 
out  of  the  field ;  so  that  shortly  each  of  them  is  so  content  with  other,  that  at  their 
departing  courteously,  they  will  say,  *  God  thank  you !'  But  in  fighting  one  with 
another,  there  is  no  play,  nor  sparing." 

The  martial  dans  of  the  Boiders  were  always  prepared  and  eager  for  war.  At  the 
blaze  of  their  beacons  they  hastened  to  the  place  of  rendezvous,  alike  prepared  for  at- 
tack or  defence,  while  the  mountains  echoed  with  the  Slogan,  or  Shtgham.^    Their 

also  favourable  to  the  exerdse  of  archery,  Adam  Bell,  Clym  of  the  Cleogh,  Wylljam  of  Cloudealej  Watty  of 
Croglin,  Woodhead  Andrew^  Robin  o'th'  Moors^  and  Gruff  EUeck,  were  all  distinguished  as  archers^  amongst 
a  people  expert  in  the  art,  and  their  praises  are  preserved  in  our  old  ballads.  Some  of  their  exploits  may  ap» 
pear  incredible,  but  it  has  been  proved  that  the  bow  is  nearly  equal  in  certainty  to  a  rifle  gun.  The  Scotch 
excelled  in  the  use  of  the  spear,  and,  except  the  Borderers,  neglected  the  bow.  At  the  battle  of  Homeldoa 
it  is  recorded,  that  no  armour  could  resist  the  arrows  of  the  English  Borderers^  though  that  of  Earl  Douglas 
and  his  associates  had  been  three  years  in  making.  The  bow  was  made  from  the  bole  of  the  yew-tree ;  was 
generally  five  feet  eight  inches  long,  with  a  bend  of  about  nine  inches.  The  string  was  either  silk  or  hemp^ 
twisted  or  plated,  but  always  round  where  the  notch  of  the  arrow  was  placed.  The  arrow  was  made  of  ash, 
oak^  or  birch,  and  those  used  for  war  were  thirty-two' inches  long,  with  a  sharp  unbarbed  head.  The  shafl 
was  a  goose's  feather.  The  arrow  was  drawn  to  the  head,  and  always  towards  the  ear  when  shot  at  short 
marks,  but  towards  the  breast  when  shot  at  rovers,  or  long  marks.  The  archers  did  not  wink  with  one  eye> 
but  kept  both  open,  and  looked  at  the  mark  only.-^JPor  much  inieresHng  informaHon  on  Archery,  see  Roger 
Aschanfs  ToxophiUu,  pubUshed  in  1544. 

*  Slkghom  is  the  war«cry,  or  gathering  word  of  a  dan.  It  was  also  used  as  a  watch-word  by  which  indi- 
viduals  of  the  same  dan  recognised  each  other,  either  amidst  the  darknww  of  ni^t,  or  the  confusion  of  bat- 
tle. Dr.  Jamieson  has  offeredL  various  conjectures  respecting  the  origin  of  this  word,  bat  firom  Somner  we 
learn  it  is  Saxon.  AcoorcUng  to  Chalmers,  the  war-cry  of  dans  was  adopted  from  the  andent  Britons.  Few 
of  die  Slughoms  of  the  gaUant  Northumbrians  have  been  preserved,  though  at  one  time  they  made  every 
heart  bum  with  ardour;  every  hand  grasp  a  weapon;  and  every  foot  to  hasten  to  the  rendesvous^  Thua 
in  the  Raid  of  Reidswir^— 

'    ''  Then  raise  the  Slogan  with  ane  sdiout, 
''  Fy,  TindaU  to  it !  Jedburgh's  here." 

And  again,  in  the  Li^  of  the  Last  Minstrel— 

Our  Slogan  is  their  lyke-wake  dirge. 
Our  moat  the  grave  where  they  shall  lie." 

Andent  fimiilies,  after  the  change  of  customs,  converted  their  war-cries  into  mottoes.  The  custom  of  ve* 
peating  the  Slughom  seems  to  have  offended  an  old  author,  who  expresses  his  compUints  as  follow  :— 

''  That  whereas  alweys,  both  in  all  tonnes  of  war,  and  in  al  campes  of  armies,  quietnes  and  stflnes  witlu 
out  nob  is  prindpally  in  the  night,  after  the  watch  is  set,  observed.  (I  need  not  reason  why).  Yet  our 
northern  prikkers,  the  Borderers,  notwithstanding,  with  great  enonnitie,  (as  tboog^t  me)  and  not  unlyke 


St 


60  ANCESTRY  OF  THE 

usual  and  secret  incursions  wexe^  however,  marked  with  the  desire  of  spoil  ratiier  than 
of  slaughter.  Bloodshed  was  avoided,  as  it  occasioned  a  deadly  feud  between  two 
dans,  whereas  the  abstraction  of  property  was  only  considered  a  trivial  provocation. 

The  Borderers  were  the  most  true  of  faith  to  whatever  they  had  pledged  their  in* 
dividual  word,  though  they  ^^  would  not  care  to  steale,  yet  they  would  not  bewray 
any  man  that  trusts  in  them  for  aU  the  gold  in  Englsjid  and  France.''  This  high 
sense  of  honour  tended  much  to  soften  the  rigour  of  war.  Whofi  a  Borderer  took  a 
prisoner,  he  sim^y  accepted  his  word  to  surrender,  or  pay  his  ransom  at  or  before  a 
stated  time.  Notwithstanding  their  mutual  hostility  and  reciprocal  depredations,  a 
natural  intercourse  took  place  between  the  English  and  Scottish  Marchers,  at  Border 
meetings,  and  during  the  short  intervals  of  peace.  They  met  frequently  at  parties  of 
tile  cihaee  and  foot-ball;  and  it  required  many  and  strict  regulations  on  both  sides  to 
prcrvent  them  from  forming  intermarriages,  aiod  from  cultivating  too  dose  a  degree  of 
mtimacy.  The  Borderers  were  very  particular  in  forming  connections.  A  stout  man 
would  not  marry  a  little  woman  were  she  ever  so  rich ;  and  an  Englishman  was  pro^ 
hiUted  by  the  March  laws  from  marrying  a  Scotchwoman,  were  she  ever  so  honest. 
The  Scottish  Borderers  observed  the  same  rules,  and  were  subject  to  similar  laws.  The 
Custom  also  of  paying  black-nunl^  or  protection-rent,  introduced  a  connection  which 
counteracted  in  many  Instances,  the  effects  of  national  prejudice. 

The  females  on  the  Borders  being  &miliar  with  scenes  of  hazard,  blood,  and  death, 
caught  the  warlike  spirit  of  the  country.  Fair  maiden  Liltiard  was  a  heroine  of  this 
description,  and  also  the  lady  who  in  derision  wiped  with  her  handkerchief  the  part  of 
the  castle  wall  struck  by  stones  thrown  from  the  engines  of  the  besiegers.  Dacres,  in 
the  conflict  fought  near  Naworth,  (A.  D.  1570),  had,  according  to  Holfingshed,  "  many 
desperate  women,  who  there  gave  the  adventure  of  their  lives^and  fought  right  stoutly.'* 
The  Borderers,  however,  as  has  been  observed,  merited  the  devoted  attachment  of 
their  wives,  for  most  of  the  wealth  obtained  by  plunder,  was  bestowed  in  omamait* 
ingthe  persons  of  their  partners. 

The  Bordefers  were  extremely  temperate  in  food  and  liquors,  and  rarely  tasted 
those  of  an  intoxicatiiig  quality*  Eneas  Silviua  (afterwards  Pope  Pius  II.)  has 
fltvoi  some  curious  particulars  respecting  them,  which  he  witnessed  on  his  pass«> 
mg  through  Northumbcrhmd  in  his  road  to  Scotland,  in  the  c^racter  of  a  leeate, 
ID  the  year  1448.  Having  arrived  at  some  large  village  near  the  Tweed,  **both 
men  and  women  flocked  about  him  as  to  some  new  sight;  and  as  we  gaze  at 
Negroes  or  Indians,  so  did  they  stare  at  Eneas,  asking  whether  he  was  a  Chris- 
tian.'* When  the  stranger  at  supper  laid  •*  some  kuives  and  a  measure  of  red 
wine"  on  the  table,  "  the  company  Was  sefesed  with  great  astonishment,  having  never 
seen  wine  or  white  bread"    The  whole  was  distributed  amongst  thenu    An  alarm 

(to  be  plajn)  unto  a  roasterless  bounde  bouyling  in  a  hie  wey,  when  he  hadi  lost  him  he  wayted  upon,  sum 
boopying,  sum  whistelying^  and  most  with  crying  a  Serwyke  !  a  Berwyke  f  a  Fenwyhe  !  a  Fenwyke  !  a  Buhner  / 
m  iitiAii^  f  6tm  dotherwise  lur  tktyr  Capteln's  names  wear,  nerer  Hmide  those  troublotts  and  dangerous  ney ses 
all  the  night  lotig.  They  wBif6  tbey  did  it  ia  fynd  out  tlieiv  Captein  latA  fellowes,  but  if  the  soldidun  of  oof> 
Qot])«r  ooumlrtea  and  sbms  hid  usad  (ha  sam*  iiian«r,.  in  that  earn  we  should  have  oltymes  had  the  state  of 
oar  Ofupifpe  moie  l|ike  the  eiytitage  of  a  dissolute  huntyng,  than  tb^  <|uiet  pf  a  weV  Oidredarm;;^."-— jVi^qa'^  Aq^ 


\ 


NOflTHUW^IAHe.  61 

being  given*,  tlie  men  mA  fdiildreii  fled  "^  tp  a  town  a  great  way  off,  for  fear  of  the 
Scots.'^    Tliey  could  not,  however^ ''  be  prevailed  on  to  take  Eneas  with  them,  or  any 
of  the  wcHnen,  though  many  of  them  were  young  an4  handsome,  for  they  think  them 
in  no  danger  frcxn  an  enemy,  not  considerinjg  violence  offered  to  women  as  any  harm  !** 
Men  living  in  so  rude  a  state  oi  society,  it  may  be  easily  supposed^  had  little  re- 
HgioD.    The  usurpation  of  the  Scottish  crown  by  Edward  I.  augmented  the  savage 
and  bioody  spirit  of  hostility,  and  varipus  religioii^  bouses,  which  the  piety  of  an 
earlier  age  had  founded  on  the  ^Borders,  we^  vepeatedly  destroyed  and  laid  waste. 
Thus  the  administration  pf  rdigious  rites  became  >inus]^  and  irregular  in  these  wfld 
districtsf .  Uncanonioil  chuiphmen  son^etin^e^  attended  the  warlike  Borderers,  as  Friar 
Tuck  is  said  to  have  dcMie  uppn  Robva  IfaQcly  partpok  in  their  spoils,  and  mingled 
with  tiie  reliques  of  barbarism  the  ritnes  aqd  /Qerjemonies  of  the  christian  churchy, 
Bidiard  Fox^  bishop  of  Durham,  in  a  paatcNral  monition  dated  sometime  between  the 
years  1490  and  149S,  cconplainfi  th^t  tivs  rites  and  saeneanents  of  the  church  were  ado 
ministered  by  irregular  ana  dissolute  clergymen  to  the  thieves,  robbers,  murderers, 
and  dtpredatoors  of  the  Reed  and  Tyne.    Many  of  the  offenders,  it  seems,  of  the  clans 
of  Chaneton,  Robaon,  Tod,  Hwter,  and  others,  wene  exoxnmunicated  by  the  bishop* 
The  poiance  annexed  to  their  reiease  tsoxq^  spiritual  censure,  was  a  prohibition  from 
wearmg  Hkejaci  and  head-fiieoei  ^ipag  a  bcvse  of  ahoive  six  shillings  and  eight-pence 
value ;  and  entering  a  church  or  chapel  fuUy  armed,  or  conversing  in  these  hallowed 
precinets.    But  this  tras  m  eKtmorcmwy  6:|certion  of  clerical  authority,    Cressinff^ 
Dam,  a  priest,  never  wore  any  co^t  but  tlr  iron  one  in  which  he  wad  killed ;  andBedK^ 
the  bishop  of  Carlisle,  was  so  turl^tde nt,  that  the  king  to  restrain  him,  deprived  him 
of  the  livin«  of  Penrith  and  Simonbunk 

Our  Noruiumbcian  Borderers  did  not  indokntly  vi^tate  upon  their  sterile  moun- 
tnns.  The  hswds  of  rapine  were  9^vf»  tihoc^  folud  m  inactivity,  nor  the  sword  of 
violence  retiuned  to  the  scabbard.    Each  warrior  might  with  justice  exclaim — 


*'  My  sword,  my  spear,  my  shaggy  shielcl, 
♦•  Tney  make  me  ford  of  all  below*,* 


*  The  smaller  harons  on  the  Borders  held  their  lands  and  towers  ftir  the  service  of  windmg  a  horn  to  inti- 
DMiSe  the  aDmoaah  <£  the  flenttiBh  macaudecs : 

*^  At  whose  tif^t 


mm^ 


«  So  oft  tiM  yeamaii  had  in  di^s  of  yore, 

''  €iiMin9  his  ^fmahm^  temws^  ii»oun4  ^  boKiu^ 

This  ancient  tenure  was  a  species  of  grand  seijeantry^  which  continued  till  the  req;n  ef  C^arlSs  IL    Ait  eld 
rental  calls  comage  newtgeldi,  q.  d.  neat-gekL    Lord  Coke  sjays^  in  old  books,  it  is  oaUed  hfrugpU, 

t  A  numl^  ftom  Melros^  called  fVom  the  breviary  which  he  wore  in  his  breast,  a  ftoot.d'faiqwi,  visited  the 
datea-offisk^  Euse,  and  Liddle,  once  a  year,  and  solemnized  marriages  and  baptismsi  Tliis  is  said  t^bsrve 
given  rise  to  a  custom  called  hand-fastings  by  which  a  loving  couple,  too  impatient  to  awaft  the  tiMlj^  arrival 
of  tbia^nas(^  WWnM^i  to  live  as  man  fnd  wife  in  the  interinv—Zn/ro.  to  Border  Antiq.  p.  S6, 

%  Swyw'  KiA  of  Duri^^,  vol },  p-  l^ii 
VOL,  I,  Q 


62  ANCESTRY  OF  THE 

A  people  continually  achieving  the  most  hazardous  adventures,  would  naturally  he 
fond  of  the  legends  of  their  own  exploits*  Accordingly  the  Borderers  excelled  irt 
poetry  and  music,  as  is  proved  hy  the  remains  preserved  of  both.  Their  music  like 
that  of  the  Scotch  Highlanders,  has  a  strong  tinge  of  rude,  impressive  melandioly  ; 
and  their  poetry  evinces  high  feeling,  daring  resolution,  and  natural  hmnour. 

During  those  times  of  desolating  warfare,  the  heads  of  branches  of  dans,  or  distinct 
families  on  the  Borders,  dwelt  in  massive  towers,  or  bastle  houses,  surrounded  by- 
some  rude  sort  of  fortification,  and  which  could  neither  be  effectually  ruined  by  fire, 
nor  thrown  down  by  force.  Such  were  the  towers  of  Fenwick  and  of  Widdrington* 
These  strengths  were  sufficient  to  resist  a  desultory  attack ;  but  when  a  regular  army 
approached,  the  leader  and  his  followers  fled,  and  left  their  habitations  to  the  fate  of 
war.  Wherever  the  mountains  receded  arose  castles  magnificently  adorned,  and  skil- 
fully fortified.  Alnwick,  Warkworth,  and  Bambrou^,  were  all  castles  of  great 
baronial  splendour  and  strength,  besides  others  in  various  parts  of  the  county,  which 
indicated  the  superior  wealth,  power,  and  refinement  of  their  possessors! .  In  addi«^ 
tion  to  the  chain  of  royal  and  baronial  castles  which  defended  the  northern  fit>ntiers, 
Berwick,  Newcastle,  and  Hexham,  were  strongly  fortified,  and  well  garrisoned. 

This  brief  review  of  the  character  and  manners  of  the  Borderers,  will  be  properly 
followed  by  a  slight  notice  of  those  measures  of  policy  adopted  for  restrainmg  and 
nishing  their  lawless  habits  and  pursuits^. 

The  government  of  the  Borders  was  entrusted  to  officers  of  high  rank,  entitled 
Wardens  or  Guardians  of  the  Marches^.  There  were  sometimes  two,  sometimes  three 
on  each  side ;  for  the  divisions  of  the  Borders  into  east,  west,  and  middle  Marches, 
did  not  prevent  the  middle  Marches  being  occasionally  put  under  the  charge  of  the 
same  warden  who  governed  those  in  the  east  or  west.  The  potent  Earls  of  Nor- 
thumberlmid  and  Westmoreland,  the  Lords  Cliffi>rd,  Dacre,  ana  other  chiefs  of  power 


*  The  ancient  songs  of  the  English  Borderers  contain  the  best  and  most  authentic  description  of  their 
feats,  spirit,  amusements,  and  manners.  But  our  old  ballads  have  not  received  the  attention  due  to  their  im- 
portance. There  still  remauis  a  rich  harvest  in  Northumberland,  to  reward  the  labours  of  the  carious  and 
industrious  antiquary. 

f  The  wars  which  raged  in  the  thirteenth  century,  between  ihe  ambitious  English  and  the  patriotic  Seott, 
were  urged  with  peculiar  fury  on  the  Borders.  The  Scots  being  inferior  to  their  enemies  in  the  adenoe  of 
fortification,  dismantled  or  destroyed  their  fWmtier  caades,  and  adopted  a  devasUting  and  unoompromiaing 
system  of  defensive  war.  While  the  English  were  Ineffectually  attempdng  to  bring  their  opponents  to  battle 
iti  Scotland,  the  Scotch  Ibices  would  suddenly  burst  into  Nordmmberland^  Durham,  and  Cumberland,  watt- 
ing, slaying,  and  burning,  without  mercy.— -Froif.  Crony,  v.  H  p.  S7* 

%  Much  interesting  information  on  this  subject  will  be  found  in  Redpath's  Border  History ;  Sadler*s  State 
Papers;  Nicholson  and  Bum's  History  of  Westmoreland  and  Cumberland;  Clarke's  Survey  of  the  Lakes  ; 
The  Bord^  Antiquities ;  Surteea'  History  of  Durham ;  and  the  Notes  to  the  Poetical  Works  of  Sir  W,  Scott. 

§  March  is  the  same  as  mark— it  signifies  a  boundary.  The  title  of  Marquis  originated  in  the  office  of 
Warden  of  the  Marches.  The  English  Borders  were  divided  into  three  Marches.  The  western  March  ex- 
tended from  the  western  sea  to  Tindale.  The]  middle  March  compriaed  Tindale  and  Reedsdale ;  and  the 
eastern  March  reached  from  Reedsdale  to  Tweedmouth. 


NORTHUMBRIANS.  6$ 

6ti  the  Border^  usually  extorted  from  flie  crown  Hme  office  of  wardenry*.  The  war- 
den of  the  east  Marches  generally  resided  at  Alnwick  or  Berwick.  Upon  the  middle 
Marches  the  castle  of  Harbottle  was  judged  a  suitable  residence  for  the  warden.  Lord 
Scroop,  when  warden  of  the  west  Mardies,  resided  at  Carlisle ;  but  Lord  William 
Howard  occupied  his  baronial  castle  of  Newark,  when  he  had  the  same  commission. 

The  wardens  were  entrusted  with  the  maintenance  of  law  and  good  order  amongst 
the  inhabitants  of  their  jiuisdiction ;  and  the  amicaUe  relations  betwixt  them  and  uie 
opposite  frontier.  But  the  fiery  and  jealous  Border  chieftains  often  employed  their 
power  less  for  the  preservation  of  peace,  than  for  inflictmg  vengeance  upon  their  own 
private  enemies.  From  the  reisn  of  Henry  VIII.  the  offices  of  wardenry  were  con- 
ferred upon  men  of  political  and  military  skill,  as  Sir  Ralph  Sadler,  Sir  Jame$  Crofts» 
and  Sir  Robert  Cary,  and  others  whose  power  was  supported  by  considerable  bodies 
of  regular  troopsf .  The  wardens  held  courts,  but  offenders  were  frequently  hanged 
without  any  process  of  law  whatsoever.  When  marauders  were  once  seized  upon, 
their  doom  was  sharp  and  short.  The  next  tree,  or  the  deepest  pool  of  the^  nearest 
stream,  were  indifferently  used  on  these  occasions.  These  summary  executions  added 
another  feature  to  the  reckless  and  careless  .character  of  the  Borderers,  who  were  thuii 
accustomed  to  part  with  life  with  the  utmost  indiffisrenoe. 

The  wardens  occasionally  assumed  the  power  of  waging  war  or  concluding  truces. 
To  prevent  measures  of  forcible  retaliation,  which  would  render  the  Borders  a  con- 
stant scene  of  uproar  and  bloodshed,  matters  of  difficult  proof  were  referred  to  the 
judgment  of  Grod  in  single  combat  All  persons  in  England  and  Scotland,  of  what- 
ever rank  or  degree,  even  including  the  clergy,  and  only  excepting  the  sovereign  and 
certain  bishops,  might  be  appealed  to  battle  on  the  Marches.  If  the  accused  party 
denied  the  charge  of  robbery,  there  was  no  alternative  but  the  combat ;  and  the  injured 
must  enter  the  usts  either  personally  or  by  a  delegated  champion. 

When  convenient,  the  English  and  Scotch  wardens  held  days  of  truce,  with  great 
pomp  and  solemnity,  for  examining  the  bilh^  or  complaints  tendered  on  each  side. 
If  the  accused  were  judged  guilty,  the  bills  were  said  to  he  filedy  orjhtded;  if  the 
compkdnt  was  dismissed,  the  bill  was  said  to  be  cleaned.  Finally,  the  damages  on 
each  side  were  siunmed  up,  and  a  balance  struck ;  but  full  satisfaction  seems  to  have 
been  seldom  exacted  by  either  party.  These  March-truces  were  very  often  converted 
into  scenes  of  battle  and  bloodsned|.  Sometimes  also  the  angry  and  fierce  wardens, 
on  either  or  both  sides,  resenting  some  real  or  supposed  denial  of  justice,  endeavoured 
to  obtain  satisfaction  by  ridings  or  making  incursions  on  the  opposite  country. 

*  The  kings  of  Scotland  were  also  compelled  to  deposit  the  charge  of  warden  trith  some  chieftain  who  pos* 
sessed  great  influence  in  the  districts  submitted  to  his  jurisdiction.  The  iregent,  Albany^  during  the  minority 
of  James  V.^  attempted  to  remedy  this  evil  by  naming  a  gaHant  French  knight,  Anthony  d'Arcy  Sieur  de  k 
Bastie,  to  the  wardenry  of  the  east  Marches.  The  Homes  had  usually  filled  this  office ;  and  Home  of  Wed* 
derbum  assailed  and  murdered  the  foreign  warden,  cut  off  his  head,  knitted  it  to  his  saddle-bow  by  the  long 
locks,  and  afterwards  exposed  it  upon  the  battlements  of  Home  castle. 

t  Sadler's  State  Papers,  to).  iL  p.  97,  and  276- 

%  In  the  year  1511,  Sir  Robert  Kerr,  of  Cessford,  warden  of  the  middle  Marches,  while  at  a  March-meet- 
ing, was  struck  through  with  a  lance  by  the  bastard  Heron,  an  English  Borderer.    In  the  year  1585,  the 


64  AirCESTRY  OF  THE 

In  order  to  repel  the  roinoua  and  wastefoi  monrricosifi  of  tiie  Moes-troopcvs  iip<m 
both  sides,  the  Border  laws  aUomd  die  wardens  c^  ettfaw  rralra,  or  tiiose  duly  9ii&>« 
fixed  hj  ^eoky  to  pursue  offimders  uilo  Une  prednete  of  the  nctghboariiiK  country  by 
the  b4^t4rod.  This  pursuit  was  maintained  vitii  a  Hghted  piece  of  turf  eanried  on  a 
spear,  witii  hue  and  cry,  buffle-hom,  and  Ueodhound*.  On  the  cry  bdng  raised,  aU 
were  obliged  to  follow  the  my,  cor  chaee.  But  Has  mode  of  rediess  was  generally 
found  so  haaardotts  and  ineffectual^  that  most  people  c£  substunoe  preferred  paying  a 
fee  called  m^/^-iMia^,  to  the  eaptasn  of  the  hand,  to  reoover  the  goods  stolen. 

liie  wretdfied  oondMaon  of  the  Borders  preTious  to  tine  Union,  may  be  infSerred 
£rom  the  roemj  hundreds  tiiat  were  contimalfy  emplt^ed  hi  night^watdshes,  &t  stt  the 
fords,  passes,  and  inlets  to  the  Tallies*  These  mot  acbially  upoci  gwd  wcce  oUiged 
at  aU  hours  to  rise  and  follow  the  fnqrf.  ^  Mamj'^  saya Gardiner,.  (£ng.  Grier.  {)« 129.> 
^  have  admired  the  poveity  of  Northumheriand^  aa  vefl  they  may,  for  what  with  the 
bloody  tyrants  the  oeots,  on  tiie  north  of  that  poer  eountcT,  and  the  oppvessive  cor* 
poration  of  Newcastle  on  the  south  thereof^  faounded  in  with  hi^  lands  on  ^  WMt. 
and  tiie  sea  on  the  east,  it  can  get  ncAhing  but  strakes  and  wocned  ont  of  what  th^ 
have^  not  being  tcderated  to  m  we  use  of  tbesr  earn  eoM,  and  blasts  &om  the  sea^" 

Mr  Pennant,  reflecting  upon  tiie  inxprarred  oondation  of  the  Bocderaes^  in  these 
peaeelul  days,  exchdms,-— ^  What  pleasing  times  to  those  that  UMiy  bs  faraught  in 
contrast  \  whcm  erery  hoose  was  made  defensihle,  and  4BBoh  owner  ganrisoned  agi4n3t 
his  ndgbbour ;  when  revenge  at  uxe  time  dictated  an  inroad,  and  neeessily  at  an0» 
ther ;  when  the  mistress  of  a  castle  has  preaented  her  sons  with  their  spurs  to  remind 
them  that  her  larder  was  empty ;  and  that  by  a  foray  they  must  supply  it  at  th^  ex^ 
pence  of  the  B(xpderers ;  when  eveiy  eiremng  the  sheep  were  taken  ftam  the  hUk,  wtd 

ScoU,  during  a  March  tnioi,  anddsiily  sMdtsd  <he  Eogfiat^  ap^l  4sw  Sit  Ffiipdt  Russell.  Ja«i^  IV.  Kii^ 
of  Scotland^  sent  FemSiutst  mto  fini^cl  to  aaswer  tm  t(ii«  crmt»  Fa»wiek,  ai  i^Usto^^>  a|ipcifu«d 
lif^ainst  Femiikurst^  but  ^ocild  pfci9«iw  no  Scotaosn  6a  a  wito^sa.  %  the  BokUt  la^^  aooe  but  4  Scqt  coiUd 
be  admitted  a  witness  agaisst  a  Sept ;  and  iwoe  but  en  EojMshman  l^iiwt  en  £ngli«luxii|Du  The  affnf  of 
tbs  Beidawive  will  be  noljced  hf reaftec. 

*  A  sw^  w^  of  stopping  tbia  dog  vas  to  «p31  Uopd  'spon  tbo  tiact»  whiph  <ie^M;<^ei  tbe  discrbniiutiDf 
fiinenoss  of-tbo  4C«9t    A  captivo  wessomeliniea  stvadfioed  on  sueb  iHrcasiAD*-^^^  of  tie  Last  Mmitcl,  cant^ 

*'  The  russet  blood-hound  wont,  near  Annand'a  streain^     . 
^^  To  trace  the  sly  thief  with  avenging  fool^ 
<' Close  as  an  evil  conscience  still  at  hand.** 

Oui  ancknt  ^tAtMtos  inllpim  us^  that  the  blood-hound,  or  sluith-hound,  (so  called  from  its  quafity  of  tracing 
the  slot,^  or  tr^o^  of  men  and  animals)  was  early  used  in  the  pursuit  and  detection  of  mauradets*.  NuHtit 
padf/^fst^  01^1  •  impediat  sanem  trojiganUm  aut  homnes  ircumntes  cum  ipso  ad  sequendum  latrcnts^^It^tavik 
MafegMem,  lib*  4ius.  C^p.  3S,  And  /Balate  aa  1616,  there  was  an. order  from  the  king's  commissioners  for 
the  northern  counties,  that  a  certain  number  of  sloqgh-hpunds  should  be  maintained  in  every  district  of  Cum^ 
berland,  bordering  upon  Scotland.  The  breed  of  this  sagacious  animal,  which  could  trace  the  human  footstep 
ivith  the  niQst  unerring  accuracy,  is  no««  aeavly  extmct. 

t  Bp*  Nii^  Bor4or  l^w^pc^C^wuii    Bnd  ^Q. 


N0RTHUMBWA3JS.  AS 

the  datile  fiom  tkeir  pastcope,  to  %e  secured  «  the  lower  floor  from  robbers  pvawliag 

iike  wohFes  for  prey ;  and  ti^e  disappointed  tlikf  found  aU  in  s^^ 

tfae  cautknis  omier.    The  following  simple  lines  ^e  a  tnie  piotore  of  the  times  :«- 


*^  Then  Johiiie  Armstrong  to  Willie  gan  say  Then  tbe^yre  come  on  to  HuttoA  faa, 

Billie,  a  riding  then  will  we :  They  ride  that  proper  place  about  i 

England  and  us  have  been  long  at  feud.  But  the  Laird  ne  was  the  wiser  man, 

Pemaps  we  may  hit  on  some  bootie.  Por  he  had  left  na  geir  without. 

"  These  were  the  exploits  of  petty  robbers ;  but  when  princes  dictated  an  inroad, 
the  consequences  bore  a  proportion  to  their  rank*/* 

In  consequence  of  the  union  of  the  two  crowns,  hostilities  between  the  Borderers  of 
Northumberland  and  Scotland  ceased ;  but  many  of  the  Moss-troopers  continued  their 

*  The  reciprocal  slaughters,  burnings,  devastations,  und  cruelties^  committed  upon  the  Borders  of  5bth 
countries,  would  fill  a  volume.  The  following  tireadful  catalogue  of  devastation,  inflicted  by  Lord  E vers  and 
Sir  Brian  Latoun,  upon  the  Scotticih  ihmtier,  is  extracted 'from  Hayne^3  State  Papers.  This  wasteful  incur- 
sion was  made  l^  order  of  Henry  VRl./to  avenge  his  disappointment  at  a  breach  of  the  match  between  his 
'4on  Edward,  and  the  iilfant  Queen  of  Seotland : — 

Exphtfis  don  upon  the  Scotisfrom  the  beginning  of  July  to  the  17 th  November,  154f4f. 

Towns,  towers,  bamel^Qci,  paa^she  cfaurdies,  bastdl  houses, 

burned  and  destn^yed           •           .           .           «           .  I92 

Scots  slain                    -               -            -        .    -            .            .  403 

Prisoners  taken            «    '          «           «           •           ^           •  gS6 

Nolt  (cattle)                  - 10,386 

«      Shepe               *            -                «            •            •            "            -  ld#49ie 

Nags  and  geldings       -               ..           ^           .           •           .  1,^96 

Gayt                 •<             -«                 ......  200 

BoUs  of  com                 -                -    ,        -            -  ■          -            .  850 
Insight  gear,  &c.  (fbmitar;^M  ihcalculafale  quantity. 


In  1545,  Lord  Evers  and  Lotaan  again  "entOTod  -SeadiHid,  widi  an  army  eonsistigg  cif  890  mercenaries, 
1500  BngHsh  Borderers,  and  7^0  assured  Seettaskmen,  ehiefly  Armstrongs,  Ttimbiills,  and  ^tiier  broken 
dans.  In  this  seoand  ineuraon,  the  English  genemUeven  eieeeded  thmr  former  cruelty.  'Evers  bmned 
the  tower  of  Breomkmse,  with  ils  bdy  and  her  wkcde  fiuaiily.  As  the  English  retu^ied  towards  Jedborgbji 
they  were  fi^^owdd  by  Anges,  at  the  head  of  1000  horse,  wlio  was  shortily  after  joined  by  Hie  fimoas  ^ijos 
man  Le^y,  wifiiabody  of  FffeoBien.  The  English  befa^fUiwiiling  to  eross  the  Teviot,  while  tiie  6eota 
hung  upon  their  rear,  'hMteld  upon  Aneram  'Moor ;  snd  tiie  Seotdsh  general  was  ddiberatmg  whether-to  ad« 
Vance  or  retne,  wlhen  Bir'Walter  Scotti  of  Buedeugh,  eame  up  at  foil  speed,  with  a  small  but  chosen  body  ef 
lus  retainers.  By  the  advice  of  this  experienced  warrior,  Angas  withdrew  fiom  the  height  wliidi  he  oeeut 
pied,  and  drew  up  his  fbrces  behind  it,  upon  a  piece  of  low  fiat  ground,  called  Panier-heugh.  The  spare 
horses,  being  sent  to  an  eminence  on  theur  rear,  appeared  to  the  English  to  be  the  main  body  of  the  Soots,  in 
the  act  of  flight.  Under  this  persuasion,  Evers  and  lAtoun  hurried  precipitately  forwurd,  and,  having 
ascended  the  hill,  which  their  foes  had  abandonedji  were  no  less  dismayed  than  astonished,  to  find  the  pha- 
lanx of  Scottish  spearmen  drawn  up,  in  firm  array,  upon  the  flat  ground  below.  Tfae  Scots  in  their  turn  h^ 
came  the  assailants.  The  English,  breathless  and  &tigued,  having  the  setting  sun  and  wind  fuU  in  their 
&ces,  were  unable  to  withstand  the  resolute  and  desperate  charge  of  the  Scottish  lances.  No  sooner  had 
they  begun  to  waver,  than  their  own  allies,  the  assured  Borderers,  who  had  been  waiting  the  event,  threw 

VOL,  1,  R 


66  ANCESTRY  OF  THE  NORTHUMBRIANS. 

petty  and  vexatious  depredations.  These  irregularities  were  checked  by  an  edict,  pro* 
nibitingthe  Borderers,  ''except  gentlemen  of  rank  and  respect,"  from  wearing  weapons. 
Bucdeugh  also  led  the  most  intractable  Borderers  to  the  Belgic  wars.  Those  who  con- 
tinued their  free-booting  practices  on  the  Scottish  Border,  experienced  the  severe  and 
unrelenting  vengeance  m  Earl  Dunbar.  He  executed  many  without  the  formality  of  a 
trial ;  and  it  is  even  said  that  in  mockery  of  justice,  asdiz^s  were  held  upon  them  after 
they  had  suffered.  Still  the  evil  was  not  eradicated,  and  the  Moss-troopers,  during 
the  civil  wars  of  Charles  I.  resumed  their  licentious  habits.  In  the  reign  of  Charles 
II.,  many  statutes  were  directed  against  "  a  great  number  of  lewd,  disorderly,  and  law- 
less persons,  being  thieves  and  robbers,  who  are  commonly  called  Moss-troopers.**  In 
defiance  of  these  enactments  the  Border  thieves  continued  their  exploits,  eluding  de- 
tectdon  and  observation  with  the  most  consmnmate  address.  So  latelv  as  the  yem- 
1701,  the  police  of  Tindale  and  Reedsdale,  was  maintained  by  officers  called  country, 
keepers,  who,  for  a  certain  sum,  insured  their  own  districts  against  theft  and  robbery, 
and  in  case  of  their  taking  place,  made  good  the  loss.  Many  of  the  Borderers  in  the 
year  1715,  were  in  arms  under  Forster  and  Derwentwater. 

During  the  last  century  the  habits,  manners,  and  customs,  of  the  Northumbrian 
Borderers,  became  assimilated  with  that  of  their  more  civilized  countrymen.  The 
valiant  achievements,  the  desperate  contests,  and  the  adroit  exploits,  which,  during 
many  centuries,  were  exhibited  in  this  county,  are  now  subjects  of  curious  history. 
The  most  formidable  and  lawless  Border  dans  are  now  amalgamated  with  the  dif- 
ferent classes  of  the  community,  but  their  names  may  still  be  distinguished  amongst 
the  honotirable  competitors  in  the  fidd  of  literature,  the  arts,  and  patriotism. 


aside  their  red  crosaea^  and,  j<niiiiig  their  countryinen,  made  a  moat  merciless  slaughter  among  the>  English 
fugitives,  the  pursuers  calling  upon  eadi  other  to  *'  remember  Broomhduse  f '  In  the  battle  fell  Lord  Evers 
and  his  son,  together  with  Sir  Brian  Latoon,  and  SOO  Englishmen,  many  of  whom  were  persons  of  nmk. 
A  thousand  prisoners  were  taken.    Such  was  the  noted  battle  of  Ancram  Moor. 

The  Scotch  at  this  calamitous  period  made  dreadful  retaliation  for  the  injuries  they  had  sustained.  Beauge, 
a  French  officer  serving  in  Scotland,  witnessed  such  excesses  of  lust  and  cruelty,  **  as  would  have  made  to 
tremble  the  most  savage  Moor  in  Africa."  The  Scots  put  the  prisoners  to  death  after  their  eyes  had  been 
torn  out,  the  victors  contending  who  should  display  the  greatest  dexterity  in  severing  their  legs  and  arms 
before  inflicting  a  mortal  wound.  The  Earl  of  Hertford,  soon  after,  in  a  wasteful  inroad,  inv<dved  the  abbeys 
of  Diybugh,  Kdso,  Melroe,  and  Jedburgh,  in  the  destruction  of  the  country.  Many  similar  inroads  followed ; 
and  in  the  year  1570,  the  Earl  of  Sussex  destroyed  50  castles  and  peeb  or  towers,  and  above  SOO  towns  and 
.villages.  "  1  need  not  multiply  extracts  ftom  the  horrid  catalogue,'*  says  the  moral  Gilpin,  ''  in  which  the 
pillage,  ruin,  and  skughter  of  thousands  of  individuals  (oontributing  nothing  to  the  sum  of  the  wars)  are 
related  with  9a  much  indiflference  as  the  bringing  in  a  harveaf^-Pict  Tour,  i  4A. 


^ 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION 


OF  THE 


COUNTY  OP  NORTHUMBERLANn 


0utm,  S^ituMimtf  «tt)i  iSxtent 


HIS  County  received  its  name  from  the  Saxons^  by .  whom  it  was 
called  ^artkan^HumherJandf  signifying  the  land  or  country  north 
of  the  Humber.  From  incessant  wars  and  fluctuations  of  power, 
its  boundaries  were  very  unsettled.  Anciently  it  was  of  great  ex- 
tent, and,  as  has  been  before  observed,  was  sometimes  divided  into 
two  kingdoms,  Semicia  and  Ueira.  That  part  of  the  former  king- 
dom, extending  from  the  Tweed  to  Edinburrii,  (Edwin-Burgh), 
was  long  the  scene  of  inroad  to  the  Soots  and  JPicts.  In  the  year 
1020,  this  district,  which  nad  acquired  the  general  name  of  LiOthian*,  and  which  in- 
cluded Berwickshire,  Tiviotdale,  and  the  eastern  district  of  Roxburghshire,  was  ceded 
to  the  Scottish  king  by  Eadulf,  Earl  of  Northumberland.  This  extensive  territory 
being  peopled  by  Saxons,  and  considered  as  part  of  England,  Malcolm  IV.  did  ho- 
mage for  it  to  the  crown  of  England.  From  uiis  period,  mougfa  the  Debateable  Land 
and  Berwick  upon  Tweed  contuiued  objects  of  dispute,  the  borders  might  be  consi- 
dered as  finally  settled  according  to  the  present  limits. 

This  district,  which  still  retains  the  name  of  Northumberland,  including  those  de- 
tached parts  of  the  county  of  Durham  called  Norhamshire,  Islandshire,  and  Bedling- 
tonshire,  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  German  ocean ;  on  the  south  by  the  rivers 

*  The  Lothians  were  also  called  Saxoma.    The  former  name  seema  to  have  been  given  in  allusion  to  its 
peculiar  jurisdiction  on  a  litigious  fixmtier««*CaJ6.  CArofi.  in  No.  uL  ItmV  Essay.    Bede^  Liv:c.97» 


68  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

« 

Dannrent  and  Tyne,  which  separate  it  from  Durham ;  on  the  north  and  west  by  the 
river  Tweed,  the  Cheviot  Hms,  and  other  mountains,  by  which  it  is  divided  from 
Berwickshire  and  Roxburghshire ;  and  on  the  south-west  by  part  of  Ciunberland. 

Northumberland  is  situated  between  the  latitudes  of  54  deg.  51  min.  and  55  deg. 
51  min.  north ;  and  longitudes  of  1  deg.  00  min.  and  2  deg.  23  min,  west  frt>m  Lon- 
don. Its  greatest  length  from  Newcastle  to  Berwick  is  63  miles ;  and  breadth  from 
Tynemoul£  to  Glenwhelt  is  47  miles.  It  is  225  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  com- 
puted to  contain  1980  square  ttiHes,  or  1,S87»200  acres.  But,  according  to  the  returns 
made  to  the  House  of  Lords  in  1803,  it  is  reckoned  to  contain  1809  square  miles,  or 
1,157>760  acres.    Its  general  form  is  that  of  a  triangle,  the  sides  of  which  are  unequal^ 

DIVISIONS. 

The  kingdom  of  ^^orfttumlieriand  in  liie  yenr  '9^4^  Was  fiaalty  tedxi6ed  to  a  pro- 
vince or  earldom,  by  Edred,  who  made  Osulf  the  first  earl  or  governor.  This  office 
terminated  soon  after  the  Norman  conquest ;  from  which  period  Northumberland 
had  its  vicecomes^  or  h^h-sheriff.  This  officer,  being  entrusted  with  the  defence  of 
the  Borders,  had  great  power  and^  extraordinaiy  privileges.  He  was  the  high  trea- 
surer  for  the  county ;  he  received  the  issues  and  profits  of  his  sheriffiick  to  his  own 
use,  with  other  fines,  debts,  and  amercements,  wittiin  the  county,  and  all  emoluments 
accruing  from  alienations,  intrusions,  wards,  marriages,  reliefs,  &c.  He  also  levied, 
by  writs,  the  wages  of  parliament-men.*  In  1549,  8d  King  Edward  VI,  it  was 
enacted,  that  he  should  be  accountaWe  for  his  o^e,  as  others  m  the  exchequer. 

At  the  conquest,  the  coun^  was  subdivided  into  baronies,  which  were  held  by  the 
Normans  on  certain  terms  of  militarv  service.  When  Northumberland  was  imder 
tbe  ffov^nment  of  the  bishop  <^  Durham,  he,  as  immediate  tenant  of  the  king  of  the 
whole  Coimty,  answeved  escuage  for  the  whole  in  one  sum.  The  tMe  Baronf,  by 
leq^h  of  time,  became  restrained  to  those  who,  properly  speaking,  w^rehttrcfnes  r^gis 
ft$Mregniy  and  had  manors  and  courts  therein ;  for  though,  by  the  principles  of  the 
feudal  constitution,  every  immediate  military  tenant  of  the  crown  was  obliged  to  assist 
the  king  with  his  advice ;  yet  such  as  had  only  two  knights'  fees  eouid  not  attend 

..  ••  Th«  first  writs  «Kta^  bear  ^te  the  28th,  Sgth,  and  d2d,  of  King  Edward  I. ;  and  the  first  sUtute  12th 
KiAg  Ridbwd  II. 

t  Baton  is  B  term  whose  origin  and  primary  import  we  much  contested.  According  to  Camden^  barons 
pere  first  mentioned  in  a  fragment  of  the  laws  of  Canute,  king  of  England  and  Denmark.  Some  will  have 
tfae  word  baron  originaUy  den6tes  a  man 2  semei  a  Ubertinus,  or  freeman  ;  some  a  great  or  rich  man/  some  a 
vassal^  or  Uege  man ;  others,  as  Camden  and  Isidore,  a  mercenary  soldier.  Anciently,  a  wife  ased  to  call  her 
bii^band  baron,  meaaing  a  noble  person.  Menage  derives  it  Arom  the  Latin  baro^  which  we  find  osed  in  llie 
pure^^e  of  that  language  fbrt^tr,  a  #<otf^,  or  tia/ian/ man/  whence,  according  to  lilts  autftw,  those  placed 
next  to  the  king  in  battle  were  (Med  hUrones,  as  beii^  the  bravest  men  in  the  army ;  Mid  as  prineet  fi^ 
quently  regarded  the  braveiry  aAd  fidaUty  of  those  about  them  with  tbea,  the  word  came  to  be  used  te  any 
noble  person  who  holds  a  fee  immediately  from  the  king.  But  the  term  was  not  confined  to  the  att^idanta 
of  kingfl^  as  originslly  baron  rignified  the  jimmediAte  tenant  of  that  superior  w'hose  baron  he  is  said  to  be« 


NOBTHUMBERL  AND.  69 

parliament  without  their  ruin.  Hence  arose  the  omission  of  issuing  writs  to  such,  by 
which  they  lost  that  right  they  were  entitled  to  by  the  natiu^  of  their  tenure,  and 
were  denominated  tenants  by  knight's  service  in  the  capite  of  the  king.  Those  ba- 
rons,  whose  yearly  revenue  amounted  to  thirteen  knight's  fees  and  one-third,  or  400 
marks,  (£260  ISs.  4d.)  were  entitled  to  attend  in  parluoneht,  being  tenants  by  barony, 
as  the  dignity  and  privileges  were  annexed  to  the  lands  they  hem.  Such  continued 
to  be  the  nature  of  the  English  baronies  for  about  two  hundred  years  after  the  con- 
quest. 

In  the  parliament  summoned  to  meet  1st  November,  7th  Richard  II.  188S,  anim. 
plication  was  made  by  the  nobility  and  gentry  for  a  part  of  the  public  levies  to  be 
assigned  them  for  guarding  the  Borders  against  the  incursions  of  the  Scots,  who  were 
answered^  that  they  had  a  sufficient  recompence  by  the  tenure  of  their  land,  given 
them  for  that  particular  service.  It  was  enacted  in  the  parliament,  called  in  October, 
9th  Richard  II.  1985,  that  all  possessors  of  lands  on  the  Marches  beyond  the  river 
Tyne,  whether  lords  or  others,  should  reside  upon  them,  except  such  as  the  king 
should  think  fit  to  dispense  with. 

Northumberland  has  given  the  title  of  duke  and  earl  to  many  noble  personages. 
It  gave  the  title  of  duke  to  John  Dudley ;  and  the  title  of  earl  and  duke  to  Charley 
Fitzroy ;  and  of  earl  for  a  small  space  to  John  Nevill  Lord  Montacute.  It  has 
given  the  title  of  earl  to  no  less  than  fifteen  of  the  noble  family  of  Percy. 

The  baronies  of  Northumberland  were  divided  into  six  wards,  viz. :— ^. 

TYNE-DALE  WARD.       BAMBROUGH  WARD. 
COQUET-DALE  WARD.     MORPETH  WARD. 
GLEN-DALE  WARD.       CASTLE  WARD. 

The  following  is  a  correct  eniuneration  of  the  modem  divisions  of  the  different 
wards*,  and  the  number  of  constableries  in  each  division.  Norhamshire,  Islandshire, 
and  Bedlingtonshire,  are  not  included,  as  they  are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  county 
palatine  of  Durham  in  civil  afiairs : — 

Tynedale  Ward. — ^North  East  Division,  62 — ^North-west  Ditto  89 — ^East  Ditto 
58— West  Ditto  28— South  Ditto  29— Total  211. 

CoQUETDALE  Ward. — East  Division  88 — ^West  Ditto  48 — ^North  Ditto  44--, 
South  Ditto  12.— Total  182. 

Glendale  Ward.— East  Division  24— West  Ditto  80.— Total  54. 

Bambrouoh  Ward. — ^North  Division  30 — ^South  Ditto  26. — ^Total  56, 

Morpeth  Ward, — ^East  Division  88 — ^West  Ditto  51- — ^Total  89. 

Castle  Ward,— East  Division  42— West  ditto  62.— Total  104. 

Total  of  Constahleries  in  the  County  of  Northiunberland,  646, 

*  A  Ward  is  similar  to  a  Hundred,  It  is  a  military  term  from  the  corrupt  Latin  Warda^metadng  to  ke^^ 
to  defend.  These  wards  being  upon  a  contested  frontier,  were  covered  with  sttGng-  fortifications.  All  the. 
barons,  chieftains^  and  people  of  quality,  dwelt  in  strong  castles,  or  moated  towers.  From  a  list  of  these  finr* 
tresses  made  about  the  year  1460,  and  preserved  in  a  manuscript  in  the  possession  of  that  able  antiquary,  Mr 
Surtees,  of  Mainaforth;,  it  appears  that  Northumberland  contained  at  that  time  thirty-seven  castles,  and  eighty^ 
aeven  towers  I 


70  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Ndrtbumbcirhiid,  te  to  ecdesiastioal  jurisdictiMi,  is  in  the  diocese  of  DuriMflHy  ex- 
cept the  difltrict  called  Hexhamshiie^  which  is  still  a  peculiar  belongii^  to  the  ardw 
bishop  of  York.  The  bishops  of  Durham  are  princes  palatiiie^  having  temporal  aa 
well  as  spiritual  jurisdiction^  beins  stiled  in  ancient  pleading,  P&latH  ComUes^  Eaila 
of  the  Palace,  as  to  their  temporal ;  and  are  said  to  hold  episoopal  state,  as  to  sipau 
tuab.  The  liberties  of  the  county  palatine  of  Durham  were  ascertained  by  pariia- 
ment,  11  Henry  VI.  In  parliament-time,  the  bishops  of  Durham  and  Carlisle  were 
excused  their  attendance,  on  sending  procuratores  sufficientes,  (sufficient  proxies),  as  by 
tl»r  plsKse  they  were  to  have  a  vigilant  eye  to  the  defence  of  the  Borders ;  ami  in  the 
writ  for  the  parliament  to  meet  at  Westminster  under  Edward  II.  they  were  ex- 
pressly inhibited  to  be  present  otherwise  than  by  proxies ;  worthy,  says  the  record^ 
of  being  representatives  in  that  great  council  q&  tne  nation. 

The  present  number  of  parochial  churches  and  chapels  in  the  county,  the  extra,  pa^ 
rochial,  and  peculiars,  their  patronage,  &c. ;  also  a  list  of  the  Roman  catholic  chapels, 
and  the  dissenting  meeting-houses,  classed  undier  the  different  sects,  will  be  given  in 
a  future  department  of  the  work. 

CLIMATE. 

In  regard  to  temperature,  the  dimate  is  subject  to  great  variation :  upon  the  moun- 
tains snow  will  often  continue  for  several  months,  when  there  is  none  in  the  lower 
districts,  where  it  is  soon  dissolved  by  the  warmth  of  the  sea  vapours.  The  weather 
is  very  inconstant,  but  mostly  runs  into  extranes.  The  spring  sharp  and  severe ; 
the  summer  for  a  day  or  two  excessive  hot,  succeeded  on  a  sudoai  by  chilling  colds, 
accompanied  with  showers  of  hail ;  the  autumn  as  variable  as  the  summer  months — 
a  few  serene  and  warm  days,  followed  by  others  tempestuous  and  rainy,  threatening 
to  blast  the  just  expectations  of  the  industrious  farmer* ;  the  winter  is  frosty  for  a 
short  time,  and  then  unexpectedly  followed  by  a  thaw,  and  often  by  heavy  rains. 

The  cold  piercing  easterly  winds  are  most  prevalent  in  the  spring  monthsf .  Our 
longest  droughts  are  always  accompanied  by  wern ;  but  rain  is  of  little  use  while  they 
prevail,  from  the  extreme  cold  which  always  attaids  them.  From  the  slow  progress 
vegetation  makes  whenever  they  continue  for  a  few  weeks,  they  have  acquired,  in 
some  places,  the  name  of  sea-pines.  The  mild  western  and  southern  breezes  rarely 
take  place  before  June ;  they  are  certain  harbingers  of  rain  and  vigorous  vegetation, 
and  are  the  most  prevailing  winds  through  the  summer  and  autumn.     Our  greatest 

*  The  cattle  appear  extremely  sensible  of  these  sadden  colds,  cows  especially,  whose  milk  becomes  coaga« 
lated^  thick^  and  viscid ;  a  watery,  stringy  humour,  falling  from  their  nostrils ;  their  cheeks  swelled,  the  pain 
forcing  tears  from  thdr  eyes  in  heavy  drops. 

t  A  quaint  writer  expresses  himself  thus  on  this  subject:— '^  The  air  of  this  county  is  sharp  and  piercing 
in  winter,  and  sometimes  troubled  with  deep  snows  and  pinching  frosts^  suitable  to  its  climate.  But  yet  'tis 
nothing  near  so  sharp  as  the  people.  And  by  my  late  experience,  here  wet  weather  is  not  so  sensible  and 
searching,  as  it  is  in  Middlesex.  'Tis  possible  the  warm  breaths  that  continually  come  out  of  its  numberless 
colepits  helps,  with  the  vapoius  of  the  sea,  to  take  off  the  rawness  of  a  cold  dampish  air."-— 7(&e  New  State  of 
England,  printed  in  1691* 


NORTHUMKSRLAKD.  n 

falls  of  snow,  or  rain,  are  from  the  south  and  south-east ;  and  Whenever  we  have  a 
▼ery  high  west  whid,  it  is  a  certain  sign  that  a  great  quantity  of  rain  is  falling  to  the 
westward,  in  Cumberland  and  Roxburghshire. 

Notwithstanding  the  uneqoal  temperature  of  the  air,  it  is  remarkably  saluhriouSt 
and  more  favburaUe  to  animal  life  than  that  of  most  other  maritime  counties,  as  ap« 
pears  from  the  strength,  robust  health,  and  longevity  of  the  inhabitants,  tibe  average 
scale  of  mortality  bemg  one  in  fifty-tiiro  and  a  half  of  the  whole  population. 

This  advantage  is  attributed  to  the  soil  on  the  coast,  which  being  sandy  and  rocky, 
does  not  emit  such  noxious  vapours  as  those  that  constantly  rise  from  mud  and  ouze ; 
the  winds  which  issue  from  our  mountains  also  drive  before  them  and  disperae  the 
nitrous  viapours  and  exhalation,  and  make  a  pure  and  salutary  horizon. 

Thunder  storms  are  not  very  frequent  The  most  imcommcMi  and  terrible  ones 
^are  usually  such  as  are  general  through  the  kingdcnn.  Blights  of  a  pernicious  natujfe 
seldom  invest  this  coon^. 

SOIL  AND  ASPECT. 

Northumberland  contains  a  great  variety  of  soiL  A  cold  and  hungry  clay  prevails 
about  Newcastle,  but  it  is  greauy  ameliorated  by  vast  quantities  of  excellent  manure. 
The  sea  coast,  as  far  uo  as  the  great  post  road,  is  chiefly  a  strong,  fertile,  clayey  loam, 
well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  wheat,  pulse,  clover,  and  grazing.  A  sandy,  gravelly, 
and  dry  loam,  occupy  the  banks  of  the  Tyne ;  on  the  Comiet ;  about  Rothbury ;  on 
the  Aln,  from  its  mouth  to  Alnwick ;  and  down  Tweedside.  But  the  greatest  quan- 
tity of  this  kind  of  soil  is  found  in  the  Vales  of  Beamish,  Till,  and  Beaumont  The 
hills  surroimding  the  Cheviot  mountains  are  mostly  a  dry,  sharp  pointed,  gravelly 
loam.  In  the  middle  and  south-east  parts  of  the  county,  moist  loams,  on  a  wet,  cold, 
dayey  bottom,  generally  prevail :  tiiey  are  j^incipally  employed  in  growing  grain, 
rearing  yoimg  cattle,  and  feeding  ewes  and  lambs.  A  black  peat  earth  occupies  most 
of  the  mountainous  districts,  and  is  found  in  many  places  in  the  lower  parts  of  the 
county*. 

The  aspect  of  this  county,  in  respect  to  surface,  is  marked  with  great  variety:  along 
the  sea  coast  it  is  nearly  level ;  towards  the  middle  the  siu^aoe  is  more  diversified,  aiui 
thrown  into  gently  swelling  ridges,  or  low  round  topped  hills.  These  parts  are  well 
enclosed ;  in  some  places  eniicb^  with  woods  and  recent  plantations,  but  the  general 
appearance  is  destitute  of  those  ornaments.  The  western  part  (except  a  few  inter- 
vening  vales)  is  an  extensive  scene  of  basaltic  eminences^  sterile  moorlancb,  and  ex-> 
posed  sheep  pastures,  where  the  hand  of  Cultivation  is  rarely  to  be  traced.. 

Of  the  mountainous  districts,  those  around  Cheviot  are  the  most  valuable,  being  in 
general  fine  green  hills,  thrown  into  a  numberless  variety  of  forms,  enclosing  and 
sneltering  many  deep,  narrow,  sequestered  rfens.  Th^  extend  from  the  head  of  Coi* 
quet  down  to  Allenton ;  from  thence  nortnward  to  Frendwick,  Branton,  Ilderton, 
W  ooler,  Kirknewton,  and  Mindrim,  and  occupy  at  least  an  area  of  90,000  acres. 

The  other  mountainous  districts  lie  chiefly  on  the  western  part  of  the  county,  but 
the  largest  portion  extends  from  the  Roman  Wall  to  the  river  Coquet  (with  a  few 

*  Bailey  and  CuUey's  Agricultural  View  of  Northumberland. 


7«  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

intervening  fertile  vales),  and  to  the  moors  north  of  Rothbury.  They  are  not  marked 
by  any  striking  irregularities  of  surface,  being  in  general  extensive,  open,  solitary 
wastes,  growing  little  else  but  heath,  and  afibiding  a  hard  subsistence  to  the  flocks 
that  depasture  them.  The  alpine  elevations  which  adjoin  the  county  of  Durham, 
are  lof^  and  rugged,  and  their  sterile  summits  are,  durmg  a  great  part  of  the  year, 
covered  with  snow. 

WATERS. 

There  is  not  perhaps  any  one  counb^  in  this  island  that  can  boast  of  finer  rivers  and 
brooks  than  Northumberland.  The  Tyne,  the  Tweed,  the  Blyth,  the  Wansbeck,  the 
Coquet,  and  the  Abi,  enter  like  sovereigns  into  the  ocean  witn  their  tributaries,  and 
aU  receive  ships  into  their  bosom  with  great  pomp. 

The  Tt/Tiel^  is  the  most  eminent  for  beauty  and  utility.  The  vale  through  which  it 
flows  is  remarkably  fertile,  and  is  almost  unparalleled  for  the  richness  of  its  scenery  : 


in  many  parts  it  offers  the  most  romantically  picturesque  views.  It  has  been  sung 
by  our  northern  bard,  in  his  Pleasures  of  the  imagination,  where  he  breaks  forth  in 
the  following  beautiful  apostrophe  :--^ 


"  O  ye  dales 
^^  Of  Tjrne,  and  ye  most  ancient  woodlands  \  where 
<*  Oft  as  the  giant  flood  obliquely  strides, 
<^  And  his  banks  open  and  his  lawns  extend, 
<<  Stops  short  the  pleased  traveller  to  view 
**  Presiding  o'er  the  scene  some  rustic  towV, 
*<  Founded  by  Norman  or  by  Saxon  hands,^ 

The  river  originates  in  two  different  and  distant  parts  of  the  country ;  and  the  two 
branches  before  their  union  are  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  North  IVne,  and 
South  Tyne.  The  north  Tyne  has  its  source  at  a  place  called  Wheel-Fell,  among 
those  bleak  mountains  which  separate  England  from  Scotland.  Passing  rapidly 
through  an  extensive  barren  district,  in  a  s^entine  direction,  it  receives  the  crystal 
streams  of  the  Reed  below  Bellingham.  Bending  its  course  southward  towards 
Wark,  continuing  to  receive  a  number  of  tributary  brooks,  which  rush  down  from 
the  western  hills,  it  passes  between  Chipchase  Castle  and  Nimwick  Park,  and  enters 

*  The  etymology  of  the  word  Tyne  has  been  much  contested.  Somner  derives  it  (torn  the  Saxon ;  but 
Baxter^  Whitakery  and  Chalmers,  give  it  a  British  origin.  Indeed  it  is  clearly  proved,  that  the  ancient  Bri«' 
tish  appellation  of  our  rivers  are  generally  preserved.  Baxter  conjectures  that  Tyne  is  derived  from  a  Bri- 
tish word,  signifying  "  the  extended  river."  Bullet  traces  it  to  a  Celtic  word  meaning  '\  double/'  i.  e« 
H  river  formed  of  two  rivers ;  but  the  industrious  Chalmers  says,  it  is  the  ancient  British  and  Gaelic  Tain, 
which  simply  denotes  **  a  river,"  or  ''the  i^unning  water."  This  river  is  supposed  to  have  been  called  the  Vedrc^ 
m  Ptolomy's  ancient  map  of  Britain.  This,  however,  is  uncertain.  Its  present  appellation  is  implied  in  the 
first  account  of  a  religious  bouse  at  Tinmouth,  erected  about  the  year  6l7*  Milton  has  sung  the  "coaly 
Tyne ;"  and  Draiton's  PolyQlbicm  contains  a  poetieal  personification  and  description  of  this  beautifhl  ani^ 
useful  river.*-i?efi^,  /.  v.  c.  2.  Brands  Hitt,  of  Nerve,  voL  H  p.  4.  Chal.  Cakd,  vol*  1,  p.  49,  BoxUr^ 
Omni  tm4  Sham^  inVerh* 


JfO«irHUM»BJlIiAJ^I>.    ,  ,  7S 


XRto  a  ^fertile  and  highly  cuUiVi^tQd  y^,  jbj^^iiUy  ^dpithe^  with  various  sorts  of 
wood,  and  which  dondiicts  ite.  waters  into,  its  sistef,  str^ac^s  ne^x  Hexham. 
'  Thi;  South  Ty»e  vises  in  the  lAountaws  at  ike  he^  of  Qarn£ill-gate»  at  the  extreihe 
borders  of  Cumtwrland,  atod  ateout  thyty  miles  disti^t  frpn^.  ^  source  of  the  North 
TyncL  ;  At  Alston  it»  waters  are  swfiUed  by  the  Nent,  which  rises  among  the  lead- 
mines  «t  III^ithead»  dnd  qei  ite  entiy  into  North^mherland,  Gildersdale  Burn  also  adds 
tlMveto.  Wanderingiftoithward,  it  reeeives  a  numl)?r  of  springs,  which  trickle  through 
.  the  adjoining  moors ;  and  (^posite  Feal^rst^pn  C^tle  it  takes  a  north-eastern  course^ 
towsrds  HaltwbistleL  From  thence  it  nws  m  ^n  easte^  direetiion,  making  a  bend  to 
vbit  Uniftiaaik'  fiall;  and  at  Bidldy  £LaO  it^  w^i^»  are  swelled  by  the  AUen  river. 
After  possioff  Hawdon  Bridge  it  Iturns  north;W9ird»  {tfid  iyii>dinff  ^und  Eatlox,  joins 
the  waters  of  the  J^ortiA  Tyne  not  fv  fn^n  ^^pitt^  IThis  branch  U  well  supplied  with 
traut»  and  affords  pleasant- angling.  Its  Wi^tf^s  have  ^  bdackish  hi^e^  from  their  mossy 
moantainous  oriffin ;  and  its  stee^ia^  in  malky.jparts,  is  much' broken  by  large  stones 
that  occupy  its  channel. 

.'  From  Hexham  the  unitcdt  :str0»te^9  whleh  fxcenow  qalled*  by  way  of  pre-eminence^ 
the  Tyne,. ^i!oceeds  wiikh  great  qi^^sty  t^iiwjtards  Cqrl^ridge/  and  on  its- way  is  aug- 
Anented  by  the  I>eviLMwater.  •  Thi$  wble  rivier  then,  passes  by  tie  village  of  ByweU,' 
and  raniiing  throi^  a  remiukably  pleasant  vale,  reacheis.  Kewbura,  ^bout  five  or  six 
miles  above  Newcastle ;  then  flowifllg  tlvroi|g;h  ^veral  beau.tiful  windings,  and  receive 
ing  the  clear  atiieams  of  tdae  Dwwe»t>  i^  ^lu^  is  ij;Lteree|ited  )by  a  large  island,  con- 
sistip:^  of  maoiyaGxes^  catted  Uie^I^^  Its  divided  streams  rejoin  at  the 

eonfluehce  of  tike  Teama^  .aiuoU  ia  all  th^  (ol^amity  of  majestic  silence,  roHs  its  mighty 
waters  along  the  feet  of  the  northern  metrc^lis,  •  After  running  southward  about  a 
a  mile,  ite  oouarseis  obetrueted  hf^  ibuny  VfX^Vigf^9ifX^  projection^  of  its  banks,  but  it 
soon  4)peiis  into  a^  iremarkaUff ,  &^  im^  bsoa4  cWmoU  called  the  Loiig-Keach,  through 
whidii  ite  deto  ip^ateps  iwi  m  w  eve^  'fpd  regular  c^Hirse.  At,  the,  end  of  this  fine 
pool  it  spreadb  over  the  extensive  fUto  pf  ,^ww  Sl^^  ^d  ^hen  contracting,  the 
^hamiel  fdrms'  iaHdane^odyk^t  Ismm  for  ,the  whple  length  of  Shields,  capable  brhold^ 
ing  aibairetnHro  thousand  Sfiiili^f  l^gesh^  Its  waters  then  pa^s  through  a  narrow 
entrance,  and  jjaia  theGeiman  Ocean. 

The  souixse  of  tha  -Mioirth  Tyne  is-  ahqut  seventy  .miles  to  the  north-west,  and  the 
South  favaaeh  ^ixty  !to  the  wse^it  w^  sQ^th^^vrest  urqni  North  Shields';  hut  if  we  mea- 
sine  by  the  windings  of  the  river,  the  distance  will  ^be  considerably  more. 

ISie^rajiidity  of'wetjwl^yaprii^^:^^^  the  difiereni  width  anc(  depth  of  the 

chamieL  The  tides  f]se)te  ^  lit^  above  mwhum,  about  ^igHteon  miles  distant  from 
Tynmatmiik,  Aofma^mg  tQ  Xk.  JKotherf^n*,  they  cpmmpitify  flow  about  four  hours 
and  a  half,  and  ebb  aboi^t  fi^eu  hours  .and  a  half,  at  Newcastle  bridge :  and  the  per^ 
pendteuiar  rise  of  the  givey  here  in  |t  spring  tide  will  sometirbes  be  ^even  or  twelve 
foel,  odd  ii.  Tyi\emQ«|jbi  Wwr.Bhcwi^  eighte^  feet ;  but  both  these  circumstances  vary 

tfaedr 


grntl^^*  faafi  the  diffe^nt  win4s*  IW^ :  ^he  4ifierent  quantities  of  fresh  Water ,  in  the 
riveir.    -Boianorth^weatedy  i(|Q^  tjb^  ^om^imes  rise  three  feet  higher  than  is 

montiaoedatove;  and  kn  a  sombh^nv^terly  on^,  ^metimes  scarcely  half  so  hi^h;  iEUid 

*  Philosophical  Eoquiry  into  the  Nature  and  Property  of  Water,  p.  114, 
V0L,L— (4)      :  —  .  T 


74  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

in  some  of  our  great  land  floods,  the  tide  has  not  sufficiait  force  to  stem  and  turn  ibe 
current,  which  will  set  downwards  during  the  whole  swell  of  the  tide. 

We  shall  reserve  those  important  particulars  whidi  relate  to  the  fiahay,  navigation^ 
and  conservatorship,  of  this  nne  river,  for  another  division  of  the  work. 

The  Tweed" ^  **  fan*  flood"  issues  from  a  mountain  in  the  county  of  Tweedak,  in 
Scotland.  After  receiving  ahout  twenty  rivulets,  it  meanders  through  SdOdikshire, 
and  enters  Roxburghshire  at  the  influx  of  the  Etterick^  and  winding  throudb  that 
variegated  country  for  the  course  of  thirty  miles,  it  enters  Berwickshire  at  me  con- 
fluence of  the  Carham  Bum,  having  received  in  its  ''  gently  gliding  flow"  the  Galen* 
the  Allen,  and  the  Teviot.  After  being  augmented  by  the  kmdred  flooda  of  LeedeTf 
it  winds  sdong  the  Borders  of  Berwickshire,  and,  encreased  by  the  Eldan,  continues 
its  easy  course  through  a  comer  of  Roxburghshire,  again  bounds  Barwick»  and  as  it 
^des  to  the  sea  divides  Northumberland  and  Durham  from  Berwickshire.  Such  is 
me  famed  river  which  the  chorographical  Drajrton  describes  ajs  our  ^^  northern  boiv 
ders'  boast." 

This  river,  which  retrospection  miffht  adorn  willi  many  antiquities  and  actions, 
continues  to  be  the  well  known  bouncuury  between  England  and  SootLuid,  notwith^ 
standing  the  poetical  prophecy^  of  Drummond,  in  his  *  ForA^asUng^  that  ^  Tweed 
no  more  our  kingdom  shall  divide.^  Through  its  course  the  Tweed  glides  alone  the 
lowest  level  of  the  vale  which  lies  betwe^fi  tne  Cheviot  range  on  the  south,  aad  L*- 
mermoor  on  the  north,  and  it  thus  naturally  forms  the  common  receptacle  of  the  va« 
nous  rivulets  which  come  down  cm  either  side  from  those  extensive  heights,  the  pro- 
Me  parent  of  so  many  streams.  The  river  Till  is  the  only  one  of  any  bote  in  Nor- 
thumberland which  empties  itself  into  the  Tweed. 

The  tide  flows  ten  miles,  to  Noiham  Castle,  and  vessels  of  forty  or  fifty  tons  navi- 
gate the  Tweed  to  New  Waterford,  which  is  six  miles  above  Berwick,  vast quanti<- 
ties  of  fine  salmon  are  bred  in  its  waters,  which  are  sent  to  supply  the  tables  of  the 
London  epicures.    It  also  abounds  with  bull-trouts,  ccmimon  trouts,  and  whitlings. 

The  B^th  is  formed  by  a  sreat  number  of  springs,  which,  issuing  from  difierent 
rarts,  unite  their  waters  to  beautify  and  enrich  the  pleasant  vale  of  Stannin^ton. 
From  hence  it  continues  its  murmuring  course  along  a  rocky  channel,  endosed 
with  h]^h  banks,  and  romantically  adorned  with  han^ff  wood;  passes  the  pleasant 
villa  ofHartford,  and,  below  Sleekbum,  discharges  itseff  into  the  sea,  which  flows 
upwards  from  Blyth  to  welcome  its  waters. 

The  Wansbeck,  by  a  confluence  of  a  number  of  small  streams,  assumes  the  charac- 
ter of  a  river  at  Meldon  Park.  Below  Mitford  its  waters  are  swelled  by  the  Funt ; 
it  then  passes  Morpeth,  and  running  through  a  succession  of  narrow  but  fertile  vales, 
beautifully  adorned  with  wood,  falls  into  the  sea  at  Cambois. 

The  Coquet  rises  on  the  Borders  of  Scotland,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  source  of 
the  Reed,  and  idTter  receiving  a  great  numbear  (^  subsidiary  streams,  which  descend 
from  the  northern  hills,  it  pushes  its  transparent  streams  rapidly  over  a  pdbbly  bed« 
and  passes  from  Harbottle  down  to  the  foot  of  Simonside  Hills,  in  a  south-eastern 
direction ;  then  meandering  eastward,  visits  Rothbury.  From  hence  the  Coquet  de- 
scends through  a  fine  vale,  and  after  washing  the  walls  of  the  recluse  and  impresisAve 

*  Toedk),  in  the  ancient  British,  signifies  what  is  on  a  side,  or  border;  the  border,  or  limits  of  a  ooontrj. 


NOKTHUMBERLAND.  73 

ruins  of  Brinklmm  Priory,  (msdes  Weldon  Hall  and  Fdton,  and  flows  in  a  beautiful 
serpentine  course  to  Warkworth,  which  it  also  surrounds.  It  then  directs  its  course 
in  a  straight  line  for  about  half  a  mile/ and  loses  itself  in  the  ocean.  This  beautiful 
river,  after  leaving  the  naked  hills  of  the  west,  runs  through  one  of  the  best  adorned 
and  most  highly  improved  districts  in  England,  and  contributes,  by  its  limpid  streams, 
to  form  s(»ne  of  the  finest  scenes  in  nature.  The  channel  is,  in  general,  either  paved 
witli  rock  or  covered  with  smooth  pebbles,  which  cause  a  pleasant  murmur,  tnat  is 
sometimes  agreeably  varied  by  fra^ents  of  rods  or  large  stones,  which  occasion  breaks 
in  the  water.  In  we  year  1764,  it  left  its  old  course,  and  forced  its  way  betweoi 
two  sandy  hills  overgrown  with  bent,  that  had  obstructed  its  passage  for  a^,  and  is 
now  setdedin  a  very  deep  diannel,  with  a  fine  day  bottom,  which  ifaakes  it  naviga* 
ble  for  small  craft.  It  is  said  there  are  upwards  oi  fourteen  feet  of  water  upon  me 
bar  at  fuU  sea,  and  continues  that  depth  very  near  the  town ;  so  that  with  a  little 
asiBistance  <^  sort,  it  might  be  made  to  admit  diips  of  a  considca»ble  burdien ;  and  as 
Coquet  Island  is  situated  a  little  to  the  southward,  a  fine  bay  is  formed  at  ^e  very 
mouth  of  the  river.  The  Coquet  is  famed  for  the  salmon  fishery,  which  is  carried  on 
near  its  mouth,  and  has  long  oMistituted  a  valuable  branch  of  trade. 

The  Aln  issues  from  a  mountain  west  of  Afaiham,  and  taking  an  eastern  direction, 
hastens  to  the  pleasant  vale  of  Whittingham.  Proceeding  in  its  lively  course  round 
Brislaw-hiU,  aim  then  visiting  the  sdemn  and  romantic  spot  where  stands  the  vene- 
rable remains  of  Huln  Abb^,  it  proceeds,  amidst  deep  hanging  woods,  to  add. to  the 
beauties  of  the  ancient  and  mamiificent  castle  of  the  noble  house  of  Percy.  Here  its 
dear  water  rolls  over  several  pteasing  cascades,  which  sreatly  adds  to  the  picturesque 
beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  It  then  passes  quietiy,  in  a  serpentine  direction, 
through  a  pleasant  and  fruitful  coimtry,  to  Alemouth,  where  it  empties  itself  into 
the  sea. 

During  the  time  of  heavy  ndns  the  tributary  streams  that  sup{dy  the  Aln  descend 
from  the  hills  with  accelerated  rapidity.  It  then  assumes  a  turbulent  appearance,  and 
hurries  along  its  channel  with  the  most  ftantic  fuiy,  overflowing  its  banks,  and  re* 
moving  every  obstacle  that  opposes  its  progress.  There  is  a  salmon  fishery  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Aln,  and,  like  au  the  other  rivers  in  the  coimty,  it  abounds  witii  tronl^ 
which  affords  much  amusement  to  the  angler. 

Besides  the  rivers  which  sweU  the  waters  of  the  jMrincipal  ones,  there  are  a  number 
of  noble  streams,  which,  after  fertilizing  and  adorning  the  districts  through  which 
tJie^pass,  discharge  themselves  into  the  sea. 

The  Lakes,  or  iJHighs,  in  Northumberland,  are  not  of  great  extent ;  but,  in  gene^ 
ral,  they  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  surroimding  prospect  The  most  stiudng 
features  of  each  will  be  described  ia  the  topographical  view  of  the  respective  places 
where  they  are  situated. 

Northumberland  abounds  with  mmertd  springs.  Many  occur  within  the  limits  of 
the  Newcastle  coal  field.  Those  impr^nated  with  common  salt  have  been  noticed 
in  the  pits  at  Walker,  Wallsend,  and  Irarcy  Main ;  and  in  most  pf  the  deep  minea 
between  Newcastie  and  Shields.  The  spring  at  Walker  issues  from  a  deserted  shaft» 
at  the  depth  of  55  fathoms,  but  being  dammed  up  rises  88  fathoms  higher.  It  is 
then  pumped  from  ai  reservoir  in  the  pit  for  the  manufacture  of  soda.    According  to 


Ttf  GENERAL  DESCBIFTIOK  OF 

an  analysis  by  Mr.  G.  Woods/IQOO  grams  of  this  water  contains  St  of  dr^  inuiiate 
of  soda,  10  dry  muriate  of  lime,  1  jmuvate  of  miiu^esia,  and:  of  tlie  earbonate-of  lime 
and  of  iron.  Chalybeate  springs,  some  of  which  deposit  brae  qiiantitieB .  of  yeliom 
ochre,  are  common  in  the  nei^faourbood  o£  Newcastle.  '  The  water  wbick  flowed 
Ibfough  the  wooden  pipes  at  Walker  Col&ery,  used  to  let  £b11  a  oopious  pmcipitate 
of  gypsum*  or  alabaster  Specimens  of  this  sediment  are  preserved  in  the  cabinets  of 
the  curious. 

The  lead  mine  district  also  ocmtains  sevenl  mineral  springs.  One  has  been  meiw 
tiened  on  the  brow  of  a  bill  near  Allendale  Town.  At  Dukesfieid  a  spring  of  limpid 
water,  holding  soj^urnted  hydrogen  in  sobitlop^  bc^  been*  kmg  known.  Near  Tur^ 
let  Bum,  whidb  runs  into  the  North  Tyne,.  a-  sulphurated  and  a  chalybeate  sraing 
were  both  deteeted  buUbldng  up  from  under  a  peat  moss,  by  Mr  Joseph  Fryer.  Win* 

Ste  Sba  has  been  long  famed  as  a  stvong  chalybeate  spring.  At  t^  souroe  of  the 
ead  Water  a  sulphureous  spring  issues.  Anotber  rises  near  i^ose^s  Bower,  by  &e 
riarulet  of  Wm^k,  strongly  inqxregnated  with  mineral  ingredimts.  At  East  LJathank 
is  a  spriiw,  and  in  Hnm  Park^  near  Abiwiok,  a  skhilar  one,  said  to  possess  raluriale 
medicinaTproperties.  The  Bpinner^s  Well,  near  Bedfington*  is  remarkaUe  for  its  hu 
pidescent  cpianty.  Mr  WaHtt  mentioiis  a  water  near  Simonbnm,  possessed  of  this 
property,  attended  with  this  singuko'  droumstance,  that  its  terrene  wits  make  a  ehange 
in  some  plants,  and  not  in  othorB,  though  growiaig  in  a  grmpe  to^tbi&r,  mosses  and 
liverworts  becoming  stdney^  and  priniroses  and  geranimns  holding  up  tbctr  heads, 
and  retainii^  their  native  form  and  hue.  The  reason  assigned  for  this  phenometion 
by  a  learned  naturalist  is  this ;  tiiei  former  being  destitute  of  congenial  salt,  readily 
admit  into  their  pores  adventitious  ones ;  the  other  being  idveady  ftupnisbed  with  it, 
will  admit  of  no  Heterogeneous  accession^. 

In  Honeydeugh,  near  Chesterwood,  below  a  small  cataract,  there  are  two  toeks  ia 
a  manner  formed  of  incaiurtaitions,  of  various  ookiurs,  with  'soaall  hdiows  and.  arches 
of  fretwork  ^nd  petrified  moss. 

.  The  springs  that  trickle  through  the  dilEerenA  districts  of  13ms  edun£y  are  innusiie- 
ssble ;  but  the  Lady- well,  in  the  diapefary  of  Holystone ;  tbe  RiYeruweK,  near  Botb*^ 
bmry ;  and  the  SbrillhQpeTwdl,  in  the  chapelry  of  LongframlingtoiK^  deserve  pavticu* 
lar  notice.  The  first  and  laidt  of  these  smqs^.  are.  sufficiently  ^powerAii  to  drive  a  wa^ 
ter  com  mitt.  The  topimship  06  Great  Tosaan  is  als6  distiiig^ished  'for  the  niasaber 
and  the  heaiiliy  of  its. springs. 

The  following  Wells  are  also  famed  as  possesang  seme' peculiar  real  or  Cinckid 
jms^xtSe^* '  Few  of  them  bav^e  undorgdne  a  ehesMCsd  analysis 

ThomtoB  Well,  bel#eeii  HHrtbum  mA  Mteford. 
Thurston  Well,  near  Longwitton. 

,1;  .         <>rqhUiW^li,Q|ith^iiQir*rV«{^.^«*«»r*^ 

SU  Mary's  W«U,4tiTwefdpw)mfr,    . 

.  •    .  St.  Sti^phpw's  W^llt  »f fts  JBdfqr,*    . . 

'  Dibden  Well,  ain]le.and  a  half  east  gfRolljtl^ury. 

-  gt,  Jjl^fyV Well,  at  N^wburgh,  neat. H^xhan), 


Dtn  Plot's  StafPowlAife, 


•  .  .  •    '  f 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  77 

Condiilton  WeU,  about  a  mile  north  from  Simonburn. 
Swallowship  WeU,  near  Hexham. 
Fleetham  Well,  near  Bambrouffh. 
The  Holy- Well,  near  Seaton  Delaval. 
Jesmond  Well,  near  Newcastle. 

There  are  many  Sacred  Fountains  in  this  county,  of  no  reputed  medicinal  virtue, 
yet  are  held  in  a  considerable  degree  of  popular  esteem  and  veneration,  fix>m  their  being 
anciently  appointed  to  religious  purposes. 

Cataracts  or  Water-faUs  present  tnemselves  in  many  places  among  our  mountains 
and  hills,  in  great  magnificence  and  beauty.  The  most  remarkable  is  the  Linhope- 
Linn,  or  the  Roughting-Linn,  near  the  mountain  of  Little  Cheviot ;  the  Chetlup- 
spout,  adjoining  the  high  mountain  Reedswire ;  the  Hareshaw  Linn,  near  BeDing- 
ham ;  and  the  Tecjcet,  near  Simonbum. 

MINERALOGY. 

It  does  not  accord  with  the  plan  of  a  work  of  this  general  nature,  to.  rive  a  copious 
and  scientific  account  of  all  the  numerous  facts  and  observations  whicn  the  present 
stock  of  mineralogical  knowledge  might  afibrd.  This  district  is  so  eminently  rich  in 
subterraneous  treasures,,  that  an  experimental  investigation  of  their  several  properties 
would  require  much  labour  and  abilities,  and  would  of  itself  form  a  work  of  consider- 
able magnitude  and  importance.  This  article  will,  therefore,  be  confined  to  a  brief  and 
popular  description  of  our  mines  and  minerals,  interspersed  with  eluch  other  observa- 
tions as  may  aflbrd  instruction  and  amusement  to  the  curious. 

The  county  of  Northumberland  (including  a  portion  of  Durham),  is  the  most  im- 
portant mining  district  in  Great  Britain.  The  quality  of  its  coal  is  unrivalled,  and 
the  quantity  it  annually  yields  is  probably  not  much  inferior  to  what  is  furnished  by 
all  the  rest  of  the  kingdom.  In  rich  and  valuable  deposit^  of  lejid  ore,  th?  wprld  can- 
not, at  present,  produce  its  parallel.  Its  internal  structure  has  bepn  ^xplpred  in  all 
directions,  and  offers  facts  which  invariably  expitp  the  astonishment  of  ttie  mineralo- 
gist, and  the  wonder  of  the  curious*. 

The  science  of  G^logy  unfolds  some  of  the  most  recondite  and  tremendous  natu- 
ral phenomena,  and  inspires  id^as  tl^e  most  si^blime  aqd  interesting.    It  exhibits  {i 

*  The  flubterraneous  geography  of  this  mo^  important  and  interesting  district  has  been  strangely  neff^ 
lected  Colliery  Viewer^  were  accustomed  \o  affect  mystery  imd  concealment ;  but  this  barbarous  jedousy 
is  now  disappearing  before  an  enlightened  liberality. 

To  prevent  the  necessity  of  repeated  references,  the  writer  begs  to  admowledge  the  valuable  assistance  he 
has  received  in  drawing  up  this  article,  from  '^  Observations  on  the  Geology  of  Northumberland  and  Dur« 
ham,  by  N,  J.  Winch,  E^.  F.  L.  S.  Honorary  Member  of  the  Geological  Society."  The  geology  and  botany 
of  NqrUiumberland  have  been  successfully  illustrated  by  this  able  and  industrious  naturalist  Some  interest* 
Ing  fiicts  have  been  i|cqi|ired  from  ^*  A  Geognastical  Sketch  of  the  Counties  of  Northumberland,  Durham^ 
and  part  of  Cumberknd,  by  Thomas  Thomson,  M.  D.  F.  R.  S."  (See  Annals  of  Philosophy  for  Novismbev 
^nd  Dfcen^ber,  1814) ;  and  a  few  curious  particulars  were  fbund  in  a  Communication  to  the  Geological  So* 
dety,  (psirt  \,  vol.  4.)  by  the  Hon.  Henry  Grey  Bennett,  M.  R  f .  R.  S,    Mr  Wes^iarth  Forster's  '« SectioQ 

VOL.  I.  U 


n  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

series  of  great  natural  revc^tioim,  of  which  we  pferceiy^  neither  the  commencement 
nor  the  termination ;  and  enables  us  to  trace  those  laws  which  the  Author  of  Nature 
has  given  to  the  universe,  and  which  cany  in  themselves  the  (datnents  of  their  own 
destruction.  The  globe  displays  no  signs  of  infan<^  or  of  old  t^,  for  its  materials 
are  alternately  dissolved  ana  renewed.  The  laws  now  existing  are  therefore  calcu- 
lated to  peipetuate  the  present  system  while  their  operation  is  continued. 

The  exterior  crust  of  the  globe  is  coniposed  of  two  distinct  systems  of  stratification^ 
evidently  formed  at  different  periods.  One  of  these  philosophers  call  Primefoal,  the 
other  Secandarif.  The  primeval  stratification  consists  of  beds,  or  parallel  masses  of 
farphyry,  granite^  schistus,  and  different  other  classes  of  rocks,  alway^s  lying  in  a  direc- 
tion  perpendicular  or  diagonal  to  the  horizoi^  ^^  as  if  they  radiated  from  the  centre 
of  the  earthy  or  were  the  keystones  to  the  mighty  arch  of  the  abyss  or  Tartarus  of  the 
andents."  These  layers  or  formations  exhmit  no  remains  of  animals  or  of  veget- 
ables. The  secondary  kind  of  stratification  consists  of  layers  of  granulated  sand- 
stone, limestone,  indurated  day,  iron-stone,  and  coaL  It  always  lies  m  a  sloping  hori- 
sontal  direction,  and  is  intimately  mixed  with  the  remains  of  various  organized  bo- 
dies. Between  the  primeval  and  secondary  systems  there  ijs  generally  found  a  chain 
of  conical  hills,  consisting  of  various  kinds  of  rounded  stcmes,  pebbles,  sand,  and  bre* 
das,  agglutinated  together  with  a  black-coloured  mud. 

The  slope  noticed  in  the  secondary  strata  is  called  the  Bise  and  Diq9,  and  which, 
with  partial  exceptions,  are  fh>m  south-west  to  north-east.  Where  a  stratum  indines 
to  the  east  it  is  caUed  an  east-dip,  and  thuft  it  reodves  its  name  in  ievery  other 
instiatice  from  th6  point  of  the  horizon  to  which  it  indines.  Eadi  stratum,  with 
Respect  to  those  above  and  below  it,  always  keeps  the  same  paralldism  and  Sndina- 
tion.  The  evenness  of  the  general  indination  is,  however,  sometimes  suddenly  inter- 
rupted by  a  variety  of  perpendicular  and  diagonal  fractures,  known  by  the  name 
of  Dikes,  or  f^eins.  A  stratum,  though  of  a  compound  quaUty,  is  with  respect  to 
those  above  and  below  it,  perfectly  homogeneous ;  that  is,  a  stratum  of  sdiistus  may 
lie  between  two  layers  of  sandstone,  and  wougfa  it  be  mixed  with  iron  and  petrified 
vegetables,  yet  the  sandstone  never  mixes  with  the  upper  and  lower  suffice  of  the 
schistus  stratum.  Exceptions  from  this,  as  from  other  general  rules,  may  however  be 
occasionally  found. 

It  is  remarkable  that  whatever  difierence  of  level  may  be  occasioned  by  a  dike,  a 
precipitous  face  of  rock  is  never  left  on  the  elevated  side,  nor  is  the  tower  sidebrou^t 
up  to  a  level  with  the  higher  by  an  alluvial  deposit,  but  the  surface  of  the  ground 
covering  the  dike  or  vein,  is  rendered  level  btf  the  absolute  removal  Ofthe  rodkp  strata 
on  the  eievateA  side !  This  phenomena  indicates  the  operation  6f  a  ^wetfm  agent 
employed  in  tearing  up  the  surface,  and  in  dispersing  the  fr'agments  oi  the  ruin. 

No  accurate  judgment  can  be  formed  of  the  true  cusposition  of  the  strata  from  thdr 
specific  gravities,  for  iron-stone  and  the  dosest  marbles  are  often  found  near  the  sur- 
face^ ana  an  hundred  fathoms  below  tliem  beds  of  schistus  and  oi  coal. 

6f  ^  Strata  from  Neweasde  upon  Tyne  to  die  Motmtain  of  Cross  Fell,  in  Cumberland/'  (2d,  edit  1S21)  is 
aa  ibvaliiaUe  treadae  firona  which  much  valuable  information  has  been  derived.  Several  useful  hints  have 
dao  been  found  m  Williams'  Mm.  Kingdom,  (Miller's  edit)  Whitehurst's  Orig.  and  Form.  Wallis'  Nor« 
Aurnb.    Art  Colliery,  Sup.  Ency.  Brit    Brand's  Htst  of  Neweasde.    The  Picture  of  Newcasdej  &c.  &c. 


KORITHUMBERULND.  79 


N£wci^0X]i£  CoAii  Fqemation. 

The  ccMl-^Mams  and  tiie  rodty  Btwte  the  ooal  tcmxmtiam 

tof  this  dbtxict^  ttre  in  part  cov«md  by  the  tukgaoma  limeBtoiie*,  Mid  i^t  upon  the 
letd>4nine  measums.  xliey  ooeopy  «  hoHovr,  or  trough,  of  whidi  the  extrone  length 
from  tfie  Ackfington  colliery,  mar  the  Coquet,  to  Cocl^eld^  in  the  neighbour  hood  of 
West  Auckland,  n  SB  miles;  and  the  bmkHii  fimn  Bywell  on  the  Tvne  to  the  Mt 
shore,  is  24  miles.  This  formation  bounds  the  coast  of  Northunibeiaaiid,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Coquet  to  the  Tyne,  a  distance  of  23  miles.  After  crossing  the  Tyne, 
the  magnes^an  Ifanestone  be^s  to  co^9«r  a  mrt  of  it^  and  continues  to  intrude  more 
and  more  upon  it,  until  both  approach  the  Tees.  If  a  line  be  drawn  £rett  AekKng^ 
ton  to  cross  the  l^e  at  Byweu;  the  Derwent  near  Allansford ;  and  the  Wear  below 
Wolsingham,  and  to  terminate  at  Coqkfield,  a  tolerably  correct  idea  may  be  formed 
of  its  westeili  limits. 

Within  this  district  Pontop  Pike  is  very  near  1000  feet  high ;  the  Newcastle 
Leases  is  205  feet  above  the  sea;  and  Benwell  Hills  and  Gateshead  Fell  are  some- 
what higher ;  yet  the  inequdities  of  lihe  surfa<5e  do  not  affect  the  dip  or  inclination 
of  the  coal  measuresf ;  and  where  they  are  inteniipted  or  cut  off  by  the  intennention 
of  a  valley,  they  will  be  found  on  the  sides  of  the  opposite  hills  at  the  same  level,  as 
if  the  beds  had  been  continuous.  Hence  Mr  Wincn  concludes,  that  the  presort  irre- 
gularity of  hill  and  dale  has  been  occasioned  by  the  partial  destruction  and  diRpersion 
of  the  uppermost  rocky  masses  which  constitute  the  coal  formation. 

The  tmckest  and  most  valual^  seam  of  coal  is  called  the  JS^  Main,  and  lies 
buried  at  Jarrow,  under  140  fathoms  of  beds  oi  stone.  In  the  mmes  between  New- 
castle and  Shields  this  s^m  averages  above  6  feet,  from  the  roof  to  ihe  floor.  The 
average  dip  of  the  coal  measures  is  1  inch  in  20:;  but  this  inclination  is  not  uniform. 
ThM  the  High  Main  rising  fron  Janow  bassets  out  in  the  cliffs  between  Ctdlercoats 
and  Tynemouth ;  and  on  tne  north^'West  reaches  Benwell  Hills.  At  Pontop  it  is 
met  with  at  881  fathoms  from  the  suiface ;  at  52  fathoms  on  Gateshead  Fell ;  and 
above  the  Ousebum  Bridge,  near  Newcastle,  at  14  fathoms. 

*  The  cliffs  at  Cullercoato  is  the  nordieni  extremity  of  the  nutgnesumUmtittme,  A  few  masses  again  oocmr 
among  the  rocks  of  sandstone  and  date  day  upon  which  l^^emoIltil  Castile  ^stands.  The  sea  coast  IWnn 
South  Shields  to  the  rocks  at  Hartlepool  constitutes  its  eastern  faoondary.-  Formiiq^  an  undulating  line%^ 
Boldon,  Hilton,  and  Ferrylifll,  it  reaches  the  Tees  below  WiOBton  Bridge ;  laid  contmuing  through  Yokli>. 
shire,  Derbyshire^  and  NottiDghamshire,  suddenly  terminates  near  Nottingham.  As  the  limestone  strata 
rests  upon  the  ooal  measures,  they  are  evidently  of  a  more  recent  formation  than  the  latter.  I%ough  no  coal 
nine  has  been  wrought  by  penetrating  the  limestone^  yet  the  working  of  some  oo&ienes  situated  in  its  west- 
ern bauBdarie%  have  been  carried  on  underneath  it  The  total  thickness  cf  the  limestone  has  not  been  ascer^ 
tained.  Near  Hartlepool,  thot^h  bored  to  the  depth  of  SIS  feet,  it  was  not  penetntted.  At  Pallion,  west  of 
Sunderland,  it  is  only  4iS  feet  thick^  below  which  the  ooal  measures  were  bored  Unongh  to  the  depth  dt  8M 
fe^,  without  findiii(g  a  eoal  seam  worth  working. 

f  By  ooal  measures,  or  metals,  are  meant  such  strata  as  are  commonly  found  acooiapanying  ooal,  witlMMt 
reference  to  metallic  fossils. 


80 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 


From  the  rapid  contraction  and  enlargement  of  the  different  coal-beds,  it  is  im- 
possible to  discover  in  the  coal  measures  any  r^ular  order  of  succession.  For  in- 
stance, in  Brandling  and  Hebbiun  collieries^  a  parang  of  stone  first  divides,  and  after- 
wards usurps  the  High  Main  coal  seam.  At  some  edlieries  east  from  Newcasde,  the 
Low  Main  ooal  is  found  at  59  fathoms  below  the  Hi^  Main ;  but  though  the  seam 
be  thick,  the  coal  is  extremely  firagile,  ajid  the  workuifls  dangeroiu*.  (!m  the  south 
side  of  the  Tyne,  at  Fdling,  Tyne  Main,  and  Gateshead  Fdl,  tiie  quality  of  this  oo«d 
is  very  much  improved ;  and  under  the  name  of  the  HwUom  Mam^  forms  one.c^  the 
most  valuable  seams  of  the  Wearf . 


*  The  fbllowing  are  the  depths  of  the  Pito  upoQ  the  Tyne,  aooordiiig 
the  Tyne  and  Wew  s— 


Soiahtfthe 

Tyne. 

Pmu 

Ryton  Moor 
mitfield 

180 
270 

Blaydon  Main     • 

150 

Thornky 

150 

Pontop 

4S0 

Windsor's 

480 

Marley  Hill 

816 

Tanfield  Moor     . 

800 

South  Moor 

270 

Stanley 

270 

Team      . 

360 

Ayton  Moor 

540 

Sheriff  Hill 

480 

TyneMahi 

890 

Brandling  Majn  - 

420 

Hebbum             • 

•           V           * 

769 

•Temple  Maip    , 

s 

f           f 

N^Hk  qfike  Tyne. 


Wjlam    . 
Greenwich  Moor 
Holywell 
WaUbotde 
Baker's  Main 
Montague  Main 
•Adair's  Main 
•Elswick 
Kenton   « 
Lawsm's  Main 
Heaton  Main 
BiggCs  Main 
St  Anthon's 
Walker 
Wallsend 
•Kiilingworth 
Long&nton 
Willmgton 
^Peccy  Main 
Flatwortb 
Shire  Moor 
Murton  Main 


Feet. 

192 

210 

216 

806 

150 

860 

570 

216 

420 

822 

482 

540 

818 

600 

630 

720 

680 

726 

714 

516 
270 
970 


Thow  marked  thus  *  are  firam  &  Flan  of  the  ColUerict,  pubUihed  1812. 
Dr.  Thomson  remarks,  that  the  entire  thickness  of  the  ooal  formation,  9fi  deduced  firom  a  succession  of 
straU,  does  not  much  exceed  27Q  fathoms,  or  l620  feet.    In  the  Charlotte  Pit,  Walker  Colliery,  the  strata 
has  been  bored  from  the  Higl)  Main  coal  to  the  depth  of  964  feet  from  the  surface. 

t  From  the  numerous  vestiges  of  ancient  pits,  the  High  Main  on  Newcastle  Town  Moor  i^pears  to  be 
exhausted.  The  lower  seams  under  the  same  lands  are  without  doubt  untouched.  Wallis,  in  the  history  of 
Northumberland,  gives  an  account  of  a  fire  happening  in  the  High  Main  coal,  about  150  years  ago,  on  the 
Town  Moor  and  Fenham  estates,  which  continued  to  bum  for  80  years.  It  begun  at  BenweU  about  a  quar« 
ter  of  a  mile  north  of  the  Tyne,  and  at  last  extended  itself  northward  into  the  grounds  of  Fenham,  nearly  a 
mile  from  where  it  first  appeared.  There  were  eruptions  at  Fenham  in  nearly  twenty  places ;  sulphur  and 
sal-ammoniac  being  sublimed  from  the  apertures ;  but  no  stones  of  magnitude  ejected.  Red  ashes  and  burnt 
day,  the  relicts  of  this  pseudo-vokano,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  western  declivity  of  BenweU  hQl,  and  it  is 
credibly  reported  that  die  soil  on  some  part  of  the  Fenham  estate  has  been  rendered  unproductive  by  the 
action  of  the  ^. 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


81 


It  wouUI  exceed  oiir  limits  to  ^ve  th^  <JU£Ee)iBat  sections  of  ooal  stBtfta  which  have 
he0n  pubUihed.  Dr.  Thomson  9$js,  that  thp  beds  which  compose  the  coal  formation 
are  IBS  sii  number.  The  coal  sworn  may  ampunt  to  ^5^  but  a  considerable  number  of 
these  are  iiidgnifioant  in  point  of  thiiekness*.  ; 

A  variety  of  perpendicular  and  diagonal  fi^a^c^fui^es  int^rAect  the  ooal  stratification  in 
all  dir^tions,  and  by  rending  it  from  the  top  to  ihe  bottom,  divide  the  great  coal-^ 
field,  into  thousands  of  lesser  indosure^.  The  mineT^-  particularize  these  fissiures  into 
Dykes^  Backs^  HUd^es^  and  Trauhks*  /  ' 

Dikes  are  perpendicular  rente  of  the  spljbd  strata,  varying  :from  two  feet  to  several 
ftithoms  in  breadth.  They  seldom  bneftk  the  unifbqm  incUnatipn  of  the  strata,  though 
they  almost  always  shatter  and  debase  its  quality  to.  a  considerable  distance  on  each 
side.  They  have  their  speeifie  namfs  fibm  the  s^bst^nc^  with  which  they  are  fiUed. 
The  WhUidikeM  are  fiUed.  with  baaaltf^  which  has  appa,i;ently  issued  hot  from  the  in« 

*  The  thickneit  shd  niwaber  of  1i^<^]f^l^;8tfii)ta,  or  f^«nu|»  in  oni^  of  our,  pdndpal  coal  mines^  will  appear 
ihm  the  tdliming  ^flctiqi)  of  ito  00^  s^atfi;^^ 

ST.   ANTHOK'S  CdLLIEB^Y. 


Seams. 


1  Cod 
a  Ditto 

3  Ditjto       y , 

4  Ditto 

5  Ditto 

6  Ditto     ' . 

7  Ditto 

3>Pi|tp       •.   .   . 
9  High  Mian  Coal 

10  Cotfl 

11  Ditto  ; 
13  Ditto       .  .     ; 

13  Ditto 

14  Ditto       .        . 

15  Ditto       .        , 
16:  Low  Mam  tU»a 


TWdkneiito 


I  i 


i;i7 


0) 

.0, 

1 

0 

& 

0 

1 
6 

0 

1 

s 

8 
0 
6 


A 


6 
8 

0 

Oi 

d 

6 
6 

3 
2 

9 
6 


O^lill  tq  each 

•    seam* 

Ki*. 

Ft.  In, 

.  /      S4 

0     6 

44 

1      2 

•       66 

1    s 

82 

2     2 

.         »4 

0    8 

..       JOl 

2    4 

.    .  106 

1     0 

.       128 

0     0 

,       152 

0     0 

.      193 

0    '5 

:     200. 

.2^2 

..     219 

2     5 

.       247 

0     2 

,       256 

2     8 

.       258 

1     6 

.  .   MO 

1     S 

In  die  a|)ave  pit,  icM^  shaft,*  there:are^l«>UMtfliiaB'l[6s(^^  bit  many,  offbeat,  finmi  their  thioMMj, 

are  not  workable.  Tbe  9thy  called  the  High  Main  Coal,  and  the  16th,  the  Low  Main  Coal,  are  the  two  prin^ 
dpai  seams  Ibr  ifibrding  qiiantities  of  cold,  being  together  twelTO  ftet  and  a  half  thick,  and  are  those  most 
generally  wrought  Bat  die  lOCh,  ISth,  and  14lli,  aM  ail  workable  seams,  and  will  afford  considerable 
quantities  df  coal ;  the  aggregate  of  the  ibree  being  neariy  nine  feet  and  a  hatf  thick:  so  that  the  total  thick* 
ness  of  the  workable  seama  in  thki  ooHiery  ameuntB  to  22  feet  At  the  Quatrelton  Colliery,  near  Paisley,  the 
coal  ii  accumulated  Us  it%efein«pilfe  of  strata  to  tbe  unexanpled  thicknasil  of  nmety-two  feet  A  mos^ 
accurate  de8cripCion,'and  beantiftd  pUm  and  sMIicds  -of  this  curious  pheniNnepoiip' were  communicated  to  the 
Literary  and  l^hEosopbied  Sodetf  o£  Newcastle,  by  William  Watten,  Esq,  o^Norvfidi,  attheseqMest  qf 
George  Houston,  Esq.  of  Johnstone,  the'piroprieior* 

■       /■•••.  :        •  .         . 

t  Them^t  celebmM  basaltic  dike*  or  vein,  liat  ttivamm;  the  ooul  fiddj  enters  the  sea  from  the  cliffs  at 
CuUercoats.  The  beds  on  its  north  side  are  thrown  down  90  fathoms,  from  which  circumstance  it  is  called 
the  ninety-faiAom  dike.    From  tbe  sea  it  tanges  through  die  ^oiiatry  formerly  called  Killingworth  Moor,  an^ 

VOL,  I,  X 


\ 


82  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

tenor  parts  of  the  earth,  as  the  coal-veins  on  each  side  of  it  are  redueed  to  a  cinder, 
and  the  other  strata  severely  scorched.  Dikes  of  this  description  are  found  in  the 
colliery  at  Walker,  near  Newcastle*.  The  Stone  Dikes  are  filled  with  softer  nsMterials, 
and  being  full  of  fissures,  admit  considerable  quantities  of  water,  day  JDAee  are  the 
most  numerous.  They  turn  the  water  so  effectually  as  to  force  it  to  rise  to  the  sur- 
face, and  burst  out  in  wells  and  springs.  Rubbish  Dikes  are  filled  with  sand,  day, 
and  rounded  stones,  and  are  generalfy  a  ^"eat  inconvenience  to  coal  mines.  Sl^ 
Dikes  J  in  the  coal  fields,  are  usually  fiUed  with  hard  masses  of  the  substances  of  the 
adjoining  strata  confusedly  mingled  together.  When  the  miner  finds  the  vein  he 
has  been  working  thrown  below  his  feet,  he  calls  it  a  Downcast  Dike ;  but  if  it  be 
thrown  upwards  it  is  then  an  Upcast  Dike. 

Backs  are  perpendicular  chinks,  dividing  the  strata  by  a  narrow  crevice,  sometimes 
beautifuUv  polished,  and  at  others  fiUed  with  dusty  feruginous  particles,  filta^d 
downwards  from  beds  of  iron  stone. 

Hitches  raise  or  depress  portions  of  strata  in  a  small  degree.  They  are  mere 
crazy  and  shattered  irregularities  of  the  strata.  They  cause  sudden  but  sh<Nrt  alt^u- 
tions  of  the  dip,  and,  in  these  cases,  debase  the  coal  and  its  concomitant  strata,  and 
throw  the  backs,  pailings,  and  cutters,  into  confusion. 

It  now  remains  to  notice  briefly  the  different  substances  that  form  the  coal  measures. 
But  first  it  should  be  observed,  that  each  layer,  seam,,  or  stratum,  is  parted  from  the 
two  contiguous  surfaces  by  a  thin  lamina^  of  soft  dusty  matter,  which  renders  them 
easy  to  disunite.  Where  these  divisions  or  partings  are  not  found,  the  strata  are  tech- 
nioilly  said  to  have  a  bad  parting. 

There  are  three  varieties  of  coal ;  the  Slate  or  C&mfncn  Coal^  the  Cannel  or  SlpUnf 
Coal^  and  the  Coarse^  also  called  Splint  Coal.  The  latter  is  slaty  in  its  texture,  and 
seems  to  be  intermediate  between  common  and  cannel  coal.  It  occurs  at  Cockfield 
and  many  other  places.  Splint  coal  is  found  at  Wylam,  Throckley,  Kenton,  and 
some  of  the  Lamb^n  collieries  on  the  Wear.  These  two  varieties,  containing  littie 
bitumen  or  sulphur,  are  used  in  iron-founderies,  potteries,  &c. ;  and  s^int  serves  as  a 
material  for  building  cottages  and  out*houses  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Throckley  FelL 
Fine  splint  occurs  only  occasionally.  It  takes  a  good  polish,  and  when  turned  in  a 
lathe  into  snuff-boxes  and  other  trinkets,  is  very  similar  to  real  Jet  Specimens  of 
splinty  according  to  Mr.  Wallis,  have  been  procured  at  Ingo  and  Chirton«  glowing 

passing  near  Gosfbrth  Churdi  imd  I>entoii  Hall,  chmmms  the  Tyne  in  the  direction  of  Byton  Church.  The 
same  dike,  it  is  supposed,  travei'sts  the  lead  mine  district,  and  produces  lateral  and  valuable  metalliferous 
veins  therrin.  The  most  oonsidefuble  dike,  S4  feet  wide^  passes  through  Cciley  Hill,  four  miles  west  of  New* 
castle.  Another  vein  traverses  Walker  Coilkry.  At  Walbottle  Dean  a  double  vein  of  basalt  crosses  the  ra- 
vine in  a  diagonal  direction.  A  double  vein,  each  m  feet  wide,  may  be  seen  an^mg  the  rocks  at  the  south- 
eastern  comer  of  the  promontory  on  which  Tynemouth  Castle  stands.  Another,  about  nine  £wt  wide,  ap« 
pears  in  the  cliSs  near  Seatoli  Sluice.  A  small  whin  dike  was  fionnerly  quarried  near  Bedlington;  and  ano- 
ther is  found  in  Cowpen  Colliery,  which  has  charred  the  ooal  in  contact  with  it.  The  Thistle  pit  dike, 
which  is  a  downcast  of  eight  fathoms  to  the  south,  was  the  southern  limit  of  the  ancient  collieries  at  Heaton 
and  Benton  Bank,  and  by  perftirstmg  it,  the  Hesten  Mine  in  the  year  1S15,  was  inundated. 

• 

<»  See  also  Bailey's  Snrv.  of  Duriiam,  p.  32. 


NORTHUMBEKLAND.  88 

with  aQ  the  splendid  and  rich  ooloulrs  of  the  rainbow^  in  the  most  beautiful  enamel, 
with  a  high  natural  polish  like  a  mirror.  These  varieties  of  coal  are  not  found  to  oc- 
cupy separate  and  peculiar  seams  of  the  coal  formation,  but  alternate  irregularly  with 
one  another  as  layers  of  the  same  bed* 

In  this  coal  district  Potter's  Clay  is  found  immediately  below  the  vegetable  soil. 
It  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  coarse  earthen  ware,  bricks,  and  tiles.  Shale^  or 
slate  day,  is  common,  and  possesses  various  shades  of  colour  and  degrees  of  indunu 
tion.  Hard  black  and  dark  grey  shale  is  called  by  the  miners  Black  MeUd^  and  is 
used  by  the  manufacturers  of  potters'  saggers,  and  fire  bricks ;  but  for  the  latter  pm*- 
pose  a  hard  bituminous  shale,  lorming  the  floor  of  the  coal  seams,  is  preferred.  Shale 
of  a  blueish  grey  colour  is  called  Bme  Metal.  A  very  hard  mixture  of  shale  and 
sandstone,  sometimes  containing  scales  of  micas,  is  called  Sard  Blue  Metal.  Clay- 
stone  is  not  common.    It  is  called  by  miners  Black  SUme^  or  Blue  Stone. 

The  beds  of  sandstone  in  this  coal  field  are  very  numerous,  and  are  known  by  the 
name  of  Post.  The  stone  is  usually  fine  grained,  but  soft,  and  not  very  durable  when 
used  as  a  building  stone.  Its  colour  is  most  commonly  grey,  with  a  shade  of  yellow. 
Some  of  the  seams  of  post  is  of  considerable  thickness,  but  the  greater  number  thin. 
The  White  Flagstone  Plate  at  Hew(»rth,  and  on  Gateshead  Fell,  is  about  two  fathoms 
thick.  The  Grindstone  SiU  crops  out  at  Byker  Hill,  Whickham  Banks,  and  Gates- 
head Fell,  where  it  is  about  11  fathoms  thick.  It  is  (quarried  for  the  well  known 
Newcastle  grindstones ;  and  from  its  softer  parts  filtenng  stones  are  made.  Some- 
times the  upper  part  of  this  bed  is  abundantly  impropriated  with  yellow  ochre,  which 
is  sold  under  the  name  of  2>y^  Sofid.  Good  Fire  Stone  is  quarried  at  Burradon,  near 
Killingworth :  glass-house  furnaces  are  constructed  with  it  Whiter  Grey,  and  Brown 
Postf  are  other  common  varieties  of  sandstone.  Grey  Whin^  or  Brown  Whin,  is  a 
very  hard,  dirty,  brown  quartzose,  resembling  granular  quartz.  There  is  a  bed  of 
this  rock  in  W  albottle  Dean.  What  is  called  by  miners  the  Band,  in  coal,  is  com- 
posed of  bituminous  shale,  day,  and  iron  pyrites  or  sandstone. 

The  minerals  that  accompany  the  coal  measures  are  calena,  which  is  found  with 

{pyrites  in  the  nodulea  of  clay-ironstone  imbedded  in  shale.     Sometimes  the  ironstone 
brms  tl^  beds.    Azure  iron,  and  calcareous  ^par,  are  also  common. 

Independent  Coal  Foumation. 

The  beds  of  this  formation  are  very  extensive,  though  the  seams  cannot  be  com- 
pared in  magnitude  with  those  of  the  Newcastie  formation.  In  the  mountainous 
parts  of  the  district  they  seldom  exceed  20  inches  in  thickness.  In  the  lead-mine  dis- 
trict coal  generally  rests  upon  a  plate  of  slate  day.  Crow  Coal,  (so  called  from  being 
found  in  tiie  crow  or  crop  of  the  earth),  abounds  in  the  hij^  lands  near  the  source  m 
the  South  Tyne  and  the  ADen,  and  near  tii^  summit  of  Cross  Fell.  Here  it  crops, 
or  is  squeezed  out,  as  the  miners  term  it.  This  fossil  is  extremely  brittle,  of  a  dirty, 
sooty,  black  colour,  and  contains  much  sulphur,  which  renders  its  smoke  extremely 
offensive.  It  is  mixed  with  day  and  made  up  into^  balls,  which  yield  considerable 
heat  in  burning,  but  emit  scarcely  any  flame.  This  fact  refutes  a  vulgar  notion,  that 
the  goodness  of  coal  is  in  proportion  to  its  depth,  for  tiiis  coal,  which  is  worked  by 


84  G£N£IUX.  DBSCRIFTION  OF 

drifts  on  Cross  Fell,  Ke&  9as&/eet  bdmv  the  loweH  ^  the  Neweastie  hede,  and  musk 
tharefore  have  been  deposited  loiig^  heSote  them. 

'<  On  leaving  the  mountainois  district,"  observes  Mr.  Winch,  ''  the  seams  of  coal 
are  found  improved  in  point  of  quality  and  thiclmess,  and  it  mil  appear  from  the  £d- 
lowing  localities,  over  what  an  extent  of  country  that  mineral  is  found. 

'<  It  occurs  at  StuUick,  six  miles  south-west  of  Hexham ;  at  Wall  near  FalloW-> 
field ;  near  BelUn^am  on  the  North  Tyne,  where  many  good  seams  are  found ;  at 
Kerrybum,  near  the  foot  of  the  Carter,  on  the  borders  ra  foxburghshire ;  in  the  vale 
of  the  Reed ;  at  Ebdon;  at  Woolcoats  on  the  moors  near  Harbottle  Castle ;  at  He&< 
ky burst ;  at  Healy*coat ;  near  CarHngton  Castle ;  at  Newton ;  at  Shilbotde ;  at  £ff- 
Un^axh ;  near  Craster ;  near  BeadneU ;  near  Bdford ;  and  at  Tweedmouth  in  the 
vicmky  of  Berwick. 

^'  In  the  north-eastoTi  part  of  N<»i;faumberiand,  near  tiie  sea,  the  seams  are  tcderably 
tiuek,  and  very  good  in  quality ;  that  of  ShilbDfctle  for  instance,  which  supplies  AIn- 
wide  with  coal.  The  mines  are  usually  of  inconsiderdble  depth  in  comparison  of  those 
in  tike  Newcastle  coal  field ;  that  of  Smlbottle  is  one  of  tile  deepest,  measuring  45  &• 
thoapds.  That  of  Newton  measures  16  fathoms,  and  sonae  of  me  pits  near  £erwick 
only  15  fathoms.  The  mines  of  Stubhck  and  WaH,  dn  the  borders  of  the  mountaiur 
OU8  district,  are  severally  16  and  19  fiithoaia  deep,  and  eaioh  contains  three  seams  of 
eoal. 

'^  The  coal  alternates  with  siatd-clay,  fimestone,  and  sandstone,  and  at  many  of  the 
l^aces  where  coal  is  worked,  limiestoiie  is  also  ^piairied.  In  the  maritime  district, 
from  the  Coquet  to  the  Tweed,  the  measures  dip  to  t^  south-east,  and  unHke  the 
beds  of  the  Newcaatle  coal-field  undulate  with  the  sur&ee  of  the  eartib." 

Origin  of  Coal. 

Respecting  the  origin  of  coal  much  geoloffieal  discussion  has  been  excited.  On. 
subjecting  it  to  distilSition  in  close  vessels,  it  mst  yields  a  watery  liquor,  then  an  ethe- 
rial  or  vouttile  oil,  afterwards  volaitile  alkali,  and  htatly,  a  thidc  ana  greasy  oil.  But 
it  is  remarkable,  that  by  rectifying  this  last  oil,  a  trangparent,  thin,  and  light  oil,  of  a 
straw  colour,  is  produced,  which  being  exposed  to  the  air,  becomes  black,  like  animal 
oils.  From  this  and  oth^  observations,  the  general  opinion  is,  that  all  coals,  bitu- 
mens, and  other  oily  substances  found  in  the  mineral  kingdom,  derive  their  origin 
from  vegetables  buried  in  the  earth,  during  tlie  successive  progress  of  stratification ; 
since  it  is  well  known,  that  only  organized  bodies  have  the  power  of  producing  oily 
and  fat  substances*  Ih:.  Thomson,  from  a  variety  of  experiments,  infers  that  coal  is 
a  peculiar  combustible  substance,  formed  by  the  union  of  certain  proportions  of  car* 
bon,  hydrogen,  oxygen,  and  azote.  But  if  coal  Kally  be  a  definite  compound  q£  a 
determinate  numfaier  of  atoms  of  ^^di  of  these  constituentisi,  yet  no  substance  exactly 
similar  to  pit  coal  haa  ever  been  formed  by  mixing  them  together.  This,  however,  v 
qpt  at  all  surprizing,  as  every  chemical  analysis  involves  the  destruction  of  some  part 
of  the  specimen. 

*♦  AU  the  strats^  incumbent  on  coal,"  observes  the  judicious  Whitehurst,  "  contain  a 
great  variety  of  vegetahle?;  or  the  impressions  of  them ;  and  particul^ly  the  bamboo 


■^»l       —  - 


of  In^  striated ond  jginted it diffonml; digfmfmr,  ^ ¥«^9lHS 9i1^¥fi¥ip)l^ 
the  Anerkaii  fenut^  fiprD»  ffBrn*  iaqd  mmy  loti^er  ^p^oii^  pi  ^f  v^ejt^^  kjuc|gd^ 
not  known  to  sexist  in  sny  otb^.fmt  pf  tl)iB  worM^i^^ivin^  s^t^,  [f  h^y  ^^  ^4ofim 
in  the  solid  substance  of  stone  and  clay."  He  proceeds,  "  it  is  matter  worthy  c^  n^ 
tice,  that  the  superior  strata  contain  iron-stone,  coal,  and  vegetable  impressions,  but 
no  marine  productions  whatever.  iVjri4  P^^  ^  i)?^l^or  strata,  which  are  limestone, 
contain  the  exuvae  of  marine  animals,  but  no  vegetable  forms."  And  concludes  thujs, 
«  Aj»  ajl  atmt»  ftwowpwiyjaig  (309!  p^iv^^siriJy  f4^i^  m^  yiogfiifibX^  %T^ft,it^eems 
to  ii^ttt^  ih9t  (fU  coal  wr^  ^ngiw^V  4^^^  fr^om  ^  mg^tabUs  thus  emelop^  i^ 
tfie  0tone  or  c^.  A»4  w^  may  wy  a§  mw^  of  jttve  prigip  ^  iron ;  fpr  jthe  s^ijnp.^jtrajt^ 
«lsp  produce  ifOQ-^l^ ;  for  Fnerar;er^¥Pg|ilt^le9  ^^  oh^pf^  tp  i^y  in  «4;ag^ajpt 
ditches^  the  w^r^  thereof  a|ipe^  ao]\fey/' 

It  is  ociiPtoin  thiit  in  ftJJ  t^  stzot^  V^bji^  WOfmWfW  f(f^  ^ifW^P  ren^^ns  |o^  ani; 
maU  jand  voget^^ble^  93*^  d^y  dififlfFri^r^,  ^9^  t^  ,m^  ^tsel^  is  pfl^n  mixed  yfUhti^ 
fonns  /of  org^nifsed  bodies.  TJlpi^  '^>f^  ip  4J^  £19^^  Q^  1^#)^»  n^^i*  ^x^ter,  j^r  ^Bqi^  in 
large  muftees,  rasembUng  the  la^kA4U94 1)]^^^  ^  ^^^^  r^d^jy  pw$f)i^  tocher. 
Similar  dbaKwma  hitye  al^  ;bow  .^b^jery^d  ^  Ic^^^^  igi^^r  I^uxpmbur^h^  ft  ^Brull^ 
niisar  Cdtqg^  and  Booq^  M^  at  tlite  \iott4m/^  t^i  f^^^  .^  ^ouAtft^  yf)mk  P^  f<y>w 
Lyons  to  Strasbiir^.    3if  J^P^h  jiian^  qi^d  a  ^ge  spcin^ef^  ffji  fq^il,  found  in  ^c^- 

$il9ce.c^.Q9id  B($i^  il^  found  in  .f^  p^  (^n  X/fi^<^l)^|;§^  •Co^vpiop,  l^  fir  wood^9^  Mf 
coal.  Coal  has  indeed  been  discovered  in  various  stages  of  its  transmut^op  firom  the 
y«0QtflUie  0u])ytgin«o.  The  .rooCs  offOfmj^  tbe iWf!^  mino^fuw  IHp^n,  arip  varie^ted 
^mih  iwmepsiciis  ofjoinl^  ^^fflf  s,  .fein^^s,  y/Cit^ho^  4^^  The  schistvs  be<^  ii)  the^^al- 
Jing  Hjfl  »piil;  mAr  Tt/^^x^Xi  9^^  J^^jp^jti^  ^ PflPHqgns  ^jf  p^ne  ,con^,  ,eaf s  oi  bafley^ 
«md  4?0Qts  of  :t|i];oip»»  the  ^  of  whji^  w^re  pqn^estfdM^  irc^^-istonje*  Impr^ion^s  df 
lems  lom^  f^jmt)^  oMbaJ^Md  ^90^  ^k^  .^njtoigi.M^  ^prtof^  ^Uiedps^  Miy()e^di2€4  troes 
«Q^.i6pUttd  «t  iBiggfl'P  Mafo  45olUery.  ^  J;i^  A^t  ^  pr  8Q  ioet  Icmg,  with  al}  itp 
branches,  was  lately. ^aQiwped.i|i#  bisid  ^  {^o^^a^^jj)^  ^  JHj^h  ^ewprtj^,  wear 
j^ieiirt^Ktle.  Of  tlw  9PgR|ilc  j^jwm  ti^  tnuj^  ^^[i^  ^g^  br^|«^  we  ^licecoj^,  w^ile 
4^e  fmtkp  small !^a«ftifae$,  a9d.)(9^<99»  >«re  lawveiit^  ^tp  .^»)^.  ^.  Wimj^  nf^arJI^ 
ifchait  Ihe.i^iAalliit^  of^sprf,  :«fe4  by  tt^  nwcjrs  .eq^fif4l¥^3<>we  i^^  uniy^- 

wBy  to  .9^Mtt  .i«»irfi^  fflf  <;^W«-  BjfVftljve  ,9b^  1^  Cr^qfunWitly  m^]t  .Vjitb  ^i^  *^^€i  JJewr 
jMfld^  j(»>9lil€Jbd»  but  so  vaapfjp^  |i^^ 

Tb#^|u»>96^tH)Wd.pi|3^w^  which  (ha$f^  ))een  adduced  w  il^u^tisatipii  of  this 
mJ^^Qt,  ioldtle  «»:|»  QOjnefaii^i  jljb#  !tb(3  |di|Byent  fj^^a^  pf  ^joal  wem  niearlv  pontempo^ 
«LPii^s>iiri^  Oilgw49e^  bo^ f  (|mt  liv^bMib^r .f oi^i^  by  Inu^^tjoi^.of  ^^e  se;^  i/sfOr^ 
^6Au)i|^«i  w^ter.ioir  ypliffitwitt^  (^  tbe:  iwprl4,  .4s  a  m^^^  <^  WflW^  still  ajt 

iiiiae  Mn wg  pbllompbwa^  The,B«»njpnly.wppWpdppi^  that  tlje  jcpal  sto^ta 
ane.titliw  ^1^  M41o«^Qa^)^fo6;p?»  ^flP^^        tpget)]^,  .pr  ]^gfi  (f^esits  ^thiicKvi^  dowi) 

I  ^  VhennmaMr  In  mlMi  the  (j^Mat  iMtuisd  isenbltiqnsli^^       OiinAitiQyCiQfithio.wr^  ^ye  iffta^  fi^Saia^yj^ 
excited  mucb  oontrovenial  discussion.     The  writer  has,  however^  adopted  what  appeared  to  be  appropriate 

lP»ws,wi$hii»twjF,npfww^^  i^^^ -t^WJ^K*!  .ywc^  of 

VOL,  I,  y 


86  GENERAL  DESCRIPTIOlf  OF 

by  decay  of  time,  and  afterwards  buried  by  some  of  the  changes  to  which  the  globe 
is  liable.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  cause  of  the  production  of  this  strata  it 
seems  to  have  acted  at  repeated  intervak,  and  without  great  violence  or  convul- 
sion* 

Discovery  op  Coal. 

The  most  obvious  method  to  ascertain  the  preselic^  of  coal  is  to  CompaK  llie  strata 
at  the  smlface  with  the  section  of  some  neighbouring  colliery,  on  the  oip  side  of  the 
ground  to  be  explored.  Where  rivers,  ravines,  ana  valleys,  expose  high  sectiittis  of 
strata,  the  method  of  discovery  is  still  more  obvious.  If  neither  of  these  advantages 
is  to  be  found,  the  upper  strata  of  the  district  to  be  explored  must  be  carefully  ex^ 
amined.  High  mountains,  composed  of  ahemate  layers  of  hard,  solid  limestcme,  and 
sandstone,  are  rardy  found  to  produce  coal  in  abundance,  and  nevar  in  excdOtenoe. 
Undulating  grouna,  composed  of  sandstone  and  schistus,  commcMily  produce  ooal« 
seams.  Springs  that  eject  particles  of  coal,  and  are  tinned  with  a  dark  ochrey  sub- 
stance, indicate  the  presence  of  coal.  A  similar  conclusion  may  be  confidently  made 
when  a  line  of  springs,  covered  with  a  blue,  <»ly-looking  scum,  and  affording  an  as- 
tringent  water,  is  found  in  the  direction  of  the  out-burst  of  seams  on  the  dip  side  of 
hills.  Pf eces  of  coal  found  in  working  freestone  quiorries,  are  si^s  of  a  coal  neighbour- 
hood: but  it  is  impossible  from  these  to  know  how  near  or  ftr  off  you  are  from  the 
stratum  of  coal. 

Boring  is  the  most  effectual  method  of  discovering  coaL  The  took  used  in  this  art 
are  very  simple.  The  boring  rods  are  made  from  three  to  four  feet  long,  and  one 
inch  and  a  half  square,  with  a  solid  or  male  screw  at  one  end,  and  a  hollow  one  at  the 
other,  by  which  tney  are  fastened  together,  and  as  the  hole  formed  by  them  increases 
in  depth,  other  rods  are  added.  The  chisd  is  about  dght  inches  loi^,  and  two  and  a 
half  broad  at  the  extremity,  which  is  screwed  on  to  the  end  of  the  lower  rod,  and  a 
lever  or  handle  is  put  through  an  eye  at  the  top  of  the  uppar  rod. 

The  mode  of  operation  is,  to  lift  up  the  rods  a  little,  and  th^n  let  them  fall,  turning 
them  at  the  same  time  gently  round.  By  a  continuance  of  this  motion  a  hole  is 
fretted,  and  worn  by  degrees  through  the  hardest  strata  or  rocks.  The  borers  caif  fix 
on  handles  for  two,  three,  or  four  persons  to  work,  as  they  find  it  necessary.  After 
they  get  down  to  a  certain  depth,  the  rods  are  wrought  by  a  bracke ;  a  box  oi  wood 
is  mrst  inserted  into  the  ground,  to  keep  the  rods  in  a  vertical  or  straight  direction, 
and  a  triangle  is  erected  over  the  spot  wnere  the  boring  is  to  be  made  (which  is  about 
three  inches  in  diameter),  fear  the  sake  of  drawing  up  the  rods ;  they  have  one  kcTf  or 
temporary  handle,  for  unscrewing,  and  anotha*  for  securing  the  rods  frt>m  falling  back 
again.  They  use  a  dose  wimble  to  bring  up  sludge  and  soft  matter.  When  the 
chisel  is  Uunted,  or  has  cut  down  four  or  six  inches,  the  rods  are  lifted  up,  either  all 
together,  if  there  be  convenience,  or  by  nieces,  when  a  key  is  used  to  keep  the  rods 
from  dropping  down  the  hole ;  the  dusel  is  screwed  off,  and  the  wimUe  or  scoop 

*  Rees's  Ency.  in  verbo  CoaL    BnNigniaifs  MhienJogy.     Whit^ursf a  Orig.  and  FomL    Brand's  Hkt 
of  Newc.  vol.  ii.  p.  241,  et  seq.    Annala  of  PhiL  vols.  xL  &  xiv.    Trans,  of  the  GeoL  Society,  voL  iy.  pt  1. 


NORTHUMEBRLAND.  87 

BfstweA  on.  This  being  put  down,  brin^  uti  aiftcbrwaEds  the  dtutt  or  pulverized  mat- 
ter of  the  stratum  througn  which  the  chisd  has  cut,  and  shews  as  well  what  kind  of 
nuMsat  they  are  bmng  in,  as  the  exact  depth  thereof^. 

The  occurrence  of  mkes  and  occasional  alterations  in  the  dip,  render  the  boring  o{ 
three  or  more  holes  necessary,  to  determine  exactly  to  what  point  of  the  horizon  the. 
strata  iadine  before  any  capital  opwttion  for  the  winning  of  a  mine  can  be  under* 
tadcen ;  because  a  very  small  error  in  this  may  hasard  tne  obtaining  a  ffreat  part  of 
the  coal,  or  at  least  incur  a  double  expenoe  in  recovering  it.  When  hmes  are  to  be 
bored  for  these  purposes,  they  may  be  fixed  in  such  a  situation  from  eadi  othar,  as  to 
suit  the  places  where  pits  are  afterwards  to  be  sunk,  by  which  means  most  of  the  ex« 
pence  may  be  saved ;  as  these  pits  would  otherwise  require  to  be  bored,  wh^  sink* 
mff,  to  discharge  their  water  into  the  mine  below. 

The  operation  is  generally  aitrusted  to  persons  of  int^rity .  Their  accounts  of  the 
thickness,  and  nature  of  the  strata^  axe  the  most  accurate  imaginable,  and  are  trusted 
to  with  great  eonfidiKice ;  for  as  very  few  choose .  to  take  a  lease  of  a  new  coUiery 
which  has  not  been  sufficiently  explored  by  boring,  it  is  necessary  the  account  should 
be  fiiithful,  it  being  the  <Hily  rule  to  guide  the  land  owner  in  letting  his  coal,  and  the 
tenant  in  taldng  it  These  notes  are  catted  by  B^rand  '<  the  Grand  Arcana  of  the  Coal 
Trade.'' 

Winning  of  Coal. 

The  wmnim^  of  a  colliery  is  the  draining  of  a  field  of  coal,  so  as  to  render  the  several 
seams  aooessiUe,  by  pits  to  be  sunk  from  the  surface.  To  the  coal  owners  the  win* 
mng  and  working  of  collieries  are  very  expensive,  and  frequentilv  attaided  with  con* 
sid^able  risk ;  for  though  voy  large  fortunes  have  been  made  m  this  business,  vet 
manv  have  been  lost ;  the  unexpected  alteration  of  the  strata,  £rom  dikes  and  ouier 
troubles ;  the  frequent  and  dreaofiil  explosions  from  inflammdble  air ;  the  great  depth 
of  the  shafts,  and  increasing  quantities  of  water  to  be  raised,  baffle  the  most  experi- 
enced artists,  and  overecmie  tl^  amazing  powers  of  the  steam-engine. 

Sometimes  die  coal  lies  in  sudi  elevated  situations  that  it  can  be  drained  by  an  adit  or 
day-level  drift ;  but  the  prudenoe  of  this  method  depends  upon  circumstances.  It  is 
a  mode  of  winning  which  is  seldom  adopted  in  this  district,  as  the  localities  of  situation 
are  usually  sudi  as  to  render  it  ineUgibief .    Where  the  situation  of  the  ground  will 


*  In  the-jear  1S05,  Mr  James  Ryan  announced  a  coosidermble  improvement  in  boring,  and  which  he 
•ecured  by  patents.  Hk  borer  is  «  cylindrical  cutter,  by  which  a  solid  piece  of  each  stratum  is  cut,  and  by 
other  tools  broiu^ht  vertically  to  the  surface.  By  these  borers  the  inventor  proposed  to  form  a  hole  from 
eight  inches  to  near  as  many  feet  in  diameter. 

The  operation  of  boring  always  incurs  a  serious  expence.  According  to  an  estimate  by  Mr  Buddie^  in  ISOT^ 
the  expence  of  boring  to  the  depth  of  100  fathoms,  in  the  counties  of  Roxburgh  or  Berwick/which  he  ex- 
plored for  coal,  amounted  to  the  enormous  sum  of  1,100/. 

t  There  is  a  tunnel,  or  subterraneous  passage,  six  feet  high,  about  the  same  breadth,  and  three  miles  in 
length,  which  enters  East  Kenton  colliery.  The  passage  is  in  general  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  where 
there^is  not  rock  it  is  axdied  over  with  brick  or  stone*     Some  years  ago  part  of  the  roof  fell  in,  but  the 


1 


88  GENERAL  DE6CRIPn0N  OF 

admit  it  At  a^smatt  diafge^  a  partnl  lerel  to  iinek  aiS  tht  wator  a  fevr  f athmoft  bcltMr 
ibe  BWefaee  msLy  he  fo\md  exttemdy-^xm  . 

In  sinking  a  pit  the  greatest  iameaitikB  io  be  enoaontfired  aiw  from  qiiirtMniii 
and  Uurge  feeders  <yf  water.  The  quidaMds  lie  at  Turious  depths  finmi  the  suiface, 
aa  law  m  80  ftithoms  and  upwards  ;  but  the  iargmt  feeders  ci  wmter  are  addom  aM 
with  at  A  fflMter  depth  than  50  ihtiioins.  The  qufchaands  vary  modi  in  tfaiclaibns, 
as  the  feeders  of  water  do  in  quantity ;  but  a  leeder  whidi  diadiar^ed  nearty  ifiOO 
ffallohB  per  minute  has  been  met  widi  in  one  diaft  As  it  would  be  unpractifiBUe  to 
draw  such  a  quantity  of  water  from  the  bottom  of  tlKiae  deep  miiies  but  at  anexpeaee 
which  could  not  be  afibrded,  they  ate  idways  stopped  bade  oy  viiiat  ia  called  taibfaing 
and  wed^g,  which  is  done  by  ftidng  water-tight  cyliiiders  of  wood  or  oast  ixtm 
within  the  circumference  of  the  shaft,  «o  m  oonpletefy  to  dam  hack  the  water,  and 
prev^mt  ita  falling  to  the  bottom  of  tiie  pit.  Ift  aoane  Mses,  water  has  faeaa  dainmed 
rack  in  tUs  manner  to  die  height  of  90  fathoms,  and  at  the  expenee  mi  £lfiO  per 
fathom,  or  upwards,  Quicksands  are  adao  passed  thronrii  and  daasaaad  htK^  by  iubs 
or  eylindimi  of  wood  or  cast  iron,  which  are  genendly  lowemd  down  by  ropes  ^aam 
^  top  (^  ^e  pit,  «mtil  they  pass  through  the  aand,  anid  rest  on  tiia  aolkl  stana  fasiow« 

As  the  sinkimg  of  pits  under  the  alioi^dbeaiagtasieaitia  attended  witfi  gDant^iepaiiee 
and  difficulty,  no  more  are  sunk  than  what  may  be  barely  necessary  to  won:  the 
destined  part  of  coal  below,  and  in  some  cases  a  whole  colliery  is  wrought  by  one  pit. 
In  such  cases  the  pit  is  from  9  to  14  feet  dkwpfltor,  and  divided  into  two,  three,  and 
four  separate  shafts  by  brattice,  or  j>artitions  of  deal  boards,  according  to  the  circum- 
stances  and  extent  of  the  mine.  CoSienea  an  wraaght  to  a  gpcat  a^qtant  1^  pats  of 
this  description ;  the  worikings  are  somefannes  canried  te  the  distance  ;af  iwe  4Hlea 
fh>m  the  lK>ttom,  and  tihe  iengdi  of  the  air  course  iias  eKeeeded  tiarty  mfles*  Meat 
of  these  lai^  double  pits  havepowerfed  steam  en^nea  tmii  liiem*  for  pumping  watsar ; 
t^ey  are  generally  or  Mr.  Watf  s  eonstruotion^«4doi|Ue  'pow£r«^*.and  •usually  eiieaad 
MO  iKMves'  power,  besides  4me  «or  two  maaeof  the  sanie>oan^taruction'£ar  daarwing  eoak, 
off  ft»m  S»  to  «0  hoiaes' power,  i 

As  the  principal  feeders  of  witter  lie  near  Ae  auafeoe,  rthe  paniping. engine  as  ^ane« 
rdlr  erected  w^ben  the  sfaiking  cemnmiees.  The  prtunps,  wifieh  4ure  now  invarud>ly 
made  of  east  iron,  ere  sfa^nded  by  rapes,  and  lewcaed  4eani  fby  capstans,  as  the 
sinking  proceeds. 

'  When  D90re  than  ^one  pit  aae  sank  the  engine  diaft  as  liaudly  feom  seven  ia  nkie 
feet  wide,  and  whether  it  be  circular,  oval,  or  of  any  other  form  is  not  very  material, 
provided  it  *be  strffidenfly  strong,  though  a  'ciretflar  ^Sorm  is  most  ^eneraHv  approved* 
TTie  situation  of  "tiie  working  thaft  should  be  a  little  to  ^Sie'rise^of  tlie  engme  pit,  tfcat 
tlie  water  Which  cdHedts  there  may  not  cfbi$truct  the  woridng  of  Uie  coale  every  tteie 
the  engine  atops ;  it  should  not  exceed  the  distance  of  thir^  or  'forty  yards,  tieeatiae 
when  the  drift  tetween  is  to  be  driven  a  long  way,  %  becomes  both  dSfficwflt  iin^ 
expensive. 

tumiftl  18  stQlikyt  open,  «3  it  is  found ^ztrepielj  convenient  for  conveying  the  water  from  the  pit  to  t!^^.riy«^ 
Tjne«  fund  injBigip)7ii^the  vorlmen  with  pure  air.  Those  wbo  visit  this  colliery  at  present  Qiy^t  fle^cend 
^th«  shaft. 


NORTHUMBEBI^AND.  80 

The  lettto  A  and  B  represent  the  shafts,  or  pen>eiidicular  entrances  into  the  min^ 
and  which  are  generall^r  about  eight  feet  and  a  naST  in  diameter.  A  is  the  working 
shaft,  by  whidi  the  workmen  descend  and  the 
coals  are  brought  up ;  it  is  also  called  the  down- 
eatt  shaft,  because  the  ur  descends  down  it.  Hav- 
ii^;  descended,  it  passes  through  all  the  excava- 
tions that  have  been  made  through  the  mine  in 
the  direction  of  the  dotted  lines,  and  ascends 
thiQUgh  the  wp^iut  shaft  at  .B.  To  accelerate 
the  motion  of  the  tar,  a  furnace  is  kept  burning 
Upon  it,  from  which  it  is  scHuetimes  called  the 
Ak^iirnace  shaft*.  When  the  mine  is  wrought 
by  <nie  shaft,  it  is  divided  from  top  to  bottom  1^ 
a  Doarded  partition,  nicefy  joined,  so  as  to  prevent 
the  communication  of  air  from  one  side  of  the  pit  to  the  other.  The  air  descends 
-throng  one-division  and  ascends  by  another. 

The  dark  ctdoured  parts  of  the  annexed  iplan  represent  the  unwrought  part  of  the 
coal.  The  mine  may  oe  divided  into  any  number  of  districts.  Winning  head-waift 
are  narrow  drifts  about  two  yards  wide,  in  a  nort^  and  south  direction,  and  are  gene, 
rally  the  first  formation  of  the  workings.  Boarda  are  the  chief  excavationa,  or  work- 
ings  of  a  coal  mine.  They  are  about  four  yards  wide,  and  eight  yards  asundn,  and 
run  east  and  west,  at  right  angles  with  the  head- ways.  Pillars  are  theparallelogranu 
or  long  squares'  of  coal  left  to  support  the  nx>f.  When  the  roof  falls,  by  their  being 
left  too  weak,  it  is  called  a  Tknut;  and  when  by  their  narrowness  they  sink  into  a 
tender  floor,  it  is  called  a  Creep.  If  the  roof  and  pavonent  are  both  strong  as  wett 
as  the  coal,  and  the  pit  about  80  fathoms  de^,  thezi  two-thirds  or  three'fourths  may  be 
taken  away  at  the  first  working,  and  one-thiid  or  one-foiirth  left  in  pillars.  If  tender 
it  will  require  a  lar^r  proportion  to  be  left  in  pillars,  probably  one-CHird,  or  newlv 
one-half,  fVaUs  are  openings  <  for  the  purpose  of  voitilation,  made  between  each 
board.  They  are  two  yards  wide,  ana  frbm  twenty  to  twenty-six  yards  distant. 
Stgniuigg  are  opeoings  between  two  paraUd  head-ways,  for  the  satne  use  a*  wi^, 

.  *  F«nQ9rlT  tlw  air  of  corf  mioM  ww  accrfvated  b;  pladng^k  gtau  of  burning  ootU  attxibe  b^Mav  pf 
A»  iQiTfMt  (baft:  UiMegntea  «r«loc«Uy  c«U«4  Iwupi,  aiwl  are  qted  at  |uwaoQtfiM  giving lighC to  tbtlMnb«> 
jffta  by  njgbv  *i><l  for  diyii^  tha  corvaa  at,  in  wet  weather.  But  at  prMcnt  the  air  "  ia  j»ut  in  motion  b; 
maana  of  a  Ufga  fumacs  near  the  edge  of  one  of  the  shafts,  inclowd  in  a  covered  builc^ng  «hkh  sumnuids 
the  whole  mouth  of  the  afaaf^  and  pravided  with  a  larg^  chinmey  timilar  in  appearance  to  «  glass-house. 
The  heated  air,  thus  ascending  through  the  chinmey,  ia  auoceeded  by  cdd  air  ftom  the  ahoft,  ^hifh  in  its 
turn  is  succeeded  by  air  from  tl|e  loweatpart.of  the  mine.  The  whole  ia  thus  miccessiTeiy  rfmoyed,  and  l:b 
place  supplied  by  air  which  finds  ita  way  ftqta  above,  througl)  anoth»  conunnnicating  sha^  open  to  the  day, 
The  certainty  of  this  operatioa  has  evidently  no  dqsendence  on  the  depth  of  the  mine,  ita  extent,  or  its  tanoL 
The  brisk  curr«nt  thus  produced  below  naturally  takes  the  moat  direct  couna  betwixt  Qie  two  shafts. '  The 
ventilation  on  each  side  is  therefore  accomplished  by  meani  c£  another  contrivanc*.  A  continned  comtnuni-. 
'cation  la  formed  betwixt  die  two  ahafU  in  any  required  direction,  by  opening  the  pnqier  avenues  and  cloring 
■U  others.    A  continued  corrent  ia  sometiinea  made  to  paaa  in  thii  naiii(er  lor  tweln or  etgfateen  mflea."-*- 

vot.  I.  Z  ^ 


90  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 


Jenbinii^x^hanwr  paatimB  mode  Hiraugfa  Cbe  -middle  of  ike  pillite»  tx  ihs  ^ur- 
pos^  of  getting  tiie.CQid  left  at  the  ^t  Trorkihg;  jdiUx  thej  ave  uffiA^  ibis.  wdi1&. 
uiigs  genisrally  eitfaer  creep  or  thrust  together*    thmi^tmUmm  qiBiiyiie  ^ 

in  ektenisive  Workixigs^  for  the  pdipose  of  shbrtening  the  way  to  eHy  ^ 
of  die  landne.    Dr^  are  naitoow^  oUkmg  excavations,  tnadd  for  the  pur^m  oF< 
ing  water  from  the  Workings^  for  taking  the  air  ftt>m  One  shaft  to  anotheir^  fSdi 
disooveries  bci^ond  dikes  and  troubles,  aiad  fof  simflar  pul^ofies.    $f€^[)hij^i^ 
iented  Ujr  the  bladk  lines  in  the  walls  atid  stentings,  are  partitions  of  fatick  iaid 
ikiade  to  procure  ^  fegokor  ventilatton  throuflti  all  the  noaHes  or  old  workiiuns  o 
mine*    Praine^dams  vte  made  of  beams  ci  square  fir  timber^  about  thne  cost 
kid  length-ways,  dbsely  joined  and  fumly  wedged  together.    They  are  us^  tpt 
linng  water;  and  in  mines  frequenUy  raise  it  to  a  ^eat  height    JSrMicet  m^ 
tibns  "di  wood  used  in  ventilatiBg  ihe  boards  'in  Whi^  the  hewa^  are  al  woflt.  > , 
or  breakings  down  of  the  roof  of  a  pit,  firequeiltly  kill  the  woi^km^.    When 
occur  in  the  wastes,  they  obstruct  the  regular  current  of  atmospheric  air. 

The  mode  of  working  coal  has  been  miich  improved  within  the  last  few  years. 
From  seven«^}ghths  to  nine-tenths  of  tiie  coal  is  at  present  raised^  whilst  fonaaarly  but 
tme-haif,  and  freqtiendy  less,  was  all  that  could  be  obtained.  This  has  incressed  the 
value  of.  the  property  of  ooal-owners  perhaps  neaiiy  oxie«*third,  frcm  the  gnater  pro- 
"pkxtionx^f  coal  now  raised  out  of  the  same  area,  tiiaa  could  be  effected  %  the  old 
&ysteni«  •  .  : ; 

TheibUowing  is  a  brief  enumeiatidii  of  the  ^mplogricnents^  ahda  ffew  AedHsical  terms 
ipecaliar  i6  edaUininersr — ^The  Viewer  is  the  person  who  ^res  directioas  as.  to  the 
ondthod  of  workmg  and  ventilating  ihe  mine ;  in  large  oblherieiB  he '  has  a  pesson  un- 
lAer  lHin;.tsalkd  the  Vndef-viaoer. ;  From  the  viewers,  the  averoben  receive  their  hi- 
ittnKJkicnk  {hemUin,  is  one  who  inspects  the  state  of  the.miki3e  eyery  teMming)  befoie 
the  m^l  go  to!  Iwprk ;  he  also  Iceepsta  Aafly  -aeooitnt  of  the  men's  labimr.  Keeker^  an 
ihspector  olf  ihe  hewerti,  wallers,  *^  \  Wasiemehiypersons Ihat  daily  eKannnie  the  state 
hf  the:  workxrigsj  and  see  that  they  be  ^prqpeiiy  V^entilated.  ;  IfeuferSy  persons  Ihait  hew 
Or  (iat  'th^'coal  from  its/natural,  sitHOt&on :  a  bAock  of  ooal  that  has  beea  nick^  and  kie- 
vedithey^alla^/W;  to  ilort?^, means to'undeoanine;  toftMsfcjtociittibecotdcm^i^sicte 
of  the  board  or  head  way.  The  jud  is  forced  from  the  roof  by  wedges  and  a  mallet. 
'PtitUfrs  wtid'iSu/*hHvnife9^  are  those  who  431  the  coarVes  and  leetA  Uiem  horn  the  faek^rs, 
oii'<bttr.WllM^'c^l*ig^<«klled  T^«yw?/*; to it%e ^9«ne.ofr 'ihtfft.  The 'barte^mfitfn  »idte 
*dfor^;'dlid^tfi*  butter  ptitts  or  thrusts  bMhliftd.  In  high  seams, .  horses  ai^e  tisied*  inw 
steaaWtrifett.     Vmhew^n  are  stotrt  lads 'iettiployed  hi  taisingthe^dOrves  of  «w*s  byl*lfe 

^o'wer  of 'a  eyan^,  fi'om  the  trams,  'upon  a  hlghfer  carriage,  cafled  a  iRb%  or  fP^trggon. 
1mm' sct^  boys  ^jlldyed  to  dttve  the  horses,  that  dratv  ttfe  sledges,  n^Bes,  sfind 
iv'a^goris,  trorft  the  crane  to  the  shaft  Trappets  'aj^e  ^ys  6f  the  youngest  class,  eih'- 
Ibyed/tb  open  and  shut  the  doors,  which  keep  tlieventOation  in  the  );v^rkin^s  riegu- 
ijr.  t^vftets  are  men  who  r^air  the  horse-ways  and  other  passages  .in  the  mme,  and 
feeejp  them  free /from  obstructions.  Ohsettera  are  those  who  hook  the  laden  and  .un- 
hook: tte  empty  cpryes  at  the. bottom  of  the  shaft;  and  the  JBanksmen^  at  the  bank, 
or  toup  of  the  pit,  unhook  and  empty  the  laden  corves  into  carts  or  waggons,  from  a 
iframe  or  stage.  Brakemen  are  employed  to  work  the  steam  engine,  or  o^li^r  .^machi- 
nery used  in  raising  the  coal  from  the  mine.     Gin^fivers  are  boys  employee^  tq  drive 


t  K  / 


HBHBHEBXJUTZt  .  >  «i 


C^nM^  make  tlie  corrbsi  a  tf6t1>'Qf{iitrahjfe'oaet^>b«^  ib  widi  the  «Hds  .are  om* 
>^eyed  froiin  tb^  li^eri^ib  lii/tfiUiida^WtJrM^fl^  b69^  tfrnfik^ed  to  fiak  out  ^laiite^ 
pyrites,  and  other  foul  admixtureii  .ftona'^he  ooaL  ;  iSNir^Mi^rf  take  the  lixiaU  Q0i]l£roia' 
b^^»f^  flstsrew  oiiroii^  bvw'^wfai^  Boabi  aa  U)i$]^'eoiHLe  Irom  the  heweN^are 
piMired  ifttd  tl^  tragg6iMi  or!aatt8wr>. '(' ; 

Ptr&^dampi  or  Irj^ogibn  dHP^hirAnraOi  ihoile  <tr  leiA  ib  all  owl  miiies^  and  19  tile  itKMt 
tcfi^Utf  and  d^fi«»tiic|ive^iiairitff  ^^^^  miiite  haa  to  oentend    Thia  h^flaln* 

ioabte  ^  is  stipponedf  tb  be  prachtcsd:  hy  tbe  dedompoaitiMM  df  eoal  liy  water^  and  ii 
particular  from  the  waste  ooal  in  fdd  i^oi^dngri^.  It  certaiiil}r  is  aeeuBonilated  in  eld 
1^  and  ^xdavattoti^  in  knmisBs^  ouakttities/  Thia  is  AOt  alwa^rs,  however,  ito  origin. 
Much  of  it  is  «K»Gharg0d,  car  ^  hba  out/'  in  the  mmers  call  it,  from  tlaie  sc^d  eofd  aa  it 
is  worked.  It  often  too,  nishbd  ivrikh  creat  tekxafty  ftttn  rentis  apd  Assures^  in  the  in^ 
cilmbent  strata;  01*  fmm.'fmcmim'mmm  the'ibaso  c^edel  in  wkieli  it  ie  pent\ipy  afK- 
par^nliy  in  a  state  of  ebpitxnBssibnil  i  These*  aurre!M»  of  fiie^dsunp  imn  with  a  hi^^e^ 
noise,  sbiA ai^ ^dled BbnJ^^s.  ' Wfkarethe faf^JMUHiiable gasiB.Vmr previilent, the nume^ft 
formerly  worked,  in  driving  their  adits  for  vdntilation,  by  the  light  of  a  flint-mill, 
or  ifi  spai^k$  prodiiced  Bomewhat  in  tiie  vcitaiWt  of  %  i^flisor-^grinder's  wheel.  When 
tibi^  terrible  element  has  been  suffered  to  aebuolulato/ahd  19  moautiously  ignited  by 
atry  person  that  visits  the  inflammable  refiository,  i^fTeDts  of  a  volcanie  nature  are  pvoi. 
duced.  ^'  The  subtertaneoualightmng  scorches  and  man|^  the  wt^kiAen  exposed 
toitsfiiry;  swteepsdown  its  Ibiig  ^uteries  in  €»ie  isomnMu  torrent  of  destruction, 
fimbs  of  men  and  horses,  doors,  brattites,r  wbrktn^'s  tools,  and  eoal  dust,  all  which  it 
ejects  through  the  shafts,  aceompaaied  With  thiek  Volumes  of  smoke  and  fire.  Th^ 
Doise  of  the  explosion  ifeseinUes  that  of  a  distant  park  of  artillery,  and  the  echo  it 
produces  is  like  the  reverbe^ion&  of  thioAdi^r  iU'the  high^  fegiom^  of  the  air.  Work- 
in^;  wbb  \IM^  eseaqpid  tfte'fury  of  tiiese  Uasti^  deseribe  tiiem  as  instantaneouidy  pre- 
ened iHth  a  €^ong,  siiddeh  wind,  and  aa  dflSicting  the  head  with  pains  as  if  it  were 
]^iei^ed  wltli  arrows^  and,  even  ineUea  wJkere  f he  peraoa  suatains  little  injury  firem 

*  ItM*daaip,  aoeitdhDi^t^  l|ie  gftiftaUy*  #«^vecl  <^u»i,  ii  prmcifally  generated  bj  the  contact  of  pyrita^ 
iridic  wabsr.'  •  Bat-Dcw  Th^niMh  sayt ,  be  bad  fepeatedly  analoed  fire-damp,  and'  always  found  it  to  consist  of 
pBrooBrbluq0tQ44i^teig?n8i^.witkwfc^)!;^^^  hydroiptn  gas.    New  it  remains  to  b« 

9liefVK9ffaf^i4ari(jviptep,(«.  can  contribute  te  the  foixpatlon  of  earbureted 

Wckeg^  0i  Mi^pouiiA'O^carbpn  and  hydrpgen^.V  the  writer  is  dso  deeidedly  of  opinion,  thai  Sre-damp 
oldy.  fi0liioMdate9  in  deep  nuneci,  #niL  is  fowed  rery  slowly,  and  that  it  nevto  would  become  dangeudus  if  a 
pn^)er  mode  of  ventilation  were  adopted.  He  affirms  that  the  present  system  o^  ventilation  is  sd  bad,  that  ll 
diMi;  not  adsait  of  remedy  in  dd  collieries,  but  contends  that  this  is  no  reason  why  new  collieries  should  pot 
W  eoDstnietadai  pauH»  scientiiiQ  principksu .  (Annals  of  Philqsbphy,  vol.  iii.  page  434,  and  vot.  iv.  page  41i2.) 
Pn  thAtOfher  hand„  Mr*  Buddie  states  |haftnp,  great  improvement  in  ventilation  can  be  expected !  (Report 
\^  tjbe  Speiety  for  preventing  Acdd^ts  in  Coal  Mi^es*)  ^s  i^  is  impossible  to  prevent  the  evolution  of  filre- 
itaa^%  and  absuxil  to. attempt-to  destroy  it  when  formed,  every  contrivance  calculated  to  facilitate  its  escape^ 
neri^fM atte&lQon  and  rewards.  Mr.  Byan,  \As^  had  invented^ new  system,  of  ventilation,  for  ^hich  he  re. 
■  the  gold,  medal  and  lOO  guinea^  frop^tbp  Sodety  6f  Arts,  visited  Newcastle  in  August,  1$15.    But 


tktfqg^  supported  by  niany.  scien)tific  gentlemeUi^he  could  not  obtain,  leave  to  try  his  plan  in  any  of  the 
Northumberland  or  Durham  coalmid^,  ,  ^'  ' '         ^  .      • 


.»>   '     .':i    1  iii  :,.♦ ..     •»  M 


0S  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

the  fire,  as  eauring  in  the  hands,  faee^^oid  other  bore  par^  of  the  body,  a  hot,  sooi^* 
ing  pain.  They,  who  have  presence  t)f  nimd  to  Ihrovt  thnnselyes  flat  on  their  faces, 
are  seldom  injured,  especially  where  there  is  Water  ;  but,  if  they  be  left  in  a  vacuum, 
or  where  choak-damp  prevails,  they  soon  suffocate." 

Sometimes  the  first  dreadful  tdast  of  inflammable  air  is  followed  by  successive  ex- 
plosions. The  passages  are  nearly  filled  with  choaludamp,  and  the  sparks  from  a  flint- 
mill  fall  into  the  noxious  fluid  uke  dark  drops  of  blood*  Sometimes  also  the  mine 
takes  fire  from  the  subterraneous  lightning,  and  is  fiBed  witha  heavy  suffocating  vapour. 
In  such  cases  mudi  skill,  labour,  and  couraee,  are  requisite,  in  order  to  extinguish 
the  fire,  and  to  restore  the  free  circulation  of  atmospheric  air. 

Choak-dat^,  or  carbonic  acid  gas,  is  a  kindred  evil  with  fire*damp.  It  is  heavier 
than  atmospheric  air,  and  like  water,  forbids  animal  respiration,  and  extinguishes 
lights.  Its  gravity  makes  it  difficult  to  be  exhausted  by  ventilation ;  but  it  may  be 
easily  discovered,  and  is  less  inflammable  than  hydrogen  gas.  Where  it  does  not  ex- 
clusively prevail,  its  suffocating  quality  is  avoided  by  keeping  the  head  above  its  leveL 
Some  im^ne  that  choak-damp  is  generated  in  coal  mines  by  the  putrefaction  of  ve« 
getable  substances. 

In  the  coal  mines  of  the  Tyne  and  Wear,  six  hundred  men  and  boys  were  destroy ed 
by  the  explosions  of  inflammable  air,  in  the  years  1812  and  1813.  The  frequency 
and  extent  of  these  dreadful  calamities  excited  the  sympathy  of  several  enlightened 
and  benevolent  individuals,  and  an  association,  under  the  designation  of  **  A  Society 
for  preventing  Accidents  in  Coal  Mines,"  was  formed  in  Sunderland  in  the  latter  part 
of  trie  year  1818.  This  excellent  institution  offered  premiums  for  the  discovery  of 
new  methods  of  lighting  and  ventilating  coal  mines ;  but,  it  is  painful  to  add,  that 
the  design  did  not  receive  that  active  and  zealous  support  from  practical  members 
which  the  public  had  anticipated*.  Dr.  William  Reid  Clanny,  of  Bishopwearmouth, 
{Hresented  to  the  society  a  lamp  constructed  on  the  princi^e  of  insulating  the  light 
so  as  to  secure  safety  in  an  atmosphere  of  fire-damp ;  and  JDr.Gray,  of  the  sameplace> 
having  solicited  the  attention  of  Sir  Humphrey  S^vy  to  this  important  subject,  that 
eminent  chemist  visited  our  coal  mines  in  August,  1815,  and  on  his  return  to  Lion- 
don  produced  two  lamps,  in  which  the  burners  were  insulated  from  the  external  air. 
He  afterwards  found  the  security  of  wire-gauze,  which  proves  impervious  to  flame,  and 
thou^  surrounded  by  inflammable  air,  prevents  the  communication  of  any  inflamma- 
tion with  the  burners.  Mr  Stephenson,  an  engineer  in  the  Killingworth  Main  cdliery, 
was  at  the  same  time  employed  in  a  series  of  experiments  on  carbureted  hydrogai 
gas,  whidi  he  discovered  would  not  explode  through  small  apertures.    Having  foimd, 

*  WOlhin  Thonutf,  Esq.  whose  genius  and  philanthropy  are  well  known,  proposed  to  estdbliah  a  sodeCjr 
in  New^cas^,  ]by  whom  all  the  facts  respecting  the  collieries  on  the  Tjne  and  Wear  should  be  collected  and 
fegistered.  A  complete  knowledge  of  all  the  under-ground  workings  being  thus  acquired,  the  great  risk  and 
difficulty  of  sinking  npw  pits  would  be  avoided.  Williara  Chapm'ai^  Esq.  followed  up  this  suggestion  In  an 
itmay,  urging  the  necessity  of  adopting  legislative  measures  tp  diminish  the  probability  of  tiie  recurrence  of 
latal  accidents  in  cdlieries.  The  jealousy  of  the  proprietors  of  coal  mines,  and  the  aversion  shewn  by  the 
generality  of  coal- viewers  to  all  publicity  and  changes  in  the  mode  of  conducting  collieries,  seem  to  render 
legislative  interference  necessary,  These  important  papers  were  read  at.  a  meeting  of  the  Lit^ary  and  PbU 
losophlca)  Society  of  N^w(:astle,  and  published  in  ISl^^  by  order  of  th^  society. 


(previowdjf  to  the  discaverf  ©#  the  wire-gaoze  safety  lamp  by  &k  H.  Davy^,  that  a 
iBvnp  eoBstructed  0ft  this  principle  eould  be  earned  in  safety  where  a  strong  Mower  of 
intbrnwaible  air  was  issumg,  he  ekdmed  the  honorar  of  the  invention*.  Much  still  re- 
mains to  be  done  before  t1^  method  of  Mghting  asid  ventilating  of  mines  ean  be  pro- 
nounced unimproveable.  What  has  been  already  effected  affords  the  most  flattering 
e«ieo«ragemen$  to  perseverance  in  this*  laudable  pursuit 

• 

*  The  diffiretit  clakiMr  to  tile  homiv  of  having  ikuo^veted  the  safety  hmp  excite«l  ttudi  angiy  find  some 
in^pBDSfiue  eantroveKy.  The  Mioyntig  i«  a  bnef  and  aiuiple  narratave  of  ISiets  on  tfiia  subject  In  December, 
1S13>  Dr.  CUnny  received  the  thaoks  of  the-  Aoai^  to  pttv^tmg  Accidents  in  Coal  Mines,  fbr  his  ingcni* 
ous  invention  of  a  safe  lamp.  Itr  censtmetien  was  ne«r.  The  li^t  was  impriaoBed  in  a  sttong  gkss  jar, 
i^to  which  the  atoospheric  air  neeeaaary  fhr  cftanbostion',  y»as  propi^cd  fay  a  pair  of  beUowa,.  tlttoagfa  a 
stralnxn  of -wator.  For  ftirtber  aeeurHy,  another  atnfcom  m»  phcEld  aboTef  the  i^t,  and  aocb  was  tfa» 
aiiilngetnent,  tbat'the'SaiBebkstof  thebettowawhidilbretfdtheextert^  or  laibp^  eiqpelled, 

simultaneottslyi  an  equal  quantity  of  ait  within  thtf  lanp,  thmu|fh  the  upper  8ti;istum  or  eolunm  of  i^ater.  In 
November,  1815,  this  ingenious  gentleman  discovered  thai  enefparf  in' volunie  of  steam,  and  two  of  the  most- 
explosive  mixtures,  destroyed  their  inflammability.  This  was  the  origin  of  his  steam,  safety  lamp,  in  which 
the  water  at  the  top  is  kept  boiling  by  the  ffatDie  of  the  lamp;  the  air  being  supplied  through  a  tube  to  the 
upper  part  of  the  cistern,  descends  mixed  witii  tile  steam  down  two  other  tubes  into  the  body  of  the  lamp. 
For  this  brilliant  invention  Dr.  Clanny  recei¥ed  the  gold  medal  awarded  by  the  Society  of  Arts. 

Mr.  G.  Stephenson,  conceiving  that  by  admitfhigf  hydfOgen  inti>  a  lamp  in  small  detached  portions,  it  would 
be  consumed  by  combustion,  tried  an  experiment  on  Oct.  21,  1815,  with  a  lamp  having  one  tube,  and  a  slide 
at^e  bottom  to  regulate  the  quantity  of  air  aKhnitted^  '  Being  found  not  to  bom  well,  be  immediately  ordered 
another  with*  three  capillary  tubes,  to  admit  the  air,  which  was  tried  on  the  4th  of  November  following,  an4 
found  to  bum  extremely  well.  Qn  the  80th  of  the  same  month,  he  tried  another  lamp,  in  which  the  air  was 
admitted  by  means  of  a  double  row  of  small  perforations. 

Sir  H.  Davy  left  the  north  of  England  on  the  29th  Sept.  1615,  and  on  the  19th  of  October  he  announced 
to  the  Chemical  Club  of  London,  the  discovery  that  explosive  mixtures  wQuld  not  pasfr  through  small  aper-t 
tures  or  tubes.  On  the  80th  October  he  described  a  lamp  made  on  this  principle.  This  lamp  was  secured 
by  perforated  metallic  tubes.  He  afterwards  produced  a  lamp,  into  which  ibe  air  was  admitted  through 
close  concentric  metallic  cylinders;  and,  finally,  a  lamp  inclosed  with  'Wire*gauze.  This  lamp,  in  its  vfH'^ 
proved  form,  consists^  of  a  double  cylinder  of  brass  wire->gauae  about  six  inches  long  and  two  inches  diameterj^ 
which  is  covered  at  the  top  by  Mo  layers  of  wire  at  about  half  an  inch  asunder,  and  which  is  fastened  at  the 
bottom  to  a  brass  riilg  tliat  screws  on  the  body  of  the  lamp  containing  the  wick  and  oil*  The  aperturea^  ii^ 
the  wire«gau9e.  being  ejfitem^lj  smid],  the  flame  cannot  escape  so  as-to  oome  into  contaet  wi^  the  sun^ounding 
ndxture. 

From  the  preceding -statement^  it  dearly  appears,  that  the  idea  of  using  wire-^u«e  instead  of  capilliaiy 
tubes  originated  with  -Sir  Humphrey  Davy ;  but  the  principle  of  hia  lamp  does  not  difler  £:om  that  adopted 
by  Mr.  Stephenson,  wire-gauase  being  similar  to  the  orifices  of  capillary  tidies.  The  probability,  that  the 
same  idea  might  have  occurred  to  two  individuals,  engaged  in  similar  experiments,  about  the  same  time, 
might  easily  have  been  admitted.  But  the  titled  philosopher- was  loaded  with  the  most  fulsome  flattery^  and 
the  most  ridiculous  experiments  were  announced  in  proof  of  his  lamp  being  unaffected  by,  violence  /  *^  Mr^ 
Buddie,"  observes  an  acute  and  &cetious  writer  (IMfr.  Longmire)  ^^  was  one  in  an  underground  par^  at  play 
with  the  wu^ganxe  lamp/  and  the  object  of  the  game  was  not  to  oi^re  the  lamp  l^  dwowing  stones  and  coal 
upon  it,  and  by  striking  it  with  picks."  The  gentlemen  of  the  coal  trade,  at  their  meetingf^  alao  reOned  ta 
examine  th^  fJaimaof  Mr.  Stephenson^  and  havinur  voted  him  100  guineas,  presented  Sir  Humphrey  Dav;ir 
with  a  service  of  plat^  valued  4t  (80Q  guineas.    These  drcumatancea  induced,  many  ta.dfaw.aicfl^sliisifi^ 


94  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

A  stranger  desirous  of  visitiiig  a  coal-pit  must  obtain  leave  of  a  viewer,  or  isome 
other  person  concerned  in  the  colliery.  Having  obtained  a  change  of  dress,  strong 
boots  to  keep  the  feet  dry,  and  an  okl  hat,  he  must  proceed  to  the  shaft,  where  put- 
ting his  leg  mto  a  loop,  he  is  for  a  few  moments  suspended  over  the  mouth  of  the 
pit,  and  then  let  down  with  amazing  rapidity. 

The  riotous  scenes  constantly  exhibited  at  the  crane  of  a  large  colliery  are  calcu- 
lated to  strike  a  stranger  with  surprize  and  horror.  The  place  is  lightea  by  a  lamp 
just  sufficient  to  make  *'  darkness  visible,"  and  to  give  faint  glimpses  of  youths  hur- 
rying backwards  and  forwards  with  the  corves,  while  the  speed  of  the  horses  msike 
the  bustle  still  more  hideous.  The  thousand  tricks  of  a  crowd  of  boys  in  high  health 
and  spirits,  each  anxious  to  commit  some  frolic,  while  his  corf  is  imder  the  crane — 
their  bodies  half  naked,  and  black  with  coal  dust — ^their  laughing,  fighting,  and  loud 
swearing — ^these  joined  to  the  incessant  noise  of  ircm-wheeled  trams,  runnmg  on  iron 
plates,  and  to  the  great  heat  and  offensive  effluvia  of  the  place,  make  it  indeed  a 
^  horrible  dungeon."  Such  in  all  probability  is  often  the  picture,  when  the  subterra- 
neous fire  expK)des,  and  the  mirthnil  throng  are 

**  Overwhelmed 
*^  With  floods  and  whirlwinds  of  tempestuous  fire.^ 

THE  LEAD  DISTRICT. 

The  lead  district  (including  part  of  the  adjoining  counties),  is  bleak,  rugged, 
and  mountainous.  The  different  coal  strata  rise  and  xrop  out  east  of  the  river  Der- 
went ;  and  the  uppermost  strata  of  the  lead  measures  are  supposed  to  basset  from  be- 
neath the  lower  coal  seamsf .    The  lead  sections  are  more  regular  than  those  of  coal, 

unfavourable  to  Sir  H.  Davy's  pretensions,  and  those  gentlemen  who  conceived  that  Mr.  Stephenson  had 
not  been  fairly  treated,  presented  him  with  a  valuable  silver  tankard,  bearing  an  appropriate  inscription, 
and  a  handsome  sum  of  money. 

The  wire-gauze  safety  lamp^  though  of  great  practical  utility,  does  not  give  colliers  that  abtohUe  and  perfect 
security  against  the  destructive  power. of  inflammable  air  that  was  injudidously  attributed  to  it  It  is  certainly 
liable  to  accident,  and  of  course  insecure.  Before  concluding  this  long  note  it  may  be  proper  to  observe^  that 
in  November,  1815,  Dr.  John  Murray,  of  Edinburgh,  described  a  safety  lamp  consisting  of  a  glass  tube 
made  air-tight,  and  fed  through  a  long  flexible  tube  reaching  to  the  floor  of  the  mine.  R.  W.  Brandling,  Esq. 
about  the  same  time  also  constructed  an  ingenious  but  complex  machine  intending  to  meet  the  danger  arising 
both  from  hydrogen  gas  and  carbonic  add  gas.  Mr.  Newman  has  since  proposed  to  add  a  convex  lens  to  the 
lower  part  c^  the  wire-gauze  lamp,  which  would  enable  the  miner  to  direct  a  strong  h'ght  upon  any  particu* 
lar  object  where  it  might  be  required. 

*  See  Description  of  Felling  Colliery,  prefixed  to  the  Funeral  Sermon  of  9^  Persons  killed  by  inflammable 
air  in  that  Colliery,  May  85,  1812,  by  the  Rev.  J.  Hodgson,  p.  37. 

t  Mr  W.  Forster,  in  his  Section  of  the  Strata  extending  from  Newcastle  to  Cross  Fell,  gives  the  local  name 
and  nature  of  each  distinct  stratum,  of  which  he  enumerates  116  in  the  coal  measures,  and  which  reach  to 
the  depth  of  504  yards,  when  the  lead  measures  commence.  These  he  traces  through  S40  different  strata, 
and  to  the  depth  of  1345  yards  below  the  sur&oe. 


NOHTHUMBEHLAl^D. 


95 


and  each  individual  bed  is  anticipated  and  calculated  upcm  widi  considerable  confi- 
dence by  practical  miners. 

From  Healy-field,  and  Blanchland  on  the  Derwent,  the  mines  first  become  of  im- 
portance, and  continue  to  be  so  to  the  very  summit  of  Gross  Fell.  The  mining  field 
is  here  about  twenty-four  miles  in  breadth,  and  its  length  from  the  South  Tyne  to 
the  extremity  of  Derbyshire  may  be  estimated  at  160.  Veins  of  ore,  however,  in  a 
certain  degree,  pervade  the  whole  of  this  formation  in  the  northern  part  of  Northum- 
berland. Thus  a  strong  vein  is  worked  near  Fallowfield.  It  was  drowned,  but  re^ 
covered  about  fifty  years  ago.  Miners  called  this  mine  the  Old  Man^  and  sltways 
mentioned  its  internal  wealth  with  rapture.  A  small  mine  was  lately  carried  on  at 
Thockrington  and  at  Whelpington  in  the  same  neighbourhood  Some  lead  mines 
have  been  opened  at  Satling-Stones,  and  at  Whiteley  Well,  near  Haydon  Bridge* 
An  old  mine  has  also  been  lately  re-opened  at  Litdehoughton.  Strings  of  ore  have 
been  discovered  on  the  coast  of  EUwick,  nearly  o^osite  to  Holy  Island,  and  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  island  itself.  But  the  richest  mining  fields  in  Northumberland  are 
AUenhead  and  Coaldeugh.  The  lead  mine  measures  here  dip  to  the  north-east  about 
one  vard  in  twentv-sevenl 

The  richest  and  noblest  mineral  depositories  is  the  rake  vein,  called  by  naturalists 
the  Perpendicular  Mineral  Figure,  and  is  a  longitudinal  gash  rent,  or  opening  in  the 
rock  or  strata,  which  extafids  from  the  surface  as  far  down  towards  the  centre  as  that 
vein  dips,  ai\d  as  far  forward  in  the  line  of  bearing  as  it  reaches.  Sometimes  the  rake 
vein  stands  nearly  perpendicular,  but  commonly  hangs  with  more  or  less  slope,  which 
slope  is  called  by  miners  the  hade  of  the  vein ;  and  the  rock  on  both  sides  of  the  gash  is' 
<»lled  the  ckeek  of  the  vein.  The  princmal  veins  in  Northumberland  being  nearly  east  • 
and  west,  whilst  the  crass  veins  extend  trom  north  to  souths.  Their  regular  breadth, 
as  well  as  their  depth,  is  subject  to  great  variation ;  for  though  a  vein  may  be  many 

In  the  lead  formation,  according  to  Dr.  Thomson,  there  are  aeven  beds,  or  aills,  of  coal,  nineteen  of  lime* 
stone,  sixty  of  plate  or  date  day,  and  fifty  of  sandstone. 

Mr  Winch  says,  on  crossing  the  mountainous  part  of  the  lead-mine  district^  firom  east  to  west,  the  strata, 
which  dip  to  the  east,  will  be  seen  cropping  out  one  after  the  other,  and  forming  parallel  ridges  firom  the 
south-west  to  the  north-east,  to  the  thickness  of  2717  feet  Some  of  thte  beds  of  this  formation  agree  with 
those  of  the  coal-field,  viz.  coal,  shale,  and  sandstone ;  but  other  rooky  masses  also  attend  the  lead-mine  mea- 
sures, and  serve  to  distinguish  them*  The  sandsUme  and  skale  sills  or  beds  first  rise  ihun  beneath  the  ooaU 
formation.  The  slaie  sill  is  of  a  grey  colour,  and  is  used  as  a  roofing  slate.  .  The  mUUUme  grit  is  one  of  the 
uppermost  strata  on  the  Derwent,  and  is  quarried  for  millstones.  The  grindstone  sill,  a  fine-grained  yellowish 
sandstone,  is  the  uppermc&t  bed  on  Coaldeugh  and  Allenheads.  Haxk,  iuftt  and  a  variety  of  other  sand* 
stones,  prevaiL  They  are  thickest  towards  the  lower  part  of  the  series.  In  the  sections  published  by  Mr 
Winch,  there  are  twenty-one  limestone  beds,  of  which  the  aggregate  thickness  is  about  96  fiithoms.  These 
beds^are  the  most  chanusteristic  of  the  lead-mine  measures.  * 

*  The  most  considerable  cross  veins,  or  dikes,  pursue  a  direction  nearly  north  and  south.     White-heaps 

vein,  in  Derwent,  is  very  much  intermixed  with  spar  and  rider,  and  has  little  throw.     The  Greai  Burtree^ 

ford  dike  is  the  most  remarkable^  cross  vein.     It  has  been  traced  from  the  East  Allen  river,  below  Catton  in 

Northumberland,  to  Lunedale  in  Yorkshire.    It  throws  more  than  eighty  &thoms  to  the  west.    Mines  on 

4ie  east  side  of  this  dike  are  generally  of  a  softer  nature  than  those  on  the  west    The  Whetstone  Mea  cross 


9^  GENERAL  l>eaCRIFXiON  OF 


&tfaom&  in  OM  paitieiiUtr  fJiaoe,j«t «  Uttl^^  fiirtiiM  east  or  west  it  may  not  pevhap&lK* 
one  inch  wide. 

'FheJIai  ov  dilated  neim  Ud  h^imew^  twoi  istrntef  oi  alonei  and  haj^  exaetly  the  same 
declining  position,  ^nd  me  subjeet  tor  tbe  same'  intenruptkins-  m  the  scams  of  oaalsL 
l^hes^  flat,  v^ms  aire^  f Jrequ^ntly  4)scov€^ecl  by  wceking  downwaiidsi  m  the  sake  reina^ 
i^id  wh^n  it  so  h^ppens^  it  is  neckciiied  ai  liteky  aodde^lv  as  they  can  turn  off^  astd 
work  a^fl^  horiiKontidly  wkh  ^e  sauoe  shaft. 

.  S(HaQ€tiiiies  ^tisr  the  minears  hai^  cut  a  drift  through  ai  tvritch,  the  rein  opens  in  a 
hrge  and  wide  hell^  ot^  pune  twtd  solid  ore.  Where  the  veins  intersect  each  oAusat^ 
aiaem  belMeS'  pvove  rwmk&Jhiiy  nch  in  the.  mining  field  at  .ddkndtile ;  and  instances  have 
becik  known  c^  890  lling0  o^  ore  being  raised!  by  six  miners,  ia.  one  of  these  shakss  or 
beUifiSt  inb  tbe  sf  aee  of  nine  weeks.*  And  some  ca;riti0s  hove*  been  found  si  the 
gf^mt  UmeMw^f  (which  j»  tK^  pnedominanit  stratnsm^  foe  produeitt^  lead  bm)\  that  have 
y^ded  up^i^d^; ef  one  thousand  b&ugs ;  mostioflthe  ore  bcing'raiuid  imalAH^ 
i}B0»>  tbe'S<)Ae'of  the  ca^ifiea  which  probably  hiis  fallen  ftoai  uxt  noofi  at  sonie  maaak 
of  time. :  A  yeinw  fifteen  fatfaomfr  in  lengthy  im  tbe^^reot  limestone  at  Cbaklkii|p»  baa 
in  twelve  years  produced  ten  thousand  bings  of  lead  ore. 

But  tibke^  or^  is  not  always  ftmnd  piire  ana  solid,  the  vein  being  freqiuently  separated 
longitndiaftUy:  into  two  <»r  nmre  difviskixis  by.  wfaai^  the  miners  call  a  Bkk^.  A  ridcc 
or  vein  stone^  is  haixl  and  he»iry».  sometim«i»  compact  and  soladv  but;  genecally  crodbnb 
and  cavenioudi'  ridLng  in'  itvegiiJar  and:  misahroen  masses*  It  frequently  eoi&taiffis  a  va« 
liety  of  daiBSsrenft  auhstanees».  as  well,  as  ddoeflrent  colouss^.  in  tbe^  sabae  mass,  such  as 
spar,  quartz,  pyrites ;  and  sometimes'  difFeimit  nrinerals. 

The  most  comiAon  stone  found  in  mineml  reins  is  ^^,  of  which  theve  ore  £oiRr 
diiS^en4l  species^  calted  by  miiurs*  tike  Caktamw».Spar^.jPliMr  SmEr^  Cctuk  Spm\  and 
Qmrte^*^p6i0ri  Ehior  spav.-  oceurs  in  a.sreai  many  dbflfenant  ccuours^  svuh  m  whiter 
green,  violet,  yellow,  rea,  and  brown.  All  the  valuable  mines  in  Allendale  and  Coal- 
deugii  have  the  ealeai;eous  aind  flufir  spar  for  »  matri!ftv  Catik;  or  bofrytio  spar  is*  com- 
monly a  dull  looking  yellowish,  brownishv  or  i«ddish  white;  In  Wellhope  it  lies 
mostly  in  carvities  or  makes  (tf  iMe  vein,  in  round  baOs^  and  when  iHroke'it  is  striated, 
as  di^^ging  fMioi  the  centre.  It  k  so^  very  ponderou'S^  that  it  is  euttremely  d&i!ieuit 
t0' separate- it  from  the  metdMeores;  The  quartz  spar  ii  frequiendy  very  beautifirf, 
and'is  so^fine  and  smooth  as  not- to  exhibit'atiy  viisible  grain  or  texture.  It  is  apt  to 
sfcoot  ihtb  pTisfma1icat*cry*stai§  so  pnrei  and  peBtodd  ias  almost  to  vie  with  the  diamond 
in  lustre^,  ai^  sometimes  so  hard' as  to  cut  glass, 

vein  divides  into,  two  brancbe^^  southweM  of  West  ^ehdftld  BUrn,  THe  east  branch  t*ht^w9  down  to  the 
west  about  twenty.fbur  ikthotns^'  and  tbe  western  branch;  throws  down  to  the  east  about  eighteen  i)ithoms, 
Tfley  eross' and"  intersect  the  mining  field  of-Ctelclengh;  through  which  tiiree  or  ibur  other  veins  pa«s  ih  a^ . 
parcel  direction.  At  the  west  end  of  thb  mining  field  runs  a  tolerably  rich  vein^  called  the  Bounder-end^  The 
next  veins  in  euqcession  to  the  west, are  the  Moss  cross  vein^  and  .Old  Carr's  cross  vein,  (the  strongest  that  is 
f6ilnd  in  Alston  Kbpr),  the  pla^k  Sshgilt  yein,  and  Sir  Johrfs  veUi,  Then  follows  the  Great  Back^one^  ox 
sulphur  vein^  which  contains  pjntie*  bliended  with  copper  ore. 

'  •  A  btng  oi^lead  ote  fe  eight  hnb^Ved'weigljt,    Eight  hundred  bbiga,  at  the  average  price  of  flf;  per  bing^ 
\t  4S00f. 


1  r 


NORl'HUMBERLAND.  9T 

Large  cavities  are  frequently  met  with  in  the  mineral  veins  at  Allenheads  and 
Coalcleafidi.  They  are  senendly  calle^by  minei-s  Shakes^  Lochs^  or  LockJuiles.  It  is  a 
great  cunosity  to  behold  the  inside  of  these  caverns,  where  most  of  the  mineral  spars 
are  found  shot  iflto  a  variety  of  figured  crystals,  which  exhibit;  all  the  variety,  beauty, 
and  splendour  of  the  most  curious  grottQ  work.  A  hard  concreted  stony  crust  com- 
monly adheres  to  the  inside  of  the  cavity,  out  of  which,  a{9  out  of  a  root,  an  innume- 
table  multitude  of  short  prismatical  crystals  are  shot,  which  sparkle  like  a  thousand 
diamonds,  with  t^e  candle,  or  when  exposed  to  the  sui).'  Between  these  clusters  of 
mock  diamonds,  and  sticking  to  them  promiscuously,  there  are  often  ore,  black-jack, 

rites  or  sulphur,  and  spar,  shot  also  into  pri3mfitiQ,  cubic,  and  other  figures* ;  and, 

(ides  tiiese  clusters  of  grotesque  figures,  which  grow  out  of  one  another,  and  are  as 
it  were  piled  upon  one  another,  the  whole  inside  of  the  cavern  is  sometimes  magni* 
ficently  adamed  with  the  most  wildly  grotesque  fibres,  which  branch  out  of  each 
other  m  a  mani^r  not  to  be  described,  and  with  iSi  the  gay  and  splendid  colours  of 
the  rainbow.  It  is  indeed  impossible  to  conceive  the  effect  produced  by  the  masses 
refleeting  all  the  beauty  of  such  an  assemblage  of  gaudy  coloturs. 

These  shakes  cft  caverns  are  the  great  source  of  materials  for  grotto-work ;  and  the 
specimens  collected  from  the  miners  are  generally  the  most  showy  and  dazzling  articles 
in  the  wbrie  arrangement  of  the  splendid  grotto.  But  it  may  be  remarked  that  these 
mineral  caverns  are  never  so  magnificent  and  gk)rious  as  when  there  is  less  or  more  of 
yellow  copper  ore,  or  of  pyrites  or  black-jadk  in  them ;  as  these  ores  are  found  to 
produce,  m  hard  veins,  the  most  beautifid  colours  in  the  wcirld.  When  these  inter- 
.nal  openings  occur  in  the  eoixr6e  of  'the 'artificial  excavations  the  masters  immediatelv 
cause  them  to  be  dosed  up,  in  order  to  prevent  the  men  from  stealing  spar,  as  well 
as  to  hinder  them  from  spending  their  time  otherwise  than  in  getting  ore ;  because, 
were  they  allowed  to  work  for  spar,  which  they  can  sell  at  high  prices^  they  would 
hatamraSy  be  indined  to  lodk  to  their  own  individual  advantage  in  prefepenpe  tq  tb^t 
of  their  employers. 

Soft  veins  also  sometimes  open  into  wide  and  spacious  cavities,  in  whidi  irregular 
masses  of  ore  are  found  bmied  in  the  soil.  The  exploring  of  these  soft  openings  is 
very  expensive,  troublesome,,  and  dangerous,  arid  is  considered  the  most  difficult  part 
of  mining.  !Put  we  must  forbear  to  enlarge,  for  the  phenomena  of  the  inside, of  these 
mineral  veins  are  so  va^rious,  that  it  is  impossible  to  go  through  every  pcnnt  of  de« 
Scriptiorii;  npr  is  ^he  at!tempt  consistent  with  our  plan. 

There  is  anot)ier  method  of  obtaining  the  ore,  which  is  but  seldom  practised ;  it  is 
by  Flooding^  or  J^ushing'^  as  the  miners  plu^e  it ;  in  order  to  aceomplidi  whidi  a 
large  bason  or  reservoir  of  water  is  mad(^  which  hemg  let  out .  by  a  sluice,  in  a  full 
stream,  through  a.  cut  or  opeQ^  from  9,  descent,  with  an  irresistible  impetuosity 
sweeps  away,  on  frequent  re|>etition,  all  the  various  substances  which  compose  tlie 
roof  of  the  piipe,  fr^tone,  ux>nstone;  w;hinstone,  limestone,  spar,  and  talc;  and  at 
length,  in  gentler  currents,  th?  Qxe  itself,  with  gravel,  sand,  and  oth«r  extraneous 
matter, 

*  The  lead  mine  strata  cont^i|i  different  or^  of  lead;  and  a}a9  ores  of  ^qppor^  iff>>>  Wid  mc,  and  tbo 
fi$\t8  of  lime,  and  cif  barytes. 

VOL-  L— (6)  2  B   ' 


I\ 


^9  GENSEAL  SUSCBXPTIOK  OF 

The  principiil  mumig  &^  w  Nx»rihuin)icc)iui4  <<»  btfow<A9enNid^.a0e  Alkidietds, 
yrhic^  It  i^  3MPPo»ed  wece  disoovemd  iMw^ly  tWK)  )|jiDd|i9d  yeara  «^,  tu  tfatjf  haife  be- 
ionge4  to  t!bie  JSlackett  &mUy  &r  upwards  of  14Q  vcurs^    The  iHiJki  wirier  level  wm 

AJSenda^  Town.  Cosldeugbf  two  miles  east  <^Nmt)ia»d,  isalao  a  valuaUe  kafl  name. 
^I^rty  Qeugh  in  Welhope*  K^arslejr  Well,  SwiiUia^  Head*  and  WeUiope  Head»  in 
the  nei^boqrhood  of  Cmbdeugh^  aad  lipton,  four  wiles  north  of  AUenkeada,  ape  all 
lead  Imn^3  in  the  manor -of  Hexham,  and  belonging  to  Colondl  aad  Mrs  Beaiiinoiit 
These  nunea  on  an  average  during  the  last  twmtjy^  9reansi»  ire  estimated  to  have  pro* 
duce4  800  bings  per  annum.  '  ^ 

The  mines  oiled  Jefifries'  Bake,  Old  and  New  Shieldon,  and  White  Heaps,  are  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Blanchland.  Shieldon  was  formerly  in  the  possessimi  oi  the 
London  lyead  Company*  The  works  were  abandoned  for  some  time,  when  ^asterby, 
M^  wd  Company,  made  a  i^furited  but  unsucoessful  efibrt  to  work  the  mines  ad** 
vantageonsjy*^ 

When  it  is  ascertained  that  ores  exist  in  any  narticular  plaoe,  and  ean  be  wciftsed 
to  advantage,  a  dmft  is  suidc  in  the  ground^  or  if  the  aituation  wiH  admit  it»  a  level  or 
adit  is  driven.  Means  ane  also  env^Ioyed  to  remove wateraad d«sln«etive  fluids  from 
the  mine.  Choak-damp  is  very  aommon  in  lead  minep,  but  the  fife-damn  has  not 
.))een  met  with,  e^^cept  m  the  Grand  Aqjuedufit  X4wd»  eaUed  Nmt  i^onwf ,  wImm  it 
hfiSf  onoe  or  twipe  ei^ploded. 

■ 

The  PiiEFAnATSQN  of  Imab  Oee. 

The  pocess  of  smelting  and  reducan^  of  lead  ore  is  very  stmplet  partly  on  aooonnt 
of  the  richness  of  the  ore,  and  partly  on  account  of  the  low  pnee  of  the  metal  itaeU^ 
yrhich  therefore  will  not  admit  of  any  but  the  moat  summary  methods  of  hnBpng  it 
into  a  marketable  state. 

*  Th^  mioior  of  Alston  ppntaihs  sixty^me  mmm^  which  «rt  or  have  been  worked*  Thejr  belong  to  Uie 
€ioaimk»iat}i^rn  S|id  Gove^of^  ot  Greenwidi  HospitiJ.  Tbejr  9^  worked  by  the  London  Load  OxDymyc* 
and  private  y^^entiHrers,  who  pay  one-fifth  of  the  ore  raised  in  them  for  rent.  Including  Cross  FeQ»  fli^ 
mines  yidd  on  an  average  19,000  bings  per  an^um.  There  are  thirty-six  mines  in  Weardale^  belonging  to 
die  Right  Rev.  the  Bishop  of  Durham,  and  principally  occupied  by  Colonel  and  Mrs«  Bef  umont,,  whydi  pro* 
duoo  17>000  bings  yearly. ,  The  thirty-eight  mines  in  Teesdale  are  the  prfl|>erty  of  the  Earl  of  Darlington, 
send  produoe  SOOO  biiigs  yeaily.  The  adjacent  mines  in  Westmorela^idi  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Than^ 
yield  1500  kings  per  annam.  The  wh<de  average  prodc^x  of  tins  grand  mining  Strict  will  thereforf 
imams  to  BSfiOO  bings,  or  ll,Sa9  tons  of  lead  per  annum,  fn  the  year  1820,  it  is  supposed,  6SJS86  ounces 
qf  ^iter  were  made  at  Laagley  Mills,  in  Northumberland,'  which  is  the  property  of  the  Commissioners  and 
GoT^num  of  QreoQwich  Ho^ital. 

t  The  level  of  ^efi<  fV^nse,  from  Old  Hagffs  engine  shaft,  is  a  8ti:gpendous  work.  It  is  nearly  holed 
through  to  a  Uft,  and  exceeds  four  miles  in  length.  There  is  another  level  driving  from  the  above  shai^ 
under  the  scar  limestone.  Strangers  who  are  wishful  to  view  this  wonderful  adit,  may  be  accommodated 
with  boats  and  guides  by  application  at  the  Lowbyer  Inn,  near  Algtcm.  Those  who  have  the  curiosity  of 
taking  a  subterraneous  sail,  must  be  highly  gratified  with  the  singularity  of  the  scene.  When  accoiji^^MUued 
by  a  band  of  music,  the  effect  is  grand  beyond  description^— JPor^er^f  Section,  ftd.  edU,  apjpen.  p.  ii 


The  oare,  wh^  first  Ivrought  vsp  fy0ak  HHiej^miei  is  Atemd  hy  womea  and  bofs,  who 
with  It  faand4iaminer  semnUfe  4fae  beit^  alftdflfi^gettt  parte  of  the  we  from  giich  as  hav^ 
impurities  adhering.  The  residue  is  ^WJcen  Hito  smaUer  pieoei^  and  these  pieces  are 
separated  in  a  sieve,  node  for  the  purpose,  from  the.  stonea  and  the  other  impurities 
wherewith  Ihey  may  be  msxed*  This  separatiwm  is  made  by  water,  by  means  of  whi(^ 
the  me  being  of  die  most  ponderoua  quality,  throwa  off.  the  other  impurities.  Aft^ 
this  second  mode  of  |ptoeeeding»  there  is  sdll  a  eoni^deraUe  ijuantity  of  ore  not  per* 
fectly  sCTiannbed  froni  the  grass  partictes;  to  obtain  whidi  it  is  necessary  to  pound 
dbwn  all  tte  intennisied  qualities,  which  is  generally  dime  by  a  broad  hammtf,  and 
afterwards  separated  in  a  sieve  by  watar  as  before. 

There  has  btely  been  differeat  erections  for  crushing  the  ore,  to  bring  it  into  a  state 
fit  for  tite  sieve,  whidi  saVes  a  great  deal  of  manual  l^xxur,  besides  bssng  mudh  more 
expeditioiis.  These  erections  oenenAy  consist  <^  two  cast-iron  roU«?s»  which  are 
%m>ught  by  a  water-*wheel ;  and  by  means  of  screws  to  move  the  rollers  nearer  to  or 
further  from  each  other,  tile  ore  may  be  brdken  or  crushed  to  any  size  that  may  be 
thought  most  expedient  in  order  to  a  proper  separation.  By  means  of  the  aforesaid 
erushmg,  &c*  a  part  of  the  ere  wiU  get  sb  pulvmsed  as  npt  to  be  of  a  body  to  bear 
an^  stream  of  water  without  waatk^ :  tiiis  is  calkd  jSS&mI^  Ore,  and  to  preserve  which 
it  IS  necessary  to  have  certain  reaervQirs  to  receive  ti«e  same ;  and  by  means  of.  wooden 
boxes  or  trunks  it  is  afterwards  separated  from  any  dajf^  sand,  or  other  light  parti^ 
des,  so  that  there  be  no  waste  of  the  ore  even  wlien  it  is  pounded  down  to  a  consist 
tonce  as  fine  as  flour: 

The  washing  of  lead  ore,  &G.  has  received  |;reat  improvements  during  the  last 
twentv-five  years,  by  the  introdnction  dT  cmshuiff  machines,  stamping  mills,  slime 

E'ts^  doSying,  &a  and  has  enaMed  miners  to  expK)re  pow  mines,  which  coidd  not 
ive  been  wotked  without  these  improvements. 

The  furnace  used  for  smcMing  is  me  common  reverberatery  with  a  low  arch.  A 
ton  or  more  of  the  ore  is  spread  on  the  floor  of  the  furnace,  and  by  means  of  the  flame 
from  pit  eoal  it  is  quickly  brought  to  a  bright  red  heaL  In  this  situation  it  is  occa* 
sionsJly  stirred  with  iron  rakes  to  expose  fresh  surihoes  to  the  acticm  of  the  flame,  and 
facilitate  the  separation  of  the  sulphur.  ..In  a  rfiort  time  the  mass  begins  to  acquire  a 
pasty  consistence;  upon  whidi  the  degree  of  heat  is  lowered,  and  ttie  ore  is  kwt  ata 
dull  red  till  the  sulphur  is  nearlv  all  got  rid  of:  tiie  fire  beii|g  thei  increased,  the  are 
is  brought  to  a  state  of  perfect  fusion,  and  visibly  consists  of  two  fluids ;  the  lower  is 
the  metollic  lead,  the  up]^r  is  a  vitreous  slag,  stiU  holding  a  conaderable  portioB  of 
l^A,  but  mixed  with  various  impurities.  In  tins  state  of  me  process  the  fire  is  damp* 
ed,  and  a  few  spadefuls  of  quick  lime  are  thrown  into  the  flmd  mass :  thus  the  soorue 
are  suddenly  solidified,  and  are  raked  to  the  side  of  the  fbrnaee ;  the  tap-hole  is  then 
opened,  and  the  lead  runs  into  a  cast-iron  pan,  from  which  it  is  ladled  into  metal 
mouUb,  where  it  congeals  into  oblong  masses  called  jPte^,  weighing  fitxn  eight  to 
twelve  stones  each.  The  tap-hole  is  closed  after  the  lead  has  run  out  of  the  furnace, 
and  the  scoriie  undergoes  the  same  jprooess,  but  the  lead  which  it  po#uoes  is  harder 
and  less  malleable  than  that  of  the  first  running.  The  second  scorue  still  holds  fi:om 
five  to  eight  per  cent,  of  lead,  but  it  is  appMed  to  no  purpose  but  that  of  maiding 
roads.  .  •  '  •    ' 


100  GEKEHAL  bESCRBPTION  OP 


But  the  method  of  extracting  the  lead  most  commonly  used  in  this  comity,  is  by 
what  is  caDed  the  ore-hearth,  which  is  formed  by  lavj^  blocks  or  pieces  of  cast  iron« 
A  hearth  is  generally  of  an  oblong  form,  and  about  18  by  84  inches,  the  ends  being 
dose,  and  the  back  part  also,  only  in  the  latter  there  is  a  vacancy  to  receive  the  pipes 
of  a  pair  of  bellows  or  blowing  Cylinders.  On  the  fiont  cf  the  hearth,  and  eight  or 
nine  mches  from  the  bottom,  is  ]dlaced  a  large  piece  of  cast  iron,  which  is  calkd  the 
work-stone ;  it  lies  in  a  sloping  direction  from  the  hearth,  and  has  a  gutter  for  the 
purpose  of  conveying  the  lead  from  the' hearth  into  a  pot  placed  to  receive  it. 

The  fore  -part  of  the  hearth,  above  this  work.«tone,  is  open  about  ten  inches  high, 
above  which  there  is  a  piece  of  cast  iron  six  inches  high,  and  the  breadtib  of  die  hearai ; 
the  top  of  this  is  level  with  the  other  sides.  This  opening  is  necessary  tor  the  work- 
ing of  the  hearth,  which  being  filled  with  ore  and  fuel,  the  Mast  is  set  to  wotk.  The 
ore  is  taken  out  by  means  of  a  large  iron  poker  upon  the  wwk-stone  every  three  or 
four  minutes,  in  order  to  separate  any  impurities,  which  will  always  be  intermixed 
even  with  the  best  washed  ores.  The  pieces  thus  separated  form  into  a  slag  or  scoriae^ 
and  is  easily  known  by  an  experienced  smelter  from  the  good  metal,  then  approach- 
ing to  a  state  of  fusion,  consequent^  are  thrown  aside  to  under^  another  process,  aa 
there  is  always  a  consideraMe  quantity  of  lead  miaoed  with  it  The  inetal  is  iimnedi. 
ately  cast  back  into  the  hearth,  and  a  fresh  quantity  of  fuel  and  ore  laid  thereon. 
This  mode  of  examining  and  separating  the  contents  o^  the  hearth,  tfid  adding  firesh 
fuel  and  metal  thereto,  h  regularly  continued  while  the  hearth  is  at  work,  and  will 
yield,  if  the  ore  is  good,  two  tons  of  lead  in  the  space  of  twelve  hours. 

When  the  lead  contains  a  very  small  mixture  of  silver,  the  pieces  ore  marked  O, 
to  shew  that  they  are  ore  unrefined ;  but  if  the  silver  is  more  than  will  pay  the  ex.^ 
pence  of  refining,  the  pieces  are  taken  to  the  refining  Aimace.  The  slag  lead,  not 
worth  refining,  is  marked  S.  signifying  that  the  pieces  ore  directly  produced  firom 
slag.  After  refining,  lead  is  marked  £,  and  is  termed  Refined  Lead ;  that  whidi  is 
produced  from  slag  lead  is  called  Refined  Slag  Lead,  and  is  marked  R.  S.  The  pro* 
pess  of  refining  consists  in  converting  the  lead  into  litharge  by  exposure  to  heat  upon 
a  test.  The  Etharge  is  l>lawn  off,  and  the  silver  remaitas  beUnd.  The  litharge  is 
again  melted  in  a  furnace,  reduced  to  lead,  and  cast  into  pieces  or  bars  of  one  hundred 
weight  and  a  half  each.  It  is  then  marketablet  Refinea  lead  is  esteemed  the  purest 
and  most  valuable  sort  of  that  metal. 

The  Allendale  lead  ore  produces  about  seven  or  eight  ounces  of  silver  from  each 
fother  of  lead.  Some  ore  at  Alston  has  yielded  42  ounces  per  fother !  The  ore  got 
at  Fallowfield  contains  so  Ettle  silv»,  that  it  will  not  pay  the  expence  of  refining*. 

Miners  generally  take  a  certain  length  of  ground,  extending  either  twelve,  fifteen^ 
or  twenty  fathoms,  in  which  they  propose  to  raise  ore,  for  a  fixed  tune,  at  so  much 
per  ^ipg,  according  to  the  richnete,  quality,  or  hardness  of  the  mine.  These  har^ 
gain9  ore  tal^eh  in  partnerships^  consisting  of  ^om  two  to  eight  men.    The  Umse^  or 


*  In  lt97>  Mr  Robert  iJohii9Mi{ir68cnted*tQtkeJLitenary  and  PhilosophaGAl  Society  of  Newcastle,  sped* 
Inena  cfu,  itnall  vein  er  0b4ng  of  lead  ore,  Ibunc}:  in  sinking  a  pit  through  a  stratum  of  White  Post  or  Free* 
atone,  at  Wittingion';  ahdit  was  renuvkiMe,  tha^  the  lead  pfoddoed  ft-om  this'  ore,  on  being  assayed  by  Mr 
Mulcaater,  waa  found  to  contain  a  smaller  portion  of  silver  than  the  purest  refined  lead. 


NORTHUMBl^ULAND.     ^  101 

iiftpure  oie»  viihen  drawn  fram  the  mine,  is  also  usually  let  to  the  washers  at  so  much 

per  faii^. 

Pig  lead  is  sold  by  the  fother,  a  quantity  containing  SI  cwt  The  foUowis^  state* 
ment  shews  the  fluctuating  price  or  this  article : — 

In  1776,  it  was  as  low  as. ^12    0  per  fother. 

In  1782,  it  sold  at    17    5  

In  1788,  it  rose  gradually  to   23  10  

In  1789,  it  fdl  to     16  10  

In  1805,  it  rose  so  high  as   40    0  ...... 

To  1809,  it  fluctuated,  and  frequently  rose  to  40    0  ..... . 

In  1810,  it  sold  at    81  10 

In  1813,  its  price  was 25    0  

In  1814,  it  fell  to ; 18  10  

In  1815,  it  rose  again  to.... 22    0  

In  1816,  it  returned  to 18  10  ...... 

In  1817,  it  fell  as  low  as 17  10  

In  1818,  it  sold  at 19  15  

In  1819,  it  advanced  to    23    0  ...... 

In  1820,  it  sold  at    / 24  10  

In  1821,  ite  price  was 22  10  

A  variety  of  prcumstances  combine  to  render  the'  mines  which  produce  lead  ore 
very  uncertain  in  point  of  profit  to  the  adventurers.  They  are,  however,  wrought 
with  great  spirit,  and  are  not  only  productive  of  occasional  and  great  profits  to  the 
owners,  but  also  give  employip^nt  tQ  ^  numerous  class  of  industrious  workmen. 

IRON  MINES. 

Iron  scoriae,  the  refuse  of  ancient  bloomeries,  are  found  in  various  parts  of  this  nw- 
them  district,  which  seem  to  indicate  that  the  Romans  were  acquainted  with  our 
iron  mines.  An  altar,  discovered  at  their  station  Candereum^  or  Benwell,  is  inscribed 
to  Jupiter  IMUJiemu^  the  deity  who  presided  over  iMs  metal.  But  during  the  pre-* 
dcnninance  of  the  Saxoii^and  Danish  power,  and  even  for  some  ages  after  the  Norman 
Conquest,  these  parts  were  too  mudi  perplexed  by  wars  and  intestine  broils  to  admit 
of  the  erection  of  such  useful,  though  exnensive  works. 

Iron  <Mre  is  found  both  in  die  coal  and  the  lead  districts.  Immense  quantities  of 
iron  pyrites  lie  imbedded  in  the  strata  of  indjurated  day,  through  att  the  coal-field. 
The  m>n  wcxrks  at  Lemington  are  mostly  supplied  with  this  metal  from  the  neigh- 
bouring collieries.  Iron-stone  is  still  more  abundant  in  the  shale  of  the  lead  mines ; 
but  owmff  to  the  high  price  of  fuel,  and  the  great  distanee  from  any  water  cmiage, 
it  cannot  DC  manufactured  to  advantage.  At  the  banning  of  the  last  century,  ao>- 
joordingto  Mr.  Wallis,  an  irop  manufactory  was  established  at  Lee  Hall,  on  the 
North  Tyne,  near  BdDin^iam,  under  the  direction  of  a  Mr,  Wood,  son  of  the  Irish 
projector  of  that  name.  The  ore  was  plentiftil  in  the  strata  of  a  romantic  predpice 
on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  bar-iron  was  made  from 
it ;  but  it  seems  that  charcoal  becoming  scarce,  the  work  was  relinquished.  There 
were  form^ly  furnaces  for  inciting  iron  at  Bebside,    The  ore  was  found  on  th« 

VOL.  I.  2  C 


Id6  GENERAL  DESCRlPnOV  OF 

south  lM«  <^  the  livtr  Bljrth,  nbout  four  miles  firom  Ae  sea-port  of  tfait  name.  Tfte 
Carron  Company  were  accustomed  to  collect  in  Holy  Island  a  part  of  the  ore  smeltMl 
"M,  their  f  urnAcesi  but  they  h^ve  lon^  fionoe  relinquished  this  undertaldng.  Th^  neigh- 
bourhood of  Prudhoe  Castle,  it  is  said,  aboimds  with  ridli  iron-4itone. 

COPPEK  MINES. 

Mr.  Wallis  inferred  from  the  conic  heaps  of  copper  scorias  remd,ining  near  Coquet 
Head,  and  dose  to  the  military  way  of  Watling  Street,  that  the  Romans  had  copper 
works  in  this  county/  But  the  writers  ot  the  article  *  Northumberland,'  in  the 
Beauties  of  England,  think  differently.  "  Thei*e  are  several  conical  heaps  of  metallic 
scoriae,"  say  they,  **  at  a  hamlet  called  Ridleys,  in  the  parish  of  Hallystone ;  and  it  is 
in  the  memory  of  persons  yet  alive,  since  diligent  search  was  made  about  this  place  to 
discover  the  veins  that  pranced  them ;  but  it  does  not  appear  that  this  search  was 
attended  with  success.  Mr.  Wallis  was  probably  misled,  when  he  was  informed  that 
these  heaps  were  the  refuse  (jt  copper,  as  he  certainly  was  respecting  the  indications 
of  that  metal  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ingram,  and  of  Eglingham.  An  attempt  wa^ 
formerly  made  to  extract  copperas  from  me  pyrites  or  gmd-stones,  raised  from  a  small 
colliery  in  Eglingham  parish,  and  the  refuse  m  this  unsuccessful  speculation  was  mis- 
taken for  the  scoriae  of  copper."  The  copper  found  in  our  coal  and  lead  works  is  not 
Worth  workiiTg. 

PORPHYRmC  FORMATION. 

The  limits  of  the  Independent  Coal  Formation  of  Northumberland  have  been 
given.  The  rest  of  the  county  is  occupied  by  the  mountain  limestone,  or  lead  mine 
measdires,  except  a  consideTable  tract  in  the  north-west,  wfaidi  eonsists  of  primitive 
mcks  that  rise  from  below  the  lead  measures.  Tins  formation  indades  the  Cheviot 
Hills,  and  the  subordinate  mountains  of  Hedgehope  and  Horthope*  It  extwids  from 
Flodden  HiUs  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Linn  Bndge,  €m  the  banks  of  the  Coquet ; 
and  on  the  east  it  terminates  in  Roddam  Dean,  where  the  old  red  sandstone,  the  usfual 
attendant  of  primary  mountains,  is  found  rising  to  the  day. 

Cheviot,  from  which  the  whole  groupe  of  porphyiitic  hiUs  is  named,  is  a  huge 
round-topped  mountain,  rising  2643  foet  above  tb^  levd  of  the  sea.  Thelnf^fr  parts 
of  tlie  Cheviot  range  are  covared  with  peat  moss,  and  their  lower  aodi vilies  with  aU»- 
vial  soil,  upon  porphyry  and  segenite  of  various  modifications.  The  summit  <»f  Che- 
viot presents  large  craggy  rocks  of  whinstone*  and  hcnxiUende ;  but  Mr  Bi^oee,  in  tm% 
veying  this  formation^  could  not  obsearve  their  junctacm  with  the  maan  rock.  Honi/i- 
blende  is,  however,  not  tmcommon  among  tJaose  hSlis.    Houisy  Crag,  which  rises 

*  Tke  Htm.  H.  G.  Bennett  traced  a  whin  dike  a  few  milea  iahnd  frem  Biadtiel  fiegr«  where  it  tana^  a 
species  of  pier  into  the  sea.  At  low  wat^r  upwards  of  SOO  jaids  of  this  dike  is  eeei^  standing  above  thf 
limeAtoae  strata.  It  is  27  Ifeet  in  widths  uid  hasvdeteriocated  the  acfjaeent  liateston^  strata.  Mr  Bennet  ^ 
serves,  that  this  irhia  dike,  the  two  which  are  so  near  to  each  other  in  H0I7  Island^  and  those  which  form 
the  Fftm  Islands,  bear  a  striking  and  uniform  resemblance  to  each  other,  .and  4ire  unlike  those  large  maases 
Of  whin  which  prevaQ  on  the  Cheviot— Traiw.  Geo,  Sockt^^  vol,  tv.  p.  104. 


KOirGKU^iBSIltAifD^ 


106 


4AaV/e  the  famii^oiifle  nefix  lM^dmr*fyifid^  in  iJm  valley,  l)etw^^ii  S^^hope  apd  Che- 
vhU  is  composed  of  ^  vmety  qF  tw«'  roc^^'Mid  the  peipendiculdr  cuffs  pf  WeUhole^ 
on  the  opposite  side  i>f  the  Chj^vioiU  <MW»t  ftUo  of  tint  M.me  rock. 
.  The  ouy  metallic  otre$  diitooyer^  jlu  thi^  di$triqt  ar^  bp^^iron,  which  is  foiincl  in 
the  bottom  of  mora$9es»  and  a  snuiU  vein  of  red  ochre,  whidi  jtrayerjse  the  rocks  above 
Langky-fdrd. .  The  shepherds  use  it  fbr  marking  their  sheep. 

ALLUVIAL  FOSSILS. 

Blocks,  or  detached  massea  of  different  rocks^  are  ftmnd  scattered  over  tibe  'whqUe 
auffaee  of  Northumberland.  Sevend  deserving  notice  for  their  utility  and  beauty, 
Iwve  be^fi  incidentally  menticmed  Masses  of  mue  eorralloid  limestone,  the  produice 
of  the  lead  mfaie  district,  aitefoutidat  CuUercoats  and  various  other  places.  Clese^ 
grained  somktone,  applioalde  to  all  tiie  purposes,  of  buil^bng,  occur  in  almost  ^very 

Kt.  Masses  of  white  and  beautiful  fteestone,  have  been  found  near  the  vill^gfe  of 
ngwitton.    Slate  is  quarried  in  various  places. 

Blocks  of  hard  black  basalt  are  foond  in  abundanee.  It  bounds  the  lake  at  Sheut- 
ing  Shield  iii  <yveilsviiig  masses.  It  assumes  a  similar  appearonee  at  Barrasford,  on 
the  North  Tyne,  and  ranges  to  the  vicinity  of  Tkockringtoh,  BavingtcMi,  and  Kirfc- 
whelpingtem,  and  hetice  in  a  north-easterly  dirtetion  as  far  as  Causey  Paric,  nordi  <xf 
Morpeth.  Basaltic  emineiices  stretches  northward  b^nveen  Alnwiclc  and  Berwfdk, 
and  suppcMt  the  easlles  of  Dunstanbrough,  Bambrough,  and  Holy  Island.  This  rock 
was  formerly  quarried  at  Craster,  near  Uowick,  and  shipped  to  London  for  paving 
stones.  An  extensive  quarry  is  worked  in  a  basaltic  dike  at  Embleton.  Basaltic  is 
an  excellent  material  for  f^rmmg  roads,  and  is^  well  adapted  for  the  construction  of 
walls,  and  for  the  lining  of  lim«  kflns.  Craster  House  is  fronted  with  this  rock. 
From  t}iis  stone  the  ancient  Britmis  formed  the  heads  of  their  battle-axes.  Barbed 
arrow  heads,  neatly  finisfaed,  and  made  of  pale-coloured  fy^fit,  are  frequency  picked 
up  on  our  mows.  Masses  of  porohyry,  ci  a  greenish  black  colour,  are  common,  par- 
ticularly  in  the  bed  of^the  Devil  Water.  Blocks  of  porphvry  slate  are  found  on  tiie 
banks  of  the  Tyne,  near  to  Hordey ;  and  masses  of  a  similar  rock  in  the  bed  of  flie 
water  near  Dilston^  Blocks  of  granite,  of  a  gre^  colour  and  fine  grained,  are  found 
ki  the  hfflod^  on  the  plain  of  Bewick.    The  «ame  rode  occurs  in  many  other  parts. 

The  beautiful  tmnsparent  crystak  found  in  the  lead  mines  have  been  before  notiodi. 
Crysts^,  which  ]^hop  Gibson,  the  learned  editor  .of  Camden^  comporeB  to  Bristol  atones, 
have  been  discovered  under  the  gravelly  surface  near  Dunstanburgh  Castle.  Cludce- 
dony  is  found  in  the  basaltic  quarrv  at  Walbottie  Dean ;  and  the  carnelian,  according 
to  W  allis,  is  sometimes  found  on  tne  shores  of  the  Coquet  and  Tweed.  Topazes  are 
occaedonaUy  discovered  on  the  banks  of  the  Coquet  above  Rothbur}'^ ;  and  this  river, 
4»  well  as  the  AIn,  Breamish,  and  Gkn;  abounds  with  agates.  Porphyritic  pebbles,  of 
^Many  beautiful  varieties,  am  also  reoomieedm  the  same  places.  They  take  ai  exqui- 
site piA^,  and  were  foimed  into  sacred  beads,  or  magic  gems,  by  tiie  ingenious  Druids. 

Marl,  of  a  light  grey  colour,  have  been  disoo%B»ea  in  oomiderable  quantities  on  the 
•west  side  of  tile  river  Till»  in  situations  whicfc  seem  to  have  been  the  bottom  of  lakes, 
substance  has  been  Aoiit^ed  at  Wark,  Sunnylaws,  Learmouth,  Mindrum,  the 


% 


.    104  GENEKAL  DESCKIPTION  OF 

Hagg,  and  at  several  otiher  places  in  that  neighbourhood.    A  great  yariety  of  odiMs 

are  found  in  the  rocks  at  Beadnel^  Debden,  Alnwick  Moor,  Simonbum»  and  other 

parts.    An  argillaceous  pale  yellow  earth,  useful  to  skinners  and  glovers,  is  found  at  4 

High  Sheels,  near  Hexham,  and  at  Black  Sheel  Bog,  two  miles  south  of  Haltwhistle. 

A  similar  earth,  of  an  ash  colour,  may  be  recognised  at  West  Thirston,  near  Felton. 

Stealites  is  found  in  small  veins  on  Oillale^  lull,  and  is  used  in  whitening  hearths 

and  chimney-pieces.    Many  elegant  varieties  of  this  fossil  are  found  on  the  shores  of 

our  alpine  brooks  and  rivers. 

The  extensive  mines  in  this  county  abound  with  organic  remains.  It  is  remarked 
by  an  able  naturalist,  that  not  one  of  the  vegetables  w[hich  hfve  left  impressicms  on 
our  shale,  sandstone,  and  coal,  are  known  to  exist  at  the  present  day.  Gigantic  trunks 
of  trees,  reeds»  cones,  and  mosses,  frequently  occur  in  the  coal-field ;  out  it  is  not 
easy  to  conjectiuie  to  what  species  they  belonged.  It  is,  however>  dear,  that  they  are 
not  the  productions  of  a  cold  climate.  These  mineralized  veffetables  retain  their  1 
when  erect,  but  are  always  compressed  where  found  in  a  norizontd  position. 
Wallis  mentions  a  hazle  bush,  with  nuts  upon  it,  being  found  in  sinking  a  pit  at 
Leminffton,  near  Newbum,  fifteen  fathoms  deep,  in  a  mMs  earth. 

Fosfiu  shells  have  been  found  in  difiTerent  parts  of  Northumberland.  Mr  Wallis 
describes  seventeen  varieties  of  the  univalves,  and  twenty-two  of  the  bivalves.  **  We 
have,"  says  he,  **  single  valves  in  the  limestone  quarries  about  Stamfordham ;  in  the 
large  quarry  at  Newton  on  the  Moor,  near  Alnwick ;  in  the  quarry  at  Blakelaw,  on 
.  Broad-pool  Common,  near  Simonbum ;  and  in  another  large  one  on  Wark  Common^ 
near  Lmacres,  in  Tindale."  Bivalve  shdls,  resembling  the  fresh^water  muscle,  are 
^sometimes  found  in  the  shale,  and  frequently  in  the  iron**stone,  of  our  coal  mines. 
Mr  Winch  does  not  believe  that  any  marine  shells,  zoophytes,  or  corallines,  have  ever 
jyeen  detected  in  the  coal  measures  of  this  district.  JSut  the  late  Dr,  Cay,  of  New- 
castle, had  one  or  two  varieties  of  the  small  striated  nautalita9»  a  native  of  the  Indian 
Sea,  which  were  said  to  have  been  found  in  the  neighbouring  coal  mines. 

Fossil  remains  of  quadrupeds  are  not  common.  In  Bailey  and  CuUey's  Agricultu- 
ral View  of  Northumberland,  we  are  told  of  the  horns  of  a  red  deer  entire,  with  part 
of  the  skull,  being  found  about  seventy  years  ago,  in  •  the  middle  of  a  freestone  rpck> 
near  Bebside.  A  red  deer,  in  the  attitude  of  running,  and  in  ev^ry  part  complete^ 
was  found  imbedded  in  the  marl  at  Learmouth.  The  core  of  a  pair  of  horns,  b^ong. 
ing  to  the  bos  taurus  species,  was  also  discovered  in  the  same  place.  From  their  mag- 
nitude, they  appeared  to  have  belonged  to  a  different  species  of  cattle  from  any  we 
have  at  present, 

BOTANY. 

.  The  botany  of  Northumberland  has  attracted  the  attention  and  exercised  the  sldU 
of  many  curious  and  intelligent  observers  of  the  vegetable  kingdom.  There  are,  in- 
deed, few  parts  where  this  delightful  department  of  natural  philosophy  has,  of  late 
years,  been  more  seduously  and  successfully  cultivated.  To  forward  the  purposes  of 
science,  Messrs  Winch  and  ThomhiU,  and  the  late  Mr,  Waugh,  with  great  liberality, 
engaged  to  prepare  a  complete  Herbarium  of  British  plants^  for  the  use  of  the  Lite- 
rary and  Philosopbical  Society  of  Newcastle ;  and,  to  begin  the  collection,  they  pre*. 


KOKTHUMBSfiLAND.  105 

sented  above  700  specimens  of  dried  indig^ioiis  plants,  armnged  acoordihg  to  Dr. 
Smith's  Flora  fidtaimica.  The  same  gentlemen  also  published  a  list,  in  two  volumes, 
ci  the  Hames  and  habitations  of  the  Northumberlana  and  Ihirham  plants,  the  result 
of  various  fatiguing  excursions  performed  in  the  course  of  ten  years,  aided  by  the 
jnendly  cammunications  of  several  eisdneiit  botanists^.  Mr.  Tnomhill  also  oMiged 
tbe  puotic  with  an  excdlent  work  on  grasses,  with  the  singular  and  useful  illustra- 
ti(m  of  dried  specimens.  In  May,  1819»  that  skilful  and  mdustrious  naturalist,  Mr 
Wineh,  read  at  a  meeting  of  the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Society  in  Newcastle,  an 
ingenious  and  interesting  essay  on  the  geographical  distribution  of  plants,  through 
the  counties  of  Northumberland,  Cumbenand,  and  Durhamf .  The  same  zeal  for  the 
extension  of  this  impoirtant  and  pleasing  sdeno^  which  has  effigcted  so  much,  wiQ,  it 
is  hoped^  continue  to  enrieh  awr  provinaal  Fk>ra,  with  the  addition  of  many  rare  and 
curious  plants. 

Northumberland,  in  andeni  times,  hba  been  richly  ckythed  with  beaut^Fiil  woods, 
as  many  of  its:  topo^graphieal  appeOationB  indicate.  Even  in  the  bleak  and  dievated 
moors  in  the  south-west  parts  of  the  county,  enmtnous  trunks  and  branches  of  oak 
are  dug  ont  of  all  the  peat  mKisses ;  and  the  rtsmains  of  this  valuable  timber  also  occur 
among  the  bare  recesses  of  the  Cheviot  mountains.  In  the  moorlands  that  skirt  the 
Derwent,  ancient  pines  of  an  extraordinary  size  have  been  discovered,  though  this 
tree  is  no  lon^r  indigenous  with  us^.    Besides  Cheviot,  Rothbury,  Reedsdale,  Ears- 

*  The  Bditore  aoMdly  acknowledge  iheib*  dblif^eitt  fo  Wallis's  Higtcnry  ef  Northumberland,  which,  hj 
m^dmtk  botttnuts,  has  been  dlrangely  ifeglectcd.  Some  habitats,  mentioned  by  Mr.  WaUis,  they  W^ie  unable 
to  re*diMoven  Bat  ^m  is  net  tnrpriging,  fbr  Idke  nuti^^  abodea  of  rare  plants  may  sometunes  be  desfararyed 
by  an  extended  oidttraEkion,  and  a  particular  apedea  may  eaaUy  elode  observation.  To  analke,  with  precis 
aicD,  1he/vt^iBlJBblftpixxl<iotionr  of  a  very  UaoitM  district,,  ia  the  work  of  a  mun'a  U^. 

t  This  tract  of  country  possesses  a  Flora  of  Phcenogamous,  and  1 160  Chryptogamic  (or  Ferns,  Mosses, 
Flags,  and  Mushrooms)^  plants,  of  which  between  fort^  and  fifty  i^re  peculiar  to  Cumberland,  Amoi^  the 
Pbcenogamous  plants  are  comprised :— ^-27  species  of  Trees,  besides  SO  Willows ;  11  Roses ;  174  Grasses  and 
Grass-like  Plants;  20  Orchideae;  l6  Liliaceous  Plunts;  14>  Rough-leaved  Plants  (Asperifolies) ;  47  Umb^* 
Hferous  Plants ;  41  Plants  bearing  cross-shaped  Flowers  (Cruciforraae)  ;  S6  Lapped  Flowers  (Labiatse) ; 
}6  Masked  Flowers  (Personatse) ;  9^  Bearing  Compound  Flowers  (Compositae) ;  56  Species  whose  habitats 
are-  on  the  sea  coast;  84  Alpine  Plants,  of  which  14  are  exclusively  natives  of  the  Cumberland  mountains ; 
05  Ajquatics,  natives  of  fresh  water ;  ]104  Marine  Aquatics;  85  British  species  brought  amongst  ballast ;  and 
92  £xottcs  introduced  by  the  ^me  meaild. — See  Mr  Wirtch's  Essay  on  the  Geography  of  Plants.  From  this 
Tiihiable  publication  much  assistance  has  been  obtained  in  drawing  up'  this  article^ 

X  On  traversing  the  wild  and  extensive  moors  of  Durham,  Cumberland,  and  the  south  of  Northumberland, 
an  mteresdng  phenomenon  presents  itself  to  view  in  numerous  places }  here  the  surface  has  been  cast  into 
equid  rfdgee'by  the  plough,  though  the  land  ia  now  covered  by  heath,  and  agriculture  has  formerly  flourished 
in  situations  so  elevated  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  obtaining  com  crops  fhmi  them  at  the  present  day. 
Record  and  tradition  are  alike  silent  respecting  the  era  when,  and  the  people  by  whom,  these  districts  were 
siAS«&ted  to  tillage;  niof  has  any  pirobdiUe  eonjectuT^  been  started  to  thi^w  light  on  tins  curious  subject, 
mio  most  considerable  elevatidti  aliov^  the'  level  of  the  sai  at  which  wheat  is  new  cukivated,  does  not  exceed  a 
tiioiisaadfeet    OatfiifroWAtncariydoublettet  height;  bnl in  ufifaveumble  yedvft  Ae  sheavtB  ma^ (r«([|tten«iy 

VOL.  L  8  D 


106  GENEKAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

*  don,  near  Longhorsley,  Lowes,  Allendale,  and  Knaresdale,  in  ancient  times  contaitied 
extensive  forests.  The  ^*  Great  Wood  of  Cheviot"  appears  in  the  reign  ci  Henrjr 
VIII.  to  have  been  disrobed  of  its  beautiful  verdure,  sbrubs  and  some  crooked  old 
trees  being  then  only  remaining. 

The  Wych  and  smooth4eav^  Elm  is  abundant  in  every  hed^e,  but  the  common 
Elm,  even  in  sheltered  plantations,  do  not  attain  to  a  considerwMe  size.  The  Beech 
flourishes  considerably  in  the  vales.  The  Aspen  is  also  a  native ;  but  white  and  bhck 
Poplars,  the  Lime,  the  Chesnut,  and  the  Hornbeam,  are  not  found  in  our  natural 
woods.  Birch  flourishes  in  many  parts ;  but  the  HoUy  and  the  Yew  rarely  occur. 
The  Mountain  A^h  and  the  Sycamore  delight  in  hi^h  situations.  The  Alder  and 
Marsh  Alder  accompany  every  stream ;  and  the  Ha^e,  Black  Cherry,  Bird  Cherry, 
the  Spindle  Tree,  the  Raspberry,  and  the  common  Elder,  are  found  in  all  the  woods 
from  the  sea  shore  to  those  situated  at  an  elevation  of  1600  feet. 

The  Ash,  and  White  Thorn,  as  well  as  the  less  useful  Crab  tree,  and  Black  Thorn, 
abound  in  every  part ;  but  the  Bullaoe  tree  is  extremely  rare ;  and  the  Plumb  tree. 
Pear  tree,  black  and  red  Currants,  the  Barberry,  and  Gooseberry,  though  of  ftequent 
occurrence,  cannot  be  ranked  amongst  the  ori^nal  natives  of  the  soil.  Howev»,  the 
rock  Currant,  add  mountain  Currant,  alpine  Currant,  and  the  Privot,  are  certainly 
indigenous. 

We  have  a  variety  both  of  native  and  exotic  Willows.  The  blue  Willow  is  sup- 
posed to  be  indigenous,  while  the  gcdden  Willow  seems  to  have  been  brought  from 
the  -south  of  £iux>pe.  The  banks  of  our  sub-alpine  rivulets  is  the  true  locality  of  Ihe 
broad4eaved  Monaddphous  Willow.  The  Weq>ing  Willow,  a  native  of  Syria,  never 
flowers  in  this  district.  The  Furze  flourishes  in  sheltered  situations,  and  is  found  in 
the  sequestered  dells  of  our  mountains,  where  the  common  Bramble  is  all  but  an  erer^ 
green,  and  where  the  fronds  of  many  Ferns  survive  the  severity  of  our  winter.  The 
mountain  Bramble  and  the  common  Juniper  flourish  on  the  very  summits  of  the 
Cheviots. 

Mr  Winch  observes,  that  many  exotic  shrubs,  well  known  in  our  gardens  and  plan- 
tations, natives  of  the  north  of  Asia,  Pprtugal,  Japan,  and  even  SouUi  America,  resist 
the  severity'  of  our  winter  much  better  than  many  which  are  indigenous  in  Italy,  the 
South  of  France,  and  Germany.  The  common  Myrtle  and  the  Pomegranate  are 
exceedingly  tender ;  and  the  common  Laurel,  the  Bay,  and  the  Strawberry  tree,  never 
flower  here.  But  the  Provence  Rose,  and  the  white  Rose,  are  naturahzed  on  the 
shores  of  the  Tyne ;  and  the  yellow  Rose  floiuishes  in  the  vicinity  of  Hexham.  The 
Horse  Chesnut,  from  the  North  of  Asia,  the  Lombardy  Poplar,  the  Canada  Poplar, 
the  American  Angular  Poplar,  the  Larch,  and  Silver  Fir  from  the  Alps ;  the  Spruce 
Fir  from  the  Norm  of  Europe,  and  the  American  Ashes,  are  the  exotic  trees  that 
succeed  best  in  our  woods  and  plantations.  The  Oriental  Plane  tree,  the  Lobe-leaved 
Plane  tree,  the  Cork,  Evergreen  Oaks,  and  the  Cedar  of  Lebanon,  only  on  the  best 
soils,  and  when  well  protected. 


.* 


be  seen  standing  among  the  mow,  which  not  uncommonly  covers  the  tops  of  the  mountains  in  October,  and 
is  never  Uter  in  fiilling  than  the  middle  of  November.  The  stations  of  barky  and  rye  are  between  those  of 
the  wheat  and  oats;  but  bigg,  a  more  hardy  grain  than  either  of  the  fonner,  is  no  longer  cttltivated«i*Gci^« 
ff  Plants,  fry  N.  J.  Winch,  p.  I9. 


•• 


MiaTHC7M6KBX.ANp.  107 

The  Vine  seldom  flowers^  and  if  by  chance  small  grapes  are  produced,  they  soon 
drop  off.  The  Fig  is  seldom  seen  out  of  the  hot-house,  and  is  always  barren.  The 
Qumce  and  Medlar  flower  freely,  but  their  fruit  never  ripens ;  and  the  same  observa- 
tion holds  good  with  r^^ard  tp.  the  Walmit  imd  Chesnut ;  even  the  Filbert  bears  very 
sparingly.  The  Mulberry  is  hcarp  a  low  stunted  tree,  but  in  favourable  summers  bears 
abundance  of  small  fruit,  which  partly  ripens  and  is  well  flavoured.  The  white  or 
opium  Poppy,  which  is  cultivated  oh  a  large  scale  in  Flanders,  and  the  Tobacco, 
which  is  to  be  met  with  as  far  to  the  north  as  Sweden,  are  here  known  only  as  oma^ 
ments  to  the  flower  garden.  The  Fox-glove,  celebrated  for  its  medicinal  virtues,  is 
scarce.  The  Hensbane  is  common  about  our  villages,  but  the  deadly  Night-shade  is 
fortunately  very  rare. 

This  county  possesses  a  great  variety  of  Grasses,  Sedges,  and  Rushes.  About 
twenty  of  the  more  delicate  grasses,  mixed  with  some  few  plants  that  are  able  to  con- 
tend with  them  for  possession  of  the  soil^  cover  our  meadow  and  pasture  fields ;  while 
the  strong-coated,  harsh-leaved  Sedges^  Cotton  Grasses,  Mat  Grass,  and  small  Club 
Hush,  scantily  clothe  the  elevated  and  boggy  moors  of  the  Cheviots,  where  no  other 

grasses  are  to  be  seen,  and  during  the  summer  months  afford  pasturage  to  numerous 
odes  of  sAieep.  The  cross-leaved  Heath,  the  fine-leaved  Heath,  and  the  common 
Heath,  or  Ling,  which  are  not  found  in  the  Yorkshire  Wolds,  or  the  Downs  of  the 
southern  counties,  give  a  peculiar  character  to  our  moors  and  fells. 

The  plants  that  bind  the  loose  sands  of  the  sea  sh6re,  form  low  round-topped  hills, 
called  Links,  along,  a  considerable  part  of  our  coasts.  Of  the  domestic  plants,  which 
follow  the  footsteps  of  man,  and  thrive  amidst  dust  and  rubbish,  we  have  such  as  are 
common  to  the  rest  of  England.  The  Wormwood,  Mallow,  Mugwort,  Hemlock, 
Docks,  iic  are  to  be  found  wherever  a  few  miserable  hovels  are  built.  The  constant 
appearance  of  these  weeds  about  towns  and  villages,  (observes  the  botanist  so  often 

Sioted),  is  a  curious  and  inexplicable  phenomenon,  for  no  one  ever  cultivated  such 
^  ants  for  utility,  much  less  for  ornament. 

Our  Flora  is  fftadually  becoming  rich^.  The  Summer  Snow  Flake,  the  single 
yellow  Tulip,  ana  the  Drooping  Star  of  Bethlehem,  have  at  no  very  distant  period 
escaped  from  tlie  garden,  and  are  now  indigenous.  The  Snow-drop,  Daffodil,  Bitter 
Candy-tuft,  Celendine,  and  Scentless  Dame's  Violet,  stiU  linger  near  some  habitation. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  Columbine  is  truly  a  native  of  oiu"  woods ;  and  the  Roseberry 
Willow  Herb^  (which  has  been  imagined  to  be  exotic),  is  found  on  our  most  inacces- 
sible rocks.  The  Woad  and  the  Hop  are  thoi^ht^  to  have  been  originally  strangers ; 
though  if  it  could  be  ascertained  that  the  Britons  stained  themselves  blue  with  a  pre- 
paration of  the  former,  it  ought  to  be  considered  indigenous. 

The  whole  number  of  vegetables  detected  in  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  scarcely  ex- 
ceeds 8000,  of  which  two-thirds  are  to  be  found  in  the  three  northern  counties.  Nor- 
thumberland itself  possesses  a  copious  and  highly  diversified  Flora.  The  extent  of 
the  sea  coast,  the  variety  of  mountainfii  and  dales,  and  of  wild  and  cultivated  country, 
are  favourable  to  the  growth  of  different  plants.  Another  cause  of  the  diversity  of 
our  vegetable  productions,  it  has  been  well  obs^ved,  may  be  owing  to  the  decompo- 
sition of  the  several  formations  of  rocky  strata ;  for  the  dfiemical  character  of  soils  has 
both  a  direct  and  an  indirect  influence  on  the  reproductien  and  health  of  many  plants. 


109  GENfiBAL^SEESCaiPnON  OF 


• . » 


ZOOLOGY. 

Fiaw  parts  of  England  excel  NorthtimberfSand  foir  ah  e:s(ee3tent  and  improved  breed 
of  domestic  animals. '  this  superioritjr  is  not  sa  inueh  owing  to  the  ^ubrity  of  our 
climate  and  our  pasturages,  as  to.  the  close  attention  and  judicious  observaticms  of  oiht 
eminent  breeders.  Our  great  success  in  breeding  cattle  and  sheep  is  in  a  great  mea> 
sure  owinff  to  the  enlightened  exertions  of  Mr.  C  CuUey.  •  This  distinguished  patrunt 
was  in  eany  fife  a  pupil  of  Mr.  Bladbwefl,  the^  celebrated  Leicestershire  breeder,  imd 
has,  for  many  years,  been  an  extensive  occupier  in  the  horth  of  this  county.  "  His 
breed  of  sheep/'  says  an  eminent  agriculturist,  **are  known  even  to  the  farthest 
Thuhy  by  the  popiiW  name  of  the  CnUey  Steed/*  The  same  laudable  zeal  for  the 
promotimi  of  useful. improvements  has  also  induced  Mr.  C.  to  publish  his  vahidble 
observations  on  Live  Stock  in  general ;  and  in  the  following  account  of  Northumber* 
land  animals,  we  have  been  imich  indebted  to  hia  accurate  descriptions. 

Before  the  modem  maxims  of  breeding  were  introduced  by  this  gentleman,  hig^ 
hones  and  large  eke  were  looked  upon  as  the  princij3«tl  criterion  of  excellence,  and  a 
sacred  adherence  to  the  rule  of  never  breeding  withm  the  canonical  rules  of  relation- 
ship ;  but  these  prejudices,  observes  the  late  Mt.  Bailey,  his  able  coadjutor,  are  at 
this  period,  in  a  great  measure,  done  away ;  and  the  principal  fanners  of  tihis  district 
may  now  be  classed  amongst  Ae  most  scientific  breeders  in  the  kingdom,  who  have 
pursued  it  vrith  an  ardour  and  unremitting  attenticin  that  have  not  failed  of  success. 

HoKSES. — Horses  of  strength  and  size  for  service  were  rare  in  the  nort^*  tffl  the 
year  1435,  when  a  fine  sort  were  imported  from  Hungary  into  Scotland,  by  tfce  order 
of  the  Scotch  king,  the  accomplished  James  I.,  whereby  the  English  bcH'derers  were 
furnished  with  a  martial  and  handsome  race,  Equi  vohteres ;  their  horses  before  being 
only  like  mountain  hobbies,  Segnipedes^  not  fouied  by  the  wafftioi's  or  the  hunter^! 
horn. 

The  horses  at  present  bred  in  this  county  are  of  different  sort^,  descended  from 
stalli(»is  of  different  kinds.  The  heavy,  slug^sh,  rough-legged  black  has  nearly 
disappeared,  and  is  succeedied  by  an  animal  which  unites  the  advantc^s  of  strength 
And  docility  with  those' of  form,  activity,  and  vigour.  Prom  the  ftm-Uood  stallioM 
and  country  mares,  af^  bred  excellent  Hunters. 

The  comparative  low  price'riven  for  good  road  horses  had  tid  doubt  contributed  kh 
discourage  improvements  iji  this  valuable  breed.  From  the  judgment  and  exjfiierience 
of  our  sporting  gentlemen,  this  county  has,  however,  been  long  famous  for  an  excellent 
breed  of  hunting  horses,,  which  form  a  happy  combination  of  the  race  hotise  wift 
others  of  inferior  swiftness,  but  possessing  stt^ngth,  spirit,  and  actii^^ty.  They  are 
mostly  of  a  bay  colour,  and  are  iustfy  esteemed  for  their  activity,  strength,  and  hard^ 
ness/  At  the  amnual  fairs,  at  Newcastle,  large  shows  of  these  useful  etitetures  are 
Exhibited.  Great  numbers  arie  bought  for  the  southern  parts  of  England,  wheite 
fhey  are  used  to  replace  the  old  heavy  bliack  breed,  both  fbr  the  saddle  and  harness* 

Our  best  draught  horses  are  brought  from  Clydesdale,  in  Scotland ;  they  are  Gene- 
rally from  fifteen  and  a  half  to  sixteen  hands  ni^h ;  strong,  hafdy,  afnd  remarkably 
good  takdi  true  pullers.    They  are  mostly  of  a  grey  or  brown  cofour,  and  are  said  to 


t 


t )  XOBTHlJ]lfBERIlA]BID:^:  r.  >  M9 


hove  been  piYxldoed>bv:hcrj0i8'b^  Scotch  kind,  mii 

sik^odacH.hovfeei  ^staflnm^tHrtalgfatira     Fhoidfnibjr*  cUil^e  ot  Hailultoii,  nboUt 

(  AssBB.<*-%lieBe  p8tieiit,iliumbte|»  and  useful  animak,!  iia^e  latdljrbiOTeaied  in  nuliKi 
ben,  beSn^  now  k«t  by  n^  The 

asses^indiich  are  MKfbrtunaite  aJi  to^dbfani  audb  oomliirtaUe  sitUatioiif,  are,  iii^  gen^nd^ 
pf«i|terly  Miand^Atendedto,  imd  look  like !«n  improved  hteeA,  beitotf  remarlaibljr 
aocile  andintettigrot,^  Of  ftto  Aey  haVeifoeen-natfih  used  in  light  car^,  bj^  gardeiueffti; 
&ci  and  ate  found  i^tntaid^  nsefoU  .  Should  the  le^idbiitiire  lefrainfor  some  time 
longer  from  taxing  these  animab,  iand  pioperafteirtion  be  paid  to  the  i^ 
of  tne  breed,  they  'will  exdods  the  gallolviays^  and  bec6me  a  piineipal  <^lafl6  amtong  Hie 
quadrupeds  of  Britain. 

Cattle. — The  different  kinda  of  tetde  fared  in  this  eounty/aite  the  Shmt^hoiMd,' 
the  Devonshire,  the  Long-homed,  and  ihe  Wild  Catde; 

The  j^D^lf^oniM^'  irnid  ha^  ben  long  eBtdblidie^>oT«lr>  the  whtfle  munty ;  tke  other 


^  TKe  Alkp«inf>wnaht8  of  aiMMt-bomfd^asfeii/  bred  hf  diflaw^«urnveri  at  Niyrii^^  lv^l 

ptetlby  oomotldat  of  tbe  impioredflilft  <if!thi«  exoattBiit  bfs^ild*  .  The^  wm  i^U  M  .if^diliiagkterod.by  Jtfi^ 
Ttemtt  lUldid^  of  Ncnftk  gbieldsi  wli»  bb^ingljyF  mtnict^  4^  ]i«t  £bw  bUji9oka»  March  Sp,  IStS :~      ,. 

*'  •••      '  '•  *»  'Ctk.'qr.lb..        '•-  :,•*';     •      •«■       i         Cut  .  qr.- ftu  -  "^ 

—                    do.                do.          17     2  12           Tr_  .«»     ^^          .      j^          15     3     4' 

do.     ,    14     1,    0,        ^     -r  ^       do.       '         di).          14     16      ' 

do.       •  IS    fl  *1     •  :3   '*--  '^       '  da           '    tto.^*   '    id,  S-tO 

do. '.M  .i-t  ra  .,-6   '   ,.     /**••;  .     '.  -AL  •'-  .  •  ;dfi       ..|!i;>'^^I(|  ■  .' 

.da        .14'^    §      .         T /•  do-   '            do.     :\io    2  i§ '. 

;do,  ;,as  11^    •     ;::'  ._    do;         &:     to  S5«   : 

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da  12     1    0        '/-'-^i.^  » :X  '^  >  ''Idai/'f;,^**!  4d.r  '-mI#  r*  '«     ^ 

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«a  ^1  9  1«  -,  i^  ■:  dd.  "^  ^  db;^  la  a  ♦! 
da -'• -'ii  *2  M."  -.-'-i^'^  da,'  -.' .'.•  A>....  ifk  0:%s 
da      .  4i  1    I  -fr   .  .         dat  .  dr?.  41  2  2« 

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da          10 .  2  26 


4o* 


(•  f 


Mr  lUtdlA  «dili^. «.  thu  &rt.  OMBtMPirf  wm  AHwd  l^r  •  Mr,  JV.  JUv<m^>  Irtnghiurt ;  )«qd  the  laat  «jl  ]V«W 
tlaughtered  within  the  last  M^mdu.".  Tha<t>av(i.l>«>iri>tii  imJM«}Owto:thefei«  wiMteM.  •'     .,.' 
YOL.  I.  8  E 


GEKEKAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Ibmds  ate  fbund  only  in  the  hands  of  a  teM  faidiVkHiak,  iivhohdveuktroduoed  them 
Wi(^  a  IimdiBible  view  of  ^npaiing  theif  meiits  with  ithe  ertaMlAed  bratd  «f  the 
county.  They  differ  from  the  other  breeds,  in  the  shortness  of  their  homs^  and'  ha 
b^ing  trider  and  thicker  in  thehr  form,  consequently  feed  to  the  moiit  weight;  in 
ftfTording  liie  greatest  quawtit^tof  tsdlow  when  ntted ;-  in  having  very  thin  hsMS,  aad 
diudi  1^  hair  ujpon  them  lliail  any  other  breed  (thcT  Aldemeya  excepted) ;  but^fche 
most  esBCvitial  dirorence  consists  in  the  quantity  of  imUk  they  give  tbeyood  most  otlMr 
breeds.  Their  colour  is  mudi  varied,  bat  they  ia«  inortfly  an  agre^aUe  mixti^re  of 
i«d  and  white.  From:  thefi*  beihg  in^  maiiy  plaoea  eaUed  the  Dutdk  bteed^.  it  ia  pto^ 
teble  they  were  6riginidly  brougM  fit>m  Ae  contineht. 

The  kf^  horns  ate  now  ^totally  abandoned  by  every  breeder  in  the  county,  tiie  im* 
proved  breed  of  short  horns  having  proved  themselves  much  supaior. 
-  The  lye^brishire  breed,  so  well  fmed  for  thd  droughty  have  been  crossed  with  other 
breeds,  but  the  result  has. not  been  encouraging; 

Consiiderable  numbers  'of  the  Kyloe  breed  are  annually  introduced^  fottened^  and 
slaughtered  for  our  home-markets.  They  are  a  hardy,  industrious,  and  excellent 
bi^eed  of  cattle,  calculated  in  ^Very  respect  to  thrive  ori  a  cold  exjpocied  mcmfttainous 
country.  Their  beef,  though  not  lumdsome,  is  feie^grained,  well  flavoured,  and 
marbled.  The  black  ones  are  most  in  repute.  A  fcyloe  was  fed  and  killed  by  Mr. 
Spearman,  of  Kothley  Park,  in  this  county,  which  was  killed  22d  July,  1790,  and 
weighed  i^i  all  lOOst.  lOlb.  and  a  half:  The  Runtish  coarse  breed  are  sometimes  found 
on  flie  western  borders  of  the  county. 

'  The  Wild  Cattle  are  only  found  in  Chillingham  Park,  belonging  to  the  earl  of 
Taflkerville.  It  is  probable  they  are  the  only  remains  of  the  true  and  genuine  breed 
of  ^hat  sjtedes  of  cattle,  and  answer,  in  every  particular,  the  description  given  by 
Boethius^iof  those  animieds.  Therels  a  vague  tradition  that  they  were  originally 
brought  €tom  the  Highlands  of  Scotland.* 

Shbep:— In  this  county  there  are  three  distinct  breeds*— the  Cheviot  sheep^  the 
Heath  sheep,  and  the  Long-wooled  sheep. 

*  * 

Mr.  CuB^  says,  **  The  heaviest  and  largest  men  of  the  short^homed  breed,  when  properly  fed,  victual 
the  East-In^a  ships,  as  they  pR)duce  the  thidmt  beef,  whidi,  by  retaining  its  juices,  is  the  best  adapted  for 
sttch  Icmg  vc^ages.  Our  royal  navy  should  also  be  victualled  from  these ;  but  by  the  jobs  made  by  contrac- 
tors, and  other  abuses,  I  am  afraid  our  honest  tars  are  often  fed  with  beef  of  an  inferior  quality :  however, 
the  oflftl  ships  from  Niewcastle,  Shields,  Sunderland,  &c.  are  wholly  supplied  with  the  beef  of  these  yahiable 
anima1s.'"-^TrAilu«  oh  Live  Stock. 

*  ^The  late  Mr.  Bailey  has  giveh  the  following  curious  and  picturesque  description  of  this  singularmce  of 
anioiala:  ''Their  colour  is  invariably  white,  muzzle  black;  tibie  whole  of  the  inside  of  the  ear,  and  about 
one^hicd  of •  the  ontude  from  the  tip,  downwards,  red;  boms  white,  with  black  tips,  very  fine,  and  bent 
upwards;  Mme  of  the  bulls  h«ine  a  thin  upr^ht  mane,  about  an  inch  and  a  half,  or  two  inches  long:  the 
weight  of  the  oxen  i9  from  35  to  45  stone;  and  the  cows  from  25  to  35  stone,  the  four  quarters;  14lb.  to  the 
stone.    The  beef  is  finely  marbled,  and  of  excellent  flavour. 

"  From  the  nature  of  their  pasture,  and  the  frequent  agitation  they  are  put  into,  by  the  curiosity  of  strangers, 
it  eannot  be  expected  they  should  get  veijr  M;  yet  ^osix-yesri  old  cocen  are  gteenJly  very  good  beef;  from 
whence  it  may  be  fldtly  suppoded  that,  in  proper  sitttatioBs,  ihey  would  fted  well. 


l!K>inHUMB£IBXAND.  Ill 

l^ie  Ckenmt  skmp  are  hondeM;  Hk  ihow  abd  l^j^  in  gierikend,  white.  l%e'Aeil 
hreed$  have  a  fine  open  countenance^  witih'liVeijrprainiB^teyes;  body  long*  fora* 
quarters  wanting  depth  in  the  breast,  and  breadtin,  ooth  these  and  on  die  ohiiie;^  fttut 
dean  smalLibon^  legs,  and  thiil  pelts;  Two  thirds  cf  their  wool  is  fine,  a^  the  test 
ecMfise.  Th^  are  wed  only  upon  Jtibe  hSly  districts  in  the  nortiv-west  part  of  tiw 
fouhiy,  and  do  not  extend:nmdi  farther  south  than  Reed-wator.  A  Cheviot  sbeqp 
wfaen  &t|  weighs  fram  Ifl  to  18  poimds  a  quarter; 

The  best  kind  of  these  sheep  is  oertainly  a  very  haidy  and  vakiable  mouttHdn  ^^leep, 
where  the  pasture  cr  moetkf  g*eek  sward,  or  omtains  a  krg^  portion  of  that  kind  of 
herbage,  wtiich  is  the  case  witib  all  the  hiUs  around  Cheviot  where  these  ^heep  are 
bred;  for  as  to  l&e  mountain  of  Cheviot  itsd^  no  kind  of  she^  whatever  are  bred 
upon  it ;  and  we  find  it  an  univi^sal  practice  amongiM;  the  most  experic^iioed  sheep 
farmers,  to  depasture  the  heaih^ distrtets  wiA  old  sheep;  but  they  never  attenrfpt»to 
keep  a  breeding  flock  upon  thfam.  The  Spanish  and  South  Down  have  been  advised 
as  l^oper  crotses  for  this  sort  of .-sheefi.  t    > 

The  heath  sheep  have  large  spiral  hcMiis,  black /faces  and  legs,  a  fierce,  wildJooking 
eye,  and  shmt  nrm  carcases,  caveted  with  kng,  open,  coarse,  shM]^  wooL    The 

muttdn  of  tibis  bmed  is  excdlent  in  flavour.    They  areaii  exceeomgly  aoiive  and 

,1  .        .      > 

^At  ^  irat  .appeariiMse  of  sny  pmon  tfaqy  aet  off  at  ibU  9pmi,:axd  gdopcto  •  caomdaaMt  dtslnioe$ 
when  tbof  nMie  A  wfaod  fomtd,  md  cooie  boldly  up  agaun,  tostjpg  their  haidi>ia.  a  nwaaring  maaoer ;  on.* 
sudden  they  make  a  full  stop,  at  the  distance  of  forty  or  fifty  yards,  looking  wildly  at  the  obysct  of  their 
surprise;  but  upon  the  lesst  motion  beiiig  made,  thcrf  agpn  turn  roua4>  and  gallop  off  with  efual  spaed ; 
but  forming  a  shorter  circle,  and  returning  with  a  bolder  and  more  threatening  aspect^  they  .spproach  much 
nearer,  when  they  make  another  stand,  and  again  gallop  off.  This  they  do  several  times,  shortening  their 
distance,  and  advancing  nearer,  till  they  come  within  a  few  yards,  when  most  people  think  it  prudent  to 
leave  them. 

'^  The  mode  of  killing  them  was,  perhaps,  the  only  modem  remains  of  the  grandeur  of  ancient  hunting. 
On  notice  being  given  that  a  wild  bull  would  be  killed  upon  a  certain  day,  the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbour«» 
hood  came  in  great  numbers,  both  horse  and  foot :'  the  horsemen  rode  off  the  buU  from  the  rest  of  the  herd 
until  he  stood  at  bay,  when  a  marksman  dismounted  and  shot.  At  some  of  these  huntings,  twenty  or  thirty 
riiots  have  been  fired  before  he  was  subdued  i  on  such  occasions,  the  bleeding  victim  grew  desperately  furiooSj 
from  the  smarting  of  his  wounds,  and  the  shoots  of  savage  joy  that  were  echoing  ftom  every  aide.  From  the 
number  of  accidents  that  happened,  this  dangerous  mode  has  been  seldom  practised  of  late  years,  the  puvl(i- 
keeper  alone  generally  shooting  lliem  with  a  rifled' gun,  at  one  shot. 

^  When  the  oowd  calve,  they  hide  their  calves  for  a  week  or  ten  di^s,  in  some  sequestered  sknetioii,  and 
go  and  suckle  them  two  or  three  times  a  day.  If  any  person  come  near  the  calves,  they  dap  their  heads  dose 
to  the  ground,  and  lie  like  a  hare  in  form,  to  hide' themselves.  .This  is  a  proof  of  their  native  w&dness,  and 
is  corroborated  by  the  following  drcttnstance,  ftmt  liappened  to  the  Writer  of  this  narrative,  who  found  a 
hidden  calf,  two  days  <M,  tery  lean,  and  very  week:  on  stroking  itii  heiid,  it  got  up,  pawed  two  or  three 
times  like  an  old  bull,  bellowed  very  loud,  retired  a  ftw  steps,  and  bolted  at  ins  l^gs  with  all  its  fiwce;  it 
then  b^^  to  paw  again,  bellowed,  stepped  back,  and  bolted  as  before ;  but  knowing  its  intention,  and 
steppmg  aside,  it  missed  liim,  fdl,  and  was  so  very  weak  tbat  it  could  not  rise,  though  it  made  several  eflbrts; 
but  it  had  done  enough,  the  whole  herd  were  alarmed ;  and,  comingto  its  rescue,  obliged  him  to  retire;  for 
the  dams  will  suffer  no  person  to  touch  their  calves  without  attadung  tiiem  with  impetsens  ferodty. 

"  When  any  one  hafipens  to  be  wounded,  or  grown  weak  and  ftd>le  through  age  or  iidoiesB,  the  rest  of 
the  herd  set  upon  it,  and  gore  it  to  death.** 


lit  GENEBAl-  jaESCBUnnOH  OF 


bardy:  roce,  lold  ^eem  tibejbcfit  A^ptedU  of  aH  iyAen,  fo  lu^h  expoeedr  Am%  distiiebs ; 
suoh  aflf  w<  findth^m  in  poewsskm  ef.  heoe,  •  ^m  the  western  parte  of  the  cdunty  of 
DarhauAo  North  Tyne:.  .Tlwy.  weigh  fmm  IS  to  l€  polmds  a  quarter. 

The'  lQ»g^woolled  sheep,  whi(»  fonnierly  occupied:  the  lower  district  (tf  thk  eountf , 
wiere  calkd  ilf«(S«»  |»xAabljr  from  their  faces  bemg  eorered  with  a  imiiF  qf  wool,  due 
to  thdr  ^e6.>  These^  ibeiilg.  a  i  sloy^^feeding  tribe;,  have  given  way  to  the  Diddey 
breeds  wluch  were  first  introduced  imto  this  oouaty  in  the  year  1766,  by  McMn; 
Cuttfyf  and  by  thek  supeorior  merxt,  have  so  £sr  made  thur  way  against  every  pre- 
ju<ttee  and  opposition^  taat  there  is  new  a  difficulty  in  finding  a  flodc  that  is  not  mope 
or  less  pdated*  to  the  DisUey  blood« 

/Xlie  improved  breed  of  lonK-wooUed  sheep  aire  distingmshed  from  otlitr  long* 
wooUedkttids  fay  their  fine  lively  eyes,  dean  heaiii;  stinai^t  broad  flat  backs,  round 
bvrrel^like. booties,  veiy  fiiie  small  boncir^-  thiti  pelts;  and  that  singular  jNToperty  of 
making  fat  at  ail  early  lage^  peihafpsBoorethan^  any  thing  dse,  gities  thrai  a  supeti- 
ority  over  the  other  breeds  in  this  island.  Tbevweiffh  from  18  to  86  potuds  per 
quartmv  and  their  fleeoes  average  sevito  pounds  ana  a  ha&  eadi. 
^iGcOA!M.''^i^GiisakM  are  kept  in  onall  nnmbeiB  on  many  parts  of  the  Cheviot  hffis,  not 
tomuidi.as  an  object  of  profit;  but  the  shepherds,  assert,  that  the  sheep  flocks. ase 
healthier  where  a  few  goato  depasture.  This  probably  may  be  the  case,  as  it  is  well 
kn0wil  that  goats  eat  some  pltfits  with  impunity,  that  are  deacUy  poison  to  dther 
kinds  of  doaniestde-aniinals/  A  nmnber  of  «iats  are  kept  at  Rothbury,  and  <m  Aiii^ 
wiok  Moor. '      ■    ■ 

SwiNB. — ^The  Berkshire  pigs,  and  the  lar^e  white  breed,  ware  formerly  the  most 
prevalent  in  tins  county;  but  the  small  black  Chinese  breed  has  &i  a  great  m^asture 
supplanted  them,  especially  upon  the  large  farms ;  and  these  are  likely  to  give  %«f 
to  a  small  white  breed  lately  mtroduced,  remarkably  quiet,  inoffensive  animak ;  on 
which,  account  they  are  principally  preferred  to  the  Chinese  breed. 

Among  our  other  anmials  the  Shepherd\s  Jtk^  deserye;^  nbtice.  In  the  western 
parts  of  tills  county,  where  large  tracts  of  land  are  solely  appropriated  to  the  feeding 
of  sheep^  this  sagacious  animal  is.  of  the  utmost  importance.  With  the  assistance  ^ 
this  trusty  animal  one  shepherd  finds  it  easy  on ,  extejusive .  mopn^  to.controul  the 
iiaipyepjents  of ,ii](mie»9e  ;|U^^  , 

Hares  were  held  saqred  among  the  ancient  Britons ;  .but  the  .'moderns  hunt  ..them 
down  without  mercy.  Some  have  supposed  that  this  useful  and  innocent  race  oi 
anim^a  are  becomipg  scarce  in  Northumberland**    Habbits  are  found  in  considerable 

*  Iq  iUiiftcatioa.of  thia  ^i^bjject,  Mr.  Robert  Blakey,  aa  emin^  Fur|f^:iu  Marp^,  hM  o<HTinmni«ittd lh» 
foUqwing  «i;^oiui  partkulnrt.    Duri|i||^  wwtiir  ^  Avc!>^^>^"^bflr  of  li^i^e^ 


» > 


Colkcte4ili^l49t9eUl|;^    •    -/     -    ,    •     :  *« . 

1^(0..  Po2eii« 

** .,    in.  Alnwick    *«     ,^   .    -      /•  '.    4 

,300      ♦^ 

•  * 

*^     jnWooJkr      n        #        -        *;      • 

isa    ^ 

. .     «7*.   ,  j^  Pepriok  (fot  ii^  Northumb^laiui) 

500      ^ 

-T-      in  Hexham,  tc^foies      -        -        -«. 

SCO      '^ 

.  -^      in  ^ewculiie,  estimaled.M      ^       H 

j6Do.     m^.,  , 

• 

,100    *   r-^.    f 

• 

" 

2070  Do^cn. 

yOmTflUMBCRLANIX  119 

numbers  amoB^  tiie  «and4ifll8  aloii|f  the  coasf^  and  ^le  probably  ihie'iiio«t  eligible  stoek 
far  sudh  ^itutboodk 

The  Badger  is  frequent  in  jhe  recesses  of  our  woods,  and  by  the  banka  of  oiur 
rivers,  where  it  digs  its  hxAe^  and  forms  its  habitation  undernound.  The  active, 
fierce,  and  stinking  FaunmH  mak^  its  residence  in  stony  hillocks,  thickets,  and  furz, 
near  our  villages  and  farm-houses.  The  vivacious  and  graceful  Martin  is  another  of 
ouriTOod  inhdxljmts.  Sometimcia  the  Stoats  or  Ermine  Weaeel  is  seen  in  winter. 
EMgeJu^a  aae  Gonim(»L  Mr.  Sample,  Of  the  Angel  Inn,  Felton,  bad  one  in  the 
year  1799>  which  was  oomplctoty  doi»festieated.  It  «(;ted  ass  a  turnspit,  and  sDoswefed 
to  the  name  of  Tom. 

MoUs  in  some  parts  ace  eo^mrly  destroyed.  Btlt  under  certain  drcumstanees,  they 
ought  to  be  encourage  for  Uiey  are  demoeiatMbly  oi  greati  use  in  strong  dosdy  tex- 
tured soOs,  incumbent  on  uniformly  retentive  basis.  "  The  siUy,  but  ecHmncm  ob« 
jeetioEn,'  as^s  Mr.  MarshalU  ''to  nioMaiiii  g|Qadri)and»,  beeausid  they  ioeur  sodm  lal^ur 
in  spreading  their  hiliodbs,  is  tndy;  cidiculouA« .  Many  a  Spirited  fumer  will  catV3r: 
^Moideii  Skitti/^^*^' Virgin  Mfald'-^^^aomei  diaitaaam^  of'cowcse  at  some  coiisidejaHe 
exipenee,  to  spsead  over  his  grasa  holds,  'to  mwmftge  the  &i^r:  grass^;'  y€|t  tiiinJa 
much  of  the  trouble  of  spnading  aucfa  vduaUe  '  top^dremUg,'  when  placed  theie^ 
ready  to  his  hands !  But  the  act  of  raising  feerii  mold  tO'  the  sarfaee,  in  a  finely  puL 
veriscd  state,  is  onl^  a  ninor  benefit  <^:mdbes,  to  closely  textuured  retmtive  \gsa^ ; 
fteeing  Ihem  ih>m  sitperfluoiai  moistilie* ;  and  fomidhdng  .the:  i<K)ts.  ^  berhage^  ^  wjtb 
Hbb  raqidsite  'snppl^  m  air,  aoe  still'  mote. vftuaUtfadvantagesi**' 

The  O/Aar  inhafaUiis  thetbahks  oi  onu  Iai^/ri¥ers  and  lakes^  in  whi^h  it  mldte^  gveat 
destruction  among  the  moire  valuable.fishfiSi  Lb  tike-  warm  eutnww  mdBtba :  thei iiSS^ 
often  leaves  the  sea  to  sleep  upon  the.  sea-Boeks  at  the  Faim  Idtedst  ai^otb^;toekif 
along  the  coasts  wheie  thi^  a»;  ofifcehf  faiUed.    ;They  .are  sotnetimaSji  though  scidoflD^ 


*  I 


'Fmin  this  calculation^  tbe  avers^  number  of  Hare^  killed  every  winter  in  this  county,  {§  %%ffiW,  *  And 
admitting  that  only  ani  equal  number  i>e  killed  in  die  spring,  summer,  and  autumn,  the  numbet  annually 
killed  will  amount  to  nej^rly  f  0^000.  Mr.  B.  observes,  that  the  number  of  skins  purchased*  in  Morpelhi 
Wooler,  and  Alnwick  arepr^y  accurate.  ^  Perhaps  the  number  of  Hares  in  unpreserved  graunds  may  have 
decreased,  biitiheyWei^' never  more  numerous  in  preserved  manors.  •':.'.:. 

. 'ThefblWii^esliktikte^l#lii<&i»t6lera%  -c 

Rabbits  annually  killed  between  Shields  and  Cambois  «  500  Couple. 

From  Cambois  to  Hauxley       -  •  ISOO      — 

—  Hauxley  to  Alemouth     -  «  .  850      --« 

—  Alemouth  to  Belford       -  -  1600      -:• 
~    Belford  to  Berwick        *  «  5500     -»* 

..  9^50 

Thus  it  seems  that  the  wairens  on  our  coast  produce  nearly  20,000  Rabbits  every  year..  It  hat  bMi  ca)« 
culfited  that  a  single  pair  oif  Rabbits,  may  increase  in  the  course  of  four  years  to  the  amaying  number  .6f 
),274,840, 

*  Review  of  the  Reports,  &c.  p.  1^4* 

VOL,  1.  a  F 


114  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

seen  in  tlie  river  Tyne.  In  October,  1771,  a  laif^e  one  was  diotnear  the  King's 
Meadows ;  and  in  the  beginning  of  October,  1810,  another  was  pursued  and  &ed  at 
aboFve  the  bridge,  at  Newcastle.  •  , 

ORNITHOLOGY. 

« 

I 

Northumberland,  from  the  various  condition  of  its  knd,  and  its  extensive  sea^shofe, 
produces  an  abundant  variety  of  birds.  To  describe  all  the  native  and  migratory 
tribes  which  the  practicable  ornithologist  may  have  discovoied  in  this  coimty,  might 
prove  tedious  and  uninteresting  to  many  of  our  readers.  We  shall  therefcwe  venture 
to  enumerate  those  birds  onfy,  which,  from  their  rarity  or  peculiar  qualities,  are 
worthy  of  distinction,  adding  such  brief  remarics  as  may  oe  gratifying  to  the  most  in* 
curious  observer  of  nature.* 

The  Golden  Eagle  is  the  noblest  bird  that  inhabits  this  county.  On  the  highest 
a|id  stciepest  part  of  Cheviot  it  sometimes  has  its  aerie.  In  tlie  beginning  of  January, 
I7Jf5,  a  very  hyrge  one  was  shbt  near  Warkworth,  whidi  measured,  finom  point  to 
point  of  its  wings,  eleven  feet  and  a  quarter.  This  beautiful  bird  weighed  from  IS  to 
SO  pounds.  A  fine  eagle  was  shot  a  few  years  ago  at  ChiUingham,  and  is  now  in  the 
museum  of  the  Hon.  Mr.  Liddle,  at  Ravensworth  Castle. 

The  Olspiney  breeds  annually  among  die  reeds  near  Greenley  Laka  Thia  bird  is 
less  than  nte  ^le.  A  remaw^bly  me  specimen  was  shot  the  5th  of  Ma^,  1810,  at 
Prestwick  Carr,  in  the  act  of  devouring  a  perdi.  The  dothful  and  cowwcUy  Common 
Aflttorrf  builds  its  nest  in  trees  or  rocky  eminence.  Sir  John  Trevelyan,  Bart,  of 
WnDington,  shot  one  of  tiliem  while  devouring  its  prey.  The  Moor  Bmmard^  which 
is  a  Iivi»y,  bcSd,  and  adtive  bird,  is  frequent  upon  uie  extensive  moors  in  the  western 
district  of  the  county.  A  fine  bird  of^this  spedes  was  lately  cauffht  by  J<^  Silver- 
top,  Esq.  of  Muisteracres.  The  Fori-tailed  2Sfe,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  this  counly, 
the  Gleadj  is  common  in  the  west  and  north-west  parts,  where  they  usually  jom 
company,  and  soaring  beyond  the  reach  of  our  sight,  watch  their  prey,  upon  whidi 
they  descend  with  irresistihle  force. 

Naturalists  are  divided  in  opinion  whether  the  Ringtail  and  Hen  Harrier  consti- 
tute two  distinct  species.  Mr.  J.  Wingate,  jun.  from  repeated  and  accurate  observa* 
tion  has  ascertained,  that  the  Hen  Marrier  is  the  male^  and  the  Ringtail  the 
female. 

^  Mr.  John  Wingate,  Jun.  of  Newcastle,  has  liberally  communicated  much  valuable  information  on  this 
subject  Mr.  W.  is  justly  distinguished  for  his  extensive  knowledge  in  Omithologyy  and  his  inimitdl>le  skill 
in  preparing  specimens,  which  come  from  his  hand  with  all  the  beauty  and  vivacity  of  real  life.  Many  of 
the  curious  birds  mentioned  are  preserved  in  the  museum  of  P.  J.  Selby,  Esq.  of  Twisle  House,  who  is  now 
pjublishiijg  a  splendid  work  on  this  pleasing  department  of  natural  history.  Perhaps  his  collection  of  British 
birds  is  unequalled ;  and  his  residence  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Fam  isles,  is  peculiarly  fiivourable  for 
adding  other  scarce  varieties  of  aquatic  birds.  Many  rare  birds  found  in  Northumberland  are  also  in  the 
museum  at  Ravensworth  Castle,  belonging  to  the  Hon.  Mr.  Liddle.  A  few  particulars  have  been  obtained 
from  a  **  Supplement  to  the  History  i^  British  Birds,"  by  the  cdebrated  engraver  on  wood,  Mr.  Thomas 
Bewick,  and  which  has  been  lately  published* ' 


KOILTRUMI^IILAIIB.  115 


The  Kestrel  builds  in  rocks  and  hoflow  traes,  but  its  most  favourite  raeesses  is  in  the 
solitary  ruins  of  our  old  caslies  and  towers.  The  daring  Sparrow  Hawk;  the  littiLe, 
Imt  courageous  Merlin;  and  the  spirit^  Heihy^  all  breed  in  this  county,  and  are 
very  destructive  among  the  less  warlike  of  the  feathered  tribes.  The  Hobby  is  a  bird 
of  rassage,  and  is  very  scarce. 

The  Shart^ared  Owl^  which  Mr.  Pennant  supposes  to  be  a  native  of  some  other 
region,  breeds  in  Northumberland,  for  Mr.  X  Wingate  took  a  young  one  alive  in  a 
sheep  track  near  Smale's  Mouth,  North  Tyne,  on  the  SOth  July,  1803.  The  UtUe 
Owl  is  seldom  seen  in  Britain ;  but  one  was  shot  at  Widdrin^n,  in  January,  1818. 
The  White  Owl^  and  the  Tawmf  Owl^  or  Hewlet,  is  common  m  this  county,  especially 
the  latter  species,  which  frequents  our  woods,  where  it  breeds  in  a  hoUow  tree,  or  in 
the  cU  nest  of  a  crow  or  magpie.  Boys  oome  from  a  consideraUe  distance  to  the 
woods  near  Nunriding.  to  take  their  nests,  as  the  young  ones  bring  a  good  {nrice  when 
sent  down  to  the  ship-captains  at  Shields,  Who  use  them  oa  ship4xMard  instead  of  cats« 

The  beautiful,  but  rapacious  Great  Ash^fAntred  Shrike^  or  JButeker  JBird,  which 
the  Germans  caSl  the  ^tifffbealing  Angela  frequents  the  mountainous  wilds  of  this 
county.  The  Rediacked  Shrike  is  more  rare  than  the  former  species,  of  a  less  size^ 
but  similar  in  its  tnanners  and  habits.  The  crafty  JRaven,  so  famous  in  the  legends, 
of  superstition,  is  sometimes  found  in  the  holes  of  rocks.  The  ,Carrum  Grow  resem- 
bles the  Raven  in  its  habits,  colour,  and  external  appearance.  The  Hooded,  or  Boy^ 
eton  Crow,  a  bird  of  passage,  is  oft^i  found  on  our  sea^XMwts.  It  delists  in  sbdl- 
fish,  in  the  opening  or  whidi  it  is  very  dexterous.  It  takes  one  up  in  its  biU,  and 
flying  to  a  great  height,  lets  it  suddenly  fall  upon  the  rocks,  whereby  it  is  fractured, 
and  me  fish  exposed.  The  Book  is  very  numerous  in  Northumberland.  Some  years 
ago,  a  few  farmars  in  Glendale  Ward,  made  a  coDection  of  sixpence  a  plougl^  to  pay 
for  destroying  these  birds ;  but  intelligait  agriculturists  think  that  thdr  sa^viees  in 
devowring  swarms  of  destructive  insects,  amply  reoompaice  for  the  depredations  they 
occasionsdly  commit* 

The  Mtigpie,  Jay,  and  Jackdaw;  are  well  known  in  this  county.  The  elegant  Jay 
is  perhaps  the  only  British  bird  that  feeds  entirelv  on  vegetables.  The  Chatterer  is  a 
native  of  the  colder  regions  of  Europe^  and  rarely  visits  this  island,  but  several  have 
lately  been  taken  in  Northumberlana.  A  nude  and  female  of  this  beautiful  Inrd  were 
shot  near  Elswick,  in  the  begmning  of  February,  1810.  Thev  differ  materially  from 
others,  the  .waxen  appendages  being  very  long,  and  the  quiU  feathers  transversly  laid 
with  a  strong  bright  yellow.  A  pan*  of  these  birds  was  shot  near  Belford,  in  January, 
IS^S.  A  fine  specimen  of  that  rare  bird  the  Roller,  was  shot  near  Howick  a  sh<»rt 
time  ago. 

The  StarUng  is  common  on  our  sea-coasts.  The  beautiful  Rose-coloured  Starling 
is  a  rare  visitant  in  England.  A  male  was  shot  in  1817»  in  a  tan-yard  in  New- 
castle, and  another  male,  and  a  young  Inrd,  was  shot  at  North  Sunderland,  in 
the  month  of  July  of  the  same  year.    A  Brown  StarUng  was  shot  out  of  a  flofdk 

*  A  pair  of  Eooh  boilt  their  nert  on  the  spire  of  the  Exchange,  in  Newcaatk,  in  the  year  17SS.  The 
nesty  of  coarse^  was  turned  with  every  Tariation  of  the  wind,  and  its  inmates  were  exposed  to  all  the  noise 
and  confusion  of  the  populace  below.  They  however  continued  to  rebuild  their  habitatian  eveiy  year  in  this 
very  singular  situation,  untO  1793,  when  the  spire  was  taken  down. 


116  GENBRAL  DiSCEIPaaON  OF 

crossing  die  road  at  K^toii»  ki  the  montii  of  Stotmib^..  Tfafe  Bhlf^  Qmeh  and 
the  JSkiei  Chmel,  are  found  in  this  counl^^  the  MKOicfer  in  the  mouDtainaiis  wilds 
near  the  borders  of  Cumberiiand,  and  the  iktbtr  among  the  wood»  and  thickets  of 
the  eastern  cBstricts,  where  they  are  frequentlj  heard  warbling  miek>di(msly  in 
their  solitary  retreats.  J.  P.  Selby,  Esq.  im  two  fine  specimens  of  the  Ba^e^coloured 
Omd. 

The  ThroMiie  either  leaves  this  country  etitiiely  in  severe  vnnters,  or  retires  into  the 
most  thick  and  solitary  woods.  It  is  unri^^aUed  for  the  sweetness  and  variety  of  its 
song.  That  rare  biard,  the  Qolden  Tirueh^  has  been  observed  in  this  oounty.  A 
female  was  taken  in  the  latter  part  of  the  i^ring,  miieh  ifenU  i&  a  garden  at  Tyne^ 
month,  .         X'  . 

The  FHeldfope^  so  highly  esteemed  by  tlie  Rctaaan  epcorets  arriyes  on  omr  coast  at 
the  end  of  autumn*  A  variety  of  this  bird>  with^^^  a  whSbe  head  aiid  shoulders,  was 
shot  at  Denton  Bum  in  the  latter  pact  of  Ao-y^  1S09.'  Tht  Clicked  visits  m^eacfaF 
in  the  spring,  but  its  stay  is  v^ry  short^  Hie  note  of  this  remai^aUe  bird  is  w'eu 
known,  but  its  history  and  nature  still  rem&in  inobscmity.  The  Wryneekia.  a  inost 
elegant  and  beautiAal  Irird  of  passage,  which  af^pears  a  few  days  before  the  Cvckoo. 
It  mhabits  decayed  trees^  and  leads  a  very  solitary  and  tequestered  life. 

The  s^eiidid  Oreen  Whod^oier,  the  Great  JSfkMed  Woodpecker^  and  the  Leeser 
Spotted  yroodffeeker,  are  common  in  the  woods  neac  Hexham.  The  lattar  species  U 
calkd  by  thb  cbmmon  people  oi  Nortinimbctland^  Pkb-^htree^  also  MUtin^bm,  from 
its '  being  more^  loigA  and  no&y  brfore  rain.  The  NuOuddk.  iiihabits  some  «  our  woods 
where  it  leads  a  very  solitary  life 

The  Hoopoe  onfy  visits  Nortbumberland  oocasionally.  It  is  a  very  beautiful 
hard,  and  is  called  by  the  Tuyl^  the  Chaome^  or  the  Messenger,  from  the  resem^ 
Uance  its  splendid  crest  has  to  the'  plumes  worn  by  the  Chaouis^  w  l\irkish  cDurieis. 
By  the  vulgar  its  appeaanaice  is  generally  esteemed  the  feiferunndr  of  some  oalamityv 
A  very  fine  bird  of  this  species  was  shot  near  Whitley,  in  1809^  and  another  was 
lately  caught  alive  near  Twiisle  House. 

The  dimunitive  Creepe^f  breeds  on  the  banks  of  the  Wansbeck  and  Coquet.  The 
CroesSUi  only  visits  this  ooun^  occasionally.  In  the  year  1810,  many  flocks  of 
these  Inrds  w«^  ^een  abont  Heddon-on-tbe-Wall,  Kentoil,  Bltigdon,  &dc.;  aiid/the 
same  year  cme  was  taken  alive  upon. Newcastle  Mooi*,  ih  the  race^week.  A  pair  was- 
shot  in  the  plantation  netr  Twizle  House,  in  August^  1821. 

The  JUt^nch  is  an  inhabitant  of  Idns  county,  and  M  much  esteemed,  on  account  of 
its  docility  in  learning  a  variety  of  tunes.  One  of  thete  birds,  in  the  pfossessioil 
of  Mr,  J,  Win^te,  turned  entirely  white,  and  in  the  coxurse  of  twelve  months  it 
changed  to  a  brilliant  black,  and'  continued  so  until  it  ditfd. 

The  hardy  Snoiijofhhe'h  frequently  met  with  in  IXfortHunofbedandi  and  is  considered 
the  harbbigeit  -  of  severe  weather.  The  Monntatn^  Finch  sometimes  leaves  the  dreary 
and  snowy  mountains-  of  Laplaiid^  to  visit  this  island.  One  of  these  little  'strangers 
was  caught  a  few  years  ago  in  the  high  moory  grounds  above  Shotley-Kirk. 

The  §parr&iv  trme  is  munerous  in  Northumberland.  A  veiy  handsome  white  one 
was  shot  in  tJie  ndjrfibKJttrhpbd  of  Morpeth^  October  18,  1810,  by  Mr.  Noble,  of  that' 
place.    The  Pied  iPhgtml;  iiie '  Grey  W^  the  Tellow  Wagtail,  are  very 


NORTHUMBEtlLAlilD.  liT 

I 

■  » 

common  with  us^  on  the  shallow  mar^s  of  waters ;  the  latter  is  a  native  of  this 
county,  and  breeds  near  Bedfingtoh.' 

That  charming  little  son^rter,  the  Goldfinch^  breeds  near  Blagdon,  and  in  many 
other  parts  of  the  courity.  we  have  also  the!  lively  and  elegant  Chaffimeh — ^the  pretty 
Redjm^'^mdi  that  sweet  leader  of  -the  general  chorus  or  nature,  the  harh^  whidi 


<<  I  ,     ■       ■  Springs  up     ■  / 

^  Shrill  voic'd  and  loud,  the  messenger  of  mom ; 
**  Ere  yet  the  shadows  fly,  he,  mounted,  sings 
<^  Amid  the  dawning  clouds,  and  from  their  baiints 
**  Calls  up  the  tuneful  nations.^ 

The  solitacy  Twite,  or  MounUdn  Linfiet  is  sometimes  observed.  A  pah*  was  shot 
on  Callerton  Fell,  15th  June,  1821,  by  Mr.  John  Laws,  of  Ifeddon  Laws. 

That  artful  and  scarce  bird,  the  Grasshmper  Warbler ^  inhabits  this  county.  Mr. 
R.  R.  Wingate  succeeded,  after  much  difficulty,  in  June,  1815,  in  adding  the  egg 
of  this  bird  to  his. curious  collection.  The  Bock  Lark  lately  attempted  to  breed  near 
Bamburgh.  The  Siskin^  a  handsome  little  bird,  scarcely  inferior  to  the  Canary  (with 
which  it  will  breed)  in  song,  is  found  on  the  borders  of  the  Tyne.  The  Pied  Fly^ 
catcher  is  not  very  common  in  this  island^  A  pair  of  these  birds  were  shot  at  Benton 
twelve  years  ^o.  A  Flycatcher,  differing  in  some  degree  from  the  general  colour, 
was  shot  near  Reddon  Laws,  June,  1810,  by  Mr^  John  Laws. 

The  Warbler s.'-^We  have  a  variety  of  this  numerous  class,  both  native  and  migra- 
tory ;  but  the  kind  most  remarkable  for  the  variety  and  richness  of  its  colour,  and  the 
excellence  of  its  song,  is  the  Nightingcde.  One  of  these  enchanting  songsters  of  nature 
visited  the  woods  of  Jesmond,  near  Newcastle,  a  few  years  ago.  Crowds  of  people 
went  in  the  ev^:4ng  to  listen  to  its  brilUant  modulations.  It  was  afterwards  shot  by 
a  gentleman  a  few  miles  west  of  Newcastle.  Another  of  these  delightful  visitants 
has  since  visited  the  woods  on  the  roa4  side  at  Gosforth ;  and  one,  in  the  year  1818, 
remained  for  some  time  on  the  north  side  of  the  Leazes,  near  Newcastle.  . 
•  We  have  also  the  Grolden^Crested  Wren,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  least  of  all 
the  European  birds.  The  diminutive  and  sprightly  Titmouse  is  a  nativd  of  this 
county,  and  in  the  spring  may  he  observed  in  our  gardens,  actively  employed  in  de- 
stroying the  eggs  of  that  destructive  insect,  the  caterpillar.  The  shy  and  solitary 
Lee^er  White  Throat  is  sometimes  discovered  here.  Mr.  R,  R.  Wingate  shot  one 
upon  Newcastle  Town  Moor,  in  1815.  That  curious  bird  of  pass^ige,  the  NightrJar, 
visits  different  parts  of  Northumberland.  In  September,  1810i,  a  Nightjar  was 
shot  near  Coxlodge. 

Pigeodu.^^r^e  possess  a  great  variety  of  these  elegant  birds.  The  Carrier  Pigeons 
have,  from  the  r^notest  timess  been  used  as  couriers.  When  the  Fatamites  reigned 
in  Egypt  they  established  dove-cotes  at  proper  distances^  all  over  the  kingdom,  and 
these  aerial  posts  were  called  the  Angela  of  the  King,  Anacreon  conveyed  his  iUlet^ 
doux  to  his  DeautifulBathyUus  by  a  dove;  but  in  England  these  pretty  messengers 
were  formerly  employed  for  a  very  different  purpose,  being  let  loose  at  Tyburn  at  the 
moment  the  fatal  cart  was  drawn  away,  to  noti^  to  distant  friends  the  departure  of 
the  unhappy  criminal.  They  are  still  occasionally  used  to  convey  the  result  of  boxing- 
matches  m  the  country  to  the  impatient  deHeteuH  in  London,    One  of  these  birds  cai^ 


n^  GEIt^H^L  BEaCBIPTiON  OF 

pass  over  tlus  diataacei^  near  90  soles  ii|  the  qpaoe  of  ane  hour*  The  6itoc^  XK>9e» 
the  Ring  Dave^  and  the  Turtle  Dwe^  are  visitants  of  thJ6  oounfy.  Obq  of  the  laltter 
was  shoik  at  Pcestmek  Canr  in  the  jear  1806. 

A  fine  Tariiety  of  f^^  Bmgr  Phea$W9jf  is  sometiines  met  with  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Ahiwick^  wlutb^  ^y  weve  bvought  by  his  gsace  the  dyke  of  Nonthumberland. 
The  moors  about  WaUington,  Elsdon,  &c.  abound  with  those  valuable  and  beautiful 
birds.  Bed  Grouse.  The  late  Mr.  Feamey,  of  Neweastley  had  two  of  them,  which 
were  so  domesticated  that  thev  would  eat  from  the  hand^.  Portridges  are  well  known 
in  all  parts  of  the  coimky  ;  it  however,  desarves  notice,  that  a  whife  one  was  shot  some 
years  ago,  near  Ponteland. 

The  f^iffU  asmually  migrates  io  Africa.  One  of  these  heavy  lyid  bulky  birds  was 
shot  by  Johm.  Grahaw  Clarke,  Esg.  affioming  the  Newcastle  Town  Moor,  in  liie  year 
18Q9.  Ahotber  wa&  shot  near  Gosfortn,  the  ^eat  of  C*  J.  3Brandling,  Esq.  M.  P.  on 
the  9li^  9f  Jami^iy,  1821.  This  bird  must  have  beea  left  i|i  this  country  by  some 
accident  when  its  companion^  took  their  departure. 

T|iie  wellrknpw^  ay  of  the  Com  Crake  is  heard  from  about  the  middle  of  April 
until  the  en^'of  September,  after  which  it  skulks  about  the  bottom  of  thick  he<%es 
and  coverts^  which  has  induced  some  naturalists  to  concbide  that  it  leaves  this  island 
before  winter.  ,  But  Com  Crakes  haVe  been  found  in  many  parte  of  this  county  in 
the  latter  end  of  Decembec  and  the  be^nnmgo^  January,  at  which  time  they  are 
remarkabjl^  {a^  Ob^  was  taken  on  the  30t^  X).ecember,  1808,  in  a  field  of  turnips 
near  OB^ddpnK>n-the-WaIl^  which,  when  cu4^  up,  russeqibled  a  mass  c^  solid  fat  more 
t1i9fi  th<^  b(^y  of  a,  bird :  and  anoth^,,  tak^Q  near  Ponteland  the  latter  end  of  October, 
1810,  WW  ako  covered  with  fine  white  fat. 

That  very  rare  bird,  the  Lottie  Bustard^  was  lately  shot  near  Miiburri,  aJid  is  now 
ii>  thje  coUectiop  of  the  Hoq.  Mr.  Liddle.  That  scarce  bird,  the  Grey  Lapwing,  was 
lately  ^Qt  in.^ambroi\gbshire,  and  is  in  the  museum  at  Twizle  House.  The  noisy 
and  active  Pe^  Wtt  abounds  in  this  county ;  the  stupid  Dotterel  sometimes  appears 
near  Corbridge,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed ;  and  the  wandering  Biffg  Dotterel 
is  frequeutly  caught  on  the  s^si-coast.  A  Pratincole  has  only  been  lately  noticed  as  a 
Britisn  bird.  JVfi.  Bewick  has  given  an  engraving  of  .this  bird  from  a  specimen  in  the 
possession  of  Mr.  J,  Wingate,  and  which  was  shot  in  BambroughsMre. 

The  rocky  islands  which  ^e  scattered,  along  our  sea-shore,  our  inland  rills,  pools 
and  lakes,  and  bur  numeix)us  rivers,  are  all  frequented  by  various  kinds  of  aquatic 
birds ;  but  we  shall  only  mention  a  few  of  the  most  remarkable. 

Th^  Water  Crake  is  YQvy  scarce  in  this  county.  .  A  bird  of  this  species  refused  latdy 
to  rise  before  the  do^,  and  was  knocked  on  the  head  near  Prestwick  Cair.  The 
splendid  little  K^ing^ker  is  usually  seen  on  the  shady  banks  of  our  larger  rivers,  flut. 
teriqg  its  brilliant  wings  and  skimming  the  siuf ace  with  the  rapiditjr  of  an  airow.  The 
Wat&^  Ouxel  sometimes  breeds^  about  Bedlington  and  ^fewbiggin.  It  is  also  seen, 
though  rarely,  near  Chetlup  Spout. 

In  the  yeaf  1776,  a  Stork  was  shot  near  ChoUerford  Bridge.  The  melancholy,  silent, 
and  patient  Heron  frequents  the  waters  in  Glendale.  It  was  fi>rm(erly  ranked  among 
royal  game,  apd  protected  as  such  by  the  laws. 


One  of  the  haodsonie  birds  odlf^stke  Bittert^  was  skot  Mnle  time  ago,  imon  TSew* 
castk  Moor.  It  is  called  in  this  ooiiUI^  the  Mire^Jhum^ittom. its  sito^&r  load  note. 
A  fine  male  ))ird  of  the  Little  Bittern  necies  was  shot  the  lattar  end  of  M^,  I8I(H 
while  running  up  an  ash  tree  near  Blagacm,  the  seat  of  Sir  M.  W.  IticHey,  !Bart. 

•  The  CurieWi  9isxdi  Whmbr^^  partwutorly  the  fixrmeiv  is.  frequent  on  our  sea-coast  in 
winter,  and  on  the  mountainoua  heatks^-  in  the  west  of  the  county,  during  the  spring 
aoid  sdmmer  m<»ithfik  The  Woodcock  is  found  in  most  of  our  ^ns  from  October  to 
Jamiaiy,  and  is  highl|y  valued  fcb  the  deliciojos  flayour  of  its  flesh.  AWood&ocIfe 
nest  was  lately  found  near  Whitfield  HaU.  Both  the'  Commmi  Snipe  and  the  Jfudcoek 
breed  in  the  swamf^s.  and  maidies  of  Tindaia  In  September,  IfiSl,  a  Cinereoiie  God^ 
10^  was  killed  at  Otterburn,  ' 

A  fine  spedmi^i  of  the  elegant  and  beautiful*  Spotted  Redshank  was  shot  l^  Mr.  J; 
Bell,  of  Alemouth,  ii^  September,  1&I9;  and  another,  in  perfect  plumage  was  shot 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  IMkMryeth^  ift  the  same  year,  by  the  Rey.  F.  Eii^.  That 
elegant  little  bird  the  Coniinum»  SamMper^  is*  frec^uently  shot  in  this  bounty;  The 
Jjittle  GidUmUe  is  addom  seen  ivk  Northumberland.  The  late  Lieut  H.  F.  Gibson, 
cauffht  one  in  a  haggy  place  coyered  with  reedsi  and  rushes  nean  the  Tjme. 

Tne  SIpotted  San^iper  is  yery  scarce.  One  of  tbemiwas  some  yeara  aoo  diot  ah  tfad 
bleak  moors  aboy^  J^Uinghanl,  by  Mr.  J;  Wingaie:  That  rare  bird  the  JPurple 
Sandpiper 9  was  lately  shot  by  a  dumb  boy,  near  Bambrougfa  i  and  a  Bed^easted  Mkr^ 
ganger,  which  was  shot  on  the  same  coas^  are  both  ih  the  coUectioh  of  Jl  P.  Selby,  Esq. 

One  of  those  recluse  birds  called  the  Coot^.  built  her  nest  in  the  lake  at  Bdsay,  among 
the  rushes,  which  were  afterwards  loosened  by  the  wind^  and  of  course,  the  nest  floated 
upon  the  surface  of  the  water,  in  eyery  direction ;  notwithstanding  which,  the  female 
continued  to  sit  as  usual,  and  brought  out  her  young  upon  hermoyeable  habitation^ 
A  lyusky  Grebe  was  recently  killed  <m.  Gorforth  lake  ;  and  a  .Black  Ckm  Grebe  was 
shot  adjoining  the  mill,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Lea2es.  A  Great  Crested  Gh^be  was 
shot  in  December,  1821,  near  Ben  well: 

Th^  Dunlin  is  frequently  seen  about  Prestwick  Carr.  That  curious  bird  the  Pen^ 
guin,  and  the  singularly  formed  Puffin^  are  inhabitants  of  our  sea-coast;  and  the 
heayy  stupid  GuSlemet  breeds  annually  on  the  steep  cUfTs  of  the  Fam  Islands.  A 
bird  of  this  genus  was  lately  caught  aliye  at  Tynemouth«  The' S^nolted  GtmSemet^  was 
lately  shot  at  the  Fam  Isles.  Tne  Rey.  H.  Coates,  has  a  fine  Black  GuUlemet^  diot 
qn  our  coast 

The  Blachihroated  Diver  is  a.  natiye  of  the  arctic  regions,  and  but  rarely  visits 
England.  A  bird,  supposed  to  be  of  this  species,  was  ^me  years  ago  caught  in  a  pool 
near  Dukesfield,  by  mr.  Thomas  Crawhall.  In  the  month  of  January,  1820,  during  a 
severe  frost,  three  birds,  of  the  Lough  Diver  species,  were  shot  on  the  river  Tyne,, 
Several  varieties  of  the  Tem^  or  Sea-SwaUows,  haye  been  shot  on  the  Fam  Isles,  and 
the  neighbouring  coast.  The  Roseate  Tem^  is  a  peculiarly  elegant  bird,  and  is  some- 
times lolled  on  the  Fam  Isles,    A  fine  Black  Tern  was  lately  shot  near  Prestwick. 

Sey^al  varieties  of  the  numerous  tribe  of  GuUs  breed  on  the  rocky  difTs  upon  our 
coast ;  but  the  Blackheaded  Gtdl  frequents  Pallinsbum  and.  Prestwick  Carr.  In 
Ma}r,  1810,  a  pair  of  delicate  looking  birds,  belonging  to  thc^  Brfiwnheaded  Gull 
species,  were  shot  at  the  latter  place.    About  the  same  timej  the  Bev.  1^,  Coates^  vicar 


180  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

of  Bedlington»  shot  a  large  Wagel^  or  Cfreat  Grey  Gull^  on  Cresswell  rocks.  Tliis 
ffendefman  also  shot  a  fine  KUiiwake^  at  Newhigein,  in  April,  1810.  The  Sl&rmf/ 
Petrel  was  lately  caught  near  a  pit,  at  BenwdQ.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been 
attracted  by  the  nght  at  the  mouth  of  the  shaft. 

The  Goosander,  one  of  those  natives  of  the  northern  wilds,  was  shot  near  Blyth, 
in  December,  1809-  It  is  very  seldom  found  on  our  coasts.  The  Buffy  and  the 
BefBve,  were  about  four  years  aoo  unfortunately^  destroyed  while  Inreedinff  at  Prestwiek 
Carr.  Had  they  not  been  mofested,  this  species  mi^t  probably  have  been  added  to 
the  native  birds  of  Northumberland. 

Of  all  the  various  fkmilies  of  seaibwl  which  amiualty  accompany  the  finny  tribes 
from  the  frozen  zone,  those  of  the  Anas  genus  form  the  most  oonsideraUe.  The 
Eider  JDudk  is  among  Ae  most  valuable.  As  it  seems  to  have  a  predilection  for  the 
monastic  retreat  of  the  Northumbrian  saint,  it  is  also  called  St.  Cuthberts  Duck.  The 
nest  of.  this  bird  is  lined  with  its  own  downy  plumage,  and  its  eggs  are  lar^  and 
well-flavoured.  The^Scoter  sometiihes  appears  on  our  coasts.  f\pm  its  fishy  flavour 
the  Roman  .Catholic^  are  allowed  to  eat  this  bird  on  fast-days  and  in  Lent.  One  of 
these  searfowl  was  shot  in  1821,  by  John  Davidson,  Esq.  of  Newcastle,  near  Blenkinsop 
Castle,  above  40  miles  from  the  sea. 

A  fine  LongUMed  Dud,  and  a  Scaup  JJuei,  were  shot  ne»  BambrouKh,  in  March, 
18SS ;  aad  a  JHntailed  JDuci^  was  lately  shot  near  Prestwiek  Can*.  They  are  all  in 
the  museum  at  Twizle  House.  Three  of  those  very  rare  birds,  the  Tufted  Duck^ 
was  shot  in  July,  1821,  near  Capheaton,  the  seat  of  Sir  J.  E.  Swinbum. 

One  of  those  shy,  wild,  solitary  birds,*  the  Shoveler^  was  lately  shot  at  Prestwiek. 
William  Losh,  Esq.  Point  Pleasant,  near  Newcastle,  has  had  a  breed  of  the  Musk 
Duck  for  several  years. 

The  Sheldrake,  the  Golden  Eye,  and  the  Barnacle,  of  which  so  many  ridiculous 
stories  are  told,  are  visitants  of  our  coast.  Wild  Geese,  in  their  flight  to  the  Orkneys, 
sometimes  ref^sh  themselves  for  a  few  days  at  Prestwiek  Carr,  and  on  the  haughs  of 
the  Till,  near  Wooller ;  and  in  severe  weather  the  stately  Swan  has  been  known  to 
seek  refuge  at  the  waters  of  the  Till  and  Tweed.  A  Wild  Swan  was  shot  a  few 
years  ago,  by  Mr.  George  Bdl,  jun.  at  Prestwiek,  and  is  now  in  the  museum  at 
Twizle  House.  In  this  valuable  collection  there  are  also  a  Canada  Goose,  and  a 
Ldn^gkmg  Goose,  whkh  were  both  shot  on  our  coast. 

The  stem,  keen,  and  greedy  Corvorant*  breeds  in  the  projecting  cliffs  of  the  Fam 
Islands,  upon  which  these  biros  are  seen  dozing  aft^  one  of  their  customary  surfeits, 

*  The  late  Mr.  Henry  Debord*  of  North  Blyth,  some  time  ago,  brought  two  young  eorvonnts  ftom  the  Fam 
Ishnds,  which  he  succeeded  in  domesticating.  They  soon  learned  to  fish  for  themselves,  and,  when  satisfied, 
would  amuse  themselves  in  quitting  and  retaking  their  prey.  They  sometimes  remained  for  a  whole  day  on 
board  of  those  ships  where  they  were  kindly  treated,  and,  when  they  sailed,  would  accompany  their  friends  ta 
sea  a  few  miles.  These  birds  were  very  familiar,  but  would  not  submit  to  be  teazed.  When  shot  at,  ihey  always 
flew  to  the  first  persop  they  saw  belonging  their  owner's  family  for.protection.  Mr.  D.  pain^  their  heads 
white^  in  order  to  distinguish  them  from  the  wild  ones,  wiUi  whom  they  frequently  associated.  Notwith« 
standing  this  precaution,  they  were  successively  shot  by  some  idle  persons,  incapable  of  appreciating  the  value  of 
19  ^i^nous  an  experiment  oji  tliis  sob'tary  species,  which  the  ingenious  Chinese  have  rendered  so  useful,. 


KOKTHtJMB£IlLANI>.  181 

1* he  iS^ogi  "wiAx^  resettibleA  the  CMrt^rtMt  in  (^anrcter,  iddnncfs,  «nA  hubit^  also 
lireecb  111  tibe  kknds  dA  our  iXMsIL 

fi<^R»ie  doHifig  tbk;  luTtkle,  it  desares  iiotice>  tliat  ^  Giomf  Ilis  nms  lately  shot 
A  Rotlikuy.  ThiA  Aon^  ^iM  is  now  in  the  spl^idid  museam  at  Twizle  house.  It 
is  befi^ed  to  be  the  istiLy  biid  of  the  kind  ever  shot  in  Bngldnd. 

PouLTKY, — Fowls  that  are  included  under  this  denomination  are  very  numefioM ; 
and  die  markets  in  Northumberhnd  are  wt^  supplied  with  ft>wls  and  eggs.  T^heys 
do  not  thrive  weU  in  our  cold  and  wet  cKmate.  OeeH  sxt  reared  hi  grMt  numbei« ; 
though  fhnners  who  cannot  gra^  them  on  a  gTocn  common,  oofisider  them  0s  v«ty 
unprofitable  stock.  JDuck^  and  Htfi^  are  kept  whevtrrer  it  ean  be  Miiveniimdy  done, 
as  the  profits  of  the  poultry  are  gen^:aliy  approbated  to  tl^  use  c^  the  female  part 
of  the  family. 

ICHTH0L06Y. 

The  plan  of  this  work  will  not  admit  of  a  minute  description  and  sdeaiitific  arrangOi^ 
ment  dP  the  numerous  tribes  of  Ftttt  which  ft^iie^t  otu*  sh<»«s»  or  abound  in  ^ur 
inland  wat€ft*s.  It  is,  however,  necessary,  to  notice  the  iMost  uiieftd  aiid  singukir 
kinds. 

WJMes  al:e  rare  in  our  seas.  About  T6  ymrs  1^  a  v^  large  one  was  found  <dead 
at  sea»  and  towed  on  sh^e  by  the  fishcnnen  tslt  Creis^weQ ;  and  twenty  years  al^^ 
wards  a  ^etmaeeti  whale  ciOne  <m  ah^t^  «ft  Hauxley,  near  Warkwotth.  About  23 
years  ago  a  large  one  was  towM  on  shtM  ne»  Newton  by  the  8ea;  «nd  the  iblloWbig 
vear  another,  of  a  smaller  size,  was  thrown  aislhore  near  Ilowick  Bum  Moutli.  Th^ 
lai^  instance  of  this  kind  is  that  of  one  which  was  cast  upon  the  rodks  at  Tynfemouth, 
some  years  ago.    Several  of  the  kind  dEQled  FitiMti  have  ktelv  a^pewed  on  our  ooast 

Tl»e  P^^9e^  is  frequent  uhiler  Ihe  proincrtrtories  and  in  the  deep  bays,  upon  thfe 
06»«oibM  ;  many  of  them  sporting  sottYet&nes  On  thfe  surfa!t*e  Df  the  Waves,  roUti^  and 
tumbling  like  a  herd  of  «wine.  Hence  It  is  genwaHy  called  <"  A  Sea  Swine.'*  It» 
stoucture  on  Assertion,  appears  Vety  thudi  like  that  of  quadruped.  Olir  anosstors 
considered  the  Porpesse  as  very  delicate  food,  and  it  was  a  favourite  dish  hi  fi)t«A4»* 
times  at  the  titles  of  the  jgtieat.  In  the  reign  of  queen  Elizabeth,  a  l^orpesse  formed 
part  of  a  royal  feast, 

The  &Mmp9ik  is  somettmes  t^bsi^H^yon  the  c6a!ft,  Siirty*three  of  tihem  ttane  on 
ih<mat  Shorestonei  I^Mween  Banf^urgh  Castile  «nd  North  Sunderland,  in  Jtil^,  1794, 
about  rsMftk ;  sixty  ^  which  ir^e  between  ftyurteen  and  nineteen  SBet  kfing,  and  ^ 
other  three  about  eight  feet.  They  were  all  alive  when  they  came  on  shore,  and  made 
a  hid6dus  noise,  but  wet^  lioott  kfflfed  by  the  countty  people.  The  same  kind  of  noise 
was  heard  hi  the  sea  the  night  hwore  by  the  shepherds  in  the  fieh!$,  when  it  fe  #ap- 
posed  ^^  Were  sensible  of  theb-. distress  in  shoal.\vater. 

A  remarkable  Shark  was  taken  in  a  salmon  net  at  the  estuary  of  t|ie  Tweed,  a  IMte 
above  the  Iddge,  in  SqpteDftber^  VJSfJ*  :]/t  wa^siis:  feet  long,  and  of  a^  greenish  colpur ; 
the  mouth  armed  with  teeth,  lar^, .  an4  ft^rmidafale  It  is  ^uppQsed  to  have  folibwe4 
the  Bast  Indip.  flfeiet  to.  EdinWgh  Frith,,  and  to  have  djireciiea  ita  course  southwards, 
}n  forward ai^ tipgw pwnrai* after tl^  ;>    :    : 

vqIm  I.— (6)  *  8  H 


Ui  GENSXiAJL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

The  Angel  FM  is  of  a  tarible  aspect,  and  a  most  singular  fonn.  One  of  thitf 
spedes  was  found  alive  on  the  shore  near  Cresswell,  deserted  by  the  tide,  in  the  year 
1768.  It  was  four  feet  and  a  half  long,  and  appears  to  have  been  the  iS^rica/if^  49^^ 
of  Linneas.  Dr..  Hevsham  describes  a  male  and  a  female  of  this  species  that  were 
taken  at  St  Bees  in  the  year  1793.  They  were  dried,  {nreserved,  and  exhibited  as  a 
show. 

The  LunM  FM,  or  Sea  Owl,  is  frequent  on  the  coast,  especially  at  Ciesswell  and 
Holy  Isbnct  It  is  a  well-tasted  fish,  and  of  a  beautiful  colour ;  but  its  figure  is  ex- 
tronely  dumsy.  The  W6(fFish  is  sometimes  taken  by  the  fishermen  of  Holy  Island. 
It  is  a  singular  made  fish,  of  a  fiax»  aspect,  of  a  bold  voradous  disposition,  and  with 
its  frightful  teeth  devours  its  prey  in  an  instant 

The  Lamprey  Eel  is  frequently  taken  near  the  mouth  of  our  large  rivers.  The 
Sand  Eel  is  taken  in  abundmce  m  the  sea-sands ;  the  largest  at  BucQe  and  Craster. 

Boih  Skate  and  Thamback  are  'plentiful  on  our.  ooasts.  The  voimg  Th(»mbacks, 
called  Maidsy  are  most  esteemed*  The  Sturgeon  has  sometimes  been  taken  near  the 
estuary  of  the  T  vne. 

Incredible  multitudes  of  Cod  are  taken  in  our  seas,  and  furnish  a  grateful  rarast  to 
our  labouring  poor.*  The  Ling^  the  Haddock^  and  several  varieties  of  the  l^hnOng^ 
are  also  plentiiul  on  our  coasts,  particularly  the  two  former. 

The  Sole^  the  Plake,  the  Flounder^  and  the  Turbot^  abounds  both  on  the  coast  and 
at  the  mouths  of  our  large  rivers.    The  HclSmt  is  sometimes  taken  in  our  seas. 

The  BaMe,  a  firm,  well-tasted  fish,  resembling  salmon,  has  been  taken  near  Cress- 
well,  but  it  is  very  scarce.  That  beautiful  and  admired  fish  the  Mackerel^  is  some- 
times, but  not  often,  met  with  near  our  coasts. 

The  Gar  Fisk. — ^This  admired  fish  is  sometimes  taken  near  Budle.  Its  retirem^it 
is  in  ihe  sands  at  ebb  tides.  On  their  reflux  it  swims  about  with  great  alertness,  re- 
galing itself  not  only  with  the  sweets  of  liberty,  but  with  food.  The  flesh  is  ex* 
tremdy  white,  and  of  a  ddicate  taste  like  the  Madcerd's.  The  bones  are  greoi* 
Hence  it  is  called  by  our  fishermen  the  Grreen  Bane.  The  Herring  frequently  pass 
our  seas  in  prodigious  and  resplendid  columns,  and  numerous  cargoes  of  them  are 
brought  to  marketf . 

The  Salman  is  the  most  valuable  of  omr  firesh*water  fishes.  It  is  finequent  in  the 
Aln,  Coquet,  and  Tyne,  but  the  Tweed  Salmon  has  the  preference.  Salmon  was 
formaly  so  plentiful  in  the  Tyne,  that  apprentices  covenanted  in  their  indentures 
not  to  be  fed  with  it  more  than  twice  a  week.  In  1775,  it  sold  at  Id  and  lyi.  a 
pound  in  Newcastle.    At  Newbum,  in  1761,  two  hun^^  and  sixty  salnum  were 

*  The fecoodity  offish  is  astonuhing.  Pelit  found  S4A,IAA  eggs  in  a  caqi;  and  Lewenhoedk  estimated 
the  eggs  of  a  cod  at.9,3S4,000.  Harmer  has  investigated  diis  subject  with  |;reat  care  and  accuracy.  Part  of 
the  result  of  his  researches  are  as  follows :— A  cod  fish  roe  S,686j60  eggs ;  a  carp  101»200  ;  a  herriiig  SStfiQS; 
a  maekeral  454,961 ;  a  perch  %^,S%S ;  a  sole  100,362 ;  and  a  tench  383,252. 

t  In  Apiil,  1794,  Mr  Ralph  Beilby  presented  to  the  Literary  end  Phflosopfaical  Society  of  Newcastle,  a 
drawing  and  description  of  a  supposed  non-descript  fish,  taken  up  dead  by  the  fishermen  of  Newbiggin.  It 
was  afterwards  sent  to  Dr.  Smith,  president  of  the  Linnean  Society,  wlio  supposed  it  to  be  of  the  same  species 
with  one  shortly  before  taken  in  the  CSiannel,  and  oaUed  by  tfae'fisharaien  lie  King  (^Herrings. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  12» 

caught  at  a  draught ;  and,  in  1775,  two.  hundred  and  rixty-five  at  a  draught,  at  the 
Low-Li^ts,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river*.  Of  late  years  they  have  been  very 
scarce.  Some  attribute  their  decrease  to  the  manufactories  and  cmft  upon  the  river ; 
but  the  cause  may  be  more  satisfactorily  traced  to  the  lock  at  Bywell,  and  to  the  Win* 
laton  mills,  which  prevent  them  passing  up  the  shallow  streams  in  the  breeding  sea* 
son.  ^ 

The  Salmon  Trout  abounds  in  all  our  rivers  &equ»ited  by  salmon.  The  WhUUng 
Trout  is  taken  in  the  Till  and  Tweed  from  ten  to  twenty  inches  long.  It  is  the  most 
admired  of  all  the  trout  species.  Other  varieties  of  the  trout  kind  is  taken  in  our 
rivulets  and  waters.  The  best  Comnum  Trout  is  found  in  our  alpine  rivulets.  Ex- 
cellent red  trout  are  found  in  the  Pont 

The  little  beautiful  Smelt  is  Ai|g|it  in  the  Tyne,  and  in  our  other  rivers  near 
the  sea,  but  not  plentifully .%  The^S%^%,  or  Dare,  oar  Dace,  is  plentiful  in  the  Tyne. 
They  are  considered  to  be  in  ^season  from  about  May  till  August  Boach  are  found 
in  some  of  our  lakes  and  fish  ponds,  where  they  attain  a  large  size.  Fine,  bright, 
well-tasted  EelSBie  found  in  the  stoney  channel  of  some  of  our  rivers.  The  vora- 
cious Pike  is  often  taken  in  the  North  Tyne^  the  Blyth,  and  in  Frestwick  Carr. 
They  are  also  taken  in  some  other  lakes  and  rivers.    The  Tyne  contains  a  numerous 

variety  of  J^&rf  JF'wAt- 

We  possess  a  great  variety  of  the  Ceustapeous  and  Testaceous  Fishes  ;  ci 
these  the  most  valuable  is  the  Lobster.  This  extraordinary  fish  was  formally  so  abim- 
dant,  that  the  annual  export  of  those  taken  between  Newbiggen  and  Newton  by  the 
Sea,  amounted  to  from  £l200  to  £1500,  exdusive  of  such  as  were  taken  near  Holy 
Island.  Many  varieties  of  the  Crab  are  taken  in  creat  abundance  on  our  coast.  The 
Cockle  is  also  plentiful  l^ose  which  are  got  in  tine  vicinity  of  Budle  are  the  largest 
and  best  tasted.  The  Sea  Mused  ^Xao  abounds  at  Budle,  and  in  many  other  places. 
The  fishermen  use  it  for  bait  Oysters^  pi  an  excellent  quality,  sometimes  occur 
among  our  northern  sea  rocks. 

We  have  a  great  variety  of  animals  belonging  to  the  dass  of  Zoophytes,  of  which 
the  most  rare  and  remarkable  species  is  the  Officinal  Cuttle,  which  when  in  danger,, 
darkens  the  water  by  spurting  forth  a  great  quantil^y  of  an  inky-coloured  liquor. 

The  beautifully  coloured  MiUble  Eadnus  is  freqjuentiy  taken  at  Newton  by  the 
Sea.  This  multivalve  shell-fish  was  andentiy  a  very  favourite  dish  at  the  tables  of 
the  gpreat.  They  were  the  first  dish  in  the  famous  supper  of  Lentulus,  when  he  was 
made  priest  of  Mars.  The  Cordated  Echinus  abounds  on  the  coast  near  Alemouth 
and  Holy  Island,  where  great  numbers  of  empty  shells  are  brought  on  shore  by  the 
tides  in  tempestuous  weather.  The  Pearl  Mya^  which  is  foimd  in  the  TweeJ^  the 
Aln,  and  North  and  South  Tyne,  deserves  distinction  among  our  bivalve  shells.    Of 


*  Brand's  Hist  of  Newcastle,  voL  iL  p.  32,  S3* 

t-Flat  Fish  are  generally  considered  a  sea*fish;  but  Mr.  W.  A.  Biitchdl  says,  **  I  have  proved  the  con* 
trary^  for  I  have  them  living  in  a  small  pond  at  the  foot  of  the  garden,  and  I  know  they  axe  breeding,  by 
having  caught  one  with  its  tail  covered  with  ^wn." 


Ift4  GEKEHAI.  BESCRIPTIOK,  &c. 

UTiivulve  shells  the  WkeBk  is  tiie  most  nnmerous  and  useAil.  The  Mcudl  purple  Mbawti 
yielding  a  purple  mnies,  is  id  great  abundatioe  atnon^  the  sea  focks.  Tne  British 
kdies  andently  ma^ed  their  linen  wit^  the  purple  juioe  ftmnd  in  tUs  &lh.  Our  nor- 
thern hist<»iiM,  Bede,  mentkms  it,  in  wcttds  that  excess  its  beautjr  and  duration. 
^  There  Bf^,'*  says  he,  ^  on  the  EngKsh  shores  an  abundance  cf  the  CothUst  which 
yield  a  scarlet  dye.  Its  beautiful  tinge  neither  fades  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  nor  by 
the  weathtf,  but  (tre  older  it  is,  the  more  rich  and  elegant.** 

ENTYMOLOGY.  &c. 

The  amazing  number,  varie^,  and  sin^Iaribr,  of  our  /M^efr,  offer  an  interesting 
field  for  thb  researdies  of  the  Kntymolwist.  The  race  of  SeptUei  is  also  great,  but  a 
few  <mly  can  be  noticed^  distinguished  &  tiidr  oeatc^,  misdiievousness)  or  taiity. 

The  TiTadous  Fipgr  is  scmietimes  obser^Nsd,  under  nedges,  at  the  roots  oi  trees,  and 
among  roeks  on  warm  heaths  \  but  they  are  not  m  numerous  as  in  dry  chalky  eoiin^ 
tries.  Oocasionallir  the  harmless  BlSnH  fPi^rm  ^ptesmts  its  fbimidal^  as^pecft  in  our 
warm  pastures  ma  gardens.  The  changeable  and  transparent  Water  Lm&rd  is  not 
unc(Hnm<m  in  ponds  and  cBtdieii.  But  napj^y  Mir  country  does  not  abound  wildi 
objects  that  are  either  formidable  or  loathsome,  to  the  imagination. 

Bees  are  prindpally  kept  in  the  littie  gardens  of  labouring  people,  who  are  em- 
btted  wftii  the  true  spirit  of  liidusbry.  But  thetie  ane  many  snuations  w^  ada|]^ 
for  1^  residence  of  bees,  where  a  inngle  Mall  cannot  be  observed.  Colonies  of  t^t 
ingenious  and  formidaUe  insect  the  Hornet  are  sometimes  discovered ;  and  in  stun^ 
mer  the  mischievous  Wtmp.  We  have  gfeat  taHeties  of  Die  BeeUe  and  Spidm-  kinds, 
which  it  would  be  tedious  to  enumerate.  Swaims  of  the  elegant  and  beautiful  Jfivfr 
kifii^  chec?  our  walks,  and  comptsnisate  hi  sottfe  degree  for  the  devastaHoiis  thejr 
coOimit  %n  theiir  it^aterplffiyr  stbtfe  in  our  gardens.  Om*  rkh  meadows  during  the  simw 
mer  months  are  enliven^  by  the  brave  and  mttMcal  OrdMlkoppet  s  snd  tilie  m«ry 

Cricket  i$  still  heard  chirruping  in  the  cMmney  of  old  fiirm-houseS)  where  thcy  are 
gmersSy  prMe^^edJbr  the  ^iAe  ^geod  huek.  The  poor  in  this  eounty,  where  ekanli. 
mm  is  neglected,  sufibr  severdiy  i^om  the  (lersecutionB  of  tlie  nausedns  J^. 

In  this  eonn^  €be  IV^and  other  noitious  animals  have  be«n  either  exterminated 
M^teduced  \  but  the  imm  tribes  defy  the  assiduity  of  man.  and  are  too  t^ten  unweU 
dome  hrtraders  trpoh  ihe  fttiits  Of  humaki  industry.    Birt  yK>ugh  the  ^idduei^  of  ^ur* 

£rdens  ttid  fi^ds  at^  sometimes  il^unsd  by  swamis  of  inseett,  theh*  araioyttioe  and 
vastations  are  not  half  so  terrible  as  in  warm^  moist  ooiinMes.  This  refieotk*i  eons* 
^fibutts  to  leconcile  ui  to  oti»  mII  diinate,  and  to  imsc  wi^out  riegret  of  t1^  grent 
Ibrtillty  of  ti^rtd  lawte. 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION 


OF  THE 


COUNTY  OF  NPRTHUMBERLAND. 


PART  11. 


ROADS. 

AVING  given  a  brief  sketch  of  the  natural  i^oduetions  of  Nof- 
thumberkoid,  it  remains  to  describe  the  improvements  effected  by 
the  skill  and  industry  of  its  inhabitants.  One  of  the  first  and 
most  imp<»*tant  facilities  required  in  civilized  society,  is  the  for- 
mation of  good  roads ;  btit  our  old  road-makers  have  not  displayed 
much  science  or  judgment.  Our  turnpikes  are  evidently  very 
defective,  both  as  to  their  direction  and  inclination.  They  are 
frequently  carried  over  hills  which  might  be  avoided ;  the  cross  sections  and  draina^ 
are  imudidously  formed ;  the  stones  are  still  broken  too  large ;  and  heaps  of  djrt 
are  onen  suffered  to  encumber  tfie  road  sides. 

In  the  Agricultural  View  of  Northmnberland  it  is  observed,  that  *'  one  neat  ob» 
jection  to  some  of  these  roads  is  the  many  steep  banks  they  are  disgraced  witn ;  some 
of  the  worst  mi^ht  have  been  avoided ;  but  it  seems  the  original  setters  out  of  these 
roads  had  a  predilection  for  climbing  and  descendii^  steep  banks.  This  is  notorious 
on  both  the. roads  upon  Rimside  Moor,  without  even  the  plea  of  being  nearer,  as  the 
leveller  road  would  have  been  nearer,  traveled  in  much  less  time,  and  with  less  fa- 
ti^e."  What  renders  this  instance  of  the  sapience  of  our  old  road  surveyors  more 
striking  is,  that  by  skirting  the  east  side  of  Kimside  Hill,  the  road  might  nave  bc^n 
easilv  formed  upon  the  remains  of  a  Roman  military  way. 

The  surveyors  of  our  highways  seem  lately  to  have  performed  their  duty  with 
judgment  and  punctuality ;  but  there  is  still  ample  room  for  improvement  The 
jurisdiction  and  the  salary  of  surveyor  ought  to  be  increased,  and  able  experienced 
workmen  employed.    It  is  absurd  to  engage  feeble  old  men  for  the  purpose  of  lessen^ 

VOL,  I,  %\ 


126  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

ing  the  poor-rates.  They  can  seldom  be  taught  to  prepare  and  lay  on  the  materials 
properly,  or  to  form  drains  with  judgment.  Wheii  these  things  are  improperly 
managed,  the  tolls  are  always  high,  and  post-horses  are  soon  knocked  up*. 

In  some  parts  there  is  still  an  unpardonable  omission  with  respect  to  guide-posts  at 
the  end  of  cross  roads.  Gentlemen  who  are  commissioners  of  roads  ought  to  insist 
upon  the  erection  and  adoption  of  those  useful  directors,  which  might  now  be  ren- 
dered more  lasting  by  using  cast-iron  pillars.  Inns  or  alehouses  are  in  some  parts 
situated  at  so  great  distance  from  each  other,  that  the  humble  traveller  must  fre- 
quently feel*the  want  of  shelter  and  r^uhment  But  our  magistrates,  it  is  hoped, 
MriU  never  reject  the  opportunity  of  multiplying  these  houses  of  acoonmiodation. 

The  township  roads  are  in  general  very  bad.  This  deficiency  is  in  most  cases  to  be 
attributed  to  tne,  Acgjigc^t  manner  of  fetSotmmg  statute  worl^  and  the  ignorance  of 
husbandmen  in  the  art  of  road-making.  It  has  been  recommended  to  remedy  these 
evils  by  appointing  a  surveyor,  with  a  small  salary,  who  should  be  empowered  to  col- 
lect the  composition  due  for  statute  work«  and  employ  this  money  for  repairing  the 
road  where  most  necessary  for  the  public  in  geneiul,  without  having  regard  to  the 
convenience  or  influence  of  individuals.  The  whole  business  to  be  under  the  control 
and  superintendance  of  a  committee  of  tSie  inhabitants  interested  in  the  expenditure 
of  the  funds. 

CANALS. 

In  this  otfuntjr  thete  are  no  cfitnak,  notwitiistending  their  manifest  utility  to  an  ex« 
tensive  minim  district  like  this,  whevB  such  immense  quantities  of  lieayy  artides  ^tre 
to  be  c(mv6)r^.  Several  liave  been  piojectedf .  Be&re  1792»  H  wis  in  coHtemfda- 
tftoft  to  ma&e  a  tenal  fn^aoi  the  coQiaieB  and  lime  works  south  of  BUtwvik^  to  Kelso 

*  Mr.  M'Adam  stated  before  a  oommitiee  of  the  Hoiue  of  Commons  in  the  year  1SI9,  that  the'ttMd  tev6« 
niie  in  Eagknd  and  Wales  amounted  to  1,350>0002L  per  annum ;  of  which  enormom  sttm  ttt  teftt  thte^glglith 
part  was  matted  bj  n^ligence  and  ignorance. 

t  The  project  of  making  the  river  Tyne  navigable  to  Hexham  appears  to  have  been  in  agitation  as  &r  back 
as  the  year  1705;  and  is  not^  as  is  generally  believed^  an  original  idea.  The  scheme  was  even  so  far  pur- 
suedy  that  application  was  ihade  to  parliaihent  for  leave  to  bring  in  a  bill  for  carrying  it  into  effect  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  copy  of  the  petition  whicSi  was  drawn  up  on  the  occasion,  and  of  a  letter^  addressed  to  the  repre- 
sentatives of  the  counties  of  Northumberland  and  Durham,  fequesthig  their  assistance  in  forwarding  the  pro- 
ject   They  are  preserved  in  the  office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  Peace  :— 

**  To  the  Right  Honrable  the  Lords  Spiritual  and  Temporall,  and  the  Knights,  Citizens,  and  Burgesses,  in 

P&rUament  (usembted, 

'^  The  humble  Petition  of  the  Justices  of  the  Peace  for  the  Coimty  of  Northumberland,  and  the  Grand  Jury 
for  the  said  County,  att  the  Generall  Quarter  Sessions  of  the  Peace  held  att  Morpeth,  in  the  said  County, 
for  the  County  aforesaid,  the  11th  day  of  January,  in  the  Eight  yeare  of  the  Reigne  of  our  Soveraigne 
Lady  Queen  Anne, 

"  Humbly  sheweth, 
"  That  your  Petitioners  humbly  conceive  the  makeing  the  River  of  Tine  navigable  from  Newbume  (the 
place  to  which  it  now  flows)  to  Hexham,  in  the  said  county,  would  be  of  very  great  advantage  and  benefit  to 


NQBrTHUMBERLAXD.  isr 

in  Sooddiltd,  and  irom  tkAd^  Qp  %he  Tweed  «tid  Te^Hiot*  Mr.  Dodd^  in  1794»  pub- 
lished a  plan  fc^  jotnii^  the  eart  9tA  M^eft  Bern  hy  means  of  a  canal  frcwd  NenroMtle  to 
Carli^e.  At  a  genNmrad  nMMmg  to  carry  tbe  sdb^^ne  into  execution,  he  dbserved, 
''  diat  the  pres^it  looal  trade  fbem  hence  to  Cailisle,  though  very  ccnfisiderahle,  mijght 
still  be  iml^roved ;  and  when  to  Uiat  we  add  the  imm^ise  lead  trade,  the  vast  i|iifln- 
tity  oi  limestone  eral,  iron,  iMa  ote^  stone,  timber,  hemp,  flax,  sfate,  glass,  &c.  tint 
wiU  employ  this  navigation^  th^  ingenuous  mind,  diarmed  with  aiational  improre* 
ment,  dw^ls  upon  the  picftuire  be£(»-e  it  witii  astonishment  a&d  defigfat,  and  seems  t^ 
wonder  that  a  scheme  so  pregnant  Hvith  blessing  to  society  should  never  liefiore  have 
been  carried  into  execution." 

Mr.  Dodd  ]Hroposed  to  follow  t^e  bed  (^  the  liver  from  Newcaatle  to  fitdh,  asd 
theati  t6  psiss  on  tne  south  Mde  oi  the  Tytie  to  Hexham.  The  expenCe  of  executing 
this  paH  of  tbe  navigation  w*as  estimated  at  £85,718,  and  th^  atMuial  average  revenue 
which  it  would  produce  at  £^3iS* 

But  another  engiilieer,  Mr.  Chi^mata,  reprobated  the  idea  of  following  tine  bed  tif 
the  river,  and  proposed  a  line  to  p»ls  on  the  n^tih  Me  of  tiie  Tyne,  the  peculiarity  uf 
whidi  was,  that  it  should  come  from  Haydon  Bridge  to  the  upper  paHs  of  Newcaatie 
upon  o»e  leoel^  witk&tU  m  iocky  and  tlie  goods  conveyed  from  thence  to  tlie  river,  either 
by  a  kind  of  staircase  of  locks,  or  ih  wagg^ms  on  an  lAcHned  pkne.  It  may  net,  how^ 
ever,  be  unkitaresting  to  present  a  more  particular  sketch  of  this  project 

It  was  recommended  to  form  a  canal  boat-bason  doise  to  tfae  quay,  at  Newcastle, 
between  the  Broad  Chare  and  Rewcastle  Chare,  and  to  carry  a  broad  walled  canal 
from  hence  to  the  Stockbridge,  with  extensive  warehouses  and  yards  abibtting  upcai 
it,  and  facdng  Inroad  streets  on  their  either  fronts.  From  Pancbn  it  was  proposed 
eithar  to  ascend  to  the  Carliol  Tower,  and  passhig  the  front  of  the  town  wsU  to  pro- 
oeed  weatward  to  Ever  Tower,  or  dbe  to  run  up  to  tike  Bamts  Bridge,  and  ddrt  the 
northern  outlets  of  the  town.    The  level  commences  at  the  step  of  the  Leases  Byer, 

the  ii^biUu»t8  of  the  said  County  of  NMthiunbetliind,  i&tertjring  their  eonie,  lead^  coles,  tnd  other  the  pto* 
duct  of  that  part  of  the  said  County  lyeing  near  the  aaid  River  to  the  Towne  and  Port  of  Newooetle  upea 
Tine :  Their  humble  request  therefore  is,  that  leave  may  be  given  to  bring  in  a  Bill  for  makeing  the  said 
River  navigable  as  aforesaid,  by  and  under  such  rules,  restrictions^  wayes,  and  means,,  as  ahaU  be  thought  fitt. 

And  yoiur  petitioners  shall  ever  pray." 

C01PY  OF  THE  LETTER, 

*'  Att  last  Sessions  a  proposal  was  made  on  behalfe  of  John  Errington,  Esq.  for  makeing  ihe  River  Tine 
navigable  fhnii  Newbume  (the  place  to  whidi  it  now  flows)  to  Henham,  tlie  Gentkmen  of  the  Grand  Jury, 
(and  sue  were  wee),  of  i^inion  that  if  the  same  cann  be  done  it  will  be  of  vety  great  benefitt  tb  the  whde 
County,  espedttlly  that  part  lyeing  near  the  Tine,  boHi  in  improvement  of  their  waist  grounds,  and  also  bring* 
lag  the  product  of  that  part  of  the  countrey  to  market  att  easy  rates,  we  agreed  (^  a  petition,  and  also  to  desire 
your  assiaCance  in  Ibrwu^ng  a  bill  for  that  purpose,  which  wee  here  desire,  for  it  will  be  a  peise  of  very 
great  service  to  the  countery ;  but  pray  that  as  soon  as  the  draught  of  the  bill  is  agreed  on,  yon  will  please 
to  send  down  a  copy  to  any  one  of  us,  €»r  to  the  Clerk  of  the  Peace,  who  will  take  care  to  acquaint  us  with 
itt    We  are  Your  most  humble  Servants." 

This  laudable  attempt  proved  abortive,  probably  owing  to  some  of  the  great  landed  proprietors  withhold- 
ing  that  support  which  was  expected  from  them. 


128  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

and  runs  oonveniently  westward,  passing  northward  of  all  the  houses  in  OaUowgate, 
and  crossing  the  west  turnpike,  goes  f<»rward  9  little  south  of  Elswick  Hall  ^urotens ; 
and  about  uu'ee  hundred  yards  below  Ben  well ;  and  passing  dose  to  the  west  of  Ben- 
welLLane  House,  it  turns  northwards  towards  the  military  road ;  and  nearly  within 
two  hundred  yards  of  it,  crosses  Denton  Dean  in  a  narrow  part  where  the  rivulet 
runs  in  rock.  The  line  continues  nearly  the  same  distance  from  the  military  road 
until  after  passing  BeU's  Close  Dean ;  thenceforward  the  course  lies  above  the  -Gate  * 
LfOdge  on  the  road  to  Lemington ;  and  sweeping  onwards  in  gently  declining  ground 
to  the  village  of  Walbottle,  goes  over  Walbottle  Dean.  The  course  then  is  nearly  in 
a  straight  line,  south  of  Throckley,  and  of  Heddon  Hill,  and  north  of  Close  House. 
Passing  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  Whittle  Dean,  the  line  goes  dose  to  the 
south  of  Ovington,  and  running  within  two  or  three  hundred  yards  of  Corbridge, 
proceeds  westward  below  Sahdhoe,  Beaufront,  and  Anick,  and  nearly  400  yards  north 
of  the  Brewery  at  the  end  of  Hexham  Bridge.  The  line,  in  its  progress  westward, 
passes  considerably  north  of  the  Hermitage,  and  meets  a  material  obstruction  in  the 
projecting  steep  land  of  St.  John  Lee,  through  which  Mr.  Chapman  imagined  it 
would  be  eligible  to  carry  a  tunnd.  Henceforward  the  line  passes  dose  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  village  of  Acomb,  and  crosses  the  North  Tyne  opposite  Warden  Mill 
Hence  the  line  passes  between  Allerwash  and  the  Tyne,  proceeas  in  its  course  under 
Altonside,  and  terminates  below  Haydon  Bridge,  where  the  level  ceases,  after  a  course 
of  nearly  thirty-one  miles.  From  this  place  it  was  proposed  to  carry  the  canal  to  St. 
Nicholas,  near  Carlide,  and  fit>m  thence  to  Maryport,  on  the  Irish  Channel ;  the  total 
length,  with  branches,  bdng  95  miles. 

Messrs  Chapman  and  Jessop  agreed  in  estimating  the  expence  of  the  canal  between 
Newcastle  and  Maryport,  at  £  S55,067.  An  anonymous  writer  calculated  that  the 
annual  avera^  revenue  arising  from  the  canal  would  amount  to  upwards  of  £  90,000. 

The  principal  supporters  of  the  grand  canal  divided  into  two  parties ;  the  one  pre« 
ferred  the  plan  recommended  by  Mr.  Dodd,  and  the  other  tnat  proposed  by  Mr. 
Chapman*.  In  consequence  of  this  division,  the  money  to  complete  the  great  design 
of  uniting  the  two  seas,  could  not  be  raised,  and  of  coiu'se  it  was  given  up.  A  canal 
on  the  north  side  of  the  T3me,  to  stop  at  Haydon  Bridge,  and .  another  on  the  south 
side,  to  tenninate  at  Hexham,  were  next  proposed.  Tfie  subscriptions  for  defiaying 
the  expence  of  the  north  line  were  soon  fuled,  and  application  was  made  to  parliament 
Sn  1797»  to  obtain  an  act  for  making  a  canal  on  the  north  side,  but  it  met  with  so 
strong  an  opposition  from  the  landholders,  that  it  was  thought  proper  to  withdraw  it. 

Mr.  Dodds,  in  1811,  made  an  ineffectual  attempt  to  revive  the  project  of  joining 
the  eastern  and  western  seas  by  a  canal ;  but,  in  181 7»  sudi  progress  was  made  in  the 
measure,  that  a  meeting  of  the  county  was  called  to  consider  of  its  expediency.  At 
this  meeting  it  was  proposed  to  begin  the  canal  at  Lemington ;  to  go  up  the  north 
side  as  far  as  Wylam,  then  to  cross  the  Hag,  and  to  proceed  on  the  south  side  of  the 

*  *  Mr.  J<mathtti  Thompson,  of  Sheepwash,  recommended  to  commence  the  canal  at  Nordi  Shields;  and 
Joining  a  branch  from  the  Bams  Bridge  at  Newcastle,  beyond  the  Three-mile  Bridge,  to  proceed  ap  the  vale 
of  the  Pont.  This  projector  conceived,  that  b^  rendering  certi^n  rivers  and  bums  myigable,  the  izdand 
navigation  might  be  extended  to  the  Tweed, 


NORTHUMBEBXiAND.  189 

rhrer  to  Haydon  BriAm,  with  a  view  ultimatdy  of  extending  the  navigatioii  to  the 
Solway  Frith.  This  Ust  eflbrt  to  fiusfitate  the  commeitdal  communicotioiis  of  the 
eounty  was  very  feebly  supported.  Gentlemen  of  great  property  and  influence  viewed 
the  business  with  coed  inmkatenoe ;  while  some  comnieraal  gentlemen  seemed  in- 
dined  to  carry  it  in  a  hasty,  inconsidevate,  and  iniudicious  manner.  The  Duke  of 
Northumberland  declined  giving  any  opinion  on  the  subiect»  until  he  had  conmilted 
his  a^encT^,  and  thd^r  advice,  it  seems,  was  not  favouiabls  to  the  scheme,  which  was 
sfaor^^  after  abandoned.  One  striking  amuEnent  in  favour  of  a  junction  canal  was 
adduced  at  the  eoun^  meetiiig  by  Mr.  W.  Armstrong,  who  stated,  that  ^  we  can 
teing  com  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Newcastie  cheaper  than  we  can  convey  it 
between  Newcastle  and  Cailislef  !** 

BUILDINGS. 

The  Seats  of  the  andent  ftmihes  aie  generally  wected  upon  the  sites  of  old  castles^ 
or  are  the  castles  themselves,  more  or  less  modemiaed^  but  still  retaining  the  ancient 
features  of  strength  and  magnificence.  Elegant  and  modem  mansions,  with  exten- 
sive pleasure-grounds,  are  interspersed  throughout  most  parts  of  the  county.  Besides 
these  seats  (which  will  be  particularly  noticed  in  the  sequel  of  the  work),  there  are 
many  neat  and  eommodions  Imildhigs  belonging  to  respectable  people  in  the  middle 
ranks  of  life. 

Most  of  the  ParmJiauses  were  feraaoly  very  shabby  and  ill>-eontrived.  The  faanit 
stable,  byer,  dunghill,  and  the  dwellmg*hoiise,  bekiff  all  huddled  toflether,  without 
any  regard  to  convenience^  deaniinesi^  or  health.  Those  that  have  neeti  erected  ot 
late  years  are  substantial,  neat  buildings,  excdtoithr  adwted  to  ihe  various  purposes 
wanted  for  extensive  farms,  and  impvov^  oidtiTiMaon.  The  farm-steads  buik  by  the 
Commissioners  of  Greenwidi  Hospital  aM  rennarkably  convenient  and  handscHne^  and 
produce  a  most  agreeable  effect 

The  old  CMojges  weve  generafiy  buih  with  stone  and  day,  and  covered  with  thateh  } 
those  that  have  been  late^  bijdlt  ate  o#  stone  and  lime^  covered  with  tiles  or  slates, 
and  mostly  a  floor  of  lime  and  sand  But  m  many  parteof  this  eoitnty  the  hmdiiQlidU 
ers  still  appear  shamefully  ignorant  of  the  advantages  which  result  nrom  increasfag 
the  comfopts  of  the  labourer,  it  is  shoddng  tliat  a  mui,  his  wife,  and  habP  a  dozen 
children^  ^uld  be  obliged  to  live  huddled  together  in  one  miserable  hoveL  It  ia 
destructive  oi  health,  deeencrr,  and  monls.  People  who  ase  doomed  to  exist:  in  such 
situations  natuiatty  become  oirty,  Evenly,  and  oegraded.  Gdveamau:  a  nice  cottage 
and  a  plot  of  ground  for  a  garden,  and  he  soon  begins  to  display  a  spirit  of  industry 
and  independence.  In  this  respect  the  late  Duke  of  Northumberland  deserves  the 
most  unqualifled  praise.  He  hi^^poved  and  beautifled  his  extenidve  estates  by  the 
erection  of  a  great  number  of  neat,  comfortable  cottages,  to  each  of  whidf  was  at^ 
tached  half  an  acre  of  land.  The  cheering  and  beneficial  effects  of  this  enlightened 
policy  has  not  yet  been  folly  perceived  by  other  gr^  landholders,  though  many  eon- 
venient  and  comfortable  cottages  have  lately  arisen  in  various  parts  of  tne  county. 

+  The  Gentlemen  of  Camberland  at  this  time  succeeded  in  obtaining  snbscxiptiQns  for  forming  a  canal  be* 
tween  Carlisle  and  the  Solway  Frith, 


130  GENERAL  DESCRrPTION  OF 

Modem  Scotch  cottages,  though  very  formal  in  appearance,  are  frequently  deoo« 
rated  by  training  honeysuckles  or  ivy  upon  the  walls,  and  disposing  a  row  of  house- 
leek  along  the  lid^  of  the  roof.  In  Northumberland  the  Scotdli  mode  of  buHding  is 
imitated,  but  sufficient  attention  is  seldom  paid  to  picturesque  effect.  The  most 
strikmg  feature  of  beauty  in  the  south  of  England  is  formed  by  the  neat,  warm,  Httle 
cottages,  snug  out^houses,  and  nice  ^dens,  which  gratify  the  eye  in  every  duection. 
None  of  the  beautiful  orders  of  architecture  have  a  more  pleasing  effect  than  the  cot- 
tage door  crowned  with  a  garland  of  roses  and  honeysuckle.  It  would  be  delightful 
to  observe  gentlemen  as  attentive  to  the  erection  of  cottages  as  of  stables  and  kennels. 

The  ancient  inhabitants  of  Northumberland  found  it  necessary  to  associate  in  small 
bodies  for  their  mutual  defence  agdjist  those  numerous  depredating  parties  from  the 
borders  of  Scotland,  which  were  perpetually  harassing  them.  Villages  were  thus 
formed,  and  generally  near  to  some  castle  or  strcmg-hold  to  which  the  mhabitants  re- 
tired in  cases  of  emergency.  The  population  of  villages,  however,  is  rath^  decreas- 
ing ;  and  were  the  impolitic  practice  of  exacting  bamk^  service  in  lieu  of  money,  for 
rent,  to  be  abandoned  oy  the  farmers,  very  few.  would  chuse  to  inhabit  vUla^^. 

PLANTATIONS. 

The  ancient  forests  of  Northumberland,  and  the  trees  most  cong^odal  to  the  soU, 
have  been  already  noticed.  Woods  growing  in  a  natural  state  are  found  mostly  on  the 
banks  of  the  North  and  South  Tyne,  the  Coquet,  Wansbeck,  and  their  tributary 
streams.  Some  valuable  and  extensive  plantations  of  oak  are  preserved  upon  the 
estates  belonging  to  Greenwich  Hospital.  On  several  parts  of  the  Duke  of  Northum- 
berland's estate,  particularly  on  the  borders  of  the  Callage  Bum,  near  Alnwick,  seve- 
ral thousands  of  acorns,  of  an  excellent  quality,  were  planted  a  few  years  ago,  which 
thrive  remarkably  welL  On  many  similar  situations  in  the  county,  which  now  con- 
tain nothing  but  underwood,  oaks  might  be  reared  with  great  advantage  to  the  pro- 
prietors. But  indeed,  plantations  on  an  extensive  scale,  are  rising  in  many  parts  of 
the  county,  and  are  afanost  in  every  instance  doing  weU,  and  promise  not  onfy  to  re- 
pay the  spirited  exertions  of  the  proprietors,  but  to  add  greatly  to  the  ornament 
and  improvement  of  the  country*. 

The  demand  by  the  coUieries  and  lead  mines  for  small  wood,  has  induced  the  pro- 
]Nietors  of  woods  on  the  Derwent,  Tyne,  &c.  to  cut  them  at  an  early  age.  From 
twenty-five  to  thirty  years  growth  is  the  mxienl  term  for  oak,  dm,  and  ash ;  but 
birch,  willow,  and  alder,  are  cut  sooner ;  and  hazle  for  corf-rods  once  in  three  or  four 
years. 

*  In  Northumberland,  ercn  on  a  cold  clayey  soil,  the  oak  does  not  oontinue  to  thrive  as  timber,  but  loses 
its  top,  and  becomes  stag-headed.  The  dimate  is  certainly  against  the  growth  of  trees  that  are  exposed  to 
easterly  winds,  immediately  ffom  the  sea ;  and  there  may  be  something  in  the  substrata  of  Durham  and  Nor- 
thumberland, which  is  nngenial  to  their  growth,  in  its  more  advanced  stages ;  so  that  the  present  nakedness 
of  the  country  may  have  arisen  from  the  conviction  of  its  owners,  that  the  oak,  in  ordinary  situations,  is  un- 
profitable, as  timber ;  while  coppice  wood  is  of  little  value,  as  fuel,  in  a  country  that  abounds  with  coals. 
The  aah,  however,  being  a  necessary  article  in  husbandry,  and  useful,  as  timber,  at  an  earlier  age  than  the 
oak,  and  moreover  braving  the  sea  winds  better,  has,  on  the  contrary,  been  found  profitable  to  be  reared ; 
and  has,  no  doubt,  heretofore,  engaged  the  attention  of  land-owners.— *Jfar«Aaif«  Vietv  of  the  Reports,  p.  223. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  181 


GARDENS. 

The  number  of  gardens  have  been  lately  much  increased,  particularly  in  the  southern 
parts  of  the  countjr.  Florist  Societies  have  also  been  formed  ip  many  places,  and  a 
taste  for  the  pleasmff  and  healthy  art  of  horticulture  has  become  very  general.  The 
suburbs  of  Newcastle  is  beautifi^  by  numerous  neat  little  gardensi  befonmng  to  the 
inhabitants.  If  this  amusement  continues  in  fashion,  many  useful  ana  beautiful 
plants  will  become  naturalized,  which  at  present  can  hardly  exist  through  the  inde- 
mency  of  our  winters*. 

Vast  quantities  of  culinary  vegetables  are  brought  to  the  great  markets  of  Newcas- 
tle and  Shields.  The  large  gardens  in  the  neighTOurhood  of  these  towns  being  un- 
able to  supply  the  demand,  the  deficiency  is  amply  supplied  by  the  gardeners  of 
Hexham,  IVlorpeth,  and  Sunderland. 

The  prolific  Roseherry  Strawberry  has  been  introduced  here,  and  is  a  great  favou- 
rite. That  fine  vegetable  the  Purple  Caulffhwer,  the  handsome  Globe  Onion,  and 
the  StroLsburgh  and  Portugal  Onion,  and  Hay^s  Cockney  Potatoe,  have  been  lately 
much  improved.  The  J^swici  White  Codling,  and  White  Hawthorn  Dean,  being 
great  bearers,  and  not  subject  to  the  canker,  are  now  almost  the  only  kind  of  apple 
trees  planted.  Perhaps  the  Manx  Codling  is  inferior  to  neither.  The  fine-flavoured 
Ribston  Pippin,  when  judiciously  trained  against  walls  with  a  good  aspect,  bears  well 
in  this  county.  The  Hade  Pear  is  now  greatly  encouraged  hy  our  market  garden- 
ers. But  the  frosty  nights  and  north-east  winds  from  the  German  ocean,  which 
are  so  prevalent  here  in  the  sprint  months,  are  very  inimical  to  fruit  crops.  It  is 
from  this  circumstance  that  orchards  are  so  thinly  scattered,  and  that  most  of  the  ap- 
ples consumed  in  this  county  are  imported. 

WASTES. 

The  extent  of  waste  lands,  or  open  mountainous  districts,  incapable  of  being  con- 
verted into  profitaUe  tillage  land,  is  very  great,  and  has  been  estimated  at  near  450,000 
acres.  Most  of  the  Commons,  susceptible  of  cultivation,  have  been  lately  enclosed. 
Of  this  the  commons  belonring  to  the  manors  of  Hexhamshire  and  AILen<iale  contain 
50,000  acres,  a  great  part  j[85,000)  of  which  are  high,  exposed,  heathy  mountains. 
These  axe  properly  converted  into  stinted  pastures,  being  thought  incapable  of  any 
other  improvement. 

The  value  of  enclosed  commons  dqp^ids  upon  the  soil  and  the  system  of  cultiva- 
tion pursued.  There  are  instances  where  the  incieased  value  is  in  the  ratio  of  twelve 
to  one.  But  in  some  few  places  bad  land  has  been  inclosed  at  a  great  expence,  which 
will  never  be  repaid.    In  those  mountainous  wilds,  incapable  of  cultivation  by  the 

*  Both  fruit  and  vegetables  sometimes  attain  an  extraordinary  size  in  this  coonty.  A  netted  melon  was 
lately  produced  in  Craster  gardens,  which  weighed  14lb.  and  measured  89  indies  by  527*  In  iS17>  a  jargo« 
nelle  pear  was  produced  at  High  House,  near  Morpeth,  that  weighed  eleren  ounces  and  a  lialf.--(7yi€  Mer« 
cwry,  Nov.  25,  I8I7.)  A  dwarf  purple  brocoli,  cut  at  Shawdon  in  1818,  weighed  above  12lb. ;  and  there  is 
one  at  present  (1822)  at  Seaton  Delaval,  above  four  feet  in  circumference. 


isa 


GENERAL  DESCRIPnON  OF 


plouffh,  hoUow  drains,  executed  with  judgment,  and  well  secured,  has  heen  recom- 
mended.    Many  of  these  districts  are  excellently  situated  for  planting,  to  which  pur- 
'  pose  they  might  be  profitably  appropriated. 

ESTATES^ 

There  are  probably  few  parts  of  the  kingdom  where  estates  have  heen  more  rnpidiy 
improved  thui  in  this  county.  In  several  instances  the  value  of  land  has  ba^i  oua* 
druplad  witton  fifty  years.  In  1805,  the  writera  of  the  Agricultural  Survey  of  I^or* 
thumberland,  estimated  the  annual  value  of  estates  in  this  county  at  £  6Off,OO0^  by 
ffupposing  there  were  800,000  acres  of  cultivatibW  koid,  worth,  on  an  avecage^^  )4s. 
per  aicre,  and  450,000  acres  of  mountainous  wilds,  worth  Ss.  par  acre.  But  the  follow* 
ing  is  an  ofl^al  return  of  the  total  r^ital  of  the  several  Wards  at  two  differ^it  iiuj^ 
The  first  column  contains  the  rental  as  ascertained  at  the  Michaelmas  sessicH^  IB 
1800,  for  laying  on  a  rate  for  building  the  N(»thumberland  county  courts  and  gaol  in 
Newcastle,  and  the  last  oolunm  is  the  annual  value  as  given  in  1815»  for  the  pro* 
perty  tax. 

OLENDALE  WAED. 

54,108  19  11 
4ftlS3    4    6 

-«—  102,287     4     5- 


West  DiviriMi 
East  Diyiaon 


L. 

S^SQ9 
4S,0e5 


■W"^ 


104,S34 


)f orth  Division 
South  Division 


9AMBKOU6I;  WAKP. 

41,086  9  11 
40,860  8  8 
81,946  IS    7 


47,305 
42,390 


89,695 


East  Division 
North  Division 
West  Division 
South  DifisiflB 


COQUETDALE  WAKD. 

61,019  13  11 
59,100  13  0 
84,556  0  0 
13,600  13  10 

I  .  ■■!■    I      n  :  158,277    0    9 


West  Divinon        « 
North-west  Division 
South  Division 
East  Division 
North-east  Division 


TINDALE  WABB. 

%^QaS    0  0 

48,809    3  0 

46,282  18  6 

60,958  12  0 

64,560     0  0 
■»  '     ■       ■         248,705  13    6 


51,455 
65,54« 
40,284 
19>608 


63,918 
62,788 
73,415 
74,125 


JT6,791 


307|414 


East  Division 
West  Divisioa 


West  Division 

East 


HORFETH  WAKIX 

57,591     4    Oi 

50.709  10    9i 

■■  110,300  14  lOi 


58,472 
56,618 


115,090 


GASTLE  WAE9« 

99,9^1  15    6 
12^,^7  12    « 

-- —  215,169    7  10 


117>825 

206,984 


Trr 


S?4,809 


Grand  Total       91^^686  19  IH     Gnmct  Total  1,118,133 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  183 

■ 

Thus  it  appears,  that  in  1815,  the  annual  taxable  value  of  Noiihumb^Iand  amount- 
ed to  the  enoimous  sum  of  one  mHUon^  one  hundred  and  eighteen  thousand^  one  hunted 
and  ihirty4hree  pounds  eterUng !  At  the  same  time  the  annual  value  of  the  real  pro- 
perty in  the  Town  and  County  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  was  estimated  at  £  91>642 ; 
and  that  in  Berwick  upon  Tweed  at  £  30,811,  which  sums,  added  to  the  annual  va* 
lue  of  property  in  the  county  of  Northumberlimd  (including  fractions  of  poimds), 
makes  a  grand  total  of  £  1,240,594  9s.  T^f. 

In  18^,  the  total  rental  as  returned,  amounted  to  £  916,686  19s.  11^ ;  but  as 
there  is  good  authority*  for  presuming  that  the  rated  rental  is  on  an  average  one- 
ninth  less  than  the  rack  rental,  the  real  rental  in  that  year  may  be  fairly  stated  at 
£  1,020,752. 

In  Northumberland  estates  vary  in  their  annual  value  from  £S0  to  upwards. of 
£  80,000  a  year ;  one  in  particular  was,  during  the  late  depreciation  of  the  currency, 
estimated  at  £  100,000.  Small  estates,  from  £  30,  to  £  300  a  year,  are  found  in  the 
southern  and  middle  parts  of  the  county,  but  very  rarely  in  the  northern. 

The  landed  property  in  Northumberland  is  mostly  freehold.  Some  small  parcels  of 
copyhold  are  round  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  county ;  and  in  those  districts,  whiel} 
belong  to  the  county  of  Durham,  some  leaseholds  for  lives,  or  years,  are  held  under 
the  church.  There  are  also  two  or  three  manors  of  customary  t?nux^4  tQwards  tb^ 
head  of  South  Tyne. 

AGRICULTURE. 

The  Romans  introduced  husbandry  into  Northumberland.  Their  suooesMrs,  the 
fierce  Saxons,  after  a  long  and  destructive  war,  seized  tlie  county,  and  tiien  began 
with  their  acicustomed  energy  to  cultivate  the  soil.  After  the  introductioh  of  Ghiis- 
tianity,  the  monks  became  proprietors  of  several  tracts  of  land,  and  this  change  formed 
an  important  epocha  in  the  annals  of  Northumberland.  Villages  were  formed  and 
protected  by  religious  houses^  and  the  best  modes  of  husbandry  were  revived  and  eXf* 
tended  by  men  who  possessed'  all  the  knowledge  of  the  age.  The  viHageris  lived  com^. 
fortably,  and  their  holy  masters  acquired  great  opulence.  The  spouatk>n8  of  the 
Danes ;  the  vmdictive  devastations  of  the  rf  ormans ;  and  the  marauding  inroads  of 
the  Scotch,  continued  for  ages  to  check  the  extension  of  agriculture  in  mis  coul^t)^. 
But  amidst  all  the  revolutions  of  power,  our  farmers,  like  those  in  otlier  parts  of  Eng- 
land, implicitly  followed  the  Roman  husbandry,  and  furmly  believed  the  Roman  su- 
perstitions. At  len^^  Jethuo  Tull  published  an  account  of  his  agricultural 
experiments.  This  is  the  real  Father  of  English  Husbandfy.  The  memory  of 
this  illustrious  benefactor  of  the  human  race  wiU  be  cherished  by  a  grateful  posterity^ 

*  ObflenratiaiiA  annexed  \o  the  Parochial  Returns  relative  to  the  Ppor  in  England,  made  pnursuant  to  an  act 
passed  in  the  55tb  year  of  his  Majesty  King  George  III.  and  printed  by  order  of  the  Hoiise  of  Coinmons  Tt\ 
the  year.  ISIS,    ' 

t  The  annpal  yidue  of  real  Property  assessed  in  England  and  Wales  in  the  yeaur  1S15«  anv^nated  to 
L.  51,898,433  W.  6d 

VOL,  I,  2  L 


1$4  GENERAL  DESCRUrt^ION  OF 


wheh  the  a^iev«me»t8  of  desolating  conquerors  exdte  only  fec&igs  of  disgust  snd 
loathing. 

Mr  Arthur  Young,  who  visited  Northumberland  about  fifty  years  ago,  affirmed, 
that  no  where  was  a  viler  or  more  slovenly  husbanchry  to  be  found.  He  represented 
even  the  occupiers  of  larse  farms  as  men  of  contracted  minds^  treadinff  perpetually  in 
the  old  bmten  route,  ana  fondly  retaining  those  barbarous  practices  which  damp,  and 
even  extinguish,  the  spirit  of  improvement ;  but,  indeed,  he  could  find  nothing  in 
this  county  that  deserved  tiiie  name  of  improvemadt,  evi^  Uiing  being  done  in  the 
true  spirit  of  a  Kttie  bm^Jhrmer. 

How  greatly  is  tlve  seme  changed  since  that  time.  In  no  part  of  Britain  is  an  ex- 
cellent and  improved  mode  of  cultivation  better  understood,  or  more  zealoudy  imd 
suceessftiUy  pursued ;  and  our  farmera,  instead  of  bein^  ^vish,  stu^d,  and  churHsh, 
are  i^miliently  distinguished  for  their  opidence^  intdAigeaee,  and  enterprising  spirit. 
Their  rej^ulation,  incteed^  stancb  so  high»  tint  BMny  come  from  the  most  distant  parts 
of  the  kmgdom  to  observe  the  agrieuftural  practiee  of  tliis  district. 

The  rapid  and  unprecedented  advanfiea  wmdi  this  county  has  made  in  afflicultural 
improvements^  are  in  a  ^reat  measure  owing  to  the  practical  knowledge,  scientific  ac^ 
iauii^ments,  and  unwearied  zeal,  of  the  faite  Mr.  Bailey,  ot  Chiltinghamf.  Tins  gen*, 
tteman  was  long  manager  of  the  extensive  landed  property  of  the  £aii  of  TankerviSe 
in  Northumberkmd,  and  his  exerticMis  were  vigorously  directed  to  the  iaaprovemeot 
and  invention  of  useful  machines,  to  the  extirpati<m  of  old  barbarous  prejudices,  and 
to  the  extension  of  an  enlightened  ikiode  of  piiwstice.  His  efforts  were  ably  seconded 
by  many  intelligent  cultivators,  whose  successful  practice  has  proved  both  profitable 
and  faonofundile  to  tbemsdves« 

The  $kt  (tf  F^srmi  varies  eotwdcKabljr :  in  Glendide  and  Bambrough  Wards  the 
farms*  are  laige,  generally  from  £  500  to  ft  lAOQ  a  year.  In  other  parts  of  thejcounty 
tiiey  are  from  £  ID  to  £  800  a  year.  Some  tenants  in  the  ncMrthem  parts  <^1lie  couiw 
ty  tram  £  SOOO  to  £  4M0  a  .year»  and  upwaids.  The  iiitilily  of  large  farms  ha$  been 
mndi  disputed*  But  tiiere  ought  certainly  to  be  ranks  and  dc^^rees  in  hosbandry, 
and  l3ie  e^stence  of  s&me  large  farms  in  every  county  is  both  natural  apd  benefidal; 
though  tlie  extension  of  '*  lai^  matnifactOTies  of  food'*  cannot  be  too  severely  dqpre- 
eated.  Sudi  |iolicy  involves  me  dinnnuti<m  and  degradation  of  the  agricultural  po- 
pulation, and  IS  fNP^nant  with  numerous  evils. 

Le&»0$^  for  twen^.-oBe  years^  are  granted  on  most  of  the  principal  estates,  eroeeially 
in  the  noi%beili  parts  of  tM  county.    Some  fMPoprietors  of  land,  in  tibe  otter  «ustricts, 


X*  Mt  Tidhi  Treirffise  mi  tt»  Frittttples  of  Tilkge  «^  Vsi^tkm,  and  raoenlfy  puUiahed  in  an  im{voved 
£atm  by  Mrw  WaKam  (Mhdtt,  ought  to  be  read  and  studitd  by  all  fanntn.  Many  of  Tull'd  prindpies  have 
latelj  been  claimed  as  original  discoyeries  by  others ;  but  Mr.  Bailey,  with  a  manly  candour  honourable  to 
his  character,  say^^-"  It  is  very  clear  that  Mr.  Tull  is  the  root  from  whence  this  excellent  practice  (viz.  dril- 
ling in  rows  at  wide  distances),  first  originated." — Nortkum.  lUpori,  p.  104,  3d.  edil. 

f  Mr.  BaOey,  in  conjunction  with  Mr.  Culley,  presented  to  the  Board  of  Agriculture  ''  A  general  View  of 
the  Agriculture  of  Northumberland,"  of  which  says  Mr.  Marshall,  **  it  is  much  to  be  apprehended  that,  in 
going  the  round  of  the  Boards'  Reports,  we  shaU  not  tee  iU  Uke  agakn."  This  mas^Cerly  performance  contains 
much  valuable  information. 


NORTHUMBEHLAKD.  135 

let  only  for  ninev  twelve,  or  fifteen  yeart ;  Mnd  many  grant  no  leases.  The  oovenants 
yasy  mth  circumstances.  Farms  are  usually  let  six  or  twelve .  months  before  the  ex- 
piration of  the  lease ;  but  upon  the  Earl  of  Tankerville's  estate,  the  tenants  have  m 
offer  of  their  fanaas  two  years  and  a  half,  or  three  years,  before  the  expiration  of  the 
lease.  The  tenants  of  farms  belonging  to  Greenwich  Hospital  are  always  treatied  in 
a  liberal  manner.  On  some  estates  the  dark,  mysterious,  and  absurd  mode  of  letting 
fannfi  by  secret psr^^pamhy  is  still  in  use:  and  in  one  part  farms  have  been  let  by  aucm 
tio0i;  an  expedi^it  for  giving  a  high  fictitious  value  to  land,  p^haps  equally  as  m^ 
tion^  as  the  former.  The  comparative  low  state  of  agriculture  in  some  parts  of  the 
county  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  tenancrp^  at  will,  or  on  short  leases,  and  to  ii^udictous 
restrietioBS  upcm  the  tenant 

Bent. — In  former  times  the  rent  of  landa  was  clogged  with  pavments  in  kind,  and 
personal  sendees ;  but  these  have  been  long  disus^  and  the  whole  is  now  paid  in 
money.  The  rent  per  acre  vary  with  die  quality  of  the  land,  and  other  drcumstaai^ 
ees,  from  1^.  to  £  S  !•«.  pw  acve. 

TUkee  are  universaily  Mt  and  ackaewledgied  to  be  a  material  obstacle  to  the  ad« 
vrakcement  of  agrieulture.  They  certainly  operate  as  penalties  on  improvem^it.  In 
some  parts  of  this  county  the  tiUies  aiie  ooUeoted  with  moderation,  in  ei&ers  with  the 
severity  of  law ;  some  Irt  fmr  a  term  of  years  at  a  fair  rent,  whilst  othees  V4due  and 
let  ^vay  year.  These  are  no  fixed  price  for  particular  cn»s,  the  value  par  acre  vary* 
ing  accorauig  to  the  estimated  produce  per  acre,  and  tTO  price  it  i||trould  sdl  for  at 
market,  ^ducting  the  expence  of  coUectiBg,  thrashing;  makettnig,  taxes,  &c« 
.  Sndasure9,r^Tke  parts  of  this  county  capable  of  cultivation  are,  in  jzeneral,  wdl 
inclosed  1^  live  h^]^,  with  the  exception  of  a  very  few  unindosed  larms  in  the 
vales  of  Breamish,  Tdl,  and  Glen.  The  size  of  endbsures  varies  with  the  size  of  farms, 
fMm  3  to  100  acres.  The  fences  most  gaierallv  used  fyt  new  enclosures  are  earth* 
diotfids,  at  the  base  of  which,  andon  the  edge  oftheditodi  out  of  whidi  they  are  raised, 
aite  jplai^ed  tfafe  quidcs,  usually  u^n  a  turned  sod,  six  inclKs  high.  In  some  parts 
tiie  iui^dieietts  mode  of  cuttmg  quicks  every  year  prevails:  this  makes  the  fencelook 
neat'i^  snug,  but  it  never  grows  so  thick  and  unpenetrable  as  when  left  to  nature^ 
andmit  at  jHxqfier  intervals.  As  lor  beauty,  there  xs  no  oomrpanson^  for  certainly  a 
Ittxwjant  hawthem,  in  full  Uoom,  or  loaden  with  its  ripenea  fnut,  is  a  more  pleas* 
iiiir,  enlivening,  and  flatifyimr  ol4ect,  than  6ie  stiff  formal  sameness  produced  by  the 
SSrsof  a^iSaier.^IiriZy  jSs  «i  unproved  method  of  sdas^g hed^ .h« 
been  lately  introdi^o^ed^  and  the  open  cpaces  m  oid  thorn  hedges  are  now  effectuaUy 
fiHed  «p  by  splashing  and  laying  down  healthy  young  stems  from  the  adjoining 
thorns.  In  some  situations  stone  walls  are  used  for  fences,  but  they  give  the  country 
aeold,  faare,'aiid  unoomfortaUe  ^^arance.  Xr<m  hivdies  are  now  much  used  to  di- 
vide gentiemen^s  parks,  to  Md  meep,  and  to  protect  young  plantations*. 

W^orlm»  Ammab. — 49ome  years  ago  oxen  were  naieh  useo,  espeddly  fer  the  piu^ 
poses  <rf  pfoogking  and  carting  about  home;  but  after  a  short  trial  tib^r  were  igiven 


*  Moiisrs  IL  &  W.  BlUoCt;  whitesmiths  in  Newcarfe^saj,  *'  that  the  ase  ef  iron 'hurdles  an  tipidlj  h 
ing  in  this  coatitjr,  and  Aait  were  it  not^for  the  present  depresrion  of  agrienllvft^  they  -woidd  lie  utftferaslly 
adapted  in  preference  to  wooden  ones." 


186  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

up,  and  horses  again  substituted  in  their  stead,  and  at  present  very  few  farm«^  use 
them.  In  ploughing  or  harrowing,  horses  are  always  yoked  double,  and  driven  with 
cords  by  the  ploughman,  and  in  general  plough  an  acre  a  day ;  but  in  the  season  of 
sowing  turnips,  one  and  a  half,  and  even  two  acres,  are  frequently  ploughed,  on  fine 
light  soils* 

Implements. — ^The  carts  used  in  this  county  are  mostly  drawn  by  two  horses ;  but 
single  horse  carts  are  used  in  the  vicinity  of  Hexham,  and  those  parts  of  the  county 
adjoining  Cumberland,  and  when  the  superior  advantages  and  great  utility  of  the 
practice  are  better  known  it  must  be  generally  adopted.  Coup-carts,  which  ^ucharge 
their  load  with  great  ease  and  expedition,  are  mucn  used  for  home  work.  A  sparred 
frame  is  found  convenient  for  conveying  com  in  the  straw  and  hay.  Large  unwieldy 
waggons,  drawn  by  four  horses,  are  totaffliy  abandoned. 

The  swing  plough  is  in  general  use  through  every  part  of  the  county.  They  are 
often  very  neatly  and  iustly  made  of  iron.  The  ingenious  Mr.  Bailey,  in  his  ^  Essay 
on  the  Construction  oi  the  Plough,  deduced  from  Mathematical  Principles,^  has  fixed 
its  form  by  a  few  dear  and  simple  rules.  Our  experienced  ploughmen  never  have 
recourse  to  wheel  ploughs.  Ploughing  is  usually  performed  by  two  horses  abreast ; 
but  for  ploughing  between  the  rows  of  the  drill  culture,  a  small  plou^,  with  a  mov- 
able mould-board,  drawn  by  one  horse,  is  commonly  employed.  Excellent  hOTse- 
hoes  are  used  by  our  best  farmers.  The  one  most  common  is  of  a  triangular  form,  and 
contains  three  coulters,  and  three  hoes,  or  six  hoes.  A  hoe  of  this  kind  is  sometimes 
attached  to  a  small  roller,  and  employed  between  rows  of  wheat  and  barley,  from  nine 
to  twelve  inch^  distant  The  cultivator  and  grubber  are  used  in  some  places  for  pulr 
verizing  the  soil,  and  era^dicating  weeds.  On  fine  soils  light  harrows  are  used,  so  con- 
structed that  all  the  ruts  are  equi-distant. 

* ;  A  variety  of  excellent  driUs  for  sowing  com,  beans,  and  turnips,  are  in  general  use. 
A  seven  row  drill  was  invented  by  Mr.  Sailey.  An  instrument,  which  answers  both 
as  a  double  mould-board  and  a  horse-hoe,  is  much  approved  of  by  our  best  farm^s  in 
the  culture  of  drilled  crops  on  light  soils.  The  roUers  used  here  are  constructed  of 
wood,  stone,  or  castriron.  Thrashing  machines  are  now  common  on  almost  all  farms, 
where  more  than  one  plough  is  employed.  They  are  worked  by  hoi^ses,  iti*er,  wmd, 
and  in  some  few  instances,  by  steam,  and  their  powers  and  dimensions  are  adapted  to 
the  variolas  sizes  of  farms.  The  travelling-shaker,  which  carries  the  straw  to  the 
straw.barn,  is  a  great  improvement  in  these  valuable  machines.  An  attached  win- 
nowing machine  sometimes  separates  the  chaiF  from  the  com  before  it  reach  the 
ground,    wr,  Ralstrick  ^d  Mr,  Miekle  have  <5ontended  for  the  honour  of.  having 

« 

*  It  haa  been  niodi  disputed  nrhether  ox  teams  op  horses  or^  the  most  eligible.  Mr  Bailey  is  decidedly 
ftgaiQSt  employing  oxen  in  the  businees  of  husbandry,  and  our  Northumberland  farmers  almost  iiivanably  liae 
hopses.  On  the  contrary,  many  eminent  agriculturists  assert,  that  domesticated  oxen  are  more  docile,  steady, 
and  patient,  than  hottes ;  that  they  will  plough  deep  without  fireting  or  ^king ;  find  that  they  require  nei« 
ther  harness-makers  nor  grooms.  One  writer  calculates  that  by  the  practice  of  working  horset.in  husbandry, 
one  million  of  money  is  annually  lost  in  England.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  three  oxen  in  th^  draught  are 
equal  to  two  horses,  apd  that  an  oXj  with  a  single  yoke  and  two  traces^  ^  well  ^4H^t^  fQT  ploughing  t)etw$^ 
the  ridges  of  turnips. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  187 

^nected  i^ejtrst  effective  machine ;  and  as  the  latter  declined  to  substantiate  his  claims 
to  ori^aUty  of  invention,  his  patent  was  rendered  of  no  avail  in  England.  The  spi* 
rited  opposition  of  Mr.  Raistrick  has  therefore  saved  the  English  farmers  a  very  oon* 
siderabie  expence*. 

Winnowing  machines  are  employed  throughout  all  the  county.  This  is  said  to  be 
a  Chinese  invention,  brought  to  Europe  by  the  Dutch,  and  first  made  in  Scotland  by 
Rodgers,  near  Hawick,  in  1788,  from  whence  they  were  soon  after  brought  into  Nor- 
thumberland. Chaff-cutters,  tumip-slicers,  machines  for  cutting  and  Imiising  com, 
and  steaming  apparatus  for  preparing  food  for  live  stock,  are  all  used  by  our  most 
opulent  cultivators.  A  reaping  machine,  about  t^i  years  ago,  was  exhibited  to  the 
agricultural  meeting  at  Ovmgham  ;  and  Mr.  Brown,  of  Alnwick,  in  1816,  made  one 
calculated  to  cut,  gather,  and  lay  the  com  with  great  regularity,  Many  similar  in*, 
ventions  are  descrmed  in  the  Farmer^s  Magazine ;  but  populai:  opinion  prevents  their 
general  adoption.  In  hay-making  a  curious  machine  is  now  useaby  some  gentlemen, 
called  a  hay-gatherer,  which  teds  me  hay  without  injuring  the  swarth.  At  a  distance 
the  movements  of  tiiis  machine  appear  similar  to  a  doud  of  smoke,  the  hay  being 
raised  and  scattered  with  such  rapioity. 

Manures. — ^Every  exertion  of  mgenuity  is  practised  by  our  best  farmers  to  raise  a 
large  portion  oifarwr-yard  dung.  It  is  now  spread  and  covered  in  as  soon  as  possiUe 
after  being  broufl;fat  on  the  land.  Notwithstanding  the  opinicHi  of  Sir  H.  JDavy  in 
favour  of  fresh  wingf,  it  has  been  found  by  experience  that  manure  considerably  de« 
composed  is  best  adapted  for  accelerating  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  all  the  -smalk 
seeded  plants.  The  utility  of  using  lime  upon  old  tillage  lands  is  now  generally 
doubted.  This  coun^  abounds  with  mild  ume,  free  from  magnesia ;  but  even  on 
the  light  dry  soils  in  Glendate'  Ward,  it  is  found  to  be  of  no  use  after  they  are  once 
•saturated  with  it.  Shell  marie,  sea-ware,  and  coal-ashes,  are  all  used  in  some  situa- 
tions with  considerable  effect.  Bones  are  very  partially  used  as  manure;  and  M&mt 
day«  niiich  ofifers  in  almost  every  situation  such  an  unlimited  supply  of  enriching 

*  Mr.  Robert  Coward,  of  Link  House,  has  just  invented  "  an  improved  com  drill,  which  is  wrought  by  two 
liorses ;  and  also  a  acoffler  or  hoe  to  follow,  drawnby  one  horse.  Each  do  three  rows  at  onoe.  By  this  drill 
fiom  eight  to  ten  acres  may  be  drilled  in  a  day ;  but  the  hoe  going  rather  slower,  will  iio(  do,  abaYC^  s^v<en  o];« 
^ht  acres.  Each  machine  has  variable  or  castor  wheels  at  its  fore  end,  with  a  tiller  attached,"  which  Mr.  C 
considers  as  essiential  to  the  true  working  of  such  machines.  Mr.  R.  Sharper,  a  skilful  agrieultural  machine 
maker,  thinks  this  statement  is  erroneoqs,  as  a  drill  which  sows  even  six  or  eight  rows  at  once,  cannot  do. 
more  than  six  acres  a  day.  He  also  has  drills  with  castor  wheels  and  a  tiller.  It  is  but  justice  to  observe, 
that  Mr.  S.  who  came  from  Lincolnshire  to  Newcastle  about  ten  years  ago,  introduced  several  valuable  im- 
provements in  the  construction  of  machinery  used  in  husbandry^ 

Mr.  Thomas  Brown,  Founder,  Alnwick,  an  ingenioi^s  manufkcturer  of  agricultural  implements,  made,  in 
1803,  an  iron  plough,  with  an  improved  mould*board,  for  Mr.  R.  Gibson,  of  Lesbury,  and  which,  he  thinks, 
was  the  first  made  in  Northumberland.  Mr.  B.  in  ia08,  constructed  a  jointed  iron  brake,  for  Mr.  Batey^  of 
Battle-bridge,  for  which  he  received  a  silver  cup  at  Barmoor  show.  This  mechanic,  in  1820,  also  constructed 
an  improved  drill,  which  he  describes  to  be  so  nicely  adjusted  as  to  sow  all  kinds  of  seeds  with  the  greatest 
regularity,  without  bruising  them  in  the  smallest  degree. 

t  Davy%  Agricultural  Chemlslry,  p.  309^  8y<V 
VOL.  1.  2  M 


138  GENEBAL  DESCKIPTION  OF 

imifture,  have  ody  been  emi^loyed  in  a  £eHr  inrtaeces.  The  value  of  eompotts  is  ge- 
liemtty  aclcnawledged.  In  the  yidniiy  o£  Nenrcastie  $mfil  socb^  cut  out  of  every  mr^ 
low  in  moist  gi»s8  lands,  are  advantageously  omde  into  eooopost  with  dung.  Plough«- 
ing  in  green  crops  is  seldom  practised*. 

IHU^ ^The  arable  landa  of  tbis  county  being  undser  difib*ent  systems*  and  directed 

by  various  opinions*  the  management  of  the  tSlage  must  be  very  dissimilar.  The 
rid^s  are  of  dijflferent  forms  and  ^es.  On  the  deep-striled  lands  they  w^re  f<Hmerly 
wade  very  high»  broad,  and  crooked ;  but  upon  such  lands  as  have  been  reoendy 
brought  into  ddtivation,  they  are  straight,  nearly  flat,  and  in  general  about  twelve  or 
fifteen  feet  broad.    On  dry  lands  they  are  quite  nat»  and  alternately  gathered  and  split 

Fallows  a»e  generally  ^ou^ed  bsfore  winter,  to  meliorate  by  the  frost.  In  the 
inidd}e  of  Apr^  or  be^ning  of  May,  those  that  are  intended  for  turnips  or  potatoes 
are  harrowed  and  ploughed  across,  and  where  necessary  rc^ed  witih  a  neavy  roUer ; 
and  the  same  operations  repeated  two  or  three  times,  or  until  it  is  suiBcieatl^  fine  and 
«lean  for  blowing  or  planting.  Every  exertion  is  made  to  extirpate  the  quickens,  or 
oouch-^mss.  The  lime  aaad  manure  is  laid  on  generally  before  the  last  ploughing. 
Fallows  for  wheat  generally  receive  four  or  five  ploughings  tluough  the  summer,  but 
a^e  iseldam  haiix)W)ed«  it  being  thought  an  advantage  to  the  wheat  to  have  the  land 

Thie  ge^f  ml  custom  far  barley  is  to  plou^  once ;  the  best  cultivators,  however, 
Bfid(Hn  sow  this  ^^n  without  giving  the  land  three  nloughings ;  especially  when  it 
ip  to  be  Si^wed  with  dover  and  grass  aeeda.  Ev^ry  otner  species  of  grain  is  flenarally 
fOwn  after  one  ploui^ng,  except  where  beans  or  peas  are  to  be  dnUed.  A  furrow 
Ipiine  inches  Wad,  and  six  inches  deep,  is  necessary  in  plou^iing  the  first  time  for  fal- 
low (m  gfpm  «Fops.  Indeed,  ptoughmg  to  the  depth  (rf  ten  or  twelve  inches  would 
J^  found  in  many  oases  highly  advantageous.  But  in  tihe  soudi^n  jperts  of  this  coun- 
ty time  {^ou^hing  is  almost  invariably  too  shallow.  Trench  ploughing,  though  so  ex- 
eell^nt  a  mode  of  br^ing  up  grass  land  on  dayey  soils,  is  seldom  practised  where  it 
would  be  most  advantageous.  This  may  perhaps  arise  from  the  weak  teams  kept  by 
many  of  our  farmers. 

On  s|ich  soils  as  are  found  improper  £oir  turnips,  the  naked  fallows  still  prevail,  with 
an  almost  univarsal  opinion  that  it  is  necessary  to  the  fertility  of  the  land.  The  most 
skilful  agriculturists  are,  however,  of  opinion,  that  the  long-established  f^actice  of  fal- 
lowing, in  another  century,  will  be  totallv  abolished,  if  no  fortuitous  eircamstanee 
arise  to  check  the  exertions  and  spirit  for  improvements  which  have  become  so  gene- 
rally diffused  through  this  district,  and  the  kingdom  at  largef . 

*  In  the  Agricultural  Survey  of  this  County,  the  writers  express  their  surprize  at  seeing  immense  dung- 

fiills,  the  accumulation  of  unnumbered  years,  probably  centuries,  lying  at  the  doors  of  the  shepherds'  houses, 

upon  the  hill  farms  around  Cheviot     Many  of  them  have  ingenioushf  contrived  to  build  their  houses  near  a 

'  hum^'Side,'  for  the  convenience  of  having  it  taken  away  htf  every  flood!    These  traits  of  barbarism  are,  how- 

'  ever,  wearing  away,  and  many  now  employ  their  manure  in  a  very  proper  manner.— i2qM>r/,  p.  ISO. 

f  Mr.  TuU  has  shewn,  that  by  cultivating  leguminous  crops  drilled'  at  wide  distances,  so  as  to  admit  of 

frequent  and  deep  ploughing,  to  which  if  proper  hand-hoeing  be  added,  the  land  will  be  as  well  prepared  for 

wheat  as  if  it  had  been  a  complete  naked  fallow. — See  also  Northnm.  Rep.  p.  68. 4*  Cobheti's  Year's  Resid.  p.  98. 


NORTHUMBEBLAND.  18» 

Rotation  a/*  Crops. — ^Various  systems  of  husbandry  have  been  tried  in  this  county. 
The  best  cuitivatois  use  the  foUowing  rotations,  according  to  soil*  situation,  and  cir«> 
cumstances.  On  clayey  soils  fallow,  wheat,  ciover  for  one  or  two  years,  beans  or  pease. 
On  the  dry  strong  loams,  turnips,  barley,  clover,  and  grass  seeds  for  two  or  three 
years,  oats,  beans  or  pease,  wheat  drilled.  But  the  rotation  on  sandy  and  dry  light 
loams  is,  after  being  ploughed  out  from  grass,  oats,  turnips  drilled,  barley  or  wheat 
drilled,  hoed  and  sown  up  with  dover  or  grajss-seeds,  depastured  with  sheep,  and  a 
small  proportion  of  eatde,  for  three  or  more  years.  The  alternate  system  of  nusban- 
dry  on  nch  soils  is  found  most  productive,  but  the  convertible  system  does  not  so 
readily  ^^  tire  the  jsoiL"*  Three  years  arable  and  three  years  grass  is  therefore  very 
general ;  by  tihis  mode  Nature  has  time  to  prepare  a  sufficient  leanclod,  which  being 
turned  up  tor  the  turnip  fallow,  ensures  a  vigorous  crop  of  turnips,  as  they  always 
flourish  upon  fresh  lancU  or  whare  they  find  the  remains  of  a  lea-dM  to  vegetate  in« 

CrMs. — ^The  preparation  for  the  greatest  quantity  of  wheat  raised  in  this  county  is 
nakea  summer  fallow ;  of  late  years  considerable  quantites  have  been  grown  after 
turnips ;  it  is  also  grown  after  rape,  dover,  beans,  pease,  tares,  and  potatoes. 

Wheat  is  grown  in  considerame  qutfitities^  and  includes  many  varieties.  They 
may  be  divided  into  two  orders,  viz.  the  emooth^chaffed^  and  the  downy-cha^ed ;  of 
the  former  the  principal  varieties  are  the  Zealand^  White  Kent,  Golden-Ear  and  Bur« 
well  Red ;  and  those  of  the  latter  are  the  Woolley-£ar,  and  the  Velvet-Ear.  The 
downy^dliaffed  kinds  are  thought  most  proper  for  windy,  open  situations ;  and  the 
smooth^haffed  for  well  shdit^ed  enclosed  districts.  Of  late  years  the  Bur  well  Red 
has  been  much  used,  especially  upon  new  or  crude  soils,  witib  great  success ;  and  the 
Velvet-Ear  upon  rich  soUs,  where  there  is  danger  of  the  crop  lodging. 

The  seed  is  selected  with  great  attention,  aim  the  practice  of  changing  it  is  thought 
advantageous.  Steeping  in  chamber-lye  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  and  powdering  witii 
q^uick-lime  immediately  after,  to  make  it  suifidently  dry  for  sowing,  is  generally  prac- 
tised ;  and  it  is  observed,  that  the  smut  is  seldom  seen  where  this  is  properly  per* 
formed.  The  quantity  sown  varies  from  two  to  three  bushds  per  acre,  broad-^cast ; 
but  those  who  use  the  drill  find  coe  bushel  and  a  half  per  acre  amply  sufficient  The 
practioe  of  drilling  is  gradually  extaiding  in  thia  county.  The  produce  (JU£fer9  ac- 
cording to  circumstanoes :  from  94  to  30  bushels  per  acre  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  ave- 
rage crop ;  yet  instances  have  occurred  when  it  was  as  high  as  from  50  to  60  bushels 
per  acre. 

Rye  was  formerly  the  principal  wnin  grown  upon  all  the  dry,  sandy,  and  l^ht 
soils ;  but  since  the  use  of  Hme,  and  the  introduction  of  turnips  anwd  artificial  grasses^ 
it  is  rar^y  cultivated  in  this  district,  except  upon  very  sandy  soils.  Maslin  la  sown 
in  some  parts  of  the  county.  A  bushel  of  this  mixture  of  wheat  and  rye  weu^ksi 
heavier  tnan  a  bushel  of  either  good  wheat  or  good  rye  separately.  The  crops  of  £r« 
ley  are  generally  very  productive.  It  is  usuafiy  sown  after  turnips,  and  is  cultivated 
in  drills  Dy  a  few  farmers  in  the  northern  parts.  The  common  tong^^eared  barley  is 
the  kind  most  commonly  grown.     Oats  are  universally  cultivatea  throughout  the 

*  The  regular  return  to  clover  crops  is  now  deemed  injurious ;  and  an  eminent  seedsman^  Mr.  Falla^  thinks, 
that  the  use  of  clover  has  declined  in  this  district  about  one-half  within  the  last  twentj  years.  Beans  and 
pease  are^  however,  more  cultivated  than  formerly. 


140  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

county ;  they  are  sown  after  every  species  of  grain,  as  well  as  grass  or  dover  lea. 
They  include  many  varieties,  hut  the  JPoland  and  the  potatoe  oats  are  in  the  highest 
estimation.  Those  grown  in  Glendale,  it  is  said,  are  of  so  excellent  a  quality,  as  to 
be  sold  in  the  London  market  und^  the  denomination  of  Berwick  oats,  for  Is.  6d« 
per  quarter  more  than  any  other  oats  presented  there.  The  quantity  sown,  in  gene- 
ral, is  six  or  seven  bushels  per  acre,  according  to  the  kind  sown,  and  other  circum- 
stances, and  the  average  produce  is  from  20  to  60  bushels  per  acre. 

Beans  have,  time  immemorial,  been  a  prevailing  crop  upon  all  the  strong  lands  in 
the  county,  espedaJly  along  the  sea  coast  to  the  southward :  they  generalfy  succeed 
wheat,  dover,  or  old  grass,  and  are  drilled  by  all  good  cultivators.  The  produce  is 
very  uncertain :  twenty  bushels  per  acre  is  considered  a  fan*  avera^  broad-cast  crop. 
Pease  are  mostly  sown  upon  exhausted  lands.    Both  spring  ana  winter  Tares  are 

frown  upon  the  fallow  lands  intended  for  wheat  or  late  turnips.  The  varieties  of 
otatoes  cultivated  here  are  very  numerous,  and  the  quantities  considerable.  The 
sorts  most  in  repute  for  the  table  are  three  or  four  different  kinds  of  long  whites,  par- 
ticularly the  red-neb.  The  pink-eye,  or  red-streak,  is  a  late  potatoe,  and  much, 
esteemed  for  eating  in  the  spring.  For  stock,  the  principal  kinds  used  are  the  cham- 
pion and  the  black  potatoes.  Potatoes  prepared  by  steam  are  given  to  cattle  and 
sheep,  but  prindpally  to  horses,  being  found  serviceable  for  preventing  grease  or  other 
disorders,  by  keeping  them  cool  and  open* 

Turnips  have  been  used  in  this  county,  as  food  for  supporting  cattle  and  sheep, 
nearly  one  hundred  years.  For  this  purpose  they  were  first  grown  in  the  northern 
parts  of  the  county,  it  being  long  before  they  were  introduced  into  Tjmeside.  At 
their  first  introduction  they  were  sown  broad-cast,  and  hoed  by  gardeners  and  other 
men  at  extravagant  wages.  The  late  Mr.  Ilderton,  however,  above  sixty  years  ago, 
first  reduced  the  price  of  noeing  by  teaching  boys,  girls,  and  women,  to  perform  3ie 
work  equdly  as  well,  if  not  better  than  men.  His  method  was  simple  and  ingenious: 
by  a  light  plough,  without  a  mould-board,  he  divided  the  field  into  small  squares  of 
equal  magnitude,  and  directed  the  boys  and  girls  to  leave  a  certain  number  of  pknts 
in  each  square.    In  a  short  time  they  became  accurate,  regular,  and  expert  hoers. 

Turnips  are  now  generally  and  successfully  cultivated.  A  good  crop  usuaUy 
weighs  n*om  S9  to  30  tons  per  acre ;  though  about  50  tons  have  occasionally  been 

f  It  has  been  contended,  that  considering  the  small  proportion  of  flour,  or  nutritious  matter,  oontained  hi 
potatoes ;  the  uselessness  of  the  haulm ;  the  trouble  of  gathering',  housing,  and  keeping ;  the  risk  of  loss  by 
frost ;  and  the  enormous  expenditure  of  fuel  and  time  in  cooking,  this  root  is  really  dearer  than  bread. 
Some  writers  on  Political  Economy  have  also  pointed  out  the  danger  of  making  potatoes  a  principal  article  of 
food.  "  They  are  raised/'  say  they,  '^  at  too  little  expence,  and  as  the  average  rate  of  wages  is  always  pro- 
portipn^  to  the  price  of  tjie  necessaries  of  life,  people  whq  subsist  on  potatoes  are  placed  upon  the  very  verge 
of  e^^stence^  In  a  period  of  scareity  they  cannot  retrench*  and  must  therefore  fall  a  sacrifice  to  famine.  The 
want,  Ae  redundant  population,  and  the  degraded  habits  of  the  Irish,  may  in  a  great  measure  be  attributed 
to  the  general  extension  of  the  potatoe  husbandry."  Nothing,  it  must  be  confessed,  can  be  more  calculated 
to  engender  slovenly  and  dirty  habits  than  the  practice  of  lifting  the  principal  food  at  once  from  the  earth  to 
the  mouth.  Mr.  £.  Wakefield  recently  stated  to  the  Agricultural  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  that, 
in  liis  opinion,  the  increased  cultivation  of  potatoes  was  "  injurious  to  the  country/'  But  happily,  the  cusp 
torn  of  allotting  to  labourers  a  "  potatoe  ground/'  in  part  payment  of  their  wages^  1$  not  much  known  in  Nor« 
ihumberland. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  141 

raised  upon  an  acre.  The  variety  called  the  White  Top,  or  Globe,  is  in  the  greatest 
repute,  being  superior  to  either  the  Green  Top,  or  the  Red  Top,  in  size  and  s^eet- 
nesss.  Nothing  can  more  clearly  evince  the  general  discernment  of  the  Northumber- 
land farmers,  than  the  alacrity  with  which  they  embraced  the  present  excellent  mode 
of  drilling  turnips ;  which  has  not  only  increased  the  value  of  land,  and  improved  the 
system  of  feeding,  but  caused  many  parts  of  the  county  to  assume  the  aspect  of  ia 
weU-cultivated  garden.  It  was  about  the  year  1780,  that  the  nractice  of  drilling  tur- 
nips was  first  introduced  into  this  county,  since  which  there  nas  not  been  wanting 
instances,  upon  thin,  poor  light  soils,  where  the  crop  of  turnips  was  of  more  value 
than  the  fee-simple  of  the  land  upon  which  they  grew. 

The  cultivation  of  Ruta-Baga^  or  Swedish  turnips,  has  rapidly  extended  in  this 
county  within  the  last  few  years,  the  peculiar  properties  of  this  invaluable  root  being 
now  generally  understood.  In  the  spring  months  it  has  dways  been  diiRcult  to  pro- 
vide food  for  sheep  and  cattle.  The  common  turnips  grow  hght,  less  succulent,  and 
even  rots ;  whereas  Ruta-Baga  may  be  preserved  perfectly  good  till  May.  Indeed,  it 
is  not  fully  ripe  until  February.  This  nlant  is  also  incomparably  more  nutritive  than 
common  turnips,  and  are  given  with  advantage  to  sheep,  cattle,  swine,  and  horses. 
All  our  great  tup-breeders  admit,  that  the  common  turnip  will  not  fbed  sheep  so  fat 
as  this  excellent  plant*. 

Rape  is  seldom  grown,  either  for  sheep  or  for  seed ;  though  the  late  Mr,  Culley 
found  it  an  excellent  substitute  on  poor  clayey  soils.  Cabbages  are  crown  by  a  f^w 
principal  farmers ;  but  the  cultivation  df  Carrots  ia  very  confined,  and  that  of  Flax  is 
now  almost  totally  abandoned. 

The  Com  Harvest  in  the  vale  of  Till,  and  upon  Tyneside,  near  Hexham,  frequently 
begins  the  first  week  in  August ;  while  \vpoa  the  cold  backward  soils  and  situations^ 
oats  wiU  be  often  uncut  the  latter  end  of  October,  or  beginning  of  November ;  but 
the  most  general  harvest  is  in  September.  Most  of  the  com  is  cut  with  sickles,  by 
women ;  seven  of  whom,  with  a  man  to  bind  after  them,  generally  reap  two  acres  per 
day,  Barley  and  oats  are  sometimes  mown.  Com  is  now  seldom  allowed  to  stand 
till  it  be  dead  ripe. 

.  Wheat  is  set  up  in  stooks  of  twelve  sheaves  each ;  oats  and  barley  are  **  gated,**  set 
up  in  single  sheaves ;  and  when  dry,  bound  tight  at  the  bottom,  and  led  home,  or  set 

*  It  has  been  aacertained  by  experiments^  that  17  tons  o#Rata«Baga  is  equally  valuable  as  a  crop  of  com* 
mon  turnips  of  31  tons.  Some  good  cultivators  in  the  south  have  adoped  the  Tullian  distance  of  Ibur  feet 
between  the  top  of  the  ridges^  as  being  a  space  necessary  Ibr  deep  and  dean  ploughing.  No  ground,  it  is 
alledged,  is  lost,  as  the  crop  is  heavier  than  when  the  rldgts  are  narrow,  and  almost  every  indi  fbU  of  roots 
and  shaded  by  leaves.  Tran^lanting  mto  newfy^laughed  dry  ground  has  also  been  recommended,  whera 
hands  can  be  obtained,  as  giving  move  time  fer  preparing  the  land,  saving  much  of  the  culture,  insuring  a  crop 
from  the  ravages  of  Xbejfy,  and  giving  regularity  and  room  to  the  plants.  Mr.  Bailey  said,  that  he  practiced 
transplanting  with  suocess,  but  he  was  not  aware  of  the  impropriety  of  tnmsplanting  when  the  land  is  in  a 
nMM<  state. 

In  the  year  1784^  Mr.  Ralph  Annett,  late  of  Alnwick,  being  on  a  visit  to  his  fathei^in-law.  Dr.  Hamilton, 
at  Dunbof,  obtained  some  seeds  of  the  Ruta-Baga  from  the  Doctor,  and  afterwards  frequently  sent  to  Got* 
tenburgfa  lor  a  ftesh  supply.  This  pertu^s  was  its  first  introduction  into  this  county,  for  its  culture  was  v^ry 
Un^tted  ii^  11(99 ;  and  it  was  long  cbecked  by  the  depredations  of  hares  and  ring-doves,  that  preferr^  this 
plant  to  any  other  turnip. 

VOL.  I,  8  N 


Un  GENEBAIy  DESGIilPTJQN  OF 

I 

up.  in  ^^toQ^f  of  ten  sheaves  each.  The  stEid^a  are  mostly  xonM ;  but  some  of  t;he  best 
turipers  set  np  their  Iwrley  a^d  wh^t  in  long  narrow  st^cl^t  which  \eep  the  com 
lav^ch  \ff^\^Tm^dir\eF.  The  excellent  practice  of  placing  com  upon  stone  or  metal 
pUl^s,  yffHAi  a  cs^  or  cov^  over  them,  (to  keep  out  the  mioe)*  and  a  frame  of  wood 
qy^p  4l»  i^  ri^dly  g^ing  ground.  When  the  i^tack^  are  in  aanger  of  heatixig  from 
w^l;  harvest  weatner,  they  are  ventilated  by  pernendicular  and.  lateral  funnelfi. 

.  Old  G^<^^  Xxfnds  s(re  usually  manured  on  tue  surface  every  third  or  fourth  year^ 
4p4  mown  almost  every  year.  When  they  cannot  be  conveniently  dungedt  they  are 
4gpasti|]red  twp  yesrs  ana  mowii  th^  third.  Lands  that  are  intended  for  meadow  are 
*^  freed"  (from  being  depastured  with  any  kind  of  stock)  in  the  spring.  The  after* 
mB\hf  pr  *'  fog/*  is  mostly  consumed  in  fattening  oxen  and  cows.  Natural  pastures 
are*  xx^o^t  prevalent  along  the  sesa*Qoast. 

Th/^  Cul^a^d  Grasses  most  commonly  raised  in  this  county,  are  red  clover^  white 
clover,  ^id  ray-grassb  With  these  some  people  mix  rib-grass,  and  upon  sandy  soils 
hop-medic  is  sown  with  success,  ]ftay  grass  is  considered  ♦  very  severe  crop  tor  the 
scdl.  Few  of  these  grai^ses,^  except  red  dpver,  ar?  ev^r  grown  alo^e^  The  aye]:age 
prpdu^  of  doyers  kept  fpr  bay  is  about  two  tons  per  acre.  The  ^^icond  crop. is  gene- 
i;9lIP|y  depas|tufed  by  9att]le  03:  sheep.    A  mix^  stock  is  found  most  useful  m  grazing. 

The  May  Harvest  is  seldom  begun  before  the  middle  of  June.  The  mowers: cut 
from  balf  9n  acre  to  threp  fuarters^  a  day,  wd  til»t  y^  ill ;  th^  hay-makers  are  equfdly 
in^plent  and  inac^ve.  4^i^  th|^  grass  is.  gi4^  it  i^,  t^ed*  atrQwad.  and  jcepeatedly 
^ijimed,  till  diry ;  but  to.  preserve  th?  leaves  upon  Ihe  dover,  it  is  merely  turned  back- 
wards and  forwards  upon  the  swath.  The  hay  is  next  put  into  foot-cocks,  and  in  a 
day  or  \^9  after,  if  the  wether  keeps  fw,  it;-  ip  put  into  larger  cocks.  When  siaf- 
n^ntly  dry,  it  is  fop^ed  ifipp  iiickl?^  (pikes),  apd  after  stan^ng  a  few  weeks  is  led 
home,  ^nd  put  into  Iwg^  stacks* 

J^ve  Stoch-r^lt  is  to  their  superior  knowledge  of  breeding,  and  nice  discrimination 
Vi  selecting  proper  stock,  as  well  as  to  their  improved  mo&  of  cultivatioH,  that  the 
Northumberland  farmers  owe  that  celebrity  of  character  which  they  have  qi^uuied  lor 
their  proficiency  i^  ruval  affaju^ 

I  By  the  e^ertipns^  aii(d.9'ttentioiii  of  our  enterpiazing  breederst  the  short-homed  catttle 
are  improved  so  far  as  to  be  sold  fat  to  the  butehers  at  three  years  of  age.  Bulls  are 
sometimes  let  for  the.  season  iSor  an  eppin^iou^s  su}n»  said  five  giuneas  af  e  given  ff^  Sfsiv- 
i^g  a  cow ;  but  tl^  snore  common  premium  is  a  guw^9t  Breeding  young  cattle  is 
practised  in  almost  ev^ry  piart  of  the  counjty.  Cows  are  kqpt  upon<  &rge  fanna  priur 
cipally  for  thiB  puipose^  Qxen  are  mostly  grazed  in  the  eastern  pai>k  of  the  cgunty. 
and  a  few  in  the  vicinity  of  Whittingham ;  they  aire  bought  in  Mav  co*  Jime^  and; 
sphl  as  they  become  ready,  to  supply  the  large  fleets  of  ceffiers:  and  othar  trading  vefr« 
sels  belpnging  to  Newcastle,  Shields,  Sunderiand,  Hsortley,  and  Bly th. 

Dairy. — ^This  county  cannot  boast  of  its  dairies :  those  who  live  in  the  viekuty  of 
Newcastle,  and  other  populous  places,  make  a  handsome  return  by  the  sale  of  milk, 
fresh  butter,  &c.  but  upon  most  of  the  large  farms  in  the  county,  dlairies  are  not  hdd 
in  much  estimation. 

Sheep. — There  are  few  or  no  sheep  bred  in  those  parts  of  the  county  called  Castte 
Ward,  Bedlingtonshlre,  and  the  south-east  comer  of  Morpeth  Ward.    The  stock  of 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  148 

this  county  has  been  so  much  improved  within  the  last  fifty  years,  that  they  now  can 
be  sold  fatter  at  fifteen  months  oid  than  they  used  to  be  at  more  than  double  that  age. 
This  advanta^  has  been  sained  by  the  piuctice  of  hiring  tups,  at  no  inconsiderable 
prices ;  sometimes  as  high  as  five  huncured  guineas  for  the  use  of  one  tup  for  the 
season.  This  has  cherished  the  spirit  of  emulation,  by  inducing  a  number  of  compe- 
titors to  enter  the  lists. 

The  improved  breed  of  long-wooUed  sheep  is  usually  managed  as  foUows : — ^The 
ewes  generally  lamb  in  March,  when  they  are  given  a  few  turnips  to  encrease  their 
milk.  About  the  beginning  of  July  the  lambs  are  weaned,  and  sent  to  tolerable  pas- 
ture. The  ewes  are  milked  two  or  three  times,  to  ease  their  udders ;  and  such  as  are 
not  to  be  continued  for  breeding,  are  culled  out  and  put  to  clover  or  turnips,  and  sold 
about  ChnstwfiM  t^  the4)qitclp[c«s|  irerr^  jfat  The  tamW,  after  bdiff  'W^oim,  take  Hie 
name  of  Hags.  They  are  generally  kepf  on  turnips  through 'tie  winter  and  spring, 
after  which  the  wether  hogs  are  put  on  good  pasture.  The  second  winter  they  have 
turnips,  until  the  clovers  are  grown.  _  The  fattening^  (qualities  of  the  Swedish  turnip 
being  now  well  known,  they  are  alwiays  used*f5r' spring  food.  In  the  middle  of  May 
they  are  shorn,  and  by  the  end  of  JUne^  they  are  generally  all  sold.  But  shearling 
wethers  have  lately  been  sold  toloinbiy  iit^»  jfaawhgy^uly,  when  only  fifteai  months 

The  mode  of  management  amongst  the  sheep  farmers  of  Cheviot  is,  to  divide  their 
flocks  into  di£Gnreht  parcds,  viz.  lanibs^  )k)^  giiktei^ri,'  efwes  mA  wethers,  and  each 
parcel  kept  on  such  pasturage  as  is  thought  most  proper  for  them.  Every  parcel  is 
attended  by  a  sheph^,  who  is-  bound  ta  return  the  number  of  sheep  delivered  to 
him,  either  alive  or  in  his  account  of  dead  sheep,  which  are  in  generaf  scud  at  different 
prices,  according  to  their  goodness.  Th^  ewe»  are  two  years  and  a  half  old  before 
they  are  put  to  the  tup,  and  are  kept  till  five  or  six  years  old.  The  Ios»  of  lambs  is 
sometimes  very  considerable,,  not  only  on  being  dropped^  but  also  from  the  "  milk  iB," 
*'  (j^uarter  iU,"  and  other  disorders.  The  sheep  that  are  kept  on  the  moorlands  tlMat 
skirt  the  river  Coquet  and  Reedwatei^  are  the  most  sulneet  to  the  io€.<  The  pyaoliM< 
of  salving  is  now  almost  totally  disused ;.  and  that  of  milking  ewes  is  also  newly 
abandoned.  This  last  custom  is  considered  as  highly  detrimental,  as  it  keeps  the  ewes 
lean,  and  renders  them  the  les»  capaUe  of  meetitig  the  severities  of  winter. 

The  zeaX  and  unremitti^g  attention  of  our  breeders  and  graziers  to  the  impi^vement 
of  their  Eve  stock,,  have  been  productive  of  considerable  profit  ^  themselves :  and  at 
the  lor^  butcher  markets  of  Kewcastie  and  Shields,  such  shows  e£  fine,  beautiful  flesh 
are  exhibited,  a&  are  not  to  be  surpassed  in  any  other  part  of  Ekigland. 

A  few  years  ago  an  agricultural  association,  under  the  patron^e  ctf  Kis  Grace  the 
Duke  of  Northumberland,  called  "  The  Tyneside  jigricuUural  Society^'' rwB;^  establish-^ 
ed  at  Ovingham  ;  but  at  the  annual  meeting  this  year  (1822)  the  members  seemed 
convinced  ef  the  propriety  of  suspending  their  meetings.  The  present  depressed  state 
of  agrixjulture  has  also,  (as  that  distinguished  agriculturist,  Wm.  Jobson,  Esq.  of  New- 
ton, observes),  "  induced  slovenly  and  carelesi^  habits  of  management,  in  order  to  lessen 
the  expence  of  cultivation.''  The  causes  of  this  unfortunate  diange  wilt  however, 
be  but  temporary. 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION 


COUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLANB, 


PART  III. 


TRADE,  MANUFACTURES.  AND  COMMERCE. 

^ANY  various  bmnches  of  trade  and  manufacture  are  carried  on  in 
Northumberland,  including  the  populous  towns  of  Newcastle  and 
Berwick,  and  whdch  have  conduct  to  encourage  agriculture,  and 
and  to  difiuse  life  and  activity  through  every  rank  of  society.  AU 
the  principal  manufactures  are  derived  from,  or  connected  with, 
,  the  coal  and  lead  mlnee :  and  though  most  of  the  attempts  to  esta- 
blish works  for  the  manufacture  of  woollen  and  cotton  have  mis- 
carried, yet  few  parts  of  England  are  possessed  of  so  many  conveniences  and  advan- 
tages for  such  establishments. 

That  amiable  French  philosopher,  Faujas  Saint  Fond,  on  entering  this  county,  ex- 
pressed the  agreeable  astonishment  he  felt  in  examining  the  numoer  and  variely  of 
our  manufactures.  "  The  soul,"  exclaims  he,  "  feels  a  lively  satisfaction  in  contem- 
plating such  a  magnificent  picture ;  and  humanity  rejoices  to  see  so  many  men  find- 
ing ease  and  iiappiness  in  a  labour  (the  coal  trade),  which  so  extensively  contributes 
at  the  same  time  to  the  enjoyments  and  comforts  of  others  ;  and  in  the  last  result,  to 
the  aggrandizing  and  enriching  of  the  government,  which  watches  over  the  safety  of 
the  whole." 

In  describing  the  produce  and  manufactures  of  this  district,  it  is  intended  to  notice 
such  only  as  are  remarkable  for  extent,  or  peculiar  to  the  county.  In  this  enumera- 
tion Coal  claims  the  pre-eminence,  as  being  the  source  of  the  immense  trade  and  re- 
venue which  enriches  Northumberland,  "  This  chearftil  contributer  to  the  comforts 
of  human  life"  not  only  constitutes  the  basis  of  British  manufacture,  but  is  "  also  qf 
the  greatest  consequence  as  a  nursery  for  brave  and  hardy  seamen," 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  I4d 

Having  in  a  preceding  part  given  a  sketch  of  the  natural  history  of  coal,  and  the 
practice  of  coal-mining,  it  now  remains  to  describe  the  manner  in  which  this  invalua* 
We  fossil  is  conveyed  from  the  pit's  mouth. 

Mode  of  raising  Coals ^  and  conveying  them  to  the  River. 

When  coals  are  brought  to  the  pit  bottom  the  corves  or  baskets  are  hooked  on  to  a 
ehain,  and  drawn  to  the  surface  by  a  rope  attached  to  a  machine.  The  species  of  en- 
gines  called  Gins^  (probably  a  corruption  of  engine),  are  used  only  in  landsale  collie* 
Ties,  or  in  seams  of  moderate  depth,  since  the  invention  of  steam  engines.  One  of 
them,  engraved  in  Emerson's  Mechanics,  has  the  roller  immediately  over  the  shaft, 
which  is  also  the  centre  of  the  horse  track.  In  the  whim  gins  the  ropes  run  upon 
two  puUies  over  the  shaft,  but  the  roller  is  at  some  distance,  and  the  circular  tract  of 
the  horses  is  at  one  side  of  the  shaft,  leaving  the  other  free  for  the  teeming  or  delivery 
of  the  coals*. 

Steam  Engines  (originally  called  Fire  Engines),  are  used  in  all  the  extensive  coal* 
works  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Newcastle.  This  wonderful  machine  is  an  invention 
highly  creditable  to  human  genius  and  industry,  and  exhibits  the  most  valuable  ap* 
phcation  of  philosophical  principles  to  the  arts  of  life.  The  use  of  steam  in  mechanics 
was  discovei^  when  almost  all  the  valuable  mines  in  England  were  coming  to  a  stand 
for  want  of  more  powerful  and  cheaper  machines  than  were  then  known.  This  in* 
vention  was  therefore  readily  adopted  in  most  colliaies,  and  many  were  opened  in 
situations  where  it  would  have  been  impossible  before. 

Steam  was  first  employed  to  produce  motion  by  Brancas,  a  philosopher  of  Rome, 
about  the  year  1628.  But  the  first  real  steam  engine  for  nosing  water  is  described  in 
a  small  pamphlet  published  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II:  and  in  the  year  1668,  ^ititled, 
"  A  Century  of  the  Names  and  Scantlings  of  the  Marquis  of  Worcester's  Inventions, 
written  in  the  year  1655."  No  use  was  made  of  this  invaluable  hint,  until  Captain 
Savary,  in  1698,  obtained  a  patent  for  an  engine  which  operated  both  by  the  expan- 
sive ;and  condensive  force  of  steam,  to  be  employed  in  "  draining  mines,  serving  towns 
with  water,  and  for  working  all  sorts  of  millsf ."    Though  thes^  engines  were  erected 

*  Manj  curious  machines  and  contrivances  have  been  uoed  in  working  coal  mines.  James  VI.  of  Scotland, 
about  the  year  1600^  granted  a  patent  to  a  predecessor  of  the  first  earl  of  Balcarras^  for  inventing  an  engine 
for  drawing  water  out  of  coal  mines. — AmoC^  Hist,  ofEdin.  p.  66.  In  Rymer's  Foedera  we  find  an  exclusive 
grant  given  in  l630,  to  one  David  Ramsay^  for  raising  ^ater  by  a  new  method  out  of  deep  mines.  Master 
Beaumont  brought  with  him  (says  Grey  in  hi?  Chorographia)^  "rare  engines  to  draw  water  out  of  the  pits." 
In  the  life  of  Lord  Keeper  North,  dated  \676,  are  the  following  curious  notices.  **  The  coal  mines  in  Lum- 
ley  Park  are  the  greatest  in  the  north,  and  produce  the  best  coal.  These  collieries  had  but  one  drain  of  wa- 
ter for  two  engines,  one  of  three  stories,  the  other  of  two^  all  the  pits  fbr  two  or  three  miles  togedier  were 
drained  into  these  drains.  The  engine^  are  placed  in  the  lowest  places,  that  there  may  be  the  lest  way  fat 
the  water  to  rise ;  and  if  there  be  a  running  stream  to  work  the  engines,  it  is  happy." 

t  This  useful  projector,  according  to  Dr.  Harris,  in  the  same  year  invented  anodier  madiine  ^  for  row«i 
ing  a  ship  in  a  calm  by  paddle  wheels  plaeed  at  the  veasel  si^es."  Dr.  Desa£pli«rs  has  not  done  justice  t^ 
the  memory  of  this  truly  ingeniona  xuan, 

VOL.  I. — (7)  2  O 


us  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

about  gentlemen's  gardens  and  pleasure  ^ounda^  the  attempt  to  render  them  applica- 
ble to  mining  purposes  failed.  Th<Nnas  Newcomen,  ironmonger,  and  John  Cowley^ 
glazier,  of  Dartmouth,  in  the  county  of  Southamptcm,  obtain^  a  patent  in  1705,  for 
improvements  made  in  the  steam  engine,  and  in  which  Captain  Savary  was  admitted 
to  participate.  About  171S»  the  pat^itees  succeeded  in  rendering  their  invention 
useful  in  mechanics.  Mr.  Henry  Beighton  erected  an  improved  Newcomen  engine 
at  Newcastle,  in  1718.  He  was  the  first  that  reduced  the  operations  of  steam  engmes 
to  calculation  ;  and  was  a  mathematician  as  well  as  an  engmeer.  He  conducted  the 
Ladies'  Diary  from  1714  to  1744. 

The  first  steam  engine  erected  in  the  north  was  at  Oxclose,  near  Washington ;  the 
next  at  Norwood,  near  Ravensworth.  About  the  year  171S,  or  1714,  the  mrst  steam 
engine  in  Northumberland  was  erected,  at  Byker  colliery,  the  property  of  Richard 
Ridley,  Esq.  The  engineer  was  the  reputed  son  of  a  Swedish  nobleman,  who  taught 
mathematics  in  Newcastle*. 

Many  of  the  collieries  are  situated  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  river,  to  which 
the  coals  are  conveyed  in  a  manner  equally  simple  and  ingenious.  Way-leaves,  or 
slips  of  ground,  are  set  out  and  hired  on  leases,  or  purchased  by  the  diflfer^it  coal- 
owners,  of  the  proprietors  of  land  lying  between  their  pits  and  the  river,  and  this  in 
such  a  direction  as  gives  the  most  easy  and  regular  descent  The  inequalities  of  this 
slip  of  ground  are  levelled,  and  square  wooden  rails  laid  in  two  right  pi^allel  lines,  and 
firmly  pegged  down  on  wooden  sleepers.  The  tops  of  the  rail  are  plaioi^  sno^ootfa 
and  round,  and  sometimes  covered  with  platai  of  wrought  ironf .    About  the  year 

*  That  able  and  candid  engineer,  Smeaton,  added  aeveral  new  and  ingenioas  contrivances  to  Newcomen's 
engine.  In  1774,  he  built  a  powerfal  engine  at  Long  Bentoi  colliery,  which  had  a  5S-inGh  cylinder,  stroke 
7  feet.  ^  In  1769^  Mr.  James  Watt,  a  mathematical  instrument  maker  at  Glasgow,  obtained  a  patent  foe  his 
.great  invention  of  performing  condensation  in  a  separate  vessel  from  the  cylinder.  Many  inventions  have 
'since  that  time  been  made  for  electing  a  saving  and  better  application  of  steam.  In  1815,  it  was  found, 
taking  the  average  of  S3  engines,  that  31j500,00(Ab.  of  water  was  raised  one  foot  high  for  every  bushel  of 
coals  consumed.  But  Mr.  Woolf,  by  one  of  his  engines,  has  raised  56,91 7,31  Slbs. !  (See  Phil.  Mag.  vol.  46, 
and  47.)  We  have  some  steam-engines  calculated  at  130  horse  power;  but  one  is  now  building  at  Friar's 
Goose,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Tyne,  calculated  to  be  equal  to  200  horse  power. 

t  The  origin  of  waggon-ways  cannot  be  precisely  ascertained.  In  the  year  l600,  among  other  regulations 
xaade  "at  a.  Courte"  of  the  hostmen's  company,  wains  were  ordered  to  be  all  measured  and  marked,  for  it  ap- 
peared, "  that  from  tyme  out  of  mynd  y t  hath  been  accustomed  that  all  cole  waynes  did  iftuallie  cary  and 
bring  eighte  boulls  of  oolea  to  all  the  staythes  upon  the  ryver  of  Tyne,"  but  of  late  several  had  brought  only 
or  scarce  seven  bolls.  The  same  record  mentions  *'  two  small  maunds  or  pannyers  holdinge  two  or  three 
pecks  a-piece."  From  which  passages  it  plainly  appears  that  coals  at  this  time  were  not  only  led  in  carts 
along  the  ordinary  roads,  but  that  a  practice  then  prevailed  of  conveying  them  on  horse-back.  Among  the 
r^ 'of  the  ''rare  engines"  introduced  by  master  Beaumont  into  the  coal  trade,  one  was  "  Waggons  with  one 
horse,  to  carry  down  coales  from  the  pits  to  the  staiths  to  the  river."  Lord  Keeper  Guilford,  in  I676,  thus 
describes  them :  *'  The  manner  of  the  carriage  is  by  laying  rails  of  timber  from  the  colliery  down  to  the 
river,  exactly  straight  and  parallel ;  and  bulky  carts  are  made  with  four  rowlecs,  fitting  these  rails,  whereby 
the  carriage  is  so  easy,  that  cme  horse  will  draw  down  four  or  five  chaldron  of  coals,  and  is  an  immense  bene* 
fit  to  the  coal  merchants."    Froma  staith  bill,  dated  I69I,  in  the  books  at  Ravensworth  Castle,  and  quoted  in 


NORTHUMBEBLAND.  147 

1786,  cdBt-iron  rail-ways  wexe  introduced  as  an  improvemeBt  upon  the  tram  or  wooden 
ra^-way.  But  this  form  has  of  late  years  been  almost  superceded  by  the  introduction 
of  the  edge-rail.  This  mil  consists  c^  separate  bars  of  cast  iron  usually  four  feet  Icmg, 
and  weigning  from  42lb.  to  54lb.  each,  the  ends  resting  on  metal  chairs  mounts  on 
stone  deq[>ers,  and  so  contrived,  tliat  if  a  prop  should  vary  from  its  perpendicular  po- 
sition, the  rails  still  x>res«rve  their  ^ane,  and  bear  as  before  upon  the  props  or  pedes^ 
tab* 

Th»e  are  varicius  means  eonployed  to  omvey  coals  to  the  river  adapted  to  the  aodi- 
vity  and  declivity  of  the  rail-ways.  On  a  road  nearly  level  horses  are  generally  used; 
and  one  faime  is  found  capable  cf  drawing  10  tons  12cwt  travelling  24  imles  a  day,  half 
with  the  loadem  and  half  with  the  empty  waggons.  When  the  declivity  is  between 
half  an  inch  and  an  ineh  in  a  yard,  fixed  engines  are  used,  where  the  preponderance 
of  the  loaded  waggons  drags  the  rope  after  mem,  which  is  subsequently  made  use  of 
to  draw  the  returning  waggons  up  the  plane.  But  when  the  declivity  is  great,  the 
prepondenmoe  of  the  loa&d  carnages  not  <mly  overhauls  the  rope,  but  alM>  with  it 
the  empty  carriages  up  the  plane.  In  this  case  it  is  called  a  self-actii^  plane. 
When  vxB  surface  is  undulating  and  varied,  reciprocating  or  fixed  engines  are  some- 
times used.  In  tiiis  mode  an  engine  is  ^ced  at  each  extremity  of  the  road  to  be 
travdled  over,  one  engine  drawing  the  carriages  f<»ward  in  a  directikm  towards  itself, 
and  witii  them  a  rope  from  the  other  engine,  whidi  rope  in  its  torn  puUs  the  same  or 
otlier  waggons  by  means  of  the  other  engine  bade  agam,  and  also  a  rope  therewith. 
The  excess  of  preponderance  in  the  loaded  waggons  is  applied  to  assist  the  engine  in 
overcoming  the  resistance  of  the  other  train  of  waggons.  On  the  Killingworth  rail- 
road locomotive  engines  are  used.  One  of  these  engines,  it  is  stated,  draws  twelve 
waggons  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour  for  twelve  hours  each  day.    The  locomo- 

Bailey's  Survey  of  Durham,  it  appears  that  coals  were  then  led  bj  waggons  to  Team  staith.  *  About  this  time 
the  consumption  of  Newcastle  coals  had  become  so  considerable^  that  several  coal  mines,  as  Kenton,  Benwell, 
Jesmond,  &c.  gave  emplojrment  to  400  or  500  carts  or  other  carriages  each,  for  conveying  tlie  produce  of 
those  pits  to  the  water  side. 

*  In  1817,  Mr.  William  Losh,  of  Newcastle,  iron-founder,  and  Mr.  Cxeorge  Stephenson,  of  Killingworth, 
engineer,  obtained  a  patent  for  certain  improvements  in  the  mode  of  joining  and  fcing  die  ends  of  the  ndls 
of  which  edge^railways  are  formed ;  but  other  founders  profess  to  obtain  the  same  advantages  by  Various 
other  inventions.  Mr.  John  Hawkes,  of  Gateshead,  also  took  out  a  patent  for  an  invention  calculated  to  render 
rail-ways  stronger  and  more  durable  by  forming  the  surface  of  cast-iron^  and  the  back,  or  under  part,  of  mal- 
leable iron.  In  1^20,  Mr.  John  Birkinahaw,  of  Bedlington  iron- works,  proposed,  in  the  qiedfication  of  a 
patent,  instead  of  the  ordinary  cast-iron  bars^  to  substitute  wedge-formed  rails  of  malleable  iron,  consisting  of 
pieces  of  rolled  iron  18  feet  long  each,  the  ends  to  be  welded  when  laid  down.  The  objection  urged  against 
malleable  iron  rails  is  that  they  are  more  subject  to  oxidation  than  metal  rails.  From  recent  experiments^  re* 
ferred  to  in  Mr.  B.  Stevenson's  Report  of  the  Edinburgh  Rail-way,  it  has  been  ascertained,  that  upon  an 
tdge-raUnay  one  horse  can  work  with  a  much  greater  load  (in  the  proportion  of  10  to  7)>  than  upon  a  tramr 
way*  The  cost  of  one  mile  of  raiUroad  for  chaldron  waggons,  with  sidings,  fencing,  culverts,  &c.  (exclusive 
of  the  purchase  of  land),  is  usually  estimajted  at  from  L 1000  to  L  1200.  It  is  surprising  that  rail-roads 
should  have  been  so  long  almost  confined  to  the  use  of  collieries.  They  possess  many  advantages  over  canals, 
which,  in  winter  are  very  liable  to  freeze,  and  in  sununer  to  want  water. 


148  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

tive  machines  on  Wylam  rail-road  travel  with  nine  waggons  at  a  much  quidkar  pace. 
A  stranger  is  naturally  struck  with  the  imposing  appearance  of  an  engine  moving 
without  animal  power,  with  celerity  and  majesty,  along  a  road  with  a  number  of 
loaded  carriages  in  its  train*. 

The  coal-waggon,  which  is  formed  like  an  inverted  prismoid,  is  moved  on  four 
wheels  of  cast  iron,  and  has  a  false  bottom  hung  with  hinses,  and  fastened  by  a  hasp. 
When  the  waggon  has  arrived  at  the  staithf ,  the  hasp  is  Knocked  out,  and  the  coals 
fall  into  a  spout  below,  which  conveys  them  into  the  ships  or  keels,  or  into  a  store- 
house underneath.  The  coals  in  falling  through  the  spout  make  a  noise  which  at  a  dis- 
tance resembles  a  clap  of  thunder.  But  at  some  staiths  the  waggons  are  now  lowered 
down  by  a  machine  to  the  ship's  deck,  and  discharged  at  once  into  the  hold  without 
breakage  or  waste.  A  strong  crooked  lever  of  wood,  called  a  Convoy ^  or  Tiller^  is  ap- 
plied  to  both  the  hind  wheels  of  the  waggon,  in  descents  where  no  h<H:se  is  required, 

^  In  the  year  1798>  the  late  Mr.  Barnes  erected  an  inclined  plane  at  Benwell,  upon  which  a  loaded  wng* 
gon  descends  from  the  pit  to  the  river,  a  distance  of  864  yards,  in  two  minutes  and  a  half,  and  reascends 
in  the  same  space  of  time.  The  impelling  and  resisting  power  of  motion  is  derived  from  a  plvmmet  of  16( 
cwt.  which  the  waggon  in  descending  and  ascending  raises  and  lowers  to  the  depth  of  144  yards.  Mr. 
Blenkinsop,  who  resides  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Leeds,  a  pupil  <^this  ingenious  Viewer,  in  18U  obtained  a 
patent  to  a  locomotive  engine  with  wheels,  the  teeth  of  which  wrou^t  in  with  the  teeth  of  iron  rails,  con« 
structed  for  the  purpose.  This  machine  was  tried  in  some  collieries  here.  Mr.  W.  Chapman,  of  Newcastle, 
engineer,  and  Mr.  £.  W.  Chapman,  of  Willington  Ropery,  in  1814  obtained  a  patent-right  to  an  invention 
consisting  of  a  chain  stretched  along  the  road  to  be  travelled  over,  and  properly  secured,  while  by  the  motion 
of  a  self-moving  machine,  it  was  wound  round  a  barrel  or  grooved  wheel,  by  which  means  the  carriage  at- 
tached to  the  chain  was  necessarily  drawn.  Mr.  Benjamin  Thompson,  of  Ayton  Cottage,  has  lately  obtained 
a  patent  for  facilitating  the  conveyance  of  carriages  by  fixed  reciprocating  engines,  which  plan  is  in  operation 
pn  Birtley  Fell ;  and  be  calculates  that  the  cost  of  conveying  a  ton  one  mile  is  24-100<^. ;  while  by  locomotive 
engines  it  would  be  44-i00(/.  and  by  horses  51-lOOJ.  On  Uie  contrary,  Mr.  Nicholas  Wood,  of  KiUingworth, 
where  locomotive  engines  were  adopted  by  Mr.  George  Stephenson  above  six  years  ago,  affirms,  that  the  com- 
parative-cost  is  horses  SS^lOOd. ;  reciprocating  engines  63-lOOe?. ;  and  by  locomotive  power  only  20-lOOd.l 
(Nenc,  Mag.  for  Apr,  May,  June,  1822  J.  Perhaps  the  eligibility  of  these  different  plans  may  be  best  deter- 
mined by  the  description  of  road  to  be  travelled  over.  Here  it  would  be  improper  to  pmit  mentioning  a 
curious  self-moving  machine,  called  an  Iron  Horse,  erected  a  few  years  ago  by  Mr.  Brunton,  at  Newbottle 
colliery,  with  legs  to  assist  it^  ascent  and  to  retard  its  descent.  The  movements  of  this  engine  excited  much 
surprize;  but  unfortunately,  when  ^bpttt  to  be  exhibited  to  some  scientific  gentlemen^i  the  boiler  bunt,  and 
0ever4  lives  being  lost,  the  invention  was  abandoned, 

+  Statb^,  stade,  and  steed,  are  Anglo-5^on  terms  formerly  applied  to  single  fixed  dwellings,  or  to  places 
on  the  banl^s  of  rivers,  where  merchandise  was  stored  up,  and,  at  which,  vessels  could  lie  to  receive  it.  In 
1338,  the  prior  of  Tynemouth  let,  for  two  years,  at  40s.  a  year,  a  plot  of  ground,  in  Newcastle,  upon  which 
sea^coal  had  been  usually  laid  up,  apd  which  was  at  the  west  head  of  a  house,  upon  the  Statlies,  which  in  mo- 
dem language  is,  as  if  one  said^  upon  the  fvharf,  or  upon  the  quay.  In  a  lease  of  a  colliery  at  Els  wick,  executed 
in  1538,  provision  was  made  for  ''sufficient  Way  leve  and  Stathe  leve."  The  '^  BUck  Steath"  stood  near 
Hebbum  Colliery,  and  is  the  only  one  marked  on  the  map  of  the  river  Tyne,  prefixed  to  Gardiner's  Eng- 
land's Grievance,  which  was  first  published  in  1655.  Tliese  places  were  also  formerly,  and  are,  even  yet,  by 
the  keelmen,  called  Dikes,  probably  on  account  of  their  bein^  diked  ox  defended  from  the  riv^<-^<Braff4|  vo/« 
ii,p,  256,  et,  seq, 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  149 

and  which  regulates  its  velocity.  Eadi  waggon,  by  statute,  holds  a  chaldron  of  eoals, 
or  53cwt. ;  and  the  waggon  itself  generally  weighs  21cwt.  They  are  mostly  made  of 
wood,  though  some  are  now  made  of  sheet  iron*. 

A  very  peculiar  kind  of  vessels  is  in  use  upon  the  Tyne  for  carrying  eoals  from 
the  staiths  to  the  ships.  These  heels^  as  they  are  called,  are  strong,  clumsy,  and 
heavy.  Sometimes  they  are  navigated  with  a  square  sail,  and  steered  by  a  boy ;  but 
generally  by  two  very  long  oars,  one  on  the  side,  plied  by  two  men  and  a  boy,  the 
other  at  the  stem,  by  a  single  man.  This  last  is  esdled  the  swape^  and  serves  both  as 
oar  and  rudder.  When  the  water  is  shallow,  and  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  sails  or 
oars,  they  are  navigated  in  the  following  manner,  with  long  poles  or  nuys :  each  man 
going  after  one  another  towards  the  prow,  puts  down  his  pole  to  the  bottom,  in  a  jpo- 
sitiion  inclined  towards  the  head  of  the  keel,  at  the  same  time  thrusting  against  it  for- 
dbly  with  his  shoulder,  and  walking  down  on  the  gangway  towards  tne  stem,  as  the 
keel  moves  under  him ;  by  these  means,  assisted  by  the  swape,  it  gains  a  tolerably 
quick  and  even  course  on  the  water.  Having  walked  the  whole  length  of  the  vess^, 
they  pluck  up  the  puys,  return  hastily  to  the  prow,  put  them  down  again,  and  thrust 
as  beforef . 

The  coials  are  cast  into  the  vessels  by  the  keelmen,  with  large  shovels.  As  many 
of  the  vessels,  when  light,  are  considerably  above  the  keels,  this  work  requires  a  great 
exertion  of  physical  power.    But  formerly  the  labour  of  ca[sting  was  much  greater 

*  By  the  old  bcx>ks  of  the  Ho«tiiiiiii's  Company,  it  wgfpeaxs  that  in  16OO,  the  coal-waggons  did  not  cany 
ha]f  of  the  present  quantity.  At  first  they  were  emptied  with  shovels.  When  a  loaded  waggon  breaks  down 
it  causes  a  great  stop  to  the  other  waggons,  and  is  called  by  the  waggon-men  ''  A  could  (i.  e.  cold)  pU*" 

Various  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  eanatructian  of  waggon  wheels.  They  are  now  cast  whole 
und  case-hardened.  This  simple  but  ingenious  operation  was,  it  is  said^  first  perform^  by  ^x.  Mar]^  Elliott, 
of  Painshaw  Forge. 

^  Ceoi,  as  weiras  Seiprnn^  was  a  general  term  for  ships  among  the  Anglo-Saxons  ;  though  it  seems  we 
should  fetch  the  origin  of  the  word  ]^tl  from  kdes  of  the  Greeks,  and  the  celox  of  the  Romans*-a  small  swift 
aailing  vessel.  By  statute  of  the  9th  of  Henry  the  V.  cap.  10.  commissioners  were  appointed  to  measure  the 
portage  of  keels  on  the  river  Tyne.  Before  that  time  they  had  been  usually  made  to  contain  twenty  chal* 
drons  a-piece ;  but,  as  persons  not  franchised  of  Newcastle,  paid  a  duty  of  2d.  per  chaldron  to  the  king,  in 
in  order  to  evade  a  part  of  it,  they  encreased  the  portage  of  their  keels,  unknown  to  the  officers  of  the  royal 
revenue :  this  statute,  therefore,  went  to  order  the  true  portage  to  be  marked  upon  all  these  vessels,  on  pain 
of  forfeiting  them.  At  present  they  are  limited  (by  11  and  15  Gea  III.)  to  85§  tons  of  lading,  or  S  New. 
castle  chaldrons  of  coals.  The  stvape  is  probably  so  called  from  its  great  power,  as  the  old,  upright  dioms, 
which  were  wrought  by  a  lever,  and  a  half  revolving  axle,  were  called  swape-diums.    Chaucer  says,-^ 

And  swappe  the  firyer  with  biicai)  rodde. 
Suipau,  in  the  Icelandic  tongue,  means  a  quick  motion ;  and  to  swap  the  door,  in  common  language^  is  as 
much  as  to  say,  shut  it  violently.    The  pole,  called  a  pooey,  is  a  word  seemingly  aldn  to  appHjf,  the  name  of 
the  balancing  pole  of  the  Frendi  rope  dancers. 

Fifty.five  keels,  carrying  140S  tons,  have  been  loaded  at  one  staith  in  a  day.  Upon  the  Wear,  the  coala 
belonging  to  some  collieries  are  now  teemed  into  itoq  tubs^  eight  of  which  ocntain  a  dialdran,  |n  which  they 
are  conveyed  down  the  river,  and  lifted  either  by  a  fixed  or  a  fioatiqg  marhihe,  ii^tq  the  hold  of  Ae  ship^ 
where  they  are  emptied* 

VOL.  I,  8  P 


1^  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

than  at  preBant,  €br  (the  hcdflb  of  the  kedls  wepe  much  belaw  the  guimeb ;  now  ihey 
•aro'dnly  cibout  twenty  inches  itoxn  them,  but  have  a  contrivance  caQed  a.  stage,  to  en- 
large tnem  on  three  sides  with  boards,  which  can  be  raised,  lowered,  or  entirely  taken 
awuy,  according  to  the  bulk  of  the  lading. 

•  ^ 

€kymmereUd  HUtory  ^  Coal. 

Those  invaluable  blade: .  diamonds,  called  Cwls^  which  have  enriched  tfak  northern 
district,  seem  to  have  been  known  ito  the  eoocaient  Greeks.  Theophrastus,  the  scholar 
oif  ArigtDtle,  about  flOOO  yeains  ago,  in  describing  litbanthraXf  or  stone  coal^says,  ^'  Those 
fossil  substanoes  that  aare  called  coals,  and  are  broken  for  use,  are  earthy  ;  th^  kindle, 
however,  aaid  bum  like  wood  coals*/'  Some  uacvE^gine  that  they  have  found  a  descrip- 
tion of  coal  in  .the  writings  of  Pliny ;  but  the  ^ancients  were  frequently  so  incorrect  m 
their  dassifioation  bofeh  of  senera  and  species,  aa  to  render  their  descriptions  in  natural 
'history  extremely  confusea  anid  equivocal 

'  The  primev^  Britons  were  induputably  acqwunted  with  this  fuel,  which,  accord- 
ing to  Fennant,  they  called  Glo.  One  of  their  celts  was  found  in  a  coal  vein  exposed 
to  the  day^  in  Craig  y  Bare,  in  Monmourt^shire.  Cassar,  indeed  takes  lio  jiotiee  of 
<coal  in  his  ^description  of  this  island;  but  the  Rcoaoans  subsequently  ^isc^vered  its  use. 
^be  caksareous  floorii^  used  in  their  botha  <at  X4an€hQSter,  .and  Bt  several  of  their  sta- 
tions on  the  line  of  the  Roman  Wall,  is  often  intimately  mixed  with  coals,  both  in 
tiieir  natural  state  and  in  dnders«  Wallis  mentions  very  large  coal  dnders  being 
turned  up  within  the  walls  of  MagKia  or  Caarvosan^  in  17<i2t «  ^^  hearths  and  slak- 
ing-trougfas  of  smitheries  have  been  disoo^iared  amMigst  euders  and  ashes  lof  ooals,  in 
the  ruins  of  the  station  at  Lanchesterj:.  Above  thirty  yiears  since,  abuadaoiee  oi  cop- 
per naUs,  an  iron  hammer,  and  other  impl^nents  of  a  smith's  shop,  weoe  foiuftd  burial 
m  small  ashes  of  coal,  within  the  foundations  of  a  small  circular  building,  on  the  side 
of  Watling-street,  near  Low  Wood-side,  about  three  miles  south  of  Ebdiester.  Whit- 
aker  informs  us,  that  in  the  west  riding  of  Yorkshire,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
North  Brierly,  are  many  beds  of  cinders,  heaped  up  in  the  fields,  m  one  of  which  a 
number  of  Roman  coins  was  found  some  years  ago ;  and  Camden  mentions  a  Roman 
.  [Station  in  Northamptonshire,  where  coals  were  used.  Horsley  was  also  dearly  of  opi- 
.  nion,  that  tibe  Romans  actually  worked  a  colliery  at  Benwell.  Add  to  ^  this,  that 
Siculus  Flaccus  enumerates  coals  among  the  artides  buried  in  the  earth,  over  which 
boundary  tumuli  were  raised ;  and  they  are  frequently  discovered  in  such  situations 
in  Engimd.  Fop*  this  custom,  St.  Ai^gustine  assigns  this  pertinent  reason :  ^  Is  it 
not-a  wonderful  thing,  that  though  coals  are  so  britue,  that  with  the  least  blow  they 
break,  with  the  least  pressure  they  are  crushed  in  pieces ;  yet  no  time  can  destroy 
them ;  insomuch  that  they  who  pitch  landmarks  are  wont  to  throw  them  underneath, 
to  convince  any  litigums  person,  who  shall  aiBrm,  though  ever  so  long  after,  that  no 
landmark  was  theref" 

*  HilFs  TheoplmstuB,  p.  62.        t  Ifist.  of  Northuvib.  ^dL  1,  p.  119*        t  Bnnd^  v«l.  ii.  p.  249. 

§  Brit  Rom.  p.  209.    Strutt*&  Man.  vol.  1,  p.  60.    Pict.  Ncwc.  p.  217. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  161 

From  a  grant  mxide  by  the  Abbe^  of  PeteiiKorough,  dated  852,  and  quoted  by  the 
industrious  and  learned  Whitaker,  it  is  evid^it  that  coals  were  used  as  fuel  in  this 
country  by  the  Saxons*.  No  i^ention  is  made  of  this  fossil  during  the  turbulait  pe« 
riod  of  the  Danish  usurpation,  nor  far  many  years  after  the  Norman  conquest.  In 
fact,  the  use  of  fossil  coal  seems  to  have  been  totally  abandoned ;  for  in  the  Leges  Bur- 

Sorum  of  Scotland,  enacted  about  the  year  1140,  a  particular  privilege  is  granted  to 
giose  who  bring  wood,  tur^  or  peat,  into  boroughs;  but  coal  is  not  mentioned,  though 
these  laws  were  made  at  Newcastle  upon  Tynef . 

Noxtliuniberland  gradually  recovered  from  the  dreadful  effects  of  the  Danish  and 
Norman  hostility,  and  obtained  a  charter  for  the  licence  of  di^^i^^g  coak  from  Eong 
Henry  III.  in  tne  vear  1239 :  it  was  there  denominated  sea-codT;  and,  in  1318,  New- 
castle was  famous  for  its  great  trade  in  this  article ;  but,  in  1306,  the  use  of  sea  coai 
was  prohibited  in  Londoi^  from  its  supposed  tend^icy  to  corrupt  the  air.  Shortly 
after  this,  it  was  the  common  fuel  at  tne  king's  palace  in  London  ;  and,  in  1325,  a 
trade  was  opened  between  Frackce  and  England,  in  which  com  was  imported,  and 
coals  exported.  In  1379,  a  duty  of  sixpence  per  ton  was  imposed  upon  ships  coming 
from  Newcastle  with  coals.  At  this  period,  tne  inhabitants  of  the  coimty  of  Duriiam 
had  obtained  no  privilege  to  load  or  unload  coals  on  the  south  side  of  the  Tyne ;  but, 
in  1384^  Richard  II.  on  account  of  his  devotion  to  Cuthbert,  the  tutelary  saint  of 
Durham,  granted  them  licence  to  export  the  produce  of  their  mines^  without  paying 
any  duties  to  the  corporation  of  Newcastle.  In  the  year  1421,  it  was  enacted,  that 
the  keels  or  lighters  carrying  coals  to  the  ships  should  measiu:e  exactly  twenty  chal*- 
drons,  to  prevent  frauds  in  me  duties  payable  to  the  king.  In  the  Household  book 
of  the  fiftii  earl  of  Northumberland,  dated  1512,  sixty-four  loads  of  great  wood  w&ce 
allowed  in  the  year,  "  because  oolys  will  not  byrne  withoute  wodd  ;*'  which  circum- 
^liance  seems  to  prove,  that  the  coal-owners  had  not  yet  discovered  or  found  means  to 
win  '^  the  main  coaL" 

About  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century,  the  best  coals  were  sold  in  London  at 
the  rate  ef  4s.  Id.  per  chaldron,  and  at  Newcastle  for  about  2s.  6d. ;  and  in  1563,  am 
act  was  passed  in  Scotland  to  prevent  the  exportation  of  coals,  th^e  being  a  great 
deartii  of  fuel  in  that  country^.  Qiueen  Eli^sabeth,  in  the  year  1582,  obtained  alease 
of  B  great  |>art  of  the  mines  of  Durham,  for  ninety-three  y^ar^,  at  the  annual  rent  <^ 

*  The  SiffODswiKQetisies  called  ccmIs  GrsaSm,  and  tba  gcant  hen  slloded  to  is  **  UQ9tf  fMnr  fpNt^^n!* 
|[03isaD'«  Saxon  Quran,  p.  7S.)  The  aimilacitf  of  die  nioDe  of  coal  in  the  northern  lengiuifpe  sod  diiAacta 
is  remsrkalde.  In  the  Anglo-^Saxon  Col;  in  the  Teatoaaic  Kol,  Kehl ;  in  the  Dntdi  Kole ;  in  t|be  OmMi 
K«l;  moaog  the  Irish  Ongal;  sod  eoioiig  the  Cornish  KoUoi. 

t  Amof  8  Hbt  of  Edinh.  p.  82,  et  seq. 

« 

X  Harrison's  Description  of  England,  prefixed  to  Hollinshead'a  Chronicle,  edited  in  the  year  1577>  contains 
some  curious  and  interesting  notices  concerning  the  coal  trade.  **  Of  oole-mines  (says  ttua  quaint  writer)  we 
Jiare  euch  plenty  i^  the  north  jand  western  parts  of  oar  island,  as  may  suffice  for  aU  the  reahne  of  Englande. 
And  soe  must  they  doe  hereafter  indeede,  if  woode  be  not  better  cherished  then  it  is  at  this  present:  and  to 
say  the  truth,  notwithstanding  that  very  many  of  them  are  carryed  into  other  countryes  of  the  maine,  yet 
tbieyr  greatest  tisde  beginneth  to  gcowe  from  the  foige  into  the  Idtchen  and  hpdk,  as  may  appeare  alreacfy  in 
most  cities  and  townes  that  lye  about  the  cost,  where  they  have  little  other  fewell,  excepte  it  be  turfe  an^ 


1««  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

£  90,  which  occasioned  an  advance  in  the  price  of  coals.  It  was  afterwards  assigned 
to  Thomas  Sutton,  the  founder  of  the  Charter-House  in  London,  who  assi^ed  it  to 
the  corporation  of  Newcastle,  for  the  sum  of  £  12,000 ;  and  the  price  of  coals  was  im- 
mediately advanced  to  seven  shillings  and  eight  shillings  per  chaldron.  Notwith- 
standing the  several  advances  upon  this  article,  when  Queen  Elizabeth  demanded  the 
arrears  of  2d.  per  chaldron,  which  bad  been  granted  to  Henry  V.;  but  the  payment  of 
which  had  been  neglected  by  the  corporation,  they  petitioned  for  a  remission  of  the 
debt  on  account  of  their  inability*.  This  was  granted,  and  also  a  dbarter  to  incorpo- 
rate the  old  guild,  called  hostmenf ,  or  coal  engrossers,  for  selling  all  coals  to  the  ship- 
Sing ;  in  consequence  of  which  the  corporation  imposed  one  shminff  per  chaldron  ad- 
itional  upon  this  article.  At  this  period  the  Iprd  mayor  of  Loncbn  complained  to 
the  lord  treasurer,  Burleigh,  that  the  fiw  hosts  in  Newcastle,  to  whom  the  grand  lease 
of  Elizabeth  had  been  assigiied,  for  the  \i§e  of  the  tqwn,  had  transferred  their  right 
to  a  few  persons,  who  engrossed  all  the  pth^r  collieries,  and  he  requested  that  the  col- 
lieries might  be  fre^,  and  that  the  price  of  qoals  should  not  exceea  seven  shillings  per 
chaldron. 

During  the  reign  of  King  James,  in  1610,  an' information  was  exhibited  in  the  star- 
chamber,  by  the  attorney-general,  against  the  mayor  and  burgesses  of  Newcastle,  by 
the  name  of  hostmen,  for  that  they,  having  the  pre-emption  of  coals  for  the  inheritora 
in  Northumberland,  and  the  county  of  Durham,  by  their  charter  of  the  42d  of  Eliza- 
beth, forced  ships  to  take  bad  coals,  amongst  which  was  a  quantity  of  slate ;  in  con- 
sequence of  which  they  were  all  fined,  some  of  them  in  penalties  of  one  hundred 
pounds  each,  and  committed  to  the  Fleet  prison  ;  and  the  decree  was  ordered,  to  be 
read  in  the  open  market  in  Newcastle,  two  several  market-days. 

In  1615,  there  were  employed  in  the  coal  trade  of  Newcastle,  400  sail  of  ships,  one 
half  of  which  supplied  London,  the  remainder  the  other  part  of  the  kingdom.  The 
French  too  t^re  represented  as  trading  to  Newcastle  af.  this  time  for  cod*  in  fleets  of 

hassocke."  He  then  goes  on  to  contrast  the  manners  of  former  tunes  with  those  of  his  own :  '*  Now  we  hsve 
nanye  diimnyes^  and  yet  our  tenderlings  complaine  of  rewmes^  catarres  and  poses ;  then  had  we  none  but 
reredosses,  and  our  heioles  did  never  ake.  For  as  the  smoke  in  those  days  was  supposed  to  be  a  sufficient 
hardning  for  the  timber  tsi  the  hoase«  so  it  was  reputed  a  far  better  medicine  to  keep  the  good  man  and  his 
family  fVom  the  qoacke  or  pose,  wherewith  as  then  very  few  were  acquainted."  Our  historian  proceeds  :-— 
'*  There  are  old  men  yet  dwelling  in  the  village  where  I  remain,  whidi  have  noted  the  multitude  of  chimnies 
lately  erected,  whereas  in  their  yoong  dayes  there  were  not  above  two  or  three,  if  so  many,  in  most  uplandish 
townes  of  the  realme  (the  religious  houses  and  mannour  places  of  their  lordes  alwayes  excepted,  and  perad- 
venture  some  great  personages)  but  each  one  made  his  fire  against  a  reredosse  in  the  halle  where  he  dined 
and  dressed  his  meate :"  and,  in  all  the  bitterness  of  Horace's  LaudatiMr  preteriti  Temporis,  adds,  ''  when 
oure  houses  were  buylded  of  willowe  then  had  we  oken  men,  but  nowe  that  our  houses  are  come  to  be  made 
of  oke,  our  men  are  not  only  become  willow,  but  a  gr^atmapy  altogether  of  straw,  which  is  a  sore  alteration." 

*  Mr.  Brand  informs  us,  that  the  Corporation  of  Newcastle  annually  received  L  10,000  in  the  latter  end  of 
the  reign  of  Queen  EUzi^beth,  i^m  a  duty  of  4d.  a  chaldron  on  coals  idiipped  fhxn  their  port.— Hwf.  qfNewc. 
vol.  U.  p,  269. 

f  This  society  is  also  called  JPi^firri,  In  their  books  (1 600) '<  to  fltt  any  keell/*  and  to  ''ftt  and  load 
^oles,"  occur. 


NORTHUMBEELAND.  153 

50  sail  at  once,  serving  the  ports  o£  Picardy,  Normandy,  Breta^e,  and  as  far  as  Ro- 
chelle  mA  Bourdeaux,  idnle  the  ships  of  Bremen,  Embden,  Holland,  and  Zealand, 
were  supplying  the  inhabitants  of  Flanders^**^. 

In  16S2,  an  order  was  issued  by  the  hostm^n,  against  the  secret  and  disord^ly  load- 
ing of  coals,  but  not  until  they  had  received  several  precepts  from  the  king  ana  privy 
council  concerning  this  abuse.  They  were  summoned  to  answer  again,  by  process 
from  the  exchequer  chamber,  against  the  governor,  stewards,  and  some  otha"S  of  the 
company,  for  the  above  default ;  and  as  we  are  not  informed  of  the  result  of  this  pro* 
eeeding,  we  may  conclude  that  it  did  not  terminate  in  their  fayour.  In  the  year 
1630,  me  king  let  to  farm  an  impost  on  coals  of  5s.  per  chaldron,  for  those  transported 
out  of  England,  Wales^  and  Berwick  upon  Tweedy  to  any  part  beyond  the  seas,  ex- 
cept  Guernsey,  Jersey,  and  the  Isle  of  Man ;  cf  Is.  8d.  over  and  above  the  5s.  on 
those  to  be  exported,  as  above,  by  any  Englishman ;  and  also  of  8s.  4d.  for  every 
chaldron  to  be  exported,  except  for  Ireland  and  Scotland.  In  1681,  an  information 
was  again  made  in  the  star-chamber,  by  Heath,  attorney-general,  against  the  hostmen 
of  Newcastle,  for  mixing  40,000  chaldrons  of  coals  with  slates,  &c. :  from  whence  it 
seems,  that  the  former  mies  and  imprisonment  had  no  effect,  but  that  they  had  still 
proceeded  to  cheat  the  metropolis  and  the  country  at  large,  even  after  those  sevare 
measm-es  of  government.  A.  D.  1684,  the  kinff,  solely  by  his  own  authority,  im- 
posed a  duty  of  four  shillings  per  diaMron  on  all  sea-coal,  stone-coal,  or  pit-coal,  exi. 
ported  from  England  to  foreign  parts. 

In  1637,  one  shilling  per  chaldron  appears  to  have  been  paid,  on  the  foreign  vend 
of  coals,  to  the  mayo?  of  Newcastle  and  corporation.  Government  being  applied  to 
for  redress,  letters  were  sent  to  the  bishop  of  Durham,  requiring  him  to  write  to  the 
said  mayor,  and  order  an  immediate  restoration  of  the  above  exaction ;  the  bishop's 
letter  is  dated  10th  of  January,  1638.  About  this  time  King  Charleg  successively 
granted  to  different  companies  the  sole  power  of  selling  coals  exported  from  the  Tyne, 
which  monopolies  contributed  greatly,  with  other  grievances,  to  hurt  his  interests 
with  the  people  of  England. 

In  1643,  when  the  Scots  besieged  Newcastle,  all  the  coal-mines  were,  it  is  said,  or- 
dered to  be  set  on  fire,  which  was  prevented  by  General  Leslie,  who  took  the  vessels 
by  ffurpri^e.  In  the  following  year,  in  consequence  of  the  marquis  of  Newcastle  hav- 
ing prohibited  the  exportation  of  coals  to  London,  they  rose  to  the  enormous  price  of 
sevesn  pounds  per  chaldron ;  and,  in  1648,  coals  were  so  excessively  dear  in  London, 
that  many  of  the  poor  are  said  to  have  died  for  the  want  of  fuelf .    In  November, 


*  1%  18  stated  in  Stowe's  Anioali,  published  in  l63$,  that  in  consequence  of  a  great  scarcity  of  wood^  /'  not 
only  the  city  of  London,  all  haven  townes  and  in  very  many  parts  within  the  land,  the  inhabitants  in  general 
are  ccmstrained  to  make  their  fiera  of  sea  coale  or  pit  coale ;  even  in  the  chambers  of  honourable  personages 
and  through  necessitie,  which  is  the  mother  of ;b11  arts,  they  have  of  very  late  years  devised  the  making  of 
iron,  the  making  of  all  sorts  of  glasse  and  burning  of  bricke  with  sea  poaleor  pit  coale, — Within  thirty  yearea 
hist  the  nioednvis  of  Ixxidon  would  not  oome  into  any  house  or  roome  where  sea .  cpales  were  bpmed,  nor 
wiliagly  out  4f(th^  meat  that  was  either  sod  or  roasted  with  sea  coal  fire." 


i  About  this  time,  l649i  ^^Jt  in  his  Chorographia,  gives  a  ipost  interesting  account  of  the  Newcastle 
coal  trade.     *'  Manv  thousand  people,"  says  he,  "  are  employed  in  this  trade  of  coals ;  many  live  by  working 

VOL.  L  g  Q 


15*  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

1653,  articles  were  again  exhibited  against  the  town  of  Newcastle^  concerning  the  coal 
trade ;  and  the  cause,  as  usual,  given  against  them.  In  1667,  coals  are  said  to  have 
been  sold  in  London  for  above  20s.  a  chaldron :  about  880  keels  were  at  that  time 
employed  upon  the  river  Tyne,  in  the  coal  trade,  each  of  which  carried  annually  800 
chaldrons,  Newcastle  measure,  on  board  the  ships.  In  1658,  the  customs  upon  all 
coals  exported,  were  let  to  Mr.  Martin  Nowel,  at  £  22,000  per  annum,  of  which  sum 
£  19,783  14s.  8d.  were  for  the  coals  of  England,  and  £  2,216  5s.  4d.  for  those  of  Scot- 
land. Commissioners  were  now  appointed  by  the  Lord  Protector,  under  the  great 
seal  of  England,  for  the  measuring  of  keels,  which  was  performed  in  a  new  and  better 
manner  than  had  been  before  known.  In  December,  1667,  the  parliament  made  an 
order,  that  the  price  of  coals,  till  the  25th  of  March  following,  should  not  exceed  SOs. 
per  chaldron  ;  and  by  an  act  made  that  year,  after  the  great  fire  in  London,  a  duty  of 
one  shilling  per  chaldron  was  granted  to  the  lord  mayor  of  that  city,  to  enable  him  to 
rebuild  churches,  and  other  public  edifices.  This,  however,  being  insufiident,  it  was 
made  three  shillings,  to  contmue  twenty  years*     In  1677,  Charles  II.  granted  to  the 

tiiem  in  the  pits ;  many  live  by  conveying  tiiem  in  waggons  and  wains  to  the  river  Tine ;  numy  men  are 
employed  in  conve3ring  the  coals  in  keels^  from  the  staiths^  a-board  the  ships :  one  ooal-merdiant  employeth 
five  hundred,  or  a  thousand,  in  his  works  of  coal,  yet,  for  all  his  labour,  care,  and  cost,  can  scarce  live  of  his 
trade ;  nay,  many  of  them  have  consumed  and  spent  great  estates,  and  died  beggars."  After  adverting  to 
the  great  hazard  attending  the  working  of  silver  mines,  he  adds,— '*  So  it  is  with  our  coal-miners ;  they  la^ 
bour  and  are  at  great  charge  to  maintain  men  to  work  their  collieries ;  they  waste  their  own  bodies  with  care, 
and  their  collieries  with  working ;  the  kernel  being  eaten  out  of  the  nut,  there  remaineth  nothing  but  the 
shell ;  their  collieries  are  wasted  and  their  monies  consumed.  This  is  the  uncertainty  of  mines ;  a  great 
charge,  the  profit  uncertain.  Some  South  gentlemen,  upon  hope  of  benefit,  come  into  this  country  to  haxaid 
their  monies  in  coal-mines.  Mr.  Beaumont,  a  gentleman  of  great  ingenuity  and  rare  parts,  adventured  into 
our  mines,  with  his  L  80,000,  who  brought  with  him  many  rare  engines,  not  known  then  in  these  parts ;  as 
the  art  to  bore  with  iron  rods,  to  try  the  deepness  and  thickness  of  the  coal ;  rare  engines  to  draw  water  out 
of  the  pits ;  waggons  with  one  horse  to  carry  down  coals  firom  the  pits  to  the  staiths,  to  the  river,  4^.  within 
a  few  years  he  consumed  all  his  money,  and  rode  home  upon  his  light  horsie.  Some  Londoners,  erf*  late,  have 
disbuned  their  monies  for  the  reversion  of  a  lease  of  a  colliery,  about  thirty  years  to  come  of  the  lease :  when 
they  come  to  crack  their  nuts,  they  find  nothing  but  shells;  nuts  will  not  keep  thirty  years ;  there  is  a  swarm 
of  worms  under  ground  that  will  eat  up  all  before  their  time;  they  may  find  some  meteors,  Igmus  JiUuus, 
instead  (»f  a  mine.  Now  this  trade  of  coal  began  not  past  four  score  years  since.  Coals,  in  former  times, 
were  only  used  by  smiths,  and  for  burning  of  lime.  Woods  in  the  South  part  of  England  decaying,  and  the 
city  of  London  and  other  cities  and  towns  growing  populous,  made  the  trade  for  coal  increase  yearly,  and 
many  great  ships  of  burthen  built,  so  that  there  were  more  coals  vended  in  one  year^  than  were  in  seven 
years  by-past    This  great  trade  hath  made  this  town  to  flourish  in  all  trades." 

*  A  political  speculator,  in  a  work  called  *  The  Grand  Concern  of  England,'  printed  in  London,  in  1&7S, 
among  various  odier  proposals  far  bettering  the  state  of  the  nation,  advises  that  this  trade  in  future  be  man*- 
ged  by  commissioners  empowered  to  supply  all  parts  of  his  Majesty's  dominions  with  coals.  "  I  need  not," 
says  he, ''  declare  how  the  subjects  are  abused  in  the  price  of  coals;  how  many  poor  have  been  starved  Ibr 
want  of  fewel  by  reason  of  the  horrid  prices  put  upon  them,  espedally  in  time  of  war,  cillier  by  themerdiant 
or  the  woodmonger,  or  between  them  both."  The  price  at  that  time,  he  computes  at  about  7b*  ft  Newcastle 
chaldnm;  the  freight  at  6s.  the  city  duty  at  3s. ;  and  lighterage,  wharfiige,and  cartage,  at  48.    *'  If,  Aen, 


NORTHtJMBERLAND.  155 

duke  of  Richmond  one  shilling  p»  chaldron  on  coals  Intnight  to  London,  which  was 
continued  in  the  family  till  the  year  1800,  when  it  was  purchased  by  govemmait  for 
the  annual  sum  of  £  1,900,  payable  to  the  duke  and  his  successors,  a  sum  much  infe- 
rior to  its  pres^it  value.  At  the  end  of  the  17th  century,  1400  ships  are  said  to  have 
been  employed  in  exporting  yearly  from  Newcastle,  two  himdred  uiousand  dialdixBULui.. 
of  coals,  jN^ewcastle  measure,  which  was  about  two4;hirds  of  the  whole  trade.  The 
over-sea  trade  ia  this  article,  at  the  same  time,  employed  nine  thousand  tons  of  ship- 
ping. In  170S,  the  master  of  the  Trinity  House  of  Newcastle,  reported,  by  request^ 
to  me  House  of  Commons,  that  600  ships,  of  the  average  burthen  of  80  Newcastle 
chaldrons,  with  4,500  seamen,  were  necessary  for  carrying  cm  the  coal  trade.  In  171 0, 
a  duty  was  laid  upon  coals  for  building  50  churches.  A  curious  and  particular  ac- 
count of  the  monies  collected  by  duties  on  coal,  for  the  building  of  St.  Faul's  church, 
in  London,  from  Oct.  1,  1668,  to  May  5,  1716,  is  preserved  in  the  Antiquarian  Re- 
pository, vol.  ii.  p.  40.  In  the  year  1741»  a  drawback  was  granted  on  the  duty  on 
coals,  used  in  fire^ngines  for  working  the  tin  and  copper  mines  in  CcHnwall.  In 
1785,  a  combination  of  shipowners  and  others  concemea  m  the  coal  trade,  to  enhance 
the  price  of  that  necessary  article,  was  defeated  by  the  attention  of  the  lord  mayor  of 
Lfondon :  and  in  the  year  1788,  a  number  of  coal-buyers  having  formed  themselves 
into  a  sodety,  and  held  private  meetings  at  the  coal-exchange  of  the  dty  of  London, 
professing  to  make  regulaticms  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  the  trade  in  coals,  which 
r^ulations  having  a  tendency  to  prevent  the  trade  from  being  free  and  open ;  any 
such  association,  consisting  of  more  than  five  persons,  was  demred  by  parliament  to 
be  liable  to  the  punishments  due  to  combinations. 

During  the  month  of  April,  1799>  coals  in  London  got  to  the  enormous  {nrice  of 
£  6  per  chaldron.  As  th^  continued  to  be  sold  at  a  very  high  price,  and  being  felt 
as  a  grievous  hardship  in  London  and  the  adjacent  country,  a  committee  of  the  house 
of  commons,  after  investigating  the  matter  with  great  attention,  were  of  opinion  that 
the  enhanced  price  was  occasioned  by  *  the  limitatian  ofvenda^  by  which  each  colliery 
on  the  Tyne  is  limited  so  as  not  to  exceed  a  certain  quantity  in  each  year,*  as  stipu- 
lated by  the  owners  of  the  collieries ; — ^the  detention  of  ships  at  Newcastle,  sometimes 
six  weeks,  waiting  for  their  turns  to  get  the  best  coals ; — ^the  want  of  an  open  market 
in  London,  the  present  one  being  engrossed  by  a  few  subscribers ; — the  coal-buyer 
being  sometimes  owner  of  both  ship  and  cargo ; — ^the  detention  of  the  ships  by  the 
want  of  a  sufficient  number  of  coal-meters  for  unloading  them,  and  a  further  delay  in 
getting  ballast ; — ^the  practice  of  mixing  coals  of  inferior  quality  with  the  best,  and 
selling  the  whole  as  the  best ; — and  frauds  in  the  measurement,  carriage,  and  delivery, 
of  the  coals. 

Dr.  Macnab  maintains,  that  the  UmitaHan  of  vends  is  as  much  for  the  public  bene- 
fit as  for  that  of  the  individuals  concerned ;  and  contends,  that  it  was  necessarv  to 
prop  up  the  coal  trade  by  such  a  regulation,  which,  though  in  its  complexion  it  be 

diree  Newcastle  chaldrons,  computed  at  SL  make  ^ve  London  chaldrons,  and  they  be  sold  at  5/.  lOs.  there  is 
very  nigli  half  in  half  gotten  thereby ;  considering  then,  how  many  hundred  thousand  chaldron  of  coals  are 
spent  every  year,  by  a  moderate  computation  it  will  appear  that  near  200,0002.  per  annum  advantage  may 
arise  hereby  to  the  public,  and  the.  subject  also  receive  a  great  benefit  by  the  same.** 


15^  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

contraiy  to  law,  is  good  in  spirit,  and  beneficial  in  its  effects*.  To  support  this  asser- 
tion, he  quotes  the  evidence  of  Nathimiel  Clayton,  esq.  given  before  the  coal^eom* 
mittee  of  the  house  oi  cQmmons,  whose  evidence,  he  ados,  was  the  most  informing; 
convincing,  and  clear,  of  all  that  were  given  on  tlmt  momentous  business :  For  Ihus 
Mr.  Clayt<Hi  strongly  expresses  himself : — *'  I  have  no  doubt  that  one  of  the  motives 
which  led  to  this  agreement,  was  the  securing  to  the  mine  adventurer  an  adequate 
profit  upon  that  adventure ;  and  I  am  equally  dear  that  the  public  have  been,  in  the 
final  result,  materially  benefited  by  the  operation  of  the  agreement."  By  this  last  as* 
sertion,  Mr.  Clayton  means  that  collieries  have  thus  been  worked,  and  made  to  yidd 
a  regular  supply,  at  a  legitimate  price,  which  otherwise  must  have  be^i  abandoned ; 
and  which,  if  once  lost,  could  never  be  resumed.  It  is,  indeed,  observed  by  all  writers 
on  the  subject,  upon  the  evidence  of  the  most  intelligent  viewers  of  celeries,  that 
when  they  are  once  lost,  or  abandoned,  Ifiey  seldom  or  ever  are  regained. 

The  coal-owner,  or  worker  of  the  mine,  employs  an  agent  called  a  JF%fer,  to  n^o^ 
date  the  sale  of  the  coals  with  the  ship-owner,  and  to  furnish  keels  for  cotiveyin^  the 
coals  to  the  ship  from  the  staith,  and  for  which  he  recdves  from  Is.  to  Is.  So.  per 
Newcastle  chaldron.  The  price  of  the  coal  is  fixed  by  the  coal-owner,  and  guaranteed 
to  him  by  the  fitter.  In  case  the  owners  of  a  mine  do  the  duty  of  a  fitter  by  a  fixed 
salary  to  an  agent,  there  is  of  course  no  guarantee.  The  coal^wners  and  coal-workers 
meet  every  year,  and  regulate  or  fix  the  quantity  of  coals  to  be  vended,  until  next 
meeting,  by  each  colliery.  Collieries  that  vend  more  than  the  allotted  proportion  pay 
an  allowahce  to  the  inferior  collieries  for  the  coals  actually  wrought,  and  lying  unsold 
at  the  staith,  and  which  is  within  the  stipulated  proportion.  Under  this  regulation 
tlie  supply  of  coals,  it  is  alledged,  is  always  equal  to  the  demand.  But  the  owners  of 
mines  possessing  dedded  advantages  in  point  of  quality  and  situation,  are  content  to 
restrict  their  vends,  in  order  to  prevent  the  abandonment  of  the  other  collieries ;  the 
ruin  of  their  owners ;  the  riot  and  confusion  which  would  arise  from  the  consequent 
distress,  and  dlscoiitcntmpnt  of  the  colliers ;  and  tjhe  unfair  advantages  which  the  gen- 
tlemen of  the  coal-exchange  would  acquire  in  the  sale  of  the  inferior  sorts  of  coal. 
This  agreement,  with  the  exception  of  some  short  intervals,  has  subsisted  since  the  year 
1771.  It  may  be  confidently  stated,  that  the  average  profits  resulting  from  coal-min- 
ing adventurers,  are  not  more  than  what  is  adequate  to  the  capital  required,  and  the 
risK  incurred. 

The  price  of  Coal  has  always  been  extremely  variaMe ;  for  the  oonsumption  de- 
pends mudi  upon  the  state  of  the  seasons,  and  the  supply  is  ^ed;ed  by  the  wind,  by 
peace  and  war,  and  by  comUnations,  and  injucUcious  acts  of  the  le^slaturef .    The 

*  Letter  to  J.  VHiiiiiiore,  £iq.  M.  P.  member  of  the  Hon.  Committee  of  die  Coal  Trade,  ISOL 

f  There  are  nearly  two  hundred  rc^^ulations  a&d  acta  of  parliament  respecting  the  ceal  trade,  most  of  them 
utterly  inconsistent  with  every  just  principle  of  political  economy.  The  tax  on  coal  has  been  properly  charac* 
tended  partial,  oppressive,  and  impolitte.  Partial,  because  it  is  laid  on  that  part  of  the  faommuoit^  not 
fomished  by  nature  with  ooai,  and  which  on  the  contrary  oi^ht  there&re  to  be  exempted  ;»**^p(refi8ivey  h& 
cause  it  tends  to  generate  all  tbose  extensive  and  complioated  miseries  which  are  suffered  in  various  parta  uf 
the  island,  from  the  want  of  this  necessary  of  life  ;«-Kmd  impolitic,  because  it  checks  agriculture  and  m«nu^ 
factures,  which  essentially  depend  upon  the  plenty  and  cheapness  of  fuel. 


NORTHUBfBERLAND. 


157 


tolkmktg  table  is  collected  from  Ae  awtikaiilies  spuated.  hj  Btand*  and  from  the  Gen. 
tlanan's  and  Montblj  Magazines : — 

Tmt. 

1895 

1512 

ib. 

15S6 
ib. 
1550 
1590 
1636 
1653 
1635 

1637 

ib. 
1644 
1653 
1655 

ib. 

1667 

1701 

ib. 

1703 

1739 
8  April  1772 
16  April   — 

1799 

1814  highest 

1821      do. 


average 


Friee  p«  ChddnB. 

WImkmU. 

£0    3    4 

Whitby  Abbev. 
Alnwick  Castle. 

0    5    0  the  best  kiiid 

0    4    2  inferior 

ib. 

0    2    6 

Newcastle. 

0    4    0 

London. 

0  12    0  per  load 

ib. 

0    9    0 

ib. 

0    7    6 

Newcastle. 

0    9    0 

ib. 

0  10    0 

ib. 

0  17    ^  summer 

TiOndon. 

0  19    ^  winter 

*^- 

4    0    0  mege  of  Newcastle 

London. 

0  10    0 

Newcastle. 

10    4) 

London. 

0  12    0 

Newcastle. 

1  10    ^ 

London. 

0  18    3 

ib. 

0  10    6 

Newcastle. 

0  11    0 

ib. 

1     d    0 

TiOndon. 

4    4   .0 

ib. 

1  11    « 

»*. 

9-0    0 

ib. 

3  15    0 

ib. 

2     4     0 

ib. 

J  1  17    7 

ib. 

Tke  riae  and  progress  of  the  coal  trade  have  been  traced  in  the  preceding  sketeh. 
During  the  last  century  the  export  of  cofQs  gradually  increased.  From  1704  to'  1710, 
the  average  annual  export  from  Newcastle  was  178443  chaldrons.  In  1764,  the  trade 
from  the  Tyne  increased  82,000  chaldrons.  On  an  average  for  six  years,  ending  at 
Christinas,  1776,  tliere  were  annua&y  dettred  from  tiie  custom  house  of  Newcarae, 
'380^000  chaldrons,  of  which  960,000  were  sent  to  London ;  90,000  to  other  British 
ports ;  2,000  to  British  colonies ;  and  27,000  to  other  forcfign  ports.  From  1791  to 
1799,  inclusive,  4,289,727  chaldrons  were  eicported  from  the  port  of  Newcastle.  Of 
this  quantity  2^95,629  were  sent  to  London ;  921,480  coastwise ;  and  872,618  to  fo- 
reign  oountnes.  The  average  export  during  these  nine  years*  was  476;684  diiddroiis* 
iFrom  this  it  seems,  that  tne  trade  was  Jie^ly  trebled  ih  extent  during  the  last  cen« 
tury. 


VOL.  1. 


2R 


\ 


158  GENERAJL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

The  following  synopsis  of  ibe  Neweastle  ooal  tnde  is  exlzacted  ficom  ^be  books  of 
the  custom-house  :^ 

Tew.  CoMtwiw.  Fordgn.  Totd  ChaUraMi 

1802  494,488       44,001       588,489 

1803  505,137       44,324       549>46l 

1804  579,929       52,589       632,518 

1805  '  525,827       49,573       602,400 

1806  587,719  46,107  633,826 

1807  584,371  27,842  561,718 

1808  613,786  15,661  629,447 

1809  550,221  14,632  564,853 

1810  622,573  19,261  641,834 

1811  634,371  17,954  652,325 

1812  630,683  24,985  655,618 

1813  584,184  14,764  598,948 

1814  649,151  31,984  681,135 

1815  650,209  42,434  692,643 

1816  678,151  43,782  721,938 

1817  622,977  51,797^  674,774^ 

1818  671,871  47,744  719,615 

1819  639,987  39,785  679,722 

1820  756,513  44,826j^  801,339^ 

1821  692,321  48,178  740,499 

Thus  it  appean  that  12,978,098  chaldrcms  of  coals,  Newcastle  measure,  or  84,878,- 
696^  tons,  were  exported  from  the  port  of  the  Tyn^  (without  inducting  BIyth  and 
Hartl^),  during  the  last  twenty  years.  The  average  annual  export  was,  according  to 
these  returns,  648,655  chaldrons  nearly. 

In  the  year  1776,  there  were  exported  fixnn  Blyth  14,000  chaldrons,  and  from  Hart- 
ley 18,000  dialdrons*.  From  the  years  1791  to  1799  indusive,  336,100  chaldrons  were 
ex|K}rted  from  these  ports,  being  an  average  of  nearly  37,844]^  chaldrons.  In  1809, 
thdr  exports  were  48,052 ;  in  1810,  47,830 ;  and  in  1811,  they*  were  58,958  diakhons, 
Newcastle  measure. 

*  Wiyibie,  bong  conridared  w  a  member  of  Ae  port  of  Newcatde,  in  I6l0,  bad  »  duty  of  Is.  a  duldnn 
laid  on  all  OMilt  exported  flrom  it;  but  a  petition,  representing  them  as  places  of  distinct  interest,  being  pre- 
■entad  to  the  Honte  of  Commons,  the  daty  was  wdered  "to  be  laid  down  and  no  more  taken  up."  In  tSSS, 
however,  wo  find  Newcastle,  Blyth^  and  Berwick,  paying  to  the  king,  "  Is.  per  dialdron,  coetome,  and  to 
adl  than  ^pdn  to  the  city  of  London,  not  exceeding  178.  the  chaldron,  in  die  swnmer,  and  19s.  thedialdran, 
all  the  wmter."  An  ordibanoe  of  the  Lords  and  Comm<His,  in  l64S,  prohibited  coals  and  salt  from  being  ez- 
partad  from  Bly the ;  but  the  trade  in  these  arddes  was  very  flourishing  here,  while  Newcastle  continued  to 
hM  out  against  the  anny  of  the  Farliament  in  iSHu^BrmuL  U,  sVC    Gard.  Eng.  Grieo.  p.  5& 


Coutwiifc 

Foreign* 

Total  ChaUmu. 

55,258 

55,258 

45,553 

72 

45,625 

48,529 

48,529 

37,363 

643 

88,006 

49,417 

771 

50,188 

46,902 

238 

47,140 

51,897 

441 

51,838 

49,520 

1121 

50,641 

53,936 

2390 

56,326 

55,718 

1741 

57,459 

NORTHUMBERLAND.  159 

The  foHowing  is  an  account  of  ooels  shipped  at  Blyth,  including  Hartley,  from 
the  1st  of  January,  1812,  to  ilae  1st  Januaiy,  18S2  * — 

Ye&r. 

1812 
1813 
1814 
1815 
1816 

1817 
1818 

1819 
1820 

1821 

Hence  we  find  that  501,009  chaldrons,  Newcastle  measure ;  or  1,327)674  tons,  were 
exported  during  the  last  ten  years;  and  that  the  average  annual  export  was  50,101 
chaldrons  nearly. 

Duringthe  last  century  the  export  of  coals  from  Sunderland  has  also  increased  ra- 
pidly*. From  1704  to  1710,  the  average  export  of  coals  from  that  port  was  65,760 
chaldrons.  In  1750,  the  quantity  exported  had  increased  to  162,277  chaldrons.  In 
1770,  the  ex{>ort  was  213,645  chaldrons.  In  1790,  it  reached  298,077  chaldrons ;  and 
in  1800,  it  was  303,460.  From  1801  to  1818,  the  total  quantity  exported  was  6,103,938 
chaldrons,  Newcastle  measure.  This  makes  the  average  annual  export  about  340,000 
chaldrons,  or  901,000  tons. 

It  has  been  asserted  that  ^^  the  coals  qftkis  county  are  inexhaustible.*^  Mr.  Williams, 
in  his  Natural  History  of  the  Minoral  Kingdom,  is  of  a  different  opinion,  and  thinks 
it  a  matter  of  such  importance  as  to  deserve  the  serious  attention  of  the  legidature. 
This  opinion  is  strongly  coroborated  by  Mr.  William  Smith,  who  has  successfully  ex- 
plored the  stratification  of  the  British  Islands,  and  ascertained,  by  an  actual  admea- 
8urement»  the  limits  of  the  district  which  contains  coals  at  practicable  mining  depths. 
The  great  importance  of  this  fosal  to  the  nation  in  general,  and  to  this  district  in  par- 
ticular, render  this  sulneet  wcrtthy  of  investigation. 

The  folkywing  calculation  will  tend  to  elucidate  this  curious  and  important  ques- 
ticm: — 

The  quantity  of  coals  annually  exi)orted  from  the  ports  of  Newcastle^ 

Sunderland,  Blytb,  and  Hartlej^,  may  be  estimated  at 1,040,000  Chaldrons. 

And  the  annual  Home  Consumption  ibr  Culinary  and  Manufactur- 
ing Purposes 280,000    

Total  of  the  annual  aTerage  Consumption       1,SSO,000 

*  In  the  year  1396,  as  appears  from  the  rolls  of  Whitby  Abbey,  coals  were  brought  thither  by  shipping 
from  Sunderlaiid ;  bat  the  permaneiit  establishment  of  the  export  of  coals  from  ^s  port,  may  be  dated  fivm 
the  year  1644^  when  Newcaade  iras  hdd  and  defended  by  the  aAierents  of  Charles  I.  Afre»  this  period  the 
coal  trade  of  Sunderland  continued  to  be  an  object  of  jealousy  to  the  hostmen  of  Newcastle. 


160  GENEKAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Or  estimating  the  Chaldioii,  Newcastle  MeMare,  ftt  6&cwt   8,498,000  Tons. 

One  Ton  weight  of  Coal,  (according  to  Br.  Watsoa)  oeoupieB  in 
the  earth  tne  space  of  one  cubic  yard.  The  number,  therefore, 
of  cubic  yards  annually  consumed  is  •  •  • 8,498,000 

To  which  add  for  Wastes  and  Pillars 1,166,000 

The  total  of  cubic  yards  annually  consumed  ia    4s664,000 

Suppose  the  average  thickness  of  the  workable  seams  four  feet  and 
a  half,  then  tbe.cubic  yards  or  tons  contained  in  a  Square  mile 
will  be 4,645,000 

It  therefore  appesm  that  a  square  mile  is  not  sufficient  for  the  present  consumption 
of  one  year.*  Now  if  we  estimate  the  breadth  occupied  by  the  Newcastle  Coal  For- 
mation to  be  on  an  averse  eight  miles,  and  the  length  twenty-five  •  miles,  the  total 
area  of  the  coal  seams  wifl  be  200  square  miles ;  and  as  one  mile  is  scarcely  equal  to 
the  consumption  <rf  o«ie  year,  the  whole  will  be  consumed  before  200  years  have 
elapse^.  Mr.  Bailey,  taking  the  average  thickness  of  all  the  workable  seams  addtd 
together  at  five  yards,  and  the  extent  of  the  coal  field  in  the  county  of  Du Aam  kt 
40,000  acres,  concludes  that  865  years  will  ekpsre  before  the  whole  of  it  he  raised. 
He,  however,  adds,  "  This  estimate  is  made  on  the  supposition  that  the  district  is  all 
whole  coal;  but,  as  a  considerable  norticfti  ctf  It  has  beim  already  ivrou^t  out,  it  is 
probable  that  there  is  not  more  ooai  left  than  will  setve  the  consumption  much  more 
than  fiOO  years."  Dr.  Mac  Nabf  indeed  makes  the  ei*a  of  our  coal  seams  three  hun- 
dred square  miles,  which  gives,  according  to  his  estimate,  neaily  300  years  before  Uie 
coal  be  exhausted.  But  he  has  calculated  the  quantity  annually  wrought  too  low  x 
nor  has  he  made  sufficient  allowance  for  the  consumption  of  several. centuries  Aready 
elapsed.  In  a  lar^  portion  of  this  district,  as  XS^tey  quaintlv  observes,  "the  nilt^ 
have  been  cracked  and  t^e  kernels  eaten  f  ttnfl  it  is  probable  that  long  befotie  SOd 

*  y  The  profligate  practice  of  ftcrteniiig  cimJi*  at  the  pit  ittoath  occmions  an  immenfie  w«ste  oTAiel.  Mr. 
C3»pnian  caiculites  that  near  cme-fbiirth  of  the  caking  ctad  is  screoned  before  Mpping.  Part  of  tiie  ntial! 
coal  thus  separated  is  sold  ftr  making  chiden  and  mineral  tar.  Tlie  small  rtftoe  of  open  btmiing  cxttl  ha^ 
only  to  a  certain  extent^  a  sale  to  gla88-hoaqc9,'8ngar4ioiise8,  Hme^kilAs,  steam^ngfoes,  cupcte,  air4lmiaoei, 
smith's  forges,  &c.  "nie  remainder  of  bdth  tpedes  it'tiiroWtt  by  m  kind  of  «yrtemMio  pHMHgaiity,  tqpon  the 
high-roads^  allowed  to  moulder  into  useless  rubbishy  or  consumed  by  the  agency  of  fire.  Strangers  axe  aalCM 
nished  at  the  va^t  masses  of  valuable  poal  which  are  continually  burning  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Newcastle^ 
and  which,  during  nighty  illuminate  the  atmosphere  to  a  great  distanoej  A  heap  of  good  coals,  eonsisdng  of 
many  thousand  chaldrons,  befi^  permitted  to  bum  during  a  number  of  yearSj  is  a  drciunstaaoe  that  appears 
very  extraordinary  and  absurd;  but  the  waste  is  not  limited  to  what  is  apparent  above  ground,  for  great 
quantities  are  left  below  in  the  pits.  Since  the  legislature  reduced  the  duty  on  small  coal  exported  to  foreign 
parts  from  22s.  to  6s.  per  chaldroh*  part  hA$  been  sold'  to  manufiictui'fars  abroad ;  but  something  more  is  re« 
quired  in  order  to  preserve  so  valuable  an  instrument  in  agriculture^  and  so  very  important  a  necessary  of 
life,  which,  it  is  evident,  is  far  firom  being  inexhaustible. 

t  See  Letters  addressed  to  Mr.  Pitt  oA  the  Coal  Thtade;  1793.  The  tmter  contends,  thai  die  district  be* 
tween  Shields  and  Whitehaten  will  not  bo^faausted  tf  Its  ^oiOsibr  the  full  tstiai  oftwelw  Icuiidred  years ! 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  161 

years  are  expired^  the  price  of  coals  will  be  greatly  augmented  to  the  consumer^  from 
the  increased  expence  of  obtaining  them^  tmd  the  ino^ased  distance  from  the  pits  to 
the  river*. 

tn  179S»  Dr.  Mae  Nab,  in  a  statement  which  he  said  ''  may  be  depended  upon/ 
informs  us  that  64,724  individuals  are  employed  and  dependent  on  the  coal  traide,  on 
the  rivers  Tjme  aiid  Wear.  Of  this  number  38,475  belong  to  the  Tyne,  and  S6,250 
to  the  Wear.    Those  belonging  to  the  trade  upon  the  Tyne  he  has  classed  as  follow : 

»  4 

Pitmen  and  bovs    . . . .  • 6,704 

Fitters,  their  clerks,  and  runners * • ,  103 

Keelmen  and  boys,  boatmen  .  • . . , 4 - 1,547 

Trimmers,  ballast-heavers,  &c 1,000 

Pilots  and  foymen     500 

Seamen  and  boys    « 8,000 

Carpenters,'  ropers,  smithes,  saiUmakers,  &c. . . » 946 

Purveyors  ior  keels  and  ships,  See • 1,100 

Coal-factors,  merchants,  clerks,  lightermen,  coal-heavers,  cartmen,  and  porters.  •  S,000 
Supposing  one-fourth  of  those  persons  have  families,  and  three  to  a  family  unem- 
ployed, will  come  to '* 16,575 

Total     38,476 


Considering  the  late  increase  in  the  exportation  of  coals,  the  number  of  persons  at  pre- 
sent employed  in  the  different  branches  of  tliis  trade,  may  be  safely  estimated  at  73,460. 

From  Mr.  Bailey's  tables  in  his  "  General  VicTV^  of  the  Agriculture  of  the  County 
of  Durham,"  printed  in  1810^  it  appears  that  thirty-fpur  water-sale  collieries  in  that 
county  annually  send  to  the  Tyne  about  701,000  London  chaldrons,  and  employ  8265 
men  in  mining  them.  Calculating  fr<pm  this  data,  and  the  preceding  estimate  of  the 
quantity  of  ooak  annually  consiumed,  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  total  number  of  pit* 
m^i  employed  at  present  in  the  sea-sale  collieries  of  Newcastle,  Sunderland,  Bly th, 
and  Ham^,  amount  to  113S7. 

It  is  circulated,  that  the  sum  expended  in  materials  for  boring  and  sinking  for  coal, 
mch  as 'wood,  iron,  ropes,  &Cb  independently  of  the  money  paid  for  the  exclusive  pri* 
Tilege  of  working,  amounts,  in  some  ooiheries,  to  upwards  of  £  50,000  per  annum. 
The  following  is  a  calculation  of  tlw  csqpital  employed  in  the  ooal-t»de  on  the  Tyne 
and  Wear: — 

In  the  collieries    ,....-..-.     X.  1,030,000 
In  shipping      -...--..----  1,400,000 

Capital  employed  by  the  London  coal-merchants  700,000 

Total    .    .    -     £.  »,180,000 


^  It  is  a  vulgar  etmr  that  coab  iKiiglit'lM  dug  |Ut  BliaMiegfli,  omt  Wooiwidb,  and  on  other  tvmmmm  near 
London,  if  government  had  not  prohibited  their  being  dug,  for  encouraging  the  nursery  of  seamen,  &c.  The 
search  for  coab  on  the  southern  and  eastern  parts  of  England  has  been  uniformly  unsuccessful.  From 
the  immense  number  and  thickness  of  the  known  strata  which  intervene,  and  which  contain  no  coals  or  oth^r 

VOL,  I,  2  S 


162  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

This  (^culation  was  made  by  an  in^[enious  writer  wdl  acquainted  witJi  tihe  ooal 
trade  about  thirty  years  a^ ;  and  oonsidmng  the  progressive  extensicm  t>f  this  trade^ 
the  capital  at  present  employed  may  be  estimated  at  four  mUHons  sterling.  In  v^i- 
turing  this  estimate^  the  recent  alteration  in  the  cuirency  has  been  considered. 

From  this  detail,  the  coal  trade  must  appear  of  the  utmost  importance,  not  only  in 
a  local,  but  in  a  national  point  of  view,  as  a  nursery  of  exoeUent  seamen  tor  the  Bri- 
tish navy  ;  and  as  the  means  of  employment  for  many  thousands  of  industrious  work^ 
ing  people.  Besides  the  im]>ortant  advanta^^es  already  enumerated,  others  deserve  to 
be  noticed.  Coal  is,  in  many  respects,  and  m  a  very  high  d^ree,  useftil  to  Uie  land^ 
interest,  not  only  by  greatly  enhancing  the  real  value  of  those  lands  in  which  it  is 
foufkd,  and  those  through  which  it  must  pass,  from  the  works  to  the  place  where  it  is 
shipped,  but  from  the  general  improvements  which  it  has  occasioned,  in  consequence 
of  the  wealth  it  has  brought  into  the  country.  In  short,  the  excellence  and  plenty  of 
coal  in  Great  Britain  not  only  enrich  particular  districts,  but  constitute  the  foundation 
of  all  the  valuable  manufactures  in  the  kingdom,  and  is  indiq[>utably  the  grand  source 
of  its  wealth,  greatness,  and  safetjr*. 

Tery  valuable  matters^  it  is  of  no  oonseqaence  whedier  coal  yeina  may  exist  or  not  in  these  parts  below  prac- 
ticable miiung  depths.  The  very  open  and  porous  state  of  some  of  these  strata,  the  chalks  (more  thim  50 
&thoms  thick)^  for  instance^  occasion  them  to  be  so  powerfolly  supplied  with  water,  as  to  render  the  proqiect 
of  sinking  even  one  shaft  through  them  at  London  utterly  hopeless. 

*  The  net  annual  produce  of  the  duties  on  coal  in  1790>  was  £.  501^945  19s.  SJd.  At  present  this  tax 
must  produce  above  L.  600,000  annually.  In  1795>  parliament  ordered  58.  a  chaldioD,  of  thirty-six  bushels, 
Winchester  measure,  to  be  laid  on  this  article ;  if  exported  fhxn  Scotland  58.  per  ton,  over  and  above  all  du- 
ties then  existing.  From  this  period  the  amount  of  duty  has  been  too  fluctuating,  and  the  regulations  ini* 
posed  by  parliament  too  numerous  to  particularize. 

The  following  are  the  duties  paid,  at  present,  on  coals :— Paid  at  Newcastle,  coast  duty  Is.  4d.  and  town's 
dues  2d.  a  chaldron  each.  Paid  in  London ,"— By  Stfa  Anne,  di.  r.  Ss. ;  by  9di  Anne,  du  vi.  Ss. ;  by  9di 
Anne,  ch.  xxii.  for  buflding  churches,  Ss. ;  by  impost  in  1779>  <yf  5  per  cent  4  l8*80d.;  impost  in  17SS,  of 
5  per  cent  4r  l&-20d. ;  Duke  of  Richmond's  duty,  AL ;  whidi,  by  raising  the  fractioQ  to  an  integer,  makM 
the  king^s  permanent  duty  9s.  4d.  per  London  dialdron.  There  are  also  paid  in  the  port  of  London,  metage 
Sd.;  orphan'sduty  6d. ;  and  Id.  market  dues,  per  London  dialdnn;  likewise  id*  Lord  Mayoi^s  does ;  and 
Id.  Trinity  dues,  per  Newcastle  chaldron.  Besides  these  heavy  imposts,  Ss.  td.  per  London  daldran  were 
lately  paid  as  war  taxes.  Non-fteemen  of  Newcastle,  were  rsgnlaiiy  charged  4d.  a  dialdroBi  in  die  town's 
chamber,  for  all  the  coal  they  exported,  till  the  year  179S,  when  Sir  William  Leighton  commenced  a  snit 
against  the  mayor  and  corporation,  in  whidi  it  was  proved  that  half  the  charge  was  grooivQesB:  the  daim  to 
Jt  has,  consequently,  been  relinquished,  and  the  town's  dues  are  now  fixed  at  2d.  per  duddron,  to  every  de» 
scriptioR  of  persons.  Thus  it  appears  that  about  1  Is.  5d.  per  London  dialdron  is  paid  in  various  duties  upon 
coals  before  it  comes  into  the  possession  of  the  London  coal  merchant 

Dr.  Adam  Smith  says,  ''if  a  bounty  could  in  any  case  be  reasonable,  it  might  perfaiqw  be  so  on  the  trans- 
portation of  coals;  bat  the  legislature,  instead  of  a  bounty,  has  imposed  a  tax  on  coal,  which,  upon  most  sorts 
of  coil,  is  moso  than  60  per  cent  of  the  original  price  at  the  coal  pit  Where  they  are  naturally  cheap  they 
■re  oonsinmid  dnQr  free  j  where  they  are  natarsUy  dear,  they  are  loeded  with  a  heavy  doty." 


VORTHUMBEHLANB.  1«8 


MANUFACTURES* 

Coke.^^The  gieat  quantities  of  coal-dust,  or  small  coal»  collected  at  the  numerous 

Eits  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Newcastle,  have  now  become  a  great  incumbrance^ 
ut  happily  an  admirable  method  has  been  discovered,  not  only  to  diminish  the 
inconvemence,  but  to  turn  it,  with  a  little  modification,  into  an  article  of  commerce 
and  advanti^,  by  preparations  as  simple  as  they  are  ingenious.  Coal,  in  this  pulve- 
rized state,  is  not  proper  for  chamber  fires,  because  it  falls  through  the  bars  of  the 
grates,  or  extinguishes  the  fire  by  falling  upon  the  ignited  dnders,  in  such  a  mass, 
that  no  air  can  get  between  to  assist  the  combustion.  This  small  coal  is,  therifore, 
proper  in  this  state  only  for  some  purposes  in  glass-houses,  lime  or  brick  kilns,  foiges, 
&C.  The  consumption  for  these  purposes  is  indeed  very  considerable,  but  is  not  nearly 
equal  to  the  quantity  produced  by  the  pits,  notwithstanding  the  great  care  that  is 
taken  to  keep  the  coal  in  large  pieces ;  besides,  some  kinds  are  liable  to  crumble  into 
small  coal  upon  receiving  the  least  shock :  means  have,  therefore,  been  sought  to  ren- 
der this  coal  proper  for  other  purposes.  That  property,  which  belongs  to  the  best 
ooal,  of  ag^utinating  and  forming  a  single  mass,  wnen  in  a  state  of  combustion,  na^ 
tundly  suggested  the  idea  of  enckavourmg  to  consolidate  considerable  quantities  of 
this  coal  £ist,  or  smaU  coal,  by  means  of  a  great  fire.  To  effect  this  it  is  put  into  a 
kiln,  in  a  great  measure  similar  to  a  lime  kun,  which  is  previously  well  heated  with 
large  pieces  of  coal.  The  small  coal  then  runs  together,  and  forms  a  mass,  without 
losing  any  large  portion  of  its  valuable  qualities.  When  the  ignited  mass  is  com- 
pletely red,  large  pieces  of  it  are  pulled  out  with  iron  rakes  (such  as  are  used  in  the 
copperas  works),  and  laid  separatdy  on  the  ground,  where  they  are  very  soon  extin- 
^shed.  These  pieces  are  nrm,  though  porous,  and  are  excellently  adapted  for  smelt- 
mg  iron,  and  other  ores,  in  high  furnaces.  This  simple  and  ingenious  contrivance  has 
given  birth  to  several  new  branches  of  industry  and  commerce.  The  coal,  thus  pre- 
pared, is  used  in  a  great  number  of  manufactories,  where  a  draft  or  blast  is  used,  as  a 
substitute  for  charcoal,  to  which  it  is  in  most  instances  superior,  as  it  produces  a  stron- 
ger, more  equal,  and  longer  continued  heat.  Coke  is  prepared  in  large  quantities  at 
Wylam,  Derwent  Hau^,  the  South  Shore,  St.  Anthon's,  and  various  other  places. 

Iran  Manufaetures.-'^he  abundance  and  cheapness  of  fuel,  and  the  convenience 
of  wata:  carnage,  render  the  banks  of  the  Tyne  an  excellent  situation  for  carrying  on 
the  various  branches  of  the  iron  manufacture,  with  expedition  and  advantage.  The 
smelting  works,  which  were  formerly  carried  on  near  Lee  Hall,  on  the  North  Tyne, 
and  at  Bebside,  near  Bedlington,  have  been  already  noticed.  The  exten8iv€  works, 
commenced  at  Lemington  in  1797*  by  tiie  Tyne  Iron  Company,  have  been  conducted 
with  ffreat  spirit.  Here  are  two  blast  furnaces,  which,  before  the  present  depression 
of  traae,  produced  upon  an  average  about  fifty-six  tons  of  pig  iron  every  week.  There 
is  at  present  only  one  fmnace  employed.  The  iron-stone  is  now  entirely  collected  from 
the  schistus  beds  in  the  neighbouring  collieries  on  both  sides  of  the  Tyne,  and  from 
Scotland ;  but  a  considerable  quantity  was  formerly  brought  from  neju^  Kobin  Hood's 
Bay,  in  Yorkshire,  to  the  quay  at  Lemington,  in  vessek  of  100  tons  burtheii,  and 
wmch  passed  the  bridge  at  Newcastle  by  striking  their  masts.  A  large  foundry  is 
attached  to  these  smelting  works. 


1^  GENERAL  DBSCRIPTION  OF 

The  extensive  iron  works  at  New  Greenwich  and  New  Deptford,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Tyne,  near  Gateshead,  sffard  a  pleasing  specimen  of  tne  spirit,  ingenuity, 
and  industry  of  Englishmen.  These  works  were  commenced,  about  sixty  years  ago, 
by  the  late  William  Hawkes,  Esq.,  and  during  the  late  war  were  employed  in  exe- 
editing  large  contracts  for  ancfaoi?  chains,  and  various  articles  of  nav  J  ii^nmoiigery. 
to  the  royal  dock-yards.  Messrs  Hawkes  also  manu£BU!ture  for  the  general  trade,  all 
kinds  of  articles  in  iron  and  steel.  .Here  is  a  mill  for  boring  cannon,  and  other  cast- 
metal  cylinders ;  two,  and  ooeasionally  three,  forces,  wrou^t  by  steam-engines ;  an 
engine  for  grinding  edge  tods,  a  slitting  and  romng  mill ;  and  one  of  the  largest 
foundries  in  England*. 

The  iron  manufacturies  at  Winlaton  and  Swalwell  have  greatly  declined.  In  the 
latter  place  anchors,  mooring-chains,  pumps,  and  cylinders  for  steam-enaines;  all  kinds 
of  cast-metal  utensils,  and,  in  short,  every  form  of  which  iron  and  sted  is  susceptible, 
are  still  made  on  a  large  scale  by  Messrs.  MiUington,  &  Co.  This  firm  also  occupy  the 
High  and  Low  Team,  (the  works  lately  abandoned  by  Messrs  Morrison,  Mosman,  6e 
Co.),  where  there  is  an  extensive  foundry,  foige,  anehcnr  shops,  steel  furnace,  boring 
mill,  and  other  conveniences  of  various  descriptions  for  manufSEK^turing  shovels,  nails, 
&c.  Near  to  the  Low  Team  a  foundry  has  be«i  established  by  Messrs.  Harrison, 
Ilobson,  and  Ayre,  for  colliery  machineiy,  and  other  castings.  At  Stella  there  is  a 
foundry,  a  tilt  for  tilting  steel,  and  a  forge  hammer  wrought  by  water,  belonging  to 
Mr.  Emerson.  Messrs.  Cookson,  &  Co.  have  a  large  found^,  and  a  steel  furnace,  in  the 
Close,  Newcastle.  There  is  another  extensive  foundry,  and  a  boring-mill,  at  Walker, 
belonging  to  Messrs.  Losh,  Wilson,  and  Bell.  The  foundry  of  Mr.  Glynn,  at  the 
Ousebum  ;  and  the  adjoining  one  belonging  to  Messrs.  Crowther  and  Morris,  have 
each  a  boring-mill  attached.  The  other  foundries  are  Messrs.  Embleton  &  Robson's, 
Forth  Banks,  and  Messrs.  Burrell's,  Forth  Street,  Newcastle ;  and  Messrs.  Whinfield, 
and  Co.  Gateshead,  where  there  are  two  othar  small  foundries*    Messrs.  Harrison  and 

*  The  forgcBy  furnaces,  and  ingemoos  oontriTAnceB  to  be  aeen  in  these  works,  are  objects  of  pleasure  and 
astonishment  to  the  curious.  The  writer  saw  here  a  cast-iron  beam  for  a  steam-engine,  which  weighs  14  tons, 
and  even  lai^r  ones  have  been  cast !  The  impetus  of  the  chief  forge  hammer  is  equal  to  five  tons,  and  it  gives 
20  strokes  in  a  minute.  Anchor  shafts,  weighing  two  tons,  are  by  the  machinery  used  in  the  forge  manu* 
ftctured  with  great  facility ;  and  four  men  and  a  boy  are  found  capable  of  doing  more  work  than  what  could 
be  formerly  performed  with  hand  hammers  by  eighteen  men  in  fourteen  days.  Iron  chains  have  long  been 
manufactured  here  in  great  perfection ;  and  the  first  testing  machine  erected  in  England  was  here.  Every 
chain  is  tested  by  a  power  which  may  be  augmented  to  QO  tons ;  and  every  link  is  proved  by  being  struck, 
while  stretched  out,  with  a  sledge  hammer.  The  weight  of  100  fkthoms  of  chain  cable  in  the  navy  is  limited 
to  217  cwt.  dqrs.  ISlb. ;  but  chains  are  sometimes  made  above  this  weight  for  other  purposes.  Mr.  Brunton, 
in  1813>  obtained  a  patent  for  certain  improvements  in  the  construction  of  chain  cables  and  moorings,  the 
peculiar  merit  of  which  consisted  in  placing  a  broad-ended  or  over-lapping  stay  across  each  link^  to  keep  the 
sides  from  collapsings  and  also  to  make  the  link  parallel  edged ;  but  these  improvements  were  considered  such 
slight  variations  from  those  formerly  adopted^  that  many  manufacturers  conceived  they  had  a  right  to  copy 
them.  This  assumption  was  contested  by  the  patentee,  who  instituted  a  suit  in  the  Court  of  Chancery  against 
Messrs.  Hawkes,  which  was' finally  decided  in  the  Court  of  King's  Bench,  May  25,  1820;  since  which  time 
Messrs.  Hawkes  have  continued  to  manufacture  iron  cables  and  moorings  with  struts,  under  an  agreement 
with  the  patentee. 


165 

Co.  of  North  Shields ;  Mr.  Robson,  of  Blyth;  Messrs.  Robertson  and  Co.  Tweed- 
mouth  ;  Mr.  Brown,  of  Abiwick ;  and  the  Owners  of  Walbottle  Colliery,  have  each 
a  foundry.  The  extensive  iron  works  at  Bedlin^n  have  already  been  alluded  to. 
Here  are  manufactured  bolt  and  bar  iron  of  various  descriptions,  such  as  anchors, 
chains,  nails,  agricultural  implements,  &c  In  these  works,  which  will  be  mare  par- 
ticularly noticed  hereafter,  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  rolling  nulls  in  En^and*. 

Refineries  of  Lead. — ^Besides  the  smelting  mills  at  Alien,  Allenheads,  jDukesfield, 
and  Langley,  in  Northumberland,  a  large  quantitv  of  lead  undergoes  this  operation 
at  the  extensive  works  established  at  B&ydon,  belonging  to  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Beau- 
mont, and  which  consist  of  four  furnaces  for  refining,  two  for  reducing,  and  one  slaff 
hearth.  Messrs.  Hall,  &  Co.  have  also  an  extremely  convenient  smeltmg  mill  at  Bill 
Quay,  where  are  two  refining  furnaces,  one  for  reducing,  and  one  slag  hearth. 

Lead  Manufixctures. — ^The  practice  of  lead-mining,  and  the  manner  of  extracting 
the  ore,  and  bringing  it  to  a  marketable  state,  have /been  detailed  in  a  preceding  part. 
At  Low  Elswick,  Messrs.  Ward,  Walker,  Taj^ev,  &  Co.  have  an  extensive  manufac- 
tory for  rolling  sheet  lead,  and  for  converting,  by  a  chemical  process,  pig  lead  into 
ceruse  and  minium  for  pigmentsf .  The  other  lead  manufacturers  are  Messrs.  Hall, 
&  Co.  B31  Quay ;  Messrs  Hind,  ic  Co.  Ousebum ;  and  Messrs  Lock,  Blackett,  &  Co. 

*  The  extensive  trade  and  numeroiu  ahipping  upon  the  Tyne  give  employment  to  many  more  manufiic- 
tarers  of  iron  articles^  all  of  whom  cannot  be  here  particularised.  Anchors  and  chains  are  made  by  Mr.  Flinn^ 
North  Shields,  who  has  a  testing  machine ;  by  Messrs.  Mathwins,  North  Shields ;  and  by  Messrs.  White  and 
Hodgson ;  Mr.  dark  ;  and  Mr.  Thompson,  South  Shields,  (who  keeps  a  subscription  testing  machine)  ;  also 
by  Mr.  Arthur,  Mr.  Allan,  and  Mr.  Spoor,  Newcastle.  Anchors  are  likewise  made  at  the  North  Shore, 
by  Messrs.  Hodge  and  Dewar;  and  at  St  Anthon's,  by  Mr.  Potts.  Chains  and  various  other  articles  in  iron 
•re  manufactured  by  Messrs.  Hall  and  Mulcaster,  Blaydon;  by  Thompson,  and  Co.,  and  by  Mr.  Ramsay, 
Winlaton.    Chains,  hinges,  nails,  patten-rings,  and  ship  smith  work,  are  executed  in  various  other  places. 

t  The  processes  used  in  making  red  and  white  lead  are  extremely  simple,  and  may  be  easily  described. 
The  first  operation  is  to  melt  the  pig-lead  into  pieces  nearly  two  feet  long,  five  inches  broad,  and  so  thin  as 
to  expose  as  great  a  sur&ce  as  possible  to  the  action  of  the  add.  These  pieces  are  then  placed  upon  earthen 
pots,  containing  about  half  a  pint  of  vinegar  each,  and  are  set  in  a  layer  of  tanners'  spent  bark,  as  dose  to 
each  other  as  possible.  Upon  this  layer  of  pots  and  lead  are  placed  boards  laid  over  with  a  further  quantity 
of  bark,  and  thus  they  are  continued,  layer  upon  layer,  till  they  arrive  at  thdr  destined  height.  These  strata 
continue  covered  for  about  three  months.  When  Uie  boards  are  removed,  the  lead  is  found  nearly  in  the  same 
shape  as  when  placed  there,  but  quite  altered  in  its  nature,  bdng  perfectly  corroded,  ^uite  white,  and  easily 
broken  by  the  fingers  into  a  white  powder  resembling  chalk.  The  pieces  are  now  thrown  together  into  a 
large  receiver  full  of  water,  having,  about  two-thirds  up,  a  partition  with  holes  in  it  running  across.  A  woik- 
man  then  with  a  large  pole,  and  a  strong  head  fixed  upon  it,  stirs,  beats,  and  breaks  them,  by  which  means 
the  corroded  lead  divides  and  falls  to  the  bottom  of  the  receiver.  This  part  of  the  operation  was  formerly 
done  dry,  and  proved  extremely  fatal  to  the  health  of  the  people  employed.  From  the  dust  and  partides  of 
the  lead  injuring  the  constitution,  few  of  the  workmen  lived  beyond  the  age  of  forty  years,  but  by  now  grind- 
ing the  lead  in  water,  this  fatal  part  of  the  process  is  remedied.  The  blue  lead  is  then  taken  away,  mdted, 
and  undergoes  a  similar  operation ;  the  white  substance  is  taken  to  the  mill  and  ground  in  the  rough,  by  the 
power  of  a  steam  engine.  The  grinding  is  performed  by  the  common  blue  millstone ;  after  it  is  ground,  it  is 
put  into  large  tubs  and  elutriated,  then  put  into  flat  dishes  and  dried.    It  is  then  fit  for  making  into  paint. 

VOL.  I.  2  T 


166  GENERAL.  DESCRnPTION  OF 

\ 

Gallow^te.  Attadied  to  the  worlds  at  Low  Ekwick  i%  a  patent  shot  tower»  175  feelf 
high.  The  lead  is  melted  at  the  top  of  the  tower,  potured  into  a  vessel  having  proper 
apertures,  and  by  cooling  as  it  falls,  ohftains  that  roundness  and  aoUditj  for  whieh  it 
is  admired  by,  sportsmen.  Shot  is  also  cast  in  a  similar  minner,  in  the  shaft  of  an  oM 
coal  mine  near  Wylam, 

Colour  Manufactures. — ^In  addition  to  the  pigments  prcrpared  from  lead,  there  are 
extensive  manufactures  upon  the  Tyne  for  a  great  variety  of  colours.  At  Paradise ; 
at  Skinner  Bum ;  in  Sanagate ;  at  the  Soudi  Shore ;  at  Hewcoth  Shore ;  and  at  Bill 
Quay. 

Prumate  qflrom,  or,  as  it  is  vulgarly  called,  Prussian  Blue^  was  attempted  to  be 
made  in  the  beginning  of  last  century,  by  a  Jew,  in  Oakwellgate,  in  Gatesnead.  ^9 
removed  his  apparatus  to  Corbridffe ;  but,  not  suoeeedin^  in  making  a  saleable  article, 
he  relinquished  his  speculation,  when  the  late  Thomas  Susapson,  Esq.  a  gentleman  of 
extensive  knowledge  in  chemistiy,  and  of  a  persevering  spirit,  took  it  up  and  brought 
the  art  to  perfection,  at  Elswick.  He^was  the  first  who  introduced  tiie  liquid  blue, 
and  afterwards  the  stone  and  fig  blue,  so  much  in  use  for  giving  clearness  ox  colour  to 
.linen.  Since  his  death,  the  manufactory  has  been  removM  to  a  situation  at  Heworth 
Shore,  which  is  peculiarly  well  adapted  for  carrying  on  this,  and  the  other  ^xtensiv^ 
concerns  which  nave  of  late  been  established  there. 

GUiss  Works. — ^This  district  is  distinguished  for  the  number  and  extent  of  its  glass 
manufactories ;  the  skill  and  dexterity  of  the  workmen  ;  and  the  variety  and  beauty 
of  their  workmanship :  a  brief  sketch  of  the  history  of  this  invaluable  artidfi  must 
therefore  be  appropriate  and  acceptable. 

The  Sidonians,  who  were  unrivalled  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Mediterranean  coast, 
in  works  of  taste,  elegance,  and  luxury,  excelled  in  the  manufacture  of  glass  upwards 
of  2000  vears  before  the  christian  era.  This  ingenious  and  industrious  pecmle  appeaj" 
to  have  had  almost  as  many  varieties  as  our  modem  manufactures  fumisii,  such  as 
coloured,  figured  by  blowing,  turned  round  by  the  lathe,  and  cut  and  carved,  and  even 
mirrors.  At  a  subsequent  period,  we  are  informed,  that  glass  ware  was  shipped  from 
Alexandria,  that  great  emporium  of  the  world.  Some  End  of  glass  appears  to  have 
been  made  by  the  ancient  Britons,  for  the  glass  ware,  used  as  bridle  ornaments,  is 
mentioned  by  Strabo,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave  no  doubt  on  the  subject ;  and 
Adamnan,  in  his  enlarged  copy  of  Ciunin's  Life  of  Columba,  informs  us,  that  the 
warlike  Picts  used  glass  vessels  for  drinking ;  but  whether  they  were  manufactured 
by  themselves,  or  imported,  we  are  not  informed.  It  seems  that  the  Saxons  were  un- 
acquainted with  the  art  of  making  glass,  and  that  it  perished  with  the  power  of  the 
Bijitcms.  Accordingly,  Eddius  informs  n^  that  when  bishop  Wilfrid  restored  and 
completed  the  churai,  founded  at  York  by  Edwin,  king  of  Northumberland,  the 
glass  x^  the  windowt^  was  imported,  From  this  time  the  taste  for  eccLesiastieal  magnL- 
ficenee  spread  rapidly  in  the  Northumbrian  kingdom;  and  Benedict  Biseop,  in  the 
year  674,  built  an  abbey  at  the  moutli  of  the  river  Wear,  with  stmae*  in  the  ItxHnaa 
manner.  For  this  work  he  brought  masons  frcnn  the  continent,  aikd  alao  gteas-m«k^^ 
who  taught  the  English  the  art  m  making  window  glass,  asid  dto  lamps,  vessek  fw 
drinking,  &;c. ;  and  thus  was  the  elegant  and  useftd  art  of  making  glass,  an  art  so  ei^ 
sentid  to  oiur  domestic  comfort  in  these  cold  dimiates,  introdnced  into  En^^land^ 


But  this  noble  oonvenienoe  either  4id  not  e:s(tend  into  the  south  parts  of  England^ 
or  was  lost  in  the  convulsions  of  the  Danish  invasions^  for  the  churches  in  king  Al- 
fred's dominions  were  destitute  of  glass  windows :  and  from  the  manner  in  which  a 
church,  furnished  with  such  windows,  is  mentioned  by  Matthew  Paris,  it  appears  that 
glass  was  a  rare  article  in  the  thirteenth  century :  even  as  late  as  the  year  1465,  glazed 
windows  were  by  no  means  common. 

In  the  year  1557»  a  manufactory  for  the  finer  sort  of  glasses  was  set  up  in  Crutched- 
Friars,  Liondon.  The  flint  glass,  little  inferior  to  that  of  Venice,  was  first  made  in 
the  Savoy-house,  in  the  Strand,  London ;  but  the  first  glass  plates,  for  looking-glasses 
and  coach  windows,  were  piade  ^bout  the  ye^  1678,  at  Lambeth,  by  the  enpourage- 
ment  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham.         ^ 

About  the  year  1619,  gkssi-worl^  ^^ppear  tp  have  been  es^blished  on  the  river  Tyne 
by  Sir  Robert  Mansel,  knt.  vice-admiral  of  England.  The  workmen  were  brought 
from  Lorraine,  then  a  province  in  Gennany ;  for  in  that  year  we  find  the  families  o:^ 
"  Hensey,"  **  Teswickfe"  apd  **  Tyttere,"  s^ttl^  in  Newp^tle.  The  corporation  grant- 
ed to  Sir  Robert  a  lease  of  si,  plot  of  grpund  between  Ousebum  and  Sit,  Lawrence 
quay,  for  erecting  his  glassy-houses.  The  cheapness  of  coal  was,  no  doubt,  his  chief 
inducement  for  erecting  them  at  so  great  a  distance  from  London.  King  James,  in 
the  13th  year  of  his  reign,  prohibited  the  making  of  glass  with  wood  firmg,  for  the 
better  preservation  of  timber ;  m^  4lsp  p)?ohibited  tlje  importation  of  foreign  ^lass. 
In  the  year  1635,  King  ^Charles  issued  a  similar  proclamation,  excepting,  however, 
such  glasses  from  Vemce,  Morana»  or  other  p ^ts  of  Italy,  a3  Sir  Robert  Mansel  should 
think  fit,  for  special  uses  and  services.  A!?out  the  year  1^70,  the  duke  pf  !Pucking« 
ham  procured  makers;,  grip4^€^  wd  pc4ish^J*$  of  glass,  from  Venioe,  pq  sett]b  in  Eng« 
land ;  and,  in  1684,  in  coni^equ^c^  c^'tlb^  fi3.pQOus  revocatipii  of  the  e^Je^  pf  Nantes, 
about  70,000  of  the  best  merchants,  maau&cturers,  and  artificers  of  Fiance,  sought 
an  asylum  in  Britain,  carrying  with  them  their  riches,  their  arts,  and  their  industry. 
To  these  refugees  we  owe  the  flirt  of  making  fine  glasses  for  drinking,  in  perfection ; 
and  sined  that  time  wa  have  excelled  the  whole  world  in  that  beauiiml  ma];iufiioture. 

It  bM  been  confidently  stated,  that  more  glass  b  manu&dtured  on  the  ^ver  Tyne 
than  in  all  the  exteninve  kin^^om  of  France^ ;  nor  will  this  appear  at  all  uxmrobable^ 
wh^ti  tine  various  and  extensive  manufactures  of  this  iis^il  article  in  this  oistriiet  i| 
considered,  '  .    ;  , 

*  St  Fondly  in  his  TVaVelfi  through  England  in  IS02,  huf  0om«  judicious  remarks  on  dt^  Newqastle  gkis»- 
vorks:— ''  We  saw,^  sayshe^  ^  several  glass-houses  at  this  Ikiuridiing  place^  where  window  glass^  hi^ii. 
decanters,  drinking  glasses;  Stt,,  are  made.  AU  these  manufactories,  though  estdblislied  in  buildings  of  a 
mean  appearance,  ai»  nanaged  with  a  simplicity  and  ficonomy  which  cannot  be  too  much  praised.  Hms 
modest  simplicity  is  of  great  advantage  to  the  country.  It  ^nconcages  active  and  industrious  men  to  emhatlc 
in  trade,  who  would  ollierwifie  be  unviUing  to  fiinn  large  estabUahments,  being  alarmed  by  the  expanoaii 
whidi  exjfcensive  works  Kaqnire,  when  constnicted  on  a  rpfiLg^Acep^  soata.  It  is  a  dia^te  far  poj3»p  md  gran^ 
cbnr  which  afapost  always  mina  the  inaiui&ctories  of  Ti^ace,  Aivf  prevents  tj^ese  ^eiw  on^  which  yrf  jff^ 
from  being  oB^abVybod*  ¥en  are  alraid  $o  iiiyoJiV^  tjbcwpselve^  12^  n^inpMjs  e^qpences  €of  iaef»  wf|rf ly»us^  |^ 
wprbshops*  H  t^f$t  t^  Ack^owle^gpd  tbat  Xhfi  ]Sn^is^  4i^d  Dutqiji  0^  P>9r^  prudent^  mi  exhibit  es^f^V 
this  way,  wbi^b  W^  «9^  t^  imiW^  %lf 9<U4  4Ad !  mp^^^P  miiP^^9  ¥  the  Iwffi  >^  ^^^^WtVWf'ttf  ^ 
thiskin^t"  ■  .    ,. 


168 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 


South  Shidds 


Newcastle 


Newcastle 
South  Shore 
Xjemington 
South  Shields 


Newcastle 
Stourbiidse 
Gatesheaa 
North  Shields 
South  Shields 


Newcastle 
Ousebum 
Bill  Quay 
South  Shields 
Hartley  Pans 
St  Lawrence 


Cast  Plate  Glass  Bouse. 

1  House  Messrs.  Isaac  Cookaon,  and  Co* 

Broad  Window  Glass. 

2  Houses  Newcastle  Broad  and  Crown  Glass  Company. 

Crown  Glass  Houses. 


3  Houses 
1    — 

4  — 
8  — 
1    — 


1  House 

1  — 

2  — 
1  — 
1    — 


Newcastle  Broad  and  Crown  Glass  Company. 
Tyne  Glass  Company. 
Northumberland  Glass  Company. 
Messrs.  Isaac  Cookson  and  Co. 
Messrs.  Shortridge  and  Co. 

FVifni  Glass  Houses. 

Northumberland  Glass  Ccxnpany. 
Lowery  and  Sowerbv. 
Messrs.  J.  Price  and  Co. 
Messrs.  Burrell  and  Co. 
Messrs.  Shortridge  and  Co. 

Green  Glass  Bottle  Houses. 


2  Houses 
1    — 

1  — 

2  — 
8  — 
1    — 


Isaac  Cookson,  and  Son. 

Messrs.  Henzell  and  Co. 

Cookson  and  Coulthard 

Messrs.  Cookson,  Cuthbert,  and  Ca 

The  Hartley  Bottle  Co. 

Clark  and  Ca 


From  this  statement  it  appears  there  are  thirty-one  glass  houses  of  different  kinds 
at  present  employed  upon  the  Tyne,  inducing  Hfartley.  In  1810,  there  were  thirty 
houses  engaged  in  manufacturing  glass,  by  which  it  was  estimated  goods  to  the  amount 
of  £499)000  were  annually  sold,  and  on  which  the  enormous  sum  of  £  181,000  was 
paid  in  duly.  Great  fluctuations  have  taken  place  in  this  important  branch  of  trade 
within  the  last  few  years ;  but  it  is  still  conducted  with  considerable  spirit,  ingenuity^ 
and  success,  although  the  duties  were  doubled  in  the  year  1812. 

Fine  plate  glass  was  formerly  all  imported ;  but  in  1773»  a  society  of  gentlemen 
were  incorporated  for  21  years,  by  the  name  of  "  The  Gk>yemor  and  Company  of  Bri« 
tish  Cast  ^late  Glass  Manufacturers."  This  company  had  a  joint  stock  of  999  shares 
of  £  100  each,  and  established  their  work  at  St  Helen's,  near  Warrington,  in  Lanca^ 
shire.  After  the  expiration  of  thdr  first  grant,  (whidi  has  since  been  twice  renewed 
to  them ;  the  last  time  for  21  years,  from  23d.  March,  1819)>  Messrs.  Quinton  and  Co. 
estid>lished  a  similar  concern  at  London.  These  were  the  only  cast  plate  glass  manu- 
factures in  Britain,  until  about  nine  years  ago,  Messrs.  Isaac  Cookson,  &  Co.  com-* 
menced  the  business  at  South  Shields,  which  has  been  spiritedly  prosecuted  in  defiance 
of  the  most  formidable  opposition.  These  ingenious  manufacturers  have  cast  plates 
120  inches  long  and  80  broad,  which  for  fineness  and  brilliancy  rival,  and  even  sur« 
pass,  the  most  celebrated  specimens  of  either  foreign  or  Britisn  manufacture. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  m 

From  comparing  the  total  average  glass  duties  for  England,  with  the  sum  paid  in 
this  district,  it  appears  that  we  possess  about  two-fifths  of  this  branch  of  manufac* 
ture*.  Were  the  fflass  tax,  and  all  the  vexatious  restraints  with  which  it  is  accom- 
panied, tidcen  off,  uas  trade  would  rapidly  increase,  and  become  of  much  greater  im- 
portance in  this  part  of  the  kingdom. 

Potteries. — ^The  banks  of  the  Tyne  offer  many  facilities  for  manufacturing  every 
species  of  earthenware,  flint  and  potter^s  day  are  brought  fix>m  the  south  of  Eng- 
land in  ships  coming  in  ballast  for  coals ;  glass  is  plentiful  here ;  and  the  chief  mate* 
rials  for  colouring  and  glazine,  are  productkms  of  the  neighbourhood.  Yet  all  these 
advantages  were  long  overlo<Mced  6r«  neglected ;  and,  till  of  late  years,  laige  importa- 
tions of  earthenware  annually  altered  uie  Tyne.  Our  manufacturers  are  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  skill  and  dexterity,  and  in  their  productions  almost  equal  those  of  Staf- 
fordshire. Many  beautiful  and  tasteful  articles  of  potteiy  ware  are  made  at  the  ex- 
tensive works  at  St.  Anthon's ;  also  at  the  North  Shore,  in  the  potteries  at  Ousebum, 
at  Skinner's  Bum,  at  Heworth  l^or^  at  Sheriff  Hill  on  Gateshead  Fell,  and  at  North 
Shields.  There  are  also  manufactories  of  common  black  earthen  ware  at  Ouseburn, 
at  Heworth  Shore,  and  near  Walker. 

Fire  Brick  Works, — ^Fire  day  was  first  excavated  from  Blaydon  Bum  Banks  aboyt 
sixty  years  ago,  by  the  late  Mr^  John  Forster,  who  during  many  years  sold  it  in  its 
rough  state,  before  he  commenced  hn6k  making.  It  is,  however,  only  within  the 
last  twenty  years  that  this  business  has  become  of  much  consequence  on  the  riyer 
Tyne.  Previous  to  that  time  all  the  fire  bricks  and  day  wrought  were  require4  for 
the  different  famaces  and  manufactories  in.  the  neighbourhood ;  but  now  considerable 

Juantities  are  s^oit  to  London,  and  to  various  parts  of  Europe,  as  w^  09  to  the  W^t 
ndies  and  America. 
The  wcHrks  at  Blaydcm  are  now  carried  on  by  Messrs,  Forster  &  Cowen.  Mr. 
Emerson  has  begun  with  great  spirit  a  similar,  concern  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 
Mr.  6.  H.  Ramsay,  for  his  extensive  Works  at  Derwent  Haugh,  obtains  day  from 
old  workings  in  Content  Bank,  near  Winlaton:  The  owners  of  Walbottie  colliery 
have  recentiy  commenced  a  fire  brick  work  between  Newbum  and  Walbottie.  Coun 
stderaUe  quantities  of  fire  bricks  are  manufactured  at  the  convenient  works  of  Messrs. 
Hepple  &'Lfister,  at  Liow  Ben  well ;  at  Gatesh^id ;  at  Bill  Quay ;  at  Ouseimm ;  and 
at  JDent's  Hole.  The  works  at  the  latter  place  are  just  commenced  by.  Messrs.  Scott, 
&  Co.  who  have  discovered  a  stratum  of  clay  which  is  reported  to  be  of  a  veiy  supe* 
nor  quality. 

Coid  TVir.--* This  invaluable  artide  was  first  made  above  seventy  years  ago,  by  Mr. 
Dixon,  a  coal-owner  in  the  county  of  Durham.  The  discovery,  however,  was  neg- 
lected, until  the  scardty  of  vegetable  tar  during  the  American  war  rendered  t^e  ma- 
nufacturing of  coal  tar  an  object  of  national  importance ;  and  experiments  were  tried 
in  various  parts  for  improving  the  process.  In  1779,  a  lamp  black  manufacturer  at 
Bristol  ofibred  this  artide  for  sale ;  out  about  seven  years  previous  to  this  time.  Baron 
Van  Haake,  a  native  of  Silesia,  and  Joseph  Fears,  a  German,  made  experiments  in 
extracting  tar  from  coal,  at  Chatham*    The  baron  soon  after  removed  to  Gateshead, 

« 

*  Glass  is  also  a  considerable  article  of  manufacture  and  export  on  the  Wear,  where  there  are  seven  greoi:^ 
glass  bottle  houses ;  one  house  fiir  brown  glass ;  one  for  flint  glass ;  and  one  for  crown  glasa, 

VOL.  I,— (8)  2  U 


170  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

^^5  bf  eotijunctioh  with  one  Cfari^lx^her  Sdiirret»  made  fiirther  attempts  tvith  ap]^ 
nttnd  isrected  near  Messrs.  Hdi>rke^s,  &  Co.'s  founcby.  He  also  reoommended  James 
Smitb,  a  coinedian,  who  was  desirous  of  embarking  in  this  speculation,  to  fetch  Pears 
fMhk  Chaftham,  which  being  accomplished,  Smith,  under  the  direction  of  Pedra,  com- 
menced his  operations  at  Scotchwood ;  but,  tiring  of  the  concern,  sold  it  to  Midiad 
Heatori,  who,  after  carrying  it  on  for  fourteen  or  fifteen  years,  first  sold  a  share  and 
then  the  whdie  of  it  to  Mr.  Row,  who  removed  the  works  to  St,  Peter*s  Quay ;  about 
which  tiitie  Pears  perfected  the  art  of  making  lamp  bkck,  by  collecting  the  anoke 
passing  bff  during  the  process  of  making  coal  tar.  The  baron  died  in  Gateshead,  m 
1780.  tn  1781,  the  Earl  of  Dundonnud  procured  a  patent  for  **  making  tar,  pitch, 
essenitial  oils,  volatile  alkali,  mineral  adds,  salts,  and  cinders  from  pit  coal.**  His  ovens 
wer^  at  Bell's  Close.  Besides  these,  there  aiie  now  three  other  manufactories  of  these 
attides,  two  at  Heworth^hore,  and  one  at  Derwent-haugh. 

The  process  of  distilling  small  coal  in  dose  vessels  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  tar 
and  the  ammonical  Hquor,  is  gradually  superceding  the  use  of  cinder  oveiis ;  but  the 
extension  of  coal  tar  works  is,  on  the  odier  hand,  diecked  by  the  gus  light  establish- 
ments, where  the  coke,  tar,  and  ammonical  liquor,  can  be  produced  at  a  compaxativdy 
cheap  rate,  the  carburetted  hydrogen  gas  being  the  chief  object  of  manufactaire. 

C&pperas  Works. — Copperas,  or  sulphate  of  iron,  is  obtained  by  the  natural  decom- 
position of  the  martial  p3rrites  with  whidi  the  coal  mines  abound.  For  eflfecting  this 
purpose  a  pieoe  of  ground  is  chosen,  in  some  cases  extending  to  sev^ml  acres;  and  tiie 
bottom  is  rendered  impervious  to  water  by  layers  of  day.  On  this  the  pyrites  are 
spread  and  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sun  and  air,  while  the  rain  washes  away  the 
^t,  as  it  is  formed,  into  immense  reservoirs.  It  is  tfa^ti  boiled  to  a  certain  specific 
gravity,  when  it  is  removed  into  large  leaden  dstems,  in  which  the  copperas  is  chiys- 
talizea.  The  oldest  and  most  extensive  manufactory  of  this  usefiil  artide  upon  Uie 
iTyne  is  at  Felling  Shore,  on  the  south  banks  of  the  river.  It  is  also  made  at  Scotdi- 
wood,  £lswick,  Ousebum,  Dent's  Hole,  St  Anthony  at  WincomUee,  Walker,  at 
South  Field  near  WaUsend,  and  at  Willington. 

Std-Ammamac,  or  muriate  of  ammonia,  was  formerlv  made  in  large  quantities  on  the 
Tyne,  but  a  partial  regulation  of  the  exdse,  by  allowmg  the  use  of  the  bitteron  of  the 
salt  works  to  the  makers  of  this  artide  dutv  free  in  Scotiand,  while  it  has  been  diarg- 
ed  with  the  duty  here,  has  checked  or  rather  destroyed  the  business  in  this  quarter ; 
but  it  is  to  be  hoped  it  will  again  revive  upon  the  repeal  of  the  salt  tax.  Ammonia 
is  obtained  by  the'distillation  of  soot,  wooUen  rags,  the  bones  and  hoofs  of  animals, 
and  ialso  from  coal,  in  the  coal  tar  and  gas  light  manufacture.  Bones  would  generally 
be  preferred  for  the  purpose,  owing  to  the  residue  after  distillation  bdng  convertible 
into  a  bone  ash,  used  by  the  lead  refiners ;  or  into  ivory  black,  for  the  use  of  black- 
ing-makers and  others :  but  the  price  of  bones  has  of  late  much  increased,  owing  to 
their  being  found  useAil  as  a  manure,  for  which  purpose  they  are  prepared  at  Scotch- 
Wood,  Derwent-haugh,  Ousebum,  and  Gateshead.  If  the  manufacturer  of  sal-ammo- 
niac uses  the  bitteron  of  the  salt  works,  his  residum  is  sulphate  of  magnesia,  or  Epsom 
salt;  if  he  uses  common  salt,  it  is  sulphate  of  soda,  or  Glauber  salt  It  is  manufac- 
tured by  Mr.  Ilamsay,  at  D«went-hauffh ;  by  Mr.  Ridley,  at  the  Mushroom ;  and 
by  Messrs.  Bramwelf,  &  Co.  at  Heworth  Shore. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  171 

Oil  of  Fitriol,  or  sulphuiic  acid,  is  manufactured  on  an  extensive  scale  by  Mesors. 
Doubleday  &  Easterby  at  Bill  Quay.  The  acid  is  formed  by  burning  sulphur  in  im- 
mense leaden  chambers  or  houses,  and  is  afterwards  concentrated  in  platma  retorts. 
The  duty  upon  the  sulphur  used  here  amounts  to  above  £2300  p^  annum.  Until  the 
erection  of  liiese  works  about  three  years  ago,  there  was  no  other  manufactbry .  of 
the  kind  within  100  miles ;  and  as  sidj^uric  add  is  an  indispensible  article  in  n]any^ 
manufacturing  processes,  we  hope  it  will  be  the  means  of  giving  an  impetus  to  this 
operation.  Messrs  Isaac  Cookson  &  Co.  having  coxnmon  ssdt,  duty  free,  for  the  pur« 
pose  of  making  glass,  have  commenced  the  manufacture  of  oil  of  vitriol  at  South 
Shields,  for  the  purpose  of  decomposing  this  salt,  in  order  to  obtain  the  soda  it  contains. 
Messrs  Liosh,  &  Co.  of  Walker,  having  also  the  peculiar  privilege  of  using  all  the  salt 
they  can  make  from  a  salt  spring,  du^  free,  have  b^un  the  making  of  oil  of  vitri<d 
at  Walker,  for  the  purpose  of  decomposing  it  into  a  mineral  alkah.  Soda  is  like- 
wise manufactured  at  the  same  place. 

AquqfortiSy  or  nitrous  add,  single  and  double,  is  made  by  Messrs.  Doubleday  & 
Easterby,  at  Bill  Quay.  S^rit  of  Salt,  or  muriatic  acid,  is  ailso  made  there ;  where 
ttre  large  furnaces  for  the  makii^  of  Uack  ash,  for  the  us<s  of  the  so&pery. 

Soap  is  manufactured  in  the  Close  by  Messrs.  DouUeday  &  Easterby ;  and  at  Ouse* 
bum  by  Messrs.  Clapham,  &  Co.  The  quantity  manufactured  may  be  estimated  by 
the  duty  paid.  The  former  nays  yearly  a  duty  of  from  80  to  £  SS,000 ;  and  the  lat- 
ter from  15  to  £  18,000.  TaJdnff  them  together  at  £  50,000,  the  quantity  produced 
wiU  amount  to  a  l^aoth  jMort  of  fSl  the  soan  manufactured  in  the  kinc^dom. 

Sugar  BefiHeries^-^TmB  business,  which  was  formerly  ext^isively  carried  on  in 
Newcastle  and  Gateshead,  is  now  greatly  declined.  SmfffBXiA  Tobacco  are  manufac- 
tured  in  Newcastle,  Morpeth,  Alnwidc;  and  Berwick. 

Salt  Works  were  formerly  numerous  at  Howden  Pans,  Jarrow,  and  North  and 
South  Shields.  In  1605,  the  two  counties  of  Northumberiand  imd  Durham  contained 
**  158  saltpans,  which,  casting  at  the  rate  of  fifty  wei^s  a  piece,  made  in  t^  year  7658 
weighs  of  salt :  480  sdters  were  employed  in  them,  besides  120  keelm^i  for  the  cai^- 
riage  of  ooals,  and  besides  tiie  cadgers  and  wayne-men,  where  coals  are  not  carried  bv 
water.***  The  little  now  dcme  in  this  branch  ci  trade  is  confined  to  North  and  South 
Shields,  and  Blyth. 

There  are  two  very  extensive  Oil  Yards ;  one  at  Salt^meadows,  bel(»ging  to  Messrs. 
Doubleday  &  Easterby;  the  other  at  fieworth  Shore.  Thcr^r  are  capable  of  acodm* 
modatinff  a  greater  number  of  ships  than  what  usually  sail  from  the  Tjme  to  thi^ 
whale  fiwery. 

The  various  branches  of  the  Leather  business  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent  in  this 
northern  district  At  Newcastle,  Shields,  Berwick,  Alnwid^  M<M^eth,  Hexham,  and 
some  other  places,  the  tanning  buomess  is  pursued  with  great  spirit  Serveral  useful 
improvements  have  been  latdy  adopted  for  fadlitatii^  the  opwation  of  this  manufae- 
ture.    Skinneries  exe  also  earned  on  in  many  parts  ct  the  county,  with         '  ^     ^  ^ 


*  See  Bnuad^  vol.  ii.  p.  9SL  Tradition  tdls  at,  tliat  while  the  greet  pkgoe  was  making  hsToc  amongst  the 
inhabitants  of  Shields^  it  spared  the  persons  who  dwelt  abont  the  salt  wofks.  The  same  exemption  ftom  tn« 
ftction  is  also  said  to  be  enjoyed  by  the  water-carriers  and  o3Umen  in  Egypt  and  Tttfk^*   ' 


172  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

success.  Hexham  has  been  long  famed  for  its  manufacture  of  dhceSj  which  employs 
a  great  number  of  hands. 

At  Berwick  is  a  large  manufactory  of  Sacii$9g'doth.  Several  looms  are  also  em- 
ployed in  the  same  place  for  the  manufacturing  of  CMom  and  MusUm.  The  mak-- 
mg  or  Woollen  Stuffs,  and  also  Cottons,  has  been  attempted  in  different  parts  of  Nor- 
thumberland, as  will  be  more  particularly  noticed  her^ifter.  At  the  Ousebum,  near 
Newcastle,  there  is  an  excellent  flax-mill,  and  an  extensive  spinning-factory,  wUich  is 
conducted  with  spirit  and  success. 

Almost  every  district  of  the  county  has  the  convenience  of  a  water  mill  for  grind- 
ing com.  In  Newcastle  and  its  vicinity  there  are  forty  wind  mills,  of  which  one  is 
used  in  manufacturing  oil,  one  for  raising  water,  two  for  grinding  beirk,  and  the  rest 
for  grinding  com.  These  variously  shaped  serial  machines  impart  a  lively  and  pictu- 
resque effect  to  the  surrounding  scenery.  Here  are  also  thirteen  water  mills,  one  of 
which  is  used  in  making  snuff,  two  in  grinding  flint,  one  for  flax  and  yam,  and  nine 
for  grinding  com.  But  the  abundance  of  fael,  and  the  irr^ular  action  of  wind  and 
water  mills,  have  lately  combined  to  encourage  the  erection  of  steam  mills.  At  pre- 
sent sixteen  steam  miDs  are  almost  exdusivdy  employed  in  grinding  com.  There  are 
also,  exclusive  of  these  in  Newcastle  and  the  Neighbourhood^  thirty-three  steam-en- 
gines constantly  at  work  in  different  manufactories ! 

The  Ship  BuiUUng  business  upon  the  river  Tyne  gives  employment  to  a  great 
number  oi  individuds ;  and  Newcastle  built  vessels  have  long  maintained  an  excd- 
lent  character  among  nautical  men*.  During  the  late  war  several  fine  vessels  for 
government  were  buut  upon  the  Tyne,  by  Mr.  S.  Temple ;  and  a  remarkably  stout 
mgate,  called  the  Bucenhalus,  by  Mr.  Howe,  at  St.  Peter^s  Dock,  whidb  is  now  oc* 
cupied  by  Messrs.  Smitn,  &  Son.  There  is  a  convenient  dock-yard  and  floating-dock 
belonging  to  Messrs.  Farringtons,  at  the  North  Shore,  near  Newcastle.  Vessels  are 
also  built  at  the  South  Shore,  New  Deptford,  Heworth  Shore,  Bill  Quay,  Jarrow,  St. 
Anthons,  and  Howden,  where  the  business  was  formerly  conducted  on  a  lar^  scale. 
In  South  Shields  are  six  building  yards,  part  of  which  are  accommodated  with  spa* 
dous  do<5ks.  Vessels  are  built  at  the  Lowlights,  near  North  Shields,  where  are  two 
spacious  building  yards.  Many  of  these  yards  are  at  present  unemployed,  though 
some  vessels  are  building  on  speculation.  The  following  are  the  number  of  vessds 
and  their  tonnage,  built  on  the  Tyne  in  Ihe  years  specified : — In  1795,  29  vessels, 
7>858  tons ;  in  1800,  47  vessels,  11,100  tons ;  in  1810,  22  vessels,  6,276  tons ;  in 
1814',  37  vessels,  8,480  tons.  Several  vessels  are  also  built  at  Blyth,  and  occasionally 
at  Alemouth.  At  the  former  place  there  is  a  fine  commodious  dock.  The  Smacks 
at  Berwick  are  justly  esteemed  for  their  swift  sailing. 

Messrs.  Chapman,  &  Co.  of  Willington  ropery,  have  by  different  ingenious  contri« 
Vances,  for  which  patents  were  granted,  greatly  augmented  the  strength  and  durabi- 
lity of  cordage.  There  are  also  other  extensive  roperies,  and  also  sail-cloth  manufae* 
turers ;  block,  mast,  and  pump  makers,  boat  builders,  and  othtf  establishments  con* 
nected  with  ship  building,  in  the  port  of  the  Tyne, 

*  On  the  15th  June^  1S22,  a  few  young  smiths  kunched  an  irou  boat  at  the  manu&ctory  of  Messrs.  Hawkes, 
ic  Co.  Gateshead.  It  measures  31ft.  Tin*  long^  by  4ft.  6in.  wide ;  weighs  about  3cwt ;  is  adapted  for  ax 
oars ;  and  draws  only  half  an  inch  water*  This  ciroinistance  may  form  the  commencement  of  a  new  era  in 
marine  architecture  upon  the  Tyne. 


VOKTBiTS/rSERLAlffB.        -  ITS 

thete  me  the  pfittt^pH^Tf^a^  mA  diantt^Bitories  in  Hie  tototies  of  Nwtfauinber- 
hmA  ^id  'Seivcsmi.  Svt  tt  mate  det^M  neoont  of  tbe  sevenii  esti^lUfai&ents.  wiB 
be  ^ven  in  the  de&eri^cffi  tffihe  plMoe  Tr&6r«  etfeh  is  sitimted }  when  many  works 
that  are  necessarily  omitted  in  tMs  slight  sketch,  will  also  receive  their  proportionate 
share  of  attrition. 

TRADE  AND  COMMERCE. 

The  great  bo(i^  of  colonized  Rfiman  soldiery  which  at  an  ^w^  period  occupied 
the  banks  of  the  Tyne,  must  have  rendered  it  U  felvourite  port  ct  that  enterprizing 
|>eople.  Towns  tetri  villages  wet*  Rapidly  erect<sS  under  jirotectiori  of  the  grand  bar- 
rier which  exterttierf  across  the  ctrtrfitry,  and  coAWAunication  WM  P€*idered  easy  by  a 
solid  and  commodious  road.  Hert  the  agricultto^  skill  and  mtfrntfacturing  arts  of 
the  Conquerors  tfottld  be  necessarily  call«i  into"  aidtion,  and  the  Btfiited  commerce  of 
the  native  Britdfts'  Would  receivi'  *  new  and  po#6ffiU  impulse.  The  elegance,  learn- 
ing, and  unrivaBe<J  attainments,  df  the  NorthuiAbWiin  Bntons,  a(£  the  era  of  the  Saxon 
invasion,  attest  hoW  well  they  weW  instructed  bV  the  natural  weaMi  and  mercantile 
capacities  of  their  country.  UrAifel'  the  Saxon  lige,  piracy,  orrelf^fi,  alternately  pre- 
sided over  the  Tyne ;  and  during  the  Danish  irrttptions  its  WSAs  were  desolated, 
and  its-towns  reposed  in  ashes.  The  same  caLam^tfies  visited  the'  other  maritime  ^rts 
of  Northumberbnd.  But  in  th«  year  1089,  CarthOse,  brother  to  William  the  Con- 
queror, erected  «  ctfSlJe  among  tftrft'  ruins  of  PonB  .A3ii.  The  garriKifi  protected  those 
.who  exercised  the  arts,  or  attended  the  market,  ill  an  age  distingtifiSfied  for  civil  com- 
motion and  sanguinary  rapine,  ^rom  this  peridd  the  comme^e^Ment  of  the  com- 
merce of  Newc^^  may  be  date^f.  The  eharte*  erf  Henry  I.,  to  tfcW  town,  is  couched 
in  the  phrase  of'trtide,  and  menfions  "  ships  arriVinig  at  Tynenititfffli,  itinerant  mer- 
chants, goods  bibllght  to  the  tovMV  by  sea,  dying  of  doth,  buying  of  wool  and  skins, 
exportation  of  COW*;"  and  such  fifte.  Before  We  year  1650,  it  waS  justly  observed 
that  '*  the  coal  tVarfe'  had  made  Newcastle  to  floffrisli  in  all  trades." 

Newcastle,  which-  may  with  pi*otdiety  be  stiled  the  metropolis  of  Northumberland, 
is  now  the  third"  port  in  the  kingdom  in  respect  to^  the  quantity  of  shipping.  The 
following  compaiWive  view  of  the  number  of  ships'  that  came  intb  the  port  of  Tyne 
in  the  subsequent  years,  is  extrafiferf  from  the  books  of  the  TriiJt!;f-house : — 


Yor. 

■..iUsw,.. 

*.,*8U,. 

TM.1. 

1S39  , 

sm 

344 

847 

1«44 

aSa 

11 

291 

151« 

340 

64 

404 

755B 

662 

25 

1641 

29S3  . 

m 

16M 

174 

.  u 

1739 

■   3l2B  , 

ad 

1T« 

,  1  2853 

46 

1759 

3S66'  ■■ 

9^.. 

1769 

'393a 

SB' 

1777 

4726 

42 

174  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

An  accurate  view  of  the  state  of  the  trade  of  the  pcMrt  of  Newcastle  will  be  obtained 
from  the  following  account  of  the  number  of  ships  deared  every  year  at  the  custom* 
house,  from  the  Ist  of  January,  1790,  to  the  31st.  of  December,  1821 ;— 


Year. 

GoutwiM. 

TbtaL 

1790 

3921 

514 

3935 

1791 

4232 

531 

4763 

1792 

4818 

530 

5348 

1798 

5116 

439 

5555 

1794 

4359 

511 

4870 

1795 

5727 

526 

6353 

1796 

5462 

642 

6104 

1797 

5304 

529 

5833 

1798 

4739 

571 

5310 

1799 

5463 

606 

6069 

1800 

7081 

888 

7969 

1801 

5996 

912 

6908 

1802 

6113 

840 

6953 

1803 

6349 

772 

7121 

1804 

7124 

843 

7967 

1805 

7135 

854 

7989 

1806 

7476 

799 

8275 

1807 

7163 

610 

7773 

1808 

7817 

255 

8072 

1809 

7353 

338 

7691 

1810 

8124 

630 

8754 

1811 

8055 

496 

8551 

1812 

8229 

564 

8793 

1813 

7676 

380 

8056 

1814 

8668 

629 

9297 

1815 

8667 

890 

9557 

1816 

8885 

805 

9690 

1817 

8322 

1141 

9463 

1818 

9023 

1216 

10239 

1819 

8828 

995 

9823 

1820 

10183 

961 

11144 

1821 

9414 

932 

10346 

In  the  year  1777,  the  coasters  made  four  thousand  three  himdred  and  seventy  voy- 
ages ;  ana  as  coasting  vessels  on  an  average,  about  this  time,  are  supposed  to  have 
made  dffht  voyages  in  a  year,  it  follows  that  there  were  in  the  year  1777,  five  hun- 
dred and  forty-seven  vessels  in  the  London  and  coast  trade. 

The  following  is  an  account  of  the  number  of  ships  bdonging  to  the  port  of  New- 
castle^ including  Blyth,  &c.,  theur  tonnage,  and  the  number  of  seamen  employed,  in 
the  years  mentioned :-» 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  175 


T«t. 

Mo.«r8^Mi 

Tonaig*. 

Seamca. 

1800 

63S 

140,055 

7,054 

1805 

768 

165,883 

7,614 

1810 

75S 

161,900 

7,488 

1821 

8SS 

178,047 

8,846 

On  the  30th  September^  1821,  there  belonged  to  the  port  of  Sunderland  557  ship8» 
carrying  81,808  tons,  and  employing  3717  seamen.  Thus  the  two  ports  of  this  coal 
district  employ  at  present  1379  ships,  the  burthen  of  which  amounts  to  259»855 
tons,'  and  requu*es  12,063  seamen  to  navigate  them. 

It  appears  from  preceding  statements,  that  the  average  annual  export  of  coals,  du- 
ring the  three  last  years,  from  the  port  of  Newcastle  alone,  amounted  to  740,520  chal- 
drons, of  sixty-eight  Winchester  bushels  each.  Taking  into  the  calculation  the  great 
Jiuantity  of  coals  of  the  first  class  sold,  the  average  price  within  this  period  may  be 
airlv  stated  at  twenty-nine  shillings  per  Newcastle  chaldron.  This  will  make  the 
total  value  of  coals  annually  exported  £  1,073,754.  On  an  average  for  the  last  three 
years,  1,315,184  London  chaldrons,  of  thirty-six  Winchester  busnels,  have  been  sent 
coastwise,  and  83,576  chaldrons  forei^.  Now  the  freight  to  London  may  be  stated 
at  ten  shillings  and  sixpence  per  chafiron ;  but  as  a  quantity  of  coals  is  sent  to  the 
West  of  En^and,  for  which  one-half  more  freight  is  paid  than  to  London,  the  average 
freight  of  all  the  coals  sent  coastwise  mav,  exclusive  of  the  profits,  be  safely  stated  at 
eleven  shillings  and  sixpence  per  chaldron,  which  wUl  give  annually  for  freight 
£  755,232 ;  and  if  the  coals  sent  foreign  be  calculated  at  only  twenty-two  shillings 
per  chaldron,  £  91»934  may  be  added,  making  a  total  for  frdght  alone  of  £  847466 ; 
and  for  coals  and  freight,  £  1,920,920  annually. 

The  coals  annually  exported  from  Blyth,  tddng  an  average  of  the  three  last  years, 
will,  calculating  from  the  same  data,  amounts  to  £  79»472 ;  and  the  freights,  both  coast- 
wise and  foreign,  to  £  63,097 ;  which  together  make  a  total  for  coals  and  freight  of 
£  142,569.  In  the  same  manner  the  coals  annualhr  exported  from  Sunderland,  may 
be  stated  at  £  601,240 ;  the  freights  coastwise  at  £  415,424,  and  the  freights  foreign 
at  £  30,545.  This  wiU  give  the  sum  of  £  1,047»209  for  the  value  of  cofus  export^ 
and  the  amount  of  freights^  belonging  to  Sunderland*. 

From  this  calculation,  which  is  certainly  within  the  mark,  it  appears  that  the  coal 
trade  of  tiiis  district,  during  the  last  three  years,  produced  the  annual  sum  of  three 
niiUionSy  one  hundred  and  ten  thousand^  ^even  hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds  sterling ; 
or  about  maty  thousand  pounds  every  week !    But  if  to  this  were  added  the  profits  of 

*  Tke  following  is  the  quantity  of  coals  exported  from  Sunderland  during  the  last  three  years  i^^ 

Year.  Coastwise.  Fofdgn.  Total  ChaL  Newc  Meainxe. 

1SI9  S87>445  1M2U  402,76ffi 

1820  415,972  X  14,425i  430,397i 

1821  896^05  14ifilSi  410J80i 

In  the  year  1819,  there  were  cleared  from  this  port  six  dumsand,  seven  hundred  and  ninety-one  ships 
coastwise^  and  two  hundred  and  fifty-one  foreign  ;  in  1820>  seven  thousand^  six  hundred  and  fourteen  coast- 
wise^ and  two  hundred  and  twenty-three  foreign ;  and  in  1821>  six  thousand,  eighi  hundred  and  eighteen 
coastwise^  and  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  foreign. 


17€ 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTIOW  OF 


^hi]M)wners,  or  shippers,  of  coals,  ballast  dues,  port  diarges,  omporatian  dues,  the  value 
of  cinders,  coal  tar,  &c.  the  sum  wouM  be  much  greater.  This  estimate  will,  how- 
ever, afford  a  tolerably  correct  idea  of  the  great  extent  and  importance  of  this  trade. 

The  average  quantity  of  lead  shipped  at  the  port  of  Newcastle,  on  an  average  of 
nine  years  previous  to  1813,  was  667Sf  tons.  At  presenl^  we  are  informed,  the  an« 
nual  export  exceeds  7000  tons,  which  at  £  22  10s.  per  fother  of  21cwt.,  the  price  last 
yefff,  |3  w<^h  above  £  150,000.  Great  quantifies  of  silver  bullion  are  aho  exported. 
The  refinkftg  nnDs  at  Lang|ey  alone  piroduced  68,686  cainces  of  silver  in  die  year 
IgSOL — (See  fage%  98  anA  100.^ 

The  next  great  articles  of  export  are  gtass»  and  cast  »id  wrought  iron,  c^wftiehim* 
mense  quantities  a!>e  sent  to  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  Red  and  whdkie  lead^  shot, 
and  paints,  are  also  considerable  articles  of  export.  Grindstones  are  an  old  and  im- 
portant  article  oi  commerce*. 

The  other  principal  artides  of  export  are  earthenware,  copperas,  coke,  lamp  Mack, 
Firussian'blue,  sal-anmioniac,  soda,  paper,  wateh  glasses,  coal  tar,  fire  bricks,  nre  day, 
whale  oil,  salt,  coaches,  soap,  butter,  tallow,  and  pickled  sabnon,  in  considerable  quan- 
tities ;  bacon  and  hams>  many  thousands  annuafiy ;  besides  vast  qnantitieff  of  Deer, 
ale,  porter,  &c.  &c. 

The  imports  consist  prindpaDy  of  com  and  fkna  from  various  parts-;  ftnt,  hemp» 
masts,  plank,  timber,  iron-stone  and  iron  bars,  pitch,  tar,  skins,  bark,  spruce  beer, 
brandy,  runv,  geneva,  wines,  oil,  dye  stofi^,  ra^,  snu^s,  linen  ysffn,  seeds,  fruit; 
augar  and  tobacco,  &c.,  to  a  great  amount ;  though  most  <^the  groceries  come  frcmi 
London. 

There  are  at  present  twenty-one  packets  and  other  vessels  eonstantiiy  empToyed  in^ 
the  trade  between  Newcastle  and  London ;  and  vessels  sail  every  wcm:  for  Huif  and 
Gansbrouffh.  There  are  also  vessels  that  tradfe  regukrly  to  Leith,  Glasgow,  Dun- 
dee, Aberdeen,  Perth,  Arbroath,  Montrose,  Berwick,  &e.  &c.  A  regulkr  communi* 
cation  is  likewise  maintained  between  Lcmdon  and  Alemouth. 

*  The  hostmen  iv«re  incotyoratad  flu*  tbe  purpote  of  ^  the  kMding  and  bettei^  dlBposmg  of  Ma  coalM  and 
pitt  coaie^  and  stonea  called  grindslDiiei^  nib^stonei,  axid  whelMfeoneB^  in,  upon,  and  within  tho  river  and* 
port  of  Tyne."  This  article  is  almost  exdnaively  pmeiirad  about'  Windy-Nook,  Oateahead^Fell,  and  Ay  ten* 
Banks :  and  in  peaceable  times  finda.  its  wagr  ftam  hence  into  almost  ^vfj  ooracr  oflthe  worid.  They  are 
frequently  oaed  in  Africa  and  Asia  m  hand-mills  for  grinding  oom.  As  the  tmot  tha^aflbnls  them  haa  stnte 
of  various  strength  and  fineness^,  grindstones  ftw  every  purpose  they  oen  be  iqiqplied  tc^  can  be  preouied'a^ 
Newcastle.  Eonqerly  some  were  fetched  into  England  ftoia  Spajn ;  but  they  wiere  of  aa  aofte  gril  ai  not  ta^ 
be  useful  for  many  purposes.—- itfitiig,  £rtV.  wiL  iii,  p.  608, 


g£n;^ral  description 


OI*  THE 


COUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


mm 


mmtmm 


PART  ir. 


saassasi 


ftsasai 


ANTIQUITIES, 


ORTHUMBERLAND  is  peculiarly  rich  in  antk^uitie^  the  tnott 
important  cf  which  will  be  noticed  in  the  description  of  the  plaMi 
where  they  have  been  discovered.  Yet  it  appears  desirable  to  pra^ 
sent  a  comprehensive  view  of  that  stupendous  military  ve^ge  or  tbt 
Romans^  which  extends  across  the  whole  csounty ,  and  which  is  equally 

pecidiar^  surprising,  and  magnificent:    This  Win  also  afford  an  oppoiy 

tunity  of  oGEering  some  remarks  on  the  military  roads,  and  other  remains  of  hiffh  an«t 
tiquarian  interest,  which  would  not  so  prop^ly  fall  under  any  other  head  of  ^lussifi^i 
cation. 

The  first  artificial  barrier  of  the  Roman  territories  in  Britain  was  erected  by  Julius 
Agricola,  about  the  eighiy-fourth  vear  of  the  Christian  era ;  and  consisted  of  a  chain 
of  forts  whidti.  were  piffaU^l  >^th  the  Tyne  and  Iithing,  from  the  Germaki  to  the  Irish 
ocean.  Those  forts  proved  but  a  feeble  security  for  the  soulliem  teiritories  of  the 
Romans^  and  Hadrian,  A«  P.  130»  commanded  a  more  formidable  tampatt  to  be 
erected.  This  grand  military  fence  was  carried  on  from  Solway  Frith,  a  little  to  the 
west  of  the  viU^Qfe  of  Burgh  on  tiie  Sands,  in  near  a  difect  line  to  the  river  Tyne  on 
the  east,  at  the  sdte  where  Newcastle  now  stands.  Near  Portgate  it  consists  of  a 
mound  of  earth,  nineteen  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and  near  ten  feet  high ;  sixteen  feet 
north  of  this  is  a  seeond  mound,  ten  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and  having  on  its  north 
side  a  ditch  twelve  feet  deep  and  twenl^-one  feet  wide ;  and,  twenty-eight  feet  north 
of  the  ditch,  a  third  mound  of  earth,  thntjr-tfatee  feet  broad  at  its  base.  These  four 
works  keep  all  the  way  a  regular  parallism  one  to  another.  This  last,  Mr.  Horsley 
supposes,  was  the  miHtarjr  way  to  the  ancient  line  of  forts,  (erected  by  Agricola),  and 
that  it  also  served  as  a  military  way  to  this  work..    The  south  rampart,  he  imagines, 

VOL,  I,  8  Y 


178  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

has  either  been  made  for  an  inner  defence  in  case  the  enemy  might  beat  them  from 
any  part  of  the  principal  rampart,  or  to  protect  the  soldiers  against  a  sudden  attadk 
from  the  provincial  Britons.  The  dimensions  of  the  ditch  have  been  exactly  taken, 
as  it  passes  through  a  limestone  quarry  near  Harlow  Hill,  and  appears  to  have  been 
near  nine  feet  deep,  and  eleven  feet  wide  at  the  top,  but  somewnat  narrower  at  the 
bottom. 

Severus  commenced  his  laborious  and  dangerous  expedition  against  the  Caledonians 
about  the  year  SOS,  and  on  his  return,  accorcung  to  the  testimony  of  Richard  of  Ci- 
rencester, he  repaired  the  wall  of  Hadrian,  now  become  ruinous,  and  restored  it  to  its 
greatest  perfection.  During  the  dedension  of  the  Roman  empire,  the  hardy,  active, 
and  necessitous  barbarians  of  the  north,  poured  in  torrents  upon  Northumberland ;  but 
the  military  tactics  of  the  Romans  triumphed.  The  barbarians  were  driven  back  into 
their  forests  and  mountains,  and  the  Koman  veterans,  before  their  final  departure, 
assisted  the  Romanized  Britons  in  building-  a  mfHd  wall  qf  stone,  from  sea  to  sea, 
between  those  stations,  which  the  turbulence  of  former  times  had  rendered  necessary, 
and  where  Severus  had  formerly  repaired  and  strengthened  the  old  vaUum  of  turf. 

This  wall,  usually  attributed  to  Severus,  is  one  of  the  most  memorable  efforts  of 
human  skill  and  industry.  On  its  north  was  a  ditch  twenty-one  feet  wide  at  the  top, 
and  generally  about  fifteen  feet  deep.  It  is  ftced  on  each  side  with  ashler  work ;  in 
many  places  formed  on  piles  of  oak ;  the  inner  fiUin^  stones  pretty  large,  broad,  and 
thin,  set  on  edge  obliquely  in  mortar  above  the  earth,  and  in  day  beneath  it.  The 
heiriit  of  this  wall  was  twelve  feet,  besides  the  parapet,  which  was  four  feet ;  and  its 
thidkfiess  eight  feet.  In  length  it  extended  from  Carville,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Tyne,  to  Boulness,  on  the  SoTway  Prith,  and  which  has  been  found,  from  two  actual 
measurements,  to  be  above  sixty-eiffht  English  miles.  Such  was  the  celebrated  mili- 
tary barrier  erected  in  Northumberhmd,  and  over  part  of  the  adjoining  district ;  and 
considering  its  length,  breadth,  height,  and  solidity,  was  certainly  a  wonc  of  unrivalled 
magnificence,  andprodigious  labour.  But  the  wall  itself  was  but  part  of  this  extra- 
ordmary  work.  Tne  numerous  stations,  castles,  and  turrets,  which  were  constructed 
along  the  line  of  the  wall,  and  the  military  way  with  which  it  was  attended,  are  stiU 
more  worthy  of  admiration. 

Thestations  were  so  called  from  their  stabi]ity,being  the  stated  residence  of  garrisons. 
They  were  also  called  Castra,  which  has  been  converted  into  Chester,  Caster,  or  CeS'^ 
ter,  names  that  they  still  bear.*  These  were  the  largest,  strongest,  and  most  magni^ 
ficent  of  the  fortresses  which  adjoined  the  wall^  and  were  probably  occupied  by  the 


*  Honlej  observes^  that  "  the  word  9U1H0  is  used  in  G«8ar»  Tadtiit^  and  other  good  writers,  Ibr  the  duty 
of  soldiers  apon  guard,  or  for  the  men  that  were  employed  on  this  duty.  Bat,  in  the  latter  thnes,  it  is,  hy  a 
metOQomy,  iqpplied  to  the  fort  or  place,  where  soldiers  lodged,  or  were  on  their  doty."  In  some  instances  a 
stationary  castrum  afforded  a  place  of  lesidenoe  and  security  to  the  tcadsr,  and  thus  in  itself  became  a  town 
or  city.  But  the  castrametations  along  the  wall  seems  to  Imve  remained  peculiarly  appropriated  to  the  troops 
in  garrisoii,  and  the  traders  lived  in  their  immediate  neighbourhood.  When  the  Eomans  were  not  re* 
strained  by  a  previous  outline,  they  generally  planted  their  staticms  upon  the  sites  of  British  fortresses.  In 
tfie  ages  dT  mature  imperial  power,  the  internal  arrangement  of  the  castrum  was  conspicuous  for  vigorous 
simplicity  of  tactics^  and  strictness  of  discipline. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  179 

Roman  oohorts,^  from  the  time  that:  Julius  Aspcicola  constructed  a  chain  of  forts»  which 
were  afterwards  connected  and  strengthened  by  ramparts  and  ditches.r  These  sta- 
tions, as  appears  from  the  vestiges  of  mem  whicn  are  still  visible,  were  not  exactly  of 
the  same  measure,  nor  of  the  same  dimensions ;  some  of  them  being  exactly  squares, 
and  others  oblong,  and  some  of  them  a  little  larger  than  others.  The  stations  were 
fortified  with  deep  ditches  and  strong  walls,  the  wall  itself  was  made  to  coincide  with 
and  to  form  the  north  waU  of  each  station.  Within  the  stations  were  lodgings  for  the 
ofiicers  and  soldiers  in  garrison,  the  smallest  of  them  being  sufficient  to  contain  a  cohort, 
or  six  hundred  men.  Without  the  walls  of  each  station  was  a  town,  inhabited  by  la- 
bourers,  artificers,  and  others,  both  Romans  and  Britons,  who  chose  to  dwell  under 
the  protection  of  these  fortresses.  The  number  of  the  stations  upon  the  wall  was  ex- 
actly eighteen ;  and,  if  they  had  been  placed  at  equal  distances,  the  interval  between 
every  two  of  them  would  have  been  four  miles  and  a  few  paces  ;  but  the  intervention 
of  rivers,  marshes,  and  mountains ;  the  oonveniencnr  of  situation  for  strength,  pros- 
pect, and  water ;  and  many  other  circumstances  unknown  to  us,  determined  the  site 
of  these  places.  The  situation  which  was  always  chosen  by  the  Romans,  where  they 
could  obtain  it,  was  the  gentle  declivity  of  a  hill,  near  a  river,  and  facing  the  men- 
dian  sun.  In  general  we  may  observe,  that  the  stations  stood  thickest  near  the  two 
ends,  and  in  the  middle,  prolntbly  because  the  danger  of  invasion  was  greatest  in  those 
places ;  for  it  is  probable  that  the  eastern  district  of  Northumberland  was  seldom  the 
theatre  of  warfare  between  the  Romans  and  unconquered  Britons,  as  the  level  nature 
of  the  country  rendered  it  ineligible  for  the  operations  of  irregular  troops :  the  moun- 
tainous wilds  of  Cumberland  were  therefore  chosen  by  the  brave  and  undisciplined 
natives  for  the  seat  of  war,  where,  in  case  of  defeat,  they  quickly  eluded  the  pursuit 
of  the  heavy  armed  lemons  of  Rome.  The  Scots,  also,  at  a  later  period,  generally 
made  their  inroads  from  the  west,  and  that  for  the  very  same  reason. 

The  castella,  or  castles,  were  neither  so  large  nor  so  strong  as  the  stations,  but  much 
more  numerous,  being.no  fewer  than  eighty^ne.  The  shape  and  dimensions  of  the 
castles,  as  appear  from  the  foundations  of  many  of  them  which  are  still  visible,  were 
exact  squares  of  sixty-six  feet  every  way.  They  were  fortified  on  every  side  with 
thick  and  lofty  walls,  but  without  any  ditch,  except  on  the  north  side,  on  which  the 
wall  itself,  raised  much  above  its  usual  height,  with  the  ditch  attending  it,  formed  the 
fortification.  The  castles  were  situated  in  the  intervals  between  the  stations,  at  the 
distance  of  about  seven  furlongs  from  each  other,  though  they  stood  closer  where  the 
stations  were  widest.  In  these  castles  guards  were  constantly  kept,  by  a  competent 
number  of  men  detached  from  the  nearest  stations. 

The  tiures,  or  turrets,  were  still  much  smaller  than  the  castles,  and  formed  only  a 
square  of  about  twelve  feet,  standing  out  of  the  wall  on  its  south  side.  Being  so 
small,  they  are  in  a  more  ruinous  state  than  the  stations  and  castles,  which  nlakes  it 
more  difficult  to  discover  their  exact  number.  They  stood  in  the  intervals  between 
the  castles,  and  from  the  faint  vestiges  of  a  few  of  them,  it  is  conjectiu-ed  that  there 
were  four  between  every  two  castles,  at  the  distance  of  about  three  hundred  yards 
from  one  another.  According  to  this  conjecture,  the  number  of  the  turrets  amounted 
to  three  hundred  and  twenty-four.  They  were  designed  for  watch-towers,  and  places 
for  centinels,  who,  being  within  hearing  of  one  anomer,  could  convey  any  alarm  or 
intelligence  to  all  parts  of  the  wall  in  a  very  little  time. 


180  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 


Such  were  the  stations,  castles,  and  turrets,  on  this  stupendous  barrier,  and  a  rery 
considerable  body  of  troops  was  constantly  Quartered  in  them  for  its  defence.  The 
usual  complement  for  this  service  was  as  follows  :-— 

1.  Twelve  cohorts  of  foot,  consisting  of  600  men  each  .  • • 7,200 

^.  One  cohort  of  mariners  in  the  station  at  Boulness 600 

S.  One  detachment  of  Moors,  probably  equal  to  a  cohort 600 

4.  Four  alie»  or  wings  of  horse^  consisting,  at  the  lowest  computation^  of 

400  each •1,600 

10,000 


■^ 


For  the  convenience  of  marching  these  troops  from  one  jpart  of  the  wall  to  another^ 
with  the  greater  pleasure  and  expedition,  on  any  service,  it  was  attended  with  two 
militant  ways,  paved  with  square  stones,  in  tne  most  solid  and  beautiful  manner. 
One  oi  these  ways  was  smaller  than  the  other.  The  smaller  militarv  way  ran  dose 
along  the  south  side  of  the  wall,  from  turret  to  turret,  for  the  use  of  the  soldiers,  in 
relieving  their  guards  and  centinels,  and  such  services.  The  larger  Way  did  not  keep 
so  near  the  ws£,  nor  touch  at  the  turrets,  or  castles,  but  pursued  the  most  direct 
course  from,  one  station  to  another,  and  was  designed  for  the  convenien<y  of  marching 
large  bodies  of  troops. 

Four  legions  were  brought  over  into  Britain  in  the.  reign  of  Claudius,  one  conti- 
nued late,  and  two  till  the  last.  The  Ninth  L^on  was  surprized  and  destroyed  by 
queen  Boadicea ;  and  the  Fourteenth  and  the  vexiUarii  of  the  Twentieth  were  in  the 
battle,  which  decided  the  fate  of  that  brave  but  unfortunate  heroine.  The  Twen- 
tieth, called  also  Valens  Victrix,  though  it  continued  very  lon^,  seems  to  have  been 
recalled  before  the  Romans  entirely  abandoned  the  island,  for  it  is  not  mentioned  in 
the  Notitia.  The  Legio  Secunda  Augusta  is  mentioned  in  that  record,  therefore 
seems  to  have  continued  here  till  the  last,  and  to  have  been  the  onl^  one  that  was^ 
kept  during  the  whole  time.  For  though  the  Legio  Sexta  Victrix  did  also  continue 
till  the  last ;  vet  this  came  not  over  tiU  the  reign  of  the  emperor  Hadrian.  If  we  di- 
vide the  Wall  into  four  equal  parts,  the  one  and  three  quarters  from  the  east  end 
seem  to  have  been  buUt  bv  the  LEG.  II.  AUG.  and  the  two  and  last  by  the  LEG. 
VL  VICTRIX* 

Having  given  this  slight  sketch  of  the  famous  Wall,  it  remains  to  describe  briefly 
the  remams  of  its  eighteen  stations,  in  the  order  they  stand  in  the  Notitia  Imperiif . 

*  Camden  says,  that  in  his  time  there  was  a  traditionary  tale,  that  a  brass  pipe,  artificially  set  in  the  wall, 
ran  all  along  between  eaeh  tower  and  castle  (of  which  pieces  had  occasionally  been  found)^  that  whatever 
was  spoken  through  it  at  one  tower  was  conveyed  immediately  to  the  next,  to  the  third,  and  so  on 
to  all  without  interruption,  to  give  notice  where  the  enemy's  attack  was  to  be  apprehended/  Such  a  wonder* 
f\il  story  Xiphilin  tells  fVom  Dio,  in  the  life  of  Severus,  about  the  towers  of  Byzantium.  But  the  short  dis- 
tance between  these  turrets  makes  the  alarm-pipe  as  unnecessary,  as  it  is  fanciful  and  fictitious.  Salmon,  in 
his  Survey,  suggests  that  these  pipes  were  probably  found  in  some  fort  or  town  upon  the  wall,  upon  the  roof 
of  which  rain  was  collected  and  carried  forward  to  a  cistern. 

t  The  Notitia  Imperii,  whidi  records  transactions  that  occurred  after  the  mgn  of  Theodosius  ihe  First, 
and,  consequentiy  after  375,  enumerates  the  cities  per  Uneam  ValU  ;  and  partieularuses  the  tank  of  the  officers^ 
and  the  names  of  the  aeveral  divisions  of  the  Roman' army,  by  which  they  were  garrisoned. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  181 

Segedunum*  was  ganisoned  by  the  first  cohort  of  the  Lergi^  and  at  present  is  cal- 
led Walls-end^  on  account  of  the  great  Stone  Barrier  terminating  here.  By  the  peo- 
pie  in  its  neighbourhood,  the  sdte  of  the  station  is  sometimes  oiUed  the  Well-laws : 
it  has  been  about  one  hundred  and  forty  yards  square.  In  Horsley's  time»  there  were 
hillocks  of  stones  and  rubbish ;  distinct  traces  of  the  ramparts  of  the  fort ;  and  evi- 
dent remains  of  two  turrets  at  the  western  and  eastern  comers  of  the  station,  and 
another  at  the  south-west  comer.  A  wall  and  other  works  have  extended  to  the  mar- 
gin of  the  river,  as  appears  by  grass-grown  heaps  of  masonry.  The  engines  of  Walls- 
end  colliery  stand  oiuy  about  six  yards  north  of  its  sdte ;  and  its  foundations  and  out- 
works have  been  frequently  exposed  in  sinking  shafts  and  making  waggon-ways. 
Besides  immense  quantities  of  horns  and  bones  of  various  animals,  fragments  of  pot- 
tery, Roman  tegula,  coins,  rings,  and  sudi  like,  are  continually  turning  up  here ;  this 
place  has  produced  four  centurial  stones  and  an  altar  dedicated  to  Jupiter,  all  given 
in  Horsleyf . 

From  CarviUe  the  WaU  ran  westward,  and  passing  Walker,  i.  e.  the  town  by 
the  Wall,  crossed  the  valley,  and  rising  the  hill  passed  Byker  Hill  Mill.  Cros- 
sing the  turnpike  about  thirty  yards  north  of  the  toll-gate,  it  proceeded  to  the  head 
of  the  bank  overlooking  the  Ousebum,  where  was  a  castellum,  or  exploratory  tower. 
Going  down  the  hill  from  thence,  along  which  the  fosse  is  still  deep,  it  crossed  the 
Bum  north  of  Beckington's  Mill,  and  rorming  a  small  angle  at  the  arch  here,  mounted 
the  opposite  hill  to  the  Red  Bams.  Then  proceeding  in  a  straight  line  behind  the 
Keelman's  Hospital,  it  passed  the  north  side  m  Sally  Port  Gate,  where  stood  a  castellum, 
and  crossing  the  top  of  the  hill,  (still  called  the  Wall  Knoll),  it  passed  Pandon  Bum 
by  an  arch  near  the  Stock  Bridge.  Climbing  over  another  hill  towards  the  Lort 
Bum,  which  it  has  spanned  by  an  arch  near  the  present  Low  Bridge,  it  run  alons 
the  north  of  that  part  of  St.  Nicholas'  Church  called  St.  George's  Porch,  and  formed 
the  northern  rampart  of  the  next  Boman  station. 

Pons  ^lii,  now  Newcastle,  was  garrisoned  by  the  Cahors  Canumarum.  Here  the 
great  vallum  commenced  which  was  raised  by  the  Emperor  JSM\x&  Hadrian,  and  which 
extended  nearly  from  sea  to  sea.  He  was  probably  the  first  that  built  a  bridge  at  this 
place,  from  which  circumstance  it  plainly  derived  its  original  appellation.  Hadrian 
wai9  of  the  j£lian  family.  He  rebuilt  Jerusalem,  and  called  it  .£lia  Capitolina.  The 
g^mes  9t  Pincum  in  Moesia  were  of  his  institution,  and  called  lEXm  Pincensia.  Two 
medals,  one  bearing  a  bridge  with  five,  the  other  one  with  seven  arches,  were  struck 

*  Wollis  derives  Segedunum  '^  fVom  the  Roman  seges^  com,  and  the  British  dunmn,  a  hill ;  i.  e.  the  fort  or 
station  on  a  high  ground,  fumished  with  magazines  of  com,  brought  by  sea  from  the  more  soathem  pnmnoet 
ani}  landed  here."  Brand  says  seges  signifies  com  land,  and  .thinks  that  the  first  syllable  may  with  more  pro- 
bability  be  derived  from  Sedge,  a  narrow  flag  ,•  i.  e.  the  hill  of  sedge. 

t  This  forg^  inscription  was  published  in  the  Newcastle  Journal,  Aug.  6,  1775,  and  is  given  by  Pennant 

HADR, ,.,.    as  authentic.     Brand  has  given  a  representation  of  a  beautiful  fragment  of  Roman  pot- 

MVR.COND tery  found  here^  whereon  is  delineated  a  Roman  horseman  striking  at  a  naked  Pict. 

HOC  MAR Several  stones  with  iqspriptions  were  fbund,  which  the  incurious  masons  built  up  agam 

POS.COSS.D in  the  new  works  of  the  colliery.    A  mortar  and  other  Roman  remains  were  recently 

ibund  near  this  sUtion,  in  diggbig  the  foundations  of  Fawdon  Staith, 

VOL.  1.  a  Z 


i8e 


GENERAL,  DESCBIPTION  OP 


in  hit  reign.  The  JE^axk  bridge  at  Rome  has  five  arciEW6»  and  as  seven  might  span 
the  Tyne  at  Newcastle,  and  the  station  here  bore  the  name  of  the  JEixan  hriage,  it  is 
not  unfair  to  suppose  that  the  medal,  bearing  the  bridge  of  seven  arches,  was  struck 
to  commemorate  the  Imilding  of  a  bridge  at  this  place  by  Hadrian.  It  is  certain  that 
Newcastle  bridge  was  of  Rxnnan  origin,  for  coins  of  emperors,  both  before  and  aftar 
the  time  of  Hadrian,  were  found  in  its  piers  about  the  time  of  rebuilding  it,  after  the 
great  floods  in  1771.  Late  discovaies  have  determined  the  ground  which  the  Romans 
really  occupied  here ;  for  in  digging  the  foundations  of  the  new  coimty  court,  in  1810, 
two  Roman  altars,  coins  of  Antonmus  Pius,  a  beautiful  fragment  of  a  Corinthian  piL 
kr,  large  stags  horns,  and  several  other  Roman  antiquities  were  discovered.  Und» 
more  than  twenty  feet  of  rubbish  was  also  foimd  a  deep  well,  cased  with  fkie  ashlar 
work.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  square  wall,  built  on  frames  of  oak  timber.  There 
were  also  large  remains  of  other  foundations  of  thick  strong  wdils ;  and  the  whole 
sdte  of  the  court  house  was  nothing  less  than  a  chaos  of  Roman  ruins. 

The  grand  stone  barrio  when  erected,  formed,  as  was  before  observed,  the  northern 
rampart  of  Pons  JEHL  Mr.  Horsley  was  of  opinion  that  each  side  of  this  station  mea*- 
surra  six  chains,  and  that  its  east  wall  ran  at  right  angles  from  the  wall  through  St. 
George's  Porch,  and  continued  along  the  brow  of  the  mil  at  the  head  c^  the  Side,  tiU 
intereepted  by  Hadrian's  vallum  near  the  east  end  of  Bailey  Gate.  This  vallum  he 
topfMMed  formed  its  southern  rampart  A  line,  drawn  from  what  was  in  Horsley's 
time  Mr.  Ord's  house,  (now  the  scite  of  the  new  library),  to  that  part  of  the  line  d 
the  Wall  which  was  about  thirty  yards  east  from  the  present  Rosemary  Lane,  shews, 
according  to  this  antiquary,  what  must  have  been  the  western  boundary  of  this  forti* 
fication.  Mr.  Horsley  also  imagines  that  the  Castle  formerly  stood  ''  a  little  more  to 
the  soutb'^east,  in  order  to  bring  it  nearer  to  the  top  of  a  steep  hill."  This  agrees  with 
the  Milbank  MS.  quoted  by  Bourne,  which  places  the  old  castle  where  the  Half  Moon 
Battery  stood,  on  the  brink  of  the  height  overlooking  the  brid^.  The  Rev.  J.  Hodg- 
son says,  that  the  lower  part  of  ihe  wall  which  formed  the  east  side  of  the  late  Moot  HaB, 
*^  is  beyond  all  dispute  a  part  of  the  walls  <^  Pons  .£lii :  it  has  the  same  breadth,  bear- 
ing, and  meehanioal  feature,  of  the  foundations  of  a  wall  discovered  under  the  New 
Courts ;  and  a  low  Roman  door-way  walled  up,  and  its  tesselated  ashlar  work,  are 
convincing  ]Mroo£s  of  its  origin.''  Mr.  Brand,  on  this  subject,  expresses  himself  thus : 
**  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  inscriptions  belonging  to  the  station  Pons  JSlii,  are  all  built 
up  in  the  old  keep  of  the  castle,  and  that  a  nch  treasure  of  this  kind  will  some  time 
or  other  be  discovered  lurking  in  its  almost  impregnable  walls  by  fritmre  antiquaries." 

From  St.  George's  Porch  tne  Wall  has  stretchM  through  the  gardens  of  the  Vicar- 
age-house, and  intersected  the  line  of  the  Town  Wall  a  little  to  the  north  of  the 
Westgate,  and  running  on  the  right  side  of  the  turnpike  passes  near  to  the  Quarry 
House ;  then  mounting  to  the  top  of  the  rising  ground,  the  fosse  begins  to  reappear, 
and  runs  along  pretty  dose  to  the  north  side  of  tne  turnpike  to  Ben  well,  the  road  be- 
ing formed  on  the  very  Wall.  Hadrian's  vallum  is  supposed  to  have  commenced 
near  the  present  County  Courts,  and  passing  the  north  comer  of  the  Castle,  crossed 
Westgate  between  Denton  Chare  and  Bauey  Gate.  Proceeding  onward  from  near 
the  Granjmar  School,  it  intersected  tiie  line  oi  the  Town  Wall  betwixt  Westgate  and 
the  late  smaller  Gate  that  led  to  the  Forth,  and  run  up  the  hill  westward  of  me  turn- 


HORTHUMBEBJLANI)-  18S 

pike.    About  twenty  yovds  south  of  E3flwick  windmilli  this  ancient  barrier  may  be 
again  traced  as  it  stretches  towards  Benwell. 

CoNDERcuM  was  the  station  oi  the  Ala  Prima  Asturum^  Its  scite  is  near  BenweU^ 
on  the  top  of  the  eminence  before  we  arrive  at  the  second  mile  stone  from  Newcastle. 
Brand  suspects  that  the  etylnon  c^  Benwell  is  **  PenwaU/'  the  head  or  top  of  the  Wall. 
The  Astures  were  a  people  of  Spam ;  and  the  title  of  Ala  indicates  they  were  auxili- 
ary cavahy.  Each  Ala  consisted  of  four  or  five  hundred  hor$e,  and  was  divided  into 
ten  turma,  or  troops. 

The  Carlisle  road  crosses  this  station  ;  and  a  waggon-way  was  made  through  it  in 
18ia  There  are  phms  of  it,  and  of  the  Koman  hypocaust,  or  bath,  disccnrered  near 
it,  in  Brand's  History  of  Newcastle,  dra¥m  in  1751»  by  the  late  Robert  Shafto,  Esq. 
to  whom  the  gi^ater  part  belonged  at  the  time. 

The  altars  and  incnpticms  found  here  are  at  the  Rectory  of  Ryton.  One  of  them 
was  found  in  1669»  and  is  supposed,  by  Baxter,  to  belong  to  the  consulship  of  Palma 
and  Senido ;  but  Horsley  refo's  it  to  the  time  of  the  emperors  Marcus  Aurelius  and 
Lucius  Verus.  The  originals  is  scHnewhat  defaced.  The  altar,  dedicated  to  Jupiter 
Dolichenus,  a  god  of  mines,  is  mutilated  at  the  top,  but  its  inscription  is  remarlQ^>ly 
perfect*.  Reinesius  has  an  altar  dedicated  to  the  same  god  in  this  manner :  '*  J.  O.  M. 
I>olycheno  vlkAJhrrum  nasdtur ;"  and  Horsley  observes :  ^^  it  may  not  be  improper  to 
remark,  that  there  is  a  coahy  near  Benwell,  a  part  of  whdcb  is  judged  by  persons  best 
skilled  in  such  affairs  to  have  been  wrought  by  the  Romans.  The  annexed  inscrip- 
tion is  given  by  Mr.  Brand : — 

MATRIBVS  CAMPEST...  Matribus  Campe^iribus  et  Genio  ala prima 

ET.GENIO.ALiE^  PRI.HlSPRNo         Himanarum  Asiurum  ob  etrtutem  appeOa^ 

RVMASTVRVM ftr,  Gerdimna  Titus  Agrippa  tetiwbm  a  Solo 

60RDIANiE.T.  restitnii.    The  chasms  are  caused  by  enumres 

AGRpPA  PRJE.TEMPLVM  A  So...    designedly  made.    This  emperor  was  mur- 
...  TiTViT  dered  A.  D.  214;  supposing,  therefore,  this 

temple  to  have  been  first  ereeted  by  the  soldiers  of  Agrioola^  about  the  year  80,  it  was 
only  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-«ight  years  old  at  the  time  it  was  rebuilt  A  re* 
markable  aihar  mscribed  LAMIIS  TRIBUS  was  also  foimd  here :  these  goddesses 
are  supposed  to  be  the  same  as  the  three  haipies,  Aello,  Oqrnite,  and  Celamo.  This 
unique  altar  has  a  focus  which  is  still  red  witn  tfaue  aeticm  of  tne  fire :  it  was  found  at 
a  considerable  depth  bdow  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Sacrifices  to  the  infemals  wa« 
made  in  subterraneous  temples. 

In  trenching  the  ground  on  the  north  side  of  the  station  here,  many  ^ins,  large 
conduits,  several  ennous  small  altars,  and  fragments  of  inscriptions  were  discoverea ; 
and,  when  the  iron  railway  was  made,  the  foundations  of  several  buildings  appeared. 

Two  small  bronze  figures,  one  of  tiiem  a  female  Lar,  the  oth»  a  Priapus,  were 
lately  found  here,  and  presented  to  the  Antiquarian  Sod^  of  Newcastte,  by  Mr. 
Jolm  Stanton. 

*  Jovi  cpdmo  tntximo  DoUcheno  et  numinilnis  Augusti  pro  satute  impeMtotis  CoMris  Titi  JEiai  HaAnpm 
Antonmi  Aogurti  Pii  patris  patrioe  et  l^onis  secuncke  Augustfle  Moeus  Liboniiiu  Fronto  centurio  legtonis 
ejiasdem  votam  solvit  libena  mctit(K««Hor#%'#  Bom*  Brit*  209* 


I 


i 


184  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Opposite  the  second  mile  stone  from  Newcastle,  the  foundations  of  an  exploratoiy 
tower  were  found.  Near  Denton  Bimi,  towards  the  bottom  of  Benwell  Hill,  the 
turnpike  runs  along  the  fosse,  and  a  piece  of  the  stone  Wall  still  remains  about  six 
yards  south  of  the  road.  This  venerable  fragment  of  antiquity  is  about  thirty-six 
feet  long ;  has  three  courses  of  facing  stones  on  one  side,  and  four  on  the  other,  and  is 
exactly  nine  feet  thick.  An  apple  tree  grows  upon  the  top.  On  the  rise  of  the  op- 
posite hill  the  road  again  is  formed  on  the  scite  of  the  Wall,  the  ditch  being  percep- 
tible on  the  north ;  and  Hadrian's  work  may  be  traced  from  near  BenweU  Lodge  to 
the. south  side  of  Denton  Bridge.  Castle  Steads  has  no  doubt  been  the  sdte  of  a  cas- 
tella,  which  Horsley  thinks  was  erected  prior  to  the  Wall.  Fifty  yards  west  of  this 
place  Hadrian's  works  run  in  bold  and  distinct  figures.  At  Heddon  on  the  Wall  the 
turnpike  bends  to  the  right,  and  leaves  the  ditch  and  a  fragment  of  the  Wall  on  the 
left.  In  1752,  the  workmen  employed  in  making  the  military  road  to  Carlisle,  found 
a  great  number  of  curious  coins  ana  medals,  in  tiie  ruins  of  the  Wall  near  this  place. 

V INDOBALA,  at  prcscut  called  Rutchester^  but  by  the  inhabitants  Boodcke^er^  (pro- 
bably from  some  cross  that  stood  here),  was  garrisoned  by  the  Cohors  Prima  Frixa^ 
gorum.  Hadrian's  vallum  runs  about  a  chain  south  of  this  fortress,  and  the  Stone 
Barrier  passes  from  the  middle  of  its  east  and  west  ramparts,  which,  on  the  enemy's 
side,  have  been  strongly  guarded  with  towers.  The  suburbs  have  been  very  large ; 
and,  as  usual,  on  the  soutii  side.  On  the  western  brow  of  the  hill  is  a  large  cistern, 
hewn  out  of  the  rock ;  when  found,  it  was  divided  into  two  compartments,  by  a  stone 
partition,  and  had  a  three-footed  iron  candlestick,  a  small  instrument  like  a  tooth-pidk, 
and  a  great  quantity  of  large  bones  in  it ;  for  what  purpose  it  was  designed  is  ex- 
tremely uncertain.  Mr.  Brand  thinks  it  is  a  sepulchre,  and  a  most  interesting  memo- 
rial of  the  change  whidi  took  place  among  the  Komans  on  the  introduction  of  Chris- 
tianity, when  they  ceased  to  bum  the  corpse  on  a  funeral  pile,  and,  in  hopes  of  a  re- 
surrection, deposited  the  body  entire  in  the  earth.  Some  centurial  stones ;  a  brok^i 
statue  of  Hercules,  removed  to  Liondon  by  Mr.  Duane,  in  1761 ;  silver  fibulae ;  coins 
of  the  lower  empire ;  Roman  hand  millstones ;  and  bricks  inscribed  LEG  VI.V.  have 
been  found  here.  Also,  in  the  Castie  Stead,  east  of  the  station,  in  1766,  two  poor  la^ 
bourers  found  an  urn  full  of  gold  and  silver  coins,  many  of  which  thiey  disp<M9ed  of ; 
but,  according  to  WaUis,  Mr.  Archdeacon  ^^  recovered,  as  treasure-trove,  near  five 
hundred  silver  and  sixteen  gold  ones ;  almost  a  complete  series  of  those  of  the  higher 
empire ;  among  them  several  Othos,  most  of  them  in  fine  preservation." 

The  large  altar,  built  up  in  the  wall  of  the  Rectory  garden  in  Grateshead,  on  which 
is  inscribed  the  monogram  of  Christ,  was  brought  from  hence.  Mr.  Hodgson  reads 
its  singular  inscription  thus : — Bsgi  Christo  JHaminum.  Valentmnd  Begi,  Arlitro 
Hominum,  Jehovah  Begi.  This  has  probably  been  a  dedication  of  some  Christian 
soldier  in  the  Roman  army. 

Hadrian's  vallum  is  plainly  seen  on  the  south  of  the  road  leading  to  Harlow  Hill, 
where  the  pass  of  the  fosse  is  through  a  limestone  quarry.  A  piece  of  the  stone  waU> 
which  passes  through  the  houses  on  the  south  side  of  the  village,  still  remains.  Op- 
posite to  Welton,  inthe  ruins  of  a  casteUum,  was  found  a  stone  inscribed  LEG.H, 
AVG.P,  and  now  in  the  stable  yard  at  Welton  Hall,  West  of  this  village,  the  two 
barriers  ure,  in  many  places,  very  fresh ;  and  the  facing  stones  of  the  foundation  «f 


KOUTHirSIKEIlIiA^fi.  185 

Ae  Stton^  Wall  tsppesar  in  long  panallel  lines,  uniformly  10  fbet  broad,  along  the  mid« 
die.  <yf  >the  highwafv. 

HuNNUM,  or  Haibm  Cheaiers^  is  the  fifth  station  in  the  series  of  the  Notitia,  and 
was  garrisoned  by  tbe  Ala  Samniana.  It  Hes  on  both  sides  of  the  highway ;  but 
cnedidly  on  the  south,  where  the  walls,  ditches,  and  diflR^rent  offices  of  the  interior 
Qiihe ^station appear  in  large  and  conAised  heaps  of  ruihs.  The  south-east  comer 
seems  to  have  been  round,  and  a  heap  of  ru'his  there,  larger  than  at  other  places,  plainly 
iDidioates  the  remains  of  a  fallen  tbwer.  firand  found  here  the  shaft  and  capital  of  a 
column,  ¥rhich  he  imagined  had  sufiported  some  Romtin  temple.  Various  inscriptions 
have  also  been  found  h^re^  and  abundance  of  stags  horns,  heaps  of  mussel  shells,  and 
seyeral  copper  coins.  In  the  year  1808,  a  ring  of  pute  gold  (now  in  the  possession  of 
Lady  Blackett,  of  Maftfen),  was  found  in  the  adjoining  ^ound.  It  weighs  eight 
pemiy weights,  fifteen  gi^alns,  Sffid  ii^  ^t  with  a  snhaU  bine  stone. 

East  of  this  station,  whei«  Watl4nff-«treet  intersects  ttie'  Wall,  there  has  been  a 
castdhim  half  witihin  the  Wafi,  amd  hdf  withou«».  A  Ifttie  further,  and  to  the  south 
of  the  military  barrier,  is  Portgate,  a  bord<^  to%^er.  Ojmosite  the  seventeenth  mile- 
stone both  the  raxnpires  appear  mognifidcfntly,  especially  the  ditch  of  the  Wall,  which 
is  broad^  deep,  and  sharp.  Where  tHe  f&ilitiary  way  is  united  with  Hadrian's  north 
agser,  they  make  a  grand  and  beautifiil  road.  In  descen<fing  the  hill,  towards  Choi- 
lenord  Bridge,  several  yards  of  the  Wall  remain :  it  has  thorns  growing  upon  it :  three 
courses  of  aSilers  remain  at  the  bottom ;  towards  the  top,  it  consists  of  filling  stones, 
plaoeti  in  rows  featherwise  over  each  othar ;  and,  from.the  strength  of  the  cement  that 
mnds  them,  has  a  hard  and  craggy  appearance.  A  stone  was  also  found  here,  inscribed' 
by  the  Second  LegicNn. 

A  Kttle  way  bekiw  Chollerford  Miili  in  a  line  with  the  Wall,  the  Tvriie  ha^  been 
doased  by  ^  stome  bridge^  evident  remains  <^f  which- may  easily  be  tracecl  in  drj^  sea- 
sons. It  has  not  stood  at  right  angles  aigf&mt  the  strcfain,  btit  Wanted  from  the  wesir 
to  the  east  Its  foundations  appear  like  a  fine  j^vement  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  All 
the  facing  stones  h»ve  been  joined  together  with  horizontal  dove-tail  cramps,  soldered' 
into  tiicir  matrices  with  lead.  It  is  remarkable,  in  the  remains  of  this  structvire,  that 
the  largest  stones  are  pierced  with  lewis-holes,  a  circumstance  that  sufficiently  proves 
that  that  invention  was  used  in  ancient  architecture.  The  stone  barrier  falli  upon  the 
middle  of  the  fort ;  and  Hadrian's  vallum,  as  usual,  falls  in  with  its  south*  side  The 
Wall  and  its  ditch  being  neva*  continued  through  a  station,  are  here,  a^  in  all  similar- 
cases,  supi^ed  by  the  north  rampart  and  dit6h  of  the  fort.  The  ruins  of  the  out- 
bidldingB,  says  Horsley,  shew  themselves  between  the  fort  and  the  river. 

CiLUBHiTiic^  or  Waavick  Cheaten^  was  the  quarters  ot  Ala  Secunda  A&turum.  It' 
staiuls*  on  the  sloping  ground  on  the  western-  bcdik  of  the  North  Tjme,  and,  according 
to  Warburton;  its  waSis  measured  five  hundred  and  seventy  feet  from  east  to  west, ' 
and  four  hundred  from  north  to  south.  At  present  these  remains  are  grass-grown,  but 
the  lines  of  the  station  are  still  perceptible :  within  its  area  is  a  large  vault  lately  dis- 
covered.    In  a  grove  behind  Chesters^  the  seat  of  Nathaniel  Clayton,  £sq«  th^  is  a  • 

*  There  seems  to  have  been  an  aqueduct  to  convey,  water  to.tibdb  station;  (HalloD  Cfaatlera)^  from  a  qviogt 
on  the  higher  ground,  near  Watling-strcet  Gi|t«.p-T-ifor4%»  •  .         ' .  ., 

VOL,  !•  8  A 


186  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

good  speciineEi  of  the  Stone  Wall  and  its  ditbh ;  and,  near  it,  in  a  summer-house,  ie* 
veral  antiquities,  theproduoe  of  this  station.  One  of  these  is  a  broken  statue  of  £u* 
ropa,  in  freestone.  The  drapery  of  the  godUtess  is  well  designed,  and  neatly  executed; 
but  the  bull  is  much  too  small :  its  feet  relt  upon  a  sinuous,  scaley  fish,  sjnoiboiical  of 
the  sea,  and  the  pediment  of  the  statue  has  a  neat  bordar  in  has  relief.  But  the  most 
interesting  incription  here  is  on  a  freestone  table,  neatiy  moulded  around,  but  broken 
into  four  pieces.  The  letters,  though  remarkably  legible,  are  much  complicated; 
many  of  them  have  been  purposely  erased ;  and  all  the  lines  are  imperfect  <m  the 
right,  by  a  part  of  the  stone  being  lost  From  what  remains  it  may  be  gathered,  that 
it  was  erected  by  the  second  wing  of  the  Astures,  in  the  first  or  second  consulship  of 
Alexander  Sevarus,  to  commemorate  the  rebuilding  of  some  ediike  ruined  l^  age, 
and  which  was  dedicated  on  the  third  of  the  kalencU  of  November. 

Horsley  has  a  few  sepulchral  and  centurial  inscriptions,  and  certain  figures  in  rdief, 
found  in  Cilumum,  but  none  of  them  any  otherwise  important  than  as  objects  oi  cu- 
riosity. The  sepulchral  stones,  now  at  Walwick-grange,  were  found  by  the  side  of 
the  Koman  road,  between  that  place  and  Chesters*. 

Pbocolitia,  now  called  CarrawhrugK  or  Carrowe^  supposed  to  mean  iJ^  city  of 
ike  height,  was  garrisoned  by  the  Cohore  Prima  Batavorum.  It  stands  in  a  high  bleak 
situation.  Amidst  the  ruins  of  its  suburbs  on  its  west  side  is  a  fine  spring,  cased  with 
hewn  stone,  and  which  seem  to  have  been  inclosed  in  a  buildinir .  Two  beautiful 
altars  were  discovered  here,  and  removed  by  Mr.  Warburton  tolie  Hbiai^  at  Bur- 
ham,,  where  they  are  at  present.  The  first  of  them  confirms  the  Notitia  m  placing 
the  first  Batavian  Cohort  here ;  and  the  second  is  a  dedication  *^  to  the  welfare  of  the 
Roman  People  by  Caius  Julius  Raeticus,  a  centurion  in  the  sixth  Legion." 

About  half  a  mile  south  west  from  Cairaw,  upon  a  high  ground,  is  a  square  fort, 
now  called  Bioom-dykes ;  it  is  as  large  as  the  i<xt  of  Carrawbrugh,  and  probably  has 
been  for  exploration,  or  for  the  lestiva  of  this  fort 

Sewing  Shields  castie  was  mistaken  by  Camden  for  the  station  of  Hunnum : 
^*  but,  (says  Horsley )» I  saw  nothing  that  was  Roman  in  it.  The  castie  itself,  now  in 
ruins,  and  the  motes  beside  it,  are  undoubtedly  of  much  later  date.  And  I  observed 
several  trenches  thereabouts,  particularly  a  large  and  long  one,  which  reaches  from 
Busy-sap  cross  the  passes  between  the  mountains.  But  these  are  all  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Wall,  and  must  certamly  have  been  made  in  later  times  for  securing  the 
neighbouring  passes.  Probably  they  are  no  older  than  the  times  of  our  famous  Moes- 
troopersy  who  mk^ht  conveniently  shelter  themselves  amon^  these  hideous  mountains 
ana  mosses.''  Much  of  the  WaU  was  lately  taken  up  in  this  neighbourhood,  to  build 
certain  farm  offices  at  Sewing  Shields,  when  a  few  caiturial  stones  ware  found.  Here 
Hadrian's  vallum  and  the  stone  barrier  are  found  ruiming  at  some  distance  frcmi  eadi 
other.    The  former  sweeps  round  the  foot  of  the  hiUs,  while  the  latter  traverser  the 

*  At  this  stsAkniy  a  military  way  has  left  the  Wall,  and  proceeded  in  a  curve^  by  Newburgh  and  Little 
Cbeateriy  to  Caervoran,  where  it  has  again  joined  it  Mr.  Warburton,  contrary  to  the  opinion  of  Horsley 
and  Gordon,  thought  that  the  Maiden'4vay  from  Kirkby-shore  in  Westmoreland,  down  South  Tindale,  to 
CmtvanxLt  came  Una  way  to  the  bridge  of  CQumum,  and,  after  crossing  Watling-street,  proceeded  on  the 
line  of  die  DmtM  Canuemm,  nrto  Sootfamd,  near  Berwick  upon  Tweed. 


NORTHUMBteULAND.  187 

Inows  of  precipices  and  tiie  tops  of  the  highest  hills.  In  the  hollow  intervals  between 
Hie  rodks,  as  Horsley  observes,  the  Romans  "  have  often  drawn  a  ditch,  and  in  these 
plttoes  usually  O'ected  their  castella.'*  Busy  Grap  is  about  a  mile  west  of  Sewing 
shields,  and  by  tradition  reported  to  have  had  its  name  from  the  many  hot  contests 
that  have  be^i  at  it  between  the  Romans  and  Caledonians. 

BoBCOVicus,  or  Htmse  Steadsy  was  the  station  of  the  Cohors  Prima  Tungarum. 
It  has  been  happily  termed  by  Dr.  Stukely  the  Tadmar  of  Britain ;  and  Horsley 
observes,  that  "  the  vast  ruins  of  the  station  and  town  are  truly  wonderful.*'  This 
station  stands  on  the  brink  of  a  rocky  eminence,  and  has  the  Stone  Wall  for  its 
northern  rampart.  The  ground  before  it  slopes  towards  the  south ;  and,  on  the  west, 
where  it  is  most  fertile,  it  has  been  formed  into  flights  of  broad  terraces ;  a  favourite 
method,  among  the  ancients,  of  cultivating  the  sides  of  hills.  The  fort  is  about  seven 
chains  in  lei^^  and  five  in  breadth.  Its  area,  on  the  north  side,  is  nearly  plain ;  but 
its  southern  part  is  covered  with  confused  heaps  of  ruins,  broken  columns,  pilasters, 
mouldings,  figures  of  gods,  and  warriors.  The  suburbs,  divided  into  streets  and 
squares,  extend  over  several  acres ;  and  traces  of  buildings  are  discernible  on  the  south 
and  west,  to  the  distance  of  twenlr  furlongs.  On  the  margin  of  the  brook,  a  little 
east  of  the  station,  are  the  remams  of  a  bath.  **  There  may  be  two  or  three  other 
stations,''  says  Horsley,  **  in  Britain,  (as  Burd-Oswald,  Elenborough  and  Lanchester), 
that  exceed  this  in  number  and  variety  of  inscriptions,  but  none  equals  it  in  extent  of 
ruins  of  the  town,  or  number,  variety,  and  curiosity  of  its  sculptures."  On  Chapel- 
Hill,  a  short  distance  south  of  the  station,  are  ruins  of  a  temple  of  the  Doric  order ; 
a  large  fra^ent  of  a  Doric  capital  lying  prostrate  by  it  some  years,  consisting  of  two 
toruses  plain ;  also  many  broken  coliunns.  Gordon  saw  five  or  six  altars  within  the 
ruins  or  this  temple ;  and  two  of  them,  dedicated  to  Jupiter  by  the  first  cohort  of  the 
Tungrians,  are  given  in  Horsley ;  in  whose  work  are,  also,  another  altar  to  Jupiter, 
one  to  Mars,  one  to  Hercules,  and  one  to  the  Dece  Matres,  all  by  the  same  cohort. 
To  this  place  also  bdong  several  sepulchral  stones,  and  curious  figures  carved  in  relief, 
especially  three  stones,  on  each  of  which  are  cut  three  female  figures,  supposed  to  re- 
present the  Deas  Matres,  the  l^arcas,  or  some  such  deities. 

ViKDOLANA  was  garrisoned  by  the  CoAors  Quarta  OaUarum.  It  is  sometimes 
called  the  Bcwers^  but  generally  LitUe  Ckfsters.  It  stands  a  few  chains  south  of  the 
military  way  frmn  Walwidc  C5he8ters  to  Caervoran,  and  a  mile  and  three  quarters 
south  of  both  the  walls.  Its  ramparts  are  seven  chains  in  length  and  four  in  breadth, 
and  visible  quite  round :  their  comers  have  been  guarded  with  circular  towers.  On 
the  south-east,  the  ground  slopes  rapidly  into  Bardon  Bum ;  and  on  the  west  and 
south-west  are  the  remains  of  a  town.  The  ruins  of  a  bath  were  discovered  on  the 
west  side,  fifty  yards  from  the  ramparts.  Here  is  a  hill  called  Chapel  Steads,  and, 
near  it,  a  bog  in  which  great  quantities  of  urns  have  been  found.  Several  curious 
inscriptions  and  figures  have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this  station,  which 
was  probably  erected  prior  to  the  days  of  Hadrian. 

Where  the  military  way  branches  off  to  Great  Chesters,  there  are  four  tumuli,  or 
barrows,  called  the  JPaur  Lowes.  The  Romans  frequently  erected  tumuli  of  turf 
over  the  graves  of  their  soldiers.  In  this  neighbourhood,  <»i  a  hill,  is  also  a  monu- 
ment caUal  the  Mare  and  Foals :  it  consists  of  three  rude  pillars  of  stone,  two  of 
them  broken  in  the  midst. 


188  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Mbica,  or  Great  Che^ter^y  was,  according  to  the  Notitia,  the  quarters  of  the  Cohort 
Prima  Astarum.  The  ramparts  of  this  station  are  better  preserved  than  fiiose  of  loiy 
oti^r  station  on  the  Wall,  and  the  lines  of  the  principal  biujdangs  may  still  be  cKs. 
tincdy  traced.  Two  of  its  ditches  also  remain,  and  large  vestig^  of  a  town  on  1^ 
south  and  east.  Some  pieces  of  an  iron  gate  and  hinges  have  been  found  in  the  ruiu. 
Camden  Ivas  an  akar  founfi  here,  which  had  been  erected  to  the  welfare  of  Desidi^ius 
iEllianus  (a  praefect)  and  his  famUy,  in  the  consulship  of  Tuscus  and  Bassus,  A.  D.  858. 
Here  also  are  some  curious  sculptures,  one  in  particular,  representing  two  Victories, 
each  on  the  wings  of  an  eagle,  and  holding  a  vexillum ;  and  below  them  two  wild 
boars  rushing  furiously  past  a  tree  towards  each  other :  tlds  has  doubtless  be^i  set  up 
as  a  type  of  victory  over  the  Caledonians.  Some  Roman  tomb-stones  remain  in  th^ 
neighbourhood.  In  digging  up  the  foundations  of  a  large  building  in  the  upper  part 
pf  uie  station,  in  1767^  was  found  a  very  large  stone,  nearly  square,  with  a  handsome 
moulding.  Both  Wallis  and  Brand,  have  given  oopies  of  the  inscription,  which  is 
rather  mutilated ;  but  it  relates  to  the  rebuilding  of  a  ruined  granary  in  the  time  of 
Ale.xander  Severus.  From  this  stone  it  appears  that  the  second  cohort  oi  Astur^ 
and  not  the^ri^^,  as  stated  in  the  Notitia,  was  in.  gamson  here. 

Among  the  dififs,  near  Walltown,  is  a  Wbll,  near  whidi  Horsley  saw  a  Roman 
stone.  It  has  been  inclosed.  Wallis  supposes  that  Faulinus  baptized  kmg  Egftid 
here ;  but  Hutchinson  inclines  to.  think  it  was  Edwin,  king  of  Northuinberland,  who 
supplied  the  wells  by  the  way  sides  with  iron  dishes,  for  the  convenience  of  travelers* 

Magna,  now  called  Qaervtyran^  which  probably  means  the  town  and  castle,  was 
ganiso^ied  by  the  Cohars  Prima  Jbalmatorum.  Mr.  Brand  saw  a  stone  at  Glenwhelt, 
a  village  near  this  station,  inscribed  CIVITAS .  DUMNI,  or,  «  The  Ciiy  of  the  Hitt^ 
and  hence  concludes  that  this  place  was  anciently  called  Dumnum.  It  stands  about 
twelve  or  tliirteen  chains  south  of  both  the  Walls ;  and,  within  its  ramparts,  contains 
about  four  acres  and  a  half.  The  ramparts  and  ditch  are  stUl  disoamible.  The  sub- 
urbs have  been  on  the  south  and  west,  on  th.e  d^es^nt  towards  the  Tippal.  The  mili- 
tary way,  called  the  Maiden  Way^  passes  through  this  station^  and,  as  is  said,  goes  to- 
Bewcastiie,  which  is  about  six  miles  from  it. 

.  A  fine  tablet,  bearing  the  following  interesting  inscription  to  the  Zodiacal  Ceres, 
was  lately  discovered  here ;  and,  in  1816,  presenl^  to  the  Antiquarian  Society  of 
Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  by  John  Blenkinsop  Coulson^  Esq.  of  ^Kenkinsop  Castle.  :*-* 

IMMINET  LEONI  VIRGO  CAEl^ESTI  SITU, 
SPICIFERA,  JUSTI  INVENTRIX,  UEBIUM  CONDITRIX, 
EX  QUIS  MUNERIBUS  NOSSE  CONTIGIT  DEOS; 
ERGQ  EADEK  MATER  DIVUM,  PAX,  VIRTUS,  CERES. 
DEA  SYRIA,  LANCE  VITAM  ET  JURA  PENSITANS. 
IN  CAELO  VISUM  SYRIA  SIDUS  EDIDIT 
LIBYiE  COLENDUM  INDE  CUNCTI  DIDICIMUS. 
ITA  INTEH.EXIT  NUMINE  INDUCTUS  TUO, 
MARCUS  CAECILIUS  DONATINUS  MILITANS 
TRIBUNUS  IN  PRAEFECTO  DONO  PRINCIPIS. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  189 

Mr  Hodgson  obserres,  that  this  inscription  consists  of  ten  verses,  of  the  same  kind 
as  those  in  which  the  comedies  of  Terence  are  written ;  and  the  Rev.  6.  S.  Faher» 
rector  of  Long  Newton,  in  the  county  of  Durham,  has  given  a  very  learned  exphouu 
tion  of  this  curious  document,  in  the  Archandogia  iEUiana.  The  following  are  his  in- 
troductory remarks : — 

^*  Marcus  Caecilius,  the  author  of  the  curious  inscription  to  Ceres,  lately  discovered 
at  Caervoran,  on  the  Roman  Wall,  idaitifies  that  goddess  with  the  zodiacal  consteUa^ 
tion  Virf^ :  and,  both  in  this  identification,  and  in  the  charactar  which  he  ascribes  to 
her,  he  displays  an  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  old  theological  notions  of  the  G«n« 
tiles.  He  ]nt>nounees  her  to  be  the  com*bearing  divinity,  the  inventor  of  justice,  the 
founder  of  dties,  and  thence  the  author  of  the  worship  of  the  deities*  Such  being 
her  character,  he  determines  her  to  be  the  same  person  as  the  Universal  Mother  of  the 
Gods ;  the  same  also  as  the  Syrian  goddess,  respecting  whom  we  have  a  curious  trei^ 
tise  from  the  pen  oi  Lifdan ;  and,  viewing  her  under  her  benignant  aspect,  as  omtra- 
distinguished  from  that  vindictive  aspect  which  she  bears  uoider  the  name  of  Uemeter* 
JBrmnys,  he  celebrates  her  as  being  essential  Peace  and  Virtue.^* 

Most  of  the  numerous  inscriptions  found  at  Ca&rvoran  are  mutilated  apd  imimpor* 
tant.  Sepulchral  stones,  the  stotue  of  a  Roman  soldier,  beautifully  executed,  a  brass 
Lar,  ^old  rings,  abundance  of  stags  horns,  and  cinders  of  ooels^  have  been  discovered* 

Thirlwall  Uastle  is  the  remains  of  a  strong  old  border  tower,  and  was  the  residence 
of  a  family  of  its  own  name  for  many  generations.  As  a  buildii^,  it  has  no  relation 
to  the  Roman  Wall,  though  it  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name  firom  the  Scots  pieic* 
ing  the  Wall  here;  for,  savs  Fordun,  Thirlwall,  in  Latin,  is  Murus  PerihraiM, 
Horslev  also  observes,  that  the  castie  might  be  so  odled  from  the  passage  of  me  river 
through  the  Wall.  There  is  to  the  south,  in  sight  of  it,  a  camp  with  a  single  vallum 
and  fosse,  called  Blaek  Dykes;  and,  west  of  it,  a  quarter  of  a  mile»  anower  camp« 
On  the  west  side  of  the  rivulet  called  Pokross,  and  near  Mumps  Hall,  Severus's  ditch 
appears  large  «id  distinct,  being  detached  about  eight  yards  from  the  WaU.  In 
Horsley's  time  it  was  about  thirty  feet  wide  at  the  top,  and  fifteen  at  the  bottom,  and 
its  depth  about  ten.  This  antiquary  saw  no  r^nains  of  a  bridge  either  at  Foltioss  or 
Irthing. 

Amboglanna,  or  Burdogwald,  was  the  station  of  the  Cokors  Prima  ^Ua  Daco^ 
rum.  It  stands  upon  a  lar^  plain,  at  the  head  of  a  steep  descent  towards  the  livev 
Irthing,  having  the  out-buildings  chiefly  on  the  south-east.  The  castAun  forms  a 
parallelogram  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  north  and  south,  by  eighty  yards  east 
and  west.  Horsley  found  the  foundations  of  the  houses  within  this  fort  very  visible: 
he  measured  the  thickness  of  their  walls,  and  found  them  to  be  about  twenty-eight 

*  The  old  mythologists^  says  Mr.  Faber^  «S[ree  that  Ceres,  Cybele^  Venus,  the  Syrian  goddess  DeroetOj 
the  Phconician  Astarte,  the  Egyptian  Isis,  the  Hindoo  Iswara,  and  the  British  Ceridwen,  were  all  one  and 
the  same  deity ;  whom  they  describe  as  the  Universal  Mother  Earth,  having  within  her  womb  all  the  hero 
gods ;  and  having  for  her  astnNiomical  representative  the  lunar  boat  or  crescdit,  which  arose  firom  t^  notion 
th{it  the  earth  w#^  like  a  ship.  Ceres,  the  goddess  of  this  ship,  was  elevated  to  the  sphere  In  the  Zodiacal 
catasterism  of  Virgo,  This  writer  concludes  by  remarking,  that  this  inscription  to  Ceres  is  in  the  most  per* 
feet  unison  with  hi$  work  on  the  origin  of  Pagan  IdoUtry. — Arch.  JEliana^  v,  u  pi*  It  f*  1 10, 

VOL.  I.  SB 


190  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

nches,  and  the  distance^  or  bteadkh  of  the  passage  btfweett  the  jrtMrft  of  hotees  ojr  bar- 
racks, to  be  no  more  than  thirty-two  indies.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  station  theve 
seemed  to  be  the  remaiiis  of  a  temple.  The  turrets  in  tibe  south  raiopart,  on  each  side 
of  the  g»te»  wiere  a]ao»  in  his  time,  very  visiMe ;  uid  over  againat.  the  entry  Were  the 
ruins  ox  the  Prsetorium,  with  a  house  or  two  upon  them.  Camden  found  six  atkans 
here  dedicated  to  Jupiter  Optimus  Maximus ;  ahd  an  ihseriptaon  to  be  read.  Pro  sa- 
lute donini  noatri  noaximi  ac  fortissimi  Impecatoris  Caesaris  Matci  Auielii  Maximiani 

sdificavit;    and  LEG.  VL  VIC.  PF.  I  e.  '<Tbe  sixth  LegioD,  victorious,. 

pious,  and  happy,  made  this."  In  the  Britannia  Romana  cue  published  two.  other  dU 
tars  to  Jopiter  Optimus  Maximus,  found  here ;  and,  one  himored  yards  eastward,  in 
a  kind  of  rain,  were  dug  up  two  more  altars^  dedicated  to  the  same  d^ty,  by  the  Co^ 
bors  Prima  JElia  Daeorum  Postumiana,  by  two  different  tribunea  Here  abo  wete 
found  dedications  to  Mars,  and  the  god  Cods.  Mr.  Brand  found  a  sepuldannL  stone 
in  the  milkJMiuse,  whicb  he  transbtes  thus^  ''  To  the  Dii  Manes  of  Aurdhis  Conedi^ 
dtt^— he  lived  one  year  and  ten  daya-«the  son  of  Aurdiantis  Julianua  the  Tribune ;" 
the  original  of  this  is  at  the  Rectory  at  Ry  ton ;  most  of  the  ori^^inals  of  the  otiiers 
were  once  at  Naworth  Casde,  from  whence  (Bimnd  says),  they  were  j^umdered  by  Sir 
Thomas  Robinscm,  and  Dr.  Graham,  of  Netherby.  HorsLey  mmtKins  twenty-five 
inscruytions,  which  he  refers  to  this  station.  .     . 

A  little  west  of  the  brook  Banks-bum,  at  a  house  iealled  Hare  Hill,  in  Hordey's 
time,  was  the  highest  part  of  the  Wall  then  to  be  met  with,  but  the  facing  atonea 
were  removed:  ^  We  measured^"  says  he,  '^  three  vards  and  a  half  from  the  ghiund ; 
and  no  doubt  half  a  yard  more  is  covered,  at  the  bottom,  with  rubbish :''  at  present, 
this  part  is  ten  feet  high  and  five  yards  long. 

Petriana  was  gamsoned  by  the  Ala  Petriama^  and  is  at  present  called  Cambeck 
Fort;  or  Castie-steEuls.  It  Hes  almost  opposite  to  Brampton,  between  Cammock  beck, 
or  Cambedk,  and  the  Irthing,  having  the  former  running  past  its  north-east  wall,  un« 
der  &  steep  bank  and  decUning  ground,  scattered  with  foundations,  skiping  firom  its 
south-east  front  to  the  Irthing.  Its  longest  side  is  about  four  Gunter's  diains,  and 
tike  shortest,  two  and  a  half.  Some  houses  have  beoi  built  out  of  its  ruins,  whidi, 
from  the  bkckness  of  the  stones,  appear  to  have  suffered  by  fire.  Great  numbers  of 
naik,  and  Inrass  and  iron  run  together  into  lumps,  have  been  found.  Mr.  Goodman, 
af  Carlisle,  diaoovered  much  earthenware  of  various  shapes  and  colours,  a  smafl  came- 
lian  seal,  and  sent  copies  of  several  inscriptions  to  Mr.  Gale.  Horsley  found  this  f<»rt 
tovered  with  wood,  in  which  state  it  remained  when  visited  by  Brand  in  1783 ;  hot 
Hutton  says,  its  foundations  in  1801,  were  raised,  and  a  gentleman's  house  built  upon 
its  soite.    It  is  detached  from  the  WaU  to  the  south  about  twelve  chains. 

Horsley  gives  ten  inscriptions  ascribed  to  this  station.  On  one  stone  the  Camvdauni^ 
a  people  of  ancient  Britain,  appear  to  be  mentioned.  Galgacus,  the  famous  Caledo- 
nian King,  is  introduced  by  Tacitus  as  affirming  that  many  Britons  were  in  the  Ro^ 
main  army,  and  "  lent  their  blood  to  the  service  of  a  forei^  power." 

About  half  a  mile  above  Gelt-bridge,  there  is  an  inscnption  cut  on  the  face  of  a 
jock  caQed  the  Old  Quarry.  It  is  al^ut  half  way  up  a  steep  hill  that  overhangs  the 
ri^«;Gelt.  As  time  has  made  it  somewhat  faint,  it  has  been  differently  copied  by 
differaot  antiquaries.*    Horsley  reads  it  thus : — VexiUaHo  legionis  secunAe  AvgusttB 


IJOHTHUMBERLAtNI):  191 

db  f4rtutem  app^UUm  mih  Agricda  opiwni6 :  Aproet  Mwcmo  commUbm  exdgUma  Jtier-^ 
ikxHi  MereaHus  JUnt^  Firmii.  The  consids  heve  lyi^tioiied  hd[d;their  office  in  A^  D. 
2Vr,  under  Severas.    The  optie  wis  a  diqiuty  under  a  centurion  or  olJier  officer*. 

Aballaba,  now  called  Watch  Cross,  was  garrisoned  by  the  humerus  Mausorum. 
It  stands  above  a  mile  south  of  bo&  the  Bamers»  and  on  the  side  of  the  military  way 
which  runs  in  a  straight  line  from  Cambedc  Fort  to  Stanwicks.  Its  ramparts  are  stiH 
visible,  and  measure  about  four  chains  and  a  half  squ^e.  It  is  the  smallest  station  on 
the  Wall,  a  drcmnstanoe  which  aecounts  for  it$  being  garrisoned  by  so  small  ft  de- 
tEu^hment  of  soldiers,  and  for  t^  few  antiquities  it  has  |H-oduced.  Half  a  mile  west 
of'  this  place,  at  Bl^tam,  the  Wall,  soya  Horsley,  runs  throi^h  mossy  ground,  and 
the  foundation  here  has  been  made  with  piles  of  wood.  Hadrian's  vallum  goes  round 
this  bad  ground,  and  runs  at  ten  diains  distance  from  the  WalL 

CoKOA VATA  was  the  station  of  the  Coh&rs  Secunda  Lergarum,  and  at  inresent  is 
called  Stanwicks,  a  name  probably  signifying  Stone  Town,  or,  as  some  would  have  itj 
derived,  from  stone  wegges,  that  is  the  place  upon  the  stones,  or  stoney  way.  The 
traces  of  the  station  here  ore  extremely  dubious,  which  perhaps  may  be  accounted  for 
by  its  contiguity  to  Carlisle,  and  its  remains  have  Ions  since  been  used  in  the  bridge, 
walls,  and  other  buildings  in  that  town.  The  parish  diurch  akK>  stands  upon  the  sta- 
tion, and  has  been  built  with  materials  out  of  it.  The  ins(aiptions  fotmd  here  are  not 
numerous. 

AxELODtmuM,  now  BrughmponJSaflds,  was  the  station  of  the  Cohors  Prima  His^ 
panarum ;  which  Horsley  supposes  lay  in  camsbn  at  Elenborough  befcMre  its  removal 
to  this  place.  The  station  was  about  two  hundred  y^rds  east  of  the  church ;  its  scite 
is  callea  the  Old  Castle,  and  the  lines  of  its  ramparts  are  still  visible,  and  measure 
about  one  hundi^  and  thirty-six  yards  square.  Dr.  Lyttleton,  bishop  cf  Carlisle, 
found  upon  an  altar,  dtig  up  in  the  vicar's  garden,  tlus  inscription :  DEO  BEL  AT- 
VCA,  ruddy  cut,  but  very  legible ;  and,  in  1798,  another  was  fcvund  in  a  drain  at 
Hawstones,  inscribed  to  the  same  deit^.  Belatucadro  was  a  local*  deity,  the  saine  as 
Mars,  and  has  had  fnany  altars  inscribed  to  him  in  these  jparts. 

Between  Brugh-upon-Sands  and  Stahwix;  in  the  parish  of  Kirk  Andrews,  in  1808^ 
an  altar  was  founds  mty-two  inches  high,  two  feet  broad,  and  fourteai  inches  thick,  and 
bearing  an  inscription,  which  has  been  read  thus  x-^hucms  Junius  Vietorinus  et  Cams 
jEUanus  Legati  augustales  Legionis  sexUe  victricis  piiJeKcis  ob  res  trams  tnUum  pras^ 
pere  gestas.  L.  Junius  Victorinus  and  C.  .£iianu6,  lieutenants  of  the  nxth  Lemon, 
erected  this  on  account  of  certain  matters  successfully  performed  beyond  the  Wdl. 

Gabrosi:ntum,  where  the  Kotitia  places  the  Cmors  Seeunda  Thracum/iA  at  pre- 
sent called  Drumburgh.  The  fort  is  about  one  hundred  and  ten  yards  square,  its  ram« 
parts  high,  and  its  ditch  very  deep.  Abundance  of  stones  have  been  obtained  from 
its  area,  which  is  now  converted  into  a  garden  and  orchard  to  Drumbivgh-Castle,  an 
old  mansion  of  the  Dacres,  built  out  of  the  materials  of  the  Station  and  the  WalL 

*  This  msGription  has  been  advanced  in  evidence  of  Severus  being  the  author  of  the  Stone  Barrier;  but 
thi^  emperor  did  not  come  inito  Britain  until  the  year  %0%,  **  Under  the  presumption,  therefore/  as  Mr. 
Hodgson  observes,  ''  that  it  is  more  agreeable.to  the  usual  dispositions  of  men  to  record  the  end  than  the  be* 
Hfinning  of  any  gzest  undolakingi  we.condude  that  this  quarry  has  not  been  us6d  since  the  year  207,  and 
that  this  inacription  has  no  reference  to  the  building  of  the  Stone  Barrier." 


192 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 


As  the  castle  now  belongs  to  the  Lowther  family,  some  of  fliese  inscriptions  have 
been  removed  to  their  seat  at  Lowther  Hall.  A  draw-wdl,  cased  with  fine  ashlar 
work,  was  discovered  herd  about  the  year  1780,  and  a  similar  one  at  some  little  dis^ 
tance. 

Hadrian's  works  ended  a  short  distance  west  of  Drumburgh*.  Great  quantities  of 
the  stones  of  the  Wall  have  been  dug  up  at  Easton  ;  where  it  has  made  a  circuit  by 
the  rising  ground,  to  avoid  the  marsh.  A  mile  east  of  Boulness  stands  something  like 
a  verv  large  tumulus,  on  the  top  of  which  remains  a  fluted  f ragpient  of  a  column :  it 
is  called  **  Fishers  Cross."  Here  the  Wall  appears  aeain :  it  is  in  many  places  fringed 
with  ivy,  and  a  fence  grows  upon  its  top.  lit  two  places  it  is  six  feet  high ;  but  the 
facing  stones  have  been  removed. 

TuNNocELUM,  the  last  of  the  stations  of  the  Wall,  was  garrisoned  by  the  Cohort 
JElia  Classica.  Its  remains  are  still  visible  near  the  village  of  Boulness,  on  a 
rocky  promontory,  on  the  verge  of  Solway  Frith,  thirteen  miles  west  of  Carlisle.  Its 
ramparts  and  fosse  may  be  traced.  It  is  not  to  be  doubted  but  the  church,  and  what 
other  stone  buildings  are  in  the  village,  have  been  raised  out  of  its  ruins.  •  Camden 
supposes  that  the  W  all  began  a  mile  beyond  Boulness,  from  the  foundations  which 
appear  at  low  water ;  but  Uorsley  was  of  opinion,  that  it  has  been  the  foundation  of 
one  of  the  small  forts,  which  were  placed  along  the  shore  of  the  Frith,  that  led  him 
into  this  mistake.  When  the  tide  is  out,  the  river  is  fordable  here.  Bishop  Gibson 
says  there  have  frequently  been  found  here  Roman  coins  and  inscriptions,  and  that 
there  was  lately  dug  up  a  small  bronze  figure  of  Mercury  or  Victory.  There  was  at 
Appleby  an  inscription,  supposed  to  have  been  copied  frcHn  one  found  here ;  but  its 
history  is  altogether  dubious.  The  principal  antiquitiea  of  this  place,  besides  several 
coins,  are  the  above-named  figure  of  Mercury  m  Victory,  and  an  altar  found  in, a  field 
lOM  on  the  south-east  side  of  the  station,  and  at  {present  buHt  up 

PRo  S ALVTE       in  the  walls  of  a  bam.     It  is  about  fifteen  inches  high,  and 

has  the  annexed  inscripticm  in  rude,  but  very  legible  letters^ 
It  may  be  translated  thus — ^  To  Jupiter,  best  and  greatest, 
for  the  safety  (or  health),  of  our  august  emperors  GUulus  and 
Volusianus,  Sulpidus  Secundianus,  tribune  of  the  cohort^ 
erected  this. 


DD  NN  GALLI 
Et  VOLVSIANI 
AVGG.SVLPICIVS 
SECVNDIAN 
VS  TRIB  COh 


POSVJT. 

The  line  of  the  grand  mOitary  barrier  has,  it  is  evident,  abounded  with  curious 
monuments  of  antiquity.  The  Roman  soldiers  who  occupied  the  different  staticou 
were  anxious  to  perpetuate  their  names,  and  to  compliment  their  masters  by  inscrip- 
tions. But  a  great  number  of  these  ancient  memonals  have  been  destroyed,  applied 
to  vile  purposes,  or  removed  by  the  curious  antiquary.  Many  were  carried  off  by  Sir 
Robert  Cotton ;  and  Mr.  Warburton  was  inde£^t%able  in  collecting  the  most  inta* 
resting  stones  and  inscriptions.  The  coUeetion  of  the  latter  gentleman  at  Hexham 
was  presented  by  Dr.  Blunter  to  the  library  at  Durham.    The  most  valuable  relics  of 

« 

*  "  As  for  Hadrian's  vallum^  I  haye  said  before  that  the  tract  of  it  is  entirely  lost :  mid  yet  I  am  of  opimon 
that  it  has  gone  beyond  Drumburgh,  and  down  to  the  Solvay  Frith  ;  and  that  this  may  have  been  dne  rau 
son  why  Sevens'  Wall  (i,  e.  the  lSt<me  Barrier),  has  fbrmed  such  an  angle  in  iU  wty  to  Boulness*— *Horj%^ 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


193 


ttnliauity  belonging  to^Northumberiand  are  in  general  much  scattered,  or  sreatly  in- 
jurea ;  and  it  is  deeply  to  be  regretted  that  such  an  useful  institution  as  me  Society 
4^  Antiquaries  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne^  was  not  sooner  formed.  A  rich  harvest,  how- 
ever, remains  in  these  northern  counties,  to  reward  the  industry,  intelligence,  and 
^irit  of  this  promising  establishment. 

A  dear  idea  of  the  number,  situation,  and  distance  from  one  another,  of  these  sta- 
tions, may  be  formed  from  the  following  synopsis : — 


» 


1 

o 

0 
0 
0 

1 

0 
0 

1 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

1 


4 


3 
1 
6 

9 

5 

3 

5 

2 

4 

3 

3l 

7 

3 

0 
0 
1 


57 


"8 

I 


20 


0 

4 

1 

2 

2 

8 

0 

9 

1 

6 

0 

4 

0 

5 

0 

2 

0 

5 

0 

3 

0 

3 

0 

7 

1 

4 

3 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

2 

4 

81 


A   SYNOPSIS 


OF 


THE  STATIONS  OF  THE  WALL, 

With  the  Number  of  Castelbi,  and  the  Distances 
between  each  of  them. 


FROM 

Segedunum 
Pons  .£lii 
Condercum 

Vindobala 

Hunnum 

Cilumum 

Procolitia 

Borcovicus 

Vindolana 

^sica 

Magna 

Amooglana 
Petriani 

Aballaba 
Congavata 
Axeiodunum 
Gabrosentum 


TO 

Pons  JElii  (Newcastle) 
Condercum  (BenweU) 
Vindobala  (Rutchester) 
Hunnum  (Halton  Chesters) 
Cilumum  (  Walmck  Chesters) 
Procolitia  (Carrawhrugh) 
Borcovicus  (House-steads) 
Vindolana  (Little  Chesters) 
^sica    (Great  Chesters) 
Magna  (Caer-Voran) 
Amooglana  (Burdo^ald) 
Petriana  (Camheckfort) 
Aballaba  (Scaleby  Castle) 
Congavata  (Stanwicks) 
Axeiodunum  (Brugh) 
Gabrosentum  (Drumburgh) 
Tiumocelum  (Boulness) 


't-^ 


3 

2 

6 

7 
5 
3 
4 
1 
3 
2 

2 
6 
2 
5 
3 
4 

t 


68 


3 
0 
6 
0 
1 
1 
5 
3 
6 
1 
6 
2 
6 
1 
3 
0 
4 


s 


1* 

9 

5 

7 

8 

3i 

8 

4 

6i 

0 

6 

6 

9 
4 

9 
1 


The  four  stations.  Little  Chest^^  Caervoran,  Cambeckfort,  and  Watch  Cross, 
have  been  noticed  as  standing  at  some  distance  south  of  the  military  barriers.  These 
castrametations  are  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by  Agrioola,  and  to  have  been  ae> 
cepted  and  occupied  as  stations  to  the  military  works  that  were  sulwequently  formed*. 

*  The  splendid  vestiges  of  die  Romans  in  Britain  evince  their  unrivalled  skill,  industry,  and  disdpUne. 
Their  veterans  were  not  less  dexterous  in  handling  the  spade,  the  mattock,  and  th«  trowel,  than  in  handling 
their  atrns  when  they  took  the  field.    They  fou^t  and  laboured  with  equal  skill  and  vif«u^    A  departur* 

VOL.  I.— (9)  8  C 


194  GE]«EMJLi  Df»C»l?TiaN  OF 

T)«l»fitr^g  9/9^  ]fi&y  vmfPK^  wa9  loou  m  ixap^netn^  faamer  tq  the  Romm 
temtqrie^.  Qonst^tine,  it  s^eeois,  ww  Uie  first  tWt  liieglected  the  fron^er*  ''  For/' 
an  oki,  Ifijisppfiim'^  says,  '^  the  I^oi»«;)  empire  heisg  hy  the  c^e  of  Biodesiw  well  forti^ 
$jsd  in  liU  ii^  fronti^.  with  citie%  castles,  and  towu^  9fxd  all  the  forpes  Quartered  w 
them,  it.  was  impossible  for  the  barbarians  to  pass  theip,  soldiers  bf^ingr^ady  to  oppose 
thfain  every  where.  These  g^sons  C<mstantixi^  suj^ressed,  and  placed  the  greatest 
part  of  the  troops,  which  he  removed  fro^l  the  frontier,  in  towns  that  wanted  no  gar^ 
risoiis ;  leavinff  the  frontiers  to  be  harassed  by  the  barbarians,  without  defence,  bur- 
dening, with  tne  plague  of  soldiers,  towns  that  ware  quiet  and  orderly,  by  which 
many  are  depopulated,  and  the  soldiery  themselves  enervated  by  theatrical  amuse- 
ments and  pleasure.  In  ^hort,  to  say  the  whole  in  one  word,  he  laid  the  foundation 
and  seeds  of  the  present  decay  of  the  state/' 

Sir  John  Clerk,  writing  to  R.  Gale,  Esq.  on  this  subject,  remarks  as  follows : — 
''  Aftdr.  aU,  I  c^not  but  ta^  notice  of  two  things  with  regard  to  this  Wall,  that  have 
given  me  great  matter  of  speculation.  The  first  is,  why  it  was  made  at  all,  for  it 
could  never  be  a  proper  defence,  and  perhaps,  at  Boulness  less  than  any  other  place, 
since  our  barbarian  forefathers,  on  the  north  side,  could  pass  over  at  low  water,  or,  if 
the  sea  was  then  higher  or  deeper  than  it  is  now,  could  make  their  attacks  from  the 
north-east  side  by  land.  The  s^ond  is,  why  the  Scots  historians,  vain  enough  by 
nature,  have  not  taken  more  pains  to  describe  this  Wall^  a  peiriPormance  whioi  did 
their  ancestors  more  honour  tnan  aU  the  trifling  stories  put  together,  which  they  have 
transmitted  to  us.  'Tis  true  the  !^mans  walled  out  humioiity  from  them ;  but  'tis 
as  certain  they  thought  the  Caledonians  a  very  formidable  people,  when  they,  at  so 
much  labour  and  cost,  built  this  wall,  as  before  they  had  madp  a  vallum  between  Forth 
and  Clydef." 

Few  vestiges  of  the  domestic  structures  and  public  buildings  of  the  Romans  in 
Northumberland  have  been  found.  Some  remains  of  bat^^s,  temples,  or  porticoes^ 
have  been  noticed ;  but  the  wear  of  time,  and  the  conquering  battle-axe  and  nrebrand, 
have  annihilated  the  rich  fragments  of  many  Roman  cities.  This  active  and  ingeni- 
ous people  inhabited  the  country  so  lon^,  were  so  numerous,  and  so  dearous  to  dis- 
play their  superiority  in  the  elegancies  m  life,  that,  no  doubt,  many  splendid  edifices 
were  raised  here  by  their  hands.  Tacitus  informs  us,  that  Agricola,  anxious  to  com- 
municate Roman  customs  to  the  Britons,  instructed  and  assisted  them  '*  in  the  build- 
ing of  houses,  temples,  cour^,  and  market-places.    By  praising  the  dfligent,  and 

from  this  wite  policy  bj  the  modem  nations  of  Europe,  is  much  to  be  regretted.  At  present  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  men  pass  their  time  in  idleness,  or  are  employed  only  in  works  of  destruction.  Even  all  the 
variety  of  modem  tactics  do  not  require  the  continual  and  uninterrupted  attention  of  soldiers.  Tneir  em« 
ployment  in  public  works  would  neither  injure  the  service,  nor  depress  their  military  ardour. 

*  Zosimus*  b.  S. 

t  A  more  detailed  account  of  this  celebrated  barrier  may  be  found  in  Cough's  edition  of  Camden's  Britan* 
nia ;  Warburton's  Map ;  and  Hondey's  Britannia  Romana.  Some  curious  particulars  are  also  contained  in 
Wallis'  History  of  Northumberland;  Brand's  History  of  Newcastle ;  Hutton's  Roman  Wall ;  Art  Northum- 
berland and  Cumberland  in  Beauties  of  England ;  and  the  Archaeologia  ^liana. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  19S 

xvptoafihinff  the  iadcdmt,  he  exc^bed  so  great  «n  emulation  among  the  Britonir,  that, 
after  thev  had  erected  all  those  neeeBsary  edifikses  in  their  towns^  they  proceeded  to 
build  otners  merely  for  oroam^it  and  pleasure;  as  porticoes,  galleries,  baths,  ban^ 
quetting-houses,  &c." 

The  gresit  abundance  in  which  Roman  coins  have  been  found  in  Northumberland 
naturally  excites  some  curiosity.  The  Roman  soldiers  were  certainly  in  the  halnt  of 
secreting  money ;  but  after  the  departure  of  this  warlike  people,  their  coins  continued 
as  a  meoium  of  trafSc.  A  considerable  proportion  of  the  money  found  may  therefore 
be  refmod  to  the  fruitless  i^^ecaution,  or  the  terrified  negligence  g£  the  Britons,  when 
the  NiH^them  tribes,  or  the  Saxon  invaders  burst  in  upon  uiehr  country,  and  reduced 
their  towns  to  ashes. 

The  Romians  pleased  themselves  with  perpetuating  their  names,  or  compKmenting 
their  great  men,  by  monumental  inscriptions.  Many  of  these  vatifte  idtars  hare  been 
found  in  Northumberland.  The  other  occasions  on  which  they  erected  inscriptioiys^ 
were  upon  finishing  some  considerable  work,  or  in  honour  of  thrar  principal  gods  or 
the  local  deities.  The  introduction  of  Christianity  led  to  the  destruction  of  statues 
designed  for  heathen  worship,  so  that  the  principal  remains  of  Roman  sculpture  con- 
^t  of  figures  cut  in  basso  and  alto  rdievo. 

Roman  Roads.--— The  roads,  or  streets,  (as  Bede  calls  them),  formed  by  the  Ro« 
mans  in  the  several  provinces  of  their  empire,  have  been  always  considered  as  remark- 
able proofs  of  the  greatness,  the  ingenuity,  and  persevering  industry,  of  that  extraor- 
dinary people.*  They  must  have  been  formed  with  immense  labour  and  great 
expence.  Many  parts  of  these  roads,  in  the  northern  district,  retain  their  lines,  in  ^ 
wonderful  manner,  to  this  day.  "  They  lie,'*  observes  Camden,  "  sometimes  through 
drained  fens,  and  sometimes  through  low  vallies,  and  at  others  paths  are  made  ror 
them  through  the  vast  woods  and  forests  with  which  this  country  was  at  that  time 
over^read."    AH  these  roads  run  invariably  in  a  straight  line,  except  where  they 

*  It  has  been  fbund  nnposflible  to  aaaettain  the  enct  p^ods  at  which  tiiese  roads  were  constructed.  Dr. 
Stttkeley  conjectures  that  the  Ertnyn  (or,  as  he  terms  it.  Mermen)  street  was  that  first  fonned ;  and  he  attri- 
butes the  woik  to  the  reign  of  Nero ;  while  Horsl^' contends  that  moet  of  the  military  ways  in  Britain  were 
probably  laid  down  by  Agrioola.  The  subject  is  thus  noticed  by  Mr.  Whitaker :  '*  In  a  country  like  this, 
wher«  forests  must  have  risen,  and  morasses  have  spread,  betwixt  station  and  station,  roads  must  have  been 
nearly  as  necessary  as  stations,  and  were  certainly,  therefore,  nearly  cotemporary  with  them.  As  the  Romans 
prosecuted  their  conquests  within  the  island,  they  must,  also,  have  multiplied  their  stations,  and  extended 
dieir  roads.  The  stations  were  certainly  prior,  and  the  roads  were  the  channds  of  communication  between 
them.  Many  of  the  stations  must  have  necessarily  commenced  during  the  very  conquest  of  the  country ;  and 
all  of  them  at  the  conclusion  of  it.  And  die  roads  could  not  have  been  constructed  till  the  first  or  second 
summer  after  both."  But,  when  we  remember  the  great  number  of  British  towns  which  were  retained  by 
the  Romans,  and  fortified  by  them  as  stations  or  settlements,  we  may  readily  believe  that  many  roads,  now 
supposed  to  be  purely  Roman,  were  really  formed  in  the  line  of  previous  British  trackways.  Watling-street, 
Icknield-street,  or  road  of  the  Incenl,  Ryknield«street  of  the  Upper  Inceni,  Ermyn-street,  Ikeman-street,  and 
the  Foss-way,  are  all  presumed  to  have  been  formed  in  the  course  of  British  trackways.— //tn.  Cur.  p.  6. 
Brit.  Rom.  p.  387.  Hut.  ofManch.  wd.i.p.  118.  Introd.  to  Beauties  ofEng.  <|c.  p.  l63.  Huickins.  Ccmm. 
en  the  Uin.  of  Rich,  of  Ciren, 


196  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

meet  with  some  local  impediment,  such  as  a  steep  mountain  or  deep  ravine,  or  wheito 
they  bend  out  of  their  course  to  approach  or  leave  a  station.  They  consisted  of  an 
artificial  fabric,  composed  of  chalk,  pebble-stones,  or  gravel,  raised  to  a  considerable 
height  above  the  level  of  the  natural  soil.  These  materials  were  often  brought  from 
a  distant  tract  of  country ;  and  instances  are  yet  to  be  seen  of  the  road  rising  to  the 
height  of  ten  feet,  in  a  crest  of  emphatical  but  deserted  grandeur.  The  occurrence  of 
so  great  an  elevation  was  most  frequent  on  heaths,  covered  with  low,  stubbed  (or 
polhird)  oaks ;  and  it  is  conjectured  by  an  ingenious  writer  on  the  subject  of  Roman 
antiquities,  that  such  was  the  aspect  of  a  great  part  of  Britain,  in  the  early  periods  of 
the  Roman  ascendancy ;  and  that  the  forest  trees,  in  the  vicinity  of  a  gr^t  military 
thoroughfare,  were  thus  decapitated  to  facilitate  the  security  of  an  army  on  its  march, 
by  revealing  the  recesses  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  precluding  the  danger  of 
surprise.  Mile-stones,  bearing  the  emperor's  name  who  made  or  repaired  the  roads, 
were  set  up  at  exact  distances. 

From  the  immense  forests  that  covered  Northumberland  in  ancient  times,  the  for- 
mation of  the  Roman  roads  must  have  been  a  work  of  peculiar  labour  and  difficulty. 
Where  the  ground  was  dry  and  firm,  but  little  labour  was  requisite  to  form  the  roads,' 
and  in  these  places  the  courses  of  them  are  most  difficult  to  be  traced ;  but  in  woods, 
or  in  boggy  grounds,  they  are  carefuUy  paved  with  great  stones,  set  edgeways,  veiy 
dose  to  one  another ;  and  in  those  situations  their  remkins  frequently  preserve  their 
original  grandeur. 

Of  these  roads  four  have  been  rendered  celebrated  by  the  laws  of  Edward  the 
Confessor ;  but  Mr.  Reynolds,  in  his  Introduction  to  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus, 
thinks  that  we  have  good  authority  to  reckon  at  least  six  great  roads ;  while  other 
judicious  antiquaries  think  even  this  au^ented  number  is  much  too  limited.  Of 
these  the  WatJing-street*  must  be  considered  as  the  first  and  most  remarkable.  It 
commences,  as  some  suppose,  at  Dover,  and,  passing  south,  crosses  the  Dei^vent  at 
Ebchester,  and  enters  Northumberland.  At  a  small  distance  from  Binchester,  in  the 
county  of  Durham,  a  military  way  has  been  observed  to  leave  the  Watiin^-street, 
supposed  to  go  to  Chester  in  the  Street,  between  Durham  and  Newcastle,  but  it  could 
be  traced  no  farther  than  Brancepeth  Park.  But  again  visible  remains  of  such  a  way 
have  been  found  on  Gateshead  Fell.  There  are  antiquaries  who  consider  this  road  as 
the  commencement  of  the  Ryknield-street.  The  Watling-street  having  passed  the 
Derwent  at  Ebchester,  it  proceeds  direct  tbwards  Corbridge.  About  half  a  mile 
north  from  Wittonstall  is  a  remarkable  turn  in  it,  and  at  this  turn  an  exploratory  fort 
of  about  thirty  yards  square.  The  situation  of  it  is  high,  and  the  prospect  very  large^ 
Near  it  is  a  tumulus,  which  was  found  to  consist  mostly  of  stones,  covered  with  green 
turf.    The  river  Tyne  was  passed  by  a  Roman  bridge  at  the  anqieut  town  near  Cor-* 

*  The  etjrmology  of  tlie  name  of  this  road  has  sufficiently  exercised  the  ingenuity  of  our  learned  antiqua** 
ries.  Perhaps  the  most  natural  solution  is  that  given  in  the  Gentleman's  Magazine,  February,  179^9  where 
the  writer  derives  it  from  tlie  ancient  British  words  Gwaith,  work,  and  Len,  Legion ;  fh>m  which  Gwaith- 
len,  i.  e.  Legion- work,  came,  he  supposes,  the  modem  Watling.  Dr.  Jamieson  quotes  Douglas  and  Henry-* 
sone  to  shew,  that  Watling  Strete  denotes  the  milky  way.  "  It  has  received,"  says  he,  "this  designation  in. 
the  same  manner  as  it  was  called  by  the  Romans  Via  Lactea,  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  broad  street^ 
or  causeway*  being  as  it  wer9  paved  with  stars," 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


197 


Ixridge.  Of  this  bridge  aome  vert^es  may  yet  be  seen.  Between  tiiis  and  the  Wall 
the  road  is  stiU  visible. .  At  the  W  all  another  division  oommenoes^  where  one  line 
takes  its  course  northward,  passes  east  of  Kirk-Heaton»  crosses  the  Wansbeck,  and 
proceeding  by  the  west  of  Hartbum  churchy  proceeds  ina  straight  course  between  Ne* 
therwitton  and  Witton-Shields  to  Brinkbum  Abbey.  From  Lon^firamlington  its 
tract  may  be  plainly  discerned  alonff  Riiaflide  Moor,  after  which,  passm^  Glanton,  the 
road  proceeds  direct  to  Horton  Casue,  and  running  west  of  Lowick  and  Ancroft  duu 
pels,  crosses  the  Tweed  near  Commills.  The  other  line  branches  off  towards  Swin- 
burne Castle,  and  passing  by  Corsenside^  takes  its  course  by  Riechester  and  Chew- 
Green,  into  Scotland*. 

Gibbon  has  observed, ''  that  the  motive  of  Uie  Romans  in  makkig  thair  roads,  was 
neither  the  ben^t  of  tibidr  provinces,  which  these  conquerors  sdways^despised^  nor  the 
convenience  of  commercial  mtercourse,  of  which  they  never  knew  how  to  estimate 
the  value,  but  merely  to  facilitate  the  march  of  th^  troops."  The  convenience  of 
their  military  operations  was  undoubtedly  a  considerable,  but  certainly  not  the  sole 
and  only  motive,  for  constructing  their  road^f. 

Several  altars,  inscriptions,  unwj  nskt  other  remains  of  the  Romans ;  the  works  of 
the  Britons,  Saxons,  and  Danes ;  and  the  ruins  of  later  erections,  such  as  castles,  ab- 
beys, priories,  nunneries,  &cc.  will  be  noticed  in  the  description  of  the  places  where 
they  are  foimd. 


*  There  is  reafion  to  inuigine  thatthe  Britons  hsid  ftgenand  road  whidi  nun  round  the  whole  coast  of  the 
island.  Vestiges  of  such  a  continued  road  have  been  observed  in  various  parts  of  England,  particularly  along 
the  coast  through  Yorkshire,  Durham,  and  NovtbttBiberlaa&— Cow*,  on  J/t».  tfRich.  ed.  1S09,  p.vLetseq. 

t  It  caonpt  be  recollected,  without  surprise,  that  the  real  length  of  the  Roman  mile  has  not  been  ascer* 
tained,  by  any  of  the  numerous  learned  persons  who  have  bestowed  attention  on  that  subject  So  utter  it 
the  wreck  of  that  empire,  which  once  measured  aU  Burope  witH  its  own  foot  and  pace,  and'  dividad'  kipgdmm 
by  the  arbitrary  merits  on  its  standard  rutef 


?«L.  I, 


»D 


.  I 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION 


COUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


CHARACTER,  MANNERS.  AND  CUSTOMS, 

OF  THE 

NORTHUMBRIANS. 

IEVERAL  circutnstances  of  a  peculiar  and  influential  deKtiption  have 
imparted  extraordinary  energy  and  great  diversity  to  the  cfaaiBcter  of  the 
inmibitants  of  this  county.  TOuring  sixteen  hundred  yean*  it  waa  the 
k  biuy  theatre  of  battles,  of  depredations,  and  of  continued  agitations.  From 
I  the  days  of  Agricola  it  has  been  swxxsdvely  possessed  by  the  Romans, 
'  the  Britons,  the  Saxons,  the  rtanes,  and  the  Normans,  whose  varioas  opi- 
nions and  customs  may  still  be  traced  amongst  their  descendants,  though 
now  amalgamated  into  one  people.    This  is  a  subject  equally  curious  and  important, 
and  must  always  mrest  the  attention  of  those  who  think  that  "  the  proper  study  of 
mankind  is  man." 

The  Northumbrians  may  be  divided  into  seven  classes, — ^the  Fanners — the  Inhabi- 
tants of  the  moimtainous  districts — the  Lead-miners — the  Pitmen — the  Keelmen — 
and  the  Seamen.  As  to  those  in  the  higher  ranks  of  life,  their  liberal  education,  their 
halnts  of  travelling,  and  their  familiarity  with  the  ^hionahle  world,  generally  re^ 
moves  local  habits,  and  imparts  an  artifioal  sameness  to  ^eir  manners. 

The  FtmnerM. — FtHineriy  the  stupid  obstinacy  and  selfish  disposition  of  farmss 
were  proverbial  amonff  the  commercial  part  of  the  community ;  but,  in  Northumb»- 
land,  their  character  has  experi^iced  a  favourable  change,  and  is  now  so  eminently 

*  Fnxa  tbe  oanqnert  of  AgriooU  in  the  ytmt  84,  to  the  complete  Union  of  the  two  kingdonu  in  the  reign 
of  queen  Anne,  NorthumberUnd  wu  contimuOy  exposed  to  turtmleDce  and  sptdiAtiotu 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP  NORTHUMBEBLAND.  19^ 

respectable,  that  even  the  sons  of  noblemen  deem  it  no  disparagement  to  become  their 
pupils.  This  alteration  has  been  principally  effected  from  the  practice  of  renting  long 
/eases,  unfettered  with  injudicious  restrictions.  This  aroused  the  spirit  of  enterprize, 
and  many  of  our  farmers  have  acquired  a  considerable  capital.  Hence  their  circum- 
stances entitle  them  to  a  good  education,  exnand  their  views,  and  give  them  a  spirit 
of  independence  and  enterprize.  Their  minos  are  open  to  conviction — they  are  ready 
to  try  new  experiments,  and  adopt  every  beneficial  improvement  that  can  be  learnt 
in  other  districts.  For  this  purpose  many  of  them  have  trttversed  the  most  distant 
parts  of  the  kingdom,  to  obtain  agricultural  knowledge,  and  have  transplanted  every 
practice  they  thought  superior  to  those  they  were  acquainted  with,  or  that  could  be 
advantageously  pursued  in  their  situation. 

The  children  of  the  Northumbrian  farmers  are  generally  taught  all  the  polite  and 
fashionable  branches  of  education ;  hence,  in  jpropriety  of  manners,  elegance  of  dress, 
Itnd  good  living,  the  farmers  are  little  inferior  to  the  opulent  inhabitants  of  towns. 
And  whatever  may  be  lU'ged  by  ill-natured  growlers,  no  reasonable  man  will  deny 
that  they  deserve,  in  proportion  to  their  capital,  skiD,  and  industry,  every  enjoyment 
of  life,  equally  with  the  merchant  or  manufacturer.  If  the  farmers  use  more  wheat 
than  formerly  in  tea-cakes,  pies,  and  puddings,  it  must  also  be  recollected,  that  mo« 
dem  improvements  have  raised  four  or  five  times  more  wheat  than  in  days  of  yore. 
But,  indeed,  all  the  conveniences  and  comforts  of  life,  when  first  adopted,  have  been 
pointed  out  by  ignorance  or  iQ-nature,  as  so  many  instances  of  the  ruinous  progress 
of  luxury  and  remiement.  "  The  present  generation,*'  exclaim  the  old  people,  **  are  a 
puny  race  of  beings,  unworthy  of  tneir  ancestors."  But  it  remains  to  be  proved,  that 
the  superior  comrorts  of  modem  living  are  inimical  to  hedth.  A  savage  or  a  rude 
people  are,  indeed,  generally  robust  and  well-formed ;  this  is  not,  however,  because 
theu'  mode  of  living  is  favourable  to  human  life,  but  because  the  strongest  only  can 
survive  it. 

It  must,  however,  be  observed^  that  this  character  applies  more  particularly  to  the 
great  farmers  of  the  northern  part  of  the  county ;  though  their  mode  of  life,  as  wdl 
as  their  enlightened  practice  in  rural  afiairs,  is  rapidly  extoiding  through  the  other 
parts,  espedally  where  drcumstahces  are  favourable  to  improvement.* 

* 

*  During  the  kte  war,  in  consequenci^  of  the  encrmous  issues  of  paper-money,  combined  with  other  cir- 
cumstances, the  profits  of  farming  rose  to  a  great  height,  aiid  induced,  in  many  cases,  extravagant  habits  of 
living.  The  approach  to  a  metallic  currency,  by  lessening  the  circulating  medium,  has  greatly  decreased  the 
value  of  agricultural  produce ;  and  as  taxes,  rents,  and  other  outgoings  of  the  fiurmer,  have  not  been  decreased 
in  proportion,  much  em|)arras8ment  and  distress  have  been  experienced.  The  Northumberland  farmers  have 
not,  however,  suffered  so  severely  as  those  in  the  south  of  England.  Besides  having,  hi  general,  great  reduo* 
tions  made  in  their  rents,  they  have  an  excellent  market  fi>r  their  produce,  and  the  poor-rates  continue  mode- 
rate, which  may  be  chiefly  attributed  to  the  circumstance  of  above  L.60,000  per  week  being  received  in  this 
^strict  for  coals  alone  (see  page  175).  Add  to  this  that  our  farmers,  from  having  geneiraUy  retained  habits  of 
frugality  in  times  of  prosperity,  can  more  easily  bear  the  present  revolutaoo.  This  cfaan^  will  ultimatdy 
render  farming  speculations  less  productive,  but  more  certain ;  and>  while  it  diecks  vanity  and  extravagance, 
will.better  the  condition  of  the  labourer,  and  restore  the  manly  frankness  and  real  happiness  of  rural  h£e, 
which  were  rapidly  decreasing. 


* 


90»  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

TJke  Inhabitants  of  ^  mouMtaimfm&  dktrkti  diffcsr  from  those  who  oceupy  the  ciil« 
tirated  part  of  the  ocainty,  in  the  coanmeas  and  simplicity  of  their  manners.  Em- 
ployed principally  in  tending  their  bleating  flocks  upon  tne  hills,  and  having  litUe 
mtereourse  with  the  worlds  uey  strondiy  retain  the  vulvar  opinions  and  local  prgu-* 
dices  of  their  forefathers.  They  are  afao  distingmahed,  like  most  of  the  indKabitanta 
of  a  wiM  mid  thinly-pec^led  country,  for  their  hospitality  to  strangers,  and  also  for 
that  intrusive  curiosity,  which  to  others  appears  so  extremely  impdrtinenL  The 
objects  of  their  observation  and  reflection  being  few  and  trivial,  their  attention  is 
usually  directed  to  the  occurrences  in  a  neighboiuring  fsmily,  or  the  petty  transactions 
of  the  viHage.  Those  pedlars^  tinkers,  and  pipers,  who  have  the  art  of  exciting  their 
wonder  or  their  mirth,  are  always  welcome  .visitors :  they  contribute  to  vary  the  duU 
scene  of  their  lives,  and  to  recal,  l^  their  local  songs  and  tunes,  the  bloody  and  ad- 
mired deeds  of  then-  ancestors. 

7%^  Agricultural  Labourers  of  Northumberland  are  a  hardy  race  of  men,  capable, 
of  bearing  considerable  fatigue,  and  retain  all  that  resolution  in  enterprize  which  dis-. 
tinguished  their  ancestors.  They  are,  generally,  of  a  tolerable  height,  well  formed, 
and  remarkably  stout ;  so  much  so,  that  it  has  be«ib  frequently  remarked,  that  the 
Northumberland  militia  covered  more  ground,  in  proportion  to  its  number,  than  any 
o«ier  reriment  in  his  majesty's  service. 

The  Northumberland  cottagers  are  peeuliaarly  deanly  in  their  habits,  and  theii! 
dress  is  always  plain  and  deoent  The  shoes,  <»r  clogs^  which  they  wear  on  working 
days,  have  wooden  bottoms,  atid  are  found  extremely  conducive  to  health,  as  the 
wood  resists  dampness,  and  keeps  the  feet  in  their  natural  heat^  by  which  the  labourer 
can  remain  with  impunity  a  whole  day  in  dayey  and  wet  ground.  They  are  usuaUy 
better  informed  than  those  of  the  same  dass  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  kingdom. 
F^ffents  consider  it  as  an  indispensible  duty  to  have  their  ehudrai  taught  the  rudi- 
ments of  education,  and  to  neglect  it  incurs  a  considerable  portion  of  disgrace.  As 
to  skin  and  activity  in  agricultural  operations,  they  ase  ineiHiq^iBrably  superioc  to  the 
people  that  inhabit  the  fertile  ooonties  in  tibe  south. 

It  has  been  justly  remarked,  that  in  several  of  tiie  pxovinoea  of  France,  and  some 
northern  parts  of  Europe,  where  there  \b  a  scarcity  of  fu^  the  ^fecta  of  the  cold 
compel  whole  families  in  winter  to  retire  to  their  beds :  there  they  remain  in  a  state 
of  torpor,  unable  to  labour,  and  consume,  in  a  few  days,  all  their  little  earnings.  In 
this  highly-favoured  district,  the  peasant,  placed  beside  an  enlivemi^  fire,  repairs  his 
implements  of  husbandry,  whilie  his  wife  is  emplojred  in  pTeparing  a  warni  supper ; 
and  his  daughters,  from  eight  years  old  and  upwards,  in  spinning.  Knitting,  sewing, 
&c.:  or  fifequently  the  happy  group,  accompanied  •  by  a  few  neighbours,  devote  an 
bow;  to  play,  while  the  tempest  blows  by  unheeded. 

The  common  diet,  in-  most  part^  of  Northumberland,  is  homely,  but  wholesome 
£ure«  In.  the  northern  and  wecitem  districts,  bread  is  made  of  barley,,  or  barley  mixed 
with  grey  pei^se  or  bc^.  Frevipu^.to  griixdinff,  they  are  mixed  in  the  proportion  of 
two  pairts  barley,  and;  on^^  of  peai^  or  beans,  j^ter  being  ground,  the  meal  is  sifted 
through  a  sieve,  made  o£  woQd»  to  take  out  the  roiu^h  husks  and  coarse  bran ;  it  is 
then  kneaded  with  water^  sMide  mto  thin  unleavened  cakes,  and  immediately  baked 
on  a  girdle.    In  these  parts  oatmeal  also  constitutes  a  principal  artide  of  food  with 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  201 


the  peasantry,  not  as  bread,  but  in  crwodies  and  hoMty-fmdding  (provinciaUy  meaUcailJ 
for  breflJkfast,  and  sometimes  for  supper,  eaten  Mrith  tnitter,  or  more  commonly  with 
milk :  the  latta*  is  an  agreeable,  nutritive,  and  healthy  food.  In  the  southern  parts 
of  the  county,  a  few  years  ago,  the  most  general  bread  of  the  labouring  poor  was  rye, 
which,  being  leavened  until  it  gained  a  considerable  degree  of  acidity,  was  made  into 
loaves  and  baked  in  a  large  bnck  oven,  or  made  into  thin  cakes,  one  and  a  half  or 
two  inches  thick,  called  <'  sour-cakes,"  and  baked  on  the  girdle.  This  bread  was  very 
firm  and  soUd,  dark  coloured,  and  retidned  its  moisture  longer  than  any  other  kina. 
Wheat-flour,  coarsely  dressed,  is  now  substituted  for  rye.  Others  use  bread  made  of 
maslin  (wheat  and  rye  mixed),  which  many  tbdnk  superior  to  wheat  alone. 

The  dinner  of  farmers'  servants  consists  mostly  of  milk,  ciurds,  and  whey,  eaten 
cold  with  bread,  to  which  butter,  and  skinuned  milk  cheese,  are  often  added,  as  also 
a  dish  of  hot  potatoes.  On  pot-^lajfSf  of  which  Sunday  is  always  one,  flesh,  broth, 
dumplings,  and  a  profusion  of  vegetables,  form  a  kind  of  family  feast  Potatoes, 
eaten  wiUi  a  little  salt  and  miUc,  are  now  the  common  supper  of  the  labouring  people ; 
but  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  this  root,  so  pregnant  with  physical,  moral,  ana  politick 
evils,  will  never  become  the  principal  food  of  Northumbnans.  As  an  auxiliary  part 
of  food,  it  is  harmless  and  usefuL 

Tea  now  almost  universally  forms  the  breakfast  of  mechamcs  in  the  country  villages, 
and  even  of  the  wives  of  farmers'  servants :  but  this  change  of  diet  proceeds  rauier 
from  the  difficulty  of  procuring  milk  than  from  choice.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  this 
expensive,  washy,  and  sickly  diet,  will  soon  be  substituted  by  one  more  solid  mi 
healthy.  The  pernicious  practice  of  dram-drinking  is  almost  totally  abandoned ;  but 
our  viUagers  are  fond  of  malt  liquor,  wluch,  in  genend,  is  very  bad  and  unwhplesome. 
Were  the  husbandman  encouraged  to  brew  his  own  ale,  a  great  improvement  would 
follow  in  the  circumstances  and  happiness  of  his  family.  In  the  western  parts  of  the 
county,  and  in  those  district  that  are  remote  from  market  towns,  or  large  villages, 
the  r^rular  course  of  industry  is  but  seldom  interrupted  by  acts  of  intemperance. 

In  many  irarticulars  the  maimers  and  customs  of  the  Northumbrian  peasantry,  and 
their  immediate  neighbours,  differ  fro^  those  which  distinguish  the  inhabitants  of 
the  southern  counties.    A  few  of  the  most  remarkable  deserve  notice. 

At  the  hirings  for  fanners'  servants,  which  take  place  half,yearly.  th<»e  who  offer 
their  services  stand  in  a  body  in  the  marketplace,  each  sex  forming  a  distinct  oom»- 
pany ;  and  in  <»der  to  distinguish  themselves,  the  young  men  fix  a  green  branch  in 
their  hats,  and  the  maids  hoM  a  small  green  twig  or  flower  in  their  hands.  It  is  fre- 
quently amusing  to  hear  the  plouirh«-boys,  who  are  dependent  on  their  own  resources, 
questing  the  fanners  respktii^  the  duties  expected,  and  determinedly  opposing 
all  attempts  at  imdervaluing  their  labours. 

The  market  being  over,  the  fiddlers  take  their  seats  dose  to  the  window  in  public 
houses ;  the  sirls  begin  to  file  off  and  gently  pace  the  streets,  with  a  view  of  gaining 
admirers;  while  the  young  men,  wim  equsdlly  innoc^it  designs,  follow  after,  and 
having  eyed  the  lasses,  pick  up  each  a  sweetheart,  whom  they  conduct  to  a  d^cing- 
room,  and  treat  with  punch,  ale,  or  hot  ale  mixed  with  brandy.  Thus  they  spen^ 
the  afternoon,  and  part  of  their  half-year's  wages,  in  dancing  and  drinking.  Even 
the  most  moderate  make  it  a  rule  to  spend,  on  this  OQcwion,  what  they  have  received 

VOL.  I.  «  E 


«02  GENEBAL  DESCHIPTSON  OF 


u$  arleg,  wbSA  umiallj  tmouAts  to  two  shilliiigs  end  diiqpenfie  or  five  Ai]liii0t  At 
tliis  time,  ako,  the  honest  and  warmly  affectionate  maid  endeavours  to  fall  in  the  %¥ay 
of  the  lad  with  whom  she  had  formerly  toiled  and  pdayed«  but  wlu3in  envioua  fortone 
had  rmoved  to  a  distant  port  When  the  old  partneris  meet»  the  hearty  squeeze  and 
shake  of  the  hand,  the  kmd  glance,  the  slap  on  die  sbouldar,  and  the  numerous  in- 
terrogatories that  follow,  evince  the  pleasures  of  the  meeting. 

The  lively  and  accurate  description  whidi  that  interestii^  writer,  Mr.  Housman, 
has  given  of  the  customs  observed  at  the  Cumberland  fairs,  is,  in  general,  applicable 
to  those  of  Northumberland.  '^  At  fairs,"  says  he,  ^^  as  well  as  hirings,  it  is  cust<Hnary 
for  all  the  young  people  in  the  neighbourhood  to  assemble  and  dance  at  the  inns  and 
ale-houses.  The  fair  ones  continue  walking  badcwar ds  and  forwards  in  the  streets, 
till  an  admirer  begs  the  favc»ir  of  thdr  company  to  a  dandng  room,  there  to  take  a 
danoe,  a  glass»  and  a  cake :  this  request  is  of  course  complied  with ;  and,  after  half  an 
hour's  dancing,  they  return  to  the  street  agmn,  and  each  party  seeks  a  new  adventure. 
This  conduct,  though  it  may  seem  rather  light,  particularly  among  the  females,  has 
nothing  of  criminahty  about  it :  it  is  a  custom  to  which  th^  have  been  long  habi* 
tuated,  BXkd  its  effects  are  tantamount  to  those  of  baBs,  assemblies,  &c.  aiarang  the 
higher  orders  of  life.  In  their  dances,  which  are  ji^  and  reels,  they  attend  to  exex^ 
tion  and  agility  more  than  ease  and  giaoe :  minuets  and  oounfacy  danees  constitute  no 
part  of  the  amus^nents  of  those  rural  assanUies,  Indeed,  these  dancing  parties 
often  exhibit  scenes  very  indelicate  and  unpleasant  to  the  peaceable  qpectafeor.  No 
order  is  observed,  and  the  anxiety  for  dancmg  is  great ;  one  couple  can  only  dance 
their  ji^  at  the  same  time,  and  perhaps  half  a  dozen  couple  stand  on  the  floor  waiting 
for  their  turns ;  the  young  mai,  busied  in  pa3nng  adoresses  to  their  partners,  and 
probably  half  intoxicated,  forget  who  ought  to  dance  next;  a  dispute  arises;  the 
nddler  offers  his  mediation  in  vain ;  nay,  the  interference  of  an  angel  would  have  been 
spumed  at :  blood  and  fury !  it  must  be  decided  by  a  fight,  which  immediately  en- 
sues. During  these  combats  the  whole  assraibly  is  in  an  uproar ;  the  wedcer  part  of 
the  company,  as  weU  as  the  minstrels,  get  upon  the  benches,  or  stand  up  in  comers, 
while  the  rest  support  the  combatants,  and  deal  blows  pretty  freely  amonff  each 
other ;  even  the  ladies  will  not  unfrequently  fight  like  Amazons  in  support  of  their 
brokers,  sweethearts,  or  friends.  At  length  the  fight  is  over,  and  ^ate  UkMidjjr-nased 
pugilists,  and  imfeathered  nymphs,  retire  to  wash,  and  re-adjust  theAr  tattered  gar- 
ments :-  fresh  company  comes  in — all  is  again  quiet,  and  the  dance  goes  on  as. heme; 
while  the  former  guests  disperse  into  (]^erent  public-houses,  txM  the  rencounter, 
which  generally  commences  without  any  previous  maUoe,  is  rarely  again  remem* 
bered/'  We,  however,  have  the  satisfaction  to  observe,  that  tiiese  frays  are  not  near 
so  frequent  in  this  coimty  as  formerly,  and  that  a  forward  combatant  has,  in  a  great 
measure,  ceased  to  command  the  admiration  or  approval  of  our  rustic  maids,  to  ac 
quire  which  was  always  the  latent  cause  of  those  quarrels. 

At  these  country  dances  practices  prevail  which  would  shock  the  delicacy  of  more 
refined  society.  '  The  youth  usually  sits  with  his  arm  around  his  girl's  waist ;  and  if 
the  room  be  much  crowded,  the  young  women  not  unfrequentlv  sit  upon  the  knees 
of  their  partners.  Towards  the  close  of  the  entertainment,  the  nddler,  at  the  end  of 
every  dwce»  gives  a  shrill  skreak  with  his  instrument,  which  is  understood  to  say. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  MS 

''kiss  htrf  the  eagtr  youth  €)iey#  ^  weU4ciiown  Agtal,  and  flying  into  the  arms  of 
his  seemingly  reluctant  partner,  salutes  her  with  a  hearty  and  audible  kiss.  Were  a 
youth  to  neglect  the  perf<xitiance  of  this  established  ceremony,  his  mistress  would 
ix^Qsider  herself  aJB  affiroated,  and  he  would  be  generally  omdemned  for  his  want  of 
0aUantiy. 

The  Northumbrians  are»  indeed,  distinguished  for  their  fondness  of  dancing.  A 
number  of  itinerant  musicians,  fike  some  of  the  ancient  minstrels,*  are  continually 
fxaversing  the  county.  At  the  time  of  sheep-shearing,  the  joyous  shepherd  presents 
his  musical  visitant  with  a  quantity  of  wool ;  at  seed-time  the  farmer  presents  him 
with  a  bowl  of  com ;  and  at  all  times  the  piper  or  fiddler  is  a  welcome  ^est,  and 
receives  the  most  hospitable  aitertainment.  When  the  fiddle  strikes  up  m  a  farm- 
house, the  bamman  drops  his  fiml ;  the  weary  hind  lays  aside  his  dogs ;  the  neigh- 
bouring cottagers  hasten  to  the  scene  of  merriment,  and  all  ioin  in  the  sportive  dancei 
When  the  wandering  musician  renokains  during  the  night,  he  closes  his  performances 
with  the  recitation  of  some  tragical  ballad,  or  jpopular  story,  which,  though  told  a 
thousand  times,  is  still  attended  to  with  undiminished  satisfaction. 

Our  N<»rthumbrian  rustics  frequ^itly  contrive  to  render  their  amusements  subser- 
vient to  the  purposes  of  benevolence.  On  the  approach  of  winter,  a  few  young  men 
unite  their  influence,  and  convene  a  merry-meetings  in  the  name  and  for  the  benefit  of 
some  poor  honest  neighbour  in  distress.f  The  summons  is  gladly  obeyed ;  each  pays 
a  shilhng,  which  frequently  forms  a  considerable  sum,  as  many  pay  who  do  not,  or 
cannot  attend.  The  ale  and  bread  and  cheese  is  paid  for  by  a  small  contribution 
among  the  young  men  of  the  company. 

In  the  rude  and  turbulent  days  of  our  forefathers,  many  practices  were  wisdy  in- 
stituted, for  the  purpose  of 'gathering  neighbours  together,  and  promoting  good  hu- 
mour, friendship,  and  benevolence.  Several  traits  of  this  ancient  hospitSity  still 
remain  in  this  county.  The  viUageis  usually  observe  a  certain  day,  on  which  they 
hold  their  village  y^i»/.  Every  family  invite  their  own  friends  and  acquaintance, 
who  live  in  the  neighbouring  parts,  and  entertain  them  with  good  cheer.  Music, 
dancing,  cards,  and  drinking,  are  the  amusements  of  the  day.    If  any  stranger  hsqp- 

*  The  Bjq^sodoi  of  andent  Gf^foe,  the  Banl9  of  the  Briton^  the  Harpers  of  the  Saxons^  the  Scalds  of  the 
Nprthmeiij  a|i4  the  Minatvels  of  the  Nonoana,  were  all  itinerant  p^omers^  who  combined  the  arts  qf  poetiy, 
musi^^  ainging^  and  gesticiilati^i.  They  exerted  all  the  methods  that  fimcy,  frolic,  and  licentiousness  had 
invited  to  interest  the  fieelings*  and  stimulate  the  liberality,  of  the  different  classes  of  sode^.  Their  topics 
beiqg  the  most  popular  of  the  day,  those  who  visited  this  county  wpuld  sing  of  battle,  war,  and  rapine,  in* 
ter^persed  with  l^^ends,  love-songs,  and  bacchanalian  aim.  As  the  general  mind  improved,  the  minstrel 
became  less  valued  and  more  degenerate,  until  at  last  he  was  proscribed  as  a  useless  and  conrupting  vagabond. 
But  the  Borderers  loved  the.  ancient  songs  and  music  of  their  forefathers  too  much  to  turn  the  wandering 
minstrel  from  their  docMrs ;  and  though  the  poet  be  now  separated  from  the  musician,  the  itinerant  piper  and 
fiddler  is  still  a  welcome  guest,  and  preserves  some  small  remains  of  the  talents  and  occupation  of  the  ancient 
minstrels. — Turner* s  Hist  qf  Eng,  vol.  u  p.  ^9  et  seq.  RiUon's  Diss,  prefixed  to  Met.  Rom.  vol.  u  Strutt^s 
Sports  and  Past.  p.  15S. 

t  This  is  a  benevoleot  custom'  which,  £rom  the  name,  seems  to  be  derived  fiom  the  Saxons.  It  is  called 
Bid'Ole,  or  Bidder^ale.    In  some  counties  it  i8  called  Helpnde, 


204  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

pens  to  pass  this  scene  of  mirth  and  jollity,  he  is  sure  to  be  entertained  with  the 
greatest  kindness  and  hospitality. 

In  the  courtships  of  tne  peasantiy  there  is  something  singular,  ^irhich,  although 
certainly  imprudent,  is  not  attended  with  those  criming  effects  which,  it  might  be 
apprehended,  would  be  the  natural  consequence.  The  practice  is  exactly  similar  to 
that  retained  by  the  Cumbrians,  which  is  described  by  the  writer  before  quoted. 

Connections  are  often  formed  early  in  life,  which  the  numerous  dancing  parties, 
not  only  at  fairs,  but  at  most  of  the  village  ale-houses  several  times  a  year,  and  the 
connivance  of  parents,  afford  easy  opportunities  of  doing.  At  these  places  of  rural 
amusement,  it  is  usual  for  almost  every  lad  to  select  his  lass.  **  After  the  acquaint- 
ance has  commenced,  the  youth  visits  his  sweetheart  at  her  own  home.  These  visits 
are  most  commonly  made  on  the  Saturday  evenings,  that  the  next  day's  work  may 
Mot  be  incommoded.*  After  the  family  are  gone  to  bed,  the  fire  darkened,  and  the 
candle  extinguished,  he  cautiously  enters  the  house.  In  this  murky  situation  they 
remain  for  a  few  hours,  adjusting  their  love  concerns,  and  conversing  on  the  common 
topics  of  the  day,  till  the  increasing  cold  of  a  winter's  night,  or  the  light  of  a  sum- 
mer's morning,  announces  the  time  of  separation.  With  these  prooeMings  the  pa- 
rents or  masters  of  the  lovers  are  well  enough  acquainted,  but  generally  connive  at 
them :  they  have  no  notion  of  denjring  those  under  their  care  that  indulgence  which 
they  themselves  and  their  ancestors  have  practised  with  impunity  before  them." 

When  the  day  of  marria^  is  fixed,  the  firiends  and  neighbours  of  the  bride  and 
bridegroom  are  presented  with  white  gloves,  and  invited  to  the  wedding.  The  com- 
pany  naving  assembled,  the  hride-^ake  is  broken,  and  they  breakfast  together.  If  the 
church  is  at  a  distance,  the  wedcUngers  mostly  ride,  and  at  the  alehouse  near  the  church 
(which  is  never  wanting,  for 

<<  Wherever  the  Lord  erects  a  house  of  prayer, 
*<  The  Devil  always  builds  a  chapel  there,^) 

they  cheer  their  spirits  with  a  hearty  glass  before  the  performance  of  the  ceremony. 
An  ancient  but  indecent  custom  formerly  prevailed  at  the  performing  of  the  marriage 
service ;  the  voung  men  strove  who  could  first  unloose,  or  rather  pludc  off,  the  bride's 
garters,  whicn  were  borne  in  triumph  round  the  church.  This  is  probably  a  fragmait 
of  the  ancient  ceremony  of  loosening  the  virgin  zone  or  girdle.  It  is  still  usual  for 
the  young  men  present  to  salute  the  bride  immediately  after  the  ceremony.  A  party 
attend  at  the  church-gates,  to  demand  of  the  bridegroom  money  for  vl  footJudl. 
Having  hastily  swallowed  some  more  liquor,  the  whole  company  remount  their  nags, 
and  furiously  scamper  to  the  bride's  house,  contending  who  shall  first  bring  the  good 
news,  and  "  win  the  kaUr  i.  e.  a  smokmg  prize  of  spice  broth ;  while  the  villagers  are 
3tanding  on  the  neighbouring  hills  to  see  this  singular  race,  which  is.  often  attended 
with  some  serious  or  ludicrous  accidents,    A  knot  of  white  ribbon,  called  bride- 

*  It  was  an  ancient  practice  to  cease  from  all  servile  labour  at  three  o'clock  on  Saturday  afternoon,  and  to 
attend  evening  prayers  preparatory  for  the  ensuing  Sabbath.  This  vigil  offered  a  convenient  c^portonity  far 
courtmg,  which  custon)  continued  after  religious  observances  had  ceased. 


n6rthumberland.  aoa 

favours,  is  still  worn  by  the  attendants  at  our  weddings.  It  was  anciently  used  by 
,  the  Danes,  as  it  symbol  of  love  and  faith.  The  ladies  wear  white  top-knots,  emblem- 
atical <^  the  ties  of  duty  and  affection  between  the  bride  and  her  spouse. 

After  dinner  the  music  strikes  up,  and  dancing  beguiles  the  nours  till  the  time 
arrives  of  performing  the  last  ceremony,,  of  putting  the  wedded  couple  to  bed,  and 
throwing  tie  stocking.  The  cuahum-^lanee  is  thought  the  proper  termination  of  the 
entertainment. 

At  the  Iving-in,  the  lady  in  the  straw  is  visited  by  all  her  acquaintances,  who  are 
entertained  with  bread  and  cheese,  and  a  dram.  Slices  of  the  first  cut  of  the  groan^ 
ing^jcheese^  are  also  given  to  young  people,  to  be  laid  under  their  pillows,  that  they 
may  dream  of  their  sweethearts.  There  is  a  vulgar  tradition  of  the  streets  of  New- 
castle bein^  formerly  haunted  by  a  guest  (gJioat)^  which  appeared  in  shape  of  a  noas- 
tiff-dog,  with  large  saucer  eyes.  It  generally  accompanied  the  midwife  when  going 
at  night  to  discharge  her  office.  When  they  parted  at  the  door,  it  uttered  a  loua 
laugh  when  the  result  was  to  terminate  fstvourably ;  but,  when  otherwise,  it  departed 
with  the  most  horrid  bowlings ! 

It  would  be  thought  very  unlucky  to  send  away  a  child  the  first  time  its  nurse 
has  brought  it  on  a  visit  without  givmff  it  an  egg,  salt,  or  bread.  When  a  cluld  is 
carried  out  to  be  christ^fied,  the  midwiie,  who  heads  the  procession,  presents  the  first 
person  she  meets  with  large  slices  of  bread  and  cheese.  Formerly,  the  person  who 
received  this  homely  present  gave  the  child,  in  return,  three  things,  wishing  it,  at  the 
same  time,  health  and  beauty.  Thd  christenings  are  often  attended  vnUti  great  ex<» 
pence,  but  not  so  much  so  at  present  as  formerly.  It  is  customary,  at  these  timeSj 
for  the  spcmsors  to  make  small  presents  to  the  midwife ;  or,  if  a  doctor  has  been  em- 
f>loyed,  to  the  mother  of  the  cmld.  Sometimes,  when  the  parents  are  poor,  a  collec* 
tion  is  made  by  the  guests,  sufficient  to  defray  the  expences  of  the  feast. 

When  a  person  is  dying,  the  neighbours  are  called  in  during  the  expiring  moments, 
and  continue  to  assist  the  family  in  laying  out,  or  streaking  the  corpse,  which  is  placed 
on  a  bed,  hung  round  and  oov»ed  with  the  best  linen  the  house  affords.  It  is  also 
customary  to  set  a  pewter  plate,  containing  a  little  salt,  upon  the  breast  of  the  de-* 
ceased,  and  also  a  candle  in  aon^e  particular  place.  Salt  was  an  emblem  of  immortar 
lity  among  most  nations,  and  a  candle  was  an  Egyptian  hieroglyphic  f6r  life,  and  was 
probably  meant  to  express  the  ardent  desire  of  having  the  life  of  the  deceased  pro- 
longed. The  looking-glas3  is  covered  and  the  fire  extinguished  where  a  corpse  is 
kept ;  and  it  is  reckoned  so  ominous  for  a  do^  or  cat  to  pass  over  it,  that  the  poor 
animal  is  killed  without  mercy ^.  The  coffin  is  left  unscrewed  till  the  time  of  burial, 
which  is  the  remains  of  d  custom  of  the  Anglo-Saxons,  who  left  the  Jiead  and  shoul-^ 
ders  of  the  corpse  uncovered,  that  relations,  &c*  plight  take  a  last  view  of  their 
deceased  friend. 

Between  the  death  and  interment,  which  is  from  two  to  three  days,,  the  neighbours 
watch  by  the  corpse  alternately.  This  is  called  the  lake^wahcy  from  the  Anglo-Saxon 
Uc^  a  corpse,  and  wacce^  a  vigil.  The  old  people  attend  in  the  day,  and  uie  young 
people  at  ni^ht.  The  abuse  of  this  vigil  is  of  old  standing,  and  is  among  the  cata- 
logue of  crimes  that  were  anciently  cursed  with  heU^  hooky  and  candS.  Brand 
observes,  that  if  those  who  abuse  such  solemn  meetings  think  at  all,  they  think  with 

.     VOL,  1,  8  F  . 


*06  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

e|>icurean  licentiousness^  that  since  life  is  so  uncertain,  no  opportunity  should  be  ne^- 
lected  of  transmitting  it,  and  that  the  loss  by  the  death  ot  one  relation,  should  be 
made  up  as  soon  as  possible  by  the  Urth  of  another.  Such  a  consequence,  however, 
seldoiH  follows  a  Nc»thumberland  lake-wake ;  and  th^  ancient  custom  of  prajring  and 
iAnging  psalms  on  this  occasion,  is  now  genetalljr  adopted  by  religious  people. 

The  friends  of  the  deceased,  as  well  as  the  neighbours,  are  generally  invited  to  th^ 
funeral  by  bidders  dressed  in  black  silk  scarfs.*  The  company  are  served  with  bread 
and  dieose,  ale,  drams,  pipes,  and  tobacco.  The  ancient  custx>m  of  the  nearest  relations 
eanying  the  corpse  out  of  the  house,  and  into  the  church,  is  retained  in  many  parts ; 
as  is  sd^  the  ceremony  used  in  all  funeral  processions  among  the  ancient  Christians, 
of  singing  psalms  in  exultation  for  the  conquest  of  the  deceased  over  heil,  sin,  and 
death.  After  the  burial,  a  select  party  of  friends  and  neighbours  are  again  invited  to 
supper.    Funeral  sermons  are  now  very  common  amongst  Dissenters. 

In  this  county,  the  coffin  is  always  covered  with  a  t)lack  velvet  pall,  edged  with 
white  linen  or  silk,  for  a  bachelc^  or  maid,  or  for  a  woman  that  dies  in  cmld-bed ; 
the  hat-bands  are  also  tied  with  white  ribbon,  and  white  gloves  are  worn.  In  other 
cases,  black  is  whoUy  used.  A  young  virgin,  or  woman  ^o  dies  in  child^bed,  is  ge- 
nel^y  attended  by  young  women  dres^  in  white,  two  of  whom  walk  befow  the 
corpse,  while  six  or  eight  of  the  most  respected  of  tiiie  acquaintances  of  tiiie  deceased, 
with  white  silk  hoods,  support  the  pall.  The  coffin  is  carried  on  men's  shoulders, 
who  are  nearly  covered  by  the  pall ;  but  if  the  distance  to  the  diurch  be  great,  a 
hearse  is  used.  Black  silk  or'satin  scarfs,  crape  hat-bands,  and  gloves,  vte  given  when 
the  circumstances  of  the  party  concerned  admit  of  the  expenoe. 

Lead  Miners. — ^There  ajre  some  circumstances  in  the  character  of  the  lead-miners 
which  distinguish  them  from  every  other  class  of  workmen.  These  peculiarities  ne-- 
cessarily  arise  from  the  nature  of  their  employment,  which  is  extremely  hazardous 
and  uncertain.  The  expence  of  sinking  the  shafts,  and  cutting  adits,  fies  with  the 
adventurer,  who  furnishes  also  the  machinerv  for  the  works.  The  miners  then  agree 
to  drive  the  vein  and  raise  the  ore  (finding  their  own  tools,  candles,  gunpowder,  &c.), 
on  the  condition  of  their  receiving  a  certain  proportion  of  the  profits  of  the  ore  pro- 
duced, be  it  little  or  much.  This  agreement  is  termed  a  bargain^  and  generally  lasts 
three  months,  at  the  end  of  which  the  quantity  of  ore  raised  is  determined  and  ac- 
counted for.  Each  miner  receives  the  loan  of  forty  shillings  once  a  month,  fend  the 
balance  of  his  wages  once  a  year.     This  is  called  the  Pays. 

'  This  circumstance  of  the  uncertainty  of  their  gains  has  a  marked  eifect  upon  their 
character.  The  activity  which  hope  inspires  keeps  their  spirits  in  an  agreeable  agita- 
tion, renders  their  minds  lively  ana  acute,  and  prevents  that  dulness  which  generally 
characterizes  other  labourers.  When  success  crowns  their  speculations,  joy  is  the 
result ;  but  if  it  terminates  otherwise,  the  expectation  of  a  more  fortunate  take  exhi- 
bits its  never-failing  consolations,  and  the  charm  of  prospective  good  fortune  quickly 

•  The  following  form  of  inviting  to  burial,  by  the  public  bellman  of  the  town,  is  still,  «■  was  very  lately, 
in  use  at  Hexham  :  '^  Blessed  are  the  dead  which  die  in  the  Lord.  Joseph  Dixon  is  departed^  son  of  Chris- 
topher Dixon,  was.  Their  company  is  desired  to-morrow  at  five  o'clock,  and  at  six  he  is  to  be  bu-ri-ed. 
For  him  and  for  all  faithful  people  give  God  most  hearty  thanks."*— Brancf^  Pop,  Antiq.  ed.  1SI5,  vol,  it.  p.  159- 


NORTHUMBEBX.AND.  Sfff 

ilenishes  all  the  gloom  of  jMiesent  disappohitinent.  Prevented  from  feeling  the  pres- 
8m*e  of  want  by  a  monthly  loan,  they  are  relieved  from  a  care  which  deadens  all  the 
energies  of  a  common  kuboiarer  under  misfortune;  and  they  proceed  to  a  second 
experiment  with  unabated  ardour  and  undiminished  spirits.  As  their  profits  are 
regulated  by  proportions,  and  determined  by  calculations,  their  interest  naturally 
leads  l^em  to  become  conversant  with  numbers,  and  there  are  few  of  them  that  are 
not  acquainted  with  the  lowar  branches  of  arithmetic.  The  machinery  employed  in 
the  mines  directs  th^  attention  to  the  mechanical  powers ;  while  the  disposition  of 
the  strata,  and  the  dressing  of  the  ore,  afford  them  lessons  in  the  sciences  of  geology 
and  chemistry.  They  are  distinguished  for  correctness  of  judgment,  particuhurly  on 
the  subject  of  their  own  work ;  a  faculty  of  peculiar  importance  to  them  in  appreci- 
ating their  labour,  when  it  is  to  be  performed  at  settled  wages.  Habituated  to  recol* 
lect  and  compare  the  results  of  fcnrmer  experience,  when  a  miner  is  taken  to  a  spot  to 
sink  a  shaft,  ne  knows  at  a  glance  at  what  rate  per  fathom  he  ought  to  be  paid  for 
his  labour. 

The  miners  are  as  much  distinguished  for  an  unbending  spirit  of  independence  as 
for  intellectual  activity  and  acquirements.  They  work  in  partnerships  of  four,  six» 
or  eight,  and  divide  their  wages  equally  amongst  them.  iJncontrdled  by  the  man- 
dates of  a  master  or  overseer,  they  rely  solely  upon  their  own  judgment  and  experi- 
ence, and  often  lighten  their  labour  by  amusing  or  instructive  conversation.  ]Nor  is 
it  uncommon  to  hear  them  dispute  on  metaphysical  and  philological  subjects,  or  on 
the  various  doctrines  of  pdyitical  economy.  Their  mental  improvement  is  also  greatly 
promoted  by  book-clubs.  A  few  join  in  contributing  two-paice  or  three-pence  per 
week  for  the  purchase  of  books,  wnich  are  lent  out  to  subscribers ;  and  when  the  dub 
breaks  up,  the  books  are  divided  by  lot. 

The  l€»d-miners  are  in  general  a  strong,  healthy,  and  active  body  of  men.  Their 
food  is  plain  and  simple,  and  very  similar  to  that  used  by  the  husbandmen  in  North- 
umbeiiand.  Their  bread  is  made  mostly  of  rye  fermented  with  leaven.  Oatmeal  is 
used  for  crowdy  or  hasty-pudding.  A  potatoe  pie,  consisting  of  one  part  of  mutton 
and  two  of  potatoes,  is  a  favoiuite  dish.  Their  chief  beveraces  are  water  and  tea. 
Though  they  sometimes  indulge  in  the  exhilirating  cup,  drunkenness  is  by  no  means 
a  practice  with  them.  They  Uve  in  cottages,  which  they  rent,  or  of  which  they  are 
not  unfre^uently  the  proprietors.  Peat  moss  is  tJneir  chief  fuel.  Their  moral  liabits 
in  domestic  life  are  respectable,  and  they  are  particularly  distinguished  for  the  virtues 
<^  charity  and  hospitality. 

The  miners  excel  in  running,  wrestling,  leaping,  shooting  at  a  mark,  and  indeed 
are  unequalled  in  aU  the  athletic  sports.  At  all  the  neighbouring  fairs  and  hoppings^ 
they  almost  invariably  bear  away  the  trophies : — iSae  gloves,  belt,  hat,  or  wot-bag. 

*  Hopping  is  derived  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  hoppan,  which  signi^es^  to  feap  or  dance.  Dancings  are  here 
vulgarly  called  hops.  The  word  in  its  original  meaning  is  preserved  in  grass-hopper.  This  is  the  common 
name  now  given  in  Northumberland  to  Parish- wakes,  or  feasts  of  the  Dedication  of  the  Church.  Anciently, 
&ir8  were  held  in  the  church-yards  on  such  occasions,  which  was  accompanied  by  feasting  and  all  sorts  of 
•rani  sports  and  exercises,  whidi  aometimes  continued  two  or  three  day8.-^<wm^.f  Aniiq.  c.  jxr.  Brands 
Pop,  AuU  voLup.  4S8.    Huk^km*  HiH*  of  Norlhum.  voL  u.  p.  26. 


808  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Like  the  old  Borderers,  they  ore  ever  ready  to  join  in  a  fray,  in  which  they  never 
forget  tfa«  manly  laws  of  ''  English  fair  play."  But  hunting  and  shooting  are  their 
favourite  diversions.  Accompanied  by  mext  well-trained  dogs,  they  frequently  sport 
with  undiminished  eagerness  upon  theur  nigged  mountains  and  dreary  moors  for  tnree 
or  four  days  together.  As  they  generally  undertake  these  desparate  expeditions  in 
large  parties,  they  defy  the  power  and  contemn  the  threats  of  the  legal  conservators 
of  the  game.    Miners  are  often  to  be  met  with,  deeply  embued  with  moral  and  reli- 

fious  sentiment,  who  yet  cannot  be  convinced,  that  the  birds  which  fly  over  their 
eads  can  be  the  property  of  any  one  except  of  the  man  who  shoots  or  catches  than. 
He  would  indeed  be  a  wonderful  reasoner  who  could  convince  this  people  of  the  sin 
of  poaching,  and  the  justice,  wisdom,  and  policy  of  our  game  laws.  This  genand  and 
deep  conviction  of  their  right  to  kill  game,  prevents  uiem  frmn  indulging  in  those 
shy,  solitary,  taciturn  habits  which  usually  chaiactaize  poachers.* 

The  miners  are  generally  early  risers,  and  seldom  work  more  than  six  hours  a  day, 
which  is  called  a  sni/i.  This  leaves  them  much  leisure  time  for  mental  improv^nent 
or  for  sport  and  amusement.  They  adhere  stricdy  to  the  ancient  mode  of  keeping 
the  Christmas,  Easter,  Whitsuntide,  and  other  holidays.  During  the  lon^  and  severe 
winters  experienced  in  the  mining  district,  the  youth  of  both  sexes  associate  in  large 
parties,  around  the  hearth  of  some  neighbouring  cottage,  and  b^uile  the  evening 
with  wonderful  tales  of  ghosts,  witches,  or  fairies.  Sometimes  the  aged  miners  form 
a  snug  circle,  and  rehearse  their  youthful  feats  in  battie  or  hunting ;  while  the  boys 
listen  with  silent  admiration.  Occasionally,  cards,  a  dance,  or  some  old  domefitic 
game,  jrive  spirit  or  variety  to  their  amusements. 

At  mnerals  it  is  usual  to  csary  out  the  dead  with  sin^g  of  psalms  and  hymns  of 
trimnpfa.  The  company  consists  of  both  sexes ;  and  if  the  chief  mourner  be  a  daugh- 
ter or  mother,  she  is  supported  by  two  female  friends,  and  followed  by  a  mournful 
ffroup  of  weeping  females.  Before  the  funeral  service  is  read,  the  relations  of  the 
deceased  let  down  the  corpse  into  the  grave ;  the  chief  mourner  standing  at  the  head, 
and  the  rest  of  the  relations  arranged  according  to  their  propinquity.  This  is  an  an* 
dent  custom,  and  is  still  observed  in  Scotland. 

Piimen — ^The  pitmen  are  at  first  put  to  work  when  seven  or  eight  years  old ;  and 
being  confined,  for  the  most  part,  to  their  own  society,  they  acquire. certain  distinguish- 
ing mdrks  of  character  by  which  they  are  easily  known  from  tne  rest  of  their  country- 
men ;  and  the  language,  deportment,  and  general  behavioiur  o^the  different  indivi- 
duals are  so  nearly  alike,  that  by  an  acquaintance  with  one  of  them  a  tolerably  .correct 
.judgment  may  be  formed  of  the  whole  body.f 

*  Several  poachers  in  this  district  were  ktely  transported  to  Botany  Bay;  and  in  order  to  terminate  the 
practice^  a  party  of  the  Eighteenth  Hussars  were  employed  to  assist  in  apprehending  certain  offenders.  After 
many  harassing  attempts  to  effect  this  object^  some  gentlemen  interposed,  ''to  which  both  pursuers  and  pur* 
sued  were  equally  ready  to  attend*  A  petition  was  consequently  drawn  up,  addressed  to  colonel  Beaumont 
and  Charles  John  Brandling,  esq,  M.  P*  in  which  the  poachers  promised  to  give  up  their  guns  and  dogs,  and 
to  trespass  no  more  upon  the  manors  of  those  gentlemen-— which  they  condescended  to  accept" 

t  The  number  of  pitmen  employed  in  this  coal  district  is,  in  page  l6l,  stated  at  11,5S7 ;  but  by  an  eniK 
meration  made  a  few  years  ago^  the  total  number  employed  in  ooal  mines  was  auted  to  amount  to  about  14«60Q, 


VORTHUMBESLAND.  Md 

In  their  dress  they  oflai  afieefc  to  be  gaudy,  and  are  fond  of  dotbes  of  flaring  co^ 
lours :  their  heyday  waistcoats  (called  1:^  them  nosey  jackets)  are  frequently  of  very 
curious  patterns,  displaying  flowers  of  various  ayes ;  and  their  stodangs  mostly  of 
Uue,  piii:ple,  or  mixed  colours.  But  of  late  years  their  taste  in  dress  has  become 
more  sober  and  chaste.  Those  who  have  been  long  employed  in  pits  where  the  pas* 
sages,  or  head-ways^  are  very  low  and  confined,  contract  a  partial  ^^ormify  of  shape : 
in  such  subjects  the  breast  is  more  than  usually  prominent,  and  the  body  rather  twist* 
ed ;  others  are  crooked  in  the  legs. 

Colliers  commonly  work  eight  houni  at  a  time ;  this  is  called  a  single  shift ;  but  in 
cases  of  emergency,  when  there  is  a  quick  sale  for  the  coals,  or  a  scardty  of  hands, 
they  work  double  shifts.  They  seldom  taste  victuals  during  work  hours ;  but,  on 
their  return  home,  as  soon  as  their  bodies  are  washed  dean,  they  make  a  hearty  meal, 
and  soon  afterwards  retire  to  rest,  enjoying  that  sound  and  refreshing  sleep  which  par- 
ticularly falls  to  the  lot  of  those  who  labour  hard  and  think  little.  If  the  appointed 
hour  to  rise  be  at  midnight,  or  early  in  the  morning,  they  generally  have  notice  from 
the  caUeTy  whose  business  it  is  to  visit  the  houses  of  all  the  individuals  intoided  to 
compose  die  company  for  the  next  shift.  The  'manner  of  expression  of  these  callers 
is  somewhat  remarkable :  One  of  them  comingto  the  door  of  one  of  his  pit-mates, 
waslieard  to  cry  with  a  loud  voice — ^  Robin  Winship!  aJiof  i  the  neam  &  Qod^  rise 
and  eame  to  your  wark  r 

There  are  commonly  as  many  houses  erected  near  eadi  colliery  as  sarve  the  whole 
of  the  workman,  and  each  one  is  allowed  a  small  plot  of  ground  for  the  nowth  of 
pot  herbs,  potatoes,  &c.    Their  cottages  are  kept  remarkably  dean  and  oraerly.    A 

good  bed,  a  doubfe  chest  of  mahogany  drawers,  an  eight  day  dock,  and  a  folio  fionily 
ible,  are  very  usual  articles  of  furniture.  But  however  the  house  may  be  furnished  or 
decorated,  the  walls  and  roof  are  kept  well  coloured,  the  floor  neatly  smided,  and  tht 
windows  dean  and  bright.  Th^  are  fond  of  good  living,  in  whidi  they  freely  in- 
dulge whenever  their  circumstances  can  afford  it  Pies,  dumplings,  and  puddmjn, 
with  the  best  of  beef  and  mutton,  dec.  are  their  ioommoti  fare.  They  have  a  great  luc* 
ing  for  kneaded  cakes  baked  on  the  girdle,  which  with  them  are  called  simghigjMU 
nies.    Potatoes  baked  in  the  oven  with  a  joint  of  meat  is  a  favourite  dish. 

The  colliers  receive  their  wages  fortnightly,  the  intervening  week  they  term  the 
haff-weeky  because  it  brings  them  no  raonej.  They  are  bound  from  year  to  year ;  at 
the  binding  they  receive  arles-money,  which  formerly  was  a  very  considerable  sum : 
a  man  having  two  or  three  lads  would  have  obtained  to  the  amount  of  twenty  or 
thirty  pounds ;  but  now  it  is  reduced  to  a  mere  trifle,  the  poor  miner  being  happy  jf 
his  services  be  not  rejected. 

As  the  colliers  form  a  distinct  body  of  men,  and  seldom  assodate  with  others,  they 
entertain  strong  feelings  of  attachment.  When  they  combine  or  stick  for  the  purpose 
of  raising  their  wages,  th^  are  said  to  spit  upon  a  stone  together,  by  way  of  cement- 
ing their  confederacy.  This  appears  to  be  a  very  old  custom,  the  origin  of  which  is 
lost  in  the  remoteness  of  time, 

Thdr  diversions^ and  pastimes  are  cock-iigbting,  bowling,  foot-racings  hand-ball, 
quoits,  and  cards,  and  sometimes,  in  places  where  they  dare  pursue  it,  nunting  and 
fowling.    It  is  tQ  be  regretted  that  the  game  acts  haiie  ahnost  aitirdy  deprivw  tb^ 

VOL.  L  S  G 


2M  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

oommon  people  ci  the  latter  fund  of  diversion,  without  answering  the  puifoses  of  the 
rich ;  for  the  farmers  and  others  catch  the  game  in  their  nets  whicn  they  dare  not 
venture  to  kill  with  the  gun. 

Cock-fighting  is  their  favourite  sport  at  the  Christmas  time.  Great  numbers  of 
them  assemble  at  the  public-houses  where  the  battles  are  to  be  fought,  and  enjoy  the 
unconquerable  spirit  displayed  by  these  animals.*  They  make  a  feast  of  the  cocks 
that  are  slain,  and  regale  themselves  with  plenteous  libations  of  strong  beer,  &c. ;  and 
it  very  frequently  happens,  that  their  harmony  and  good  fellowship  are  suddaily 
dianged  to  wrangling  and  fighting,  and  the  scene  is  closed  in  riot  and  confusion. 
But  fiieir  antipathies  seldom  last  long,  for  the  first  sober  meeting  the  parties  have, 
they  generally  again  make  good  friends. 

When  they  have  their  bowling  matches,  they  usually  repair  to  a  level  piece  of 
ground  on  a  moor  or  common.  A  certain  number  of  throws  is  agreed  upon,  and  the 
game  is  determined  by  the  party  who,  to  use  their  own  phrase,  ^'  measures  out  the 

freatest  length  of  ground."  Some  of  the  bowlers  can  throw  to  an  incredible  distance, 
[any  of  them  wiU  venture  the  full  amount  of  their  fortnight's  eaminj^  on  a  cock- 
fight or  a  bowling  match,  and  often  to  the  great  embanrassment  of  their  ramily  affidrs. 
To  the  public  feasts,  called  hoppings,  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  county,  great 
numbers  oi  the  coUiers  resort :  here  some  of  them  display  their  buffoonery  in  grinning 
for  a  parcel  of  tobacco,  which  is  commonly  either  himg  on  the  sign-post  of  a  public 
house,  or  suspended  at  the  end  of  a  stick  projected  &om  one  of  the  wmdows  for  that 
purpose.  The  competitors  exhibit  undemeaui,  with  their  eyes  fiixed  on  the  precious 
prize,  which  is  the  reward  of  him  who  assumes  the  most  firightful  countenance.  They 
also  at  these  places  shew  their  activity  in  playing  at  the  lumd-ball,  in  dancing,  and 
foot-radng;  and  he  who  outstrips  his  fellows  in  the  race  is  usually  presented  with  a 
coarse  woollen  hat. 

In'  the  families  of  colliers  there  are  frequent  intermarriages:  preparatory  to  their 
weddings,  great  plenty  of  meat  and  drink  is  provided  (often  more  than  theu*  circum*- 
stances  can  well  afford),  and  the  relatives  and  friends  of  the  bride  and  brid^p^oom  (in 
general  very  numerous)  are  invited  to  attend  the  celebration  of  the  nuptials. 

<*  The  blitheaome,  buxooi  country  maids, 
<*  With  knots  of  ribbands  at  thdir  heads, 

^  Cock-fighting  was  an  institation  partly  religious  and  partly  political  at  Athens,  and  was  continued  for 
the  purpose  of  improving  the  seeds  of  valour  in  the  minds  of  the  Athenian  youth.  The  Romans  adopted  the 
practice^  and  probably  introduced  it  into  Britain.  The  Rev.  J.  Brand  informs  us^  that  when  he  was  once 
performing  the  service  appropriated  for  the  visitation  of  the  sick  with  a  collier  (who  died  a  few  days  after), 
to  his  great  astonishment  lie  was  interrupted  by  the  crowing  of  a  game  cock,  hung  in  a  bag  over  his  head; 
to  this  exultation  an  immediate  answer  was  given  by  another  cock,  concealed  in  a  closet,  to  which  the  first 
replied,  and  instantly  the  last  rejoined.  He  never  met  with  an  incident  so  truly  of  the  tragi-comical  cast  as 
this,  and  could  not  proceed  in  the  execution  of  that  very  solemn  office,  tfll  one  of  his  disputants  was  removed. 
It  had  been,  it  should  seem,  industriously  hung  there  for  the  sake  of  company.  The  dying  man  had  thus  an 
opportunity  (^.casting,  at  an  object  he  had  dearly  loved  in  the  days  of  his  health  and  strength,  what  Mr. 
Grey  calls  "  a  longing,  lii^ring  look  behind."— JV91.  Aniiq.  voLLp.  482. 


211 

<<  And  pitmers  fiuU^riag  in  the  viiid, 

<«  That  fan  befoie  and  toes  behind, 

**  Come  there  from  each  adjacent  place, 

<*  Strength  in  their  limbs,  health  in  their  face, 

*^  To  do  their  honours  to  the  bride, 

*^  And  eat  and  drink  and  dance  beside ; 

*<  And  all  the  country  lads  around 

*<  That  get  their  living  under  ground 

"  Attend 

If  the  marriage  be  not  held  on  a  Sunday,  the  company  is  generally  attended  by 
musicians,  who  play  on  the  bagpipte  or  fiddle,  enlivening  them  with  their  music  on 
the  road  to  the  church,  and  on  their  return  home,  and  the  remainder  of  the  day  is 
spent  in  feasting  and  dancing,  and  all  the  tumultuous  joys  of  rude  festivity. 

When  the  ccmiers*  wives  he  in,  their  friends  and  neighbours  are  sent  for;  and  the 
usual  beverage  is  bread  and  cheese,  beer,  &c.  Their  customs  and  hospitality  at  these 
times  are  set  forth  in  an  old  song  called  "  The  Collier^s  Invitation,**  from  which  the 
following  lines  are  extracted :~ 

^*  At  home  weVe  a  cask  of  brown  ale  that  is  nappy, 

**  A  round  whacking  cheese,  and  some  good  Hollands  gin ; 

^  Then  come,  honest  pit-mates,  partake  and  be  happy 
"  With  the  rest  of  our  friends  now  when  Susy  Hes  in." 

The  Christening  is  honoured  with  the  company  of  relatives,  friends,  and  neighbours, 
who  always  form  a  goodly  party.  This  is  a  most  expensive  feast,  and  generally  re- 
quires much  after-saving  and  fhigality  to  discharge  the  debts  thereby  incurred. 

The  practice  of  excessive  drinkm^  prevails  mudi  among  them,  and  on  market-day9 
and  houdays  they  indulge  too  freely  in  the  cheering  cup.  On  Sundays,  the  pubuc 
houses  near  the  collieries  are  filled  with  the  pitmen,  where  they  sit  drinking  and 
smoking  the  live^lon^  day,  and  unprofitably  spending  a  considerable  part  of  the  hard* 
earned  fruits  of  their  industiT.  But  it  must  be  confessed,  that  these  convivial  parties, 
particularly  in  winter,  afford  the  only  amusement  that  is  permitted  to  hard-working 
men.  At  these  meetings  there  is  often  much  debate  respecting  their  comparative 
abilities  as  workmen ;  and  when  conviction  cannot  be  impressed  by  argument,  it  is 
customary  to  have  recourse  to  blows. 

The  early  age  at  which  boys  are  sent  to  work  in  the  pits,  the  nature  of  their  em- 
ployment, and  the  long  hours  they  are  doomed  to  labour,  are  all  extremely  unfavour- 
able to  mental  improvement  Their  sphere  of  observation  is  confined  within  narrow 
limits,  and  consequently  the  topics  of  their  conversation  are  few  and  trivial.  They 
are  excluded  from  observing  that  variety  of  objects  and  incidents  which  successively 
excite  and  gratify  curiosity,  give  expansion  to  the  mind,  and  animation  to  discourse. 
But  all  pitmen  do  not  remain  in  this  state  of  intellectual  sterility.  Many  overcome 
the  natural  disadvantages  ci  their  situation,  cultivate  a  taste  for  reading,  and  acquire 
a  considerable  fund  of  useful  knowledge.    The  moval  habits  of  such  men  are  not  less 


2ia  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

respectable,  in  general,  than  their  intellectual  ones.  They  are  dyil  and  respectful  in 
then:  manners,  and  sober  and  decent  in  their  conduct  The  best  inibrmcd  men  in 
every  colliery  are  always  looked  upon  with  ffreat  respect  by  the  ignorant  and  disor- 
derly, and  their  example  has  a  most  powerfaT  and  salutary  influence  upon  the  whole 
body  of  their  fellow  workmen.  The  persevering  industry  of  itinerant  preachers,  par- 
ticularly those  of  the  Methodist  connexion,  has  also  been  effectually  employed  in 
correcting  the  irregularities,  and  changing  the  manners,  which  formerly  characterized 
ourpitmen.* 

Keelmen. — ^The  keelmen  who  are  employed  on  the  river  Tyne  are  a  remarkably 
hardy,  robust,  and  laborious  class  of  men,  and  are  distinguished  for  their  great  mus- 
oilar  strength.  In  this  particular  they  are,  perhaps,  superior  to  any  other  tribe  of 
men  in  England.  Their  employment  requires  uncommon  exertions.  They  have  to 
contend,  in  their  strong,  clumsy  vessels,  with  the  perils  of  violent  gales,  dark  nights, 
freshes  in  the  river,  and  a  crowded  harbour;  while  the  casting  of  their  cargoes  fre- 
duentlv  prevents  any  secession  from  the  most  severe  exercise.  On  one  occasion, 
during  a  strike,  or  what  is  in  the  myrih  called  a  siidk,  sailors  and  others  accustomed  to 
laborious  employments  were  found  incompetent,  even  with  extra  hands,  to  navigate 
the  ponderous  keels.  A  naval  officer  of  rank  once  declared,  that  he  would  rather 
have  a  keelman  from  the  Tyne  than  a  man  that  had  been  a  voyage  to  the  East  Indies. 

These  men  would  be  unable  to  perform  the  duties  of  their  occupation,  were  they 
not  supported  by  nutritious  food.  Accordingly,  the  hardy  keelman  never  goes  on 
board  the  keel '  tiU  his  basket  is  stored  with  a  good  joint  of  meat,  and  a  substantial 
loaf,  j^enerally  of  the  best  flour,  which,  with  a  bottle  of  beer,  form  his  usual  diet. 
The  flesh,  wmch  is  of  the  fattest  kind,  is  sliced,  laid  upon  a  piece  of  bread,  and  then 
cut  into  convenient  bites  with  a  knife.  Seated  around  the  kuddock  (i.  e.  cabin),  and 
covered  with  sweat  and  coal-dust,  they  enjoy  their  meal  with  pecuBar  cheerfulness. 
,One  boy,  called  the  Pee-dee,  is  attached  to  every  keel :  he  is  under  the  immediate 
orders  of  the  skipper ;  but  each  of  the  crew  contributes  a  small  portion  of  his  victuals 
for  the  boy's  support  while  on  board  the  keeL 

An  annual  bargain  is  made  between  the  fitters  and  the  keelmen.  This  is  denomi«- 
nated  the  ^^Bhmdifng^  and  is  usually  ^preceded  by  much  discussion  respecting  the  condi- 
tions. When  the  agreement  is  signed,  the  fitters  treat  didr  keelmen  with  a 
substantial  dinner,  and  abundance  of  ale.  This  is  therefore  an  important  and  a 
happy  day. 

From  the  practice  of  hailing  one  another  on  the  river,  especially  during  the  night 
tides,  they  acc][uire  a  loud  and  vociferous  manner  of  expressing  th^nselves ;  yet  thm 
conduct  is  uniformly  dvil  and  exemplary,  and  they  are  giteduaUy  losing  tnat  blunt 

*  The  celebrated  invention  of  the  SajHy  Lamp  (or,  •$  our  pitmen  call  it,  the  Davy)  does  not  appear  to  have 
greatly  increased  the  safety,  or  augmented  the  comforts,  tif  the  collier.  The  fedihig  of  security  induces  careless* 
ness,  snd  accidents  are  still  not  uncommon.  Besides,  men  now  work  in  situations  where  the  air  is  extrem^ 
unfit  for  human  respiration.  During  a  shift;  the  lamps  cf  the  workmen,  who  ard  placed  wheM  inflriaimable  air 
idbounds,  become  red«hot,  and  must  be  replaced  by  others.  Those  whaare  aceustomed  to  inhale  faydrogeB  gn 
become  yellow  and  sickly,  and  are  attacked  by  complaints  in  the  chest.  These  elects  are,  howeveiv  despiied 
by  the  miner,  as  workin|^  in  ike  fltost^danfjerous  dtuations  is  accoiuited  •  post  ef  lionour.  and  of  pvofit 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  218 

rouffhness  by  which  they  were  dbaracterized.  Their  principal  enjoyment  consists  in 
drinidng ;  but  the  young  men  delight  mych  in  a  boat-race.  Their  conversation  over 
their  ale  naturally  relates  to  their  exploits  of  setting,  casting,  and  rowing.  When  two 
daim  the  distinction  of  being  the  ^'  best  man  in  tke  wark)'  the  dispute  can  only  be 
d^ded  by  combat.  These  contests  are  often  severe,  but  never  succeeded  by  mwce, 
for  they  are  remarkably  friendly  to  one  another;  bdng,  to  use  their  own  language,  all 
ieel-bulUes,*  or  brotiiiers.  The  fund  which  they  have  established  for  the  relief  of  each 
other,  diuring  sickness  and  old  age,  and  also  tor  the  relief  of  their  widows  and  chil* 
dren,  is  highly  honourable  to  themselves,  and  affords  an  example  to  others  worthy  of 
imitation. 

The  wives  and  daughters  of  this  laborious  race  are  also  strong  and  industrious.  They 
usually  wear  wooUen  or  cotton  bed-gowns,  with  a  silk  kerchief,  of  various  colours, 
thrown  carelessly  over  their  shoulders,  and  another  tied  around  their  heads.  Some  of 
them  sweep  the  kedls,  and  have  the  sweepings  for  their  pains :  these  are  called  keel- 
deeters.  Many  of  than  are  also  auployed  in  aelivering  ballast,  chalk,  loelp,  &c.  and 
are,  like  their  husbands,  uncommonly  hardy  and  active. 

The  Seamen  enraged  in  the  ooal-trade  are  distinguished  as  a  most  robust,  active, 
and  fearless  race  oi  men.  The  nutritious  victuals  on  which  they  subsist,  and  the  hard 
labour  they  perform,  brace  their  sinews,  and  ^ve  them  an  unequalled  d^ree  of 
strength ;  while,  from  their  hazardous  and  rapid  voyages,  they  soon  become  expert 
in  seamani^p,  and  accustomed  to  every  kind  of  danger.  Hence  the  coal-trade  has 
always  been  esteemed  ,as  an  invaluable  nursery  for  seamen,  and  the  hardy  and  bold 
sailors  it  furnishes  constitute  the  pride  and  strength  of  the  British  navy.  The  ceie-* 
brated  Captain  Cook  began  his  naval  career  as  a  sailor  in  the  coal-traide. 

Our  seamen  possess,  in  a  high  di^ee,  that  calm  intrepidity  in  dangei;,  and  that 
thoughtless  prodigality,  which  charactmze  sea-faring  people;  nor  have  they  yet 
abandoned  tnose  superstitious  fears  and  observances  wmch  fcnm  such  an  odd  com- 
pound in  the  character  of  the  boldest  men  on  earth. 

Besides  the  ancient  customs  and  superstitious  opinions  incidentally  mentioned  in 
describing  the  peculiarities  of  the  difierent  classes  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  county, 
there  are  many  others  still  retained,  which  .have  outlived  the  gacieral  knowledge  oX, 
the  very  causes  whi6h  gave  rise  to  them*  We  shall  only  notice  a  few  of  the  most 
remarkable. 

It  is  impossible  to  advert  to  our  old  national  customs  and  merry-makings  without 
melancholy  recollections.  Habits  of  plodding  and  getting,  and  a  dismal  superstition 
that  takes  merriment  for  vice,  have  combined  to  banish  from  the  land  the  very  name 
of  "Merry  Old  England."  Our  ancestors  enjoyed  every  kind  sociality,  and  were 
strangers  to  the  unhappy  extremes  of  dull  ricnes  and  shocking  poverty*    Be  happy 

*  A  pauper^  giving  an  account  of  himself  and  family  before  the  officers  of  a  pariah  in  Neveaade,  in  order 
to  obtain  a  settlement^  told  them  (xtder  alia  J  that  "  his  father  had  brought  up  six  of  Hi^n  bQllic9/^--4.  e.  had 
brought  up  six  sons.  Such  a  clause  in  a  deposition  in  the  office  at  Bow-street  would  liaYO  justly  abomed  n 
I^ondon  audience  with  the  account  of  such  a  brood  to  be  let  loose  upon  the  town.~£r«tMi*  . 

VOL.  1.  8  H 


S14  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OP 

and  make  so^  is  the  sum  and  substance  of  aU  wisdom  and  virtue.*  Thus  did  oiu*  fore« 
fathers.  "  An  English  ^ntleman,  at  th^  opening  of  the  great  day,  i.  e.  on  Christmas 
Day  in  the  morning,  had  all  his  tenants  ana  neighbours  to  enter  his  hall  by  daybreak. 
The  strong  beer  was  broached,  and  the  black  jacks  went  plentifully  about  with  toasts 
sugar,  nutmeg,  and  good  Cheshire  cheese.  The  Hackin  (the  great  sausage)  must  be 
boued  by  day  oreak,  or  else  two  young  mep  must  take  the  maiaen  (i.  e.  the  cook)  by 
the  arms,  and  run  her  round  the  marKet-place  till  she  is  ashamed  of  her  laziness.  In 
Christmas  Holidays,  the  tables  were  all  spread  from  the  first  to  the  last ;  the  sirloins 
of  beef,  the  minced  pies,  the  plumb-porridge,  the  capons,  turkeys,  geese,  and  plumb- 
puddings,  were  all  brought  upon  the  board :  every  one  eat  heartily,  and  was  welcome, 
which  Mve  rise  to  the  proverb,  *  'Tis  merry  in  the  hall,  when  beards  wag  alL'f  Even 
the  smdlest  farm^s  and  husbandmen  vied  with  each  other  in  making  the  season  spin 
round  plentifully  and  merrily.  All  the  rustic  games  that  could  be  played  in  winter- 
time were  in  requisition ;  and  Dr.  Drake  thus  sums  up,  from  Tasser's  Poem  on  Hus- 
bandry, the  country  bill  of  fare,  general  and  particular : — *  eood  drinke,  a  blazing  fire 
in  the  hall,  brawne,  pudding  and  sonse,  and  mustard  witii  My  beef,  mutton,  and  pork, 
shred  or  minced  pies  of  the  best,  pig,  veal,  goose,  capon,  and  turkey,  cheese,  apples, 
and  nuts,  with  jolie  carols^  ^  Of  the  customs  most  pecniliar  to  Christmas,  ana  now 
obsolete,  may  l^  specified  the  adorning  the  inside  and  outside  of  the  houses  with 
evergreens,  the  brmging-in  and  burning  the  first  great  log  of  wood  with  vocal  and 
instrumental  music,  the  carols,  the  telling  stories  round  the  fire-side  before  going  to 
bed,  the  wassel-bowl,  and  the  New  Year's  gifts  among  friends  or  to  patrons. 

Christmas,  in  Northumberland,  is,  however,  stiU  a  season  of  great  festivity ;  and 
.the  generous  hospitality^  of  old  times  is,  in  some  degree,  preserved.  Every  family 
that  can  afford  it  is  provided  with  goose*pies,  minced  pies,  and  ale.  Groupes  of  boys 
and  giib  sing  carols  from  door  to  door,  for  which  they  expect  a  small  present.  The 
yule-haby  is  a  sweet-meat  imaffe,  given  to  children  in  commemoration  of  the  nativity 
of  Christ.  Formerly,  the  bsu^er  presorted  his  customers  on  Christmas-eve  with  a 
yule-Jbaby,  and  the  tallow-chandler  gave  a  large  mould  candle.  It  is  still  usual,  at 
this  time,  to  present  gifts,  called  the  Christmas-box,  to  servants,  mechanics,  and 
children,  as  a  reward  for  their  good  behaviour.  A  curious  custom  is  observed  at  thi» 
time :  Sword-dancers  go  about  with  music,  and  two  in  very  strange  attire :  the  Bessy, 
in  the  grotesque  habit  of  an  old  woman ;  and  the  Fool,  almost  covered  with  skins,  a 
hairy  cap  on,  and  the  tail  of  some  animal  hanging  from  his  back.  The  office  of  one 
of  these  characters,  in  which  he  is  very  assiduous,  is  to  go  about  rattling  a  box 
amongst  the  spectators  of  the  dance,  in  which  he  receives  their  little  donations.  In 
some  parts  of  the  county,  this  pageant  is  called  the  Fond  (i.  e.  the  Fool)  Plough  p 

*  An  d^fant  and  amiable  writer  says^  '^ Merry  Old  England  died  in  the  country  a  great  while  ago;  and 
the  sports,  the  pastimes,  the  holidays,  the  Christmas  greens  and  gambols,  the  archeries,  the  May*moniing8, 
the  May-poles,  the  country-dances,  the  masks,  the  harvest-homes,  the  New  Year's  gifts,  the  gallantries,  the 
golden  means,  the  poetries,  the  pleasures,  the  leisures,  the  real  treasures,— were  all  buried  widi  her.''i*-£ni» 
imacr,  Dec.  22,  1817. 

t  See  a  tract,  entitled  '^  Round  about  our  Coal-fire,  or  Christmas  Entertainments*** 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  215 

m 

and  sometimes  the  JVhite  Plough^  because  the  young  men  that  compose  it  appear  to 
be  dressed  in  their  shirts,  (without  coat  or  waistcoat,)  upon  which  creat  numbers  of 
ribbons,  folded  in  roses,  are  loosely  stitched.  Hutchinson  says,  ^'  Omers,  in  the  same 
kind  of  gay  attire,  draw  about  a  plough,  called  the  Stot  (i.  e.  the  Steer)  Plough^  and 
when  they  receive  the  gift,  make  the  exclamation  Largess !  but  if  not  requited  at 
any  house  for  their  appearance,  they  draw  the  plough  uurough  the  pavement,  and 
raise  the  ground  of  the  front  in  furrows.  I  have  seen  twenty  men  m  the  yoke  of 
one  plough."  (Hist,  of  Northum.  vol.  ii.  p.  18.)  The  leader  of  these  parties  usually 
summons  his  men  individually  to  join  the  dance,  in  old,  curious  rhymes,  which  seem 
to  refer  to  the  romance  of  Robin  Hood.  They  are  mostly  attended  by  a  flag-bearer, 
and  a  man  who  fires  a  gun  to  proclaim  their  gratitude  on  receiving  a  gift.* 

Another  remarkable  custom  is  still  observed  on  the  eve  of  Christmas.  A  large 
coal,  or  dog,  called  the  ifule^log^  is  laid  on  the  fire.  The  Celts,  it  is  said,  gave  the 
name  of  Itu  to  the  solstices  when  the  Druids  held  a  solemn  festival,  and  lifted  up 
fires  to  drive  away  malevolent  spirits.  The  Elusian  mysteries  were  typical  of  the 
renewing  of  the  year ;  and  the  bowlings  and  lamentations  made  amid  the  most  horrid 
darkness  for  the  loss  of  Adonis,  were  like  the  solemn  wake  over  the  yule-dog.  The 
return  of  Adonis,  or  the  sun,  iix  these  rites,  was  represented  by  a  priest,  with  a  lighted 
torch. 

Feasting  and  dancing  continue  till  after  the  twelfth  day ;  but  only  Christmas  and 
New-year's  day  are,  at  present,  kept  holiday.  Previous  to  New-y^a^s  day  a  gift  is 
usually  solidted  by  customers  from  their  shopmen,  termed  Ilagmanctf.  Our  Saxon 
ancestors  observed  the  commencement  of  the  year  with  extraordinaiy  rejoicings,  and 
the  custom  is  still  preserved  among  the  labouring  people  of  this  district.  In  Newcas- 
tle, youths  go  about  the  streets  with  music,  before  daybreak,  and  serenade  their  Mends, 
wishing  them  at  the  dose  a  happy  new  year,  in  a  musical  tone  of  voice ;  and  in  that 
town  and  some  other  parts  of  the  county,  it  is  customary,  particularly  among  Scotch 
people,  to  rise  early,  when  friends  visit  each  other,  carrying  with  them  liquors,  or 
spiced  ale ;  and  the  door  remains  carefully  locked  till  the  lucky  friend  arrives  whose 

*  The  Fool  Plough  is  generally  thought  to  be  a  pageant  to  celebrate  the  yearly  termination  of  the  laboara 
of  the  plough.  The  Greeks  and  the  Persiani  commenoad  the  new  year  with  agricultural  oeiiemonies  ;  as  ia 
also  the  case  with  the  Chinese  at  the  present  day.  Martial  dances  were  customary  in  all  warlike  nations. 
Wallis  thinks  that  our  sword  dance  is  the  antic  dance  or  chorus  Annatns  of  the  Romans.  The  Germans^  the 
Northern  Nations,  and  probaUy  the  Gauls  and  Britons,  danced  with  swords  or  spears  at  their  entertainments^ 
Brand  supposes  that  the  dance  at  present  used  in  Northumberland  is  made  up  of  the  gleaning  of  several  ol>« 
solete  customs  followed  on  festive  occasions.  Our  dancers  observe  one  peculiarity :  when  the  swords  are 
formed  into  a  figure,  they  lay  them  down  upcm  the  ground  and  dance  round  them. 


t  Seldon  supposes  this  custom  of  an  antiquity  prior  to  Christianity,  and  that  it  originated  widi  the  Druids. 
Mr.  Douce  refers  it  to  the  Normans.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Lamb  derives  Hagmana  from  the  Greek  Hagiamme^m. 
the  Holy  Mo<m ;  while  others  deduce  it  from  three  French  words  run  together,  signifying  the  Man  is  bom. 
The  Scotch  and  Northumbrians  have  a  ditty,-—''  Hogmenay !  Trollolay !  Give  us  your  wjiite  bread  and  none 
of  your  gray."  John  Dixon,  holding  forth  against  this  custom  once  in  a  sermon  at  Kds<^  says— '*  Sirs,  do 
you  know  what  Hagmena  signifies  ?  It  is  the  Devil  be  in  the  House!  that's  the  meaning  of  its  Htbrew  origim 


ai6  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

foot  is  first  pennitted'to  cross  the  threshold.  The  pot  of  hot  ale  resemUes  the  was- 
sel  bowl  of  our  ancestors*.  New-year%  day  is  still  distinguished  by  many  supentiti- 
ous  observances;  one  of  the  most  general  is  not  to  lend  any  thing,  or  suffer  a  Wht  to 
be  carried  out  of  the  house.  Gifts  are  agldn  made  to  children^  servants,  and  depen« 
dants,  called  New-Yeafs  Gf/iSf  as  tokens  of  favour  and  approbation.  The  first  Mem- 
day  of  the  year  is  called  Hamchel  Monday^  when  petty  dealers  and  tradesmen  are 
sure  to  engage  scnne  heartw  friend  to  give  Uiem  hanoseL 

On  Shrove  Monday,  (which  in  this  county  is  called  CoBap  Monday)  coUops,  L  e. 
slices  of  hung  beef,  and  eggs,  is  the  usual  dinner.  This  was  fOTmerly  the  day  when 
people  took  thdu:  leave  of  flesh  during  Lent.  Shrove,  or  Shrive  Tiiesday,  is  called 
Fagtem's  E'en,  or  Pancake  Tuesday.  This  day  anciently  commenced  the  season  for 
Shriving,  or  confessing  sins,  and  was  a  time  of  extraordinary  s^ort  and  feasting.  The 
panonke  bell  is  t^ed  at  noon  at  Newcastle,  but  the  <Ad  carnival  is  disused.  Code- 
fighting,  and  a  kind  of  pancake  feast,  is»  howevar,  still  retained  <m  that  day,  and  also 
the  game  oifoat-bM.  Tl^e  waits  belonnng  to  Alnwick  come  playing  to  the  castle 
every  year  on  Shrove  Tuesday,  at  2  o'dodc  p.  ».  when  a  foot  bail  is  thrown  from  the 
gate  to  the  populace. 

The  fifth  Sund^  in  Lentf ,  which  the  churdi  of  Rome  called  Pasaon  Sundi^,  is 
in  most  parts  of  Northumberland  called  Curling  Sunday.  On  diis  day  our  laborious 
people  assemble  at  their  accustomed  aldiouses»  to  spend  their  oarlin^-groats.  The 
landlord  provides  the  carliiq^  which  are  steeped  grey  pease,  fried  with  butter,  and 
well  peppered.  This  is  a  very  ancient  custom,  and  seems  to  have  been  originally  de« 
rived  from  the  Egyptians ;  for  Pythagoras,  who  was  initiated  into  their  mysteries, 
interdicted  the  use  of  beans,  because  ^  they  contained  the  souls  of  the  dead."  Hence 
also  the  Romans  held  pulse  of  the  highest  efficacy  for  invoking  the  manes.  But  die 
Christians,  in  cdebrating  the  death  of  Christ  on  Uare  Sunday,  have  substituted  pease, 
perhaps  as  being  b  pulse  fitter  to  be  eaten  at  this  season  of  the  year.  It  is  still  custo- 
mary for  boys  to  go  out  early  on  Palm  Sunday,  and  gather  slips  with  the  willow 
buds,  as  substitutes  for  pahns.  Hot  buns  are  eaten  on  Good  IViday  by  all  those  who 
retain  a  respect  for  old  custpmsj:. 

*  The  Woful  Bonl  wu  a  bowl  of  wine,  er  ale  or  mead,  or  mctiiegliii,  mixed  widi  sfnoes,  sugar,  totet,  and 
eggt.  When  crowned  with  crab  or  other  apples  roasted,  and  tossed  into  it  hissing  hot,  it  becsme  **  bmb'ft* 
wooL"  Hence  also  the  aUudoos  in  poetry  to  the  '^  roasted  crab,"  and  to  the  **  spky  not-brown  ale."  Some 
contMid  that  the  wassd-bowl  came  into  England  with  the  Saxons^  when  the  fair  Reweiia  knelt  befbre  long 
Vortigem,  with  a  cup  of  wine,  and  said,  Watkeil,  health  be  to  yaa.  **  Our  hardy  ancestors,  on  the  vigil  of 
the  New.year,  noTer  fiiiled  to  assemble  romid  the  glowing  hearth  withthehrciieBrfiil  ne^boors,  and  then  in 
tiie  spicy  wassel  bowl,  (whidi  testified  the  goodness  of  their  hoBrts),  drowned  evevy  former  animosity ;,  an 
example  worthy  modem  imitation.  Wassel  was  the  word— Wassel,  every  guest  returned,  as  he  took  the  dr- 
eKa^  goblet  ftom  his  Mend,  winle  song  and  social  mirth  brought  in  the  infimt  year.**  (Antiq.  Rep.  vol.  1, 
p.  5»1S.)  Both  the  Romans  and  the  Britons  gave  gifts,  and  feasted  on  the  first  day  of  the  year,^^Brand  by 
J5ttt,  «o^  l,p.  15.      . 

t  Lent,  in  the  Saxon  language,  signifies  spring,  and  was  used  to  signify  the  spring  fast. 

t  Bryant  says,  that  Baun  Was  the  sacred  bread  anciently  offered  to  the  gods.  The  Jewish  women  ask,  in 
allusion  to  this  custom,  V  Did  we  make  her  cakes  to  worship  her  ?"  (Jer.  c.  ziv.  v.  IS,  Stc)    Hutchinsxm 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  817 

The  Eastor  hotidays  are  observed  by  vinous  amusements,  particularly  i>layiiig  at 
the  hand  ball  and  dancing ;  and  as  the  former  game  is  rather  peculiar  to  tlus  time,  it 
has  been  supposed  to  have  had  a  mystical  reference  to  the  triumphal  joy  of  the  sea* 
ton.  Children,  at  this  time,  have  dyed  and  gilded  egm  given  them,  which  are  called 
Paste-^ggSf  a  supposed  ccnrruption  of  Ptxsche^ggs.  The  Christians  seem  to  have  used 
eggs  as  an  emblem  of  the  resurrection ;  it  is  at  least  certain,  that  the  most  ancient  na* 
tions  considered  them  as  a  sacred  emblem  of  the  r^iovation  of  life.  Anciently  the 
bishops  played  with  the  inferior  der^  at  hand-ball  at  Easter  holidays.  In  these  jo- 
vial times  the  mayor,  alderman,  and  sheriff  of  Newcastle,  accompanied  with  great 
numbers  of  the  burgesses,  went  every  year,  at  the  feasts  of  Easter  and  Whitsimtide^ 
to  the  Forth,  with  me  mace,  sword,  and  cap  of  mantenance,  carried  before  them.  The 
young  people  still  assemble  there  at  Easter  to  play  at  the  hand*ball,  (the  dancing  is 
discontinued),  but  they  are  no  longer  countenanced  in  their  innocent  festivity  by  the 
presence  of  their  governors. 

It  is  still  customaiy  for  young  people  to  rise  on  May-day  every  year  to  fetoh  May^ 
or  green  boughs,  to  deck  their  doors  and  mantle-pieces,  in  testimony  of  their  joy  at 
the  revival  of  vegetation ;  but  they  do  not  now,  as  in  Bourne's  time,  so  in  groups  to 
some  neighbouring  wood,  accompanied  with  music  and  the  blowing  of  horns,  to  bring 
home  branches  of  trees,  adorned  with  crowns  of  flowers.  The  custom,  mentioned  by 
Hutehinson,  of  preparing  a  syllabub  for  the  May  feasts,  seems  also  to  have  become 
obsolete.  This  consisted  ci  warm  milk  from  the  cow,  sweet  cake,  and  wine.  In  this 
a  wedding  ring  was  dropped,  and  whoever  could  fish,  it  out  with  a  ladle  would  be  first 
married*. 

At  Midsummer  it  is  still  usual  in  Northumberland  to  raise  fires  on  the  tops  of  high 
hills  and  in  the  villages,  and  sport  and  dance  around  them.  Of  whatever  material  the 
fire  is  made  it  is  called  a  Bonqfire\.    This  custom  is  of  very  remote  antiquity,  and 

observes,  diat  we  only  retain  the  name  and  form  of  the  Boun  or  Bun,  the  sacred  uses  are  no  more.  Cross 
buns  are  marked  with  the  form  of  the  cross.  It  is  observed  by  Brand,  that  the  country  people  in  the  north 
of  England  make  with  a  knife  many  little  cross  marks  on  their  cakes^  before  they  put  them  into  the  oven  • 
This,  he  thinks,  is  a  remain  of  popery. 

*  The  Puritans  made  cruel  havoc  amongst  the  May  games.  In  a  curious  tract,  entitled  "  The  Lord's  load 
call  to  Englished,"  published  in  I66O,  and  quoted  by  Brand,  there  is  given  part  of  a  letter  ftom  a  Puritan, 
dated  Newcastle,  7th  May,  166O.  *'  Sir,  the  countrey  as  well  a^  the  town  abounds  with  vanities;  now  the 
rdns  of  liberty  and  licentiousness  are  let  loose :  May-poles,  and  playes^  and  juglers,  and  all  things  else,  nsm 
pass  current.     Sin  now  appears  with  a  brazen  face,"  &c. 

t  Dr.  Dicks  derives  bone-fire  from  Baal,  and  defines  it  to  be  a  festive  or  trimmpbant  fire.  Others  say  if 
means  a  6oofi-fire,  a  fire  made  of  materials  obtained  by  begging.  Brand  thinks  tiiat  bone^fire  means  a  contri« 
bntive  fire,  for  the  contributed  Plowing  Days  in  Northumberland  are  called  ^'  Bone  dargs."  In  the  Ordinary 
of  the  Company  qf  Cooks  at  Newcasde-opon-Tyne,  dated  1575,  is  the  following  clause :  *'  And  atsoe  that  the 
said  Felloship  of  Cookes  shall  yearelie  of  dieire  owne  cost  and  charge  mainteigneand  keep  the  Booe^firea,  ac« 
cording  to  the  aimtient  custome  of  the  said  towne  on  the  Sand«hill ;  that  is  to  say,  one  Bone-fire  on  the  Even 
of  the  Feast  of  the  Nativitie  of  St.  John  Baptist,  comm<mly  called.  Midsomer  Eveq,  and  the  other  on  the 
Even  of  the  Feast  of  St  Peter  the  Apostle,  if  it  shall  please  tiie  Mj^ior  and  Aldermen  of  the  said  towne  foy 
the  time  being  to  have  the  same  Bone-fii^es/' 

VOL,  I.— (10)  8  1 


218  GJENERAL  DESCUrPTION  OF 

the  first  cause  is  lost  in  the  distance  of  tim^.  It  is,  however,  certain,  that  the  summer 
solstice  was  the  grand  festival  and  jubilee  of  the  Druids ;  and  the  learned  Bryant  has 
traced  this  ceremony  in  the  religious  rites  of  the  Saxons.  In  Scotland  they  used  to 
run  about  the  mountains  and  higher  pounds  with  lighted  torches,  like  the  Sicilian 
women  in  search  of  Proserpine.  And  Mr.  Hutchinson  infwms  us,  that  it  was  a  cus- 
tom not  many  years  ago,  in  this  county,  for  the  villagers  to  run  with  burning  fire* 
brands  round  their  fields,  and  then,  in  a  forcible  manner,  taking  the  ashes  from  some 
neighbouring  fire,  they  used  to  exclaim — *'  We  have  won  the  flower  (L  e  flour)  of 
the  wake.**  Moresin  conceives  we  trace  the  ancient  Cerealia  in  this  ceremony :  nor 
is  it  to  be  wondered  at,  that  the  Druidic  rites  should  in  course  of  time  be  mixed  with 
the  Roman.  The  same  writer  is  of  opinion,  that  the  custom  of  leaping  over  the  fires 
is  a  vestige  of  the  ordeal,  and  those  performing  these  feats  were  snewing  tokens  of 
innocence  and  virtue,  by  being  neither  burnt  nor  sullied. 

The  custom  of  dressing  out  stools  with  a  cushion  of  flowers  on  May-day  formerly 
prevailed  in  this  district.  A  layer  of  day  was  placed  on  the  stool,  and  therein  was 
stuck,  with  great  regularity,  an  arrangement  of  aQ  sorts  of  flowers,  so  dose  as  to  form 
a  beautiful  cushion.  They  were  exhibited  at  the  doors  of  houses  in  the  villages,  and 
at  the  end  of  cross  lanes,  where  the  attendants  begged  money  from  passengers  to  en- 
able them  to  have  an  evening  feast  and  dancing.  Hutchinson  thinl^  this  custom  is 
derived  from  the  Roman  feast  of  the  Lares,  or  Household  Gods ;  and  adds,  **  This 
tnode  of  adorning  the  seat  or  couch  of  the  Lares,  was  beautiful,  and  the  idea  of  repos- 
ing them  on  aromatic  flowers  and  beds  of  roses  was  excellent." 
,  Wlien  a  contagious  disease  enters  among  cattle,  the  fires  are  extinguished  in  the 
adjacent  villages.  Two  pieces  of  dried  wood  are  then  rubbed  together  until  fire  be 
produced ;  with  this  a  quantity  of  straw  is  kindled,  juniper  is  thrown  into  the  flame, 
and  the  cattle  are  repeatedly  driven  through  the  smoke.  Part  of  the  forced  fire  is 
sent  to  the  neighbours,  who  again  forward  it  to  others,  and,  as  great  expedition  is 
used,  the  fires  may  be  seen  blazing  over  a  great  extent  of  country,  in  a  very  short 
space  of  time.  The  writer  observed  this  custom  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Netherwit- 
ton  above  twenty  years  ago.  The  practice  perhaps  was  originally  intended  to  puriiy 
the  air,  and  avert  the  disorders,  which,  in  early  ages,  frequently  attended  the  heat  of 
summer  in  a  country  covered  with  foreMs  and  swamps.  Hence  Mr.  Shaw  supposes 
this  custom  is  derived  from  the  Druids. 

Formerly  it  was  a  custom  on  the  last  day  of  reaping  to  carry  in  triumph  an  image, 
•apparelled  in  great  finery,  crowned  with  flowers,  and  a  sheaf  of  com  placed  under  her 
arm :  but  sometimes  the  image  was  itself  made  of  com  straw,  the  tops  being  spread 
to  represent  the  head.  This  was  called  the  Kern  Baby^  or  Harvest  Queen^  and,  as  is 
supposed,  represented  the  Roman  Ceres.  We  are  informed  by  Brand,  that  there  is, 
on  this  occasion,  a  sport  in  some  of  the  southern  counties  of  England,  called  '^  Crying' 
the  Mare.''  But  the  writer  has  witnessed  the  same  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Newcas* 
tie  about  thirty  years  ago.  It  is  well  described  by  Blount.  The  reapers  tie  together 
the  tops  of  the  last  blades  of  com,  which  is  the  Mare.  They  then  cry  with  a  loud 
voice  three  times — *  I  have  her ;'  others  answer  as  many  times — *  What  have  you  ?* 
— *  A  Mare !  a  Mare !  a  Mare  !* — *  Whose  is  she  ?*  (thrice  also),  *  J.  B.'  (naming  the 
owner  three  times) — *  Whither  wiU  you  send  her  ?' — •  To  J.  a  Nicks,'  (naming  some 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  M9 

neighbour  who  has  not  all  his  com  cut) ;  then  they  all  shout  three  times^  and  so  re-  ^ 

turn  in  triumph  from  the  field. 

When  the  harvest  is  finished  the  reapers  and  servants  of  the  family  are  provided 
with  a  plentiful  feast,  accompanied  with  mirth,  dancing,  and  singing.  This  is  called 
the  Harvest  H<me^  or  Feast  of  Ingathering ;  but  generally  the  Mell  Sujaper^  Kern 
or  Chum  Supper*.  On  this  festive  occasion  there  is  much  freedom  and  jollity  inter- 
mixed with  rustic  masquerading,  and  playing  uncommon  tricks  in  disguise.  Some- 
times a  person,  attired  in  the  hide  of  an  ox,  personates  the  devil.  This  sport  is  pro- 
bably the  remains  of  an  opinion  which  anciently  prevailed  of  an  evil  genius  that 
reigned  on  earth  during  the  absence  of  the  sun  from  our  hemisphere,  and  which  was 
thus  typified  by  a  person  appearing  in  a  horrid  disguise.  Bourne  supposes  that  the 
original  of  the  harvest  supper  is  Jewish,  but  rejoicing  after  harvest  is  of  higher  anti- 
qmty.  That  men  of  all  nations,  where  agrictdture  flourished,  should  have  expressed 
their  joy  on  this  occasion  by  some  outward  ceremonies,  has  its  foundation  in  the  na- 
ture of  things. 

All-hallow  Even  is  called  TSluUcrach  Night  in  this  county,  from  an  old  custom, 
which  is  still  retained,  of  throwing  nuts  into  the  fire.  If  the  nuts  lie  still  and  bum 
.together,  it  prognosticates  a  happy  marriage,  or  a  hopeful  love ;  if,  on  the  contrary, 
they  bounce  and  fly  asunder,  the  sign  is  unpropitious.  On  this  evening  it  is  also  cus- 
tomary for  young  people  to  dive  for  apples.  A  kind  of  beam  is  suspended  over  a  tub 
of  water,  with  an  apple  stuck  on  one  end,  and  a  lighted  candle  fixed  at  the  other  ex- 
tremity. The  parties  have  their  hands  tied  behina  their  backs,  and  catch  at  the  apple 
with  their  mouths. 

There  stiU  exists  amongst  us  the  remains  of  a  general  custom  to  kill  cows,  oxen, 
and  swine,  at  Martinmas,  which  were  cured  for  the  winter  when  fresh  provisions  were 
scarce  and  dear.  The  cow  slaughtered  by  poor  families  at  this  time  is  called  a  Mart, 
which  is  either  a  contraction  of  Martin,  the  name  of  the  saint,  or  it  refers  to  the  cow 
fair,  or  mart,  where  cattle  are  usually  purchased  at  this  time.  The  entrails  are  filled 
with  blood,  groats,  and  suet,  formed  into  little  sausage  links,  boiled,  and  sent  about  as 
presents. 

St.  Nicholas'-day  is  not  yet  forgotten  by  our  school-boys  in  many  parts  of  the  coun- 
On  this  day  they  har  out  the  master.    During  the  period  of  his  expulsion  from 

e  school,  it  is  strongly  barricadoed  within,  and  me  boys  defend  it  like  a  .besieged 
citadel.  The  master  sometimes  makes  various  efforts  both  by  force  and  stratagem,  to 
regain  his  lost  authority.  Terms  are  at  length  agreed  upon,  and  the  number  of  holi- 
days for  the  ensuing  year  distinctly  stipulated.  The  treaty  is  signed  by  both  masters 
and  scholars,  and 'securities  for  its  performance  provided  by  each  side.     Sometimes  the 

*  Brand  derived  Mell  Supper  from  the  French  word  metier,  to  mingle  or  mix  together.  But  Pegge  de- 
duced it  from  the  Teutonic  word  mehl,  farina^  or  meal,  Hutchinson  says  it  is  so  called  from  the  ancient  sa- 
crifice of  mingling  the  new  meal.  Eugene  Aram  adopted  the  same  interpretation;^  though  he  imagined  it 
might  be  derived  from  a  Mell  wherewith  com  was  anciently  reduced  to  meal  in  a  mortar.  Ar^m  also  asserts, 
that  Kern  Supper  does  not  mean  Com  Supper^  but  Chum  Supper^  because  fh)m  times  immemorial,  it  was 
customary  to  produce  in  a  chum  a  great  quantity  of  cream,  and  to  drcolate  it  in  cups.  ,  Cream  has  now  been 
commuted  for  ale.  This  extraordinary  but  unhappy  man  says,  that  the  Mdl  Supper  was  provided  when  all 
was  shorn,  and  the  Chom  Supper  after  all  was  got  in. 


the 


SflO 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 


contest  will  last  far  two  or  three  days,  whai  the  scholars  at  night  said  out  fon^ing 
parties,  who  rob  the  hen  roosts,  and  collect  the  presents  of  some  good  women  who 
admire  the  spirit  of  the  little  m^i.  But  these  contests  are  neither  so  common  nor  so 
severe  as  formerly* 

The  only  ancient  custom  not  declining  in  the  north  is  the  observance  of  Falentins 
Day.    Birds,  it  is  said,  begin  on  this  day  to  chuse  their  mates,  and  to  couple ;  and 

Cmg  men  and  women  interchange  ornamented  billet-deaux,  usually  called  ^  True 
ve  Knots."  Some  of  our  virgins  still  practise  several  kinds  of  divinations  to  disco* 
ver  their  future  husbands  on  St  Agnesf  Day ;  but  this  custom  has  latdy  declined 
much,  as  have  all  those  that  are  founded  upon  credulity  and  ignorance.  Our  rustics 
have  atwavs  much  merriment  at  a  Scadding  of  Pease.  Boiled  pease  are  eat  out  of  a 
large  bowt  and  whoeva*  can  secure  the  last  pea  will  be  first  married. 

The  old  innocent  sports,  exercises,  and  recreations,  of  the  people,  are  now  systema* 
tically  discoure^ed.  This  is  highly  impolitic,  for  those  who  are  confined  by  daily^ 
labour  require  proper  intervals  of  relaxation ;  and  healthy  games  are  not  wisely  sub- 
stituted by  the  joyless  habits  of  modem  dissipation.  In  the  manliest  and  greatest 
times  of  the  English  character,  rural  and  athletic  sports  and  pastimes  were  encouraged 
and  enjoyed ;  nor  were  harmless  in-door  amusements  despised  or  neglected.  Amongst 
the  games  and  sports  that  are  still  retained  by  the  youths  of  Northumberland,  may 
be  mentioned.  Running,  Leaping,  Wrestling,  Bowling,  Leap-frog,  Cricket,  Foot-ball, 
Hand-ball,  Stotting-baU,  Prison  Bays,  Watch  Webs,  Trivet,  Nine  Holes,  Cat  and 
Dog,  Coits,  Whipping  Top,  Peg  or  Casting  Top,  I)uck  and  Drake,  Spinny-Wye, 
Hatty-Cappy,  Bait  the  Bear,  Marbles  or  Tar,  Cherry  Pit,  Hopping  Beds,  Trundling 
the  Hoop,  Kite-flying,  All  Hid,  Blind  Man's  Buff,  Handy  Dandy,  Shuttle  Cock, 
Mad  Tom,  Puss  in  the  Comer,  Hunt  the  Slipper,  Hot  Cockles,  &c.  &c.  One  ^rnie 
strongly  represents  the  warlike  feats  and  free-booting  practices  of  the  ancient  T^^or* 
thumbrians.  It  is  called  Be^arly  Scot.  As  religious  rites  and  amusements  were 
anciently  intermingled,  bc^s  regulated  the  ccxnmencement  of  certain  games  by  the 
Saints'  days. 

*  St  NicholaB  was  ehoaen  Patron  of  Sdiool  Boys  on  account  of  his  early  abettnebce.  The  Golden  Legend 
sayfi^ ''  He  walde  not  take  the  brest  ne  the  pappe,  but  ones  on  the  Wednesday,  and  ones  on  the  Frydaye." 
His  emblems  are  a  tub  and  naked  children,  because,  as  is  related  in  his  Life,  (Gent  Mag.  yoL  xlvii,  p.  15S)> 
he  restored  two  school  boys  to  life,  after  they  had  been  murdered,  cut  into  pieces,  salted^  and  put  into  a  pork 
tub !  St.  Nicholas  was  also  the  Patron  of  Sailors. 

On  the  festival  of  this  saint  it  iw#s  anciently  the  custom  for  school-boys  to  elect  a  bishop  and  deacons  out 
of  their  number.  Apparelled  in  priestly  vestments,  the  boy  bishop  and  his  companions  walked  about  in  pro- 
cession, and  even  performed  the  ceremonies  and  offices  of  die  church.  In  the  year  1S99,  Edward  the  First' 
permitted  one  of  these  boy  (or  beam)  bishops  to  say  vespers  before  him  in  his  chapel  at  Heton,  near  New- 
castle  upon  Tyne,  and  made  a  considerable  present  to  the  bishop  and  certain  other  boys  that  came  and  sang 
with  him  on  the  day  atter  St  Nicholas'-day.  (Wardrobe  Ace,  of  28  Ed.  L  A.  D.  1299,  published  by  the  An- 
tiq.  Soc.  of  London),  This  pageant,  on  account  of  its  levity  and  absurdity,  was  abrogated  by  parliament  in 
the  reign  of  Henry  VIIL  The  mummery  was  levived  by  Queen  Mary ;  but  seems  to  be  put  down  agaia 
by  Queen  Elizabeth, 


i 
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VOL.  I. 


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■»<■ 


I 


J 


STATISTICAL  VIEW 


OF  THE 


COUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


EVERAL  interesting  particulars  respecting  the  Poor,  the  Education,  the 
Rental,  the  Agricultiiral  Wealth,  tne  PopulatiOD,  and  the  Divisions, 
of  this  County,  have  been  reserved  for  this  place,  in  order  that  they 
might  appear  in  a  collected,  striking,  and  intelligible  point  of  view.  Au 
the  following  statements  are  derived  from  offidd  sources ;  and  were  simi- 
lar returns  from  the  different  counties  of  the  United  Kingdom  occasion- 
ally and  accurately  made  under  the  (firection  of  the  legislature,  and  printed 

for  public  use,  it  wa«M  eonstafaite  »  moot  invaluoblo  date  iw  asoertaining  the  state 

and  wealth  of  the  country. 

AGRICULTURAL  WEALTH. 

The  following  very  curious  and  important  statement  of  the  produce  and  stock  of 
this  county  is  drawn  from  the  returns  made  iai  1803,  under  the  directions  of  an  Act 
of  Parliament,  **  to  provide  for  the  Defence  and  Security  of  the  Realm  during  the 
War.** 

LfTE  STOCK. 


WARDS. 

Oxen. 

Oaws. 

1 

Young 

Calve*. 

.    Sheep. 

Goats. 

1 

Swine  and 
P5g». 

Bambrough... 

Morpeth  

Castle    

8^ 
990 

859 

loss 

.1544 
97 

.  •  • 

1515 
3199 
437S 
1781 

S991 
.14297 

184 
497 

1907 
2801 
2293 
1995 
3964 
9608 

42 

•  •  • 
1 

1247 
1916 
1756 
1349 
2663 
8356 

55 

43338 
20851 
11692 
73875 

150659 
50241 

891 

•    V. 

89 

51 

178 

87^ 

214 

276 

11 

... 

2290 
3028 

5327 
2565 
4105 
9164 

346 

1162 

Glendale  

Coquetdale  ... 
^^indale     

BOROUGH  OF 

Berwick    

.    TOWN  OF 

Newcastle    ... 

Grand  Total... 

6051 

29837 

22610 

17342 

351547 

906 

27987 

VOL.  I. 


SK 


^ 


9SS 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


# 


Wttdidf 

Biding  Hrniet. 

OnMgbtDik 

Tou^D* 

Bambrough 

223 

1306 

507 

Motpeth 
Castle 

418 

1996 

823 

765 

8963 

...       1161 

Glendale 

211 

1586 

431 

Coquetdale 

526 

2952 

...       1082 

Tindale 

1044 

5071 

...       2136 

Borough  of  Berwick . 

49 

206 

18 

Town  of  Newcastle  .. 

803  '      ... 

281 

— 

Total 

...     3539 

17361 

6158 

CORN  GROUNDS. 


WARDS. 


Bambrough... 

Morpeth  

Caatte    

Glendale  

Coquetdale  ... 
Tmdale 

BOROUGH  OF 


Total.. 


«to 


Aorw  oc 
WhMt. 


4706 
8376 
8305 
4302 

5147 
8136 

265 


89237 


Ottt. 


5947 
11779 
11017 

7661 

13559 
20137 

663 


70768 


Badcf. 


1810 
1622 

2482 

2927 
3476 
9103 

461 


21881 


MM. 


Bjr.. 


82 
111 

75 

449 
134 
681 


1482 


BeHuud 


975 
811 
451 

883 

7271 
758 

48 


4653 


POMOA 


277 
468 
560 
315 
415 
1969 

189 


Meadow. 


4193 


4643 

6926 

15682 

4757 
10938 
26573 

405 


69924 


From  this  it  apoears  that  in  the  year  1803,  there  was  in  Northumberiand  142,421 
acres  of  arable,  and  69,924  acres  of  meadow  ground.  The  whole  extent  of  the  county 
is  stated  (pe^  68),  at  I,157i760  acres;  though  later  authorities  make  it  1,197,440 
statute  acres.  It  is  curious  that  Tttmips  are  dknitted  in  these  returns,  which  have 
now  become  an  artide  of  extensive  cultivation. 

The  number  of  Mills  in  Bambrough  Ward  was  24 ;  in  Morpeth  28 ;  in  Castle  73 ; 
in  Glendale  36 ;  in  Coquetdale  42 ;  m  Tindale  84 ;  in  the  Borough  of  Berwick,  3 ; 
and  in  the  Town  of  Newcastle  16.    Total,  806  miUs  for  grinding  com. 


i 


BENTAL,  BATE%  AND  ANNUAL  VALUE 


o» 


PROPERTY  IN  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


|[The  first  Colanm  contains  the  names  of  the  Parishes,  Chapdries,  and  Townships  in  the  Countf  .  The  second 
Column  is  die  Money  raised  by  Poor's  Rates,  or  other  Rate  or  Rates,  in  the  Year  ending  85th  Mardi,  1815, 
and  is  taken  firom  the  Abstract  of  the  Answers  and  Retunu  made  pursuant  to  an  Act  passed  in  the  iPiAy^ 
fifth  year  of  his  Majesty  King  Geoige  the  Third,  intitled,  "  An  Act  for  procuring  Returns  relative  to  Ihe 
Ezpenoe  and  Maintenance  of  the  Poor  in  Enj^and,  and  also  relative  to  the  Highways ;'  ordered  to  be 
printed  by  the  House  of  Commons,  3d.  March,  1818.  The  third  Column  contains  the  Rental  of  the  seve> 
ral  Parishes  and  Townships,  as  ascertained  at  the  Michaelmas  Sesnons  in  1809,  for  laying  on  a  Rate  for 
Building  the  Northumberland  County  Courts  and  Gaol  in  Newcastle.  The  fourth  Column  is  the  annual 
Value  <^the  Parishes  and  Townships  in  1815,  £ot  the  Property  Tax,  taken  firom  an  Abridgment  of  the 
Abstract  t^the  Answers  and  Returns  made  pursuant  to  the  Act  of  the  Fifty-fifth  ofhis  late  Majesty  befcre- 
mentioned.3 


GLBNDALE  WABD.— ITcK  DMikm. 


Carham  p.  ck. 


Total... 


fimhiding  th«  Towndiqpt  of  Wuk,  Leamumth,  Downhun, 
Moneylaws,  BCadnim,  and  Pnabm. 

Beanxton  p.  -  -    Total... 

KiRKNEWTON  p,     -  -    Total.. 

Kirknewton 

Akeld         .... 

Milfield       .... 

Copeland     .... 

Lanton        .... 

Grey's  Forest  .  «  . 

West  Newton 

Coldsmouth  and  Thompson's  Walls 

Yevering    .  . 

Selby's  or  Cheviot  Forest    . 

Paston        .... 

Kilham       .     '       . 

Crookhonse 

Heallipool  .... 

Howtal  and  Reedsford 

Ford  p.      -  ..  -     Total... 

Iirindfaig  Fold,  Hcthenlnr,  Kittmenton  and  Bioamiidge, 

Cnokham,  Etd. 

Total  West  Division... 


Foot's  Rate 
In  1815. 


£ 

808 

79 

705 

52 

118 

106 

78 

60 

65 

55 

»S 

29 
23 
44 

25 
5 

17 

32 

1,294 


Bantal  in  IStfB. 


£ 

17,411 


». 


2,921 


10 


1,846  8 
18,097  10 
1,030 
1,486 
1,335 

589 

850 
1,654 
1,200 

545 
1,625 

1,169 
2,190 
2,314 

250 

680 

1,230 

15,749 


Annual  ViS, 

<n  rnpeity 

inl81& 


1  11 


53,103  19  11 


£ 

16,751 

2,395 
19,461 

978 
1,503 
1,690 
1,290 

850 
1,664 
1,125 

643 

810 
1,401 
2,600 
2,536 

807 

570 

1,494 

17,701 

56,309 


S24 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


GLENDALB  WARD.— £m2  DMtkm. 


■ap* 


■■  *mftw 


■■■J  i    . 


Poor's  Rate 

ml91«. 


Rental  ia  1809. 


XiOWiCK  P.  -  -    Total... 

Including  Lowick,  Baimour,  Bowtden,  and  Holburn. 

DoDDiNGTON  cA,    -  -    Total... 

Doddington  -  -  - 

Ew^trt  .... 

Humbleton  .  -  - 

Nesbitt        .  -  .  - 

Earl  .... 

WooLER  P.  -  -    Total... 

Indudmg  Wooler  and  Pentown. 

Chatton  p,  -  -    Tbtal... 

Induding  Chatton,  Fowbeny,  Ljliam,  Rederiggf  HettM 
Hoiue,  HoitoD,  Weetwood,  Colteu^tm,  ^  Hetton. 

Chillingham  p.    -  -    Total... 

Chillingham  ... 

Newton       .  .  -  - 

Hebbum     .  .  -  - 

Total  East  Divifiioii... 


V 


wr 


BAMBROUGH  WARD,^Nonh  DivitioB. 


I'  "I 


Bambrough  p. 
Bambrough 
]Painbrough  Castle 
'  Beadnel 
SuD^erland 
Wamford 
Warenton 
Tuiucall 
SplSleatone 
S>w0ihoe 
New$tead 
NewhaiQ     - 
li^ofKson 
liUcker 
Hpppen 
GloronuB 

Elford 


..  Totai.., 


1,158 

505 
19S 
126 

99 
30 

57 
1,000 

99d 

404 
134 
141 
189 


AuMul  VaU 

of  Propel^ 

in  1810. 


£.      a.    d. 
12,108  16 

8,790 
2,730 
1,970 

1,539 

525 

2,026 

7,334  10 


3*999 


Poot'iBate 
InUlA 


2,176 

218 
1 

271 

231 

8 

50 

148 


16,202  8 

4,747  10 
1,717  10 
1,190 
1,840 


11,030 

9,893 
3,635 
1,975 
1,681 
630 
1,972 


49a83L    4    6 


B«u4iAl809. 


7,212 
6 1  14,910 

4,978 
2,403 
1,430 
1,130 

48,023 

AraSTTS 

of  Pnwe^ 
inlSlA. 


i^Mm**.*. 


31,512  W  11 
1«324  14 


6 


t^mtrn'm^m^^ 


90,95% 


62 

37 
186 

57 
143 

24 

5 

157 

79 

51 


158  ; 

15 

1,431  19. 

2.058 

1 

119 

986  14 

1,787 

l,008j 

8 

1,952 

1,03»; 

3,777  11 

915 

1,691  17 

338 

5. 

638 

712 

1,633 

6 

1,595. 

5 

NORTHUMBERLAND. 


ns 


-    Total... 


Bradford     - 

Burton 

Adderston 

Outchester 

Shoston 

Ratchwood 

Belfoeb  p. 

Hiddletoi)  -  - 

Belford        .  .  -  - 

Setchaxit    -  -  -  - 

Easington  -  -  - 

Easinfirton  Grange  -  - 

Elwidk  (Moiety  of)  - 

Total  North  Divisian*.. 


BAMBROUGH  WARD.-^Sauth  JHoMott. 


Ellingham  p. 

Ellingham  .  -  . 

ChathiU       - 

Doxford 

Preston 

North  Charlton    .    - 

South  Charlton 

HowicK  p. 

Howidc  Fariab  it  indiided  in  vne  tomtit^ 

Embleton  p,  • 

Emhleton  - 

Stamford     -  * 
Fallowden 

Rodk .        -  «  ^ 

Craster        -  .  - 

I>un8ton     .  i» 
Newton  near  the  Sea 
Rennington 

Brunton      -  — 
Bttixfteld     - 

LONGHOUGHTON  P. 

Litt^houghton 

Boomer  and  Seaton  House 


-    Totat... 


Total- 
Total... 


Total... 


S5 
45 
258 
80 
33 
1 

974 
61 

529 

114 

18S 

43 

75- 


3»150 


Poor*.  H*t» 
in  1815. 


474 

182 

* 

46 
31 

144 
81 

192 

1,063 
218 
183 

72 

99 

48 

181 
110 
141 

78 
48 

289 

163 

53 

78 

427 


650 

2,286 
3,370 

i;86s 

666 

120 

9,573 

1,029 
4,565 

976 
1,268 
1,150 

590 


s 


,    d. 


10 

6     8 

17 

7 

10 


41,086     9  11 


TOL.I. 


Total... 

tfMwJEUHIfiNUliU 

3  L 


Bentd  in  iei& 


of  Property 
in  1615. 


7,172 

1,784 
470 

697 

665 

2,235 

1,321 

2,260 

17,328 
3,420 
2,003 
1,323 
2,284 
923 

i,8ia 

1,807 
1,554 

'«81 

4,704 

2,742 

1,330 

632 

7,761 


10 
10 


7 
11 


2 
6 


8 


9 
6 

4 
4 


IS    6 


T 


16^949 

1,578 

5,754 

2,^98 
2,456 
1,772 
2.389 


47,305 


8,194 

2,756 

• 

676 

661 

2,889 

1,712 

18,694 
6w48« 
1.750 

799 
a.527 

900 
2,069 
1,876 
M65 

900 

350 

5,229 
3,595 
1,160 

474 
7,814 


SS6 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


S21 

106 

63 

18 

48 


5,874  IS 

1,887 
1,639  14 
485  14 
1,148 


Lesbury  and  Hawkhill 

Almnouth  ... 

EOLINGHAM  p.  -  -      Total... 

Ditchbum,  East  and  West 
Shipley        -  - 

Alnwick  p.  -  -  - 

Denwick     .... 

Total  South  Division... 


3,508 


COQUETDALB  WABI>.-~£m<  iNBWM. 


Poor's  Bate 
iiil81& 


<r 


40,860    8    8 


Rontel  ill  1800. 


7,614 
200 


42,390 

Of  rtopaty 
in  1815. 


Total... 


Alnwick  p.  (a  Part)  -    Total... 

Indodiiv  NairavgaM,  llfliiiigite,  WoIlMigMe,  MaAft,  Clqr- 
pott,  and  '>-'™};»^  Waids;  and  Cannonnte,  Alnwick 
South  Side,  Abb^  Landf,  and  Hidn  PlA  Tomdivt. 

Lesbuey  p.  (a  Part) 

Induding  tho  Towndiipf  of  Wooden  and  BiltaB. 

Shilbottle  p.       -  -    Total... 

Shilbottle    .... 

Shilbottle  Wood-house 

Newton  on  the  Moor 

Hazon  and  Hartlaw 

Whittle      .... 

Guizance  ex.  p.       - 

WAEKWOaTH 

High  Buston 

Low  Buston 

Sturton  Grainge 

Brotherick 

Walk  Mill 

Birling        ... 

Felton  p.  .  - 

Felton 

Felton  old,  and  Acton 

Greens  and  Glantlees 

Elyhaugh  ... 

Swailand    .... 

LoNGFBAMLINOTON  ch.       -      Total... 
Indadng  Loi^ifrainliiMiaB,  Nedicr  PnttnWngten,  and  Brink- 
ban  Bi^  and  Low  WaidL 

Total  East  Division... 


Total... 


3,151 


758 
442 

10 
52 
97 
29 
128 

209 
57 

49 
70 

7 

26 
638 

247 

92 

44 

15 

235 

523 


5,274 


20,722  12  10 


7,411 
3,405 

494 
1,272 
1,408 

832 

1,507 
6,531 

981 
2,248 
1,594 

206 

127 
1,374 

8,911 
2,690 
2,238 
710 
470 
2,805 
3,556 


14 
3 
6 
4 

1 
15 
18 


14 

2 

12 
15 

7 
8 


14 


6 
6 


47,134  14  4 


22,909 


7,454 


6,216 


8,468 


6,407 


51,454 


*  Propaty4ax  fctutMcl  wiA  Kllhigham. 


KOHTHUMBEIULAND. 


2f7 


COQUBTDALB  WARIX~JVo>«ft  XNsMM. 


TotBi... 


EoLiKOHAM  P.       .  .    Total... 

Eglingham  ... 

East  Lrilbum  ... 

West  Lilbum 

Beanly        .  .  . 

Titlington  ... 

Crawley      .... 

Brandon     .  . 

Branton       .... 

Old  Bewick  .  . 

New  Bewick  ... 

Hedffeley    .... 

Har^ope    >  .  :         . 

Wooperton  ... 

Bassington 

Edlinoham  p. 

Edlinfffaam 

Learcnild    . 

Boltcm 

l&xxnnpark 

Abborwick 

Lemmington 

Ilbekton  p. 

nderton 

South  Middleton    . 

Nor&  Middleton    - 

Middleton  Hall       . 

Bx)8eden 

Roddam 

Ikoaam  p. 

Ingram       ...  . 

Ileavd^     .... 

Fawdon,  Clindi«  and  Hartdde 

Alnham  p.  .  .    Total... 

Alnham      .... 

Fr^idick     -  .  .  . 

Skreenwood  ... 

Unthank     .... 

Whittinoham  p.  .    Total... 

Whittangham         ... 


-    Total... 


-    Total... 


Pooi'tBate 
iniei& 


£, 

214 

44 

1S8 

107 
16 
18 
64 

191 
105 
40 
21 
36 
48 
16 
373 

79 
20 
104 
50 
41 

79 

832 

116 

45 

57 

87 

35 

42 

186 

103 

52 

31 

174 

126 

23 

12 

IS 

1,639 
463 


Bond  in  1800. 


£.       ». 

18,840 
1,813 
1,748 

2,474 
1,133  10 

851  10 

700 
1,395 
1,542  . 
2,442 
1,970 

737 

497 
1,328 

210 
8,775  16 
1,638 

475  14 
1,707  12 

678    2 
2,206    7 
2,075 
7,058 
1,566 


1,700 


1,010 
1,552 
1,280 
4,063 
2,033 
1,010 
1,020 
4,466  13 
2,367  15 
1,189  10 
650 

259 
16,396  14 
4,876 


AnnuS^vS. 

of  Pioperty 

in  1815. 


£. 

19,926 


6 
6 


9,698 


8,445 


4,290 


4,424 


18»765 


< 


STATISTICAL  VDBW  OF 


Great  Ryle 

- 

100 

1,902 

Little  Ryle             •     .      - 

. 

60 

710 

Calbly  and  Yetlington 

- 

176 

8,685 

Lorhottle    -           •           « 

•     . 

64 

1^06 

Glanton       .            «            * 

m 

266 

2^6 

Shttwdon     - 

ivision... 

50 

M51  14 

T<>tal  North  JD 

S,306 

59,100  18 

65,544 

• 

COQUETDALB  VABD.^Yr«itf  DtvMonu 

Poor*(RMe 

R«nld  inlaw. 

tfPl^^ 

• 

, 

inlSlS. 

* 

■ 

in  1815. 

ROTHBUHY  P. 

Total... 

1,83S 

15,011  10 

20,918 

Hothbury 

. 

358 

1,898    5 

►                      • 

Bickerton 

• 

188 

400 

Little  Tosson 

. 

«0 

400 

Great  To68on 
Wreigh-hill 

} 

U9 

1,885 

Ryehill       - 

14 

820 

Newtown    - 

550 

Whitton      -           - 

« 

56 

658 

Mount  Healy 

• 

80 

174  18- 

Raw            -            ^            . 

^^ 

16 

217  17 

Leeward     .            -            - 

• 

101 

450 

' 

Holline  Hill 
FaUowIees 

• 

90 

980 

1 

• 

• 

210 

• 

Hepple        ... 

. 

70 

1,010    5 

Hepple  Demesne    - 

. 

83 

500 

• 

Caistron       -            -    ' 

. 

26 

485 

■ 

Flotterton 

• 

128 

800 

Warton       -            - 

• 

28 

540      < 

Thropton    -           •           - 

*. 

18 

907    5 

« 

Hl]fh  and  Low  Tr?if  hitt    - 

• 

9 

1,250      - 

I 

Sratter         ... 

•' 

«0 

-859 

» 

Cartington 

• 

7 

1;878 

) 

Faperhaugh 

PeMon       -           4           . 

f 

17 

495 

48' 

■ 

Hesley  Hurst          -            - 

1 

85 

-205 

• 

Kidland  Lord$hipj  f :r.  p-  '  - 

• 

^ 

2,710 

Alwinton  p.         - 

Totd... 

588 

11;451  10-      ■ 

19,966 

Indudibg  H^lyrtone  PanwfaSa  Chapdry^ '  * 

Alwinton    -       '<    - 

: 

Ji4 

618  10 

r 
• 

Biddteton      ^     ^  ^'  r 

1 

. « 1 

r    106 

2,216 

p 

Burradon    -      •>.  -<          -^ 

- 

67 

1,706      .. 

:  i"'.-  . 

NORTHUMBERLAND. 


S99 


— TT 

J.     «.    1 

— TT 

Clennell      ... 

• 

400 

Fairhaugh 

. 

120 

Faimham 

• 

ao 

800 

Tiinbridge  and  Whiteside 

. 

9 

2,231 

Nedierton  Ncnrth  Side 

• 

87 

524 

Netherton  South  Side 

..   - 

22 

620 

Peels 

• 

18 

1,600 

m 

Sharperton 

- 

11 

616 

*' 

Brownrigg 

- 

75 

Foxton        ... 

. 

80 

Holystone  p.  ch. 

Total... 

244 

8,098 

• 

Holystone 

Harbotde    ... 

• 

49 

474 

• 

24 

277 

Barra           .            •            • 

• 

83 

230             J 

• 

Dueshill      ... 

. 

12 

620 

Linsheels    ... 

ivision... 

126 

3,677 

Total  West  D 

1,834 

34,556 

40,284 

Anin«lV«L 

COQUBTDALB  WA'^D.^^^Souih  DhMm. 

Po«r'(B«te 

Bcntal  in  1800. 

of  PtoperQF 

iiil81& 

ial61& 

Elsdon  p.              -           . 

Total... 

1,459 

13,600  18    4 

19,508 

Klsdon  Ward 

.  - 

194 

1,511  19 

Monkridge  Ward 

90 

1,218    7 

Otterbum  Ward     . 

178 

1,811  19 

• 

BxKhester  Ward     . 

385 

3,857  15    6 

■ 

Bamshope  ex.  p.    - 

26 

450 

Trouffhend  Ward 
Wood  side  Ward     . 

889 

4,057  12     4 

ivision... 

200 

1,193     0    6 

Total  South  B 

1,459 

13,600  13     4 

• 

19,508 

TINDALB  WARD^IT^  DMtlom. 

Poar'iIUte 

B«otia  in  1800. 

cf  Pioperto 

ialSlA. 

in  181^ 

Haltwhistle  p. 

Total... 

1,912 

19,020 

28,709 

Haltwhistle 

• 

829 

1,543 

Hartleybum            ^ 

• 

59 

409 

Featherston 

• 

106 

926    8 

Thirlwall     . 

• 

219 

1,671 

Blenkinsop 

. 

145 

1,415 

Wall  Town 

• 

62 

1,290 

BeUister      •           ^           . 

. 

43 

812 

VOL.  I. 


Indnded  in  Alwinton^ 
3M 


WSb 


STATIST 

riGiAi 

VIEW  OF 

- 

• 

ir 

£      ».    d. 

flv  . 

Plenmefler 

» 

«4 

1,256 

< 

Kidley  and  WiHimotesivick 

-•k 

-67 

1,796 

Milkridge 

* 

•    162 

9 

2,049 

Henshaw     -            -            - 

^ 

410  ! 

9i8f87    5 

Thomgrafton  arid  CrawhaQ 

. 

183 

1,^46  15 

Com  wood                -       .     - 

• 

56 

i918  12 

L AMBLE  Y  ex.  p.     - 

" 

14 

1,000  10 

1,21'8 

Knaresdale  p.      - 

Total... 

207 

1,901 

1,991 

Knaresdale  High  Quarter 

- 

840 

Knaresdale  Low  Quarter    - 

- 

* 

1,061 

Whitfield  p.       - 

Total... 

316 

4,700  10 

4,789 

KiRKHAUOH  p.         -              - 

TotAl... 
ivision... 

197 

1,478 

1.459 

total  West  D 

2,646 

28,095 

33,168 

TIllDALB  WKKn.'^^ortk'matM 

TUWIU 

Poor*.  Rate 

Rental  in  1809L 

Annua  VaL 

I"***                                                                                                                    Vr»                                           y,                                                  »*1 

•  •  •  • 

ia  181& 

• 

in  1815. 

SiMONBURN  P. 

Total... 

2,196 

29,629    3 

48,196 

Simoribum 

• 

193 

4,810 

7,563 

HuiHshaugh 
Haughton 

- 

l39 
62 

1,482  10 
1,446 

}  ^'870 

Kiftrwick    -           -           - 

• 

. 

Hallbams 

m 

Warkspark 

m 

TheietunB  for  these  Towiuihips  are  indaded  ix 

lotben.    The 

Townahipf  attached  to  the  new  Patuhes  foimed  cntt  of  fii> 

monburn  axe  axiauged  as  accurately  as  possible. 

> 

Wark  p.* 

■ 

Wark          . 

. 

173 

1,194 

t 

Warksbum 

- 

178 

3,124 

8,509 

Shitlington  High. Quarter 

« 

49 

1,185 

1 3,286 

Shitlington  Low  Quarter    - 

- 

96 

569 

BSLLIKOHAM  p.        - 

•' 

k 

!Bellingham 

• 

144 

599 

3,890 

Leemailing 

- 

111 

1,896 

8,485 

Kook           -            - 

» 

"89 

i;28S 

i 

Chtolton  East  (Quarter 

* 

116 

71« 

J. 

Charltoh  West  Quarter 

• 

44 

748    9 

+ 

Tarsetbum 

- 

139 

1,275 

4,008 

*  Wark,  Bellinghiun,  Thomeybuni>  Faktead^  and  Greystead  parishes,  are  indaded  in  the  total  of  Simonbum 

parish. 

t  Iftchided  in  Shitlington  High  Quarter. 
X  Nook  and  East  and  West  Charlton  townahipa  are  indaded  in  Bellingham  in  the  returns  for  the  property-tasc. 


$rdli9»triB[6fillLiyyi3. 


'an 


mtmm 


Thorneyburn  ^.  '  -i. 

Thomeybum 

Tarset  -  -  - 

Fallstone  p.        -  ^ 

Flashett  and  Tynehead 

Wellhaugh 

GllEtrSTEAD  p.  -  «- 

Smalesmouth 
Chilton       .  - 

Warden  p.  -  - 

Haydok  p.dL 
Newwiough  p.  eh. 

Tb/ont  iBchiiid  too  TowuuKN  n  1^6WDraiiBi« 

HidnratdM  and  Walwftk  6.,  Walwick/Sjrdull,  AUenmh 
and  Camw,  EIdDgton,'La)>|^ee,  Deauaw,  Monllee,  Up- 
wood,  WUbi*^,  BnfcniMugh,  Waanla^,  and  Ha.;dHi 
Bridge,  ioiith  wd  north  dde. 

Totall^orth-west  Division... 


159 
129 

117 
1T4 


Total... 
Total... 
Total... 

Netherwuden, 


MMiiN^ 


^mmtm 


* 


TINDALE  WARDa-^oftt^  JMMon. 


-    Total... 


Wards 


2492 


1,501 


Hexham  p. 
Market  Street 
Hencoats 
Friestpopple 
'Gilligate 

r  High  Fart  of  High  Quarter 
^1  Low  do.     of        do. 
><  ^  I  East  Division  of  Ldw  Quar. 
.|3j       [West  do.  of    do. 

North  Division  of  Middle  Quarti^ 
'South  do.  of        do. 

West  Quarter 
!St.  JoitN  Lee  p.    -  -    Total... 

Acomb        .... 
Fallowfleld 

Cocklaw      -  -  -  . 

Fortffate 

Anick  .... 

Anick  (brrange         - 
Sandboe      -  • 


*  Indaded  in  Smailcaaaoatbu  t  Tarwt  kcladed  in  Tanetbum. 

II  This  indttdcs  the  whole  of  HryhamBhiffC 


168 

707 
142 


S,21S 


Poor'f  Rate 
In  181& 


£.       S.     d. 


798 
1,915 

2,184 
2,859 

1,277  14 

ySO 

4,201 

10,285 

4,694 


T. 


4%809     3 


m» 


BcBtal  in  1809. 


ffiSnSr^ 
tPiautaj 

inl81& 


18,016    7    6 


8,350 


108 

1,572 

271 

3.190 

169 

1,972  7 

143 

2,932 

855 

18,089  11 

246 

4,400 

650 

99 

3,630 

12 

578 

79 

899 

10 

670 

88 

1,«78 

t 


6,673 

1,989 

5,424 

15,225 

5,495i 


63,918 


29,223 


16,984 


1112,239 


21,380 


I  Indaded  in  Plaahett 


88S 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


Binofield     .  .  - 

HaJungtpn  ' 

Wall     T    - 
Allendale  p.      - 

laOnHag  ADandale  Town.  K«cnb,  Paiki  BiiMdad*,  Cnum 
Font  (Low  Part),  Forat  (Hi^  Fait),  Wot  AUendile 
Qligh  Pan),  aadWat  ABendale  (Low  Part). 

Total  South  Division... 


Total... 


95 
78 

91 
1,708 


TINDALB  WABO.— &H<  ZNdMm. 


4,701 


1,746 

1380 

2,021 

10,177 


s.    d. 
9      , 


46,282  18    6 


. 


Total... 


OvinghaM  p. 

Oringham 

Nafferton    - 

Spital 

Wdton 

Rutchester 

Harlowhill 

Wylam 

"Honiey 

Whittie      - 

Ovinfftcm    • 

Fruqnoe 

Frudhoe  Castle 

Eltringham 

Mickley 

Hedley 

Hedlqrwoodside 

Ducats  Hagg 

COBBBIDOE  P. 

C<n:bric^ 

Great  Wbittington 

D^sten 

Aydon 

Aydon  Castle 

Tnombrougb 

Halton 

Halton  Shields 

Clarewood 

Little  Whittington 

Bywell  St.  Petee  p. 

Bywefl  St  Peter  and  St  Andrews 

Kewton      •  -  - 


Foot'*  Bate 

iiil81& 


Total... 


Total... 


1,447 
58 

8 
99 

76 
285 
168 

80 
170 
191 

87 

27 
100 

111 

96 

1 

883 

883 

80 

218 

55 

8 

49 

75 

18 

26 

21 

461 

114 

65 


Bantal  in  IMS. 


14,908  18 
528 
620 
105 

859 
960 

1,698 
1,405  5 
1,218 

2,015 

1,100  5 

788 

265 

1,098 

1,231  18 

681 

55 

16,778 

5,857 
1,252 
8,912 

942 

400  10 
1,774 

964 

862  10 

784 

600 
8,182 
2,017 

989 


12,184 


62J88 

OK  PlOUCttjr 

iiil81& 

19,475 


19,154 


10,546 


1 


I 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


fsa 


• 

— TT 

""T- 

Newton  Hall 

47 

639 

, 

Aoomb        .           •            •           - 

80 

.     480 

EspershielcU  and  MiUshield            « 

61 

985 

^ 

H^ey        .           .           -           • 

6 

556 

^ 

Newlands  and  Wittonstall 

57 

8,645  19 

Broomley ,  Painshaw  Field,  and  New  ) 
Midley                -           .              j" 

94 

1,709 

High  Fotherly        ... 
SteUing       -           -      .      - 

ao 

55» 

8 

880 

Whittonstall  ch. 

89 

$^861  19 

8,081 

Apperly      -            -            -       .     - 

816 

• 

Bywell  St.  Andrews     -     Total... 

.      178 

8,545 

4,868 

Bywell  St.  Andrews,  see  Bywell  St. 

' 

Peter. 

« 

Stocksfield  Hall      - 

89 

885 

Bead           .... 

85 

450 

1 

Sl^ord       .... 

11 

1,888 

Riding        .... 
Brooimiaugh           .... 

44 
44 

847 
640      • 

; 

Shotley  p.  cA.       -           •    Total... 

Lov  ftodj,  or  Eait  Qfuattats 

891 

5,557 

6,804 

Slalet  jl.  cA.          -             -             » 

896 

8,858 

4,689 

Induding  flhkj  and  Shkj  tfOt  i^ankt. 

Heddon  ok  the  Wall  (part)  Total 

868 

4,748 

5,854 

West  Heddon  &  Heddon  on  the  Wall 

SOS 

8,010 

8,068 

Whitchester            .            ^            ,. 

61 

964 

1,070 

Houghton  and  Close  House            ^ 

84 

898 

1,818 

Eachwick                .            •            ^ 

-81 

876 

1,00| 

Newbttkn  p.  a  pert)           «           ^ 

74 

1,084  15 

Indudiiig  Dritan  TowniUpk 

Total  East  Division... 

4,817 

60,958  18 

73,415 

TINDALB  WAN^-^^orth^tttt  DhMmu 

m 

Poot'iKMe 

Rental  in  1S09. 

in  mi. 

BoLAM  P.  (a  pait)                -    Total... 

847 

4,898 

5,157 

Hamham    .... 

14 

645 

1 

» 

Shortflat      .... 

88 

780 

Bradford     .           ,           .           . 

56 

564 

Bdsay         .           .           .          -. 

144 

8,464 

KntKWHELPINOTON  P.         .      Totfll... 

657 

10,188    9 

9,184 

Kirlcwhelpington    .           *           - 
Catchenaoe 

888 

1,451  14 

• 

870 

1 

VOL.  L 


8  N 


W(99 


STATISnOAI.  VmW  ^QfF 


1 

JP.     s.    a. 

T  kittle  Harle            * 

£7 

-701   a 

r  rr 

WestHarle             -            .- 

9 

-471 

t 

Fawns 

» 

204 

f 

Ray             -            -            - 

« 

1^82 

« 

Capheaton  and  White  House 

140 

1,668 

, 

Great    Bavington    and    BavingtonV 
South  Side           -            -              j 

94 

1,390 

. 

Westwhelpington  . 

128 

1,658 

• 

.Croffdon      -            -            -            - 
Cnldwell-houBes      -          -           - 

215 

i 

82  10 

tt 

ThockbingtoK  p.              -    Total... 

195 

8,987      . 

^115 

TliOidpington          «         .  *      .     * 

42 

Mro. 

Carycoats    -         .  -            -        .     - 

■  66 

680    ' 

Sweethope               -            .            - 

40 

315 

,   » 

Tiittle  Bavliigton     - 

.47 

1,682' 

Chollerton  p*     -           -     Total... 

594 

10,833  la 

18»87)l 

Including  ChoUerton,  Litlfe  6«inlnini»  Gutnertoo,  CUpchase, 

• 

1                    • 

Butdand,  Colwen  and'  Swiill^Urn,  Bttttafind,  Whifisride> 

law,  and  Bramnhope.    . 

•• 

• 

■    • 

BiETLEY/i.  ch.       -        ,  ?  -     Total... 

808 

8,307 

4,898 

KniftHABLE  P.       f       i   *    TotttL.: 

189 

2,294 

8.449 

Kirkharle    -            -            - 

144 

1^94 

Hawick       -           ,.           , 

45 

40O 

KiBKHEATON  ear.  jp,            -    Total... 

105 

1,627 

• 

Haktbubn  p.         i          «»    Total.*. 

892 

5,^56    a 

7,418 

Htttington              ..            «            ^ 

87 

608    5 

• 

Hartmgton  HaH     -           - 

17 

580  18 

Deanham    -     ;      - 

22  1 

56« 

Faralaws     -     :      « 

2 

119    5 

WestShafta            * 

.18 

EastShafto             - 

56 

501 

Greenlightoli           -            -            - 

48 

423 

Wallingtoii              -            -            . 

142 

1,638 

Harwbod     -            -        ""."'- 

IS 

497     • 

a 

Cambo         -            -        .    . 

38 

402 

Stamfoboham  p^-              ^  .  TotaL,* 

.1^14 

18,7Ma8      .. 

28^^70 

fltamfordham  and  Heugh   ^^           ^ 

378 

3,81:8  11 

' 

Kearsley 

14 

370             I 

« 

Ingo            -     «       - 

80 

110     .        ^ 

• 

Hawkwell         .       - 

.  81 

1,175 

Black  Heddcm  *        -            ^            . 

45 

973  10 

m 

Bitcbfield    ^ 

6 

780             1 

WestMatfeto    '      • 

103 

2,235   • 

• 

East  Do.     ... 

-88 

2,198 

» 

*  IndudU  lit  ] 

Urkharle. 

• 

IfOBVaVl^liK^liiAlfD: 


ClwQiebum  Qraqge . : 

Ottton 

Nesbk 

Fenwick     .  ».  ♦  . 

Ryal 

CoRSENSiDE  p.        .  -     Total... 

tadUdiiv  Wcitwoodltum,  fiUlbaoi,  teid  Chesteriiope. 

Total  North-east  Division... 


wm 


MORPETH  WARD.— fwt  IHviifoN. 


i**^ 


i«*^-^»ita 


^1      t      li  N  N  I 


■*•*« 


Warkworth  p. 
Warkworth 
Amble 
Togston 
Hauxley 
Acklington 
Acklineton  Bark 
Morwick     - 
Glosterhill 
Chivington  ch. 
East  Chivington 
West  Chivi^^n 
Hadstone    * 
Bullock's  Hall 

WOOBHOUK 

Woodhoiii 
Woodhom  Demc 
North  Steton 


Total... 


Total... 


-    T^>tal. 


Linmouth 

Cresswell     - 

Ellington    .  ^  - 

NfeWBtOGIN  p.  A 

WiDDRlNGTOK  f.tk 

Indiiding  Liittoii  uni  Dna^ii^ 

Felton  p.  {%  paflV  -  - 

Eshot  -      .     -. 

Stothauffh  &  ]^t  &  West  ^hirdton 
Bockenneld  ... 

BoTHALL  p.  .  -    Total... 

*  Indnded  in  Waikwortb.    t  No  retam  ww  made  ftr  Wot 


Total... 
Total... 


48 

24  1 

:49 

41 
57 


>  I  ■  I 


8,967 


Poor's  Rate 
tent5. 


1,061 

239 

161 

95 

105 

224 

4S 

56 

22 

116 

69 

t 
47 

572 
05 

^9 
64 
^1 

131 

77 
US 

344 

91 

t 
154 

359 


■ 


». 

915  12 

635 

970 
1,217 
1,887 

120 
3,526 


m      n*i 


64,560 


Rental  in  1809. 


Amui^vaL 

of  Pzopctty 

in  IStA. 


12,276 
2,814 

2,127 
1,705 

1,509 
1^42 

517 
1,313 

348 
6,796 
3,142 

1,399 
1,896 

358 

11,660 

1,708 

^36 
2,116 

682 

890 
1,862 

3,369 

660 

5,512 

8,019 
2,387 
2,678 

2,959 
9,526 


8  10 

8 

9  6 
1     4 

2 


1 

4 

19 
12 

10 


8 


13  6 
13  2 
10 


2 


12 


4»«57 


74,125 


19,431 


11,734 


5»IAL 

f  .7.$5(i 


10,124 


and  Thinton  nndor  act  55  Geoi  III. 


386 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OP 


Bothall  Dememe    ... 
Ashington  and  Sheepwash 

L^ghirst 
Old  Moor 
Vi^ouAM p.  eh,       .  .    Total... 

Indndisg  Ul^uon  Gnage  cod  fltfbfwiood. 

Total  East  Division... 


MORPBTH  WAWSK^Wut  IHMom. 


Habtbu&n  p.  (a  part) 
Hartbum    - 
Hartbum  Grange 
East  Thornton 
West  Thornton 
Longwitton 
High  Angerton 
Low  Angerton 
Comdffe      - 
North  Middleton    . 
South  MiddlcKon    - 
I^hlaws    - 
Whitridge 
Rothley      . 
Todridge     - 
Netheswitton  p.  eh. 
Netherwitton 
Niumikirk 
Ousdy 

Ritton  Colt  Park    . 
mtton  White  House 
Healy  and  Comb  HiO 
Coat  Yards 

LOMOHOKSLET  P. 

Cariide's  Quarter    - 
Riddle's  Do. ' 
Freeh<rfd  Da 
Stanton 
Wingates    • 
Liongshaws 
Witton  Shields       . 


.    Total... 


.    Total... 


-    Total... 


141 
81 

101 
88 
14 

901 


«,797 


inlSlS. 


M6 

5 

18 

81 

88 

115 

67 
84 

9 
108 

9 

1 

81 

76 

817 
174 

17 

65 

48 

5 

14 

714 

801 

168 

87 

167 

118 

81 

16 


8,885 
1,148 
8,158 
8,081 
975 
8,800 


a.    a. 
8 


10 


4    6 


57,591     4 


is  ISMl 


11,855  19    6 
178 
1,184 
987  10 
888    8 

1,707    8 
1,888  15 

998    8 

465 
1,755 

587 

888  18 

180  14    6 
1,144  10 

70 
8,789  17    6 
1^9  15    6 
90 

848  15 

580     4 

485  14 

888    9 

878 
9,756    8 
8,676  17 
8,481    9 

701  10 
1,608  10 
1,491  18    8 

488 

887 


IT 
M95 
464 
1,585 
1,868 

1,817 
4,146 


58,478 


LttnuiM 


in  MM. 


18,719 


4,084 


11,846 


NORTHUMBERLAND, 


S37 


Total... 


TotaJ... 


Todbum     •  ^  «, 

Brinkburn  South  Side  ex.  p. 

MiTFORD  p.  (a  ptrt) 

Mitford 

SDitalhiU     . 

Nevrton  under  Wood         •- 

Pigdon        -  *  ,. 

Thropple     -  -  „ 

BenridKe     .  *  « 

Nunrimnj^ 

High  ancTLow  High  Law« 

Newton  Park  ^ 

BoLAM  *.  (a  part) 

Bblam 

Bolam  Vicarage 

GallowhiU 

Hebburn^)^. 
Hebbum     - 
Causey  Park 
Fenruther 
Tritlington 
Earsdon 
Earsdon  Forest 
Cockle  Park 
Morpeth  p.  <a  part) 
Morpeth 
Bullersgneen 

Total  West  ^Division... 


*    Total... 


Total:.. 


» ■. 


wm 


mm 


7 
85 
862 
112 
£2 
52 
25 
44 
88 
80 

17 
22 
95 
55 

40 
275 
80 
14 
84 
84 
49 
27 
87 
1,768 

1,629 
189 


^;097 


CASTLE  yUMDi-r-fVa*  Mtkkm. 


^7»" 


■I    m 


•  -    TotaJ... 


.• 


POTf yjlLAND  P. 

Ponteland  - 

Hig^ CallertqRi    ,,Vf.:i 
XjOw  Callerton    -     - 
Coldcoats     •  -       .     - 

Milbum      ■  .       '     . 

M9fnimGrange  •  'i-'       "I  ., 

Higham  Dikes  •    ^ 

Kirkley,  Carter  Motor,  and  Benridge 

Berwick  HiU        '   * 

Hortoh  Grangi  ' •  -  !    .  ^.  i         J 

VOL.  I.        '      '     '  ■-••■•''''''■  1""=  •'•"••'■''•         ■■  «' O 


Poor'i  Sate 
iiil81& 


■♦* 


(.  i 


916 

162 

55 

91 
30 

47 

S6 

5 

150 

128 

80 


W.      sTd. 

475  19  3 
1,001 
8,874  15 
2,454 

£07  15 
1,461 

829  10 
1,008 
1,114 

802  10 
1,168 

830 

1,892  18  9 

701 

280 

911  18  10 
9,102  8 
1,567  10 
1,262  10 
1,387  8 
1,406 
1,335 

845 

1,299 
6,986  15 
6,720  13 
266     2 


imww^*^ 


Rental  In  180ft. 


PUf    »^ 


23,551  18 

3«759  IS 
1,801    « 

717 

&9i    7 
1,709    4 

736    4* 

507 
2,769  16 
2,248  14 
1,609  <  8' 


6 
6 


6 
6 
6 


887 
9,704 


2,848 


7,912 


7,716 
7,365 1 
351 


■ 


•^Property 


►•  t 


i  .  1       T.. 


f 


888 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


■ 

— r-' 

£.      ».    d. 

Brenldey     -            .            .            - 

88 

1,179    9 

Diimin^ton             ... 

31 

1,164 

Prestwick                ... 

56 

1,731 

Mason         .... 

95 

1,878 

Darras  Hall             ... 

19 

658 

River  Green  ex.  p,          -    Total... 

IS 

530 

550 

Whalton  p,          -           -    Total:.. 

819 

7,428  15 

9,985 

Whalton     .... 

145 

2,847 

Oyle            .... 

95 

8,886  15 

Riplingtou              ... 

46 

500 

Newham     .... 

88 

1,240 

BoL AM  p  (a  part)    ... 

802 

Ineladiiig  Trewiak  TowMh^ 

Newburn  p.           -           .    Total... 

2,549 

16,848  18 

21,596 

Newbum  and  Lemington 

489 

1,881  10 

Newburn  Hall        ... 

880 

2,480 

North  Dissingiou 

89 

926 

South  Dismigton 

49 

1,821 

Walbottle                -            ^ 

267 

2370  18 

, 

Throckley                - 

285 

806 

West  Denton          .           ,           . 

166 

870 

Ekust  Denton  and  Sugely     - 

820 

1,784  15 

Black  Callerton 

294 

1,448 

Woolsingham          ... 
East  and  West  Whorlton 

80 

800 

• 

51 

410  10 

Butt^^rlaw       •         .            .            . 

9 

450 

Newbiggin              .            .            - 

171 

900 

Morpeth  p.  (a  part)           -    Total... 
Newmmster  Abbey 

176 

5,185    2 

• 

92 

1,884    2 

Tranwell,  Gudgeon,  and  High  Chuidi 

18 

788 

Shilvington              ... 
TwizelT      .           .           .            - 

50 

1,878 

21 

1,140 

Meldon  p.  (a  part)             -     Total... 

52 

1,905 

2,194 

MiTFORD  p.  (a  part)            -     Total... 

56 

1,857 

1,830 

iDdading  Moteden  and  Edinstm. 

Stannington  p.  (a  part)    -    Total... 

940 

11,758    8 

14,091 

Induding  Stauiiiigtoii  EmI  Side,  Stmuiiiglmi  Wett  SUe, 

BMt  and  Wert  Duddoet,  BtJtmiA,  CUfbm  end  Cdldwdli 

BdhM,  and  fi]agd«n  Toinuhras.    PlcKf  and  Shotton  an 
in  the  Eatt  DiTJaon. 

Heddon  on  the  Wall  t.  (part)  Total 

46 

1,609 

2,476 

Heddon  on  the  Wall 

499. 

East  Heddon           •            - 

790 

Eachwick    .            -            -            - 

820 

St.  John  p.  (a  part)            -    Total... 

908 

9,286  15 

1  20,698 

minster  md  Tranwell  property-tax  induded  in  M< 

nrpetfa  W« 

rd,  and  Shihnqgtan 

wdTwisd 

niiigtan  Vi 

nith. 

NOKTHUMBERLAND. 


289 


— JT 

1.795 
8,866  15 
4,625 
1,554 

11,644  12 
4,635 
970 
1,495 
2,132  12 
2,412 


•8,968 
11,730 

t 
19,676 


Westgate  and  Swinbum  Closea, 
dswick       .... 
Benwell       .... 
St.  Andrew  p.  (a  part 

Indudiiig  Fenham. 

GosFORTH  P.  (a  part)  .    Total... 

Kenton       .  .  .  - 

Fawdon      .... 
East  Brunton  ... 

West  Brunton        -  -  - 

Coxlodge     - 

Total  West  Division... 


CASTLE  WAXD—Bait  OhiriMt. 


i*«^ 


Cramlington  jp.  dl«  -    Total... 

HoRTONjp.  cA.  - 

Horton        .... 

Bebside       .... 

East  Hartford 

West  Hartford        -  .  . 

Coopen       ... 

Morpeth  p.  (a  part) 

Catchbum,  Morpeth  Castle,  Stobhill,  \ 

and  Parkhouse     -  - 

Hepscott     -  -  - 

GrOSFOETH  P.  (a  part) 
North  Gosf orth 


Total... 

] 

Total... 


South  Gosforth 
Earsdon  p. 
Earsdon 
Backworih 
Burradon    - 
SeghiU 

Seaton  Delaval 
Holywell    - 
Hartley 
Newsham    • 
South  Blyth 
Long  Benton  p. 


-    Total... 


} 


.    Total... 


241 

244 

423 

38 

728 

419 
81 

44 
124 
110 

6,757 


s. 


PoortlUte 
in  1815. 


iiw.ii>i^~.  L,oiig  Bcntoo,  Little  BcBton,  Wdkcti  IjIliDgwatdt, 
Mid  W  ertatet  Townih^ 


225 

528 

180 

70 

62 
266 
196 

69 

127 
61 
61 

2,231 

129 

81 

29 
135 
198 

82 
850 

727 
1,886 


92,951  15  6 


Bantil  in  1800. 


7,468  13 
2,722  10 

884 

305 

330 
3,227     3 
3,614     1 

1,527     1 

2,087 
3,390 
1,900 
1,490 
20,793  6 
2,013  13 

2,219 
850 

1,923  13 
2,876 

2,419 
5,316 

3,176  " 

17,941  10 


4 
4 


117,825 


AnuS^vA 

of  Pioueity 

inlSI& 


4,858 
8,753 


t 


23,S01 
2,353 
2,502} 
640 
1,980 
3,470 
2,201 
5,240 

4,909 
40,170 


*  Indadmg  Wee^ate  township.  f  Induded  in  St  John's.         ^  Betuined  in  Morpedi  Waid. 


Sio 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


-    Total... 


Total... 


} 


Wallsend  P,         ". 

W«UM9ld     - 

WiQiMgton 
Hdwdon  Pans ,  '    - ' 
^Tynemouth  p.  (a  part) 
High  Ward-'  1 

Hi^MidmeW^     U««h  Shield. 

Low  Middle  Ward     j 

Tynemouth         -     - 

Tjnemouth  East  Division 

CuSerooate 

Whitley      -  -      , 

Honkseaton 

Murton 

Chirton 

Preston 

ALh  Saints  p.  (a  part) 

Heaton 

Byker  -  -  r 

St,  Andrew's  p,  (a  part)    -    TotaL.. 

Induding  Jetnond  Townd^p. 

Total  East  Division... 


-    Total.. 


mmam 


TOWN  AND  ^OUNTV  OF  KBWCASTLEi 


<» ..  ■  ^ 


^i^"^^" 


^^1^ 


St,  Nicholas  p.     ^  -    Total.., 

.  All  Saints  cA.      - ,  r    Total... 

6t,  Andrew's  c^  -  -    Total... 

St.  JpHN*i»  cA«        •  -    Total,.. 

^i'otal  Newcastle.  .. 


mm^ 


TOWN  op  BERttkJk  UPO^  ITWEED, 


■..'.• 


^•^••^■■•T^-^i^"^"^^^^^ 


BfiftwiCK  UPON  Ti^EED  p.       Total... 

...  .       »  •• 


796 
1,338 

99 
7,684 


8,3S4 


2,847 

118 
180 
169 
169 
730 

137 

1,257 

260 

997 
218 


^ 


IB      ». 


16,535 


« 


pMrVIUte 


«,4t9 
6,232 

8,ll7 
2,355 


■p^ii^^*^^ 


15,185 


■« 


Poor*a  Rate 
In  1815. 


S,514 


82,111 

12J08 

8,815 

588 

31,212 

5,752 

9388 

483 
2,065 
2,764 

1,779 
6,088 

2,890 
8J14 
3,878 
4,836 
2,647 


Tl — TT 

54,576 


2 


17 
10 
10 
10 
15 


w^Miaa* 


122,207  11     4 


mm 


ReoCAl  la  IWO. 


«», 


Rental  ]d  1809; 


•Nf- 


52,182 


11,686 


20,685 

1,472 
1,800 

2,867 
3,260 
6,865 

3,497 
ia786 

2,285 
17.501 

3,386 


206,984 


Annual  Vd. 

.f  PMparty 

fnUl& 


24,281 
34,230 

17,2871 
15,842 


91,642 


Anmia^vS 

€f  Prapeity 

in  1815, 


■f— r 


30.8)13; 


«•  ■  v> 


«f  I \..» 


%*  PlBCt9.letaiied  extrchpaf^i^kki,  are  t(ie  fitaatlohs  of  religioas  houses  Dr  of  andaat  ^ftsdes^'the  owners  of 
which  did  not  permit  any  interference  with  their  autbori^  within  their  own  limits.  'Hence  an  extnu-panw 
chial  place  enjoys  a  virtuiJ  ^x^ptaeiii  frote  tifa^tainiiif  th^  poor^  because  there  is  no  ^oveneer  on  whom  a 
magistrate's  order  can  be  served— from  the  militia  laws^  beiititise  thetre  is  no  constidlde  to  xoake  returns-— 
firom  repairini^  the  highways,  because  there  is  no  surveyor ;  besides  all  which^  the  inhabitants  have  a  chance 


r 


■     f 


'.."I' 


S'-   .3i  J» . 


.  ti 


<      .'"  "    !■   / 


.  ;I 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


841 


The  following  is  the  rental  of  Northuinberlaiid^  as  returned  pursuant  to  an  order 
of  the  Easter  Sessions,  1822»  for  la}ning  on  a  rate  for  building  a  new  county  gaol  at 
Morpeth.    (Compare  this  with  page  183.) 

Glendale  Ward,  West  Divbion,            .         .  •  55,400  IS  5 

IKtto,  East  Division, 44,862  14  0 

Bambrough  Ward,  North  Divbion,     . .         . .  42,871  18  6 

Ditto,  South  Division,              42,776    4  2 

Coquetdale  Ward,  West  Division,       . .         . .  86,012  18  0 

Ditto,  East  Division 45,889    3  6 

Ditto,  North  Division,               59,743  13  0 

Ditto,  South  Division,               16,206  10  0 

Tindale  Ward,  North-west  Divisbn,               ..  60,148    0  0 

Ditto,  West  Divirion,               34,993    0  0 

Ditto,  South  Division,              ..         .•         ..  51,952    0  0 

Ditto,  East  Division,     ..         ..         ..         ..  67,783    0  0 

Ditto,  North-east  Division,       64,566    0  0 

Morpeth  Ward,  West  Division,          ,.         ..  44,783    4  4 

Ditto,  East  Division 49.097  14  8 

Castle  Ward,  East  IMvirion,                ..         ..  154,377    3  0 

Ditto,  West  Division,              98,005    5  9 

Grand  Total,        ...    ^949,418  16    4 
POOR'S  RATES, 

The  preceding  statements  shew  the  money  levied  as  poor  rates  in  each  parish  and 
township  in  1815.  In  the  Report  of  the  Select  Committee  of  the  House  of  Com* 
mons  on  Poor  Rate  Returns,  recently  printed,  it  is  stated,  that  in  the  year  ending 
SI5th  March,  1821,  the  sum  of  £84,185,  2*.  was  expended  for  tihe  relief  of  the  poor, 
and  £10,956,  8*.  for  other  purooses,  making  a  total  sum,  under  the  denomination  of 
poor  rates,  of  £95,141, 10*.  The  following  shews  also  the  money  expendal  for  the 
maintenance  of  the  poor  in  Northiunherland  dining  the  years  specified,  each  ending 
on  March  the  S5th. 

£.       *  £       s 

1819  ,..  72,821  5  1817  ...  88,777  10 

1814  ...  74,229  6  1818  ...  94,487  16 

1815  ...  69,235  15  1819  ...  92,740     0 

1816  ...  77,294  14  1820  ...  82,080  16 

There  are  in  this  county  82  select  vestries,  and  86  assistant  overseers. 
^  The  poor  rates  in  1780,  on  an  average  of  three  years,  were  £9,796.    In  the  year 
1776,  they  were  £14,085.    The  average  of  three  years,  endi^  Easter  1785,  waa 

of  esosping  fVom  direct  taxation  of  every  kind.    These  remarks  are  subjoined  to  an  Abstract  of  ParocUal 
Returns  made  to  Parliament  in  1805. 

Parishes  seem  originallj  to  have  been  of  the  same  extent  and  limits  as  the  several  manors,  because  when 
tythe,  between  the  ninth  and  tenth  century,  became  due,  or  was  given  to  the  church,  ^eiy  lord  of  a  munof 
Uppointed  his  own  clergyman,  and  gave  his  ty the  to  some  religioas  community, 

VOL,  I.~(ll)  9  P 


a4t  STATISTICAL  VIEW  OI^.NOKTHUMBERLAND. 

£  19^922 ;  but,  in  the  year  180S,  they  amoiinted  to  £58,416.    Thef  latest  retilriis  of  the 
fates  amoimt  to  nearly  10  per  cent,  on  the  rentaL* 

The  total  of  the  money  expended  for  the  mamtenancie  of  the  poor,  oil  the  aTerage 
of  the  years  1813,  1814,  and  1815,  appears  to  have  been  £  72,095,  being  about  £  5  9s. 
6d.  for  each  pauper. 

The  amount  of  the  money  expended  in  suits  of  law,  removals,  and  expenses  of  pa- 
rish officers,  in  these  years,  averages        £  4,920 — or  l-20th  part  of  the  money  raised. 
Do.  for  mUitia  purposes     2,460 — or  1^40th'  Do. 

Do.        for  all  other  purposes    17,148— or  l»6th  nearly  Do. 

Experience  shews  that  a  nse  or  fall  in  the  price  of  wheat  is  a(:xK)mpanied  by  a  rise 
or  fall  in  the  amount  of  the  poor  rates ;  but  tiiis  variaticHi  has  not  at  present  occurred 
in  Northmnberland.  Considering  the  low  price  of  provisions,  the  rates  in  1821  seem 
to  have  been  proiportionably  higner  than  m  1818,  when  the  rates  were  nominally 
greatest. 

The  progressive  increase  of  these  rates  in  England,  has  excited  much  alarm,  and 
various  schemes  have  been  suggested  for  amending  the  poor  laws.  It  has  even 
been  seriously  proposed  to  fix  a  maximum  for  the  rates ;  but  most  of  these  expedients 
are  opposed  to  every  principle  of  justice,  humanity,  and  sound  policy.  It  is,  how- 
ever, nonourable  to  the  character  of  Englishmen,  that  they  have  evinced  ho  partiality 
for  doubtful  experiments  affecting  the  hves  and  comforts  of  their  indigent  country- 
men. :Xbe  poor  laws^  says  Blackstone,  are  fouxided  on  the  very  principles  of  dvil 
society^  Wnen  the  landls  became  property,  they  carried  with  them  the  charge  of  pro* 
vidizvg  tor  those  who  had  no  land,  when  they  were  in  want  of  the  means  of  subsist* 
ence«  While  the  mass  of  the  people  were  vassals,  the  proprietors  of  land  took  care 
of  them  ;  but  when  Christianity  wa^s  introduced,  each  proprietor  gave  a  tenth  part  of 
the  produce  of  his  estate  to  the  churdi,  one-fourth  of  which  tythe  was  aporopriated 
to  the  support  and  assistance  of  the  poor.  When  Henry  VIIl«  suppressed  the  mo- 
nastries,  and  confiscated  their  property,  the  poor  were  roobed  of  their  ancient  rights, 
and  left  without  any  provision.  This  compelled  Queen  Elizabeth  to  impose  poor- 
rates  on  all  occupiers  of  houses  and  lands,  which  act  guaranteed  the  peace  and  happi- 
ness of  Englandr  and  exempts  her  population  from  afl  the  dreadful  ravages  of  famme, 
pestilence,  a|\d  rebeUions  of  tlie  belly .f 

• 

•  The  total  amount  of  pMr  ra^*  in  England  mid  Wal«),  in  1750,  was  790,1351^  kl  177^  hlM^lGt.;  in 
laOB,  M48,£04/: ;:  la  191S,  8,640,843/.;.  in  1818,  9,320^40/.;  an0  in  tbe  jfwr  endkig  Mveh  d5th,  18S1« 
8y4ll,893/. 


t'Pariflhes  in  the  northern  counties  average  seven  or  eight  times  the  area  of  those  in  the  southern  counties. 
Being,  ^therefore,  too  large  for  the  due  administration  of  the  poor-laws,  in  the  13th  year  of  Charles  II.  a  law 
was  passed  permitting  townQhips  and  villages  to  maintain  their  own  poor.  The  arrangement  of  townships 
under  their  several  pariabes  originated  in  Northumberiand,  being  effected  in  1777  by  the  late  John  David- 
son, esq.  Clerk  of  the  Peace  foe  this  county,    . 


POPULATION  OP  THE  CXJUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND,, 

tK  TME  YEAR  ISil: 

I^The  following  statement  is  taken  from  tb«  Abstract  ef  Five-  Hundred  and  Thirty-four  Etramefation  Returns 
sent  from  this  t»unty,  pursuant  to  an  Act  pasted  in  the  First  Year  of  the  Reign  of  his  Majesty  King  George 
IV.  commonly  called  tfie  Population  Act»  and  ordcnid  by  fiie  House  of  €oinmoiM  to  be  printed  2d  July» 
1822.  As  many  of  the  parishes  are  situate  in  iwo  different  Wardjs,  the  totals  of  each  {larish  are  not  always 
given^  but  will  be  indoded  in  the  topographical  description  of  the  parishes.]] 


^ 


i#Mito 


Glendale  Ward^^JT.  Divman. 

Carham  p.  - 
Branxton  p. 

KiRKNEWTON  P. 

Akeld 

Coldsmouth  and  Thompson's  Wells 
Copeknd    - 
Crookhouse 
Grey's  FcN'est 
Heathpool 
Howtall      - 
Kilham       -     ^  ^ 
Kirknewton 
Lanton       -        * 
Milfield       . 
Newton  West     * 
Paston        -        * 
Selby's  Forest     * 
Yevering.    - 
Ford  p.         -       • 


I^T^i^W?; 


Homes. 


Glendale  Ward 

LOWICK  p.      -    .     - 

Doddington 

Barl 

Swart 

HumHeton 

Kesbitt 

WOOLEE  p. 
CBAfTTOH  F. 


-JS7.  Division. 


S40 

47 

27 
7 

16 
2 

7 
6 

87 
40 
IS 
14 
48 
15 
31 
8 
12 
352 


922 


MalM. 


- 


346 

88 
9 

27 

S9 

11 

315 

274 


644 
122 

72 
23 
51 
11 
31 
22 
94 

116 

43 

S3 

124 

47 

100 

38 

32 

896 


2,499 


914 


Femal«. 


726 
131 

95 
21 
47 
7 
23 
20 
96 

ISO 
40 
36 

135 
48 

109 
25 
82 

911 


TotaL 


2i682 


885 


194 

225 

34 

26 

65 

85 

78 

106 

31 

21 

845 

985 

744 

716 

«<* 


1,370 
253 

167 
44 

98 

18 

54 

42 

190 

246 

88 

69 

259 

95 

209 

63 

64 

1,807 


5,131 


1,799 

419 

60 

150 

184 

52 

1,830  , 

1,460  I 


344 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


Chillinoham  p. 
Chillingham 
Hebbum    - 
Newton 


Bambnmgk  Ward.- 

Bambeough  p. 
Adderston 
Bambrougfa 
Bambrough  Castle 
Bradford     - 
Beadnell     • 
Budle 
Burton 
Elford 
Fleetham 
Glororum 


-iV.  Dhisicn. 


Hoppen 
liucker  ck. 

Mowson 
Newham    -        «. 

Newstead 

Outchester 

Batchwood 

Shoston 

Spindleston 

Sunderl^d,  North 

Swinhoe 

Tugg^I      -       - 

Waxenton 
Warrenford 
Belford  p, 
Belford 
Detchant 
Easington 
Easingtpn  Grange 
Elwick 
Middleton 

^apibraugh  Ward,- 

^j.l;kgham  t. 
Charlton,  North 


'S.  JOiviwm. 


Houf» 

Mikt. 

PaDDllCi. 

Tool 

SO 

78 

68 

146 

19 

45 

48 

98 

18 

60 

57 

117 

1,176 

8,088 

8,222 

6,810 

59 

126 

181 

842 

88 

159 

188 

842 

8 

12 

50 

62 

8 

21 

27 

48 

55 

89 

124 

218 

16 

45 

54 

99 

16 

47 

88 

85 

21 

65 

66 

181 

17 

47 

47 

94 

9 

22 

24 

46 

T 

10 

19 

29 

88 

89 

105 

194 

18 

84 

89 

78 

50 

149 

149 

298 

19 

44 

46 

90 

18 

5a 

56 

109 

2 

5 

5 

10 

10 

80 

88 

68 

21 

50 

47 

97 

126 

268 

808 

566 

19 

51 

60 

111 

17 

87 

48 

85 

21 

64 

64 

128 

7 

15 

12 

27 

182 

684 

574 

1,208 

25 

71 

57 

128 

42 

98 

98 

186 

10 

27 

2T 

54 

18 

88 

40 

78 

12 

82 

47 

79 

944 

2,452 

2,618 

5,070 

42 

122 

108 

290 

NORTHUMBEBLAND. 


24ft 


Charlton,  South 

ChathiU 

Ditchbum  .        .        .        i. 

Doxfotd 

Elliiigham  .... 

Preston       -        -        -        -        - 
Shipley       -        -        .    •   - 
Howie  K  p.     -        -        -        -        - 

EkBLETON  p. 

Broxfield  ...'.* 
Bmnton  *  .  .  -  - 
Cmster  -  -  ^  -  - 
Dunston  ••.«>» 
Embleton  .  •  .  • 
Fallowdon  -  .  -  . 
Newton  .  .  ,  -  - 
.  Rennington  ch.  ^  m^ 
Booked.  -  .  *  -  -  .  - 
Btamford 

l^OK0HOUOfiTOK  p. 

Boomer  jaiid  Seeton  House 
Houghton,  Littie        ,       .       - 
Houghton,  Long        ... 

|L*S6BU&T  w. 

Alemouth  -        -        -        - . 

JiLiesbury  (md  HawkhUl 

Coquetdoie  Ward.^-'E.  Division. 
Alnwick  p.  .       .       -       - 

SHlI.BOTTi.£  p. 

£ruizanoe  ex.  p.  ... 

Hazon        .-.--- 
Ifewton  oil  the  Moor 
Shilbotde  ^        .        .        . 

Whitde      .        .        .        -        - 
•  Woodhouse        ,.--»- 
Wa&kworth  p, 
Birling       -       *        •        ^        - 
Brotharksk  .        •        «        * 

Buston,  High     *       • 
Burton,  Low      •       *        ^       . 
Sturtoa  ivrange  ,       .       . 

VOL,  !•  S  Q 


flPTirrr;! 

Mal«^ 

Fonalei. 

TotaL 

Hoatm. 

81 

88 

87 

170 

5 

11 

16 

27 

17 

46 

51 

97 

13 

22 

82 

54 

51 

127 

ISO 

257 

12 

29 

84 

68 

28 

74 

55 

120 

45 

106 

128 

284 

4 

15 

18 

28 

16 

.88 

82 

70 

24 

75 

71 

146 

42 

107 

106 

218 

94 

210 

208 

418 

20 

52 

60 

112 

.   48 

120 

127 

247 

60 

128 

J44 

272 

88 

92 

98 

185 

21 

58 

67 

120 

7 

50 

54 

104 

18 

85 

49 

77 

64 

245 

224 

469 

90 

170 

286 

1 

406 

108 

288 

288 

576 

998 

2,298 

2,401 

4,699 

828 

2,678 

8,254 

5,929 

8S 

86 

87 

1T8 

17 

51 

48 

90 

47 

117 

127 

wv 

108 

259 

289 

548 

16 

25 

89 

64 

5 

15 

10 

25 

16 

45 

24 

69 

1 

6 

4 

10 

17 

46 

49 

95 

17 

40 

45 

85 

'   14 

87 

85 

7a' 

M« 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


Walk  Mill          .        .  .  - 

Acton  and  Old  Felton 

Elyhaugh           •        .  .  . 

Felton 

Green  and  Glantlees 

Swarland    •        .        .  •  . 
LongfraMlington  o.  ch. 
Brinkbum,  High  Ward 
Brinkbum,  Liow  Ward 
Lfongframlington 

Coqm^dale  Ward.^N.  DhUiom. 

Eglingbeam  p. 

Sassington          •        •  •  . 

Beanly        .        .        .  «  . 

Bewick,  New      -        -  -  - 

Bewick,  Old       .        •  .  . 

Brandon      .        •        .  .  . 

Branton      .        .        .  .  . 

Crawly       .        ^        .  .  - 

Eglingbam          «        •  •  . 

BSrehppe            «        •  .  . 

Hedgely 

Lilbum,  East      «.        .  .  . 

Lilbum,  West    -        -  -  - 

TitUngton           .        .  .  . 

Wooperton         -        -  .  • 

&DLINGHAM  P. 


Bolton 
*  Broompark 
Edlingnam 
Learcnild 
Ijemmington 

tLDERTON  p. 

nderton 
Middletbn  Hall 
Middletbn,  North 
Middleton,  South 
Roddam 
Rosedon     • 


iSSEnea 
Hoium. 


90 
4 
96 
18 
89 

86 

8 

107 


Miki. 


1,489 


4 

SO 

17 
41 
20 
16 

4 
85 

9 
8 

17 
84 
18 
11 

S4 

27 
7 

80 
5 

27 

I 

24 

12 
25 
11 

19 
14 


50 

5 

265 

85 
108 

99 

29 

264 


4,255 


5 

74 

40 

128 

57 
52 
10 
94 
20 
16 

47 
81 
80 
87 

65 

71 
18 

98 
17 
61 

75 
81 
68 
88 
44 
86 


8 

41 

8 

289 

41 

108 

98 

26 

299 


4,929 


7 
86 
53 
124 
61 
59 
18 
90 
26 
20 
50 
90 
44 
81 

60 
78 
25 
108 
18 
62 

82 
80 
60 
.86 
46 
88 


T«iaL 


18 

91 
18 

554 
76 

211 

197 

55 

568 


9,184 


12 

160 

98 

247 

118 

111 

28 

184 

46 

86 

97 

171 

74 

68 

125 
lU 


201 

90 

US 

157 

61 

128 

69 
90 
74 


N0RTHUMBSI12LANIX 


147 


Fawdon,  Clinch,  and  Hartside     - 
Ingram,  Linhope,  &  Greenside  Hill 
Reavdy      -       -        .        -        - 
Whittingham  p, 
Callalj  and  Yedingtoii 
Glanton      -        «        -        -        - 
Lorbottl^  •        i.        .        . 

Ryal,  Gfeat  .  ^  .  . 
Ryal,  Little  .... 
Snawdon  -  -  w  .  -  . 
Whittingham     .... 

Coquetddle  Ward. — W.  JDimum. 

ROTHBUEV*  p. 

Bickerton  -        -        -        - 

Caistron 

Caitington        .  . 

Debdon 

Fallowlees  .... 

Flotterton  .... 

Hollinghill         -       -       -       - 
Hepple       .     •  -        -  .      - 
Hepple  Demesne        ... 
Hesley  Hnrst     .... 
Lee  Ward  -        -        - 

Mount  Healey  j       .        . 

Newtown  -       -    ,    - 

Faperhaugk        .-      • 
Raw  -        •        -        - 

Rothbury  t       •»       • 

Ryehm  .  .  •  .  - 
Snitter  ..... 
Thropton  «*.       4     "  - 

Tosson,  Great     - .      •.    '  * 
Tosson,  Little     *        -        ... 
Trewhit»  High  and  Low .   - 
Warton      -      '- 
Whitton     -       ^        .       . 
Wreighill         ;  .        .       ... 


linr^r.rrr.i 

MalM. 

Fcnudei. 

Total. 

HOIMM. 

15 

86 

44 

1 

« 

80 

11 

85 

39 

74 

11 

84 

40 

74 

6a 

182 

181 

363 

80 

2S1 

247 

474 

19 

50 

50 

100 

16 

57 

42 

99 

9 

29 

19 

48 

16 

41 

86 

77 

117 

277 

311 

588 

882 

2,406 

2,525 

4,981 

4 

12 

• 

6 

18 

8 

18 

25 

48 

17 

SO 

.  *9 

79 

8 

9 

9 

18 

1 

2 

1 

3 

15 

85 

57 

92 

24 

75 

55 

130 

19 

54 

57 

111 

8 

17 

28 

45 

9 

19 

87 

46 

18 

50 

43 

93 

8 

28 

15 

88 

8 

31 

25 

56 

15 

>'  42' 

38 

80 

8 

27 

24 

51 

148 

413 

478. 

891 

8 

27 

22 

49 

.  30 

79 

81 

160 

89 

76 

.'  82 

156 

20 

55 

55 

110 

7 

17 

19 

36 

20 

62 

55 

117 

8 

22 

24 

46 

22 

48 

67 

110 

8 

15 

14 

29 

a 

35 

27 

62 

f4« 


STATISTICAL  VmW  0F 


Alwikton  p. 

Alwinton  ... 

JBiddlestoii  ^        -        • 

Burradon 

lOlennell      -        .        -        . 

Fairhafugh  ... 

Fdrnhfum    .... 

Linbrigg    -        .        •        . 

NethertoQ,  North  Side 

NethertQH,  Sout^  Side 

Peels  .... 

Sharperton  ..        «        . 

Holystone  p.  ch. 

fifura  .... 

Dues  Hill  .        •        - 

Holystone  ... 

Karbottle  >»        ^        . 

X>insheels  ... 

Coquetdale  W^rd,^-^.  Divitm. 

Elsdon  p, 
ilj^lsdon  Ward 
Monkri^ge  Do« 
OtterbuTQ  Do.    ^ 
Rochestw  Do.    * 
Trouffhend  Do, 
Woodside  Do.    • 

RaHSHOPE  jM.  p. 


Tindaie  Wait4^ 

Haltwhiatle  p. 
iBdlister      « 
BlenkinM3 
(CdrnwoM 
deatherfttone 
HaltwluMle 
Hartley  Bum 
Ji^nshaw 
Milkridj|6 
Plenmeuer 
Itidley        .      • 
"SSiirlwaM    - 
Thomgrafton 


W.  DiviMm. 


• 

Faaulet. 

TotsL 

Houses. 

Iifdei. 

19 

59 

47 

106 

80 

«7 

79 

166 

ftS 

89 

90 

ITO 

4 

11 

16 

srr 

1 

4 

4 

8 

7 

«1 

15 

86 

11 

87 

83 

70 

8 

SS 

21 

A4 

10 

88 

S8 

n 

11 

86 

m 

16 

£1 

49 

58- 

mr 

2 

8 

• 

9 

17 

S 

20 

£1 

41 

30 

63 

69 

^88 

,      85 

74 

107 

m 

18 

56 

42 

97 

721 

1,967 

2,0f« 

4^38 

57 

155 

144 

290 

17 

61 

48 

1B9 

75 

189 

199 

S6B 

97 

269 

^ts 

401 

57 

212 

IM 

«97 

29 

88 

W 

164 

1 

4 

41 

.  7 

888 

978 

877 

1,855 

28 

59 

59 

118 

50 

155 

162 

817 

81 

T5 

90 

165 

4& 

180 

109 

289 

185 

826 

881 

707 

IT 

45 

■    '47 

^ 

^m    ^V  \^^^ 

m 

296 

^ 

■     45- 

148 

-140 

268 

81 

84 

100 

184 

45 

118 

118 

eoi 

4& 

157 

IM 

898 

51 

115 

182 

247 

NOETHUMBERLAND. 


U9 


HOtttM. 

MalM. 

Femalea. 

Total 

Walltown           •        -        .        . 

15 

62 

47 

109 

KlKKHAUGH  P 

54 

127 

15» 

286 

KnaresdaIiE  p.     «       .       .       . 

114 

293 

271 

564 

LuMTiEY  p.                 .          .          .          - 

42 

125 

186 

261 

Whitfield  p.       .        .        -        . 

47 

152 

187 

289 

906 

2,468 

2,520 

4,988 

Tmdale  Ward.^N.  W.  Division. 

r 

SlMONBUJUK  P. 

Houghtdn           .... 

23 

64 

68 

127 

SiiDonbuni          •        .        .        . 

95 

278 

291 

569 

Humshaugh  di.           ^        .        . 

63 

162 

178 

886 

Bellinoham  p. 

Bellingham          .... 

79 

186 

218 

404 

Charlton,  East  Quarter 

27 

67 

76 

143 

Charlton^  West  Quarter 

41 

82 

105 

1S7 

Leemailing  Ditto        ... 

49 

183 

152 

•      285 

The  Nook  Ditto         -        - 

19 

61 

52. 

113 

Tairett  Bum  Ditto     - 

47 

184 

180 

264 

Falstone  p. 

Palstone,  Plashets,  and  Wellhaugh 

85 

246 

255 

501 

Gebystead  p. 

•              • 

Chirdon      -        •• 

12 

46 

87 

88 

Smalesbttm         *        -        .      .  « 

26. 

89 

-  ''* 

168 

TllQENE YBtmN  P^ 

- 

•      « 

' 

Tarset,  WflBt       .        .        .        , 

31 

85 

84 

169 

Thomeybum      w        -        ^        - 

89 

93 

-96 

189 

^AEK  p. 

• 

* 

ShitlingtoBu  High  Quarter 

14 

50 

84 

104 

ShJttlingtQiu  Lev  Qutrta* 

19 

62 

48 

1#5 

Wark  Quarter    ♦ 

78. 

177 

490 

'    807 

Warksbuvn  Town 

54 

151 

189 

206 

Wahdek  P.» 

~ 

_ 

Brokenhtugh  Qetarter 

26 

63 

92 

155 

Pean  Roir  Quarter     « 

126 

266 

269 

6Z6 
9U 

Haydon  eh.         -        - 

54- 

192 

166 

lipwood  Quarteir        ^        - 
Warden  Town            ... 

105- 

258 

«37 

526 

90 

288 

a6o 

498 

• 

1,286' 

3,391 

3,529 

6,gjo 

Ttnaaie  trattL — A\  Dtfnsum.- 

9 

Hsxham  p; 

m 

• 

Ilcadiam    -        •<        .        .      - , 

511- 

1,801 

2.815 

4vll6 

'  mximm\iSBce,  High  Qit«rter      ■ 

-    45- 

143 

186 

279 

TQL.  I.                                                            3  K 

450 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OP 


f  Low  Quarter 
2i  J  Middle  Ditto,  North 
"g:a  1  Middle  Ditto,  South 
W       I  West  Quarter 
St,  John  Lee  p. 
Accmb,  West     - 
Anick         •        .        .        . 
Anick  Grange    - 
Binfffield    .        .        •        . 
Cofiw     -        .        .        . 
Hallington 

Fortffate  •  •  .  . 
San(moe  .  •  «  . 
WaU  .        .        -        . 

Fallowfield 

ALiLENDALE  p.     *  * 


Wardn-^E.  Division. 

OVINGHAM  p. 

Dukeshagg  ... 
Eltringham  ... 
HarlowhiU 

Hedley       .... 
Hedley  Woodside 
Horsely       .... 
Mickl^      .        .        . 
Nafierton  ... 

Ovinffham  ... 

Ovinlton  -       -       - 

Prud!hoe     .        «        .        . 
Prudhoe  Castle 
Rutchester  ... 

(Spittle        -      ^. 
Welton       .... 
Whittle      .... 
Wylam      .... 

COSBRIDGS  p. 

Aydon        .  .       «.        » 

Aydon  Castle  - 

Closewood 

Corliridge  -   -   - 

Dilston   .  «   -   • 


Inbalntod 


8& 

se 

113 
38 

7 
16 

87 
25 
6 
42 
87 
19 
790 


1,934 


MalM. 


286 
85 

91 
125 

255 
70 
22 
52 
98 

62 
15 
88 
286 
42 
2,430 


5,851 


1 
10 
25 
41 

8 
52 

89 

9 

52 

81 

65 

12 

6 

1 

18 

6 

148 

19 

6 

11 

280 

21 


5 

28 

68 

75 

88 

122 

90 

20 

134 

178 

184 

48 

15 

2 

85 

17 
878 

51 

17 

35 

613 

76 


PonalM. 


Told. 


210 

88 

88 

118 

278 
96 
21 
59 

101 
67 
18 
92 

229 
51 

S,199 


6,166 


446 
ITS 

179 
248 

533 
166 

43 
111 
199 
129 

38 
180 
465 

98 
4,629 

12,017 


4 

24 
61 
98 


185 
88 
19 

181 

189 

159 

86 

16 


15 
855 

43 
14 

27 
641 

>'  86 


9 

52 

124 

168 

55 

257 

178 

89 
265 
862 
298 

79 

81 

8 

67 

82 

726 

94 

31 

62 

1,254 

162 


NORTHUMBERLAND- 


S51 


Halton       -        -        •*        .     .  . 

Halton  Shields  -        -        • 

Thomborough    .        *        -        . 

Whittington,  Great    -        -     .  . 

Whittington,  Little    -        -     -  - 
Bywell  St.  Petee's  p.  * 

Aoomb,  East       -        -        .     .  . 

Broomley  -        .        -        - 

Bywell  St  A,  and  8t  P.     - 

Espershidds  and  Millshidd 

Potherly,  High 

HeaUy 

Newton      --..-- 

Newton  Hall      -        -        -        - 

Newlands  .        i.        .        . 

Stelling 

Wittonstall  cA. 
Bywell  St.  Andrew's  p. 

Bearl 

Broomhaugh       .        .        .        . 

Riding        .        •        .        -        . 

^Stocksfield  Hall 

Styford 

Shotley  p. 

Blanchland,  High,  ch. 

Newbiggin  -        -        - 

Shotley 

Slaley  p.     -        -        -        -        - 
Heddon  on  the  Wall;  p. 

Eachwick,  part  -        -     .  - 

Houffhton  and  Close  House 

Heddon  on  the  Wall 

Heddon,  West  -        -        - 

Whitchester        .        .        -        - 
Newburn  p. 

Dalton        -        -        -        - 

Tindak  Ward.^N.  E.  Division. 

BoLAM  p. 
Belsay 

Bradford  -   -   -   -   • 
Hamham     -   -   -   - 


nr^rrr^ 


MidM. 


FoDoalM. 


TotaL 


14 

12 
14 
40 

4 

a 

57 
S6 

27 
15 
10 
21 
21 
SI 
3 
24 

11 
84  i 
23 
4 
18 

90 

15 

94 

122 

24 
28 

7a 

8 
12 

26 


1.751 


80 
89 
39 
118 
10 

25 

187 
81 

88 
46 
86 
55 
40 
80 
5 
78 

80 

57 
67 
10 

S6 

207 

30 

311 

808 

74 

48 

184 

17 
31 

60 


4,580 


40 

88 

35 

111 

9 

I  86 
167 

98 
98 
46 
83 
50 

49 

74 

7 
68 

36 

59 
68 
13 
33 

jeo5 

39 
898 

880 

59 
58 
178 
81 
86 

68 


60 

8 

16 


175 
86 
89 


4,538 


158 
88 
38 


60 

57 

74 

224 

19 

51 
354 
174 
180 

98 

49 
105 

89 
154 

18 

146 

56 

116 

135 

88 

69 

418 

69 

609 

588 

180 
100 
368 

S9 
57 

188 
9,086 


387 
48 
61 


Mi 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


* 
• 

wBUnrnKa 

Hottief. 

MidM. 

Fcmalei. 

Total. 

Shortfleefc            .... 

5 

9 

18 

as 

KiaKWHELMNGTOK  P. 

Bavington,  Great        .        .        - 

15 

84 

40 

74 

Capheaton           .... 

48 

108 

117 

225 

Catehernde         .        -        -        - 

S 

8 

7 

15 

Coldwell 

1 

3 

4 

7 

Crogdon     ..... 

1 

4 

2 

6 

Fawns        -        -        -        -        . 

1 

8 

5 

8 

Harle,  Little       «... 

8 

88 

26 

48 

Harle,  West       .... 

18 

81 

88 

64 

Kirkwhelpington         ... 

63. 

186 

141 

297 

Whelpington,  West 

11 

86 

88 

69 

TmtOCKEINGTON  F, 

- 

Bavington,  Tiittlfe        ... 

15 

87 

41 

78 

Carey  Coates       «... 

a 

84 

26 

50 

Sweethope           -        -        .        . 
Throckrmgton    *        .. 

4 

11 

14 

85 

8 

28 

25 

48 

Chollb&ton  p. 

■ 

Barrasfotd           .... 

42- 

102 

91 

198 

Broomh<^  and  Buteland 

15 

40 

47 

-  -  -     — 

87 

Chollerton           -        ^        - 

25 

77 

-  72 

149 

Colwell  and  Swinbum 

78- 

197 

206 

408- 

Gunnerton  and  Chipchase 

71 

191 

218 

409 

KiRKHAELE  P, 

Hawick 

8 

19 

10 

29 

Kirkharle            .... 

8a 

90 

102 

199 

Kirkheaton  ch.    ^ 

S8 

68 

77 

140 

Hartbuen  p. 

« 

• 

Cambo        .        .        .        ,        • 

82 

46 

55 

101 

Deanham            *        *.        - 

9^ 

25 

28 

58 

Famlaws    *        •        .... 

fl 

4 

12 

16 

Greenligbtdn      «       w       .        « 

8 

19 

18  , 

87 

Hartingt(Hi         .... 

10 

26 

8ft 

55 

Hartington  Hall         .        .        « 

7- 

81 

24 

45 

Harewood           •        .        .        . 

6 

27 

12 

89 

S^afto,  East 

ft. 

15 

20 

85 

Shafto,  West      .        •        • 

9 

28 

26 

54 

Wallington  Demesne 

■    48. 

104. 

.  im 

808 

Stamfordham  p. 

* 

Bifcnhfield            •        -        •        • 

7. 

20 

19 

88 

Black  Heddon    -        -        «        « 

-    16. 

29 

.84 

••                     • 

68 

Cheesebuin  Grao^     *        *        • 

19. 

49 

5? 

in 

NOKTHUMBEBLAND. 


S5S 


Fenwick     - 

Hawkwdl 

Heugh 

Ingo 

Kearsley     - 

Matfen^  East 

Matfen,  West 

Nesbitt 

Ouston 

Ryal 

W  allridge 

CORSEKSIDE  P* 
BiBTLE Y  p.  ch. 


Morpeth  Ward.^^E.  Divisicn. 

Waekwoeth  p. 
Amble        ... 
Acklington 
Addington  Park 
BuUock's  Hall    . 
Chevington^  East 
Chevington^  West 
Gloster  Hill 
Hauxley     .        «        . 
Hadstone 

Morrick  .  .  , 
Togston  .  .  • 
Warkworth 

WOODHORN  P. 

Cresswell  .  -  . 
Ellington 

Hurst         -        .        - 
linmouth 
Newbiggin 
North  Seaton 
Woodhom  -        - 

Woodhom  Demesne 
Widdrington  p.  ch,     « 
Pelton  p. 
Bockenfield        »        n 
Eshott 
Thirston  bnd  Shothaugh 


HOOMi. 

MllM. 

Pandet. 

Totad. 

IS 

38 

88 

76 

81 

70 

66 

186 

^4 

262 

250 

512 

45 

115 

124 

289 

S 

7 

4 

11 

27 

80 

72 

152 

65 

150 

157 

807 

6 

21 

17 

88 

8 

17 

15 

82 

21 

54 

64 

118 

1 

2 

1 

8 

84 

254 

288 

487 

85 

180 

218 

898 

1,197 

8.154 

3,240 

6,894 

49 

88 

109 

297 

58 

187 

182 

269 

17 

75 

50 

i;k5 

8 

7 

7 

14 

89 

104 

108 

207 

21 

50 

58 

108 

5 

14 

17 

81 

26 

55 

59 

114 

17 

86 

52" 

88 

12 

41 

81 

72 

16 

46 

56 

102 

99 

277 

817 

594 

46 

167 

186 

808 

51 

181 

124 

255 

9 

20 

22 

42 

4 

11 

11 

22 

82 

221 

218 

484 

82 

76 

88 

159 

81 

76 

79 

155 

2 

4 

4 

8 

78 

208 

280 

988 

24 

58 

49 

107 

28 

60 

54 

114 

58 

158 

172 

8S5 

TOL,  I. 


8  S 


m 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


sr 


.  Intiabitu 
I   HouMi. 


Ashingtoh  and  Sheepwash 
BothaO  Demesne 
Longhurst  .        .        - 

OldMoop 

Pegsworth  ... 

Ulgham  P'  ch.       ^        '        ' 

MarpetA  Ward. — W.  Divution. 

Haiitbuen  p. 
Angerton,  High 
Angerton,  Low 
Corridge     -        -        -        - 

Harthum  -       -       - 

Hartbum  Grange 

High  Laws         .        -        • 

Longwitton         -        -        - 

Middleton,  NopUi 

Middl^ton,  South 

Rothely      -        -        -        -^ 

Thornton,  East 

Thornton,  West 

Tedridro    -        -        -        - 

THiitriage  -        •        -, 

€k>at  or  Coalyards        ^       ^ 
Ousley        -        -        .        - 
Kealey  and  Comb  Hall 
Nethefwitton     .- 
NunnJkirk  -        .        i* 

Riton  Coltoaik 
Kiton  White  House 

tiONGHOESLEY  P. 

Bigge  or  Carlisk^s  Quarter 
Fi-eeholders'  Do* 
Riddle's  Do. 

Jongshaws         -        -        ^ 
'Stanton      -        -        - 
Todbum 


Wingates 
Witton^ehida 
MiTFom)  >. 
Benridge<    • 


8 
42 
86 
11 
27 
70 


Maid. 


986 


2S 
88 
77 
39 
76 
154 


FcmdM. 


27 
110 

99 
40 

79 
194 


TotiL 


2,572 


^ 


15 

12 

4 

4 

15 

S 

26 

18 

4 

26 

9 

7 

1 

2 

S 
4 
6 

60 
8 

15 
5 

51 
22 
50 

6 
31 

3 
34 

7 

12 


2;sg7 


50 
196 
176 

79 
155 
848 


5,289 


45 
84 
18 
11 
32 
12 
75 
85 
13 
78 

87 

20 

8 

2 

7 
12 
25 
188 
7 
81 
12 

128 
^0 

102 
20 
86 
15 
88 
9 


42 
41 

9 
12 
86 
15 
74 
40 
18 

77 
24 


■ 


8 

7 
14 

la 


n 

1A4 
5» 

104 
18 
82 
10 
94 
12 

2ft 


87 
75 

27 


68 
27 

149 
75 
81 

150 

61 

48 

8 

10 

14 

26 
43 

277 
18 
64 
28 

262 


r 


206 
88 

168 
25 

177 

57 


NORTHUMBERLAND. 


SK 


•  jTi.'ni::??-.! 

ToiaL 

V 

Hoqwii 

Maki. 

Fcoudei. 

HeighlTf  High  and  haw     «       - 
Mitford 

17 
•34 

85 
91 

41 
87 

76 
'     178 

Newton  Park      -        -       *        - 

8 

9 

6 

15 

Newton  Underwood 

18 

87 

88 

75 

Nunriding          .       •        •        . 

8 

80 

19 

89 

Pigdon       ^        ^       ^       i,        ^ 

7 

14 

88 

86 

Sh^^                  -        .        .        . 
Tnropple    -  .     .        . 

a 

5 

4 

9 

13 

84 

41 

75 

BOLAM  p. 

1 

Bolam 

10 

88 

83 

55 

Bolam  Vicarage          ... 

3 

8 

6 

14 

ftallowHill        - 

11 

35 

89 

74 

.Pelton  v.  (a  part) 
Brinkbum,  South  Side 

■ 

* 

5 

14 

11 

85 

Hbbbukkjd.  ch^ 
Causey  Park       -        -        • 

' 

19 

46 

48 

88 

Cockle  Park       .... 

11 

86 

31 

57 

Earsdon      -        -        •        « 

17 

47 

47 

94 

Earsdon  Forest           «       «       . 

7 

15 

19 

84 

Fenruther          •       .       *       «. 

80 

50 

49 

99 

Hebburn    -        - 

17 

58 

41 

9S 

TrithngtOQ         -       -        -       - 

80 

49 

fiO 

99 

Morpeth  p. 

• 

• 
1 

Bullersgreen       «       ^       «.       . 
M<npem  Borough       .        «        . 

87 

118 

148 

855 

458 

1,576 

1,889 

8,415 

• 

1,180 

9,476 

8,793 

7,963 

Castie  Wwd.^^W.  Division. 

m   ^    ^^ 

PONTKT.AKD  P. 

» 

p .  . 

Berwick  Hill      - 

19 

m 

44 

iii 

Brenkley    .        *        .        «        - 

7 

19 

18 

87 

CallertoD,  High           -        «        - 

85 

53 

51 

104 

Callerton,  Low            ^       ^        ^ 

8 

9 

18 

1        81 

Cbldcoote            -        •      *^ 

7 

83 

8t 

45 

Darria  Hall         •       i.       «       • 

8 

6 

6 

18 

Dinnington        .       •       *       . 

48 

98 

107 

805 

Higham  Dykes           -        «     i  . 

4 

18 

10 

83 

Horton  Grange           ... 

11 

36 

80 

66 

Kirkley      -       .        .       •        . 

88 

75 

71 

146 

Mason        .       .       .       •       . 

81 

65 

63 

187 

Milburn 

17 

48 

40 

88 

MUbum  Grange         •       *       . 

7 

17 

15 

88 

Pontekoid          .... 

74 

166 

198 

858 

S56 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


Frestwick 

Riversgreen  er.  p. 
Whalton  p, 

Kewham     - 

O^le 

Riplington 

Whalton    - 
BoLAM  p.  (a  part) 

Trewick 

NSWBUBN  p. 

Black  Callerton 
Butterlaw 
•    Denton,  East 
Denton,  Westf    - 
Dissington,  North 
Dissington,  South 
Newbigghi 
Kewbum 
Newbum  Hall 
Sugley 

Throckley 
WaUbottte 

Whorlton,  E.  and  W. 
Wokingham 

MOEPETH  p. 

Newminster  Abbey    - 
Shilvinffton 

Tranwdl  and  High  Church 
TwizeU      . 
Stannikqton  p. 
Blagdon      -        «        - 
East  Division     - 
North  and  West  Do. 
Plessy  and  Shotton     - 

MiTFORD  p. 

Eadington 

Molesdon 
Meldon  p.  .        - 

Heddok  ok  the  Wall  p. 

Eachwick,  part 

Heddon.  Bast     * 


^^ 

HOOM. 

MdH. 

PandM. 

IMd. 

S9 

75 

80 

155 

8 

84 

87 

51 

18 

89 

87 

76 

SI 

78 

76 

148 

6 

11 

14 

85 

67 

188 

147 

885 

6 

89 

81 

50 

86 

89 

84 

178 

4 

15 

18 

88 

114 

861 

887 

548 

78 

805 

199 

404 

18 

88 

87 

65 

m 

18 

87 

87 

74 

6 

81 

86 

47 

174 

474 

444 

918 

110 

883 

806 

689 

44 

188 

188 

866 

41 

77 

88 

159 

116 

864 

818 

676 

11 

88 

89 

57 

6 

80 

16 

86 

16 

89 

40 

79 

19 

61 

49 

110 

15 

88 

46 

78 

5 

88 

16 

88 

16 

80 

84 

64 

60 

147 

140 

887 

87 

118 

99 

817 

88 

188 

818 

895 

8 

18 

86 

44 

6 

18 

8 

81 

88 

68 

88 

156 

10 

16 

80 

86 

11 

38 

88 

44 

NOirrHUMBBBLiAND. 


M7 


GoSFO&Tfi  P. 

Binaiitosi,  East    * 
ftrmtod.  West 

Coxlodge 

Fawdon 

Kenton,  £,  and  W. 
St.  John  p» 

BenweU 

Elswick 

Westgate 
St.  Andeew  p, 

Fenham 


HOUTON  p.  ck. 

Bebside      .        •        • 

Hartford,  East    «        « 

Hartfoxd,  Wegt  ^ 

.Horton 
Eabsdon  p. 

Backwortk 

Blyth,  South,  a(kL  Neif^ham 

BuLrradon 

Efitrsdon      -        *        - 

H^yftley      -        *        - 

Holf  wdl    •        -        - 

Seaton  Dekve^ 

SeghiU        .        . 
Morpeth^, 

ij^scofc       "        ^ 

6<IKftORTA  l\ 

G<lsf ortb.  North . 
Gosfortb,  South 

LOMIfr  B£Mlt)N  P« 

Ttnemouth  p. 
Clrirton       m        «>        ft' 
Cidler  coats 
Monkseaton 
Murton       *        «.        . 
Preston       •        »        * 

SUelds,  North    - 

VOL,  I. 


T 


rt.TijTTr*. 


HottMi. 


48 
23 

109 
101 
284 

236 

77 
195 

10 


2,522 


11 
443 

.   1 
20 

29 

46 
443 

9 

66 

415 

19 
60 
85 

22 
32 

24 

21 

988 

579 

92 

106 

116 

109 
858. 


MalM. 


143 

360 
412 
634 

654 
232 
567 

S6 


7,027 


55 

889 
6 

88 

87 

184 

899  I 
25 

189 

lm 

43 
113 

67 

71 
82 

63 

92 

2,891 

2.261 
238 
258 
266 

279 
3,845 


Females. 


6,986 


TolaL 


127  i 
63 
278 
335 
570 

642 
232 
793 

51 


68 
876 

9 
29 
52 

119 

996 
27 

138 

998 
57 

127 
71 

M 
82 

7B 

82 

2,656 

2.000 
298 
-2791 
290 
348 

4^360 


870 
186 
633 
747 
1,804 

1,296 

464 

M60 

87 


13,995 


128 

1,765 

15 

57 

139 

JMS 
1,805  i 
58 

ATI 
i,'796 
100 
240 
188 

136 
164 

141 

174 
5,547 

4,361 


«fl7 
556 

627 
»,205 


3  T 


S58 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OP 


Tynemouth 

.Whitley  ch. 
Wallsend  p. 
St.  Andrew  p. 

Cramlinffton  ch. 

Jesmond  Township 
All  Saints  p, 

Byker 

Heaton 


Newcastle  upon  TSfne, 

All  Saints  p.       -        - 
Andrew,  St.  p.     • 
John,  St.  p. 
Nicholas,  St.  p. 


Berwick  upon  Tweed  p.     - 

Iskmdahire^  Qmnty  qf  Durham. 
Ancroft  p.  ch.     '        '        ^ 
Belford  p.  Ross  t. 
Holy  Island  p.  -       - 

Kyloe  p.  ch. 
Tweedmouth  p.ch.' 

Narhamshire. 

CORNHILL  eh.  ... 

Duddo  .... 
Felkington  ... 
Grindon  .... 
Homdiff  .  -  .  - 
LfOan-end  ... 

Longridge  ... 

Noriiam      .        .        .        - 
Norham  Mains 
Shoreswood         --       -        - 
Thornton  ... 

Twizdl       .... 


Bedlinoton  p. 


ijiabitej 

Homes. 

MalM. 

Females. 

ToUL 

1,525 

4.192 

5,262 

9,454 

96 

264 

290 

554 

560 

2,590 

2,513 

5,108 

68 

148 

182 

880 

78 

200 

267 

467 

481 

1,895 

1,957 

8,852 

88 

247 

223 

470 

7,859 

28,064 

24,900 

47,964 

1,878 

7,498 

9,062 

16,555 

846 

8,099 

4,182 

7,281 

770 

2,889 

8,401 

6,290 

548 

2,444 

8,661 

5,105 

4,081 

15,925 

19,256 

85,181 

1,024 

8,964 

4,759 

8,728 

255 

659 

719 

1,878 

.9 

29 

26 

55 

189 

275 

885 

760 

185 

489 

501 

990 

759 

2,182 

2,491 

4,678 

1,847 

8,784 

4,122 

7,856 

168 

418 

450 

868 

58 

148 

142 

285 

85 

91 

95 

186 

28 

84 

89 

178 

68 

187 

164 

851 

25 

70 

78 

148 

14 

86 

45 

81 

178 

421 

480 

901 

22 

65 

57 

122 

52 

126 

185 

261 

87 

118 

119 

282 

50 

151 

157 

308 

725 

1,900 

2,006 

8,906 

292 

988 

929 

1,862 

NORTHUMBERLAND. 


859 


Summary  ofHoutett  PamiUet,  tmd  PerwnSt  in  the  County  qf  Norihumherland. 


I 


WARDS. 


Glendale 

Bambrougb... . 
Coquetdaie  •  •  •  • 

Tindale; 

Morpetb 

v/asvi6  ••••••••• 

Berwick 

Newcastle  .  •  •  • . 


HOUSES. 


1 
X 


8,098 
1,877 
3,875 
7,074 
8,166 
9,881 
1,084 
4,031 


I 


Totals . .  31^86 


I 


£>J 


8,834 
1,989 
4,194 
8,189 
8,715 
18,540 
8,030 
8,897 


43,188 


a 


1 

n 


7 

7 

9 

33 

11 

74 

3 

46 


190 


1 


63 

67 
130 
865 

87 
890 

34 
840 


1,166 


OCCUPATIONS. 


PBRB0N8. 


il 


5*3 

II 


1,477 
1,888 
1,907 
3,887 
1,348 
1,685 
116 
45 


11,597 


447 

556 

1,087 

8,144 

817 
7,407 
1,061 
7,046 


80,565 


810 

805 
1,800 
8,158 

556 
4,508 

853 
1,806 


XQjm 


I 


5,587 
4,750 
9,606 
19,389 
6,048 

30,091 
3,964 
15,986 


A 


95,354 


6,854 

5,019 
10,403 
19,993 

6,459 
81,868 

4,759 
19,856 


I 


11,441 
9,769 
80,009 
39,388 
18,601 
61,959 
8,783 
86,181 


103,611  1198,966 


AGES  OF  PERSONS,  IN  1821, 

IN  THE  COUNTY  OF  NOBTHTTMBERLANO»  INCLUDING  BEBWICK  UPON  TWEED. 


Mile*. 

Femalei. 

TotaL 

Under  5  years 

9,077 

8,577 

17,654 

5  to  10 

8,383 

8,004 

16,337 

10  to  15 

7,444 

6,931 

14,875^ 

15  to  20 

6,828 

6,855 

13,083 

20  to  30 

8,905 

10,808 

19,713 

30  to  40 

6,687 

7,328 

14,015 

.  40  to  50 

5,422 

5,804 

11,226 

50  to  60 

4,116 

4,348 

8,459 

60  to  70 

2,978 

3,295 

6,273 

70  to  80 

1,701 

1,833 

3,534 

80  to  90 

504 

601 

1,105 

90  to  100       ... 

66 

90 

156 

100  and  upwards 

1 

6 

7 

Totals 


61,462 


64,475 


•  •  • 


125,987 


« 

From  the  above  it  appears  that  the  ages  of  125,937  persons  were  returned ;  but  as 
the  total  number  of  persons  in  Northumberland  was  198,965,  it  follows  that  the  ages 
oi  more  than  one-tlurd  have  not  been  obtained  in  compliance  with  the  question  to 
that  dSect  The  returns  from  Newcastle  did  not  contain  any  information  concerning 
the  ages  of  persons. 


200 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


BAPTISMS,  BURIALS,  AND  MABBIAGES. 


The  following  summary  of  baptisms,  burials,  and  marriages,  in  the  county  of 
Northumberland  is  taken  from  an  Abstract  of  the  Parish  Itesisters,  published  bv 
authority.  In  1821,  returns  were  mad^  from  the  roisters  of  dgfaty-seven  parish 
d^urches  and  thirteen  chapels,  paid  from  Ax  registers  ofaiss^ters. 


Baptisms  from  1700  to  1801 

-from,1801  to  1811 

•^ — -from.  1^11  to  1821 

Burials  from  1700  to  1801 

—  from  1801  to  1811 

—  fyam.  1811  to  1821 


«»-* 


>*iBrf*> 


•  •  • 

•  •  • 
ft  •  • 

MfllCfl* 

45,207 

19,499 
fi3»S54 

•  •  • 

Femaink 

43,184  . 
18,734     ., 

22,817     . 

ToUL 

..  88,391 
..     38,233 

..    45,671 

•  •• 

38,762 
15,959 
15,157 

•  •  • 

39,538     ., 

16,275  .. 
15,323     .. 

..  78,300 
>.  32,234 
..     30,380 

Marrii^ges  ^m  1761  to  1771 ...  M8a 

< from  1771  to  1781  .».10,298 

— —  from  1781  to  171^1  ...10.336 


»  I  ■■» 


Marriages  ftom  1791 16  1801...t0»8<8 
-■■    from  1801  to  1811. ..11,989 
from  1811  to  1821  ...12,997 


^*-iMbii^Whi«ki«i.Wa 


The  annual  average  number  of  unentered  baptiflme  is  calculated  to  amount  to  686, 
of  burials  to  467»  and  of  marriages  to  103,  Hie  large  number  of  irregular  marriages 
in  this  county  is  explabved  by  me  custom  of  Msortiiig  %6  the  bol*der  of  Scoiiaind  for 
that  purpose.  The  register  of  baptisms,  as  affording  a  record  of  the  births,  is  neces^ 
sarily  defective  in  many  particulars.  Some  sedts  of  Dissenters  bi^tixe  their  own 
children,  without  keeping  a  regular  register;  Baptists,  Quakers,  Jews,  and  a  few 
Free-thinkers^  do  not  baptise  their  children )  ami  even  Chvirchmen  frequently  neg-^ 
lect  public  baptism  when  the  child  has  been  privately  baptized :  add  to  which,  chu- 
dren  that  die  immediately  after  birth  are  unbaptized.  From  all  this^  it  has  been 
odculated,  that  about  one-fourth  of  the  children  Ibom  are  never  entered  in  any  parish 
register*  


*  It  has  usually  been  maintained^  ^t  the  poor-laws  tend  to  increase  t&e  population  in«B  fJarming  degree ; 
but  experience  does  not  support  this  assertion.  In  Scotland,  where  the  poor-laws  are  «ot  in  operation,  the 
ratio  of  increase,  dince  Igl  f,  is  nearly  l6  per  cent,  on  the  resident  population ;  while  .in  Eng^d  it  is  no 
more  than  18  ')[>er  6ftnt :  a  small  difference,  which  would  probably  have  arisen  had  poor-laws  equally,  or  not 
at  all,  existed  iti  both  countries.  **  lli6  proximate  'causes  of  the  increase  of  population  in  )Grreat  iKritain,"  ob- 
serves Mr.  Ri^kman,  ''are  obviously  the  diminish^  rate  of  mortality,  liAd  th^  itiCreasing  number  of  children 
bom.'*  The  i!rst  of  these  causes,  he  remarks,  may  be  attributed  to  ''houses  less  crowded,  better  food,  better 
clothing,  and  desnUness,  anvong  the  ifuni^rous  -classes  of  socdeiy  ;**  to  which  mir^  b^  tfdded,  the  increased 
extent  of  drainage,  the  improved  treatment  of  diseases,  and  especially  the  substitution  of  vaccination  for  the 
siAiai  P6X.  I'iMs  1^'te  itier^A^  ^  %M»  ^«i|pric«flM<id  poiptiliMM  h  nscribed  ptttl|r  to  €he  dktne  df  fkhn-bo^ 
sewnas,  Whidi  indiicta  ^e  dissft^tlMd  Udbo«n*«r  to  inMy  Md  become  a^^oCtagHfr.  The  p^traktiod  ih  mtai^ 
fdDthiring  aAd  in  ttftiiie  WiCliIng  >ai^icts  Wttifrill^  IndMifiM,  !h»tti  th^  dr^suMlaiiee  ^  tMUbr^  Mbf  able  t^ 
ma^tain Itettsehoi  «t  Mi  M^y  a^.  Iti  tlMe  plaOMidM,  isr»^«lioi«  pModtf  jMsflirily  aoA  IimMmQ 
wages  encourage  marriagea.*^Pre^.  Obt^  to  Popdatian  Abstract,  ISSS, 


NORTHUMB£ftLAN£>.  861 

If  but  a  fiftieth  part  be  added  to  the  resident  population  of  Northumberland  for 
persons  serving  in  the  army  and  navy,  Act.  the  total  amount  will  be  203,000.  The 
annual  proportion  of  baptisms  is  one  to  thirty-eighty  of  burials  one  to  fifty-eighty  and 
of  marriages  one  to  «Mr  hundred  undjhrtg^m. 

The  population  of  this  county  (including  a  certain  proportion  su{>poded  to  have 
formed  part  dP  tiie  army  and  navy)  was^  in  1700,  stated  at  118,000;  in  1750)  at 
141,700;  in  1801,  at  162,300;  in  1811,  at  177,900;  and  in  1821,  at  303,000  persons. 
But  the  returns  both  in  1801  and  1811  are  admitted  to  have  been  extremely  inaiccu- 
rate.  Such  a  sudden  increase  of  peculation  as  the  last  returns  exhibit  is,  considering 
the  circumstances  of  the  county,  almost  incredibk^  and  must,  in  a  great  measure,  be 
attributed  to  the  deficiencies  in  the  former  enumeration.  The  registered  baptisms, 
during  the  ten  years  preceding  1821,  was  45,871,  and  the  burials,  during  the  same 
perioi^  30,380,  shewing  an  increase  of  oaily  15,491 ;  and  if  even  the  difierence  between 
die  sup|)osed  number  of  imentered  baptisms  and  burials  be  takeA  into  the  account,  it 
will  make  an  addition  of  no  more  than  1190.f 

*  The  Annual  mortality  of  idl  England  is  one  in^y-eigkt.    In  Middlesex,  t&e  diortality  is  stated  at  ooe  in 
Jhrty^eoen,  and  ia  An^esey  at  one  ih  dghty-thrte,  \ 

m 
•  ■ 

t  The  Ite\r»  Joha  OavisoOj^  rector  of  Washinglofi,  in  thd  oounty  of  Durham,  hafc  subjoined  some  judioiotis 
z^iaarks  to  the  Padsh  Register  Aetam  of  that  plaee  ;  and. as  they  nte  equally  ap|>ltcable  to  the  ooUtery  dis* 
trict  in  Northumbetktid^  thair  in^iftfbn  herie  tid^uir^  lio  ap^ogy. 

"  The  pitmen  coteMonly  marry  at  an  e^ly  agie,  and  hatti  numerous  fiimilies.  tt  is  an  advlihtBgiB  t»  Ihcin 
tt>  harVe  families ;  b^tiause  their  bdys  find  Votk  in  the  pits  when  they  ate  very  youtig,  begiiUfiitig  \A  gUtufbtk 
and  wages  ^m  the  age  of  seven  or  eighty  The  aarfthigs  xA  the  pitmeh  &r  exceed  tbode  of  agricultttl^'  k« 
bodters.  tt  they  have  two  Working  boys,  ot  even  fiit^y  thch*  earnings^  on  an  ai^erag^,  a^  double  tho^  of 
%rleultural  labourers;  whilst  the  girls  have  the  same  advantage  of  field- work  al  others.  Bbt  the  wotk  of 
^e  pftirian  requires  a  more  nourishing  diet  than  is  necessary  for  a  farming  laboitt'er ;  and  they  are  liable  to 
iBASualtiea  which.  disahW.  them  at  times.  ^  Their  wock  is  hard  and  laborious,  and  they  are  apt  to  over-wotk 
themselves  to  finish  their  task  the  sooner :  in  other  respects  their  employment  does  not  seem  to  be  unhealthy* 
Few  of  them  are  very  robust,  or  attain  to  a  great  age,  and  few  are  positively  sickly ;  and  upon  the  whole,  in 
respect  to  health  and  strength,  they  are  a  race  holding  a  middle  place  between  the  higher  and  lower  standard 
Af  the  peulmtry  aukl  tisanalhccufiiig  popi^f len^  They  Ibttn  a  very  diaiStict  race,  inasniiicb  nk  they,  marry 
alnoit  etdmivtly  irknotigst  thcmielves^  and  hnwg  tap  their  sottB  to  their  own  oourse  of  life«  They  aiso  Hve 
very  mwdk'tKigetfcer,  tosbprag  Hide  society  with  other  chutes  of  people.  Hence^  theire  i$  a  atrong  sympathy 
avd  Sttle  imprdvenMift  of  andertftandlng  amongst  Aea. 

*'  The  facitity  wkh  whidi  b«iys  obtain  work  and  Ua  wi^es»  when  they  are  youQg,  is  of  great  disadVantaga 
to  thsmi  as  to  thdr  manners  and  right  eduoatieii ;  becanse  il  tempta  the  ptoants  too  oftm  to  fi^rega  a  dua 
controul  aver  them,  ftr  the  sake  of  the  wages  which  they  bring  hone ;  and  the  boys,  by  their  hard  laboitv 
having  a  right  to  indulgjence,  soon  become  aaasters.  , 

''Their  occupation  promotes  theur  beidth  in  this  way,  that  it  induces  an  absolate  necessity  of  a  certain 
degree  of  cleanliness ;  for  a  pitman  must  wash  himself  copiously  afler  coming  out  of  the  jnt,  and  he  most  do 
this  every  day,  and  from  head  to  foot.  This  Constant  bathing  I  consider  to  be  a  chief  preservative  of  the 
tone  and  strength  of  their  constitution ;  and,  combined  witht  the  quality  of  their  diet,  it  serves  to  wipport  them 
against  the  severe  .ei^ertiong  of  their  labour,  and  prolongs  their  lives  in  tolerable  health," 

VOL,  I,  '  8  U 


26S 


STATISTICAL  VIEW  OF 


MILITIA  EETUEN8. 

Abstract  or  Return^  to  the  Lords  of  His  Majesty s  most  hommrable  Privy  Council,  t^ 
tiie  several  Clerks  of  the  Subdivision  Meetings  in  the  County  of  Nortkumberland, 
with  the  Town  and  County  qfthe  Town  qf  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  and  Berwick  upon 
Tweed,  qfMen  between  the  Ages  qf  Eighteen  and  Forty ^fioe  Years,  received  by  me, 
Thomas  Havidson,  Clerk  to  the  General  Meetings  qf  the  ZAeutenaney  ^  the  said 
County  qf  Northumberland,  with  Newcastle  and  Berwick,  pursuant  to  the  Directions 
of  the  46/A  George  III.  Cap.  91,  Schedule  D.    Dated  January  26, 1822. 


SUBDIVISIONS. 


Tindale  Ward 

Castle  Ward 

Coquetdale  Ward  . . 
Morpeth  Ward  . .  •  • 
Glendale  Ward  • . . 
Bambrough  Ward  •  • 
Newcastle  upon  Tyne 
Berwick  upon  Tweed. 


General  Total* . . 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PERSONS 
LIABLE  TO  SERVE. 


HaTingnoChfl- 

OIMU 


Under 

aa 


; 


SSTS 

S107 

1187 

708 

665 

534 

1089 

148 


8705 


Above 

aa 


685 

568 
861 
SS8 

147 

13S 

468 

71 


3680 


HaTiDg 
Chfldrco. 


No  Child 
imdal4. 


AnvChOd 
nnaer  141. 


4 
6 
4 
3 
2 
4 
13 


86 


359 
544 

144 

106 

88 

56 

519 
50 


1866 


^  to 

I 


88S1 

dM5 

1696 

1045 

902 

726 

2083 

269 


13287 


PERSONS  EXEMPT  FROM 
SERVING. 


55 

51 

81 

11 

81 

6 

170 

1 


405 


MILITAKY  8TBENOTH. 


From  the  returns  made  in  1808,  pursuant  to  an  act  to  provide  for  the  def<moe  and 
security  of  the  realm  diuring  the  war,  it  appears  that  the  county  of  Northumberland 
and  the  town  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed,  exclusive  of  Newcastle,  contained  21,166  men, 
fit  for  actual  service,  betweoi  15  and  60  yean  of  age.  Of  this  number,  4,089  volun- 
teoed  to  serve  on  horsebadc,  6,898  volunteered  to  serve  on  foot,  5,847  were  wiling 
to  serve  as  pioneers  or  labourers,  and  2,590  woe  willing  to  sorve  as  guides.  Besides 
these,  there  weie  2,656  men,  between  the  above  ages,  who  were  infirm,  or  incapable 
of  active  service ;  and  25,476  males  and  females,  'wno  from  age,  infancy,  infirnoity,  or 
otber  causes,  would  probably  be  incapable  of  removing  themselves  in  case  of  danger. 
At  tMs  time,  9  aliens,  and  29  males  of  the  people  call»l  Quakers,  were  found  in  this 
county. 

The  fdlowing  was  the  strengtii  of  the  different  corps  of  yeomanry  and  volunteers 
on  tibe  18th  August,  1810  >-JPercy  Tenantry  Vdunteer  Cavalry,  279 ;  Do.  Horse 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  S63 

Aitin^  attached  to  Do.  26 ;  Do.  Volunteer  Riflemen,  1»199 ;  Walkend  Volunteer 
Riflemen,  147;  Coquetdale  Ranges,  Yeomanry  Cavalry,  58;  By  well  Volunteer^, 
Do.  75 ;  Berwick  Artillery  Company,  68 ;  North  Shields  and  Tynemouth  Volunteer 
In&ntry,  S78;  Newcastle  LoyaL  Assbciated  Volunteer  Infantry,  802}  Newcastle 
Loyal  y  olunteer  Infantry,  289 ;  Glendale  Volunteer  Infantry,  78 ;  and  Do.  Cavalry, 
77.  The  whole  forming  a  total  of  3,811  m^i,  exclusive  of  the  local  militia,  which  was 
nearly  1,000  strong,  and  into  which  several  volunteer  corps  had  been  incorporated. 

The  following  is  an  abstract  of  miister-rolls  of  yeomanry  and  volunteers  in  the 
coimty  of  Northumberland,  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  and  Berwick  upon  Tweed,  dated 
August  20,  1822 : — 

Number  of  Penons  exempt   ^ 
Number  of  Penoot  from  the  Mifitia 

eoioilkd  theran.  and  Amy  of  Reaene* 

Coquetdale  Rangers,  Volunteer  Cavalry,         ...  180  ...  171 

Bywell           '            Volunteer  Do 67  ...  67 

Northumberland  and  Newcastle  upon  Tyne)  ^^^^  ^^^ 

Mounted  and  DiBmounted  Cavalry,             j  ^^"  •'  ^^^ 

Totals  627        ...        618 

BENEFIT   SOCIETIES. 

In  the  Returns  laid  before  Parliament  relative  to  the  expence  and  maintenance  of 
the  Poor  in  England,  the  number  of  members  in  Friendly  Societies  in  Northumber- 
hnd,  Newcastle,  and  Berwick,  in  the  year  181S,  is  statea  to  be  9972.  In  the  year 
1814,  the  number  was  10,841,  and  in  the  year  1815,  it  appears  to  have  increased  to 
16,S67.  The  number  of  Benefit  Societies  in  Newcastle  alone,  in  the  year  180S,  is 
stated  in  another  parliamentary  document,  at  48,  consisting  of  4,454  members.  But 
these  returns  are,  no  doubt,  inaccurate.  In  Newcastle,  at  present,  the  members  of 
Benefit  Sodeties  belonging  to  males  alone,  may  be  safely  stated  at  upwards  of  4000 ; 
wl^ile  it  is  ascertained  tiliat  above  5000  females  belong  to  such  institutions.  Perhaps 
the  number  of  persons  bek>nging  to  Benefit  Societies  in  Northumberlsmd  are,  at  t£e 
presait  tkne,  equal  to  12  in  ea<£  hundred  of  the  resident  population.. 

The  Benefit  Societies  noticed  in  the  official  Returns  to  Parliament,  are  those  only 
whose  artides  or  rides  have  been  approved  of  by  the  magistracy  at  the  petty  sessions. 
But  as  the  provisions  of  the  acts  passed  for  the  "  encouragement"  of  such  institutions 
have  in  several  instances  proved  discouraging  mid  ruinous,  many  of  the  members  of 
diibs  recently  formed  have  declined  to  accept  the  protection  offered  by  these  acts. 
However,  if  we  estimate  the  members  of  Benefit  JSocieties  of  evei^  description  at 
25,000 ;  and  the  aven^  annual  subscription  of  each  member,  indudmg  fines  and  ex^ 
tiaordinaries,  so  low  as  18s.  it  follows  that  £  22,500  is  subscribed  every  year  for  mu* 
tual  relief  bv  llie  industrious  dasses  in  this  county.  This  is  about  one^third  of  tibe 
sum  annually  expended  in  the  maintenance  of  paupers,  and  must  tend  greatly  to 
lighten  the  pressure  of  the  poor  rates.  It  must,  indeed^  be  allowed,  that  £  2,800  of 
the  above  sum,  perhaps  a  little  more,  is  spent  in  drink ;  but  the  pleasure  that  labour- 
ing people  feel  at  havmg  opportunities  of  joining  in  convivial  meetings,  is  one  great 


264  STATISTICAL  VIEW  OP  NOKTHUMBERLAND. 

biduoement  fbr  entering  into  these  sodetiei.  The  ^  Society  of  Keelmen  dn  the  Birelr 
Tyne ;"  the  Schoohnasters*,  the  Cleikft*  the  Tradesmen's  AsaodationB,  will  be  noticed 
hereafter ;  but  we  cannot  quit  this  important  subject,  without  recommending  to  the 
attention  of  our  great  coaUownera  and  manufacturers,  the  exodlent  phm  adopted  to 
cherish  the  spirit  of  industry  and  honest  independence  amcMig  the  vast  numbers  of 
people  employed  in  the  'extensive  and  magnificent  works  at  Soho.  They  are  all  difi^ 
tinguished  by  their  orderly  conduct  and  cleanliness,  and  none  of  tiion  erer  came  upon 
the  parish,  the  whole  of  tiliem  being  associated  under  the  auspices  of  die  proprietors, 
in  an  insurance  society,  divided  into  classes  according  to  the  eamii^  of  the  indivi- 
duals, for  the  support  of  such  of  them  as  may  become  incapable  of  earning  tfieir  bread, 
on  a  scale  proportioned  to  the  contributions.  Such  institutions  as  these  cherish  the 
truly  honourable  pride  of  self-dependence,  which  is  the  nourisher  of  integrity  and  vir- 
tuous emulation. 

It  has  frequently  been  observed,  that  not  more  than  one-t^nth  of  the  members  of 
Benefit  Societies  ever  become  chargeable  to  a  parish.  This  fact  is  d^sive  of  the  uti- 
lity of  such  institutions,  which  certainly  merit  the  attention  and  encouragement  of 
gentlemen  of  fortune  and  influence.  (Jircumstances  have  lately  operated  in  favour  of 
aviw  Banks ;  but  these  establishments  can  never  be  substituted  with  advantage  for 
Benefit  Societies, 

EDUCATION. 

From  the  *'  Digest  of  Parochial  Returns  made  to  the  Select  Committee  of  the 
House  of  Commons,  appointed  to  enquire  into  the  £ducati<m  of  the  Poor  in  the 
County  of  Northumberland,^*  and  ord^ed  to  be  printed  in  April,  1819>  it  appears  that 
tiler e  are  JFortff^Mt  endowed  Sekodh^  in  which  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  five 
children  are  taught.  The  revenue  at  present  arising  from  Uie  endowments  is  stated 
at  £  3,288  8s,  Two  of  these  schools  are  on  the  new  plan,  either  National  or  British 
and  Foreign. 

The  same  document  states  that  there  are  Twb  Hundred  and  Ninety^one  unendowed 
Day  Schools :  ct  this  number  eight  are  conducted  coi  the  new  pl«i,  either  National 
or  British  and  Foreign,  and  thirteen  are  Dames*  Schocds.  These  sdhods  w«<  attakU 
ed  by  eleven  thousand,  nine  hundred,  and  twenty*four  children. 

It  is  also  stated  that  there  are  JPW-^-ni^  anendowed  Sunday  Sbkoob,  attended  hj 
three  thousand,  five  hundred,  and  seventy-six  ehfldren.  Two  of  these  sehocds  are  oa 
the  new  plan,  either  National  or  British  and  Foreign. 

By  these  Hetums  it  seems,  that  only  seventeen  thousand,  seven  hundred,  and  five 
dkildrm,  enioy  the  advantages  of  education  in  this  county.  But  by  a  recent  survey 
of  the  schoeSs,  made  by  a  lew  publksq^ted  Indfriduals,  these  return^  partkmkaff 
as  they  relate  to  unendowed  schooAi  in  pepulous  towns,  have  been  fonna  to  be  ex. 
tremely  defective,  «nd  the  number  of  chdcbren  receiving  education  very  miieb  under^ 
nrted.    These  errqrs  will  be  notieed  in  the  subse^ent  mvi^ion^  of  tite  work; 


HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION 


OF  THE 


TOWN  OF  BERWICK  UPON  TWEED. 


ROM  what  circumstance  this  town,  the  sdte  of  so  much  contest, 
and  the  scene  of  so  many  treaties,  had  its  name,  ^^  is  not  certainly 
known,"  saith  Speed.*  Berwick  is  never  mentioned  by  Bede,  who 
lived  in  that  neighbourhood  during  the  eighth  century,  thouffh  he 
notices  Coldingham,  under  the  dissimilar  form  of  Ccludi  llrhs. 
Neither  was  Berwick  noticed  among  the  several  mansiones 
which  Edgar  conferred  on  St.  Cuthbert's  monks  of  Durham,  with 
their  various  rights :  nor  is  it  mentioned  in  a  charter  of  Robert, 
the  bishop  of  St.  Andrews,  in  1127.  The  name  of  Berwick  first  appears  in  the  foun- 
dation charter  of  Selkirk,  of  earl  David,  under  the  form  of  Berwyk ;  and  it  is  spoken 
of  by  that  prince,  after  he  came  to  the  throne,  in  his  grant  to  Dunfermlin  abbey, 
under  the  form  of  Berwick^  when  it  was  obviously  the  king's  town  in  demesn,  and  of 
some  importance. 

*  Leland^  and  his  followers,  derive  the  etymology  of  Berwick,  though,  perhaps^  without  much  analogy, 
firom  the  Aber^mck  of  the  BritiBh  speech.  Baxter  is  less  happy  than  usual,  in  finding  some  ingenious  con-* 
jecture  for  the  ancient  name  of  Berwick  town.  Camden  is  more  felicitous,  though  his  intimations  are  not 
quite  founded  :-*At  the  epoch  of  Domesday-book,  Bertvioa  signified  a  village,  which  appertained  to 
some  manor,  or  town :-  and  as  Tothill  was  called  the  Beremcke  of  Westminster,  in  the  donation  of  Edward 
the  Confessor,  the  town,  on  the  Tweed,  was  called  the  Berewick  of  Coldingham.  Such  is  the  intimation  of 
Camden !  But,  he  has  not  attempted  to  shew,  that  there  ever  existed  any  connection  between  Coldingham 
and  Berwick,  which  are  not  so  near  to  each  other  as  Westminster  and  Tothill.  We  may  learn  from  Somner 
and  Lye,  the  Saxon  glossarists,  that  Beremc  is  the  same,  in  substance,  as  Beretun,  villa  frumentaria,  a  grange, 
pr  village.  Yet,  it  is  not  very  likely  that  Berwic  was  a  mUafrumeniaria,  or  grange,  during  the  age  when  it 
must  have  received  its  name  firom  the  Saxon  settlers  at  the  mouth  of  th^  Tweed.    It  was  much  more  proba* 

VOL.  I.— (  12  )  3    X 


266  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Berwickshire,  as  the  most  southern  division  of  Lothian,  became  an  important 
trict  of  the  kingdom  of  Scotland,  by  the  cession  of  the  earl  of  Northumberland  to  the 
Scottish  Northumbrian  Saxons,  who  had  long  enjoyed  this  ample  country.  Half  a 
century  of  violent  conflicts  ensued.  At  length  the  sons  of  Malcolm  Canmore  succes- 
sively ascended  his  bloody  throne.  In  A.  D.  1097,  Edgar  acquired  the  sovereignty 
of  Berwickshire,  which  he  quietly  retained  till  his  demise,  in  1107.  By  the  wul  of 
Edgar,  his  younger  brother,  David,  not  only  obtamed  a  portion  of  Cumberland,  but 
a  large  portion  of  the  districts  which  lie  in  Lothian,  southward  of  Lamermoor.  In 
those  times  there  was  not,  probably,  a  numerous  population  on  a  doubtful  frontier, 
either  at  the  accession  of  Edgar,  or  even  at  the  more  settled  year  1184,  when  earl 
David,  by  indisputable  descent,  became  king.  Many  respectable  English  barons, 
who  laid  the  foundaticm  of  considerable  houses  at  that  period,  settled  in  Berwickshire, 
and  augmented  its  people. 

A(  this  period  Berwick  had  certainly  become  a  town,  for,  when  earl  David  founded 
the  abbey  of  Selkirk,  while  Alexander  yet  reined  in  Scotland,  it  had  a  church,  a 
fishery,  a  mill,  and  some  trade.  During  the  reign  of  David  I.  it  became  one  of  the 
quatuor  hurgorum  for  holding  a  court  of  commercial  jurisdiction  under  the  king's 
chamberlain.  It  is  probable  that  the  castle,  by  furnishing  shelter  in  these  rude  times, 
produced  a  village  under  its  walls,  and  that  the  village  gave  rise  to  the  bridge  across 
the  Tweed. 

William  I.  of  Scotland  (known  by  the  name  of  William  the  Lion),  who,  in  1147; 
had  joined  Henry's  three  sons,  and  others  of  the  English  nobility,  in  a  rebellion 
against  their  sovereign,  was  taken  prisoner  at  Alnwick  castle,  whither  he  had  retired, 
and  was  carried  in  chains  before  Henry.  The  royal  prisoner,  in  ord^-  to  obtain  his 
liberty,  was  obliged  to  pay  homage  for  the  whole  kingdom  of  Scotland,  and  acknow- 
ledge that  he  held  it  only  as  a  feu  of  the  crown  of  England ;  and,  as  a  security,  he 
was  forced  to  deliver  up  to  Henry  the  fort  of  Berwick,  together  with  all  the  other 
principal  forts  of  Scotland ;  William  agreeing  to  subsist  the  English  garrisons  which 
were  put  into  these  castles.  David,  the  king's  brother,  with  twenty  barons,  who 
were  present  at  the  signing  of  this  shameful  compact,  were  put  into  the  hands  of 
Henry,  as  hostages  for  Wilfiam's  good  faith :  after  which  the  king  was  set  at  Uberty, 
and  returned  to  Scotland.  The  Scots  continued  in  subjection  to  the  English  ml 
1189,  when  Richard  I.  styled  Richard  Coeur  de  lAon^  previous  to  his  undertaking  an 
expedition  to  the  Holy  Land,  relieved  William  and  his  subjects  from  their  degrading 
subjection,  and  accepted  10,000  marks  as  an  equivalent  for  the  release  of  the  vassalage 
of  Scotland,  and  the  fortresses  of  Berwick  and  Roxburgh.  William  I.  was  succeeded 
in  the  Scottish  crown  by  Alexander  II.  who  revived  his  claim  to  Northumberland, 
and  the  other  northern  counties ;  but  John  not  only  refused  to  accede  to  the  demands 

bly  so  called^  from  the  circumstance  of  its  want  of  verdure,  from  the  Anglo-Saxon,  haVy  bare,  tiudtis,  and  mc, 
vicus,  castellum,  sinus,  the  curving  reach  of  a  river.  Considering  all  circumstances,  it  appears,  that  this  is 
the  real  origin  of  Barwic ;  though  it  is  now  impossible  to  ascertain  whether  the  fvic  was  actually  applied  to 
the  village  or  to  the  castle.  On  the  whole,  it  is  more  than  probable,  that  the  fvick,  in  the  name  in  question, 
was  originally  applied,  by  the  Northumbrian  Saxons,  to  the  castle  on  the  bare  knoll,  which  was  built  by  some 
Northumbrian  baron  before  the  memorable  epoch  of  1020.— CAfl/werj'  Caled,  vol.  it.  p.  198. 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  267 

of  Alexander,  but  made  preparations  for  invading  Scotland.  Accordingly,  the  latter 
fell  upon  Northumberland,  which  he  easily  reduced,  while  the  former  carried  the 
war  into  Scotland.  Alexander  retired  to  defend  his  own  country,  when  John, 
after  burning  Alnwick  and  some  other  towns,  took  Berwick.  He  afterwards  directed 
his  operations  against  Edinburgh ;  but  being  opposed  by  Alexander,  at  the  head  of 
an  army,  he  precipitately  marched  back.  Alexander  did  not  fail  to  pursue;  and 
John,  to  cover  his  retreat,  burnt  the  towns  of  Coldingham*  and  Berwick ;  the  inha- 
bitants of  which  latter  place  he  treated  with  the  greatest  cruelty.     In  this  retreat,  the 

*  The  monastry  of  Coldingham  merits  particular  attention,  as  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  flouri$hin||r  reli- 
gious establishments  in  this  country,  and  as  being  intimately  connected  with  the  history  of  Northumberland. 
The  first  monastry  was  established  prior  to  the  consecration  of  the  pious  St  Cuthbert,  which  was  performed 
about  the  year  665,  for  he  visited  Coldingham,  at  the  request  of  its  abbess,  while  he  was  prior  of  Melros. 
This  house  was  then  under  the  government  of  Abba,  the  sister  of  Oswy,  king  of  Northumbria.  There  is  a 
tradition,  that  as  she  was  flying  from  the  dangers  which  threatened  her  in  that  distracted  kingdom,  the  vessel 
in  which  she  sailed  was  driven  ashore  near  St  Abb's  Head.  She  aflerwards  obtained  leave  to  remain  at 
Coldingham.  Edilthryda,  the  famous  virgin  queen  of  Egfrid  of  Northumbria,  rec^ved  the  veil  from  the 
hands  of  Wilfrid,  in  the  abbey  of  Coldingham.  About  the  year  709,  this  spacious  and  sacred  house  was, 
through  negligence,  consumed  by  fire.  It  was  inhabited  both  by  monks  and  nuns,  as>  was  usual  in  those 
times,  who,  though  dwelling  in  different  parts  of  the  monastry,  were  not  so  effectually  separated  as  to  prevent 
a  grievous  relaxation  of  discipline,  and  the  daily  practice  of  many  enormities,  which  greatly  increased  after 
the  death  of  their  pious  abbess,  Abba.  The  destruction  of  their  dwelling  was  universally  believed  to  be  a 
signal  judgn^ent,  inflicted  by  heaven,  on  the  wickedness  of  the  monks  and  nuns.  Cuthbert  and  his  monks 
in  Lindisfam  took  the  alarm.  That  holy  prior,  being  soon  after  made  bishop,  forbade  the  approach  of  women 
to  his  convent  They  were  not  even  allowed  to  enter  the  church  where  the  monks  performed  their  devo« 
tions ;  but  had  another  church,  at  a  considerable  distance,  erected  for  their  use.  The  custom  thus  introduced, 
of  forbidding  the  access  of  women  to  the  churches,  or  cemeteries  where  Cuthbert's  body  had  rested,  continued 
long ;  and  miracles  are  related  of  dreadful  punishments  befistlling  the  unhappy  females  who  presumed  to  in-* 
fringe  it  ^*  Once  upon  a  time,"  say  the  monkish  writers,  "  as  St  Cuthbert  was  preaching,  the  devil  came  to 
his  sermon  in  the  shape  of  a  most  beautiful  woman*  who  so  drew  away  the  attention  of  his  auditors  by  gazing 
upon  her,  that  St  Cuthbert,  by  throwing  holy  water  upon  her,  found  she  was  a  devil."  Yet,  it  is  added,  "  his 
nature  did  not  much  loath  the  company  of  his  holy  sisters,  for  many  abbotesses  were  of  his  most  intimate 
acquaintance." 

The  convent  of  Coldingham  was  still  doomed  to  suffer  great  calamities.  In  the  year  837,  Ingwar  and 
Ubba  were  ravaging  the  devoted  kingdom  of  Northumbria;  at  which  time  the  convent  of  Coldingham  (hav* 
ing  been,  it  seems,  restored  a£ter  the  conflagration  formerly  related)  was  filled  with  nuns  under  the  govern- 
ment of  an  abbess  called  Ebba.  This  pious  lady,  dreading  the  barbarities  which  the  heathen  invaders 
exercised  against  all  persons  devoted  to  religion,  called  together  the  nuns,  and  informing  them  of  the  haoatd 
to  which  their  chastity  was  exposed,  at  the  same  time  told  them  she  had  devised  a  way  by  wliich,  if  thej 
would  follow  her  advice,  they  might  escape  the  dknger.  All  of  them  declaring  their  readiness  to  do  any 
thing  for  that  purpose  she  pleased,  she  pulled  forth  a  razor,  and  before  them  all  cut  off  her  nose  and  upper 
lip :  her  example  was  immediately  followed  by  the  whole  sisterhood.  The  Danes  arriving  next  momingy  in 
the  hopes  of  gratifying  their  brutal  lusts,  were  shocked  with  the  deformed  and  bloody  spectacles  that  every 
where  presented  themselves.  At  the  same  time,  enraged  at  their  disappointment,  they  set  fire  to  the  convent^ 
in  the  fiames  of  which  its  wretched  inhabitants  were  oonsumed.  The  truth  of  this  story,  however,  rests  on 
a  very  slender  basis. 


268  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

king  of  England  himself  set  his  men  an  example  of  barbarity  and  ingratitude,  by- 
setting  fire  every  morning  to  the  house  in  which  he  had  lodged  the  preceding  night. 
In  short,  such  desolation  did  John  spread  all  around  him,  that  Alexander  K>und  it 
impossible  to  continue  his  pursuit ;  for  which  reason,  he  marched  westward,  and  in- 

Coldingham  was  refounded  by  the  Scottish  Edgar,  who  considered  himself  as  much  indebted  for  his  crown 
to  St  Cuihbert's  aid,  as  to  the  assistance  of  William  Rufus.  With  this  conviction  on  his  mind,  Edgar  knew 
no  bounds  to  his  liberalities  to  the  monks  of  St.  Cuthbert,  at  Durham :  and  his  subjects  and  his  successors 
followed  the  example  of  Edgar ;  as  indeed  the  name  of  Cuthbert  was  long  revered  throughout  the  North- 
em  districts.  The  year  IO98  is  the  epoch  of  the  foundation  of  the  priory  of  Coldingham,  by  the  abbot  of 
Durham,  who  sent  a  detachment  of  monks  thither ;  and  constituted  this  priory  a  cell  of  Durham.  The 
church  of  St.  Mary  at  Coldingham  was  now  dedicated  to  this  object :  and  Edgar  himself,  attending  the  dedi- 
cation, endowed  it  with  the  village  of  Swinton,  giving  the  monks  of  St.  Cuthbert  four  and  twenty  beasts,  for 
restating  the  cultivation  of  the  hamlet ;  with  half  a  mark  of  money,  from  each  carucate  in  Coldinghamshiie, 
and  confirming  the  same  peace  within  this  district  as  Holy  Island  or  Norham  enjoyed.  Edgar  granted, 
moreover,  to  those  monks,  Paxton,  with  the  waters  and  the  men  ;  and  also  Fishwic,  with  the  lands  lying  be- 
tween Cnapdene  and  Homedene.  Malcolm  IV.  seems  to  have  emulated  Edgar,  in  his  favour  to  the  monks 
of  Coldingham.  William  the  Lion  confirmed  all  these  privileges,  and  added  more.  Alexander  II.  followed 
his  father's  example,  in  confirming  their  privileges,  and  in  giving  them  new  ones.  Robert  I.  not  only  con- 
firmed all  those  grants,  but  gave  them  the  desirable  privilege  of  taking,  yearly,  from  his  forest  of  Selkirk^ 
five  harts,  for  the  usual  festival  of  St.  Cuthbert 

As  Coldingham.  was  planted  by  a  colony  of  Benedictine  monks,  from  Durham,  the  right  of  election  to  the 
priory  of  Coldingham  appears  to  have  belonged  to  the  priory  and  monks  of  Durham ;  and  the  priory  of 
Coldingham  generally  voted  at  the  election  of  a  prior  of  Durham.  This  monastry  seems  not  to  have  suffered 
so  much  as  those  of  Melros  and  Kelso,  though  it  lay  full  as  near  the  hostile  border ;  owing  to  its  being  the 
house  of  St.  Cuthbert,  and  the  cell  of  Durham.  Such  considerations,  however,  did  not  prevent  king  John, 
as  related  above,  fVom  giving  it  up  to  plunder.  Henry,  the  prior  of  Coldingham,  swore  fealty  to  Edward  I. 
in  June,  1291.  In  1295,  Edward  I.  gave  the  prior  and  monks  his  protection.  In  August,  1296,  Henry,  the 
prior,  with  his  convent,  again  swore  fealty  to  Edward  I.  at  Berwick,  and  received  in  return  from  him  a  pro- 
tection for  their  property.  Edward  also  confirmed  to  the  monks  of  Coldingham  the  several  charters  of  the 
Scottish  kings. 

Yet  those  various  protections  were  not  sufficient  to  ensure  the  safety  of  the  prior  and  mcmks  of  Coldingham, 
during  such  an  age.  Anthony  Bek,  as  he  owed  no  good  will,  either  to  the  prior  of  Durham,  or  to  the  prior 
of  Coldingham,  solicited  the  pope  to  confer  the  priory  of  Coldingham  on  Hugh,  the  bishop  of  Biblis  in  Pales- 
tine, who  had  been  deprived  of  his  bishopric  by  the  Saracens.  Benedict  XI.  in  1504,  complied  with  Bek's 
odious  solicitations,  by  conferring  that  rich  priory  on  the  bishop  of  Biblis,  till  he  was  better  endowed.  Tlie 
pope's  bull  was  laid  before  Edward  I.  in  parliament,  in  April,  1305 ;  but  the  estates  refused  to  acknowledge 
what  was  equally  unjust  in  itself,  as  inconsistent  with  the  interest  of  the  crown.  Edward  III.  and  Richard 
II.  also  extended  their  protection,  by  various  acts,  to  the  prior  and  monks  of  Coldingham.  The  Scottish 
kings,  from  Robert  I.  to  James  I.  gave  similar  proofk  of  their  inclination  to  support  this  favoured  priory. 
But  in  the  feeble  reign  of  Robert  III.  and  the  regency  of  the  duke  of  Albany,  the  monks  found  it  necessary 
to  seek  the  defence  of  individuals  rather  than  the  shelter  of  the  state,  and  to  place  their  house  and  its  reve- 
nues under  the  protection  of  Archibald,  the  earl  of  Douglas.  Thus  early  commenced  the  connection  of  the 
Homes  with  Coldingham,  which  they  never  relinquished  tOl  it  became  their  own. 

Patrick  Home  and  John  Home,  two  canons  of  the  church  of  Dunbar,  intruded  themselves  into  the  nionas« 
try  of  Coldingham.    They  persevered  almost  twenty  years  in  their  intrusion,  though  the  definitive  sentence 


BERWICK  UPON  •TWEED.  269 

Taded  England  by  the  way  of  Carlide.  This  place  he  took,  and  fortified;  after 
which  he  marched  south  as  far  as  Richmond,  receiving  homage  from  all  the  great 
barons  as  he  went  along.  At  Richm(»id  he  was  again  stopped  by  John's  ravages, 
and  obliged  to  return  through  Westmoreland  to  his  own  dominions. 

Berwick  was  afterwards  rebuilt  and  fortified  by  the  Scots ;  and  a  meeting  took 
place  there,  in  the  year  1S16,  of  the  archbishop  of  York  and  the  bishop  of  Durham, 
to  absolve,  from  a  sentence  of  exoommiuiication,  Alexander,  the  Scottish  king,  who 
attended  in  person. 

On  the  8d  day  of  August,  129I9  the  states  of  England  and  Scotland,  with  Edward 
I.  assembled  at  Berwick,  in  order  to  determine  the  daims  of  Robert  Bruce  and  John 
Baliol,  who,  during  the  inter*regnum,  had  appeared  as  competitors  for  the  Scottish 
crown :  but  this  important  point  was  not  decided  till  after  several  adjourned  meetings 
of  this  assembly,  wtien,  in  the  great  hall  of  the  castle,  upon  the  17th  day  of  Novem- 
ber in  the  following  year,  the  Mng  appointed  John  Baliol  successor  to  the  crown. 

Yet  the  restless  and  ambitious  spint  of  Edward  was  productive  of  much  calamity 
to  this  place ;  for  Berwick  having  remained  more  than  two-thirds  of  a  century  in  the 
undisturbed  possession  of  the  Scots,  John  Baliol,  provoked  by  his  haughtiness,  in 


of  Rome  was  enforced  against  them.  Meantime,  James  III.  with  the  consent  of  his  parliament,  founded  a 
chapel  royal  in  Stirling  palace :  and,  in  order  to  support  the  dean  and  prebendaries,  the  cantors,  and  other 
officers,  he  suppressed,  by  a  regular  process,  the  monastry  of  Coldingham,  which  he  anneiced  to  this  favourite 
establishment  The  Homes,  thus  disappointed  of  their  prey,  raised  a  rebellion  against  their  sovereign,  whom 
they  met  near  Stirling,  on  the  11th  of  June,  148S,  in  a  disastrous  conflict,  which  left  the  king  without  a 
crown  and  without  his  life.  Lord  Home,  the  bailiff  of  Coldingham,  did  not  long  survive  his  triumph.  But 
in  1509,  Coldingham  was,  by  the  pope's  authority,  withdrawn  from  the  church  d  Durham,  and  placed  under 
the  abbey  of  Dunfermlin.  James  IV/s  natural  son,  Alexander  Stewart,  who  was  already  archbishop  of  St. 
Andrew's  and  abbot  of  Dunfermlin,  was  now  chosen  prior  of  Coldingham.  This  spirited  archbishop  fell,  in 
the  act  of  fighting,  by  his  father's  side,  on  Flodden->field.  The  priory  of  Coldingham  was  conferred,  in  1514, 
on  David  Home,  the  seventh  brother  of  lord  Home.  The  prior  was  invdved  in  the  fate  of  his  fitmily.  Wil. 
liam  Douglas,  a  brother  of  Angas,  obtained  and  reta^ed  possession  of  Coldingham  till  his  death,  in  15^8j 
whatever  efforts  were  made  to  expel  him. 

After  the  death  of  die  intrusive  Douglas,  Adam  was  created  prior  of  Coldingham.  He  retained  it,  during 
different  times,  till  1541.  Adam  was  now  removed  to  Dundreynan,  in  order  to  make  a  vacancy  for  John 
Stewart,  the  natural  son  of  James  V.  who  was  then  an  infant ;  and  who  was  appointed  commendator  of 
Coldingham,  with  the  pope's  consent  During  the  infimcy  of  the  prior,  the  king  enjoyed  the  revenues ;  but 
he  had  to  defend  it  The  English,  in  November,  1544,  seized  the  abbey,  and  fbrtified  the  church  and  stee- 
ple, which  resisted  all  the  efforts  of  the  regent  Arran.  The  abbey  was  burnt  in  Sept  1545,  by  the  earl  of 
Hertford,  during  his  wasteful  inroad,  for  a  conciliatory  purpose.  John  Stewart,  the  prior,  married  lady  Jane 
Hepburn,  the  sister  of  the  well-known  earl  of  Bothwell :  and  he  died  in  1563,  leaving  by  her  two  sons,  Fran* 
ds  and  John.  The  priory  was  conferred  by  James  VI.  on  Francis  Stewart,  the  former  prior's  eldest  son  j 
and  afterwards  he  found  a  new  fiivourite  in  the  earl  of  Home,  to  whom  he  gave  the  whole  estates  of  the  dis* 
solved  priory  of  ancient  Coldingham.  On  the  earl's  death,  in  l6l9»  John,  the  second  son  of  Francis,  earl 
Bothwell,  was  constituted  commendator  of  Coldingham,  Such,  then,  is  the  history  of  the  priory  of  Colding.i 
ham,  which  reflects  so  much  light  on  the  bloody  sc^es  of  the  Scottish  history,  and  illustrates  so  clearly  th^ 
odious  manners  of  those  wretched  times. 

VOL.  I.  3  Y 


8W  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 


1295,  passed  the  Tweed  with  his  «i*my,  and  cmnmitted  eonsideraUe  dq^rcdntioos  in 
England.  His  career,  however,  was  soon  diedced  by  the  fwees  of  £dward»  who,  in 
the  spring  of  1296,  obliged  Baliol  to  resign  his  crown,  and  took  the  town  and  gamsoii, 
which  he  stormed  bothl^  sea  and  land.  In  the  town  tinere  was  a  building  caUed  the 
Sed-kaUf  which  certain  Flemings  possessed  by  the  tenure  of  defending  it  at  1^  times 
against  the  king  of  England.  Tmrty  of  these  maintained  their  ground  for  a  whole 
day  against  the  English  army ;  but  at  night,  the  buildinff  being  set  on  fire,  all  of  them 
perished  in  the  flames.  The  same  day  the  castle  capitmiated ;  and  the  garrison,  ccm- 
^ting  of  two  hundred  men,  marched  out  with  all  the  honours  of  ww,  after  having 
sworn  never  to  bear  arms  against  England. 

The  slaughter  on  this  occasion  was  very  great.  Fordun  says  the  number  of  slain 
was  7500 ;  that  the  streets  ran  with  blood  for  two  days,  and  in  such  quantities  as  to 
make  mills  go.  Boethius  says  also^  the  slain  were  abcmt  7000  in  number,  and  that 
mills  were  actually  set  a-going  with  the  blood.  Matthew  of  Westminster  says,  thitf; 
all  were  slain,  without  distinction  of  tex  or  age,  in  number  6000.  In  the'  instruc- 
tions from  the  regency  and  couiKdl  of  Scodand,  to  their  procurators  at  Rome,  A.  D. 
1301,  it  is  said,  that  after  taking  Berwick,  the  king  and  his  army  ocnnmitted  the  most 
barbarous  cruelties  on  the  inhabitants,  who,  to  the  number  of  almost  8000,  were  slain, 
without  distinction  of  character,  sex,  or  age.  The  churches  afforded  no  protection  to 
those  who  fled  thither ;  after  being  defllea  with  the  blood  of  the  slain,  and  spoiled  of 
all  their  ornaments,  the  king  and  his  followers  made  stables  of  them  for  the  horses  of 
the  army.  This  carnage  may  be  ascribed  to  a  resentment  of  the  cruelties  committed 
the  preceding  year  by  the  men  of  Berwick  and  the  fighting  men  of  !Rfe,  in  attacking 
certain  English  vessels  that  had  entered  the  port,  setting  fire  to  the  ships,  and  putting 
the  several  crews  to  death. 

Berwick,  after  this  catastrophe,  became  fiUed  with  English  inhabitants,  and  the 
kinff  received  the  homage*  of  the  Scots  nobility  there  on  flie  24th  of  August^  1296, 
in  the  presence  of  an  English  parliament  summoned  for  that  purpose.    An  exchequer, 

*  The  oath  of  fealty  was  in  the  following  terms,  as  translated  from,  the  French  of  H.  Knighton,  canon  of 
Leicester,  in  the  History  of  the  English  Parliament,  vol.  i.  Svo.  p.  100. — "  Because  we  are  under  the  subjec- 
tion of  the  thrice  nolile  prince,  and  our  dear  lord  sire  Edward,  king  of  England,  lord  of  Ireland,  and  duke  of 
A  qui  tain,  we  do  faithfully  promise  for  ourselves,  and  for  our  heirs,  upon  pain  of  body  and  estate,  that  we  will 
serve  him  truly  and  loyally,  against  all  manner  of  people  that  may  live  and  die,  whenever  it  shall  be  required 
or  commanded  by  our  said  lord,  the  king  of  England,  or  his  heirs.  That  we  will  hinder  him  from  damage 
as  much  as  we  can,  and  set  upon  his  enemies  with  all  our  forces,  wherever  ^ey  may  be  found;  and  to  the 
end  that  we  may  firmly  keep  and  hold  these  presents,  we  do  bind  ourselves,  our  heirs,  and  our  goods,  and  we 
have  sworn  to  this  upon  the  blessed  evangelists.  Besides,  all  we  that  are  present,  and  every  of  us  separately, 
have  done  homage  to  our  lord,  the  king  of  England,  in  these  words :— - 

"  T  will  be  true  and  loyal,  and  bear  true  faith  and  allegiance,  to  Edward,  king  of  England,  and  his  heirs, 
and  serve  him  with  life  and  limb,  and  do  him  all  earthly  honour,  against  all  manner  of  people  that  may  live 
and  die ;  and  from  henceforth  I  will  not  bear  arms,  nor  be  aiding  in  council  against  him,  or  against  his  heirs, 
on  any  cause  whatsoever.  So  help  me  God  and  all  the  saints.  In  witness  of  these,  we  have  made  these 
letters  patent,  and  sealed  theta  with  our  seals.  Given  at  Berwick  upon  Tweed,  the  28th  day  of  August,  in 
the  ycav  of  the  reign  of  our  said  lord  the  king  of  England  24." 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.    ^  Wt 

for  the  receipt  of  tiie  Scots  revenue,  was  dStaiUisbed  h?re  the  suceee^g  year,  on  the 
same  principles  of  that  at  Westaiiiiater. 

The  English  did  not  remain  kn^g  in  poasesskm  of  this  garrison  town,  for  the  te^ 
nowned  Sir  William  Wallaee,  in  the  year  1297,  took  arms  in  defence  of  the  kingdc^si, 
and  having  appeared  with  his  forces  before  ihe  place,  the  inhabitants  quickly  evacu«* 
ated  it.  Some  writers  blame  Cressingham,  the  king's  treasurer,  for  this  disgraceful 
event,  in  having  n^lected  to  fortify  the  garrison,  agreeably  to  the  express  orders  of 
Edward  himself  The  castle,  however,  which  wasi  strong  and  well  maintained,  after 
a  long  blockade,  was  relieved  by  an  immense  army  of  norse  and  foot  sent  by  the 
regency^ 

W'aUace,  notwithstanding  the  success  with  which  his  insurrection  was  at  first 
crowned,  after  experiencing  different  reverses  of  fortune,  was  shamefully  betrayed 
into  the  hands  of  his  enemies ;  and  in  1305  he  was  executed,  and  one  half  of  his  body 
ordered  to  be  exposed  on  the  bridge  of  Berwick.  The  stature  and  strength  of  this 
hax>  were  gigantic ;  his  aspect  and  address  pleasing  and  attractive ;  he  was  subtle  in 
devising,  asnd  dexterous  in  the  execution  of  the  most  adventurous  and  perilous  projects. 

<<  But  the  day  <»f  his  glory  shall  never  depart,  .     , 

His  bead  unentoanb^d  shall  with  glory  be  palmM ; 
From  his  blood-^treaanng  altar  hb  spirit  shall  stiurt, 
Tho*  the  raven  has  fed  on  hi^  mouldering  heart, 

A  nobler  was  never  embahn'd.^ 

CampbeS, 

King  Edward  ordered  the  countess  of  Buchan  to  be  shut  tip  in  a  wooden  cage,  in 
one  of  the  towers  of  Berwick  castle,  for  having  crowned  Robert  Bruce,  king  or  Scot- 
land^  at  Scone,  arrogantly  assuming  to  herself  the  office  of  her  brother,  the  earl  of 
Fife,  whose  duty  only  it  was,  by  hereditary  right,  to  execute  that  high  office.  During 
six  jrears  die  continued  in  this  confinement,  when  Edward  II.  orcfered  the  constable 
of  Berwick  castie  to  deliver  '^  Isabel,  the  wife  of  John  late  earl  of  Buchan,  to  Henry 
de  Beaumont,  the  husband  of  Alice  Cumy n, .  her  relation." 

After  alternate  successes  and  defeats,  and  the  iU^kept  truces  of  various  years,  Ed- 
waand  proceeded  to  settle  this  litigiited  kingdom,  by  his  ordinance,  for  the  stability  of 
Seothffid :  by  it  the  castle  of  Bearwiek  was  left  in  the  keeping  of  the  chamberlain  o[ 
Scotland,  Sir  John  de  Sandale,  who  was  to  appoint  audi  a  sheriff  for  Berwickshire  as 
he  eouM  answer  for;  and  the  chamberlain  was  entrusted  with  the  town,  for  the 
profits  wherec^  he  was  to  account,  according  to  the  tatent  which  had  been  made,  by 
;flie  king^s  command,  after  its  conquest. 

'  But  new  events  were  at  hand.  The  coronation  of  the  gallant  Roh^t  Bruce  IntMSght 
isvith  it  a  fresh  war,  which  was  equally  bloody  as  the  former,  but  more  fortunate  for 
the  interests  of  Bruce  and  the  independence  of  Scotland.  Edward  I.  with  his  dying 
breath,  ordered  the  prosecution  of  a  vigorous  war  against  North  Britain.  But  e£ 
ward  II.  as  he  was  opposed  by  the  skill  and  valour  and  fortune  of  Bruce,  carried  on 
hostilities  without  success.  From  Carlisle  on  the  west,  and  Berwick  on  the  east, 
most  of  his  inroads  were  made  into  the  Scottish  frontiers.    In  the  years  1810  and 


S79  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

ISll,  Edward  II.  passed  nine  months  in  Berwick,  whence  he  made  some  incursions 
into  the  adjacent  country.  On  the  26th  of  January,  ISll-lS,  the  English  king 
issued,  from  Berwick,  ample  authorities  for  making  a  truce  with  the  Scots,  whom  he 
tried  to  gain ;  but  they  felt  their  own  powers  of  resistance,  under  more  fortunate 
commanders.  Amongst  other  feats  of  gallantry,  Douglas  surprised  the  casde  of 
Roxburgh.* 

*  Roxburgh  is  seated  on  a  vast  and  lofty  knoU^  of  an  oblong  form,  suddenly  rising  out  of  the  plain^  near 
the  junction  of  the  Tweed  and  Teviot  On  the  north  and  west  it  has  been  defended  by  a  deep  moat  and 
outward  rampier  of  earth.  The  south  and  east  were  strengthened  by  an  inaccessible  precipice,  impending 
over  the  Teviot,  some  of  whose  waters  were  diverted  in 'former  times  into  the  castle  ditch,  by  a  dam  obliquely 
crossing  the  stream,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible.  A  few  fragments  of  wall  are  all  that  remain  of 
this  great  strong-hold ;  the  whole  area  being  filled  with  trees  of  considerable  age.  The  impregnable  and 
convenient  situation  of  this  ancient  fortress,  has  connected  its  history  with  some  of  the  most  important  cir« 
cumstances  recorded  in  the  annals  of  Britain.  This  castle  was  used  as  a  stale  prison,  as  well  as  a  royal  rest* 
dence,  during  the  reigns  of  David  I.  and  his  grandsons,  Malcolm  and  William.  In  IS06,  Mary,  the  aister  of 
Robert  Bruce,  was  confined  '*  en  une  Kage,**  within  this  castle.  It  became,  in  other  times,  the  joyous  scene 
of  many  festivities.  Yet,  had  Roxburgh  and  its  casde,  amidst  the  revolutions  of  those  ages,  many  dianges, 
both  fortunate  and  unlucky.  Being  the  safeguard  of  the  border,  it  was  mnendered  to  Henry  II.  by  William 
the  Lion,  as  a  part  of  the  high  price  of  his  freedom.  The  castle  was  restored,  by  the  more  generous  Richard, 
m  1189*  Much  of  the  town  was  burnt,  by  accident,  in  1207*  It  was  fired  by  king  John,  during  his  retreat 
in  1216.  Meantime,  the  bishops  of  Salisbury  and  Rochester,  frightened  from  England  by  the  interdict, 
found  an  asylum  in  1209 ;  the  ibrmer  at  Kelso,  the  latter  at  Roxburgh ;  and  though  they  lived  at  their  own 
expenses,  William,  with  his  usual  generosity,  sent  them  eighty  chalders  of  wheat^  sixty-six  of  malt,  and  eighty 
of  oats.  We  may  thus  perceive  that  the  Scottish  king  abounded  more  in  victuals  than  in  money.  The  war 
of  the  supcession  entailed  on  Roxburgh  a  thousand  changes.  In  1292,  the  English  court  of  king^s  bench  sat, 
for  some  time,  at  Roxburgh;  the  castle  being  entrusted  to  Brian,  the  son  of  Alan.  In  1295,  Baliol  agreed 
that  Edward  I.  should  hold  the  castle  of  Roxburgh,  during  his  war  with  the  French.  It  was  yielded  by  tiie 
steward  of  Scotland  to  the  king  of  England  in  1295.  On  the  20th  of  August,  1296,  the  burgesses  and  whole 
comune  of  Roxburgh  swore  ibahy  to  the  ambitious  Edward,  ta  1 306,  Edward  I.  caused  the  wife  €i  V^liam 
Wysman  to  be  shut  up  In  one  of  the  towers  of  Roxburgh  castle.  After  being  taken  from  the  English  by 
Douglas,  it  remained  in  the  possession  of  its  ancient  owners  until  ldS4,  when  Edward  Baliol,  by  an  insidiooa 
treaty,  conceded  the  county  of  Roxburgh  to  Edward  III.  with  almost  all  the  southern  shires  of  Scotland, 
however,  the  castle  and  town  of  Roxbm*gfa  were  frequently  objects  of  valorous  contest,  during  nore  dian  a 
century  and  a  quarter.  In  1342^  Sir  Alexander  Ramsey,  one  of  the  iH'avest  and  moet  auooessAil  oommandera 
of  the  day,  took  the  castle  of  Roxbuigh  from  the  English  by  sealade.  Ramsey  was  rewarded  with  the  kee]^ 
ing  of  the  castle,  and  with  the  sheriffwick  of  Teviotdale,  of  which  the  envy  o£  the  bastard  Douglas  bereaved 
him  with  his  life.  The  English  regained  the  casde  of  Roxburgh,  on  the  capture  of  D^vid  II.  in  1346;  and 
they  seem  to  have  retained  it,  notwithstanding  every  attempt,  till  1460,  when  James  II.  lost  his  life  in  be« 
sieging  it»  It  was  taken,  after  this  misfortune,  by  the  persevering  vigour  of  Mary  of  Guilder,  his  widowed 
quipen,  The  castle  was  now  levelled  to  the  xock ;  and  the  strength  being  thus  razed,  the  town  fell  into  ruins. 
The  Artress  does  not  appear  to  have  been  restored  or  repaired  until  1547,  when  the  English  army,  led  by  th^ 
lord  protector,  Somerset,  encamped  in  its  vicinity.  That  skilful  general,  observing  its  advantageous  situation, 
determined  to  make  it  tenable.  He  accordingly  reduced  its  size,  filled  up  part  of  the  breaches  in  the  ancient 
walls  with  bankings  of  turf,  and  cast  up  trenches  on  the  east  and  west  ends,  which  he  fortified  with  a  wall ; 
puid,  wh#n  he  dep^rted^  left  the  post  in  chur^  of  Sir  Ralph  Bulmer,  with  a  garrison  of  500  soldiers  and  200 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  278 

E4ward  IL  reflolving  to :  make  the  Soots  feel  his  power,  assembled  an  immense 
army  at  Berwick  in  1314;  it  consisted  of  40,000  horse  (3000  of  which  were  com- 
pletely armed,  horses  and  men),  and  52,000  foot :  they  were  in  part  lodged  within 
the  town,  and  the  rest  in  tents  without  the  walls.  The  carriages  attending  this  army 
were  numerous,  as  no  supplies  could  be  drawn  from  a  country  desolated  by  war,  and 
wasted  by  famine.  Malmesbury  says,  if  they  had  passed  in  one  line,  they  would 
have  extended  sixty  leagues  in  length.  Most  authors  agree,  that  so  fine  an  army  had 
not,  in  the  memory  of  man,  marched  from  England.  Having  drawn  an  additional 
reinforcement  from  the  northern  counties,  the  English  army  ac^anced,  being  divided 
into  ten  columns,  10,000  men  in  each,  commanded  by  leaders  of  the  most  distin- 
guished character :  the  earls  of  Gloucester  and  Hereford  led  the  van ;  the  centre  was 
fed  by  the  king  in  person,  Sir  Giles  d'Argentein  and  Aymer  de  Valence,  earl  of 
Pembroke,  under  him.  The  army  under  these  divisions  is  said  to  have  covered  a 
large  tract  of  country,  and  was  a  sight  august  and  solemn ;  the  whole  scene  being 
made  resplendent  by  burnished  arms  and  ensigns  displayed, 

Robert  Bruce,  with  only  30,000  veterans,  resolutely  placed  himself  between  the 
English  monarch  and  Stirling  castfe,  and  waited  the  approach  of  his  powerful  enemy. 
The  English  fled  before  the  Scottish  phalanx,  and  the  glory  and  stability  of  Bruce's 
tiirone  were  established  upon  the  banks  of  Bannockbum.  King  Edward,  with  a 
body  of  horse,  fled  towards  Berwick,  pursued  by  Sir  James  Douglas,  with  a  party  of 
light  cavahy,  who  effected  nothing  but  taking  up  a  few  stragglers,  that  fell  off*  m>m 
the  king's  troop.  He  first  took  shelter  in  the  castle  of  Dunbar,  from  whence  he  was 
conveyed  by  sea  to  Bambrough  or  Berwick,  It  is  certain  he  was  at  Berwick  the 
third  day  after  his  defeat,  as  he  issued  a  proclamation  from  thence  to  advise  his  sub« 
jects  of  the  loss  of  his  privy  seal,  which  was  restored  to  him  by  Mounthermer,  on  his 
return. 

In  the  year  1315,  the  Scots  attempted  to  take  Berwick  by  surprise,  by  means  of 
their  shipping,  with  which  they  entered  the  river  under  false  colours :  but  being  dis- 
covered by  the  garrison  beiSore  they  began  an  attack,  suffered  considerable  loss  before 
they  could  effect  an  escape.  Edmond  de  Cailaud,  the  Gascon  governor  of  Berwick, 
made  an  inroad  into  Teviotdale,  and  wasted  the  intermediate  country ;  but,  on  his 
retimi,  he  was  intercepted  by  Sir  James  Douglas,  and  slain,  with  many  of  his  Gras* 
cons.  Douglas  now  heard  of  the  vaunt  of  Robert  Nevil,  another  of  the  commanders 
in  Berwick,  that  he  would  encounter  that  eminent  commander  wherever  he  might  see 

pioneers.    The  scite,  both  ci  the  cnstle  and  the  town^  with  other  rights^  were  granted  by  James  IV.  to  Wa}« 
ter  Kerr,  of  Cessford,  a  powerful  baron  on  the  borders. 

I'here  is  a  remarkably  picturesque  view  from  the  fine  plain  that  intervenes  between  the  castle  and  the 
Tweed.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  palace  of  the  duke  of  Roxburgh  piesents  its  extensive  front, 
flanked  with  the  immense  forest  of  Fleurs.  Several  lofty  cliffs  projecrt  over  the  water,  whose  brows  are 
crowned  with  noble  trees^  while  the  elegant  buildings,  and  finely  cultivated  lands^  which  appear  in  every 
direction,  excite  pleasurable  sensations,  compared  with  the  unhappy  period  when  every  yard  of  the  surrouncU 
ing  country  was  stained  with  the  blood  of  the  most  gallant  of  m^p,  and  the  stirength  of  the  island  impirofifably 
wasted  by  a  blind  ap4  erooked  system  of  polftics^ 

I,  VOL.  3  Z 


*r4  HISTORY  AND  DBSCRlFnON  OF 

hii  banner :  Douglas  was  Htms  invited  towards  Berwick,  and  he  burnt  some  vWkgeSf 
and  displayed  his  pennon :  while  much  of  warfare  was  personal,  Nevil  was  thus  pi^ 
Toked  into  the  field,  where  he  fell  before  the  fortune  of  that  valorous  knight 

The  ascendancy  whidi  the  Scots  had  at  length  acquired,  induced  Ecmard  II.  to 
avail  himself  of  the  pope's  interest,  for  obtaining  a  necessary  truce :  but,  while  the  title 
of  king  was  withheld  nt>m  Rruoe,  the  papal  messen^rs  were  told  that  there  could  be 
no  hppes  of  a  treaty.  The  guaidian  of  the  minorities  of  Berwick,  Adam  Newton, 
was  now  sent  to  proclaim  the  papal  truce  in  Scotland.  He  found  Bruce,  with  Im 
army,  in  a  wood,  near  Old  Cambus,  preparing  for  the  assault  of  Berwick.  But,  to 
the  intimations  of  the  minorite,  Bruce  resolutely  answa^  **  I  will  listen  to  no  buUs 
till  I  am  treated  as  king,  and  have  made  myself  master  of  Berwick.**  This  was 
effected  on  the  2ftth  day  of  March,  1818,  partly  by  intrigue,  but  more  by  braverv 
and  address,  and  here  Bruce  dated  many  <^  his  charters,  and  assembled  many  of  his 
parliaments. 

Edward  II.  resolving  to  wipe  off  this  disgrace,  assembled  a  great  army  in  Newca»* 
^  ki  July,  ISI9.  He  advanced  to  Berwick  on  the  1st  of  September,  and  was  ac» 
companied  by  a  fleet  from  the  cinque  p(Hl»,  laden  with  provisions  and  all  kinds  of 
stores.  The  English  fortified  thar  camp,  and  then  proceeded  to  an  assault.  The 
walls  of  the  town  are  described  to  have  been  so  low,  that  an  assailant  might  strike  the 
people  that  defended  them  with  a  spear.  On  the  7th  of  S^tember  they  atteknpted  an 
escaJade,  at  different  parts  in  the  same  time,  and  a  ship  was  directed  to  approach  with  an 
engine,  to  attempt  tne  walls  on  the  side  next  the  haven ;  but  all  these  were  fruitless, 
the  ship  was  left  on  ground  by  ebb  of  tide,  and  burnt  by  the  garrison.  In  the  next 
general  assault,  which  was  made  on  the  ISth  of  September,  the  Englidi  employed  a 
great  machine  called  a  Saw,  constructed  for  holding  and  defending  mat,  who  weie 
moved  in  it  towards  the  foot  of  the  wall,  in  order  to  undermine  and  sap  its  founda- 
tion. Devices  weire  used  to  bum  this  machine,  but  by  throwing  a  stone  of  vast 
weight  from  an  engine,  the  Sow  was  split,  and  her  occupiers  dislodged.  On  an  attack 
of  Marygate,  the  draw-bridge  was  burnt,  and  the  gate  in  great  danger ;  but  forces 
fr^om  the  castle  coming  to  its  defence,  the  assailants  were  obliged  to  retire.  These 
efforts  harassed  and  weakened  the  garrison  considerably,  and  the  town  must  on  an- 
other assault  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  if  Lancaster  had  not  with- 
drawn his  fcnroes  from  the  camp,  exercising  his  msQignant  spirit  at  this  critical  time 
agakist  the  king,  whom  he  hated  most  inveterately.  The  iparl  ci  Murray  and  lord 
Douglas  had  entered  England  with  10,000  chosen  men,  and  penetrated  almost  to  the 
eily  of  York,  the  queen  escaping  with  difficulty.  These  circumstances  determined 
Edward  to  raise  the  siege  of  Berwick.  King  Robert  Bruce,  perceiving  the  import- 
imce  of  this  place,  str^gthened  the  wafls,  and  raised  them  consid^ably  in  height, 
erecting  also  many  new  towers  and  additional  bulwarks  to  the  whole. 

A  twoyears  truce  was  the  just  reward  of  so  many  e£fbrts,  and  of  so  much  enter- 

Snze.  The  war  was  renewed  with  greater  waste  and  misery.  Edward  II.  entered 
erwickshire  in  August,  1S2S,  with  a  formidable  army ;  but  was  obliged  to  retreat 
by  the  poBcy,  rather  than  the  swcwd  of  Bruce,  who  had  a  nation  to  save,  and  a  crown 
to  transmit.    The  English  troops,  as  they  retired,  carried  a  flaming  torch  through 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  375 

Lothian  and  the  Merse,  to  Drybrntf^  abb^,*  where  the  HMnkf  were  shdn,  and  their 
church  profaned.  The  Scots  retdiated  by  a  t%6ix>u»  incurston  into  Yorkshire.  At 
Berwick,  in  March,  183S,  Bruce  negotmted  a  trace,  which  was  to  endure  till  June, 
1336 :  it  was  agreed  that  during  this  period  no  fortresses  should  be  erected  in  Cum* 
berland,  northward  of  the  Tyne,  nor  in  the  shires  of  Berwick,  Roxburgh,  and  Ikun* 
fries.  On  the  7th  of  June,  1S28,  this  important  treaty  was  ratified  by  Kobert  Bruoe, 
at  Berwick,  with  the  ecmsent  of  his  bishops,  earls,  and  barons.  So  great  a  value  did 
the  Scots  put  on  Berwick,  that  they  rather  chose  to  continne  under  the  exc(»nmuni» 
eation  of  tne  pope  than  to  yield  it  to  the  English. 

^  Dry  burgh  abbey  is  seated  upon  a  promontoTy  on  the  brink  of  the  Tweed,  in  the  deep  glootn  of  a  wood, 
being  defended  from  the  northern  blasts  by  a  lofty  hill.  The  principal  part  now  standing  is  supported  by 
■  flne  clustered  pillars.  The  present  proprietor.  At  earl  of  Buchan,  has  displayed  much  taste,  and  expended 
vast  sums,  in  digging  up  from  the  ruins  a  variety  of  stones  of  curious  sculpture,  and  placing  them  in  a  man- 
ner to  attract  and  gratify  the  eye  of  tilie  visitor ;  but  this  arrangement  has  certainly,  in  some  inspects,  lessened 
diat  veneration  which  so  aAdent  an  edifice  is  apt  to  inspire.  This  abbey  was  founded  by  David  I.  in  1 150, 
md  liberal  donattons  were  made  from  many  persons  of  leas  note.  During  die  dnrteenth  century,  the  monaa* 
try  of  Dryburgh  sent  off  two  colonies  of  monka  to  Ireland.  Wflliam,  theabbot  of  Dryburgh,  with  hisoKMik^ 
twore  fealty  to  Edward  f.  on  the  24th  of  Angnat^  1990;  and,  in  return,  Edwaid  issued  writs  to  the  sheriffs 
ef  Berwick,  Roxburgh,  Edinburgh,  and  of  Fife,  to  restore  dieir  property.  Robert  III.  at  his  accession,  with 
the  consent  of  the  bishop  of  St  Andrews,  suppressed  the  convent  of  Cislertian  nuns,  in  South  Berwick,  and 
gave  their  whole  ptc^erty  to  the  canons  of  Drybu^gfa.  These  nuns  were  opidettt;  and  this  circumstance 
may  have  been  their  iGuilt,  as  mudb  as  their  incontinence.  The  hospital  of  Trefbuntain,  in  the  Lamermoor^ 
was  granted  to  the  canons  of  Dryburgh,  in  1486,  bj  John,  abbot  of  Alnwids,  and  confirmed  by  Henry,  the 
bishop  of  St  Andrews.  In  1544,  the  market  town  d  Dryburgh  was  all  bttmt»  eacept  the  church,  by  the 
English  army,  under  Sir  George  Bowes.  In  the  subsequent  year,  the  monastiy  of  Drybuigh  was  plunder^ 
and  burnt  by  the  obdurate  fimadcism  of  liie  earl  of  H^tford.  The  Reformation  decided  its  fkte.  In  1587# 
the  abbey  of  Drybur^  became  invested  in  the  crown,  by  the  general  annexation.  John,  earl  of  Mar,  the 
treasurer  of  Scotland,  seems  to  have  early  cast  his  wishful  eyes  upon  this  abbey ;  and  Henry  Erskine,  hta 
second  son,  was  appointed  its  oommendator.  He  became  lord  Cardross,  and  his  great-grandson  succeeded 
as  earl  of  Buchan,  in  1^5. 

The  ingenious  author  of  the  Scottish  Border  Minstivl^,  in  his  notes  on  the  ballad,  entitled,  ^The  Eve  of 
St.  John,"  relates  the  following  very  singular  and  interesting  circumstance:— About  fifty  years  ago,  an  unfiir* 
tunate  female  wanderer  took  up  her  residence  in  a  dark  vaults  among  the  ruins  of  Dryburgh  abbey,  whid), 
during  the  day,  she  never  quitted.  When  night  fell,  she  issued  firom  this  miserable  habitation,  and  went  to 
the  house  of  Mr.  Halliburton  of  Newmaios,  or  to  that  of  Mr.  Erskine  of  Siieldfidd,  two  gentlemen  of  the 
neighbottihood.  From  their  charity  she  obtained  snch  necessaries  as  die  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  accept 
At  twelve,  each  night,  die  lighted  her  candle,  and  returned  to  her  vault;  assuring  her  friendly  neighbours, 
that,  during  her  absence,  her  habitation  was  arranged  by  a  spirit,  to  whom  she  gave  the  uncouth  name  of 
FatUpi;  describing  him  as  a  litde  man,  wearing  heavy  iron  shoes,  with  which  he  trampled  the  day  floor  of 
At  vaults,  to  dyspel  the  damps.  This  circumstance  caused  her  to  be  rsfiarded,  by  the  well  informed,  with 
eompassion,  as  deranged  in  her  understanding;  and  by  the  vulgar,  with  some  degree  of  terror.  The 
cause  of  her  adopting  this  extraordinary  mode  of  life  she  would  never  explain.  It  was,  however,  believed  to 
have  been  occasioned  by  a  vow,  that,  during  the  absence  of  a  man  to  whom  she  was  attached,  she  would 
never  look  upon  the  sun.  Her  lover  never  r^tumed.  He  ftU  during  the  dvil  war  of  1745*6,.and  she  never 
ttOBe  would  behold  the  li|^t  of  day. 


276  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

The  Scots,  in  June,  1S27,  put  an  end  to  die  truce,  which  seems  not  to  have  been 
much  regarded  by  either  party.  Randolph  and  Douglas  now  entered  England,  at 
the  head  of  20,000  cavalry.  The  warlike  Edward  III,  at  the  age  of  fifteen,  marched 
50,000  men  to  oppose  them.  The  Scottish  commanders,  after  amusing  the  English 
leaders  for  several  days,  retired  into  their  own  wilds,  notwithstanding  all  that  could 
be  opposed  to  their  march  by  skill  or  bravery.  The  young  prince  wept  when  he 
perceived  he  had  been  out-generalled  by  such  experienced  commanders  as  Randolph 
and  Douglas,  in  desultory  warfare.  The  misfortunes  of  the  campaign  of  1327  led  to 
Ihe  treaty  of  Northampton,  in  April,  1328,  which,  with  the  consent  of  the  English 
parliament,  acknowledged  the  sovereignty  of  Scotland  and  the  royalty  of  Bruce.  It 
was  a  fundamental  article  of  this  treaty,  which  will  be  always  remembered  in  the 
Scottish  annals,  that  David,  the  son  of  Kobert  I.  should  marry  Johanna,  the  daughter 
of  Edward  II:  The  princess  was  immediately  conveyed  to  Berwick  with  great  pomp 
and  splendour,  where  she  was  received  by  earl  Murray  and  lord  Douglas,  the  repre- 
sentatives of  the  king,  who  was  then  sick ;  and  the  nuptials  were  celebrated  with 
treat  joy  and  magmficence.  She  obtained  the  appellation  of  Make  Peace^  and 
rought  with  her  the  Ragman  roU,  and  all  the  records  which  had  been  carried  off  by 
Edward  I.  to  be  again  deposited  in  the  archives  of  Scotland. 

Robert  Bruce,  the  restorer  of  the  m<Hiarchy,  died,  at  the  premature  age  of  fifty-five, 
on  the  7th  of  June,  1829.  Never  were  his  prudence,  his  conduct,  his  valour,  and  his 
perseverance,  more  necessary  for  the  welfare  of  his  kingdom.  The  ambition  of  Ed- 
ward III.  renewed  the  pretensions  of  his  grandfather,  in  defiance  of  a  solemn  treaty, 
and  in  contempt  of  two  acts  of  parliament.  Pretences  are  never  wanting,  at  the  call 
of  duplicity.  A  new  war,  which  was  more  bloody  and  wasteful  than  the  former, 
commenced  in  1382,  and  did  not  end  till  1367.  In  1832,  appeared  at  Roxburgh, 
Edward  Baliol,  the  pretender  to  the  Scottish  crown.     Here  he  surrendered  the  inde- 

!)endence  of  Scotlana  to  Edward  III.  as  his  liege  lord.  He  engaged  to  put  the  Eng- 
ish  king  in  possession  of  Berwick,  its  town,  castle,  and  territory,  with  other  lands  on 
the  Marche.  After  some  disasters,  he  even  made  preparations  lor  besieginff  Berwick. 
The  Scots,  convinced  that  the  reduction  of  this  town  would  be  one  of  the  first  ob- 
jects  of  their  enemies'  enterprize,  put  it  into  as  complete  a  posture  of  defence  as  pos- 
sible :  and,  in  order  to  resist  the  formidable  attack  they  dreaded  it  would  sustain, 
they  threw  into  it  ^  garrison  of  chosen  veterans,  appointing  Sir  William  Keith  their 
governor,  and  Patridi,  earl  of  Dunbar,  keeper  of  the  chief  fortress  or  citadel.  The 
king  of  England,  animated  with  all  the  enthusiasm  and  ardour  of  a  young  hero,  re- 
paired to  the  scene  of  action,  before  the  walls  of  Berwick,  where  he  remained  in  per- 
son about  a  month;  when  perceiving,  from  the  strength  of  the  garrison  and  the 
resolute  defence  it  made,  that  the  place  could  not  easily  be  reduced,  ne  led  part  of  his 
army  into  Scotland.  In  this  roaming  expedition  he  penetrated  as  far  as  Dumbarton, 
carrying  carnage  and  devastation  in  his  train.  On  returning  to  Berwick,  glutted  with 
blood  and  loaded  with  spoU,  he  found  that  the  place  still  held  out.  He  tnen  changed 
the  siege  into  a  complete  blockade  both  by  sea  and  land. 

The  besieged,  suffering  by  having  their  supplies  cut  off,  made  many  vigorous  sal* 
lies,  either  with  a  view  to  drive  off  flieir  enemies,  or  to  force  a  passage  through  their 
lines.    They  made  ^  desperate  attack  upon  the  fleet,  by  which  the  greater  part  of  the 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  «77 

navy,  at  that  time  lying  before  Berwick,  was  burnt.  In  this  assault  Sir  WiBfiam 
Seton,  natural  son  of  Sir  Alexander  Seton,  was  drowned  in  endeavouring  to  leap  from 
one  vessel  to  another ;  and  in  a  sally  by  land,  one  of  his  legitimate  sons  was  made 
prisoner.  The  brave  garrison  still  did  not  despair  of  receiving  relief,  and  therefore 
would  not  accede  to  terms  of  capitulation.  Lora  Douglas  had  raised  a  mighty  army^ 
with  which  he  marched  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Berwick ;  but  how  great  was  the 
astonishment  of  the  garrison,  when,  in  full  hopes  of  almost  an  immediate  deliverance, 
instead  of  his  falling  upon  the  English,  Douglas  crossed  the  Tweed,  and,  in  full  view 
of  the  town,  proceeded  along  the  coast  towards  Bambrough  castle,  which,  having 
been  deemed  impregnable,  was  fixed  on  by  Edward  as  affording  a  residence  of  great 
security  for  his  queen,  who  at  that  time  was  lodged  there.  The  eagerness  of  the 
Scotch  still  to  retain  possession  of  Berwick,  impelled  Douglas  to  block  up  the  former 
fortress  for  several  days,  and  to  commit  depredations  in  the  neighbourhood,  flattering 
himself  that  king  Edward's  regard  for  his  queen  would  induce  him  to  raise  the  siege 
of  Berwick ;  but  the  English  monarch  remained  inflexible,  and  could  not  be  moved 
from  his  determined  purposes. 

•  The  garrison  being  now  reduced  to  a  scarcity  of  provisions,  and  sinking  under  the 
apparent  neglect  of  Douglas,  proposed  to  treat,  which  king  Edward  atten&d  to ;  and 
the  capitulation  was  concluded  on  the  16th  of  July,  under  the  following  conditions : 
That  the  town  and  castle  should  be  delivered  up  to  king  Edward  on  the  20th,  pro- 
vided it  should  not  be  relieved  by  200  men  at  arms,  or  by  a  battle ;  that,  in  this  in- 
terval, a  cessation  of  arms  should  take  place ;  that,  in  the  event  of  a  surrender,  the 
lives  and' properties  of  the  inhabitants  should  be  protected ;  that  the  governor  should 
be  permitted  to  resort  to  the  Scotch  army  to  communicate  the  articles.  Sir  William 
Keith  repaired  to  the  Scotch  camp,  and  prevailed  upon  the  commanders  to  at- 
tempt the  relief  of  the  place ;  but  this  measure  was  greatly  disapproved  of  by  several 
of  the  old  and  most  experienced  of  the  Scotch  army  ♦ 

*  During  this  time,  a  transaction  is  reported  to  have  taken  place,  which  sullies  the  lustre  of  Edward's  mill* 
tary  fame,  and  fixes  an  indelible  stain  on  his  memory.  It  stands  upon  record  to  the  following  purport,  by 
Buchanan  and  Boece,  and  other  Scotch  authors  of  credit  Hostages  were  delivered  by  the  Scots  for 
the  performance  of  what  related  to  them  in  the  treaty,  one  of  whom  was  the  eldest  son  of  Sir  Alexander  Se-. 
ton,  who  was  deputy-govemor,  and  who  took  the  command  on  Keith's  reporting  to  the  camp.  Ring  Edward 
had  also  at  this  tune  in  custody  Seton's  younger  son,  who  had  been  taken  prisoner  during  the  assault  made 
on  the  navy.  The  king,  strongly  impressed  with  an  apprehension  that,  if  the  Scotch  army  approached,  he 
might  fail  in  the  capture  of  Berwick,  an  object  of  so  great  importance,  soon  after  Keith  departed,  insisted 
upon  the  instant  surrender  of  the  town,  threatening,  if  the  governor  refused,  he  would  instantly  hang  up  his 
two  sons,  the  hostage  and  the  prisoner,  in  fit>Dt  of  the  ramparts.  In  vain  did  Seton  remonttrate ;  for  Ed- 
ward, deaf  to  all  the  charges  urged  against  him  for  so  flagrant  a  violati«m  of  public  fidth^  ordered  a  gibbet  to 
be  erected  in  full  view  of  the  town,  to  carry  into  execution  his  most  detestable  threat  Seton,  struggliiig 
between  contending  impulses,  that  put  every  sentiment  to  the  test,  would,  it  is  supposed,  have  yielded  to 
nature,  and  thereby  saved  the  lives  of  his  children  by  sacrificing  his  country's  honour  and  his  own,  had  nofe 
the  mother,  with  a  degree  of  heroism  worthy  of  a  Roman  matron,  and  equal  to  the  greatness  of  the  most  ezn 
aHed  mind,  stepped  forward,  aad,  with  the  most  forcible  eloquence,  argued  to  support  his  principles  and 
sustain  bis  trembling  soul    While  the  Inas  of  parental  afikslian  yet  indined  bim  t«  rejiuc,  ahe  withdrew  him 

VOL.  1.  4   A 


878  HISTORY  AND  DBSCRIPTION  OF 

On  the  18th  of  July,  lord  Douglas  marched  his  army  over  tbe  Tweed,  and  en- 
camped at  a  place  called  Dunse-park,  BothuU,  or  BothviHe.  The  English  occu]»ei| 
H  ally  down-hill,  a  very  considerable  eminence,  about  two  miles  aad  a  quarter  north-i 
west  from  Berwick.  This  high  ground,  fully  commandiBg  a  wospect  of  all  the  i^ 
preaches  to  the  town,  afforded  a  most  advantageous  position  mr  attacking  an  army 
advancing  against  it  on  the  side  of  Scotland.    The  Scotch  army  was  formed  into  four 

grand  bodies^  and,  according  to  some  writers,  amounted  to  68,000;  but  this  is 
oubted.  The  number  of  king  Edward's  is  not  positively  stated  by  any  author ;  but 
many  historians  are  of  opinion,  that  the  two  contending  parties  were  nearly  equal  in 
numbers. 

When  both  armies  were  ready  to  commence  the  attack,  the  shock  of  battle  was  for 
a  short  time  suspended,  by  a  Scotchman  of  gigantic  stature,  who  had  obtained  the 
name  of  TumbuU,  on  account  of  a  magnanimous  exploit  by  which  king  Robert  Bruce 
was  rescued  from  the  attacks  of  a  i^d  bull  that  had  unhorsed  him  while  he  was 
punting.  TumbuU,  accompanied  by  a  ^eat  mastiff,  sallied  forth  with  terri6c  strides* 
and,  approaching  the  English  army  with  an  invincible  air,  diallenged  any  p««cMi  in 
it  to  close  with  him  in  single  combat.  After  a  short  pause,  which  such  a  novd  oc- 
currence produced,  the  challenge  was  accepted  by  Sir  Robert  BenhalC)  a  young  Nor- 
folk knight.  Though  inferior  in  stature  to  the  Scotch  champicm,  yet  he  wa3  of 
uncommon  bodily  strength,  and  surpassed  by  iKme  for  adroitness  in  military  achieve- 
ments. The  mastiff,  with  the  utmost  ferocity,  darted  forward;  and  the  undaunted 
knight,  receiving  him  with  a  skilful  blow  upon  the  loins  with  his  sword^  cut  him  in 

Sieces.    The  Scotch  hero  now  advancing,  Benhale,  with  astonishing  a^lity  and  ad- 
ress,  eluded  the  weighty  blows  ainoied  at  him,  and  first  cutting  off  the  left  arm  of  his 
antagonist,  then  struck  off  his  head. 

Notwithstanding  this  disaster,  the  Scotdi  army  made  a  vigorous  effort  to  gem  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  To  animate  the  troc^,  and  render  the  Sanger  equ^,  thi^  lead* 
ers  and  chieftains  dismounted.  But  the  impetuosity  with  which  thev  ascended  the 
steep  put  them  soon  out  of  breath.  The  EngUsh  archers,  who  were  skilfully  stationed 
in  different  parts  of  the  hill,  poured  down  showers  of  arrows  on  the  close  battalions  of 
the  Scotch  troops,  which  made  a  shocking  slaughter  among  them.  They  also  suffered 
greatly  by  the  rolling  down  of  large  stones  from  the  height,  and  in  a  short  time  were 
thrown  into  confusion.  The  English  commanders,  perceiving  this,  ordered  their 
spearmen  and  men  at  arms  instautfy  to  attack  them,  by  which,  being  pressed  whilst 
breathless  and  dispirited,  multitudes  feU,  victims  to  their  rdlentless  opponents.  Thi;^ 
forced  the  Scots  often  to  retreat,  but  they  always  rallied  again,,  and  with  great  bravery 
returned  to  the  field,  firmly  maintaining  the  conflict,  till  Douglas,  their  ge^ieral,  was 

• 

fiom  the  shockiof^  spectacle,  thtt  he  mi^bt  piesepve  bis  reetitiide,  though  at  the  mttHimMe  prke  of  his  two 
«0Q8.  EdwAvd,  with  an  unrelenti»ig>  heart,  put  them  both  to  death,  and  Seton  kept  poMeesion  of  the  towiL 
SoMie  historiane  have  questioned  the  truth  of  diis  horrid  a€t;  but  tradi<ioQ,  which  i«  usually  fiatfafiil  m  such 
eases,  still  points  out  the  spot  where  it  was  perpetrated.  It  is  a  oDBsiderable  eminenoe,  situated  on  ^c  santh 
side  of  thftviver,  aKttle  above  the  bridge  well,  and  has  e^ier  since  been  termed  Hang-a^yke  NooL  Two 
humaa  skulls  are  also  preserved  in  the  poor«hoa8e  at  Tweedmoutb,  which  have  been  handed  dow»  through 
many  sueceasive  ages  as  the  skuUe  of  Sir  Alexander  Setflin'stifo  sens.  - 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  ^^ 

mortally  wounded  by  a  spear,  which  fatal  catastrophe  readung  the  ears  of  the  Scotch 
forces,  they  became  pamc-struek,  and  a  total  rout  ensued.  The  carnage  which  fol-r 
lowed  was  dreadful^  for  the  servants  ^itrusted  with  the  care  of  the  horses  fled»  leaving 
behind  their  masters,  a  prey  to  the  devouring  sword  of  a  conquering  foe.  EdwarC 
commanding  in  person  a  chosen  bri^de  of  cavalry  and  archers  eqmpped  on  horse- 
back, att^med  by  lord  d'Arcy  with  his  Irish  trocqps,  led  on  the  pursuit,  and  conducted 
the  slaughter,  so  that  the  country,  for  the  distance  of  five  miles  from  the  field  of 
battle,  was  strewed  with  the  carcases  of  the  slain.  The  English  historians  set  forth, 
that  the  Scots  lost,  on  that  fatal  day,  eight  earls,  90  knights,  400  esquires,  and  35^000 
privates.    ,  . 

It  is  justly  doubted  whether  the  whole  number  of  the  Scottish  army  amounted  to 
so  many ;  several,  howeva-,  of  the  Scotch  nobUity,  and  a  great  number  of  the  gentry, 
were  taken  prisoners,  whom  B€)eee  ehai^es  Edward  with  havii^  barbarously  put  to 
death  the  day  after  this  bloody  battle.  Douglas,  before  he  fell,  displayed  many  strike 
ing  p9XK>fs  of  true  bravery  and  distinguished  heroism :  the  spot  where  he  met  his  fate 
18  to  this  day  called  Douglas's  Dyke.  The  English  historians  diminish  the  number 
of  their  slaui  beyond  all  bounds  of  probability.  The  Scotch  writers  admit  of  tha 
Soots  having  lost  10,000  men.  The  oay  after  this  battle^  the  castle  and  town  of  Ber^ 
wick  was  surrendered  to  kmg  Edward,  who  faithfully  observed  the  articles  of  capitula^ 
ti%>n.  He  remained  some  days  in  Berwick  to  refresh  himself  and  his  army,  and  ordered 
a  public  thanksgiving  to  be  observed  throughout  his  dominions ;  and,  as  a  further 
mcmument  of  pious  gratitude,  he  made  a  donation  of  £  20  per  aimum  to  the  Cister- 
tian  nuns,  near  to  whose  convent  the  battle  was  fought,  together  with  complete  repa^. 
lation  of  all  damages  done  to  the  conventual  church  and  otlier  buildings.  ''  Thus," 
says  Ridpath,  **  affecting,  like  most  other  conquerors,  to  draw  heaven  to  his  party, 
and  to  regard  the  success  aeecnnpaJiying  the  most  unjust  enterprises  as  a  proof  of  the 
pecuUaor  nvoiu*  of  the  Deity." 

King  Edward,  being  detamined  to  retain  Berwick,  appointed  lord  Henry  Percy 
governor  of  the  castle,  and  gave  a  commission  to  him  and  the  earl  of  March  to  act  aa 

C it-wardens  of  all  the  country  on  this  side  the  Scottish  sea,  where  the  terms  of  peace 
been  reeeived.  For  seeunB^  the  town  of  Berwick  in  his  allegiance,  he  demanded 
twelve  hostages  to  be  chosen  out  of  the  children  of  the  families  of  the  best  rank  and 
reputatbn  in  the  pibtce ;  eight  of  whom  be  placed  at  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  and  foiu* 
at  York.  Edward  Baliol,  the  tool  of  facticm  and  ambition,  did  homage  to  king  Ed-* 
ward  at  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  in  June,  1334,  his  parliament  having  ratified  the 
treaty  of  Roxburgh,  by  which  the  castle,  town,  and  county  of  Berwidk,  with  their 
appendages,  wece  to  be  aanexed  to  the  crown  of  England  for  ever. 

In  October,  1985,  king  Edwasd  being  at  Berwick,  appointed  the  reward  promised 
William  de  Pressen  for  seizing  the  eari  of  Murray,  guardian  of  Scotland.  Before 
Edward  left  this  town,  he  also  g^ranted  letters  of  protection  for  six  convoys^  with  a 
retinue  consisting  of  40  horsemen,  coming  from  I>Eivid  de  Bruce  out  of  France,  to 
treat  with  the  nfondos  and  ambassadors.  He  also  gave  orders  to  bis  exchequer  there 
for  the  payment  of  five  marks  a  day  to  Baliol,  his  vassal  king,  to  assist  him  in  his 
daily  expenses.  In  the  year  1389,  lord  John  Mowbray  was  governor  of  Berwick. 
His  garrison  consisted  of  ISO  men  at  arms^  100  halberdiers,  and  SOO  ardiers. 


380  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

In  1340,  king  Edward  III.  was  at  this  place  with  an  army  of  40,000  foot  and  6000 
horse.  Next  year  he  celebrated  the  festival  of  Easter  here,  and  held  a  tournament,  in 
which  twelve  Scottish  knights  entered  the  lists  with  twelve  of  Edward's  train.  This 
spectacle  was  exhibited  with  that  solenm  pomp  and  great  magnificence  peculiar  to 
tnose  times ;  but,  unfortunately,  from  the  animosity  which  had  long  subsisted  be- 
tween the  two  nations,  this  mock  encounter  was  carried  on  with  so  much  rancour  and 
inveteracv,  that  two  Scottish  knights  were  slain,  as  also  Sir  John  Twiford,  an  Eng- 
lish knight. 

In  1348,  the  Scots  offered  to  ransom  their  king,  David  Bruce,  taken  at  the  battle 
of  Durham ;  but  their  proposition  being  haughtUy  received,  the  Scottish  borderers 
were  provoked  to  fresh  outrages.  Entering  suddenly  the  marches  of  England  in 
considerable  bodies,  they  laid  waste  the  country  by  fire  and  sword ;  and  carrying  off 
many  prisoners,  extorted  extravagant  sums  for  their  ransom.  The  English  wardens, 
seeming  for  a  while  to  neglect  these  injuries,  proclaimed  a  great  tournament  to  be 
held  at  Berwick ;  to  which  many  of  the  Scots  securely  resorting,  without  dread  of 
danger,  were  suddenly  attacked  by  a  body  of  English  placed  in  ambush,  who  killed 
some  of  the  Scots  and  made  others  prisoners.  But  one  of  the  most  general  and 
dreadful  plagues  recorded  in  all  history,  breaking  out  this  year  in  England,  and  the 
next  in  Scotland,  where  it  is  said  to  have  destroyed  about  a  third  part  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, gave  a  check  to  the  ferocity  of  the  contending  nations ;  so  that  the  truce  was 
thenceforth  better  preserved. 

On  the  Sd  of  October,  1857,  all  the  artides  for  delivering  up  the  captive  king  were 
concerted  at  Berwick.  Besides,  it  was  agreed  upon,  that  the  ransom  money  should 
be  paid  there,  at  Norham,  or  Bambrough.  On  failure  of  performing  these  articles,  a 
second  treaty  succeeded,  with  a  truce  of  fourteen  years,  which  stipukted  that  56,000 
marks  were  to  be  paid  by  yearly  instalments  of  4000  marks  each.  In  the  29th  year 
of  the  rei^  of  kin^  Edward  III.  that  is,  in  the  year  1855,  he  then  b^g  on  an  expe- 
dition to  Prance,  tne  Scots  surprised  Berwick  in  the  month  of  Novemoer.  Thomas 
Stewart,  earl  of  Angus,  in  concert  with  the  earl  of  March,  procured  a  great  number 
of  ships,  and  filled  them  with  veteran  warriors,  whom  they  disembarked  in  a  dark 
night  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Tweed.  They  thence  moved  imobserved  to  the 
foot  of  the  wall ;  and,  in  the  first  dawn  of  returning  day,  applied  their  scaling  ladders 
at  the  port  called  Cowgate.  William  Towers,  the  first  who  gained  the  top  of  it> 
being  bravely  followed  oy  his  companions,  the  English  on  guard  were  very  soon 
overpowered,  but  not  without  making  a  forcible  resistance.  Sir  Alexander  Ogle» 
captain  of  the  town,  with  two  other  English  knights,  were  shun.  The  conquerora 
lost  six  knights  of  note,  besides  a  considerable  number  of  inferior  rank.  Upon  this^ 
most  of  the  townsmen  fled  in  the  greatest  consternation,  by  the  gates  or  over  the 
walls.  The  whole  wealth  of  the  phwe,  reported  to  have  been  very  great,  fell  a  prey 
to  the  Scots.  The  En^ish  in  the  castle,  concerting  with  Sir  John  Copdand,  the 
person  who  had  taken  l)avid,  king  of  Scotland,  prisoner  at  the  battle  of  Durham, 
srcretly  resolved  to  introduce  into  it  a  number  of  men,  who  should  in  the  night-time 
endeavour  to  enter  the  town  through  Douglases  Tower,  and  attack  the  Scottish  gairi« 
son.  The  Scots,  aware  of  their  critical  situation,  and  ea^er  of  maintaining  the  im^ 
portant  post  they  had  so  bravely  gained,  anxious  also  of  reducing  the  castle,  they 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  281 

were  at  the  utmost  pains  to  discover  the  intentions  of  their  enemies,  in  which  they 
isucceeded.  Upon  this,  they  assaulted  and  carried  Douglas's  Tower,  and  defended 
both  it  and  the  town  against  the  English  in  the  castle,  and  those  forces  that 
had  come  to  their  aid ;  aU  the  attempts,  however,  which  the  Scots  made  on  the  castle 
itself  were  ineffectual.  Garentiere,  a  French  knight^  and  those  who  had  accompanied 
him,  distinguished  themselves  in  this  affair.  Robert  Stewart,  the  guardian,  soon  after 
repairing  to  Berwick,  carried  off  the  Frenchmen ; .  and,  after  conferring  all  due  ho- 
nours upon  them,  sent  them  to  their  own  country. 

We  have  here  a  strong  proof  of  the  great  importance  in  which  this  town  was  held 
in  those  days ;  for  king  Edward,  who  was  in  BVance,  upon  receiving  intelligence  of 
the  successful  efforts  of  his  enemies,  instantly  set  out  for  his  metropolis,  where  he 
only  staid  three  days,  though  his  parliament  was  then  sitting.  Bending  his  course 
northwards,  he  arrived  before  Berwick  on  the  14th  of  January,  A.  D.  1366,  at  the 
head  of  a  large  army,  which  he  had  collected  together  by  means  of  summoning  all  the 
fighting  men  of  his  several  counties  to  join  him.  His  navy  having  by  this  time  an- 
chored in  the  mouth  of  the  Tweed,  he  besieged  the  town  both  by  sea  and  land.  The 
castle  still  holding  out  for  him,  he  entered  it,  attended  by  his  guards,  intending  to  let 
down  the  draw-bridge,  and  to  attack  the  town  in  that  quarter,  while  he  should  direct 
an  assault  to  be  made  by  his  army  at  the  same  time,  upon  other  parts  of  the  wall. 
Sir  Walter  Manny,  a  brave  warrior,  was  also  employed  in  conducting  a  mine  below  the 
wall,  by  the  help  of  certain  miners  brought  from  the  Forest  Deian.  These  formidable 
combinations  of  force  and  of  art,  led  the  Scottish  garrison  to  determine  to  offer  terms 
of  capitulation,  which  being  agreed  on,  they  were  permitted  to  mardi  out  with  safety. 

The  king  made  considerable  additions  to  the  new  fortifications,  and  strengthened 
the  fortress  with  many  new  works.  In  the  year  1S77,  seven  intrepid  Scotchmen  took 
possession  of  Berwick  castle  by  storm  in  the  ni^t,  who  continued  masters  of  it  for 
eight  days,  although  the  garrison  was  all  that  time  attacked  by  7000  English  archers 
and  3000  cavalry,  and  only  lost  two  of  their  number,  which  had  increased  to  48,  when 
they  were  subdued  and  put  to  the  sword.  Upon  entering  the  castie,  they  kUled  the 
governor.  Sir  Robert  Boynton,  but  liberated  his  lady  for  a  ransom  of  2000  marks. 
When  the  earl  of  Northumberland  summoned  these  heroes  to  surrender,  they  boldly 
replied,  "  That  they  would  not  yield  it  either  to  the  king  of  England  or  Scotland,  but 
would  retain  and  defend  it  for  the  king  of  France." 

In  1384,  the  Scotch  got  possession  of  Berwick  by  the  corruption  of  the  deputy- 
governor,  Henry  earl  Percy.  The  duke  of  Lancaster,  at  enmity  with  Henry,  and 
possessing  the  king's  ear,  turned  this  circumstance  greatly  to  the  earl's  disadvantage, 
so  that  he  was  attainted  of  high  treason,  and  his  estates  forfeited.  The  earl,  impressed 
with  the  idea  that  his  immediate  presence  before  Berwick  might  be  of  the  utmost 
consequence,  besieged  the  tovm  with  a  great  army;  but  the  secret  application  of 
SOOO  marks  spared  the  effusion  of  blood,  and  the  place  was  regained.  This  success 
operated  so  powerfully  as  to  procure  the  king's  pardon,  and  the  restitution  of  his  ho^ 
nours  and  possessions. 

In  the  year  1405,  a  conspiracy  was  formed  against  king  Henry  IV.  in  which  the 
earl  of  Northumberland  and  several  others  were  the  principal  leaders.  The  earl  held 
possession  of  the  castie  of  Berwick,    On  his  hearing,  however,  that  Hemy  was  faring- 

VOL,  I.  4  B 


28S  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

ing  agnin^t  >iim  97»000  men,  with  engineers  and  artillery  properly  fitted  for  a  siege, 
he  ireUred  privately  into  Scotland.  The  royal  army  advanced  to  Berwick,  with  some 
engines  of  destruction  which  had  never  before  been  brought  against  it,  and  which 
Spoed,  upon  t|be  authority  of  Walsingham,  says,  were  on  this  occasion,  for  the  first 
time,  employed  in  Britain.  These  engines,  which  are  now  known  by  the  name  of 
cannon,  w^re  of  a  large  bore,  and  were  formed  by  iron  bars,  bound  together  with 
hoops.  The  first  discharge  from  one  of  them  demolishing  a  principal  tower,  the  gar- 
rison was  thrown  into  such  consternation,  that  an  instant  surrender  ensued.  The 
governor,  Sir  Henry  Bolton,  and  Blenkinsm,  underwent  immediate  decapitation; 
and  the  remaining  part  of  the  garrison  committed  close  prisoners.  As  the  royal  army 
was  returning,  Alnwick  castle  was  surrendered  by  Henry  earl  Percy,  of  Athol,  and 
William  Clifford,  who  had  the  command,  on  the  same  terms  of  capitulation  as  had 
been  granted  to  the  garrison  of  Warkworth.  On  the  death  of  king  Henry  V.  m 
France,  and  the  accession  of  his  infant  son,  the  Scots,  A,  D.  1422,  invaded  England. 
The  governor  of  Sqotlaiid  invested  Berwiok,  while  earl  Douglas  besieged  Roxburgh ; 
but  both  those  attempts  proved  abortive. 

In  Leland's  Collectanea  are  the  following  notes : — **  Edward  erle  of  March,  because 
kinff  I^nry  had  broken  covenauntes,  was  made  king  at  Westminster,  Anno  D.  1459. 
And  strayte  king  Edward  rode  northward,  and  at  Towton,  not  far  from  York,  on 
Palmes  Sunday  advengid  his  fathers  detih,  and  wan  the  feld,  where  were  slayn  xxM 
people  on  both  parties.  The  erle  of  Northumberland,  the  lord  Clifford,  Syr  John 
Jjfevil,  the  erle  of  West  Merlandes  brother,  and  Andrew  Trollop  were  killed  at  this 
tvme.  Kiag  H^ry,  the  prinqe^  the  queen,  the  duke  of  Somerset,  Henry  duke  of 
Excestre,  the  lord.  Roos,  Syr  John  F<»:tescue  chief  judge  of  Englsmd,  ana  Tailbois 
erle  of  Kyme,  bein^  at  York,  and  hering  of  this,  fled  first  to  Newcastelle,  and  then 
to  Berwdke,  ddy venng  it  to  the  Scottes.*' 

Upon  a  rupture  with  Scotland  in  the  year  1480,  the  English,  in  the  winter,  laid 
9ifge  to  Berwick,  by  sea  and  land,  with  a  great  force ;  but  were  obliged  to  retire  with 
dij^raee.  King  Edward  IV.  in  the  year  1482,  about  the  beginning  of  July,  marshal- 
led  his  army  at  Alnwick,  amounting  to  22,000  men,  the  van  of  which  was  led  by 
Henry  earl  of  Northumberland.  So  great  a  franco  appearing  imexpectedlv  on  the 
banks  of  the  Tweed  opposite  to  Berwick,  the  town  made  no  resistance^  and  was  im-» 
mediately  seized  by  the  English.  Lord  Hales,  who  commanded  the  castle,  havinff 
answered  that  he  wa9  determined  not  to  surrender  it,  4000  men,  imder  the  oonunand 
of  lord  Stwley,  Sir  John  Elrington,  and  Sir  William  Parr,  were  left  to  besiege  it, 
whilst  the  main  army  marched  into  Scotland.  The  great  confusion  which  shcHrtly 
after  took  place  in  th^  Scottish  state,  it  is  said,  was  lord  Hales's  sole  motive  for  sur- 
rendering the  castle  on  the  24th  day  of  the  succeeding  August,  he  having  no  hope  of 
succours.  On  tb^  succeeding  truce,  Berwick  was  given  up  to  England,  and  the  Scots 
^figaged  never  again  to  attempt,  by  any  art,  the  reduction  of  it ;  since  which  time  it 
has  cotistantly  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  crown  of  England. 

In  the  reigns  of  king  Richard  III.  and  king  James  III.  of  Scotland,  Commissioners 
were  appoiiited  by  the  two  crowns,  to  set  the  limits  of  Berwick ;  on  which  occasion 
the  diluted  ground  was  agreed  to  remain  uncultivated,  unbuilt,  and  uninhabited. 
In  Urn  treaty  and  c^mvention  entered  into  by  kmg  H^tny  VII.  and  James  IV.  king 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  889 

of  Scotland,  A.  D.  1502,  Berwick  was  acknowledged  as  a  neutftd  dr  independent 
state  * 

On  the  10th  day  of  October,  A.  D.  1525,  a  treaty  was  concluded  at  Berwick,  be* 
tween  the  commissioners  of  king  Henry  VIII.  and  king  James  V.  for  a  three-years 
peace :  and  in  the  year  1528,  the  truce  was  renewed,  and  the  peace  continued  for  five 
years. 

*  In  the  month  of  January,  A.  D.  1502^  James  IV.  khsg  of  Scotland,  espoused  Margaret,  eldest  daughter 
of  king  Henry  VII.  In  Leland's  Collectanea  is  a  record^  styled, ''  The  Fyancelles  of  Margaret,  eldest  daugh* 
ter  of  king  Henry  VII.  to  James  king  of  Scotland :  together  with  her  departure  from  England,  journey  into 
Scotland,  her  reception  and  marriage  there,  and  the  great  feasts  held  on  that  account  Written  by  John 
Younge,  Somerset  herald,  who  attended  the  princess  on  her  journey."  As  the  ceremonies  attending  her 
journey  through  Northumberland  give  us  a  striking  representation  of  the  magnificence  of  those  times,  they 
are  wortliy  attention. 

'*  The  XXIIIIth  day  of  the  said  monneth  (June)  the  qwene  departed  from  Durham,  accompaiiyd  by  hyr 
noble  company,  as  she  had  beene  in  the  dayes  past,  in  iayr  manere  and  good  ordre,  for  to  com  to  the  towne 
of  New  Castel).  Thre  mylle  fore  thens  came  to  her  the  prior  of  Tynemouth,  well  apoynted,  and  in  his  <k>m- 
pany  XXX  horsys.  Hys  folios  in  hys  liveray.  And  ther  was  in  lyk  wys  Syr  RawfT  Harbotelle,  knyghtj 
richly  apoynted,  well  mounted,  and  hys  folks  in  his  liveray  to  the  numbre  of  XL  horsys.— At  the  intrynge 
of  the  said  towne  of  New  Castell,  the  qwene  apoynted  hyr,  and  intlred  in  noble  astat.  Ich  lord  and  others 
tuke  newe  horsys  rychly  apoynted,  in  special  th'  earl  of  Northumbrelaund,  as  in  the  manere  of  the  entrynge  of 
York,  and  hys  folks  in  lyke  wys.— >Upon  the  bryge  cam  in  processyon  rychly  revested  the  college  of  the  said 
towne,  and  with  them  the  Freres  Carmeletg  and  Jaoobtos  with  the  croseys,  the  wich  war  gyffen  to  the  said 
qwene  to  kysse,  as  before,  by  the  archbyschop.— After  them  was  the  mayr  of  the  said  towne,  aeomparyned  of 
the  sdieryfifea  and  aldermen,  well  apoynted,  on  foot  The  wich  recey ved  the  said  qwene  honorably :  and 
after  the  recey vyng  the  said  mayr  monted  on  horsebak,  beryng  his  masse  before  hyr. — At  the  bryge  end, 
ap«i  the  gatt,  war  many  children,  revsted  of  aorpelia,  uyngying  mellodidUBly  hympnea»  and  playing  on  in- 
stmmentg  of  many  sortes^— Within  the  said  towne,  by  ordre,  the  bourgea  and  habitants  war  honnestly 
^loynted.  The  strey  tts  war  hanged>  and  the  wyndow  loupps,  tepps,  and  schipps  was  so  full  of  people,  gen« 
tylmen  and  gentylwomen,  in  ao  gT«at  nombre,.  that  it  was  a  pkaysur  for  to  se*  But  they  maid  n(m  sound  of 
artyllery  md  ord}nanoe.-*Ia  saeh  stett  and  fayrasiiy,  wair  the  said  qwene  brought  and  conveyed  to  the 
Freres  Austyns,  where  she  was  lodged,  and  honestly  reoeyved  by  thee  rev^^sted  with  the  croese,  in  the  maittire 
as  it  is  rehersed  befor.  And  when  Ae  wa»  broi^t  to  hyr  lodgjrDg.  every  men  drew  hym  to  hys  awn. — ^The 
next  day  after^  being  the  XXVth  day  of  the  said  monneth,  Sannt  Jamys  day,  she  abode  i^the  day  in  the 
said  towne,  and  was  at  the  church  masse  very  nobly  aocoiai|Miyned-»That  nen  day,  at  even,  the  erle  of 
Norlhumbrelaund  made  to  many  lords,  kny^ta,  and  others,  a  goodeley  baunkst,  whieh  lasted  to  mydnygfat^ 
for  cause  of  the  games^  dauncea,  sports,  and  songs,  with  force  of  ypocras,  succres,  and  other  metts  of  many 
delicyouses  maners.-^To  the  said  New  Castell  cam  the  lord  Daere  of  the  north,  aceompayned  of  many  gen- 
tylmen,  honestly  apoynted,  and  hys  folks  arayd  in  his  liveray. 

*'  The  XXVIth  day  of  the  said  monneth  die  said  qwene  departed  from  the  said-  place^  after  the  custome 
precedent,  varey  uehly  and  in  fayr  array.  And  the  sayd  mi^r  conveyd  her  out  of  the  said  towne,  and  after 
tuke  ly  ve  of  her.-*Haff  a  mylle  owt  of  the  said  towne  was  Syr  Humfrey  Lysle  and  the  prior  of  Bryngbum^ 
well  apoynted  and  well  borst^  to  the  nombre  of  XX  horses.  Their  folks  al>ayd  of  their  liveray.  And  a  nqrlle 
foom  the  said  towne  was  in  <m]re  the  scheryffe  of  Northumbrelaund,  Syr  Rawff  Evers,  in  company  of  many 
other  g^ntylmen,  yaxey  well  apoynted,  their  folks  doCfaed  in  thehr  liveray,  well  monted.  And  with  them  wet 
many;  honests  folka  of  the  countre,  with  spera  and  bowes^  in  jackets,  to  the  Bemlnre  of  two  hondreth  hany^^*^ 
With  the  aam  fayr  company  was  the  said  qwene  conveyd  to  Morpath,  and  by  the  towne  passed  in  &yr  otdre^ 


284  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

Henry  VIII.  after  inflictiiig  many  a  wouncl  on  Berwickshire  and  on  the  coiintry 
adjoining,  left  his  odious  courtship  of  Mary  Stewart  to  he  prosecuted  hy  his  son  Ed- 
ward VI.  a  younger  lover,  hut  41  more  wasteful  invader  of  his  mistress's  kingdom. 
The  councils  of  Edward  VI.  erideiavoured  to  obtain,  hy  ravage,  what  they  wanted 
address  to  gain  by  managemanti  Accordingly,  the  earl  of  Hertford,  then  created 
duke  of  Somerset,  in  August  marched  to  Berwick,  with  an  army  of  18,000  men, 

wher  ther  was  much  people;  and  so  she  went  to  the  abbay,  wher  ahe  was  well  receyTed  by  the  abbot  and 
religyouB  revested^  at  the  gatt  of  the  churchy  with  the  croase.  And  after  the  recey  vyng  she  was  conveyd  to 
her  lodg3mgs  in  the  said  place  for  the  sam  nyght. 

''  The  XXVI  Jth  day  of  the  said  monneth,  the  qwene  departed  from  Morpath^  after  the  custom  before,  to 
goo  to  Alnewyck,  a  place  of  the  erle  of  Northumbrelaund.  And  in  half  of  the  way  cam  before  hyr^  Maister 
Henry  Gray,  esquier,  well  apoynted.  In  hys  company  many  other  gentylmen,  and  his  folks  well  monted 
and  arayed  in  his  liveray,  to  the  nombre  of  a  hondreth  horsys.— Two  my  lie  from  the  say  d  place,  the  said  erle 
cam  and  mett  hyr,  well  acompayned,  and  brought  hyr  thorough  hys  park,  where  she  kylde  a  buk  with  her 
bow.  After  which  she  was  conveyde  to  the  said  castell,  where  she  and  hyr  company  was  welcomed  by  the 
said  lorde,  the  wich  maid  hyr  varey  good  chere.— The  next  day,  the  XXVI I Ith  day  of  the  said  monneth,  she 
was  all  the  hoU  day  in  the  said  castell,  and  by  the  lorde  well  cheryst  and  hyr  company. 

''  The  XXIXth  day  of  the  said  monneth  die  said  qwene  departed  from  Alnewyk,  for  to  go  for  Barrwyk, 
and  at  half  of  the  way,  named  Bellefbrd,  she  bay  ted.  For  Syr  Thomas  Darcy,  capittayne  ^the  said  Barr- 
wyk, had  maid  rady  her  dynner  at  the  said  place  very  well  and  honnestly. — For  that  the  said  Maister  Henry 
Grays  abouffe  named  is  scheryfe  of  Ellaund  Shyre  and  Northumbrelaund  Shyre,  he  bore  his  rod  before  the 
laid  qwene,  sens  the  entrynge  of  the  said  lordships  to  Barrwyk. — Betwyx  Alnewyk  and  Barrwyk  cam  to  the 
qwene  Maister  Rawff  Wodrygton,  having  in  hys  company  many  gentylmen  well  apoynted.  His  folks  arayd 
in  liveray,  well  horsed,  to  the  nombre  of  an  hondreth  horsys.— At  the  comyng  ny  to  Barrwyk  was  shot  or 
ordonnaunce,  the  wich  was  fayr  for  to  here.  And  ny  to  the  said  place,  the  qwene  drest  her.  And  ichon,  in 
fiiyr  aray,  went  the  on  after  the  other  in  fayr  ordre, — ^At  the  entrynge  of  the  bryge  was  the  said  capittayne, 
wdl  apoynted,  and  in  hys  company  hys  gentylmen  and  men  of  annes,  who  receyved  the  said  qwene  into  the 
said  place.— At  the  tother  end  of  the  bryge  toward  the  gatt,  was  the  maister  marshall  oompayned  of  his  com- 
pany, ichon  bearing  a  stafie  in  his  haund.-— After  hym  was  the  college  revested  with  the  croeae,  the  wieh  waa 
gyffen  hyr  for  to  kysse  by  th'  archbiachop  as  before. — ^At  the  gatt  of  the  said  towne  was  the  maister  porter, 
with  the  gard  and  soyars  of  the  said  place,  in  a  row  well  apoynted.  Ichon  of  those  had  a  hallebarde  or  other 
ataffe  in  his  haund,  as  the  others.  And  upon  the  said  gatt  war  the  mynstraylls  of  the  said  capittayne,  playng» 
of  their  instruments.— -In  the  midds  of  the  said  towne  was  the  maister  chamberlayn,  and  the  mayr,  aocom*' 
payned  of  the  bourges  and  habitaunts  of  the  said  place,  in  fayr  ordre,  and  well  apoynted.— In  such  Ikyr  ordre 
and  company  she  was  conveyd  and  brought  to  the  castell,  wher  she  was  receyed  by  the  lady  D'Arcy  hon- 
nestly accompayned.— The  XXX  and  XXXIth  days  of  the  said  monneth,  the  qwene  tarried  at  Barrwyk, 
where  she  had  great  chere  of  the  said  capittayne  of  Barrwyck,  and  hyr  company  in  likewys.— The  sam  day 
was  by  the  said  capittayne,  to  the  pleasur  of  the  said  qwene,  gyffen  corses  of  chasse  within  the  said  towne, 
with  other  sports  of  bayrs  and  of  doggs  togeder. 

^*  The  first  day  of  August  the  qwene  departed  from  Barrwyk  for  to  go  to  Lamberton  kerke  in  varey  fkyr 
company^  and  well  apoynted.-— First,  of  the  archbjrschops  and  bischops,  the  erles  of  Surrey  and  of  Northum- 
Iwelaund,  the  Idrd  Dacres,  the  lord  Scroop  and  his  son,  the  lord  Gray,  the  lord  Liatemer,  the  lord  chamber- 
lldn,  Maister  Polle,  and  other  nobles  and  knyghts.  The  young  gentylmen  were  well  apoynted  at  tlieir 
devises,  and  dier  was  fou  much  of  cloth  of  gold,  as  of  other  ryche  rayments.  Their  horsys  frysks  in  hamaya 
of  tfie  selfe:  and  apon  thoa  orfiivery,  sum  others  had  campaynes  gylt,  the  others  campa3nies  of  silver.  Gam- 
bods  at  pUsur,  that  it  was  ftiyr  tbyng  for  to  se,<«-The  said  erle  of  Northumbrelaund  was  vary  well  mount^i 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  t85 

accompanied  by  a  fleet  of  S4  ships  of  war,  30  transports,  and  a  gaHey.  Tliis  armament 
was  fitted  out  on  an  expedition  against  Scotland.  The  troops  lay  encamped  without 
the  walls  of  the  town.  .  ♦ 

Very  considerable  repairs  were  made  in  the  fortress  of  Berwick  in  the  year  1550, 
the  great  expence  of  which,  with  those  at  Calais,  are^stated  in  the  king's  journals  as 
the  cause  for  debasing  the  coin :  also,  in  the  year  155Ji,  it  is  found  that  great  im- 
provements had  been  made  upon  the  fortifications,  in  which,  by  the  minutes  kept  by 
secretary  Cecil,  £  6000  were  expended.  As  no  vestiges  of  these  works  are  now  to  be 
seal,  it  is  thought  they  have  been  razed  by  queen  !Eiizabeth  when  she  put  the  forti- 
fications upon  a  modem  plan.  Edward  VI.  and  Mary  queen  of  Scotland,  by  treaty 
made  Berwick  a  county  town,  and,  as  Rymer's  Faedra  notes  it,  "  a  free  town  inde- 
pendent of  both  states.'' 

From  this  time  until  the  death  of  queen  Elizabeth,  Berwick  endured  every  evil 
which  can  afHict  a  people  from  the  guilty  passions  of  rival  sovereigns,  and  the  turbu- 
lent manners  of  men  who  had  been  involved  in  hostile  broils  during  the  space  of  three 
centuries.  Within  this  period,  Berwick  had  changed  masters  thirteen  times.  The 
Union  of  the-two  crowns  at  length  terminated  a  oorrid  and  almost  uninterrupted 
scene  of  rapine  and  bloodshed. 

King  James,  on  his  deliberate  course  to  a  quiet  throne,  entered  Berwick  upon  the 
87th  of  March,  160S,  and  was  received  with  every  demonstration  of  duty  and  weL 
come,  by  Sir  John  Carey,  then  marshal,  accompanied  by  the  officers  of  the  garrison  i 
their  several  corps  of  horse  and  foot  were  marshalled  in  due  order,  and  on  the  king's 
passing,  saluted  him  with  3,Jeu  dejoy^  which  was  returned  bv  a  discharge  of  the  artd^ 
lery  on  the  ramparts.  The  roads  were  lined  with  people,  who  on  all  sides  joined  in 
the  loudest  aodamations.  When  his  majesty  Altered  the  gate,  the  keys  of  the  town 
were  delivered  to  him  by  William  Selby,  gentleman  porter,  who  was  immediately 

hys  Ykumt  rychly  apoynted,  hk  hamays  uf  gold  in  brodeux,  hymsel^B  in  a  jakette  be^l^  of  gold^  well  wrought 
in  goldtmidi  werke>  and  brodery>  and  in  a  doke  of  porple  borded  of  cloth  of  gold.  His  hensmen  apoynted 
as  before  mentioned.  Incontinently  before  hym  rode  the  maister  of  his  horse,  conveying  the  siim  thre  hensr 
mmi  armyed  in  jakettes  of  or&very  and  brodery,  and  ther  hamays  of  their  horsys  in  such  wys  of  orfavery  and 
brodery^  full  di  small  bells  that  maid  a  grett  noyse.  After  thos  cam  a  gentylman  ledyng  in  his  hauqd  a 
oorser,  covered  to  the  grownde  of  a  varey  rich  trapure  betten  of  gold  of  orfltvery  and  brodery  in  oraunge. 
And  iclion  of  the  sam  a  gren  tre  in  the  roanere  of  a  pyne^  and  maid  the  said  lord  pannades,  and  the  weigited 
varey  honnestly. — After  cam  the  said  qwene  varey  rychly  arayde  and  enomed  with  gold  and  precyous  stones, 
setting  in  hyr  lytere  rychly  apoynted  Her  foteman  alwayes  ny  to  hyr  well  apoynted,  and  monted  upon  fiiyr 
pallefrys,  and  their  hamays  ryche  in  appareyll-oAfter  cam  hyr  char  rychly  apoynted,  foumyached  of  ladyes  and 
gentyl  women  well  apoynted^  and  after  that,  sum  other  gentyl women  on  horsebak  honorably  apoynted  .<^-The 
said  oapittayne  of  Barrwyk,  and  my  lady  by s  wyffe  acompayned  of  many  gentylmen  and  gentylwomen  rychly 
arayed,  and  clothed  of  a  liveray,  went  with  the  said  qwene  to  Edinbur^e.— Beforo  the  said  qwene  war  by 
ordre  Johannes  and  hys  company,  and  Henry  Glascebery  and  hys  company,  the  trompetts,  oiioen  of  armies 
and  sergeants  cS  masse,  so  that  at  the  departing  out  of  the  said  Barrwyk  and  at  her  Bed  ward  at  Lamberton 
kerke  it  was  a  Joy  for  to  se  and  here. — In  such  stat  and  aray  the  said  qwene  cam  out  of  Barrwyk,  idion  by 
ofdra,  the  lorcfes  and  nobles  thre  and  thre  togeder,  to  the  said  Lamberton  kerke,  and  the  eompany  behind 
well  apoynted  and  in  ikyr  aray,  that  it  was  estimed  that  ther  war  of  the  parte  of  the  said  qw«ne  ^crjii  C  or 
two  M  horsys  wdl  apoynted," 

VOL,  I,  4  C 


286  HISTOHY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OP 

kfiighted,  and  the  keys  were  returned.  In  the  Tnarket-pkce  he  wte  met  1>y  the  body 
eorporate  of  the  borough ;  Hugh  Gregson,  the  mayor,  presented  him  with  an  oflfer^ 
ing  of  gold,  and  surrender  of  their  charter;  after  which  the  recorder  made  a  speedi 
of  congratulation :  theae  the  king  received  niost  graciously,  at  the  same  time  restoring 
the  charter,  and  promising  his  royal  favour  and  protection.  The  king  proceeded  to 
the!  dburch  to  return  thfimcs  for  his  peaceful  entry  into  his  new  dominions,  when 
Toby  Mathews,  bishop  of  Durham,  preached  an  exoellent  sarmon.  FixHn  thence  his 
majes^  went  to  the  castle,  the  ordnance  were  a^ain  discharged,  and  the  streets  re- 
echoed with  aodamations  of  joy.  On  the  following  day  the  king  received  several  of 
the  £n^sh  nobles,  among  whom  were  lord  Cobham,  and  Henry  Howard,  brother  of 
the  duke  of  Norfolk,  who  came  to  Berwick  to  pay  their  duty  to  their  d^w  sovereign : 
his  majesty  inspected  the  fortifications,  magazines,  and  port,  and,  at  the  head  of  the 
ganison,  drawn. out  and  under  arms,  with  his  own  hands  discharged  a  piece  of  ord- 
nance !  The  king,  with  the  most  hunuuie  and  laudable  intention  of  extinguishing  for 
ever  all  recoUecticm  of  past  hostilities  between  his  kingdoms,  prc^ibited  the  name  of 
•Borders  from  being  any  longer  used,  and  ordered  as  a  substitute  that  of  the  Middle 
Shires.  He  also  gave  orders  to  demolish  every  place  of  strength  in  these  parts,  except 
the  habitations  of  the  nobles  and  barons.  Influenced  by  the  same  spirit,  he  reduced 
the  garrison  of  Berwick  to  a  company  of  100  men.  After  the  Union  erf  the  two 
kingdoms  in  1706,  the  Border  feuds  disappeared,  and  the  distinctions  whidi  had  die- 
rished  prejudices  and  disputes,  graduaUy  wore  away. 

In  1649»  the  corporation  of  Berwick  sent  for  ^^  the  man  which  trieth  the  witdies  in 
Scotland  f'^  On  tne  10th  of  June,  1659»  thirty-seven  houses  were  suddenly  destroy- 
ed by  a  fire.  During  tihe  rebellion  in  1745,  the  inhalntants  formed  themselves  into 
fifteen  volunteer  companies,  which  did  the  duty  of  the  garrison  without  pay.  The 
Dutch  troops  that  were  landed  at  this  time  introduced  an  infectious  fever,  which  swept 
off  great  numbers  of  both  sexes.  In  1773,  the  corporation  brought  an  action  in  the 
court  of  king's  bench  against  James  Johnson,  a  non-freeman,  for  selling  ^oods  by 
retail ;  but,  happily  for  the  interests  of  the  town,  the  court  gave  judgment  m  favour 
of  the  defendant.  With  this  last  expiring  struggle  of  ignorance  and  selfishness,  we 
will  close  the  history  of  this  celebratea  frontier  town.f 

PRESENT    STATE    OF   BERWICK. 

Berwick  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tweed,  within  half  a  mile  of 
the  German  ocean.  It  lies  in  35  deg.  48  min,  north  latitude,  and  1  deg.  45  min  west 
longitude ;  being  distant,  by  the  great  post  road  which  passes  through  the  city  of 
Yonc,  336  miles  north  by  west  from  London,  64  miles  from  Newcastle,  and  54  miles 
south-east  from  Edinburgh.     Standing  near  the  sea,  and  on  the  banks  of  a  very  wide 

*  Guild  Han  Books,  from  l64S  to  l645,  folio  134. 

t  Many  important  particulan  nbttive  to  the  history  oCtiiw  place  may  be  seen  in  Ridpath's  Border  History, 
Chalmer's  Caleibnia,  Hatchmson's  Hisl.  of  Northomb.,  Hume's  Higt  of  England,  Robertson's  Hist  of  Scot- 
land.  Fuller's  Hist  of  Berwick,  Grose's  Antiq.  and  Camden's  Britannia, 


:      VBKWICK  UPON  TWEED.  «87 

river,  unsheltered  by  iaHs  or  ^danitaticins,  H  i$  exposed  to  almoat  every  wind  that 
blows.  The  town»  howev«r»  envoys  the.salutifry  ccmsequence.  of  a  very  free  circiilatioa 
of  air»  thourii  it  is  generaliy  cold  and  piercing:  To  this  .circumstance  .ak»e  the  ac- 
knowledged nealthiness  of  Berwick  is  to  be  attribirf^ 

The  ground  on  which  the  town<  is  built  has,  in  general,  an  easy  ascent  from,  the 
river ;  but,  in  some  streets,  the  aedivity  is  so  considerable^  as  to  render  the  passage 
extremely  difficult  and  dangerous.  From  its  facing  th^  south  it  fully  enjoys  the  en* 
Uvenitig  rays  of  the  sun.  us  circumference,  within  thb  ii^ls,  is  one  mile  seven  hun« 
dred  and  twelve  yards.  The  old  waU$  were  of  much  greats  ^^^tent^  and  measured 
two  mUes,  two  hundred  and  eighty-two  yards,  in  circumference.  The  figure  of  Ber- 
wick is  nearly  oval.  \  The  ramparts  completely  siuround  the  town,  aim  have  four 
principal  gates.  The  walls  and  bastions  of  the  fortifications  on  the  limd  side,  are  of 
earth,  raised  considerably  above  the  stone-work,  and  strengthened  by  a  ditch.  The 
fortifications  that  defend  the  mouth  of  the  river  are  whoUy  built  of  stone.  Fisher 
and  Bramham's  forts  protect  the  bar,  and  would  render  any  attempt  on  that  side  ex- 
tremely hazardous.  Twenty <*four  pminders;  vrere  also  mounted  on  the  Saluting  Bat- 
tery.   But  all  the  guns  and  m<»tars  were  lately  removed  as  useless  or  unsafe. 

Berwick  consists  of  eight  or  nine  principal  streets,  several  lanes,  the  Parade,  and 
Golden-square,  and  a  place  called  the  Palace.  The  struts  ar^  mostly  irregular,  but 
some  of  tnem  are  tolerably  wide  and  commodious.  TI^q  buildings  are  generally  of 
free-stone ;  but  their  appearance  at  a  diatance  is  greatly  disfigured  by  being  covered 
with  red  tiles.  Uniformity  is  not  much  attended  to,  though  many  of  the  houses, 
particularly  in  High-street  and  Hide-hill,  are  lofty  and  commodious ;  and  those  of 
modem  erection  are  handsomely  fronted.  Many  of  the  shops  are  provided  with  a 
great  abundance  and  vcuiety  of  goods,  and  exhibit  an  appearance  of  neatness  and  ele- 
gance not  to  be  surpassed  in  any  other  provincial  town.  The  suburb  called  Castle- 
gate  is  situated  without  the  walls,  near  the  north-west  part  of  the  town.  It  consists 
of  one  long  broad  street,  running  nearly .  north,  being  the  outlet  to  the  great  north 
road.  A  long  range  of  houses,  called  Greenses,  stretches  from  the  further  end  of 
Castlegate  eastward.     It  is  principally  inhabited  by  fishermen  and  labourers. 

In  giving  a  description  of  the  public  buildings  of  this  town,  the  church  first  clajms 
attention.  It  stands  a  little  to  the  north  of  that  area  termed  the  Parade.  In 
A.  D.  1640,  the  mayor  and  burgesses  petitioned  Charles  I.  to  grant  them  a  patent  oir 
brief  in  order  to  collect  money  to  build  a  church,  as  the  old  one,  which  is  saia  to  have 
stood  at  the  head  of  Marygate,  and  to  have  been  called  St.  Mary's  church,  had  been 
taken  down  in  the  reign  of  queen  Mary,  and  appropriated  for  building  walls  and 
other  fortifications.  The  brief  was  granted^  but  the  work  did  not  commence  until 
1648.  It  was  finished  1652,  under  the  direction  of  colonel  George  Fenwicke,  of 
Brenkbume,  during  the  time  of  parliament.*  The  expense  of  it  amounted  to  fourteen 
hundred  pounds,  as  appears  in  the  archives  of  the  corporation.  This  handsome  edifice 
consists  of  two  storeys.    The  second  storey  does  not  rest  on  the  walls  of  the  first,  but 

• 

*  He  lies  buried  in  the  church,  nearly  opposite  the  pulpit,  with  the  follow^  epitaph  over  hlni : — "  CoL 
Geo.  Fenwicke  of  Brenkbiirae,  Esq.  .Governor  of  Berwick,  in  the  year  l652  was  a  priqcipal  instrument  of 
causing  this  church  to  be  built ;  and  died  March  1 5th,  1656. — ^A  good  man  is  a  public  gQod.' 


988  HISTOEY  AND  DESCRIPTIOW  OF 


i8  supported  by  two  rows  of  pillars  in  the  ehurdi,  joined  together  fav  arches.    The 

{miliars  are  three  on  either  side,  placed  about  fifteen  nset  distant  6om  the  walls  of  the 
ower  storey.  A  stranger,  viewing  the  outside  of  this  churdi,  might  suppose  he  saw 
one  church  standing  on  the  top  oi  another.  It  is  not  built  aeoording  to  any  of  the 
orders  of  architecture.  The  windows  approach  the  Venetian  styk^  except  a  larirc 
Gothic  one  in  the  east  end.  The  inside  is  very  handsome,  having  several  beautiral 
galleries,  a  spacious  stdrcase,  and  an  excellent  organ.    The  altar-piece  is  also  of  ex-* 

Sdsite  workmanship.    This  church  has  no  spire  nor  bells,  which  is  characteristic  of 
e  times  in  which  it  was  built.    It  measures  90  feet  8  inches  in  length,  and  58  feet 
6  inches  in  width. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  church  is  a  very  handsome  mural  monument,  with  the 
foUowing  inscription  :-^ 

This  MoDumenty 

Erected  by  Public  Subscriptioti, 

is  conaecraled  to  the  Memory  of 

MR.  JAMES  GRAHAM, 

late  Coroner  of  this  Borough ; 

whose  Public  Virtues,  in  some  measure  identified 

with  the  local  Improrements  of  the  Town ; 

but  more  especially  marked 

by  his  constant,  unvaried,  and  intrefnd 

Exertions  through  Life, 

in  endeavouring  to  promote 

THE  CIVIL  &  RELIGIOUS  LIBERTIES 

OP  HIS  COUNTRY, 

have  induced  his  Friends  thus  to  perpetuate 

the  Remembrance  of  his  Virtues  and  their  Regards, 

He  died  on  the  Slst  June,  1816,  aged  69  Years. 

The  above  inscription  is  cut  upon  a  Grecian  sarcophagus,  resting  upon  a  base,  on 
which  is  inscribed : — 

^  <«  This  was  a  good  Man  and  a  Lover  of  his  Country.^ 

The  upper  part  of  the  monument  forms  a  pyramid,  embellished  with  a  trophy, 
consisting  of  the  Cap  of  Liberty,  crossed  by  the  Koman  fasces,  and  interwoven  with 
palm  and  laurel  branches,  below  which  is  a  group  of  broken  links,  representing  the 
chains  of  slavery  lHX)ken.  The  ground-work  is  of  Italian  dove,  and  the  embdlish- 
ments  of  white  statuary  marble  * 

*  The  object  of  the  honour  and  regard  shewn  hy  this  monument,  was  a  plain,  honest,  warm»hearted  man, 
whose  unwearied  exertions  to  defied  public  liberty,  and  to  promote  local  improvements,  raised  him  above 
those  who  are  only  distinguished  by  titles  or  wealth.  Much  useful  information  was  obtained  tem  this  wor* 
th}r  gentleman  while  the  fimner  editionr  of  this  work  was  in  preparation. 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED,  28» 

Under  the  s(mtb  gallery  is  the  followmg  inscription : — 

<<  Sr.  Will :  Selby  Kt  Sd.  Son  of  Sr  Ralph  Selby  who  marred  Ell.  ftd.  daughter  of  FerdinaDdo 
Lord  Fairfax  of  DentoD  in  Yorkshire  buried  Feby.  fSSth  1654. 

Why  iookst  thov  on  my  dvst  ^n  passiog  by 
Thou  seest  noe  wonder  there  thyself  ma-stdy. 
<<  Here  alsoe  liie-th  the  Bodie  of  Captain  Rowland  Selby  Esqr.  of  Twissel  who  departed  this  life 
the  17th.  day  Febvary  Anno  Domini  1690.'' 

Within  a  railing  is  a  Latin  Inscription,  commemorative  of  Elizabeth,  wife  of  Ru- 
pert Bellingsley,  lieut  gov,  of  Berwick,  1699.  There  are  many  other  epitaphs  within 
the  church. 

The  church-yard  is  remarkably  spacious,  and  the  grave-stones  so  very  numerous  as 
to  surprise  strangers,  and  excite  unpleasant  emotions.  This  arises  from  there  being 
no  other  burying-plaoe  in  the  parish,  and  from  the  unrestrained  liberty  of  erecting 
monuments.  The  monumental  inscriptions  are  generally  very  brief  and  modest. 
The  foUowing  Is  singular  from  its  quaintness  ;-^ 

^<  If  breath  were  made  for  every  man  to  buy. 
The  poor  man  could  not  live,  the  rich  man  would  not  die : 
Life  is  a  blesnng  can^t  be  sold,  the  ransom  is  too  high ; 
Justice  will  neVr  be  bribed  with  gold,  that  men  may  never  die.^ 

The  governor's  house  and  offices  constitute  the  north-east  side  of  that  imperfect 
square  called  the  Palace.  It  is  a  commodious  stone  building,  three  stories  in  height ; 
one  side  fronts  the  sea,  and  the  other  the  bridge.  The  view  in  both  these  directions 
is  much  obscured  by  the  walls ;  but  from  the  upper  storey  there  is  a  very  beautiful 
and  extensive  prospect  Behind  the  bouse  is  a  neat  garden,  and  adjoining  the  outride 
of  the  wall  a  rookery. 

The  Barracks  are  excellently  situated,  having  a  free  circulation  of  air  in  every 
quarter.  They  form  a  square  of  217  by  121  feet  inside,  exclusive  of  which  they 
have  two  l»ck-yards,  containing  every  necessary  convenience.  There  are  twenty- 
four  rooms  for  officers,  and  seventy-two  for  privates ;  the  latter  contain  576  men. 
An  ordpance  store  composes  the  south  side  of  the  square.  The  north  side  consists  of 
a  guard-house,  a  black-nole,  and  a  gateway,  over  which,  on  the  outside,  the  king's 
coat  of  arms  are  exquisitely  carved  in  stone.  At  the  north-east,  behind  the  buildings, 
is  a  large  kitchen  for  cooking  the  men's  victuals  in.  There  i$  also  a  large  apartment 
used  by  the  troops  as  a  dressing-room.  In  the  middle  of  the  square  there  is  a  foun«  ^ 
tain  that  supplies  the  barracks  with  water.  These  barracks  were  built  in  I719,  and  ' 
about  twenty  years  ago  were  much  repaired  and  improved.  Happily,  they  ai«  now 
unoccupied. 

The  Hospital  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  bapk-way,  near  the  barracks.  It 
is  two  stories  in  height,  and  tolerably  wejl  aired.  The  Ordnance-house  is  approprf^ 
ated  for  the  use  of  the  principal  engineer,  and  stands  dose  to  the  artiMery  groimd, 
about  100  yards  south  from  the  barracks,    It  is  a  very  commodious  building,  and  U 

VOL,  L— ( 18 )  4  D  . 


390  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

furnished  with  a  good  garden  and  suitable  offices.    The  Main^guani  stands  at  tiie 
south  end  of  Palace-street,  and  is  a  neat  building,  piazzaed  in  front. 

Tbe  Towii4iaU  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  High-street,  at  it&  lower  end.  It  is  a 
stately  pile  of  modem  architecture,  consisting  of  fine  hewn  stone,-  three  stories  higfa^ 
a  handsome  spire,  and  a  beautiful  pediment  or  frontispiece,  supported  by  four  grace- 
ful columns  of  the  Tuscan  order,  being  82  feet  in  height,  and  9^  feet  in  circumfe- 
rence. The  steeple  is  composed  of  the  Tuscan,  Doric,  and  Ionic  order ;  and  is  160 
feet  in  height.  It  is  furnished  with  an  excellent  peal  of  bells,  eight  in  number ;  idiiO 
.  a  fine  dock,  which  exhibits  the  hours  in  all  directions.  The  roof  is  made  of  strong 
timber,  coYered  with  lead  and  slate,  and  is  embellished  with  surrounding  ballustrades, 
vases,  &c.  Fart  of  the  ground  floor  consists  of  cells  for  confining  persons  ap{»'ehended 
for  capital  crimes,  or  such  as  are  under  sentence  of  death.  Some  other  apartments  of 
it  are  let  out  by  the  corporation  to  tradesmen.  The  eastern  part  of  the  above  floor  is 
formed  into  a  piazza,  which  is  allotted  for  the  poultry,  meal,  egg,  and  butter  markete, 
and  also  for  the  hiring  of  servants.  It  is  called  the  Exchange ;  and  measures  46 -feet 
9  inches  in  length,  S8  feet  8  inches  in  width*  and  13  feet  in  height.  The  nuddle 
storey  consists  of  two  halls,  a  committee  room,  two  smaller  apartments,  ancl  a  large 
staircase  leading  to  the  uppermost  floor. 

The  first  or  outer  hall  is  60  feet  long,  31^  broad,  and  17  feet  high.  In  this  hall  the 
mayor  and  members  of  parliament  are  elected ;  and  the  courts,  both  civil  and  crimi- 
nal, are  held  here,  as  are  also  the  guilds.  It  has  four  large  windows  in  the  south  side 
of  it,  in  front  of  which  are  the  erections  where  the  courts  sit  On  the  wainscoting, 
above  the  mayor's  chair,  there  is  a  drawing  of  justice  resting  her  feet  on  a  figure  of 
the  terrestrial  globe.  The  king's  arms^  represented  on  a  square  piece  of  canvas,  pro- 
ject from  the  top  of  the  wainscoting  immediately  above  the  middle  of  the  mayor  and 
justices'  bench.  Over  the  great  door  of  this  hall,  in  the  inside,  the  aims  of  the  cor- 
poration, on  a  small  scale,  are  embossed.  In  the  north  comer  of  the  hall  there  is  a 
hewn  stone  building,  with  an  iron  door,  for  holding  the  archives  of  the  coiporation. 

The  inner  hall  is  47  feet  4  inches  in  length,  23  feet  8  inches  in  breadth,  aiid  16  feet 
in  height  It  is  exceedingly  well  lighted,  having  four  windows  fronting  the  south, 
and  a  large  Venetian  one  in  the  east  end  of  the  halL  The  assemblies  were  formerly 
held  here,  and  the  mayor's  dinners  and  other  great  entertainments  were  also  given  in 
it.  Over  the  chimney-piece  is  another  representation  of  the  blind  goddess,  done  upon 
a  large  scale,  in  stucco,  A.  D.  1770. 

The  arms  of  the  corporation  are  beautifully  embossed  in  the  front  of  the  pediment. 
The. date  of  their  erection  we  learn  from  the  following  inscription  in  carved  letters 
on  its  base : — 

«•  MDCCLVII.    Samuel  Burn,  Esq.  Mayor.'' 

On  the  entablature  is  the  following  inscription  in  raised  capitals,  ornamented  with 
gold  l^a;f  ^— < 

"FINISHED  A.  D.  MDCCLIV. 
WILLIAM  TEMPLE,  Esq.  MAYOR.'' 

Over  the  outer  door  is  another  inscription,  viz. — 

*<  Joseph  Dodds,  architect,  1754.'' 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  tOl 

The  whole  of  this  butt<£iig  was  not  ewcted  at  the  same  period.  The  miier  hall 
was  finished  in  1761,  as  appeiffs  by  an  mseription  on  a  belt,  near  the  top  of  die  east 
gable.  The  last  built  part  is  sev^fi  feet  nine  inches  wider  than  tl^  finst.  The  projeo*. 
tion  thus  formed  is  cm  the  back  part  of  the  building.  The  whole  length  of  the  edi- 
fice,  iniduding  the  thickness  of  the  walls^  is  136  feet  8  inches.  The  ascent  to  the 
portico  is  by  thirteen  steps.  It  measures  26  feet  6  inches  in  length,  and  11  feet  3 
mdies  in  breadth. 

The  upper  storey  is  occupied  as  a  common  gaol,  and  is,  perhaps,  the  most  healthy 
and  pleasant  one  in  the  kingdom.  This  is  owing  to  its  many  hrge  windows,  frma, 
whicti  the  prisoners  enjoy  sev^al  excellent  views  of  the  town,  the  German  oeean, 
Biunbrough  castle,  and  Holy  Island.  There  is  a  long  gallery  which  they  are  allowed 
to  perambulate.  Tradesmen,  when  confined,  have  litorty  to  work  in  this  gfioi :  some 
have  even  retrieved  their  fortunes  in  it.  Persons  shut  up  for  debt  or  petty  offences 
are  permitted  to  walk  on  the  roof  of  the  building  to  enjoy  the  free  air.  This  orcuBi^ 
stance,  together  with  the  extensive  and  beautiml  surrounding  prospects  already  no* 
ticed,  must  both  be  a  pleasant  and  salutary  indulgence  to  the  prison^v. 

The  reservoir  of  water  is  situated  about  half  way  between  the  foot  oi  Castlegate 
and  Scotchgate,  on  the  north  side  of  the  pavratient.  It  measures  60  feet  in  hngth^ 
16  feet  in  width,  and  8  feet  in  depth.  Tht  quantity  of  water  .which  it  is  oqwUe  of 
holding  is  200  tons.  Nothing  of  the  building  is  seen  but  its  front,  which  is  ei  fine 
hewn  stone;  the  odier  parts  of  it  are  covered  with  earth.  Ov^  the  door,  in  hewn 
letters,  are-*- 

"  Begun  to  be  built  1789.    6.  Forster,  Esq.  Mayor.'* 
^'  Fimsbed  1790.    David  Stov,  fisq.  Mayor.'' 

The  water  is  pknttful*  and  of  excellent  quality.  It  proceeds  from  two  springs, 
whidi  imite  at  the  south  end  c£  the  Cow-<2k)se,  and  is  comveyed  to  the  reservoir  in  m 
stone  conduit. 

It  is  impossible  to  ascertain  the  time  when  a  bri€^  was  first  built  at  Berwick. 
The  wooden  bridge  across  the  Tweed,  about  an  hundred  yards  above  where  the  pre- 
sent stone  one  stands^  was  swept  away  by  the  floods  in  the  reifi^  of  king  John,  and 
was  restored  by  William,  king  of  Scotlaad.  In  Leland's  Colkctanea  this  ev^at  is 
thus  mentioned : — '*  The  bridge  of  Berwick  brake  about  this  l^me  with  great  force  of 
water,  bycause  the  arches  of  it  were  to  low,  and  after  the  makmg  of  it,  as  it  was  tlien» 
it  durid  sears  ix  years."  When  earl  Patrick^  the  govenior  of  Berwick,  set  about  re- 
building the  bridge,  conformably  to  the  king^s  orders,  he  was  forbidden  by  Philip^ 
Mshop  of  Durham,  to  make  it  termudate  on  his  land.  But  no  bridge  could  be  built 
there  unless  it  terminated  on  land  beliHigin^  to  the  bishop,  as  it  had  formerly  done. 
At  last,  by  the  advice  of  WUliam  de  Stuteviler,  the  bishop  suffered  the  work  to  be 
earned  on,  with  a  salvo  of  the  convention  that  had  been  concluded  between  the 
king  of  Scotland,  and  Hugh,  the  bishop's  i^pedecessor. 

The  present  elegant  bridge  occupied,  in  building,  the  sm/oe  of  twenty-four  years, 
four  months,  and  four  days,  and  was  finii^ed  on  the  94th  October,  1634,  in  the  tenth 
year  of  the  reign  of  king  Charles.    Government  seems  to  have  given  £  14,960, 1^.  6dL 


«W  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

towards  discharging  the  expenses  of  this  great  public  work.  This  bridge  is  situated 
dose  by  the  quay,  is  built  of  fine  hewn  stone,  and  has  fifteen  spacious  and  elegant 
arches.  It  measures  1164  feet  in  length,  including  the  land-stalls.  Its  width  is  17 
feet.  At  each  of  the  pillars,  which  are  fourteen  in  number,  there  is  an  outlet  to  both 
sides ;  without  these  there  would  be  greater  danger  either  in  walking  or  riding  along 
the  bridge  than  there  is  at  present.  The  sixth  pillar  separates  Berwick  from  the 
county  palatine  of  Durham.  The  battlements  at  the  outlets  at  this  pillar  are  always 
covered  with  sods,  as  a  ^de  to  constables  and  others  in  the  execution  of  warrants 
for  the  apprehension  of  delinquents.  The  south  gate  of  the  town,  together  with  the 
adjomkig  guard-house,  shut  up  the  bridge  at  its  northern  extremity.  Towards  Ihe 
middle  of  it  there  were  two  strong  wooden  barriers,  148  feet  distant  from  eadi  other. 
Berwick  is  a  borough  of  great  antiquity.  The  corporation  wiEis  prescriptiye,  but 
after  the  town  became  the  confirmed  possession  of  the  English  crown,  the  corporate 
body  was  established  by  charter.  This  boroil^  was  summoned  to  send  two  members 
to  parliament  in  the  reign  of  king  Henry  VIII.  Brown  Willis  says,  that  the  bur- 
gesses were  summoned  to  send  representatives  to  parliament  in  the  latter  end  of  the 
reign  of  king  Edward  IV.  The  charter  granted  to  the  corporation  by  king  James  I. 
soon  after  his  accession  to  the  crown  of  England,  confirms  to  them  the  several  ancient 
prescriptive  franchises  and  privileges,  which  Berwick,  from  very  distant  ages,  had 

^  This  borough,  though  not  a  county,  has  an  exempt  jurisdiction,  not  being  within 
either  of  the  adjoining  counties  of  Durham  or  Northumberland.  It  has  a  maycnr  and 
four  bailiffs,  a  majority  of  whom  can  act  as  sheriff  in  the  execution  of  all  writs  and 
mandates  from  the  king^s  courts  at  Westminster.  Matters  of  consequence  are  com-» 
monly  tried  in  the  superior  courts  at  Westminster,  and  those  of  inferior  moment  in 
the  court  of  record  belonging  to  the  borough. 

The  mayor,  recorder,  and  justices,  with  a  jury  of  twelve  men,  have,  by  their  char^ 
ter,  a  power  to  hold  general  and  quarter-sessions  of  the  peace  within  the  borough,  for 
the  trial  of  petty  felonies,  trespasses,  and  other  misdemeanors.  They  have  also  a 
power  of  holding  a  general  gaol  delivery  for  the  trial  of  capital  felonies ;  and  such  as 
are  capitally  convict^  at  these  trials  are  executed  vnthin  the  borough,  it  having  a 
gallows  for  the  purpose.  The  sessions,  or  court  of  gaol  delivery,  cannot  be  held 
without  the  mayor  and  recorder,  who,  when  elected  into  ofiice,  continue  justices  of 
the  peace  for  life  within  the  borough.  Gentlemen  who  have  served  the  office  of 
mayor  are  likewise  denominated  aldermen. 

The  constitution  of  the  borough,  or  corporation  in  guild,  is  a  mixed  or  popular 
one.  The  guild  is  composed  of  the  mayor,  the  justices,  an  alderman  for  the 
year,  four  bailiffs,  and  the  rest  oi  the  guild  brethren.  Every  question  in  guild,  with 
regard  to  the  affairs  of  the  corporation,  is  decided  by  a  majority  of  the  burgesses ;  the 
mayor  not  having  a  casting  vote  as  formerly.  The  alderman  for  the  year  assists  the 
mayor,  and  receives  and  presents  petitions  to  the  guild ;  but  the  office  is  not  appointed 
by  charter.  The  mayor,  aldermen,  and  bailiffs,  are  chosen  annually  at  Micbadmas^ 
when  the  mayor  is  invested  with  the  insignia  of  office,  which  is  a  white  rod.  He 
likewise  wears  a  gown,  as  do  also  the  other  magistrates,  the  alderman  for  the  year, 
^e  bailiffs,  coroner,  and  town-derk.    Four  seijeants  at  mace  are  appointed  to  attend 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  %8 

thd  imyot  aad  bailiift,  who  have  salaries  3llowed  them,  and  are  clothed  at  tiie  expense 
of  the  corpon^ticHi.  This  is  also  the  case  with  regard  to  the  gaolers,  waits,  bellmen, 
l^e^dles,  &C. 

For  these  many  years  no  private  guilds  have  been  held,  committees  being  now  ap- 
pointed to  carry  the  orders  o£  the  guild  into  dfect»  These  committees  give  orders  on 
the  treasure  tor  most  of  the  pa)rments.  The  ordinary  salaries  are  likewise  paid  by 
the  treasurer.  Four  head  guilds  are  held  in  the  year  at  stated  periods,  reserving  to 
themsdves  the  pow^  of  adjoumnoient.  The  mayor  likjewise  has  power  to  cs&  a 
guild,  and  must  do  so  if  it  is  requested  by  twelve  of  the  burgesses.  The  sons  of  bur- 
gesses are  admitted  to  the  freedom  at  the  age  of  twenty-one.  Others,  again,  obtain  it 
only  by  beoomiQg  apprentices  to  burgesses,  whom  tney  must  serve  for  seven  years. 
At  the  oommencen^ient  of  their  fq^prenticeship,  too,  they  must  be  presented  to  the 
guild  for  its  approbation.  If  approved  of,  tney  are  immediately  enrolled,  and  pav 
the  usual  fee.  The  number  of  burgesses  amount  to  about  1000,  one  half  of  whicn 
ai^  resident  within  the  |>arish.* 

The  liberties  of  Berwidc  extend  from  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  northwards,  ter* 
minating  at  the  grounds  of  Lamberton ;  from  thence  they  are  bounded  by  a  line 
iTuniui]^  west  by  south,  erossio^  the  river  Whitadder,  and  ending  at  the  Tweed :  th^ 
other  side  goes  down  dose  by  the  river  aU  the  way  to  its  termination  at  the  bar ;  thua 
forming  an  equilateral  triangle,  two  sides  of  which  are  two  miles  each,  and  the  other 
mde  somewhat  more.  Within  these  liberties  a  number  of  private  gentlemen  have 
estates}  yet  were  all  the  landed  property  of  the  corporation  let,  me  rents  would 
amount  to  a  considerable  suoqi.  Great  part  is,  indeed,  let  out  upon  leases ;  and  the 
rest,  m,easuring  about  4500  acres,  is  parcdled  out  into  separate  allotments.  These  are 
called  Surged  Memdaws^  or  S^nts.  Th^e  are  between  300  and  400  of  these  stints^ 
which  are  oceapied  by  the  oldest  burgesses  and  their  widows ;  by  this  means,  a  few 
every  year  acquire  the  possesision  of  a  stint.  One  of  these  allotments  is  worth  from 
£  5  to  £  15  per  wnum,  according  to  circumstances.  At  the  Meadow  Guild,  held, 
every  October,  the  burgesses,  or  their  widows,  dxuse  their  stints,  as  they  become 
vacant,  aeeordkig  to  saaiority. 

The  isaayor,  baUifis,  and  burgesses  of  Berwick  are  also  lords  of  the  manor  o| 
Tweedmouth  and  Spittal,  in  the  county  palatine  of  Durham,  having  purchased  the 
royalties  of  the  earl  of  Sii^olk,  in  th^  year  1657,  for  £  570.  They  hold  a  cauprtiaet 
an^  eoilYtJbaron  at  Tweedmoutift  twice  $t  year,  vi^s.  at  Ea«ter  w&A  Michaelmas^  for  the 
trial  of  debts  and  trespasses  under  forty  killings.  The  tenants  of  the  manor  also  do 
suit  and  service  at  these  courts;  and  are  admitted  by  the  lords,  upon  deaths  ori^eiia« 
iicm,  to  the  copyhold  lands  and  tenements  boiden  of  them  as  lords  of  the  manor  4tt 

Eiyment  of  smiol  fines.    There  wm  a  common  belonglBg  to  tiie  raanior,  which  was 
tely  divided. 

'  '  1  •  I 

*  It  is  aot  uncommon  fpr  the  burgesses  of  Berwick  to  promise  their  vote  to  a  favourite  member  of  parlia«i 
ment,  or  to  an  intended  candidate^  a  considerable  time  before  an  electioii  actually  takes  place ;  and  this  pro^ 
mise  is  seldom  broken.  Hence  ib^  borough  is  oflen  cwK>flsed  and  secured  before  a  dissolution  of  parliament. 
The  burgesses  find  this  kind  of  honour  extrei^ely  advamtageotts^  and  fxe  always  much  enraged  when  a  brother 
violates  his  ei)g^ement. 

vol..  I,  4  E 


S94  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

The  duties  taken  at  the  quay  and  gates  constitute  the  grand  fann,  which  varies 
considerably.  The  other  sources  of  revenue  are  the  ballast-quay  duties,  the  rents  of 
lands  and  fishing-waters  belonging  to  the  corporation,  a  colliery  in  Tweedmouth-moor, 
quarries,  grand-tithes,  &c.  Dr.  Fuller,  in  the  year  1799,  estimated  the  aggregate  of 
tne  whole  at  between  £  6000  and  £  7000  yearly. 

The  weekly  market  is  held  on  Saturdays.  There  is  also  one  fair  in  the  year,  which 
lasts  but  a  day,  though  the  corporation  have  the  power  of  continuing  it  from  the  feast 
of  the  Invention  of  the  Holy  Cross,  until  the  feast  of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  Lately, 
three  high  markets,  similar  to  fairs,  were  established,  to  be  held  yearly  for  hiring  ser- 
vants  and  selling  horses  and  cattle.  These  markets  are  held  on  the  second  Wednes- 
day of  May,  on  the  Wednesday  preceding  the  26th  of  August,  and  on  the  first 
Wednesday  of  November.  The  butcher  market,  which  forms  an  irregular  square,  is 
situated  near  the  foot  of  Church-street.  It  is  wdl  paved,  and  has  two  gates.  There 
are  also  shambles  on  the  outside  of  the  market-place.  This  market  is  wdl  supplied 
with  every  kind  of  meat  of  the  best  quality,  particularly  veal,  which  is  often  sent  to 
a  considerable  distance.  The  fish-market  is  neld  in  the  High-street.  The  price  of 
fish  generally  bears  a  proportion  to  butcher-meat.  The  quantity  taken  at  Berwick  is 
seldom  sufficient  for  the  demand  of  the  market,  but  the  deficiency  is  made  up  from 
the  neighbouring  fisheries  in  Scotland,  and  A^m  Holy  Island.  Mussels  and  cockles 
are  also  brought  from  the  latter  place  and  Budle ;  they  are  mostly  hawked  about  the 
town  in  creels.  Oysters  are  usually  brought  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Leith.  The 
poultry,  egg,  and  butter  markets  are  held  in  the  Exchange  every  Saturday,  and  are 
genen^  well  supplied.  The  green-market  is  held  at  the  west  end  and  south  front 
of  the  Town-hall.  The  fruit  and  vegetables  are  cheap,  and  good  of  their  kind.  The 
eom-market  is  held  at  the  foot  of  the  High-street,  but  the  com  is  usually  sold  by 
sample.  On  market  days,  considerable  quantities  of  coarse  woollen  cloths  and  flan- 
nels are  exposed  to  sale  in  the  Hi^h-street,  which  the  dealers  piut^hase  at  Morpeth^ 
Jedburgh,  Galashiels,  &c.  Wooden  utensils,  new-made  dodies,  hardware,  ana  old 
books,  are  also  sold  in  the  same  street 

The  vicarage  of  Berwick  is  under  the  patronage  of  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Dur** 
ham.*    The  stipend  is  £  80  per  annum,  paid  by  the  corporation  of  Berwick  out  of 

*  In  former  times  there  were  many  religious  and  charitable  establishments  in  Berwick,  ori^^iaating  fiom 
die  wdl-meaniag  piety  of  the  yalorous  fathers  and  crediilovs  mothers  of  the  present  inhabitants.— There  were 
no  fewer  than  four  conyents  of  friars  in  Berwick.  There  was  a  house  of  Frandscsn  or  Grey  Friars,  who 
were  introduced  into  Scotland  ISI9.  The  minorites,  with  their  warden,  swore  fealty  to  Edward  I.  in  1296, 
and  were  protected  by  him.  They  submitted  equally  to  Edward  III.  after  the  battle  of  Hallydon-lnll,  and 
seem  to  have  been  patronized  by  him,  while  the  other  orders  were  removed,  and  English  friars  placed  in 
their  oonventa^— In  1230,  Alexander  III.  founded  in  Berwick  a  convent  <^  his  favourite  Dominican,  or  Black 
Friars,  and  endowed  them  with  a  revenue  of  for^  marks.  Robert  Bruce  added  an  annual  rent  out  of  the 
mill  at  Berwick.  These  preaching  firiars  were  removed  by  Edward  IIIw— A  convent  of  Red  or  Trinity  Friars 
waft  founded  at  Berwick  by  William  the  Lion ;  and  a  convent  of  Carmelite  or  White  Friars  was  founded  about 
the  year  1270,  by  Sir  John  Grey,  whose  duty  it  was  to  officiate  at  the  chapel  royal  within  the  castle. — ^David 
I.  founded  in  Berwick  a  convent  of  Cistertian  nuns,  which  was  richly  endowed  by  the  well-meaning  liberality 
of  several  perscms.  In  IS91,  Robert  III.  granted  the  whole  revenues  of  this  convent  to  the  monks  at  Dry- 
burgh,  though  Berwick  then  belonged  to  England.    Within  Berwick  bounds,  at  Halystan,  near  Hallydown. 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  295 

tithes  which  they  rent  of  the  dean  and  chapter ;  no  glebe  but  the  church-yard  and 
the  garden  belonging  to  the  vicarage-house.  The  corporation  ffives  £  30  a  year  for  a 
Sunday  afternoon's  sermon.     The  whole  is  estimated  at  about  £  140  per  annum. 

Besides  the  vicarage,  there  is  a  Thursday's  lecture  ill  the  patronage  of  the  Mercer's 
company,  London,*  founded  by  a  Mr.  Fisnbume  in  the  year  16S5,  paid  from  the  corn 
tithes  of  ChoUerton  and  Barrisford,  near  Hexham,  in  Northumberland.  The  tithes 
are  variable,  but  said  to  amount,  upon  an  average,  to  upwards  of  £  400  per  annum. 

The  dissenters  are  numerous  in  Berwick,  and  have  seven  places  of  worship.  The 
Low  Presbyterian  Meeting  House,  on  the  east  side  of  Hyde-hill,  was  built  m  1719, 
and  is  capable  of  containing  about  700  people.  The  High  Meeting  House,  in  the 
High-street,  was  erected  in  1724,  and  is  calculated  to  contain  1500  people.f  In  the 
Golden-square,  High-street,  stands  the  Burgher  Meeting  House:  it  was  built  in 
1770,  and  enlarged  in  1796,  and  can  accommodate  1200  auditors.  The  Antiburgher 
Meeting  House  stands  in  Church-street,  was  built  in  1812,  and  is  capable  of  contain* 
ing  700  people.  These  two  latter  sects  have  now  generally  associated  together.  The 
Relief  Meeting  House,  at  the  end  of  Shaw*s-lane,  was  erected  in  1756,  and  will  con- 
tain 900  people.  The  Methodists  also  built  a  meeting  house,  at  the  west  end  of 
Walkergate-lane,  in  1797 ;  and  at  the  other  end  of  the  same  lane,  the  Baptists,  in 
1810,  built  a  snug  meeting  house,  which  wiH  contain  about  800  people. 

Before  offering  an  account  of  the  present  trade  of  Berwick,  it  may  be  interesting 
to  give  a  few  particulars  relative  to  its  trade  in  ancient  times,  whereby  it  will  appear, 
that  this  place  was,  during  many  centuries,  of  the  highest  importance  in  a  commercial 
as  well  as  a  military  point  of  view. 

Berwick  was  distinguished,  as  early  as  the  year  1156,  for  having  more  foreign 
commerce  than  any  other  port  in  Scotland,  and  many  ships.    One  of  them,  belonging 

faill^  was  founded  of  old  a  convent^  dedicated  to  St.  Leonard  for  Cistertian  nans.  Edward  III.  shewed  his 
gratitude  to  the  prioress  and  nuns^  after  the  battle  of  Hallydown-hill^  by  many  acts  of  generosity.*— There  was 
a  house  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity  at  Berwick  bridge,  whose  duty  it  was  to  pray  for  the  passengers,  anil 
to  profit  from  their  safety.  There  was  also  an  hospital  at  Berwick,  dedicated  to  Mary  Magdalen,  with  an 
appendant  hermitage  at  Logden.  There  is  a  field  between  Berwick  walls  and  the  sea,  which  is  still  called 
MaiidUnJield,  from  its  being  the  ancient  scite  of  the  hospital.  There  was,  besides  this  instttation,  an  hospital 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  a  Domus-Dei,  established  in  Berwick  at  a  very  early  period. 

^  It  appears,  from  the  foUowing  Order  of  Giuld,  that,  alffaoagh  the  Mercer's  company  iiaid  the  lecturer 
and  approved  of  his  nomination,  the  right  of  deotion  was,  at  c»e  time,  vested  in  the  ooiporatimi>-''  At  the 
adjournment  <^the  head  guild  holden  2d  May,  1672,  Mr.  Young  elected  by  the  guild  to  be  lecturer,  &&-« 
This  day  the  guild  did  freely  and  unanimously  agree  and  make  <^oice  of  Mr.  Roger  Young,  minister  of  Yar- 
row, near  Newcastle,  (who  lately  preached  here)  to  be  our  lecturer,  and  do  order  that  a  letter  be  writ  to  the 
Mercer,  to  desire  their  allowance  and  approbation  of  him,  and  that  the  guild  shall  give  him  a  call  to  the  same, 
and  he  to  have  the  50/.  per  annum,  granted  and  allowed  by  the  Mercer,  and  the  salary  to  tike  being  at  Lady« 
day  jpiot"— Orders  of  GitUd. 

f  In  the  year  n^9,  Joseph  Watson,  esq.  bequeathed  5l  annually  to  each  of  the  ministers  of  the  Low  and 
High  Meeting  Houses,  and  lOL  to  twenty  poor  women,  householders  in  Berwick,  to  be  nominated  by  tlie 
mioiflters  and  elders. 


S»«  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

to  a  citizen  oaUed  Knut  the  Opul^it,  and  having  his  wife  on  board,  bdi^  about  tliif . 
time  taken  by  Erland,  earl  of  Orkney »  Knut  hired  fourteen  vessels,  with  a  competent 
number  of  men,  for  one  hundr^ ,  marks  o£  silver,  and  went  in  chase  of  the  pirates^ 
who  had  anchored  for  the  night  at  atft  of  the  adjacent  islands.  In  1210,  the  fordgn 
trade  of  Scotland  was  chiefly  ocHfducted  by  the  merchants  of  Berwick,  who,  at  this 
time,  were  very  much  annoyed  by  the  garrison  of  a  fort  erected  by  king  John  at 
Tweedmouth,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  rae  river,  which,  on  that  account,  was  twice 
demolished  by  king  William. 

The  trade  of  Scotland,  which,  since  the  reign  of  Macbeth,  had  be^i  an  object  of 
attention  to  foreign  merchants,  acquired  a  high  degree  of  importance  under  the  aus- 

J>ices  of  Alexander  III.  and  the  greatest  merSiants  in  Europe  made  proposals  to  him 
or  establishing  trading  ports  in  various  parts  of  Scotland.  In  Berwick  a  factory  was 
actually  established  by  some  Flemiah  merchants,  whose  farav^y  in  defence  of  their 
hall  was  before  noticed. 

At  this  time  B^*wick  sent  representatives  to  the  court  of  the  jPWr  burghs  in  Seotf 
land,  which  appears  to  have  been  a  board  of  trade  and  police.  It  may,  indeed,  be 
doubted,  if  Berwick,  ev^n  in  the  present  day,  be  equal  to  what  it  was  in  the  peace- 
able and  prosperous  rdgn  of  Alexander  III.*  In  1888,  king  Edward  III.  luiving 
become  master  of  Berwick,  was  desirous  of  repairing  the  ravages  it  had  suffered,  ana 
for  this  purpose  issued  a  ^^m^lamation,  inviting  merchants  to  make  it  their  plaoe  of 
residence ;  but  in  about  twenty  years  afterwards,  the  king  and  parliament  decree^ 
**  that  no  person,  native  or  foreigner,  should  carry  wocd,  hides,  or  wool^dts  to  Ber*- 
'  wick  upon  Tweed,  or  sell  them  to  any  native  of  Scotland,  or  to  any  pearson  that  would 
earry  them  to  that  kingdom,  under  the  pain  of  death  and  forfeiture."  In  1399»  this 
order  was  relaxed,  and  the  merchants  oi  Berwick  were  authorised  to  expwt  all  th^ 
wool  produced  on  the  north  side  of  the  Coquet  river  in  any  place  whatsoever ;  and 
in  1414,  the  parliament  confirmed  this  privilege  of  exemption  from  the  staple  lawa 
In  the  year  1429,  the  men  of  Berwick  and  Newcastle  were  ordered  to  carry  their 
staple  goods  to  Calais,  as  other  suhgects  of  the  English  crown  were  obliged  to  do« 
'After  uus  few  notices  of  the  trade  of  Berwick  occur  until  the  year  1698,  that  king 
Chaiies  ineornorated  Thomas  H<»th,  and  other  masters  of  ships,  who  wer;^  ^oapow* 
ered  to  buy  sill  coals  exported  from  Berwick,  Newcastle,  Blytib,  and  Sunderland. 

The  prindpai  source  of  the  trade  of  Berwidk  is  the  salmon  fishery,  whidi  eom^ 
mences  the  10th  day  of  January,  and  terminates  the  10th  day  of  October,f  Seventy 
%oats  are  usually  employed  in  the  fishery,  in  each  of  which  are  lAx  m«n.  From  four 
to  five  hundred  fish  are  sometimes  drawn  ashore  at  one  draught.    The  mode  ei  fish- 

m 

*  In  12B6»  no  other  port  of  S^tUnd^  in  .point  of  commercial  importance,  came  near  to  a  comparison  with 
J^wic)^  which,  according  to  the  Chronicle  of  Lanercoet,  might  be  called  a  second  Alexandria.    King  Alex- 
ander fUBsjgned  the  customs  of  it  to  a  merchant  qf  Gasco^gne  for  2197^  Ss.  sitsr^g.^^MacpkersoR's  Jnnab  <f 
Commerce,  vol.  u  p«  446, 


f  Thf  SsMpa  were  ^be  fiyst  SAen  in  this  island  Hie  andtfit  Britons  worahi|qped  the  waters,  andj  eoste* 
^aenlily^  levered  tlie  finny  tribe.  The  Irish,  the  Welabi  wi  the  Gaelic  Hi^^anders^  still  evince  some  avsN 
fion  to  fishing.    The  latter  call  the  Lowlanders,  in  derision, ''  Fish-eaters." 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  89,7 

mg  is  thus  described  by  Mr.  Pennant : — **  One  man  goes  off  in  a  small  fiat-bottomed 
boat,  square  at  one  end^  and  taking  as  large  a  cirde  as  his  net  admits,  brings  it  on 
shore  at  the  extremity  of  his  bomicbry,  where  others  assist  in  landing  it.  To  it  may 
be  also  added,  that  in  the  middle  of  the  river  10  a  luge  stone  (or  ladder),  on  which  a 
man  is  placed,  to  observe  what  is  called  the  Reck  ^f  the  Salmon  coming  up,"  The 
fisheries  lie  on  both  rides  of  the  river,  but  those  on  tlw  south  side  are  reckoned  the 
best.    The  limits  of  each  water,  as  it  is  called,  are  distinctly  marked. 

Previous  to  the  year  ITST*  all  the  salmon  sent  to  London  from  Berwick  were  boiled 
and  put  into  kits ;  but  since  that  time  they  have  been  sent  in  boxes  stratified  with 
ice,  by  which  mode  they  are  preserved  fresh  for  a  oonsideraUe  time.  In  1816,  10,S15 
boxes  of  fresh  salmon  were  shipped  at  Berwidc ;  each  box  containing  six  stone,  at  an 
average  of  eleven  shillings  per  stone.  Diuing  the  same  period,  not  less  than  S00,000 
salmon,  gilses,  and  trouts,  were  taken  in  the  river  Tweed,  the  creator  proportion  of 
which  was  exported  to  Lond(m  in  ice,  the  yearly  expense  of  which  amounts  to 
nearly  £  900. 

In  the  year  1799,  Dr.  Fuller  estimated  the  rental  of  the  fishing  water  in  the 
Tweed,  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  Norham,  a  distance  of  seven  mues,  at  £  10,000 
yearly.  But  the  Rev.  Thomas  Jolmstone  says,  that  in  1816,  the  rental  was  from 
£  25,000  to  £  80,000.  Since  that  time  the  rentals  have  rapidly  declined.  One  gen* 
tleman,  who  let  a  fishing  for  £  8800  per  annum,  in  1821  made  a  deduction  of  1000 

Siineas ;  and  this  year,  1822,  the  tenants'  success  has  been  much  worse.  The  present 
stress,  arising  from  the  scarcity  of  salmon,  has  also  been  greatly  augmented  by  the 
want  of  ice.  A  vessel  was  sent  in  the  spring  to  Norway  for  a  cargo  of  this  indispen^* 
sable  article. 

Formerly  the  fish  were  carried  by  land  to  Newcastle,  and  there  cured  and  shipped 
for  London,  where  they  are  to  this  day  called  Newcastle  salmon.  About  the  middle 
ci  the  eighteenth  century,  vessels  from  Harwich,  fitted  with  wells,  used  to  cany  live 
salmon  nom  Berwick  to  the  London  market  The  people  of  Berwick  afterwards 
took  the  trade  into  theur  own  hands.  Their  vessels  are  fast  sailers,  stout,  well  founds 
and  remarkable  for  making  quick  passages.  The  excellent  invention  of  canrying  fish 
in  pulverized  ice  enabled  them  to  extend  their  trade  very  much ;  and  thdr  dispatch 
obtained  a  decided  preference  in  cairying  goods  and  passengers. 

Eggs  are  also  a  very  lucrative  artide  of  trade.  They  are  brought  to  Berwick  from 
all  ip^ks  of  the^country  on  both  sides  of  the  Tweed,  in  carts  and  panniers.  In  the 
year  181  tf,  there  were  sent  to  London  4788  chests  of  eggs,  each  chest  containing  1600^ 
at  the  average  price  of  seven  shillings  and  sixpence  per  hundred,  which  amounts  to 
£  28,728,  At  present,  this  branch  of  trade  is  greatly  declined,  the  Berwick  merchants 
being  undersold  by  the  French  in  the  London  markets.  It  is  worthy  of  remark^ 
that  the  packers  are  so  dexterous  at  their  trade  as  to  pack  a  chest  of  1600  eg^  within 
an  hour,  laying  a  little  straw  between  each  row ;  ana  what  adds  to  the  surprise  of  the 
stranger  is,  that  the  packer  examines  every  ^g  with  a  candle,  placed  in  the  middle  of 
the  MX  during  the  time  of  packing,  and  though  they  are  not  counted,  yet  a  mistake 
seldom  occurs  in  tiiie  number.    For  many  years  it  was  agreat  desideratum  to  preserve 

gs  from  putrefaction.    They  were  usually  buried  in  salt,  or  rubbed  with  butter  or 

ilow,  which  latter  had  a  oonsideraUe  effect  in  filling  up  the  pores  of  the  shell*    Af^ 

4F 


s 


398  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTIDW  OF 

terwards  tKey  were  kept  in  a  solutioii  of  alkali ;  but  lime-water  ia  now  used»  and  ia 
said  to  answer  the  purpose  completely. 

Larffe  quantities  of  pork  and  wool  are  annually  exported^  and  the  auantitiea  of 
ffrain  snipped  at  this  port  are  exceeded  by  few  other  plaoes  in  the  kingdom.  Meid^ 
flour,  potatoes,  herrings,  buttef ,  candles,  paper,  leather,  tallow,  cauTas,  &c.  are  also 
exported  to  a  considerable  amount.  The  goods  brought  in  coastwise  are  also  cc»isi^ 
derable ;  but  it  would  be  tedious  to  enumoate  them,  as  they  consist  of  all  the  various 
articles  of  English  manufacture  and  general  merchandise  required  for  the  use  and 
consumption  of  the  neighbouring  country.  Berwick  does  not  possess  much  fcureign 
commerce :  it  consists  cMefly  in  importing  from  the  Baltic  the  wood,  iron,  &c.  wanted 
for  the  construction  of  houses  and  vessels. 

From  the  mouth  of  Berwick  harbour,  a  range  of  low  rocks  run  up  the  north  side 
of  the  river  1278  feet ;  then  changing  their  course,  run  798  feet  in  a  straight  line  to* 
wards  the  land  on  the  same  side.  A  capacious  bason,  called  the  Meadow  Haven,  lies 
behind  these  rocks.  It  is  formed  by  them  and  two  other  ridges  in  the  north-north- 
west and  north-east  of  the  bason.  This  haven  has  a  level  sandy  bottom,  and  is  quite 
dry  at  low  water.  In  the  north  side  of  it  there  is  an  opening  into  the  sea  between  a 
small  nointed  rock,  standing  by  itself,  and  the  range  of  rocks  (m  the  east  of  it,  wide 
enough  to  admit  a  smack  to  pass.  Thcsre  is  a  simiJnr  outlet  in  the  east  comer  of  this 
haven  sufficiently  wide  to  let  large-sLsed  vessels  out  to  sea.  The  white  fishennen 
have  made  a  gnt^  or  opening,  from  the  river  into  the  haven  near  that  comar  whare  the 
rocks,  formerly  mentioned,  bend  towards  the  land.  When  the  weather  is  unfavour* 
able  for  them  to  put  to  sea  by  the  river  mouth,  they  row  th^  boats  through  the  gut 
into  the  haven  above-mentioned,  and  proceed  by  the  north  or  east  passage  formerly 
pointed  out. 

On  these  rocks  were  the  foundations  of  a  pier,  called  Queen  Elizabeth's  pier,  which 
measured  925  feet  in  length,  and  S5  feet  m  breaddi,  and  the  side  that  run  towards 
the  land  638  feet  in  length*  In  1810  a  new  pier  was  commenced  upon  the  scite  of 
the  old  one.  The  estimated  expense  was  £40,000.  It  is  now  finished,  and  forms  a 
most  noble  monument  of  the  Spirit  and  enlightened  policy  of  the  inhabitants  of  Ber* 
wick.*  In  good  tides  the  water  rises  to  about  18  feet.  The  navigable  dbtannel  for 
ships  of  burden  is  only  30  feet  broad.  The  distance  between  the  pia*  and  the  quay 
is  850  yards.  The  quay  is  divided  into  the  old  and  the  new  quays ;  the  former  is 
SOS  feet  in  len^h,  and  the  latter  836.  The  dry  dock  will  hold  nve  smaeks.  On  the 
quay  are  the  different  offices  and  warehouses  occupied  by  the  merdMats  of  the  town. 

The  Old  Shipping  Company  and  Union  Shipping  Company  fcmnerly  emidoyed 
above  twenty  smacks  in  the  London  trade.  Passeogers  and  goods  for  the  melropwi5 
came  from  all  the  southern  and  western  parts  of  Scotland  to  Bervrick.  At  last,  mese 
companies,  from  a  spirit  of  rivalry,  sent  their  vessels  round  to  Leith  to  save  land- 
carriage.  The  merchants  of  Leith  so<m  pere^ved  the  advantages  derived  fix>m  this 
trade,  and  fitted  up  smacks  with  very  superior  accommodations,  which  ruined  the 


*  The  cofporatioii  of  Benriek  gencroiMly  vested  the  fhore-dnes  ia  tiie  bands  of  the  oannuirioiicn  for 
baildhig  the  pier  and  impn>viiig  the  harboar ;  and  the  bnrgeaaea  Toltmtarily  reaigned  their  exenptien  Iron 
the  payment  of  these  dues.    Such  an  honouiaUe  display  of  public  spirit  aeldom  ocone. 


BERWICK  UPON  TWEED.  999 


csaxymg  trade  of  Berwick.     Though  the  companies  are  now  united,  only 
smacks  are  employed  in  the  Londcm  trade. 

There  are  41  public  houses  in  Berwick,  besides  three  prindpal  inns.*  The  Red 
Lion  is  a  very  liurge  and  commodious  inn,  having  a  coffee-room  and  an  elegant  assem^ 
bly-room.  The  King^s  Arms  is  also  a  very  fine  onilding,  and  is  much  frequented  by 
travellers.  The  Hen  and  Chickens  and  the  Angel  inns  are  likewise  well  supported 
by  the  numerous  travellers  that  visit  this  place. 

The  poor-house  stands  on  the  north-east  side  of^Castleg^te,  and  was  formerly  used 
as  a  sack  manufactory.  The  situation  is  healthy,  and  the  building  is  fitted  up  in  a  most 
comfortable  and  commodious  manner.  It  at  present  contains  lOS  inmates,  including 
80  children.  They  are  kept  remarkably  dean,  and  the  children  are  instructed  in 
reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  A  permanent  overseer  was  lately  appointed,  with 
a  salary  of  £  100  per  annum.  This  alteration  is  thought  to  be  advantageous  to  the 
parish.  Connected  with  the  poor-house  is  a  lunatic  asylum,  built  in  the  year  1813, 
and  containing  four  cells. 

In  1682,  Valentine  More,  esq.  of  London,  secured  a  sum  of  money  upon  Cock* 
Law,  a  farm  bdonging  to  the  corporati<Mi  of  Berwick,  for  which  they  were  annually 
to  pay  £10  to  ten  poor  men,  or  ten  poor  women.  Rog^  Tweedy,  of  Stepney,  esq. 
in  1652,  left  a  donation  of  twelve  two^penny  loaves,  to  be  distributed  in  tne  church 
every  Sunday  by  the  minister  and  church«wardens,  to  twelve  of  the  poorest  of  the 
congregation.  In  1758,  Mr.  John  Brown,  of  Berwick,  bequeathed  £1000  to  five 
trustees,  who  were  to  appoint  their  successors,  and  enjoined  them  to  pay  the  interest 
thereof,  at  quarterly  payments,  to  ten  poor  men  and  ten  poor  women,  living  in  the 
town,  and  protestants.  In  the  20th  guild-book,  1676,  there  is  a  memorandum  rela- 
tive to  a  ^prant  of  £10  per  annum  to  ten  poor  people,  by  a  Mr.  Mortoff.  Sir  Robert 
Jackson,  m  1645,  ^ave  by  will  £50,  and  the  corpcnration,  in  1652,  by  deed,  £350,  for 
a  house  of  correctum  and  the  poor  therein.  The  rent  charge  of  the  land  purchased 
by  these  sums  in  1787  was  £45  per  annum. 

There  is  a  diarity*school  in  Berwick,  which  is  said  to  owe  its  rise  to  the  humane 
and  benevolent  exertions  of  a  captain  Bolton.  The  house  stands  in  the  west  side  of 
the  back-way,  and  was  built  in  th^  year  1725.  Twenty  boys  and  six  girls  were 
clothed  and  educated  by  this  charity ;  but,  by  a  late  regulation,  girls  are  excluded 
and  the  school  is  to  be  arranged  so  as  to  admit  about  40  boys,  l^erceval  Clennel, 
late  of  Lilbum,  in  the  county  of  Northumberland^  esq.  bequeathed  £50  to  this  insti« 
tation ;  the  late  Mr.  John  Brown,  of  Berwick,  £  100 ;  captain  James  Bolton^  above 
mentioned,  £800;  Mr.  John  BdA,  cooper,  £20;  George  Reed,  esq.  £5;  Robert 
Edmunston,  esq.  £919  2#.  Sd.  being  two-tenths  of  his  personal  estate;  £100  was 
lately  given  by  an  unknown  hand ;  and  £1000  stock  in  the  3  per  cents  has  just  been 
4>equeathed  by  a  Mr.  Cole,  of  Memel,  who  was  a  native  of  Berwick,  and  had  realized 
a  fortune  on  the  ocmtinent.  Thk  gaitl^oaan  has  also  left  an  equal  sum  to  the  parish 
of  Berwick. 

*  The  totwn  ootitniM  35  grocers^  16  linen  and  woollen  drapers,  14  master  ooopen^  12  beot  and  shoe  makers^ 
9  master  tailors,  7  odbinet  makers,  7  bakers,  and  b  visited  by  S3  carriers.    From  jfchis  some  idea  of  the  intfr« 
-md  inde  of  Berwick  may  be  formed. 


300  HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 

« 

There  are  six  free  schools  belonging  to  the  corporation.  This  spirited  body  has 
lately  built  a  large  and  elegant  school-house,  conisisting  of  five  spacious  rooms,  ivith 
suitable  offices,  which  are  appropriated  for  the  mathematical  school,  the  writing,  and 
the  three  reading  schools.  It  is  most  delightfHilly  situated  on  the  Bank-hill,  facing 
the  Tweed,  commanding  a  complete  view  of  the  bridge.  The  situation  is  dry,  and 
has  a  free  ventilation,  which  must  contribute  highly  to  the  health  of  tlie  soiolars. 
The  grammar  school,  where  the  classics  are  taught,  adjoins,  and  has  lately  been  rebuilt 
on  a  most  commodious  scale.  The  master  of  this  school  has  £  80  per  annum,  with  a 
house  and  garden,  and  the  liberty  of  taking  an  unlimited  number  of  non-freemen's 
children.  The  funds  arise  from  the  fourth  part  of  an  estate  called  Cold  Martin's 
Farm,  producing  £  70  per  annum,  and  a  sixtn  of  Cheswick  tythes,  yielding  £  60  a 
year.     Wearly  four  hundi-ed  scholars  attend  the  corporation  schools. 

A  school  of  industry  was  established  in  1819,  under  the  patronage  of  the  young 
ladies  of  Berwick,  for  the  education  of  86  poor  female  children.  In  the  poor^-house 
school  from  100  to  120  children  are  taught  on  the  new  system.  The  master  has  £60 
a  year  from  the  parish.  The  Lancasterian  school  for  100  boys  is  supported  by  sub^ 
scription.  There  are,  besides  these,  twelve  private  schools  in  this  town.  The  Sun- 
day-school system  is  also  pursued  with  such  zeal,  intelligence,  and  success,  as  may 
perhaps  be  equalled,  but  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  other  town  in  the  kingdom ; 
nor  is  there  any  plac^  where  such  a  portion  of  the  labouring  poor  can  have  their  chil- 
dren gratuitously  taught  the  elements  of  education.  This  is  an  advantage  which 
cannot  be  too  highly  appreciated. 

A  dispensary  was  instituted  in  1814,  to  which  a  physician,  a  surgeon,  and  an  apo- 
thecary are  attached.  This  benevolent  establishment  has  been  found  highly  useful 
to  the  indigent  sufferer.  In  the  same  year,  a  bible  society  was  foimded;  and  in 
1816  a  saving  bank  was  established  for  the  parishes  of  Berwick  and  Tweedmouth. 

There  are  a  number  of  benefit  societies  in  B«!wick,  which  have  an  excellent  tend- 
ency. The  nature  of  these  useful  institutions  is  better  known  in  the  ncnlh  than  in 
the  south  of  the  kingdom.  .  Here  are  also  two  mason  lodges,  and  an  association  of 
gardeners. 

Many  useful  improvements  have  been  lately  made  in  this  town.  The  streets  are 
better  paved,  though  much  remains  to  be  done  in  this  respect.  The  narrow  pass  at 
Scotchgate  has  been  widened ;  Hide-hill  has  assumed  a  new  aspect ;  and  a  gate  has 
been  opened  at  the  end  of  the  street  called  the  Nest,  which  gives  a  dinect  communis 
cation  with  the  new  pier.  An  excellent  road  was  made,  by  subscription,  to  the  pier, 
in  1816 ;  and  another  down  the  steep  banks  near  the  old  castle,  and  along  the  side  of 
the  river.     Still,  however,  both  strangers  and  the  inhabitants  are  annoyed  by  the 

gutrid  exhalations  that  arise  from  the  blood  and  excrements,  which,  proceeding 
rom  the  butchers'  shambles,  spread  over  the  streets.  This  is  a  most  intolerable  nuir 
sance,  highly  disgraceful  to  the  town.  The  great  inconvenience  arising  from  having 
so  populous  a  town,  situated  on  the  great  post  road,  shut  up  by  gates,  is  generally 
felt,  and  will*  it  is  hoped,  be  shortly  removed.  The  corporation,  it  is  said,  lately  pe- 
titioned government  for  leave  to  pull  down  the  gate  at  the  south  end  of  the  bridge, 
and  also  Scotchgate,  but  without  effect.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  application  will 
be  earnestly  repeated,  until  these  nuisances  are  removed.    Sometimes  caravans^  on 


BERWICK  UPOJf  TWEED.  |^ 

readung  Tweedmouth,  are  found  too  iof ty  to  pass  the  bridge,  and  are  oUijnd;  to  re? 
turn  and  enter  Scotland  by  Coldstream.  The  turn  from  Bridge-street  to  tn^  bridge 
has  lately  been  widened  and  improved.  The  removing  of  the'  Main-guard  from  the 
centre  of  the  High-street  deserves  to  be  mentioned  as  a  most  invaluable  improvq^ 
ment ;  but  the  Town-hall  must  remain,  though  it  renders  this  street  both  contracted 
and  disagreeable.  Perhaps,  at  some  future  period,  the  buildings  on  both  sides  may 
be  puUea  down,  and  rebuilt  at  a  greater  distance.* 

The  garrison  of  Berwick  consists  of  a  governor,  a  deputy-governor,  a  town-major, 
and  adjutant ;  a  surgeon  and  a  non-resident  chaplain ;  a  master  gunner,  and  six  in-* 
valid  gunners.  There  are  also  an  ordnance  store-keeper,  a  barrack-master,  and  the 
commanding  engineer  of  the  northern  district  has  an  establishment  in  the  garrison. 
The  governor's  salary  is  £586,  7^.  Id.  per  annum.  In  1803,  a  volunteer  artillery 
company  was  embodied  here.  The  Berwick  Loyal  Volunteer  Corps  was  incorporated 
with  the  Northumberland  Local  Militia. 

There  are  few  curiosities  in  Berwick  or  its  neighbourhood,  sufficient  to  attract  the 
attention  of  the  stranger.  The  remains  of  the  om  castle  is  by  far  the  most  striking 
piece  of  antiquity.  They  are  situated  on  the  north  banks  of  the  Tweed,  about  400 
yards  north  by  west  from  the  Scotch  gate.  Nothing  remains  of  this  important  for- 
tress but  a  confused  heap  of  stones.  The  date  of  its  building  is  unknown ;  but  it, 
no  doubt,  owes  its  origin  to  the  Northumbrian  Anglo-Saxons.  Being  environed 
with  a  wide  ditch,  and  flanked  by  many  round  towers  and  thick  walls,  uie  approach 
to  it  was  ver}'^  difficult;  so  that,  before  the  invention  of  cannon,  it  was  deemed 
almost  impregnable. 

The  Bell  tower,  which  stands  about  400  yards  north  by  east  from  the  castle,  seems 
to  have  been  used  as  an  exploratory  tower ;  and  when  an  enemy  appeared,  a  signal 
was  given  by  ringing  a  beU.  This  tower  is  still  about  four  stones  nigh,  and  being 
built  on  the  wall,  where  the  ground  is  most  elevated,  it  commands  a  most  extensive 
prospect.  According  to  traction,  there  was  a  covered  way  between  the  tower  and 
the  castle. 

When  the  old  Town-house  was  taken  down,  three  pieces  of  timber-work  were 
found  among  the  rubbish,  which,  when  joined  together,  represent  a  hero  holding  a 
sceptre  in  his  right  hand,  with  his  left  arm  hanging  over  the  neck  of  the  figure  of  a 
horse,  whose  head  projects  frcnn  below  that  arm.  They  are  supposed  to  have  been 
affixed  to  the  stem  of  one  of  the  vessels  composing  tbe  Spanish  Armada,  and  which 
was  driven  ashore  at  that  memorable  period. 

The  greatest  natural  curiosity  of  Berwick  is  that  of  quicksilver,  in  a  pure  state» 
which  has  been  found,  at  two  dmerent  periods,  in  digging  for  a  cellar,  and  the  foun^ 
dation  of  a  house  in  Hide-hill,  near  a  mineral  spring  ml^  the  Catwell.     In  futiu^, 

*  In  1S07,  a  project  was  agitated,  of  forming  a  railway  f^otn  Glasgow  to  Berwick.  Mr.  Telford  completed 
a  regular  survey  in  1 S 10.  The  total  expense  was  estimated  at  365,700^  and  the  probable  annual  revalue  at 
55,559L  which,  after  deducting  10,000^  for  repairs  and  management,  would  leave  a  return  of  12  per  cent  to 
the  proprietors.  Mr.  Jessop  revised  and  approved  the  report,  estimates,  &c  Some  gentlemen  pn^xMed,  at 
the  same  time,  to  commence  the  rail- way  at  Kelso  and  to  carry  it  down  to  Tweedmouth.  But  die  compete 
tion  of  individual  interests  prevented  the  execution  of  both  these  plans. 

VOL.  I.  4  G 


m 


HISTORY  AND  DESCRIPTION,  &c. 


the  inhabitants  will  be  freely  supplied  with  diis  mineral  watar  by  a  pipe  on  the  east 
'si4^  of  the  street. 

The  inhabitants  of  Berwick  are  humane,  intelligent,  and  enterprizing ;  though  it  is 
to  be  regretted,  that  political  antipathies,  the  bane  of  social  happiness^  prevail  too 
much,  ft  must  be  granted,  that  rehgion  and  politics  are  the  two  most  interesting  sub- 
jects that  can  occupy  the  mind  of  man,  but  those  who  have  investigated  them  the 
most  deeply  are  always  the  most  moderate.  The  labouring  poor  have  all  that  econo- 
my and  mdustry  which  distin&niish  the  Scotch  people,  except  some  of  the  lazy  bur- 
g^es,  who,  amending  on  thi  ^s  arising  from  their  stints,  neglect  their  f^es 
and  employments,  and  waste  then*  time  in  tippling  and  brawling  m  low  pot-houses. 
It  is  highly  to  the  honour  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  town,  that  no  person  has  been 
executed  here  since  the  year  I76O. 

The  higher  class  in  Berwick  live  in  a  very  retired  manner.  The  assemblies  in  ho- 
nour  of  the  king's  birth-day,  and  those  during  Lamberton  race-week,  are  almost 
the  only  occasions  on  which  they  exchange  the  pleasing  civilities  of  social  life. 
So  uncompromising  are  the  political  feelings  of  the  gentry,  that  every  attempt  to 
establish  a  coffee-house  and  news-room  has  failed !  By  some  this  illiberal  spirit  is 
attributed  to  the  frequency  of  contested  elections. 

The  theatre  is  very  elegant,  and  was  erected  in  Hide-hill  about  twenty-seven  years 
a^o,  by  the  late  Stephen  Kemble,  esq.  A  public  library  was  instituted  in  181S, 
v^ich  is  at  present  supported  by  185  subscribers,  each  of  whom  pay  one  guinea  at 
entrance,  and  one  guinea  per  annum.  Those  who  subscribe  twelve  guineas  hold  a 
share  for  life ;  but  a  subscription  of  twenty  guineas  renders  the  share  transferable  and 
descendible  in  peipetuity.  The  books  are  kept  in  a  neat  saloon,  adjoining  the  shop 
of  the  librarian,  Mr.  John  Reid,  bookseller,  in  Bridge-street,  There  are  also  two  cir- 
culating libraries  in  Berwick, 

The  ramparts  are  the  promenade  to  which  all  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  Berwick 
resort.  From  the  northern  quarter  of  the  town  the  scenery  is  cold,  bare,  and  repul- 
sive ;  but  the  prospect  from  the  bridge  is  highly  enlivening,  where  the  trans{^arent 
Tweed  is  seen  gliding  through  many  artless  wmdings,  between  its  luxuriant  and 
grassy  banks,  while  in  the  south-east  Bambrough  castle  forms  a  singular  and  romantic 
object,  and  Holy  Island  is  perceived  in  the  sKirts  of  the  horizon.  Various  parts  in 
the  environs  of  Berwick  command  the  most  enchanting  views,  particularly  from  Hal- 
lydown-hill,  Letham  Farm,  and  the  delightful  yilla  of  Sanson  Seal,  belonging  to 
}ieutenant-gene]ral  Francis  D\inda8, 


)i 


AN 

HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  VIEW 

OF  THOSE 

PARTS  OF  THE  COUNTY  OF  DURHAM, 

jBITUATED   BETWEEN  THE   EIVERS 

ISIiANDSHntE. 

HIS  appendage  to  the  county  palatine  of  Durham  was  confirmed  to 
the  church  during  the  reign  of  Alfred  the  Great,  since  which  time 
it  has  continued  under  the  special  jurisdiction  of  the  bishops  of 
Durham.  Islandshire  and  Norhamshire  are  sittfated  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  county  of  Northumberland,  and  comprehend  a 
triangula:!^  space,  ■  the  two  sides  of  whidi  are  formed  by  the  river 
Tweei  and  German  Ocean,  and  the  base  the  northern  boundary  of 
Glendale  and  Bambroii^h  wards.  They  contain  7S  square  miles  of 
well  inclosed  cultivated  country ;  the  mms  being  large  and  judiciously  managed. 
The  soil  of  these  districts  is  a  strong  and  fertile  d^,  mixed  with  loam,  except  a  tract 
up  Tweedside ;  and  another,  stretching  from  the  Till  to  Comhill,  which  is  rich  fria- 
ble dry  loam,  and  constitutes  an  excefient  turnip  soil.  Lime  and  coal  abound,  but 
the  latter  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  Stone  marie  is  found,  in  great  quantities,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Tweed.  Monsieur  Jorvin,  who  wrote  an  account  of  England  and  Scot* 
land,  published  at  Paris  in  the  year  1672,  describes  the  country  south  of  Berwick  to 
Ashton  as  being  covered  with  heath  and  briars.  *<  All  this  searcoast,''  he  adds,  **  is 
covered  with  sand-banks,  and  the  interior  country  to  JBel/brd  an  entire  desert^  as  it  is 
far  above  20  miles  round  about '^  Only  a  few  years  ago  this  district  had  a  naked  ste- 
rile appearance,  from  behug  $4most  destitute  of  trees  or  hedge  rows.  But  now  plan- 
tations are  seen  rUmg  up  in  every  direction;  the  hedges  have  attained  thejr  full 
maturity ;  the  commons  are  divided,  drained,  and  produce  the  most  luxuriant  crops  \ 
{md  the  farmers  have  acquired  a  just  celebrity  for  knowledge  and  enterprize, 


ll^ 

-*.iL^.^^^^:;gir^ 

^j^^'-'-u  -:^i^| 

"H^ 

E^ ' 

^^^i^   -I 

a^S^   i 

^^^^^^^\      A 

804  ISLANDSHIRE. 

In  describing  the  temttnies  of  the  chuieh  in  Northumberland,  it  will  be  premier  to 
0(Hnmenoe  wim  the  histoiy  of  the  famed 

LINDISFARN, 

Or  Holy  Island,  as  it  is  otften  improperly  called.*  In  this  place  the  opulence  and 
honours  of  the  see  of  Durhiun  had  their  (nigin.  As  the  early  history  of  this  bishopric 
is  intimately  connected  with  oiu-  subject,  and  is  in  itself  highly  curious  and  interest- 
ing, it  must  be  perused  with  pleasure  by  every  inquisitive  reader,  particularly  as  it 
elucidates  the  manners,  opinions,  and  religious  practices  of  our  progenitors. 

The  conversion  of  the  kingdom  of  Northumbria  had  been  but  partly  effected  when 
Edwin  feH  btfore  the  ferocious  Penda,  king  of  Mevcia.  During  the  miseries  that 
followed,  the  converts  were  deprived  of  instruction,  and  ea^y  relapsed  into  their 
former  idolatry :  but  at  length  the  intrepid  and  pious  Oswald  appeared  at  the  h^id 
of  the  distracted  Northumbnana,  and  avenged  the  calamities  of  his  family  and  country, 
at  Heavenfield,  near  Hexham.  As  this  pnnce  piously  attributed  his  success  to  the  fa- 
voiu-  of  heaven,  he  immediately  bent  Im  attrition  to  the  concerns  of  religion,  and  soli- 
cited a  supply  of  missionaries  from  his  former  instructors,  the  Scotch.f  Gorman  was 
sent,  a  monk  of  a  severe  and  unpliant  disposition,  who,  disgusted  witn  the  ignorance 
and  barbarism  of -the  Saxons,  speedily  returned  in  despair  to  his  monastry.  Aidan,  a 
monk  of  the  house  of  lona,  was  next  selected  to  be  the  apostle  of  the  Northumbrians, 
and  the  issue  of  his  labours  justified  the  wisdom  of  the  choice.  This  indefatigable 
missionary  was  assisted  and  encouraged  by  the  exertions  and  example  of  Oswald ; 
and  suflh  were  the  ^Eeete  of  their  united  labours,  that  in  the  ipace  of  seven  days 
15^000  perscHis  were  baptized,  and  the  church  <^  Northumbria  was  fixed  on  a  nerma- 
ment  bsipifi.  Many  oi  Aldan's  brethrai  left  Scotland  to  assist  in  the  holy  work,  and 
the  e|M$oopal  see  was  fixed  at  Lindisfam  about  the  year  634. 

This  place  was  |Nx>bably  chosen  by  Aidan  as  a  secure  retreat  from  the  ferodous  and 
unconverted  states,  whicn  were  perpetually  stining  up  feuds  against  the  Christians : 
and  as  Bibbprnburgh  was  the  place  of  royal  residence^  and  chief  fortress  of  the  North* 
umihrian  kingdom^  he  could  not  have  sheeted  a  more  eligible  situation.  It  was  also 
rendered  solemn  by  the  «wful  prospect  of  the  ocean,  and  was  eminently  calculated 
for  meditadcm  and  retirement,  being  periodically  shut  out  from  the  contineatal  inhar 
bitante.  The  architecture  of  the  Saxons  at  this  period  was  rude  and  barbarous,  and 
the  chui^ch  of  Lindisfam  was  built  of  split  oak,  covered  with  reeds.  Many  other 
ribces  of  shelt^  for  religious  wordiiip  were  erected  in  diiierent  parts,  and  the  audiences 
Deeame  muaerous.  Aldan's  feUow4abourers  formed  themselves  into  a  religious  90^ 
aety,  and  adopted  the  nKmastie  rules  of  their  ^eat  mast»,  St.  Columba.  Bede  bears 
honourable  testimony  to  their  virtue.  With  a  glowing  pencil  he  displays  their  pa^ 
tienoew  t^eir  chastity,  their  frequent  meditatikm  on  the  sacred  writings,  and  their 


« lOrose  Myft  that  tlib  idand  was  by  the  Britoitt  oaBed  Limi^^ 
fram  the  dppddle  contfaietit,  luns  into  Ae  aes;  and  the  Cdtie  weid  Feik^en,  or  raceat. 

t  See  page  37* 


LINDISPARN.  305 

indefatagable  eflfasts  to  attain  the  summite  oi  Christiaa  perfection.  They  chose  for 
tiieir  hiuiitatioii  die  most  dreary  dtuationfi ;  no  motives  but  tixoae  of  charity  could 
draw  them  from  their  ceUs ;  and,  if  they  appeared  in  puUic,  their  object  was  to  re- 
concile enemies,  to  instruct  the  ignorant,  to  discourage  vice,  amd  to  piead  the  cause 
of  the  unfortunate.  The  little  property  whidi  they  enjoyed  was  common  to  all; 
poverty  they  esteemed  as  the  surest  guardian  of  virtue;  ana  the  benefactions  of  the 
opulent  they  respectfiilly  declined,  or  inistantly  employed  in  relieving  the  necessities 
of  the  indigent*  Aidan  having  held  the  bishopric  of  Lindisfam  seventeen  years, 
died,  it  is  said,  through  grief  for  the  loss  oi  his  royal  patron,  Oswald,  whom  t'enda 
had  slain.f 

Finan,  in  the  year  651,  succeeded  Aidan  in  the  bishopric.  He  was  a  Briton,  and 
member  of  the  same  society  with  iiis  predecessor.  He  was  also  remarkable  for  his 
zeal  and  success.  He  baptized  two  rayai  converts,  Fenda,  the  Mercian  king,  and 
Segfoert,  Idn^  of  tbe  East  Angles ;  and  both,  on  returning  to  their  dominions,  took 
with  them  missionaries  invested  with  ^isoopal  powers.  Finan  was  bishop  ten  years, 
and  died  in  the  year  661.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  countryman  Coleman,  who  was 
bi^op  cmly  three  years.  Displeased  at  kifig  Oswy  taking  part  against  him  with  the 
Romanist,  toochittff  church  gov^mment,^  he  resigned  his  see,  and  returned  into  Scot- 
land. Thirty  Etn^shnien,  and  aQ  his  •countrymen  who  adhered  to  the  practices  of 
the  British  cnurch,  accompanied  him.  He  carried  with  him  some  of  the  remains  of 
Aidan,  as  hcfy  reiEies,  leaving  the  rest  in  the  church  of  Lindisfaxn^  which  afterwards 
were  removed  to  Glastonbury,  by  ord^  of  kin^  Edmund. 

Tuda  succeeded  to  tbe  epificopfd  di^ily^  bemg  the  first  of  tlm  see  who  adhered  to 
the  modes  and  principles  ik  Rome.  lie  came  into  England  with  Coleman.  Soon 
after  his  election  he  died  of  the  plague.  Cedda  was  next  raised  to  the  episcopal  seat ; 
but  York  was  made  the  bishop's  residence,  and  he  assumed  the  dignity  of  metr(^oli- 
tan  alt  the  recfuest  of  king  Alcred.  In  consequence  of  this  meaaure,  landisfam,  fo^r 
fourteen  years,  wanted  its  proper  bishop.  Cedda  was  a  man  of  great  humility,  and, 
at  the  instance  of  Al&ed  and  Qswy,  he  jresigned  his  bishojuic  in  mvour  of  Wilfrid. 

Wiifrid  was  the  preceptor  and  friend  of  Mng  Al&ed ;  he  was  a  Korthumbrian  by 

*  fiede^  Hb.  L  Malmesb.  ckgoit  Bcvntif.  lib.  ilL  Jsmlmia's  Hist  of  the  Culdees.  Also,  Lingard's  Hist, 
flf  die  Aiiglo<^8flKon  Chiurcli. 

i-  In  the  paintixigs  of  one  of  the  windows  in  the  cathedral  church  at  Durham,  St  Aidan  is  represented  in 
ills  epiaeo^  gt^A,  with  a  erozier  in  his  hand«  whilst  his  soul  is  carried  to  heaven  by  two  angels. 

t  This  dispute,  which  was  conducted  Willi  great  warmth  at  the  monaetry  of  Whitby,  relntel  to  Ibe  proper 
time  for  celebrating  Easter,  and^he  most  approved  method  of  wearing  the  eodesiMttod  •tonsiuee.  The  Rcwnan 
church,  about  the  middle  of  the  si^ih  eentuiy,  adojpted  a  Jiew  cyde,  with  nduch  the  British -Chiristiaiis  wteve 
unacquainted.  The  Romanists  also  shoved  ihe  .cromm  <xf  the  head,  which  was  surropnded  by  a  -cinfLe  ^f  hw» 
suppds^  to  represent  the  wreath  of  thorns  foroed  onithe  temples  of  the  MamOi ;  "Wh^t  the  Scottish  ,mi#- 
nonaries  permitted  the  htnr  to  grow  on  the  hindk,  land  dmved  -  in  itbe  form  of  a  oMscent  the  ikont  of  4tbe  .head. 
Cmch^party  was  stirpfifled  and  dicickedmt  tiie^unoamiiieal  appearance  joi  the  olher.  JBut  each  j>ertinacioiis\y 
adhered  to  thdr  own  opinion,  and  the  controversy  threatened  to  destroy  the  fabric  that  had  been  erected 
witbsoflmdh  khont  and  peiEsevermife. 

VOL.  I.  4  H 


S06  ISLANDSHIRE. 

birth,  and  received  his  education  at  Lindisfam.  During  his  episcopacy  Northumbria 
experienced  the  effects  of  his  jealous  and  turbulent  temper.  At  this  time  the  diocese 
of  Northumbria  stretched  from  the  Humber  to  the  Friths  of  Forth  and  Clyde,  and 
comprehended  several  tribes  of  Saxons  and  Picts.  No  powers  of  any  individual  were 
adequate  to  the  government  of  so  extensive  a  see.  Wilfrid  having  incurred  the  re- 
sentment of  his  sovereiffn,  Theodore,  the  archbishop  of  Canterbury,  improved  the 
opportunity,  and  severed  York  from  Lindisfam.  The  ejected  Wilfrid  received  the 
news  with  astonishment.  He  hastened  to  Rome,  laid  his  grievances  before  the. pon- 
tiff, and  received  a  mandate  for  his  plenary  restitution.  The  Northumbrian  monarch 
considered  this  appeal  an  aggravation  of  injury,  the  refractory  bishop  was  declared  an 
exile,*  and  the  see  of  Lindisfam  remained  for  ever  severed  from  York. 

The  politic  Theodore  had  consecrated  Eata  bishop  of  Lindisfam.  He  was  one  <^ 
the  pupils  of  Aldan,  and  had  left  the  abbacy  of  Mebos  to  receive  this  episcopacy. 
In  a  short  time  the  metropolitan  severed  Hexham  from  Lindisfam ;  but  Eata  could 
not  brook  this  injury,  and,  in  the  warmth  of  resentment,  he  questioned  Theodore's 
authority  over  the  northern  churches.  The  archbishop  was  a  powerful  adversary ; 
he  summoned  a  convention  on  the  banks  of  the  Aln,  in  684,  when  Eata,  for  his  con- 
tumacy, was  deposed.  On  this  event  Cuthburt  was  elected  to  Lindisfam,  and  Eata 
was  translated  to  Hexham ;  Theodore  not  presuming  to  carry  his  resentment  so  far 
as  entirely  to  degrade  him. 

Cuthbert,  the  great  saint  of  Northumbria,  from  whose  exemplary  and  wonderful 
life  the  church  derived  such  great  honours  and  immense  ridies,  calls  for  particular 
attention.  This  eminent  personage  was  bom  of  obscure  parents,  and  in  his  youth 
was  a  shepherd.  Whilst  feeding  nis  flocks,  it  is  said,  he  had  a  beatific  vision,  and 
saw  St.  Aidan's  spirit  ascend  up  mto  heaven.  Moved  by  this  supernatural  cause,  he 
applied  to  the  abbey  of  Melros,  where  he  gained  admittance  and  initiation.  During 
fourteen  years  residence  at  Melros,  the  religious  fraternity  entertained  the  highest 
veneration  and  love  for  his  character ;  and  when  Eata  removed  from  Melros  to  Lin- 
disfam, Cuthbert  accompanied  him,  and  was  made  prior.  Possessing  a  graceful  per- 
son, an  emphatic  and  clear  expression,  poignant  wit  and  eloquence,  and  enga^ng 
manners,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  that  his  doctrines  were  persuasive,  or  rather  ure- 
sistible.  For  twelve  years  he  governed  the  priory  of  Lin£sfam,  where  he  lived  an 
exemplary  life  for  piety  and  seU-denial,  and  never  ceased  his  exhortations  to  religion 
and  vuixie,  frequently  taking  joumies  into  the  desert  and  mountainous  parts  of  the 
country,  to  instruct  and  convert  the  most  barbarous  inhabitants.  At  length,  conceiv- 
ing that  the  luxiuy  and  ease  of  a  monastic  life  afforded  too  selfish  enjoyments,  and 
distracted  his  spirit  from  contemplation,  he  retired  frY)m  Lindisfam,  and  commenced 
the  life  of  an  anchorite,  in  the  largest  of  the  Earn  islands,  lying  opposite  to  Bam- 
brough,  and  within  sight  of  Lindii^am,  being  distant  from  thence  about  two  leagues. 
He  built  a  cell  with  a  small  oratory,  and  surrounded  it  with  a  wall,  which  cut  off  the 
view  of  every  oWect  but  heaven.  He  could  not  have  chosen  a  place  better  adapted 
to  a  life  of  mortincatipn  and  severity  than  this  island :  the  ancient  description  of  it  is 
horrible, — seated  near  a  stormy  coast»  surrounded  by  rocks,  over  which  the  sea  breaks 

*  Further  perticulart  of  this  remarkaUe  person  wiU  be  given  in  the  Uetoty  of  the  bishopric  of  Hexham. 


LINDISFARN.  807 

incessantly  with  ereat  tumult,  destitute  of  fresh  water,  without  tree  for  shelter,  or 
fruit-bearing  shnu>,  or  wherewithal  to  sustain  human  life ;  and  worse  than  all,  said 
to  be  possessed  by  devils.  But  the  happy  and  miraculous  chan^  which  took  place, 
on  Cuthbert's  taking  up  his  solitary  residence  there,  i^  too  singuhtr  to  escape  observa- 
tion :  the  flinty  rock  bubbled  with  fountains  of  fresh  water,  the  once  barren  soil  with 
prolific  abundance  brought  forth  grain,  trees  and  shrubs  bearing  fruit  decked  the 
smiling  shores,  the  troubled  waters  clapped  their  hands  for  joy,  the  plains  assumed  a 
mantle  of  green  embroidered  with  flowers,  the  evil  spirits  were  bound  in  eternal 
darkness,  and  angels  of  light  communed  with  the  anchorite. 

In  this  solitude  Cuthbert  lived  for  nine  years  preceding  the  synod  at  Twyford  on 
Aln,  where  he  was  elected  to  the  episcopacy.  He  shewed  great  reluctance  to  this 
new  dignity,  at  first  positively  refusing  the  nomination,  being  determined  not  to  quit 
his  cell,  and  the  austerities  he  had  made  habitual  to  him.  But  upon  the  king's  sail- 
ing over  to  the  island,  accompanied  by  many  nobles  and  .religious,  who  were  present 
at  the  synod,  he  was  prevailed  upon  by  the  tears  of  his  sovereign,  who,  with  the 
whole  company,  are  said  to  have  kneeled,  and  adjured  him,  in  the  name  of  God,  to 
take  upon  him  the  sacred  office.  His  first  nomination  was  to  the  see  of  Hexham ; 
but  retaining  a  predilection  for  his  former  residence,  he  exchanged  with  Eata,  and 
was  consecrated  at  York  on  the  7th  day  of  April,  being  Easter-day,  in  the  year  685^ 
and  in  the  11th  of  the  reign  of  king  Egfrid,  who  was  present  at  the  oonsecration. 

Before  Cuthberf  s  elevation,  the  normem  churches  received  few  endowments,  but 
several  munificent  grants  were  now  uKule  by  Egbert  to  the  esteemed  bishop  of  Lin- 
disfam.  He  received  a  donation  of  all  the  land  from  St.  Peter's,  sit  York,  round  to 
the  south ;  and  also  the  village  of  Crake,  where  Cuthbert  founded  a  monastry.  This 
prelate  was  also  invested  with  the  dty  of  Caer-leil  (Carlisle),  and  the  lands  for  fifteen 
miles  around  it  Here  the  pious  bishop  resUn'ed  a  decayed  nunnery,  and  instituted 
a  school  for  leaoning.  But  the  value  of  these,  and  the  other  presents  which  Cuthbert 
received,  was  greaify  enhanced  by  the  immunities  annexed  to  them. 

St.  Cuthbert  conceived  the  greatest  horror  at  the  wickedness  which  had  been  ex- 
posed by  the  burning  of  Coldingham  monastry.  He  ordered  women  to  be  kept  at  a 
distance  from  the  church  and  convent  of  Lindisf am,  and  appromiated  a  chapel  in  a 
distant  part  of  the  island,  for  the  reception  of  the  female  sex,  which,  ttom  its  situa- 
tion, .  was  called  Gteenchurch.  From  henceforth  the  women  were  excluded  the 
churches  and  cemeteries  where  St.  Cuthberfs  body  rested;  and  some  miraculous, 
punishments  are  rdated,  which  attended  infringements  on  this  injunction.  In  such 
abhorrence  did  this  stem  saint  hold  the  fair  sex,  that  he  detested  cattle  on  their 
account,  and  would  not  permit  a  cow  to  come  within  sight  of  his  sacred  walls ;  be- 
cause ^'  where  there  is  a  cow  there  must  be  a  woman,  and  where  there  is  a  woman 
there  must  be  mischief."  In  the  cathedral  church  at  Durham,  the  pavement  is  dis- 
tinguished by  a  cross  of  black  marble,  beyond  which  women  were  not  allowed  to 
advance  towards  the  choir.* 

*  In  the  yetfr  13SS,  an  incident  happened  in  the  dty  of  Durham,  which  la  highly  diaracteriaticBl  of  the 
manners  of  that  aapentitioaa  age:— The  queen  of  king  Edward  IIL  having  followed  the  king  to  that  dty, 
was  conducted  to  him  tfanNigh  the  gate  of  the  abbey  to  the  prior^e  lodgii^;a»  where  having  aui^ied,  and  gone 


SOS  laLANDSHHtE. 

Cuthbert  enjoyed  his  change  of  life  and  dignities  but «  r&ry  short  time,  ft>r  witiun 
two  yeArfr,  finding  his  health  declining,  he  rengned  the  see,  and  retumed  to  hi«  cell 
in  Fam,  where  he  expired  two  monois  afterwaids,  in  the  thirty'-ninth  year  of  Ma 
monastic  life,  and  in  the  fifty-third  fimn  tile  foundation  <^  the  see  of  Lindisfam* 
He  direebed,  by  his  last  will,  that  his  jbody  should  be  buried  at  the  east  end  c£  the 
oratory,  in  a  stone  coffin  given  Um  by  the  holy  Tuda,  and  wrapped  up  in  a  sheet 
presented  him  as  a  token  by  Virca,  abbess  of  Tynemouth,  which,  out  of  i«^ermoe  to 
that  holy  woman,  be  had  nevtf  ttsed :  and  lastly,  if  the  island  should  be  inraded  by 
pagans,  he  ordered  the  monks  to  fly  from  them,  and  to  carry  his  bones  away  witli 

St.  Cuthbert  was  remarkable  for  an  unshaken  serenity  of  temper,  and  meekness  of 
demeanom-,  by  which  he  ex^dsed  an  absolute  authority  over  the  rdigious.  In  his 
dress  he  was  neither  nice  nor  sordid,  tand,  in  imitation  of  mm,  no  garments  were  used 
in  the  monastry  of  Lindisfam  of  Tatious  or  cosdy  odours,  bat  were,  for  the  most 
part,  of  the  colour  of  the  wool. 

In  the  liCgend  of  St.  Cuthbert  many  extraoidinary  stories  aie  relsfted  eoncetning 
this  renowned  saint.  His  ftituie  honours  were  foretold  whm  he  wskb  a  chikl,  by  an 
infant  of  three  years  old,  who  gravely  reproved  him-^^'  Fie,  Saint  Cuthbert !  what,  a 
presbyter  and  a  bishop,  and  playing  witfti  boys  ?*'  as  if  he  had  «een  his  mitie  and  cro- 
sier.  When  on  his  way  to  enter  the  abbey  d  IVf  dros,  he  was  opposed  by  the  devil, 
who  was  compelled  to  retreat,  after  a  good  cudgeling.  Being  &iint  and  weary  after 
^uch  violent  exation,  a  h(Hise  discovert  to  hhn  a  lo^  of  bt«M«  In  his  dieaty  soli- 
tude, where  he  remcuned  so  long,  he  had  a  variety  of  combats  with  the  devfl,  the 
print  of  whose  iAcfren  feet,  it  is  said,  is  to  be  seen  in  many  pkoes.  If  any  person, 
out  of  devotion,  came  to  visit  him,  he  retired  to  his  cell,  and  diaooursed  to  t^eam  only 
thmugh  the  wkidow.  Once,  indeed,  to  oblige  a  lady,  the  abbess  of  Ooldingham,  iue 
paid  her  a  visit  at  the  isle  of  Coquet,  where,  ^ng  down  to  the  sea^ghwe,  as  was  has 
custom  every  night,  two  sea-monsters  pteserAed  themselves,  ime^ng  before  faiaa,  as 

tolwd  wMi  hn  ttytal  leKd,  she  waa  Mon^distusbed  by  oae  of  the  nxinks,  who  rmddy  intknated  to  <he  kiog^ 
tbBt  dt  CiAhbert;  fay  tw  tnuM  loved  the  eooapeny  of  faer  an.  The  ^neen  qpen  this  gat  oat  of  bed,  jnd 
JisfiBf  baslAf  dreaeed  henelf,  west  to  theeMde  for  tiie  renaiBiiig  part  of  the  night,  aslaog  fiardcn  for  the 
mine  flhe  had  inadyertendy  been  gnSty  of  iigainst^e  patron  aaint  of  tfaebr  dmrch.  In  1427»  two  serwait 
]|prls  eC  NeiraaMde  were  enjoined  oertain  penanceq,  fbrbaving  |put«nlbe  habits  of  mm,  ftod  uapaa^^^p- 
fMaehed  the  shrine  ^  St.  Cuthbert  at  Dudban. 

*  In  the  Philosophical  TnansactionSy  No.  247  and  260,  and  in  Gibson's  edition  of  4}ie  Britannia^  a  curious 
jewelj  representing  St,  Cuthbert,  is  describe4>  found  near  Athelney,  in  Somersetshira  The  portrait  is  en- 
amelled on  gold,  drawn  sitting  in  an  epscopal  chair,  with  the  following  inscription:-— ''A ELFORD  MEL 
HEX  GEWYRLAN/'—Construed,  Alfredus  Me  JussU  Fabricari.  This  memorial,  observes  Walfis,  iras 
found  in  the  very  place  of  that  glorious  monarch's  retreat  and  deliveitaice  frtqi  the  Dimes,  'fortified  by  Idtn 
in  time  of  war,  and  in  time  of  peace  converted  into  a  monastry.  Dr.  Muagrave  thinks  tins  curious  cimUimn 
an  undeniable  instance  of  the  use  of  images  coming  from  the  heathens  into  the  Christian  church.  Malmea« 
!}ary  i«ls«et,  Ifaat  t$t  Cudi%eit  afipesredto  AFfl-edina  vMoft^at  Alii^^  and  firediGted  his  Aitiare  triumph 
ovcfr  Htfe  itifiM  BiAieto.  So  tdghly  ^as  the  meHMMPy  «f  tiiia  vAit  venerated,  Alt  «i^  leas  thm^ tobaeebea w 
tfaipeU  in  the  trnfltittti  KMm^Siu  mm^  40d»mfA  to  htei , 


LINDISFARN.  809 

to  demand  his  benediction,  which  having  received,  they  returned  to  the  deep.  Two 
crows,  on  bdng  reproved  by  the  saint  fc^  plundering  his  crop  of  ffrain^  retreated  in 
the  utmost  confusion,  and  returned  a  few  days  after,  bringing  wim  them,  as  a  peni^^ 
tentiary  oUaticni^  a  portion  of  swine'#*  grease,  to  anoint  the  sandals  of  the  saint. 
While  preaching  to  a  crowded  audience,  the  alarm  was  given  that  a  cottaoe  was  on 
fire ;  a  number  of  his  auditors  withdrew,  but  aU^  their  efforts  to  extinguish  the  flames 
were  inefiectual.  The  saint,  suspecting  the  illusion,  repaired  to  the  scene  of  action, 
and  ordered  a  few  drops  of  holy  water  to  be  sprinldiBd  on  it,  on  which  the  devil 
sneaked  off,  and  the  fire  disappeared.  Almost  every  one  of  the  forty  chapters  of  the 
life  of  this  saint  contains  a  separate  prodigy.  He  is  even  said  to  have  raised  the 
dead,  and  to  have  converted  water  into  wine  by  the  vnere  touch  of  his  mouth.  The 
monks  of  Lindisfam  (says  the  author  of  the  Legend)  deflowered  all  the  miracles  of 
the  saints  in  holy  writ,  and  bestowed  them  upon  their  St.  Cuthbert. 

On  St.  Cuthberf  s  death,  Wilfrid,  bishop  of  Hexham,  held  the  see  of  Lindisfarn 
for  one  year.  He  Was  succeeded  by  Eadbert,  a  learned  man,  of  ex^npkry  life  and 
piety.  His  tithes  he  uniformly  granted  to  the  poc^.  He  erected  the  cathedral  at 
L^disfkym,  and  covered  it  with  lead*  The  remains  of  this  building  are  still  standing. 
He  also  caused  the  body  of  St.  Cuthb^t  to  be  removed  into  a  magnificent  tomb^ 
prepared  for  it  on  the  right  side  of  the  hi^h  iHwr.  On  this  occasion,  the  authorities 
state,  that  the  body  Was  found  p^ect  and  imcomipted,  as  if  still  living,  the  limbs 
flexible,  and  the  wh<de  appearance  more  like  one  that  slept  than  one  that  was  dead ; 
the  vestments  in  which  tlie  corpse  had  bten  interred  remaining  dean  and  whole.* 

After  having  held  the  see  ten  years,  Eadbert  died  in  the  year  698>  and  was  interred 
in  the  spot  wl^re  St*  Cuthbert's  remains  had  been  at  first  deposited.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  E^hith,  a  monk  of  Lindisfam,  and  one  of  the  most  learned  men  of  his 
time.  He  tzanelated  the  gospels  into  Latin  j  which  work,  after  his  death,  was  highly 
decorated  by  hit  successor,  with  fldbd  and  jewels.  Bilfrid,  an  hermit,  illuminated  it 
with  various  paintteigs  and  rkh  devices ;  and  Adred,  a  priest,  interlined  it  with  a 
fiaxon  version.  This  curiouti  work  is  now  deposited  in  tne  British  Museum,  in  the 
Cottonian  Collection.  Under  this  learned  prelate's  patr<mag&,  tl^  veneraUb  Bede 
wrote  the  hfe  of  St.  Cuthbert.  He  ako  addressed  an  expostulatory  epfetle  to  the 
UMiop,  on  thd  emaeofpel  duties,  and  on  the  dedine  of  religious  disdpline,  which  is 
stfll  ettant  Egfrith,  after  ptesiding  twenty-two  years,  was  succeeded  by  Ethelwdd, 
akkot  of  Melros,  an  intitnate  tdend  of  St.  Cuthbert.  He  caused  a  ponderous  cross  of 
stone  to  be  made  and  eitscted  in  the  ground  adjoining  the  dburch,  wnich  was  inscribed 
his  nami0  and  other  memorials*    The  socket,  or  foot^tone,f  in  which  it  was 


*  St.  Cuthberf  8  ghrinfe  Had  the  ptiviiege  of  sanctuary^  where  fbglttTes  were  safe  fer  S7  d^^a*.  This  reaphe 
allowed  criminals  a  time  for  making  restitution ;  for  under  the  feudal  laws  they  would  have  suffered  imrne* 
djile  pttiil^  akid  puiiishmento :  it  was  the  piocesa  by  which  the  rigour  of  common  law  was  moderated;  and, 
wliett  kept  in  due  vestraint,  was  q£  great  benefit  to  mankind:  but^  by  an  mormeus  extension  which  took 
^kc^  it  puedas^d  iniiBHo  misehieft  to  the  eonunanity  and  to  the  state. 

f  Now  called  the  Petting  Stone*  Whenever  a  marriage  is  solemnized  at  the  church,  after  the  ceremony,  the 
bride  ia  toatop  ufoa  it,  sod  if  she  cannet  stride  to  the  end  thereof,  it  h  said  the  marriage  will  prove  unfortunate* 

VOL,  I,  4  I 


810  ISLAKDSHIUE. 

mortised,  still  lies  a  few  paces  to  the  east  of  the  ruined  church.  It  was  held  in  such 
veneration,  that,  after  being  broken  by  the  Danes,  in  their  first  descent  on  this  island^ 
the  parts  were  put  together  by  skilful  workmen,  with  lead  and  cement.  It  was  car- 
ried, with  the  remains  of  St.  Cuthbert,  wherever  the  flying  monks  wandered  with 
their  holy  charge,  and  at  last  was  placed  in  the  cemetry  of  Durham  cathedral. 

Ethelwold's  episcopacy  was  famed  for  the  abdication  of  king  Ceolwulph,  who  quit- 
ted the  throne  to  take  upon  him  the  monastic  habit  at  Lindisfam.  He  procured  an 
improvement  in  the  living  of  the  monks,  gaining  the  use  of  ale  and  wine  instead  of 
water  and  milk,  the  beverage  prescribed  by  Aidan.  In  this  retreat  he  spent  the  last 
twenty-two  years  of  his  life.  He  endowed  the  church  with  many  valuable  grants, 
amongst  which  were  the  towns  of  Brainshaugh,  Warkworth,  Woodchester,  Whit- 
tingham,  Edlingham,  and  Eglingham.  On  his  death  h^  acquired  the  title  of  saint 
His  body,  some  years  after  sepulture,  was  translated  to  Norham,  and  Ax>m  thenoe  his 
head  was  removed  to  the  cathedral  church  in  Durham. 

Ethelwold  died  in  the  year  740,  and  was  succeeded  in  the  bishopric  by  Cynewolf. 
His  episcopacy  was  attended  with  innumerable  troubles :  kins  Egbert  accused  him 
of  being  accessary  to  the  death  of  CMa,  a  person  of  the  roysu  line,  who  had  taken 
refuge  m  the  church  of  St.  Cuthbert.  Some  authors  say,  that  his  refusing  to  give 
up  tne  assassin  gave  the  suspicion  of  his  being  privy  to  the  crime.  The  bishop  was 
imprisoned  in  the  city  of  Bambrough,  where  he  remained  in  dose  durance  for  a  con- 
siderable time.  After  his  restoration,  being  exhausted  with  age  and  affliction,  he 
resigned  the  see,  and  died  A.  D.  783,  havincc  spent  the  latter  &ys  of  his  life  in  the 
hermitage  of  FaAi.  ♦  S  F-  J 

Higbald  succeeded  to  the  episcopacy.  In  the  year  798,  while  he  presided  in  Lin- 
disfam, the  inhabitants  of  Northumbria  were  alarmed  by  the  appearance  of  a  Danish 
armament  near  the  coast.  The  barbarians  were  permitted  to  land  without  opposition; 
The  plunder  of  the  churches  exceeded  their  most  sanguine  expectations ;  aiid  th^ 
route  was  marked  by  the  mangled  carcases  of  the  nims,  the  monks,  and  the  priests, 
whom  they  had  massacred.  But  historians  have  scarcely  condescended  to  notice  the 
misfortunes  of  other  churches :  their  attention  has  been  absorbed  by  the  fate  of  Lin- 
disfam. That  venerable  pile,  once  honoured  by  the  residence  of  the  apostle  of 
Northumbria,  and  sanctified  by  the  remains  of  St.  Cuthbert,  became  the  ^rey  of  the 
barbstrians.  Their  impiety  polluted  the  altars,  and  their  rapacity  was  rewarded  by 
its  gold  and  silver  ornaments,  the  oblations  of  gratitude  and  devotion.  The  monies 
endeavoured  by  concealment  to  elude  their  cruelty ;  but  the  greater  number  were 
discovered,  and  were  either  slaughtered  on  the  island,  or  drowned  in  the  sea.  Whai 
this  storm  had  blown  over,  Higbald  and  his  monks  returned,  and  the  zeal  of  all  ranks 
was  eagerly  exerted  in  repairing  the  injuries  sustained  by  the  sacred  edifices.*    He 

*  The  news  of  this  calamity  fille^  all  the  nations  of  the  Saxons  with  shame  and  scmtow.  Lindiston  had 
long  been  to  them  an  object  of  peculiar  respect ;  and  the  Northumbrians  hesitated  not  to  pronounce  it  the 
most  venerable  of  the  British  churches.  Alcuin  received  the  account  at  the  court  of  Charlemagne,  and 
evinced,  by  his  tears,  the  sinceri^  of  his  grief.  But  while  he  lamented  the  present,  his  mind  presaged  fbture 
and  more  lasting  calamities  to  his  country.  Prompted  by  his  fears,  he  wrote  to  the  bishop  of  Lindislkm,  to 
his  brethren  the  clergy  of  York,  and  to  the  monks  of  Weremouth  and  Jarrow.    "  Who,"  he  observes  to  the 


LINDISFARN.  811 

survived  this  calamity  eleven  yea^,  and  W4s  succeeded  by  Egbert,  who  received  con« 
secration  at  By  well  from  the  archbishop  of  York ;  but  neither  the  episcopacy 'of  this 
lHshop»  nor  of  his  successor  Heathwred,  furnish  history  with  any  thing  remarkable.  ^ ' 

E^&id  became  bishop  of  Lindisfam  in  the  year  830.  He  was  a  personage  of  noble 
birth  and  enlarged  mind,  strenuous  in  good  works.  He  greatly  contributed  to  the 
honour  and  opulence  of  the  church  of  St.  Cuthbert.  After  holding  the  see  sixteen 
years,  he  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  Eanbert.  Nothing  memoraUe  is  recorded  of 
this  prelate,  who  died  in  the  year  864.  Earldulf,  the  eighteenth  bishop  of  Lindisfam, 
possessed  the  see  at  the  era  of  the  second  descent  of  the  Danes.  Intimidated  by  the 
fate  of  their  princes, 'the  Northumbrians  endeavoured,  by  a  timely  submission,  to 
avert  the  arms  of  the  invaders.  But  Halfdene,  the  Danish  chieftain,  had  tasted  the 
fruits  of  sacrilege ;  after  an  uncertain  delay  of  eight  years,  he  crossed  the  Tyne  with 
a  stroi^  division  of  the  army,  and  levellea  to  the  ground  every  church  in  the  king« 
dom  of  Bemicia.  The  abbey  of  Tynemouth  first  attracted  his  rapacity.  From  its 
smoking  ruins  he  directed  his  march  towards  the  island  of  Lindisfam.  The  monas* 
try  had  risen  from  its  ashes,  and  was  again  peopled  with  a  numerous  colony  of  monks. 
By  the  approach  of  Halfdene,  they  were  plunged  into  the  deepest  consternation  and 
perplexity.  The  &te  of  thdr  predecessors  warned  them  to  retire  before  the  arrival 
of  tne  barbarians :  piety  forbade  them  to  abandon  to  insult  the  body  of  St  Cuthbert« 
From  this  distressing  dilemma  they  were  relieved  by  the  recollection  of  an  aged 
monk,  who  reminded  them  of  the  wish  expressed  by  the  saint  at  his  death,  that  if  liis 
children  should  be  obliged  to  quit  the  island,  his  bones  might  accompany  their  exile. 
The  shrine  which  contained  his  body,  with  ihe  remains  of  the  other  bishops  of  Lin- 
disfam, was  instantly  removed  from  the  altar,  and  the  most  virtuous  among  the 
dergy  were  selected  to  bear  it  from  the  monastrv  to  a  place  of  security,  v  With  tears 
the  monks  bade  a  last  adieu  to  the  walls  in  which  they  nad  devoted  themselves  to  the 
monastic  profession :  the  loftiest  of  the  Northumbrian  mountains  screened  them  from 
the  pursmt  of  the  infidels,  and  the  people  crowded  for  protection  to  the  remains  of 
their  patron.*  The  abbey  was  pillaged,  and  ^en  to  the  flames.  The  wanderings  of 
the  holy  refugees  are  not  distinctly  related.  Deterred  by  a  storm  from  their  purpose 
of  flying  into  Ireland,  they  travelled  from  place  to  place,  until  they  found  a  secure 
and  hospitable  retreat,  in  the  abbey  of  Craike. 

Guthred  being  seated  on  the  throne  of  Northumberland,  under  the  auspices  of 
Alfred,  the  sovereigns,  as  a  joint  act,  granted,  that  wherever  St.  Cuthbert's  remains 
should  rest,  there  should  be  an  inviolable  sanctuary ;  and  that  the  possessions  of  St. 
Cuthbert  and  his  church,  as  well  such  as  were  at  that  time,  or  theretofore,  granted,  as 

last,  "  must  not  tremble,  when  he  considers  the  misfortune  which  has  befallen  the  church  of  St.  Cuthbert? 
Let  the  fate  of  others  be  a  warning  to  you.  You  also  inhabit  the  sea-coast;  you  are  equally  exposed  to  the 
fhry  of  the  barbarians/'    The  event  verified  his  foresight. 

*  The  catalogue  of  holy  remains  which  Symeon  says  were  translated  from  Lindisfam  with  the  body  of  St. 
Cathbort,  ia  not  unworthy  observation :— The  bead  of  the  holy  martyr  St  Oswald;  part  of  the  bones  of  St 
Aidan,  who  founded  the  monastvy,  the  rest  beiiig  carried  away  by  Coleman  into  Scotland;  the  bones  of 
Eadbert,  Eadfrid,  and  Ethelwold.  To  theae^  from  Leland's  Collect  we  must  add,  the  remains  ci  EaU,  Ced. 
wulph^  and  Oildianldua,  an  anchorite* 


SIS  ISLAKDSHIRE. 

those  which  might  thereafter  be  acquired  by  purchase  or  otherwise,  should  be  for 
ever  freed  and  discharged  from  all  customs  and  services,  and  should  be  held  and  en-» 
joved  by  the  church,  with  all  such  sovereign  iurisdiction  and  power  as  the  demesne 
of  the  crown  was  held ;  and  this  was  confirmea  by  the  acclamations  of  the  assenting 
people,  assembled  on  this  solemn  occasion ;  and  became  an  ordinance  establi^ied  tor 
ever.*    This  was  the  origin  of  the  Jura  regalia  which  dignifies  the  palatine  cf  Durtiam: 

After  the  desertion  and  destruction  of  the  monastry  and  church  at  Lindisfiam, 
a  cell  of  Benedictine  monks  was  established  there,  whidi  was  subordinate  to  the 
priory  of  Durham.  The  annual  revenues  were  valued  at  £48, 18*.  llrf.  by  Dugdale, 
and  £60,  5*.  by  Speed.  Twenty-sixth  king  Henry  VIII.  in  the  88d  year  of  the 
same  reign,  the  possessions  were  granted  to  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Durham. 

When  peace  was  restored,  Chester  on  the  Street  was  sdected  as  the  seat  of  the 
bishopric,  bein^  less  exposed  than  the  island  to  the  dangers  of  predatory  or  maritime 
invasion.  Whilst  settled  there,  Eardulf,  A,  D.  889,  annexed  thereto  the  vacant 
l»shopric  of  Hexham.  This  bishop  continued  the  remainder  of  his  episcopacy  at 
Chester  in  peace,  and  died  in  the  year  900,  having  be^i  bishop  46  years. 

In  995,  the  Danes  again  afflicting  the  clergy,  who  had  been  settled  at  Chester  for 
near  a  century,  they  took  up  the  holy  relics,  and  fled  with  them  to  Kipon  in  York* 
shire,  where  remaining  till  the  ravagers  again  quitted  the  country,  and  presuming  it 
a  proper  season  for  their  return  to  Chester,  on  their  way,  by  a  miraculous  power,  they 
were  stayed  at  Wardelaw,  a  hill  near  the  sea^coast,  within  about  eight  miles  of  Dur<* 
ham,  wnere,  in  a  vision,  Eadmerus,  one  of  their  pious  attendants,  had  a  revelation, 
that  at  Dunhdmus  the  sacred  relics  should  rest  for  ever:  a  dtuation  fortified  by 
nature,  bein^  a  lofty  eminence,  surrounded  by  the  rirer  Wear,  overgrown  with  a 
thick  entangled  grove,  in  the  centre  of  which  was  an  open,  thou^  concealed  plain  of 
cultivated  land,  which  offered  its  sequestered  bosom  for  their  religious  repose. 

The  remains  of  St  Cuthbert  rested  here  till  the  year  1069>  wbm  the  Nortbum^ 

*  The  togendary  tales  of  St  Cuthberfs  ikiimdeft  during  hk  liflb-time^  matt  ghre  place  to  than  aftar  Ua 
deatfa.--«Kiiig  Alfred^  for  the  firal  ah  yeara,  waa  greatly  diamsaad  by  ib»  Dunh  invaaioDfl:  he  vae  at  laat 
reduced  to  the  neeeaaity  of  aealdng  hia  aafbty  Ibr  •  oenaideraUe  tine  in  an  obaeim  and  iiiaccesaiUe  reOreat. 
among  the  marshea  of  Someraetahire.  Having  there  ooUected  a  few  dwaen  troopa^  he  iaaued  out  onezpeGtedljir 
#n  the  eaeaiy,  and  obtained  a  glorie«a  Ttotory,  Gutham^  ene  of  the  Damah  dieftaiaa  who  waa  taken  pri« 
aener*  wm  peieueded  by  Alfred  to  enbrace  the  Chrialian  religion,  and  hia  example  iafluenoed  hia  adhereuta  ; 
after  whidi  be  waa  nmed  by  Alfred  to  the  Uuraneof  the  Eaat  Angles,  aa  a  dependent  prince,  under  the  Saxmi 
BMmarohy.  Whilst  Alfred  endured  gx^t  distress  in  his  retreait,  he  was  comforted  by  a  visiom  of  St  Ciithbert| 
who  promised  him  the  success  he  afterwards  experienced :  firom  hence  AlfVed  was  inspired  with  great  vene« 
ration  for  hks.  The  body  of  Danes  whidi  had  aettled  in  Northumberland  having  lost  their  chieftain  Haldani 
xonained  some  time  without  a  leader*  Eadred,  the  abbot  of  Lindisfam,  who»  together  with  his  bishop,  waa 
still  flying  from  one  retreat  to  another  with  their  sacred  charge,  assured  the  bishop  and  the  whole  army  of 
Danes  and  English,  that  the  saint  had  appeared  to  him  in  a  vision,  and  expressed  his  command  to  them  to 
redeem  fVom  slavery  Ontiired  the  son  of  Hanfiknvrt;,  a  fovttk  sold  by  «he  Donea  to  a  widow  at  Whitdngham, 
and  make  him  their  hing.  Ttke  ^junction  was  reeei^  wfth  enthiwiaatic  reverence,  and  psoady  cbayedi 
Outhred  was  crowned  at  Yorft,  and  ruled  over  li^e  southern  departxneats  of  the  Kotthumbiian  kingdoni^ 
8oon  after  his  accession,  Outhred,  hi  gratitti^e  to  die  saint,  ga^  all  itk  cotinCty  betwecss  Tyne  and  1W  to 
the  biabopric,  then  settled  at  Chester  i  and  kbig  Alfi«d,  firom  a  like  prim^j^,  canflrsMd  the  donalieii* 


LINDISFARN.  818 

brians,  with  other  northern  powers,  rebelling  against  the  Norman  king  William,  he 
entered  the  city  of  Durham,  and  laid  it  waste  with  fire  and  sword ;  the  church  being 
miraculously  preserved  by  the  springing  up  of  an  eastern  breeze.  Such  was  the  hor- 
rid devastation  made  on  this  occasion,  that  the  whole  territories  of  York  and  Durham 
are  said  to  have  lain  waste  and  uncultivated  for  nine  years.  The  ecclesiastics,  hearing 
of.  his  horrid  approach  from  York,  fled  from  the  enraged  sword  of  the  Conqueror, 
and  sought  the  island  of  Lindisfam  as  their  refuge.  Thejr  halted  successively  at 
Jarrow,  Bedlington,  and  Ellihgham,  and  on  the  foiulh  evenmg  reached  in  safety  the 
isle  of  Lindisfam.  Simon  says,  that  at  the  time  of  their  arrival  opposite  Lindisfam, 
it  was  high  flood ;  but  the  waves  opened,  and  afforded  them  a  miraculous  passage 
across.     The  saint's  bones  rested  a  very  short  time,  for  on  the  re-establisment  of 

?eace,  on  the  8th  of  April,  1070,  the  sacred  remains  were  restored  to  the  church  of 
)urham,  where  they  have  since  rested. 

Here  it  may  neither  be  irrelevant  nor  uninteresting  to  glance  at  the  monastic  pro- 
fession in  Northumbria  before  the  era  of  the  Danish  invasion.  Monachism  has  long 
been  a  favourite  object  of  attack,  and  the  distorted  portrait  which  was  originally 
drawn  by  the  pencil  of  animosity,  is  still  admired  as  a  correct  and  faithful  likeness. 
But  in  tnis  age  of  free  enquiry,  truth  is  the  favourite  pursuit,  and  there  prevails  a 
general  disposition  to  hear  botn  sides. 

After  the  Scottish  monks  had  retired  from  Lindisfam,  the  celebrated  St.  Wilfrid 
used  all  his  influence  to  propagate  the  Benedictine  order  through  the  kingdom  of 
Northumbria,  and  thousands  submitted  to  that  discipline.  This  institute  was  less 
austere  than  that  of  the  Scottish  Cenobites ;  yet  every  moment  was  diligently  em- 
ployed. Six  hours  were  allotted  to  sleep.  Soon  after  midnight  the  mouKS  arose  to 
chaunt  the  noctumal  service ;  during  the  day  they  were  summoned  seven  times  to 
the  church,  to  perform  the  other  parts  of  the  canonical  office ;  seven  hours  were  em^ 
ployed  in  manual  labour,  two  in  study,  and  the  small  remainder  was  devoted  to  the 
necessary  refection  of  the  body.  Their  diet  was  simple,  but  sufficient :  twelve,  per- 
haps eignteen,  ounces  of  bread,  a  hemina  of  wine,  and  two  dishes  of  vegetables,  com- 
posed flieir  daily  allowance.  The  flesh  of  quadrupeds  was  strictly  prohibited ;  but 
the  rigour  of  the  law  was  relaxed  in  favour  of  the  children,  the  aged,  and  the  infirm. 
To  the  colour,  the  form,  and  the  quality  of  their  dress,  Benedict  was  indifferent,  and 
only  recommended  that  it  should  be  adapted  to  the  climate,  and  similar  to  that  of  the 
labouring  poor.  Each  monk  slept  in  a  separate  bed ;  but  all  lay  in  their  habits,  that 
they  might  be  ready  to  repair,  at  the  first  summons,  to  the  church.  If  they  consented 
to  accept  the  donations  of  their  friends,  their  riches  were  not  devoted  to  the  enoou-* 
ragement  of  idleness,  or  the  gratification  of  sensuality :  but  by  their  liberality,  foreign 
artists  were  invited  to  instruct  the  ignorance  of  their  countrylnen ;  paintings  and 
statues  were  purchased  for  the  decoration  of  their  churches,  and  iheur  library  was 
enriched  with  the  choicest  volumes  of  profane  and  sacred  literature.  While  the  mcr 
chanic  trades  thus  flourished  under  the  patronage  of  the  richer  ecclesiastics,  the  more 
important  profession  of  agriculture  acquired  a  due  share  of  their  attention.  The 
estates  of  the  lay  proprietors  were  cultivated  by  the  compulsoiv  labours  of  their 
theowas  or  slaves  :  but  in  every  monastry  numbers  of  the  brotherhood  were  devoted 
to  the  occupation  of  husbandry ;  and  the  superior  cultivation  of  their  farms  quickly 

VOL,  I,— ( 14 )  4  K 


814  ISLANDSHIRE. 

demonstrated  the  difference  between  the  industry  of  those  who  worked  through  mo- 
tives of  duty,  and  of  those  whose  only  object  was  to  escape  the  lash  of  the  surveyor. 
Within  the  precincts  of  each  monastry  stood  an  edifice,  distinguished  by  the  Greek 
name  of  Xenodochium,  in  which  a  certain  number  of  paupers  received  their  daily 
support,  and  which  was  gratuitously  opened  to  every  traveller  who  solicited  rehef. 

Such  appears  to  have  been  the  character  and  the  manners  of  the  monks  of  Lindis-* 
fam,  and  tne  other  Northumbrian  monastries.  But  they  gradually  declined  from  the 
institute  of  Benedict,  and  the  regulations  enforced  by  £ata;  and  this  departure  was 
justified  by  the  prospect  of  greater  advantage.  The  pursuit  of  learning  began  to  be 
numbered  among  the  duties  of  the  cloister ;  and  the  drudgery  of  manual  labour  was 
exchanged  for  the  more  honourable  occupation  of  study.  Monastries  were  now  en- 
dowed with  extensive  estates,  adequate  to  the  support  of  their  inhabitants ;  and  their 
revenues  were  constantly  augmented  by  the  liberality  of  their  admirers.  Yet  the 
profession  of  poverty  was  not  resigned.  By  the  aid  of  an  ingenious  distinction,  it 
was  discovereo,  that  it  might  still  subsist  in  the  bosom  of  riches ;  and  that  each  indi- 
vidual mi^ht  be  destitute  of  property,  though  the  wealth  of  the  community  was  equal 
to  that  of  its  most  opulent  neighbours. 

The  estates  of  the  monks,  l3ce  those  of  the  clergy,  were  liberated  from  all  secular 
services ;  and  the  hope  of  participating  in  so  valuable  a  privilege,  gave  occasion  to  a 
singular  spedes  of  fraud,  which  cast  a  stain  on  the  reputation  of  the  order.  We  learn 
from  Bede,  that  in  the  reign  of  Alfred,  king  of  Northumberland,  certain  noblemen 
had  expressed  an  ardent  desire  to  consecrate  their  property  to  the  service  of  rehgion. 
By  the  influence  of  friends  and  presents,  the  consent  of  the  sovereign  was  obtained ; 
and  the  ecclesiastical  privileges  were  confirmed  to  them  by  ample  charters,  subscribed 
with  the  signatures  of  the  King,  the  bishops,  and  the  principal  thanes.  But  their 
secret  motives  were  betrayed  by  the  sequel  of  their  conduct ;  and  the  advantages,  not 
the  duties  of  the  profession,  proved  to  be  the  object  of  their  pursuit.  They  quitted 
not  the  habits  nor  the  pleasures  of  a  secular  life,  but  were  content  to  assume  the  title 
of  abbots,  and  to  collect  on  some  part  of  their  domain  a  society  of  profligate  and 
apostate  monks.  The  wife  also  was  proud  to  copy  the  examj^le  of  her  nusband,  and 
her  vanity  was  flattered  with  the  power  of  legislating  for  a  sisterhood  of  females,  as 
ignorant  and  dissipated  as  herself.  So  universal  was  the  abuse,  that  the  venerable 
Bede  ventured  to  express  a  doubt,  whether  in  a  few  years  there  would  remain  a  sol- 
dier to  draw  the  sword  against  an  invading  enemy.  That  respectable  priest,  in  the 
dose  of  his  ecclesiastical  history  dedicated  to  king  Ceolwuli,  hints,  in  respectful 
terms,  his  opinion  of  these  nominal  monks ;  but,  in  his  letter  to  archbishop  Egbert, 
he  assumes  a  bolder  tone,  and,  in  the  language  of  zeal  and  detestation,  insists  on  the 
necessity  of  putting  a  speedy  period  to  so  infamous  a  practice.  But  the  secular  ab- 
bots were  numerous  and  powerful,  and  existed  in  the  other  kingdoms  no  less  than  in 
NorthumlMia.  It  was  in  vain  that  Bede  denounced  them  to  his  metropolitan,  and 
that  the  synod  of  Cloveshoe  attributed  their  origin  to  avarice  and  tj'^ranny:  they 
survived  the  censures  of  the  monk,  and  the  condemnation  of  the  synod ;  their  monas- 
tries were  inhabited  by  their  descendants ;  and  for  their  extirpation  the  Saxon  church 
was  indebted  to  the  devastations  of  the  pagan  Danes  in  the  succeeding  century.  The 
monks  were  very  numerous.    We  cannot  ascertain  the  number  wmch  belonged  to 


LINDISPARN.  815 

Lindisfam;  but  at  Weremouth  and  Jarrow  they  amounted  to  six  hundred.  Of 
these  the  greater  part  were  employed  in  agriculture  and  the  arts»  and  but  few  were 
permitted  to  study  the  sciences,  or  aspure  to  holy  orders.* 

Bede  calls  Lindis£am  a  semi4slana»  being,  as  he  justly  observes^  twice  an  island 
and  twice  continent  in  one  day ;  for,  at  the  flowing  of  the  tide,  it  is  encompassed  by 
water ;  and,  at  the  ebb,  there  is  an  ahnost  dry  passage,  both  for  horses  and  carriages, 
to  and  from  the  main  land ;  from  which,  if  measured  in  a  straight  line,  it  is  distant 
about  two  miles  eastward ;  but  on  account  of  some  quicksands,  passengers  are  obliged 
to  make  so  many  detours,  that  the  length  of  the  w^  is  nearly  doubled.  The  water 
over  these  flats,  at  spring  tides,  is  only  seven  feet.  The  island  measures  from  east  to 
west  about  two  miles  and  a  quarter ;  and  its  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  is  scarcely 
a  mile  and  a  half^  At  the  north-west  part  there  nms  out  a  spit  of  land,  of  about  a 
mile  in  length.  This  isle  contains  about  1000  acres,  the  half  of  which,  situated  to  the 
north,  is  deemed  incapable  of  improvement,  being  sand  hiUs,  aflfording  Utde  vegetation, 
but  bent :  this  part,  as  a  rabbit  warren,  affords  a  considerable  revenue  to  the  proprietor. 
Such  parts  as  are  exposed  to  the  violence  of  the  tempests  from  the  north-east,  are 
subject  to  be  covered  with  floods  of  sand,  which  is  frequently  swept  by  the  winds  to 
a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore.  The  land  chiefly  consists  of  one  continued 
plain,  inclining  to  the  south-west,  which  was  occupied  as  a  stinted  common ;  but  by 
an  enclosure,  efiected  in  I79SI9  the  value  is  prodigiously  increased.  There  is  a  lake  of 
about  seven  acres  extent  upon  this  interesting  isle.  The  ground  on  which  the  village 
stands  rises  swiftly  from  tKe  shore :  at  the  southern  point  is  a  rock  of  a  conical  &gv^ 
and  almost  perpendicular ;  in  height,  near  60  feet,  having  on  its  lofty  crown  a  small 
fortress  or  castle,  which  makes  at  once  a  grotesque  and  formidable  appearance.  There 
are  four  caves,  or  coves,  as  they  are  called,  which  lie  north-north-'east  from  the  village* 
The  largest  is.  upwards  of  50  feet  long.  The  entrance  is  just  large  enough  to  admit 
a  man.     The  rock,  above  this,  rises  to  the  height  of  40  feet. 

This  island  contains  100  houses ;  and  there  are  seven  inns  or  public  houses  in  the 
village,  some  of  them  very  convenient  and  respectable.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are 
fishermen.  The  shore  is,  in  many  parts,  excellent  for  bathing,  and  the  situatioa 
is  at  once  healthy  and  romantic :  it  has,  therefore,  of  late  years,  become  a  place  ci. 
great  resort,  and  is  much  praised  for  the  beauties  that  grace  its  solemn  walks.  The 
new  houses,  which  have  been  recently  erected,  give  to  the  whole  place  a  neat  and 
comfortable  appearance.  The  north  and  east  coasts  of  the  is^d  are  formed  of  per- 
pendicular rocKs;  the  other  sides  sink  by  gradual  declinations  towards  the  sands. 
The  fishermen,  in  the  winter  season,  are  employed  in  catching  lobsters,  which  are 
sent  to  the  London  market.  Great  quantities  of  cod,  ling,  and  haddocks  are  also 
taken,  with  which  the  coast  abounds. 

On  the  north  part  of  the  island  there  is  abundance  of  limestone,  and  a  small 
seam  of  coal,  never  much  worked,  on  account  of  the  water,  and  other  difficulties. 
There  is  plenty  of  iron  ore  in  a  bed  of  black  shiver  or  slate;  among  which 
are    the    Entrochi,    or    St.    Cuthbert's   beads,    as   the    superstitious    have   called 

*  The  state  of  religion  in  Northumberland^  during  this  period^  if  ably  illustrated  in  Lingard's  Antiquities 
of  the  Anglo-Sax(»i  Church. 


816  ISLANDSHIRE. 

them  *    The  Cairon  oompany  formerly  procured  iron  ore  here ;  but  their  men  were 
obliged  to  work  at  the  ebbing  of  the  tide,  as  Uie  ore  lies  within  high  water  mark. 

Great  remains  of  the  old  abbey  are  standing ;  nothing  but  confused  ruins  shew 
where  the  monastic  buildings  stood,  the  walls  having  been  robbed  for  building  parts 
of  the  village,  and  for  the  erection  of  the  present  parochial  church.  Some  authors 
have  alleged,  that  the  monastry  was  built  by  St.  Cuthbert,  of  a  humble  model,  with- 
out ornament,  and  inclosed  with  a  high  wall,  in  order  that  outward  objects  might  not 
draw  the  attention  of  the  recluse  from  divine  contemplations.  The  ancient  church 
was  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  the  body  and  chancel  of  which  are  yet  standing,  the  other 
parts  greatly  ruined,  and  in  some  places  level  with  the  ground.  The  order  of  build- 
mg  in  this  structure  is  rude  and  heavy,  and  most  of  it  in  the  worst  mode  of  the  early 
Saxon  architecture.  Mr.  Grose  says,  it  probablv  was  the  work  of  different  periods ; 
great  part  of  it  seems  very  ancient,  the  arches  being  circular,  and  the  columns  very- 
massy,  and  much  like  those  at  Durham,  but  richer.  On  the  north  and  south  walls 
there  are  pointed  arches,  which  prove  that  that  part  of  it,  at  least,  was  built  since  the 
reign  of  Henry  II.  It  is  evident  that  the  square  tower,  or  steeple,  has  been  erected 
long  after  the  first  building  of  the  church,  as  well  as  several  other  parts.  The  pillars, 
on  which  the  arches  rise  in  the  centre  of  the  cross,  are  clustered  and  plain  capitalled, 
each  forming  a  comer  of  the  great  tower ;  those  arches  are  of  few  members.  There 
are  side  aisles,  the  colunms  of  which  are  heavy,  and  the  arches  semicircular.  Where 
the  arches  are  pointed,  the  stones  are  little  injured  by  time ;  when  the  arches  are  se- 
midrculw,  the  stones  are  much  decayed.  The  windows  are  narrow,  and  ornamented 
with  a  comer  pilaster,  and  a  moulding  of  few  members :  the  walls  are  very  thick, 
and  every  part  displays  a  gloomy  and  sombre  appearance.  The  south  wall  of  the 
middle  tower  is  standhig,  and  is  about  50  feet  in  height ;  and  one  comer  tower  at  the 
west  end  of  the  church  remains  perfect.  "  These  ruins,"  says  Hutchinson,  in  his 
View  of  Northumberland^  "  retain  at  this  day  one  most  sinmilar  beauty :  the  tower 
has  not  formed  a  lantern,  as  in  most  cathedrals ;  but  from  the  angles  arches  sprang, 
crossing  each  other  diagonally,  to  form  a  canopy  roof.  One  of  those  arches  yet  re- 
mains, unloaded  with  any  superstructure,  supported  by  the  south-east  and  north-west 
oomer  piUars,  and  ornamented  with  the  dancette  or  zig-zag  moulding,  much  used  in 
old  Saxon  architecture,  extending  a  fine  bow  over  the  chasm  and  heap  of  ruins  occa- 
sioned by  the  failing  in  of  the  aisles.  The  whole  structure  is  composed  of  a  soft  red 
freestone,  which  yidds  much  to  time,  and  renders  the  aspect  of  the  building  dark  and 

^  It  seems  that  the  saint  still  retains  ^n  afFisction  fbr  his  old  residence  at  Lindisfam,  as^  according  to  the 
▼ulgar  belief,  he  often  comes  thither  in  the  nighty  and  sitting  on  a  certain  rock^  uses  another  as  his  anvil^  on 
l¥hich  he  forges  bis  beads.     This  tradition  is  interwoven  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  with  the  fable  of  his  Marmion. 

"  But  fain  St  Hilda's  nuns  would  leam^  A  deaden'd  clang-^i— a  huge  dim  form 

If,  on  a  rock,  by  Lindisfam,  Seen  but^  and  hea|d,  when  gathering  stonxi 
St  Cuthbert  sits,  and  toils  to  frame  And  night  were  closing  round. 

The  sea-bom  beads  that  bear  his  name  (  But  this,  as  tale  of  idle  fame> 

Such  tales  had  Whitby's  fishers  told.  The  nun^  of  Lindisfam  disdaim.'' 
And  said  they  might  his  shape  behold  Canio  IL  Stanza  16. 

And  hear  his  anvil  sound ; 


LINDISFARN.  317 

mdanclKdy."  By  whom  this  edifice  was  built  does  not  appear.  Various  fragments 
of  the  offices  of  the  monastry,  constructed  with  reddish  stone,  are  still  standing,  and 
foundations  of  buildings  are  scattered  over  a  dose  of  near  four  acres:  but  its  chief 
remains  are  the  church,  the  main  walls  of  which,  on  the  north  and  south  sides,  are 
standing,  though  much  out  of  the  perpendicular.  Indeed,  they  incline  outwards  so 
considerably,  as  to  make  the  horizontal  distance  between  them  at  the  top  exceed,  by 
near  two  feet,  that  at  the  bottom*  The  west  end  is  likewise  pretty  entire ;  but  the 
east  is  almost  iev^lled  with  the  ground.  This  building  consists  of  a  body  and  two 
side  aisles,  into  which  it  is  divided  by  a  double  row  of  very  solid  columns,  whose 
shafts  are  richly  ornamented :  each  row  has  five  columns,  of  four  different  construe;, 
tions,  and  two  pilasters  in  the  walls  at  the  east  and  west  ends.  The  shafts  of  these 
columns  are  about  twelve  feet  high ;  thdr  diameters  about  five ;  their  pedestals  and 
capitals  are  plain ;  they  support  circular  arches,  having  over  each  arch  two  ranges  of 
windows;  the  lowest,  Isrg^  and  in  pairs,  separated  only  by  a  column;  the  upper, 
small  and  sinde.  In  the  north  and  south  walls  there  are  some  pointed  arches.  The 
length  of  the  Duilding  is  about  138  fpejt,  the  breadth  of  the  body  eighteen  feet,  and 
that  of  the  two  side  aisles  about  nine  feet  each.  It  seems  doubtful  whether  there 
ever  was  a  transept.  The  tower  of  the  idwi^ek  stands  in  the  centre,  and  was  supported 
by  two  large  arches  standing  diagonally :  one  of  them  is  now  remaining.  This  arch 
is  ornamented  in  the  Saxon  style,  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  the  stranger's  hall  at 
Canterbury.  A  few  paces  to  tne  east  of  the  church  there  lies  a  stone  with  a  square 
cavity  cut  into  it,  apparently  once  the  pedestal  for  a  cross :  a  small  distance  west  of 
these  remains  stands  the  present  parish  church,  which  is  a  neat  small  structure,  and, 
as  has  been  already  observed,  built  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  monastry. 

The  curious  traveller  has  frequently  lamented  the  rapid  decay  of  this  melandioly 
and  interesting  fabric ;  but  fortunately  it  has  now  been  placed  under  the  care  of  a 

fentleman '  capable  of  appreciating  the  value  of  such  ahcient  and  sublime  ruins, 
I.  C.  Selby,  esq.  of  Swansfield,  near  Alnwick,  the  present  proprietor  of  the  island, 
has,  at  a  considerable  expense,  removed  immense  quantities  6f  rubbish  and  ruini^ 
under  which  much  of  the  cathedral  was  buried.     Buttresses  have  been  built  to  sup. 

?ort  the  old  waHs,  wliich  have  in  some  places  been  carefully  and  tastefully  repaired, 
*he  great  western  door  has  also  been  opened :  it  is  finely  ornamented  in  the  Saxon 
Style,  with  three  columns  on  each  side. 

The  rock  on  which  the  castle  stands  is  inaccessible,  save  only  by  a  winding  nass, 
cut  on  the  southern  side ;  the  yarrow  limits  of  the  crown  of  the  rock  will  not  aamit 
of  m^ny  works,  l^hje  who^e  ^strength  consisting  of  a  single  battery  on  the  south-east 
point,  mounted  with  seven  or  eirfit  guns,  which  command  the  approach  to  the  island 
from  the  sea,  but  would  be  of  little  consequence  against  a  ship  of  any  considerable 
force :  the  rest  of  the  summit  is  taken  up  with  a  house  for  the  governor  tod  garrison^i 
the  walls  of  which  stand  on  the  very  brink  of  the  precipice.  A  fortress  in  this  situa* 
tion,  before  the  use  of  gunpowder,  would  be  almost  impregnable,  where  the  super- 
structures  would  be  above  the  reach  of  any  engine,  ,and  the  rqcks  too  hijgh  to  be  scaled. 
This  castle  is  a  dependency  on  the  garrison  of  Berwick,  and  a  small  detachment  of 
troops  are  constantly  stationed  here  during  times  of  war.  The  guns  were  remove^ 
in  1819,  by  order  of  the  government. 

VOL,  I.  4  li 


818  ISLANDSHIIIE. 

The  antiquity  of  this  castle  is  not  known ;  hut  from  the  inviting  strength  of  thcf 
situation,  writers  conjecture  that  it  was  used  shortly  after  the  erection  of  the  ahbey, 
as  a  place  of  refuge,  where  the  religious  retreated  when  disturbed  in  their  holy  resi- 
dence. Grose  observes,  that  as  Camden  mentions  it,  we  at  least  know  it  must  have 
existed  in  his  time.  He  suggests,  as  the  cause  of  the  obscurity  and  uncertainty  of 
its  history,  that  probably  it  nas  been  the  scene  of  but  few  remarkable  events.  The 
first  mention  of  it,  indeed,  occurs  in  the  history  of  the  civil  war  in  the  time  of 
Charles  I.  when  it  appears  to  have  been  seized  for  the  parliament ;  and,  according  to 
Rushworth,  in  an  oraer  of  the  house  of  commons.  May  7,  1646,  for  sending  forces 
thither,  this  reason  is  assigned,  •*  it  being  of  such  consequence  to  the  northern  parts 
of  the  kingdom."  This  consequence,  however,  arose,  perhaps,  more  from  the  conve- 
nience of  its  harbour  than  from  the  strength  of  the  castle.* 

Holy  Island  does  not  appear  ever  to  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  royalists ;  for 
it  continued  in  the  possession  of  the  parliamentarians,  anno  1648,  when  it  was,  as  may 
be  seen  in  Rushworth,  relieved  with  necessaries  bv  colonel  Fenwick's  horse  and  some 
dragoons.  From  that  time  nothing  memorable  seems  to  have  been  transacted  here, 
till  the  rebellion  in  the  year  1715,  mien  the  seizure  of  this  castle  was  planned,  and 
performed  by  two  men  only :  in  which  exploit  such  policy  and  courage  were  exerted, 
as  would  have  secured  them  the  greatest  honour  hacl  the  cause  they  espoused  been 
successfuLf 

*  In  the  year  l647>  according  to  that  learned  and  ingenious  antiquary  Rushforth^  one  captain  Batton  was 
governor  of  the  island  for  the  parliament,  and  to  whom  Sir  Marmaduke  Langdale,  after  the  taking  of  Ber- 
wick, wrote  the  following  letter,  but  without  success. 

"Sir, 
''  You  have  the  good  opinion  of  the  counties  to  be  a  sober  discreet  man  amongst  them,  which  emboldeneth 
me,  a  stranger  to  yon>  to  withdraw  (that  which  every  man  in  his  duty  to  God  and  the  king  ought  to  perform) 
the  veil  of  those  horrid  designs  plotted  by  some^  that  men  may  run  and  read  the  misery  and  thraldom  they 
intend  upon  the  whole  nation.  It  is  believed  by  many  that  know  you,  that  you  are  sensible  of  the  imprison* 
ment  of  his  majesty  and  the  violation  of  all  our  laws.  If  you  please  to  consider  the  ends  being  changed, 
perhaps^  for  which  you  first  engaged^  and  comply  with  the  king^s  interest,  by  keeping  the  fort  now  in  pos* 
session  for  the  king's  use^  I  will  engage  myself  to  see  all  the  arrears  due  to  yourself  and  the  soldiers  duly 
paid,  and  to  procure  his  m^esty's  fiivour  for  the  future;  and  that  I  only  may  receive  some  satisfaction  fiom 
you^  that  this  motion  is  as  really  accepted  as  intended,  by 

*^  Your  humble  servant, 

''MARMADUKE  LANGDALE." 
"  Bemnck,  April  30,  l674. 

This  letter,  together  with  the  captain's  refusal,  were  transmitted  to  the  house  of  commons,  for  which  they 
voted  their  thanks  to  captain  Batton,  and  that  he  should  be  continued  governor  of  the  place. 

t  The  following  particulars  of  this  transaction  are  related  by  Grose,  to  whom  they  were  communicated  by 
•  gentleman  whose  fiither  was  an  ey&-witness  to  the  facts,  and  well  knew  both  the  parties : — "  One  Launcelot 
Errington,  a,  man  of  an  ancient  and  respectable  family  in  Northumberland,  and  of  a  bold  and  enterprising 
spirit,  entered  into  a  conspiracy  for  seiaing  this  castle  for  the  Pretender ;  in  which  it  is  said  he  was  promised 
iwsistanoe,  not  only  by  Mr.  Foster,  the  rebel  general  then  in  arms,  but  also  by  the  masters  of  several  French 


FAUN  ISLANDS.  319 

The  prospect  from  this  island  is  beautiful :  to  the  northward  you  command  a  view 
of  the  town  of  Berwick,  over  an  arm  of  the  sea  about  seven  miles  in  breadth :  at 
nearly  the  same  distance  you  view  Bambrough  castle,  on  a  bold  promontory,  towards 
the  south :  on  the  one  hand  you  have  a  view  of  the  open  sea,  sometimes  rough  and 
gloomy,  and  at  other  times  calm  and  resplendent,  and  scattered  over  with  vessels ; 
and  on  the  other  hand  a  narrow  channel,  by  which  the  land  is  insulated,  about  two 
miles  in  width ;  the  distant  shore  exhibits  a  beautiful  hanmig  landscape  of  cultivated 
country,  graced  with  a  multitude  of  cottages,  villages,  and  woodlands. 

Faiin  Islands. — ^The  passage  to  the  Fam  Islands  seems  rather  dangerous,  and  as 
they  possess  few  curiosities  to  tempt  a  traveller  to  sea,  they  are  but  seldom  visited. 
The  largest  of  the  whole  duster  is  the  House  Island,  which  the  holy  St.  Cuthbert 
made  his  residence.  Mr.  Pennant  visited  them  all,  and  his  industry  has  left  little  to 
be  added  to  the  interesting  description  which  he  has  given. 

''  The  Fam  Islands  form  two  groups  of  little  islands  and  rocks,  to  the  number  of 
seventeen,  but  at  low  water  the  points  of  others  appear  above  the  surface :  they  all 
are  distinguished  by  particular  names.  The  nearest  isle  to  the  shore  is  that  called 
the  House  Island,  which  lies  exactly  one  mile  sixty-eight  chains  from  the  coast :  the 

privateers.  At  this  time  the  garrison  consisted  of  a  seijeant^  a  corpoi^l,  and  ten  or  twelve  men  only.  In 
order  to  put  this  scheme  in  execution,  being  well  known  in  that  country,  he  went  to  the  castle,  and  after 
some  discourse  with  the  seijeant,  invited  him  and  the  rest  of  the  men  who  were  not  immediately  on  duty  to 
partake  of  a  treat  on  board  of  the  ship  of  which  he  was  master,  then  lying  in  the  harbour ;  this  being  unsus- 
pectingly accepted  of,  he  so  well  plied  his  guests  with  brandy  that  they  were  soon  incapable  of  any  opposi- 
tion. These  men  being  thus  secured,  he  made  some  pretence  forgoing  on  shore;  and  with  Mark  Errington, 
his  nephew,  returning  again  to  the  castle,  they  knocked  down  the  centinel,  surprised  and  turned  out  an  old 
gunner,  the  corporal,  and  two  other  soldiers,  being  the  remainder  of  the  garrison,  and  shutting  the  gates, 
hoisted  the  Pretender's  colours  as  a  signal  of  their  success,  anxiously  expecting  the  promised  succours.  N9 
reinforcement  coming,  but,  on  the  contrary,  a  party  of  the  king's  troops  arriving  from  Berwick,  they  were 
obliged  to  retreat  over  the  walls  of  the  castle  among  the  rocks,  hoping  to  conceal  themselves  under  the  sea- 
weeds till  it  was  dark,  and  then  by  swimming  to  the  main  land  to  make  their  escape :  but  the  tide  rising, 
they  were  obliged  to  swim,  when  the  soldiers  firing  at  Launcelot  as  he  was  climbing  up  a  rock  wounded  him. 
in  the  thigh.  Thus  disabled,  he  and  his  nephew  were  taken,  and  conveyed  to  Berwick  gaol,  where  they 
continued  till  his  wound  was  cured.  During  this  time  he  had  digged  a  burrow  quite  under  the  foundation 
of  the  prison,  depositing  the  earth  taken  out  in  an  old  oven.  Through  this  burrow  he  and  his  nephew,  with 
divers  other  prisoners,  escaped;  but  most  a£  the  latter  were  soon  after  taken.  The  two  Erringtons,  how- 
ever, had  the  good  fortune  to  make  their  way  to  the  Tweed  side,  where  they  found  the  custom-house  boat ; 
they  rowed  themselves  over,  and  dEterwards  turned  it  adrift.  From  thence  they  pursued  their  journey  to 
Bambrough  castle,  near  which  they  were  concealed  nine  days  in  a  pei^stack ;  a  relation  who  resided  in  the 
castle  supplying  them  with  provision.  At  length,  travelling  in  the  night  by  secret  paths,  they  reached 
Gateshead  house,  near  Newcastle,  where  they  were  secreted  till  they  secured  a  passage  from  Sunderland  to 
France.  A  reward  of  500/.  was  now  offered  to  any  one  who  would  apprehend  them,  notwithstanding  which 
Launcelot  was  so  daring  as  soon  after  to  come  to  England,  and  even  to  visit  some  of  his  friends  in  Newgate. 
After  the  suppression  of  the  rebellion,  when  every  thing  was  quiet,  he  and  his  nephew  took  the  benefit  of  the 
general  pardon,  and  returned  to  Newcastle,  wherehe  died  idxmt  the  year  1746,  as  it  is  said,  of  grief  at  the 
victory  of  >Culloden." 


S20  ISLANDSHIRE. 

most  distant  is  about  seven  or  eigbt  miles.  They  are  rented  for  £  16  per  annum : 
thdr  produce  is  kelp,  some  few  feathers,  and  a  few  seals,  which  the  tenant  watches 
and  shoots,  for  the  sake  of  the  oil  and  sldns.  Some  of  them  yield  a  little  grass,  and 
serve  to  feed  a  cow  or  two,  which  the  pec^le  are  desperate  enough  to  transport  over 
in  their  little  boats. 

**  Visited  these  islands  in  a  coble,  a  safe  but  seemingly  hazardous  species  of  boat, 
long,  narrow,  and  flat-bottomed,  which  is  capable  of  gomg  through  a  high  sea,  danc- 
ing like  a  cork  on  the  summits  of  the  waves.  Touched  at  the  rock  called  M(^^ 
whitened  with  the  dun^  of  corvorants,  which  almost  covered  it;  their  nests  were 
large,  made  of  tang,  and  excessively  fcBtid.  Rowed  next  to  the  Pinnacles^  aQ  island 
in  the  farthest  group,  so  called  from  the  vast  columnar  rocks  at  the  south  aid,  even 
at  their  sides,  and  flat  at  their  tops,  and  entirely  covered  with  guillemots  and  shags : 
the  fowl^s  pass  from  one  to  the  other  of  these  columns  by  means  of  a  narrow  bowd, 
which  they  place  from  top  to  top,  forming  a  narrow  bridge,  over  such  a  horrid  gap, 
that  the  very  sight  of  it  strikes  one  with  terror. 

**  Lianded  at  a  small  island,  where  we  found  the  female  eider  ducks,  at  that  time 
ratting :  the  upper  part  of  the  nest  was  formed  of  the  down  which  tliey  puU  off  their 
breasts,  in  which  the  eggs  were  surrounded,  and  warmly  bedded :  in  some  were  three, 
in  others  five  eggs,  of  a  large  size,  and  pale  olive  colour,  as  smooth  and  glossy  as  if 
varnished  over.  The  nests  are  built  over  the  beach,  among  the  loose  pebbles,  not  far* 
ftom  the  water.  The  dudes  sit  verv  dose,  nor  will  they  rise  till  you  almost  tread  on 
tiiem.  The  drakes  separate  themselves  from  the  females  during  the  breeding  season. 
We  robbed  a  few  of  their  nests  of  the  down, — after  carefully  separating  it  nom  the 
tang,  found  that  the  down  of  one  nest  weighed  only  three  quarters  of  an  ounce,  but 
was  so  elastic  as  to  fiS  the  crown  of  the  largest  hat.  The  people  of  this  country  call 
these  St.  Cuthbert's  ducks,  from  the  saint  of  the  islands.** 

[Heje  Mr.  Pennant  enumerates  the  different  spedes  of  fowls  which  fire<5^uent  these 
cxHggy  isles ;  but  they  have  been  already  noticed  in  a  preceding  part  of  this  work.] 
,  •*  The  last  isle  I  visited,"  continued  this  accurate  writer,  "  was  the  House  Island^ 
ttie  sequestered  spot  where  St.  Cuthbert  passed  the  two  last  years  of  his  life.  Here 
was  afterwards  established  a  priory  of  Benedictines  for  six  or  eight  monks,  subordi- 
nate  to  Durham.  A  square  tower,  the  remains  of  a  church,  and  some  other  build- 
iiLgs,  are  to  be  seen  there  still ;  and  a  stone  coffin,  which,  it  is  apprehended,  was  that 
oT  St  Cuthbert  At  the  north  eaad  of  this  isle  is  a  deep  chasm,  from  the  top  to  the 
bottom  of  the  rock,  communicating  to  the  sea,  through  which,  in  tempestuous  wea- 
ther, the  water  is  forced  with  vast  violence  and  noise,  and  forms  a  fine  Jet  d*eau  of 
axty  feet  hi^ :  it  is  called  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  opposite  coast,  the  ChumJ" 

In  Bede's  Life  of  St  Cuthbart,  we  are  .told«  that  the  saint's  cell  was  not  the  only 
erection  upon  the  island,  for  there  was  a  larger  house  near  the  landing  place,  where 
the  brethren  who  came  to  visit  him  lodf^dd.  After  the  death  of  St.  Cutubert,  Ethd- 
wold,  who  took  on  him  the  religious  habit  at  Rinon,  resorted  to  this  hermitage,  aod 
possessed  it  twelve  yems,  ending  his  life  there.  Fdgild  succeeded  Ethdwold,  and  in 
the  time  of  that  hermit,  Eadfrid,  Inshop  of  Iindis£nn,  restored  from  its  foundatlcms 
the  oratory  of  St,  Cuthbert,  which  had  gone  to  ruin.  Bede  relates,  that  Fel^d  wa« 
more  than  seventy  years  old  when  he  wrote  the  Life  of  St  Cuthbert,    Besides  tiie 


FAKN  ISLANDS.  821 

persons  mentioned  by  Bede,  tibere  were  other  devotees  who  chose  Fam  for  the  place 
of  their  retreat  St  Bartholomew  was  one,  as  appears  from  a  manuscript  History  of 
his  Life  in  the  Bodlean  library,  who  obtained  leave  of  Lawrence,  prior  of  Durham, 
to  go  to  Fam,  where  he  found  one  Elwyn  in  possesion  of  the  desirable  residence, 
and  whose  religion  was  not  sufficiently  temperea  with  charity  to  induce  him  to  wel- 
come the  stranger.  Bartholomew  wrote  in  this  retreat  his  Fam  Meditations,  now 
preserved  in  the  Durham  library.  Thomas,  prior  of  Durham,  retired  to  Fam  in  the 
years  1162  and  116S ;  he  had  engaged  in  a  controversy  with  that  arrogant  prelate^ 
Hugh,  bishop  of  Durham,  touching  certain  liberties  which  the  m<mks  of  that  diurdi 
prompted  him  to  maintain ;  and  who  afterwards  deserting  him,  induced  Hugh  to 
procure  his  deposition. 

On  the  death  of  Richard,  bishop  of  Durham,  simamed  the  Poor,  the  monks  elected 
their  prior,  Thomas  de  Melsonby,  to  the  see.  The  king  opposed  this  election, 
esteeming  him  disaffected  to  his  government,  because  he  had  been  prior  of  Colding^ 
ham,  and  sworn  fealty  to  the  king  of  Scotland ;  and  there  was  singular  danger  m 
having  a  bishop  of  Durham  under  any  attachment  to  the  king  of  ScoUand,  as  in  right 
of  his  see  he  would  possess  places  of  great  strength  and  importance.  These  objections 
not  being  esteened  of  sufficient  importance  to  the  monks,  for  them  to  renounce  their 
right  of  election,  or  fearing  new  innovations  from  r^al  power,  they  appealed  to  the 
see  of  Rome ;  but  the  messengers  chained  with  this  matter  died  in  then:  passage,  and 
Melsonby  being  intercepted  as  he  attemjrted  to  leave  the  kingdom,  he  resigned  his 
title  to  the  episcopacy  on  the  8th  of  April,  A.  D.  1240,  having  contested  his  daim 
three  years.  In  the  year  1244,  the  king  advancing  towards  Newcastle  with  his  army, 
the  prior  was  strode  with  new  arorehensions  of  danger,  -and  consequently  resigned 
his  office  of  prior,  and  retired  to  Fam  Island,  where  the  hermit  Bartholomew  then 
was  in  occupation  of  the  sacred  cell  of  St.  Cuthbert«  Here  the  nrior  spent  the  re- 
mainder of  nis  life  in  devotion  and  austerities.  He  was  buriea  in  the  cathedral 
diurch  of  Durham,  among  the  bishops ;  and  many  mirades  were  said  to  be  wrought 
at  his  tomb. 

Alexander  II.  king  of  Scotland,  confirmed,  by  deed  to  the  monk  Henry,  and  his 
successors  in  Fam  Isbnd,  eight  shillings  sterling,  in  free  alms,  to  be  received  annually 
out  of  the  &rm  of  his  miU  at  Berwick,  instead  of  half  a  chalder  of  com,  granted  to 
him  by  the  charter  of  king  William,  In  commemoration  of  these  exampfes  of  reli- 
gious severity,  a  priory  was  founded  here,  according  to  Ldand,  for  six  Benedictine 
monks,  subdrchnate  to  Durham,  with  a  revenue  of  thirteen  marks  from  the  corpora^ 
tion  of  Newcastle.*    The  endowment  at  th^  dissolution  was  estimated  at  £12, 17'.  Sd, 

**  The  revenue  of  this  priory  is  thus  mentioned  :— That  our  lord  Edward^  lately  king  of  England,  had  in 
his  life,  by  word  of  mouth,  granted  to  the  monks  dwelling  in  the  island  of  Famland,  near  Bamburg,  which 
island  is  a  cell  to  the  priory  of  Durham,  ten  quarters  of  com,  and  two  tuns  of  wine,  to  be  received  every  year 
by  the  hands  of  the  mayor  and  baififls  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  as  an  alms,  &c.  for  ever.  Oor  present  lord 
the  king  being  willing  to  fulfil  and  continue  his  (father's)  will  in  part,  hath  granted  to  the  aforesaid  monks, 
as  a  compensadon  of  the  aforesaid  com  and  wine,  tiiirteeti  merka  and  ten  shillings,  to  be  receiyed  every  year 
al  the  finuit  of  St.  Michael,  by  the  famda,  he,  Ihim  the  fee  of  the  said  town,  namely*«-five  maiica  to€  every 
tun  of  wine,  and  five  shillings  for  every  quarter  of  com,  to  be  paid,  &c.  for  everd-^Bovnte,  p.  SOQ. 

VOL.  I.  4  M 


sn  ISLANDSHIRE. 

King  Henry  VIII.  in  the  SSd  year  of  his  reign,  granted  it  to  the  dean  and  chapter  of 
Duraam.  The  remains  of  these  edifices  are  very  ragged  and  confused,  and  shew 
little  other  than  marks  of  severity  and  inconvenience,  notwithstanding  the  happy 
taste  which  is  denoted  in  the  scites  of  most  of  the  religious  houses  of  the  same  date. 
A  part  of  a  square  tower  is  standing,  which  was  built  by  one  Castle,  prior  of  Dur- 
ham, in  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century :  part  of  the  priory  is  abo  remaining, 
near  which  is  shewn  a  stone  coffin,  intended  to  have  indosed  the  hallowed  remains  of 
St  Cuthbert* 

These  erections  are  on  the  best  part  of  the  island ;  a  little  lawn  skirts  the  edifices, 
surrounded  with  rugged  rocks,  from  whence  issues  a  spring  of  fresh  water.  The 
monastic  writers  attribute  to  the  sanctity  of  Cuthbert  the  production  of  fresh  water 
on  this  islet,  also  the  miraculous  growth  of  herbage  and  ffram,  and  the  expulsion  of  a 
race  of  demons,  who,  previous  to  the  saint's  arrival,  had  held  the  isle  in  fee  simple. 
Since  the  departure  or  the  religious,  this  island  has  returned  almost  to  its  pristine 
state :  its  whole  extent  is  only  twelve  acres,  the  chief  part  of  which  is  sand  and  rock. 
A  scanty  herbage  takes  place  indeed  in  some  spots,  especially  on  the  little  lawn ;  but 
there  is  neither  tree  nor  shrub.  The  shore  opposite  to  Bambrough  is  an  abrupt  pre- 
dpitous  rock,  consisting  of  basaltic  columns,  combined  together  in  the  most  grotesque 
forms.  To  the  north  of  the  rocks,  a  fine  sandy  bay  affords  a  safe  landing  place  near 
the  house  and  chapel ;  and  there  are  about  six  acres  of  coarse  herbage  to  the  south 
and  east.  Here  the  rolling  of  the  hollow  sea  sends  forth  a  horria  howling :  the 
north-east  winds  blow  fiercely,  and  every  indemency  of  weather  known  to  die 
climate  beats  on  these  inhospitable  shores,  which  are  tremendous  from  fi^uent 
shipwrecks.  The  Fam  Islands  seem,  indeed,  to  be  the  abode  of  storms  and  tempests ; 
ana  from  their  gloomy  cliffs  are  frequ^itly  to  be  witnessed  scenes  the  most  suolime 
and  terrific.  The  fishermen  in  these  parts  are  distinguished  for  their  skill  and  intre- 
pidity, and  in  their  light  skiffs  fearlessly  dart  over  the  lofty  waves. 

On  the  north-east  point  of  the  largest  of  the  Fam  Islands  is  a  light-house,  whidi  is 
extremely  serviceable.  Several  rocky  islands,  called  the  Staples,  or  Scarre-head,  lie 
about  a  mile  and  a  half,  in  nearly  a  north-east  direction,  from  the  Fam  Isles,  where  a 
light  is  also  placed  to  warn  vessels  to  avoid  the  dangerous  rocks.  Ships  may  pass 
between  these  islands,  but  there  lies  in  the  middle  of  the  channel  a  duster  of  rocks 
called  Oakscar. 

Between  the  Fam  Islands  and  the  Scarres  is  a  road  for  ships  called  Scane^toad^ 
which  is  sheltered  from  all  winds  between  the  south-east  and  north-west ;  while  the 
Fam  Islands  and  the  Staples  contribute  to  its  security.  There  is  from  five  to  eight 
fathoms  in  this  road.  Ships  also  may  ride  safely  in  Budle  Bay,  between  Bambrough 
castle  and  Holy  Island.  In  this  bay  tiiie  water  is  from  three  to  seven  fathoms  deep, 
and  the  bottom  a  fine  sand. 

Proceeding  northward  towards  Holy  Island,  there  appears  a  very  good  harbomr 
between  its  south  side  and  the  main  land,  where  coasting  vessels  may  ride  in  safely 

*  There  was  a  church  built  there,  for  the  women  to  hear  mass,  pray,  and  receive  the  aacramentTafterwaids 
demoliahed ;  and  another  built  for  the  aame  vae  by  Hugh  Pudsey,  biahop  of  Durham,  called  the  Galileei— - 
Randdts  MamuenpU. 


TWEEDMOUTH,  8S3 

in  all  winds.  About  a  mile  from  the  shore  of  the  south-east  point  of  the  island  is  a 
cra^  called  the  Plough^  on  the  north  side  of  which  is  a  cluster  of  rocks ;  and  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  farther  to  the  eastward  is  a  rocky  precipice,  called  Gk>ald-«tone,  dose  to 
which  the  water  is  five  fathoms  deep.  From  Lindisfam,  or  Holy  Island,  to  the 
Tweed,  the  coast  is  open.  Berwick  road  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  south-east 
of  the  bar,  where  ships  come  to  anchor  in  five  fitthoms  water ;  the  bottom  a  fine  sand. 
Up  the  Tweed,  on  the  south  side  of  Berwick,  lies 

TWEEDMOUTH. 

It  is  a  large  irregular  built  village.*  Several  houses  have,  of  late  years,  been  erected, 
which  has  much  improved  its  appearance.  According  to  Dr.  Fvdler,  it  is  not  so 
healthy  as  Berwick,  which  he  ascribi&s  to  its  ^reat  exposure  to  the  northerly  and 
north-east  winds,  together  with  the  want  of  a  stnct  police,  by  which  the  streets,  lanes, 
and  fronts  of  the  houses,  are  not  kept  sufficiently  dry  and^dean.  Here  are  two  or 
three  yards  for  building  ships  and  boats ;  a  ropery  of  long  standing ;  a  foundery,  a 
soapery,  several  master  cartwrights,  a  skinnery,  a  tannery,  and  a  manufactory  for 
bricks  and  tiles ;  also  a  brewery,  on  a  pretty  large  scale :  but  the  salmon  fishery  gives 
employment  to  the  greatest  number  of  the  poor.f* 

The  chapel  is  a  neat  Gothic  building,  with  a  gallery  at  the  west  end.  .The 
old  chapel  was  pulled  down,  and,  in  1780,  rebuut  in  its  present  form.      It  is 

{)leasantly  situated  on  the  side  of  the  Tweed.  It  is  dedicated  to  St  Bartho- 
omew,  and  belongs  to  the  vicarage  of  Holy  Island.  The  living  is  a  perpetual 
curacy,  in  the  gift  of  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Durham.  At  the  west  end  of  the  vil* 
lage  is  a  neat  presbyterian  meeting  house,  which  was  first  op^ied  for  puUic  worship 
in  the  year  1788.    There  are  no  free  schools  in  this  place ;  but  the  inhabitants  are 

*  In  the  year  1203,  William  the  Lion,  king  of  Scodand,  laboured  tinder  k  tediouB  illness :  king  John,  tak« 
ing  advantage  of  the  circumstance,  began  to  fortify  a  castle  at  Tweedmouth,  in  order  to  reduce  Berwidc,  the 
Gibralter  of  Scotland.  But  William  twice  interrupted  the  work,  and  rased  it  from  the  foundations,  having 
taken  prnoneM,  put  to  fii^it,  or  killed  the  workmen,  and  those  who  guarded  them.  These  proceedings  gave 
occasion  to  a  personal  conference  between  the  rival  princes  at  Norham.  In  1277^  Robert  de  Insula,  bishop 
of  Durham,  domplained  to  Edward  I.  of  certain  encroachments  which  he  pretended  were  made  by  William 
IIL  king  of  Scotland,  in  those  parts  where  the  territory  of  the  bishopric  adjoined  to  Scotland.  The  politic 
Edward  seemed  incensed  at  this  proceeding,  and  the  Scotch  king,  in  order  to  terminate  the  controversy,  pro* 
posed  to  refer  the  matter  to  proper  judges :  accordingly,  Edward  appointed  the  bishop  of 'Norwich  and  three 
other  delegates,  who  met  at  Tweedmouth,  and  were  assisted  by  the  bishop  of  Durham  and  sheriff  of  New- 
castle, and  several  barons,  who  were  summoned  to  attend  by  the  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  llut  the  dispute 
was  not  settled,  as  the  Scotch  commissioners  refused,  to  acknowledge  the  unjust  authority  claimed  by  the 
English  deputies.  Here  also  the  barons,  knights,  and  tenants  made  their  proffer  of  service,  hefwe  Sir  Bar- 
tholomew Baldesmere,  lieutenant  to  the  constable  of  England,  and  Sir  Nicholas  de  Segrave,  marischal  of  the 
king's  host  An  ancient  hospital,  dedicated  to  St  Bartholomew,  stood  here,  th?  mastership  of  which  was  in 
the  disposal  of  the  bishop  of  Durham. 

t  There  are  not  many  proprietors  of  Tweedmouth  mentioned  in  ancient  records.  The  several  finnilies  of 
Manners,  Cheswyk,  Heron^  and  Grey,  held  possessions  here  <^tfae  loid  bishop  in  socage.    See  page  893, 


824 


ISLANDSHIRE. 


amply  provided  with  the  means  of  education.*  An  ancient  annual  feast  is  stiU  observen 
here.  It  is  held  on  the  second  Monday  of  July,  old  style.  Every  family  entertain 
their  friends  with  a  dish  of  baked  salmon,  and  the  day  is  spent  with  jollity  and  dancing. 
The  lands  of  the  township  of  Tweedmonth  comprise  1S50  acres,  whidi  are  occupied 
by  a  number  of  tenants.  These  lands  contain  several  springs  of  water,  some  of  which 
are  capable  of  driving  machinery.  Oie  of  theses  situated  a  little  beyond  the  east  of 
the  village,  is  called  St.  Cuthbert's  Well. 

Spittal  is  a  village  included  in  the  township  of  Tweedmouth.  It  is  situated 
about  a  mile  east  from  the  latt^  place,  dose  by  the  sea  (from  which  it  is  defended  on 
the  north  by  the  Carr  rocks),  and  the  mouth  of  the  rivar.  It  consists  of  a  very  wide 
street,  and  a  very  narrow  one.  The  buildings  of  this  populous  village  are  intoieraiUy 
bad,  excepting  a  few  bouses  which  have  been  rec^itly  erected.  It  has  one  presbyte- 
mm  meeting-hottse ;  and  is  diiefly  inhabited  by  pitmen  and  fishermen;  Here  is  a 
large  herring-house  for  curing  red  and  white  herrings.  Spittal  was  long  famed  for 
being  the  rendezvous  of  vagaoonds  and  smugglers ;  but  since  the  adjoining  common 
was  divided,  they  have  lost  thm  kirkihg  place»  which  was  tiie  principal  convenience 
that  attracted  them  to  this  spot 


*  The  Dissenters  in  Ei^Iaad  conoeiviiig  diat  Mr.  BroagbamlB  plan  of  general  education  mroold  injure  their 
religious  interests  and  privileges,  prepared  to  resist  its  adoption.  The  uecessify  of  this  measure  being 
grounded  upon  the  FaErochial  Returns  made  in  ISI9  to  the  Sehot  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons  ap* 
pointed  to  enquire  into  the  edticadon  of  the  poor^  its  opponents  have  r»«eurveyed  many  of  the  counties,  in 
order  to  demonstrate  the  ineofrectness  and  deficiencies  of  the  reports  transmitted  to  parliament.  The 
S^mdajf  Sckoot  Umom  of  Neweastle  upon  Tyne  also  resolved  to  investigate  aaew  the  state  of  education  in 
Northumberland;  a  laborioiie  worh^  whieh  has  been  prosecuted  by  the  secretariesi  Messrs.  Angus^  Falconarj 
and  Wilson,  with  uncommon  spirit  and  success^  The  writer  has  been  fiivoured  with  all  the  answers  received 
to  their  eaquiries^  which,  with  the  Parochial  Returns  formerly  made,  afford  much  valuable  information  on 
tUs  interesting  subject  The  following  digest  of  the  present  state  of  education  in  the  parish  of  Berwick  and 
Ae  duqpeby  «f  Tweedmouth,  was  communicated  by  the  "  Berwick  Sabbath  Evening  School  Union," 


MM 


Number  of  Schools.  ' 


IWuhM  or  Plasea. 


Parish  of  Berwick 
Chapelry  of  Tweedmouth 

Total 


I 


Ccumoti  itfn 
Damft-tthoolflt 


S8 
17 


55 


11 


11 


«k 


TouL 


49 

17 


NWi^ 


66 

■MM 


Kiiml>er  of  Children. 


Cotaitnon  sim 
D«m«.«choolfr 


fioys. 


500 
«5 


amtmmm 

S25 


Girls. 


52B 
918 


846 


OMtuiloiis* 

Schools. 


Boys. 


SOD 


Girls. 


300 


iMMMi* 


8#5 


845 

mmtm 


TouL 


1678 
648 


2816 


In  181^1^  Berwick  oentailled  9018  males  and  females  between  the  ages  c^  five  and  fifteen  years;  and 
Tweedmouth  contained  1188  males  and  females  between  the  same  years.  Thus^  it  appears  that  out  of  8206 
males  and  females^  of  the  ages  when  education  is  usually  received,  S8I6  are  actually  under  some  kind  of 
tailkMi,  Had  tiie  Betunw  inckided  those  only  between  the  ages  of  m.  and  twelve  years,  it  would  psriuqpa 
appear  that  a^arealy  any  ene  in  thees^  pkoea  art  tetatty  uBediicated, 


TWEEDMOUTH.  «2« 

About  half  a  mile  from  Spittal  is  a  very  strong  mineral  spring,  issuing  from  the 
side  of  a  rising  piece  of  moorish  ground :  it  has  been  analyzed,  and  was  found  to  con- 
tain  fixed  ah*,  ufon,  and  a  small  proportion  of  sulphuric  add.  Its  medicinal  virtues 
are  in  high  estimation,  and  are  said  to  be  particularly  beneficial  in  all  those  complaints 
where  chalybeates  and  other  tonics  are  proper  to  be  taken.  It  has  for  many  years 
been  greatly  resorted  to  by  persons  of  various  descriptions,  A^m  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try.  The  opportunity  of  sea-bathing  at  Spittal  is  another  inducement  to  persons  to 
resort  to  the  well ;  but  the  accommodations  which  the  village  can  furnish,  and  the 
attractions  it  can  offer,  are  few  when  compared  with*places  oimore  fashionable  resort. 
From  Spittal  the  lands  to  the  southward  open  for  seyeral  miles  upon  the  view ;  but 
the  variegated  colourings  of  nature  succeedmg  to  cidtivation,  are  lost  in  the  distant 
prospect :  the  beauties  of  the  landscape  lie  in  apparent  confusion,  and  frequently  the 
whole  is  enveloped,  and  totaUv  obscured  by  sea  vapour. 

About  a  mile  south  from  Tweedmouth,  on  Sunnvside-hill,  is  a  coal-hiU  belonging 
to  the  corporation  of  Berwick.  •  The  highest  part  ot  this  hill  commands  a  very  exten- 
sive prospect  of  the  surrounding  coun^,  overlooking  most  of  the  flat  part  of  Ber« 
wickshire,  while  the  towns  of  Berwick  and  Tweedmouth,  the  bridge,  the  river  and 
bay,  combine  to  form  a  most  rich  and  captivating  scene.  This  hill  itself  has  but  a 
bleak  and  sterile  appearance,  and  is  intersected  Dy  roads  in  every  direction.  The 
turnpike  road  on  the  summit  has  lately  been  cut  down  with  great  labour  and  ex- 
pense; and  the  adjoining  land,  which  wtes  once  a  barren  moor,  wiU  shortly  vie  with 
the  richest  and  the  most  enlivening  districts  in  the  north. 

East  Ord  is  a  small  viUage^i  about  one  mile  south-by-west  from  Tweedmouth.  It 
contains  about  forty  dwellings  for  fishermen  and  labourers,  and  is  of  a  rectangular 
form,  inclosing  a  spacious  green,  gently  iricjlining  towards  the  north.*  The  space 
between  It  and  Tweedmouth  consists  of  rich  inclosed  fields,  through  which  there  is  a 
pleasant  foot-road  that  passes  Ord-house.  A  little  to  the  east  of  the  village  stands 
the  neat  mansion  of  William  Grieve,  esq.  Not  far  distant,  and  near  the  ba.nks  of 
the  Tweed,  is  the  remains  of  an  extensive  encampment :  it  is  defended  bv  a  ditch 
and  a  rampart  of  earth ;  towards  the  land  the  entrance  is  defended  by  several  hillocks 
of  earth,  after  the  manner  of  the  ancient  Britons.  A  large  quantity  of  broken  firag* 
ments  of  spears,  armour,  ice.  have  been  found  in  this  place.  West  Ord  stands  on 
the  river  side,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  from  Tweedmouth.  It  belonged  to  the 
heirs  of  the  late  Sir  Walter  Blackett ;  but  is  now  the  property  of  John  Grey,  esq.  of 
MiUfield-hill. 

SoREMERSTON  lies  adjoining  the  sea^coast,  south  from  Tweedmouth.f  There  are 
ftt  present  three  farms  undej*  this  name.    The  north  farm  is  occupied  by  Mr.  PringlQ 

*  This  place  anciently  gave  name  to  the  resident  family.  It  remained  in  poeaesBion  of  the  Ords  nntil  the 
year  14dS»  after  which  period  it  appears  to  have  been  intennixed  with  the  possessions  of  the  Darlingtona  and 
Langtons. 

f  The  village  of  Scremerston  was  in  ruins  in  1 386^'  having  been  laid  waste  by  the  Scots ;  and  since  die 
pinth  year  of  king  Heniy  IV.  it  does  not  appear  to  have  been  noted  in  any  vecords.    The  fortlet  of  Scremer* 

VOL,  I.  4  N 


326  ISLANDSHIRE. 

of  Tweedinoufcli,  the  middle  by  Mr.  Andrew  Scott»  and  the  south  by  Mf .  Tbompion. 
On  the  whole,  tiiis  place  contains  about  fifty  dwelling  houses.  This  fine  estate  was 
the  property  of  the  earl  of  Derw^atwater»  and  now  belbngs  to  Greenwich  HosfitaL 

Cheswick. — ^Proceeding  southward,  and  about  five  miles  from  Tweedmouth,  lies 
Cheswick,  between  the  sea  and  the  great  post-road.*  This  is  a  smaU  village,  oonsist- 
ing  of  about  forty  cottages,  with  we  mansion-house.  It  stands  on  the  summit  of  a 
rising  ground,  and  commands  a  fine  view ;  to  the  south,  of  the  rich  vale  below  it, 
from  i£acrof t  by  Haggerston,  to  Goswiek;  to  the  east,  of  the  eoast  fccmi  Berwick  to 
Bambrough  casde,  and  the  Fam  Islands ;  Hcdy  Island  lying  in  front ;  and  the  Cha- 
vwt  mountains,  mining  their  blue  tinge  with  the  sky,  to  the  south-we»t.  Mr.  Wil-» 
kiia's  residence,  about  150  yards  south  of  the  village,  commands  the  same  ^easing 
prospect. 

GoswicK  lies  upon  a  small  inlet  or  bay  oi  the  sda.f  This  place  edntains  thirteen 
dwelling  houses,  one  of  which  is  a  public  h<»is^  for  the  accimmiodatiou  of  fishens  aad 

man  18  raeationed  in  the  foUowiug  chazactermtic  aneodote  of  Robert  do  Inrali^  whir  was  ouuter  biihop'of  Duw 
ham  in  1274:*— '^  This  bishop  was  once  at  Norham^  and  the  }mnk  of  SoieiiMntian  (a  \Mt  ftrtcesa  tbea 
belenging  to  the  Swinnows)  sent  him  a  present  of  ooimtry  ale.  The  bishop  had  be^i  lon^disased  to  ooeh 
butpdble  beverage;  yet  from  respeet  t»  the  doiior^  and  4o  the  good  report  of  the  liquor,  he  tastsda  cup  of  it 
'  Et  non  svHinens  statain  a  mensa  surgims  ewmUj'-^Se^'  said  he,  '  the  fiirfse  of  custooi :  jrou  all  know  my  on* 
gin,  and  that  neither  from  my  parents  nor  my  country  I  can  derive  any  taste  for  wine;  and  yet  now  my 
country  liquov  is  rendered  utterly  distasteful  to  me.'  To  his  mother  he  gave  a 'train  of  male  and  female  ser- 
vants, and  an  honourable  establishment.  Once;,  when  he  went  to  see  her, '  And  how  fares  my  sweet  mother  ?' 
said  he.  *  Never  worse,'  quoth  she.  '  And  what  ails  thee,  or  troubles  thee  ?  Hast  thou  not  men  and  women 
ipd  attendants  sufficient  ?'  '  Yea,'  quoth  she,  '  and  more  than  enough :  I  say  to  one.  Go,  and  he  runs ;  to 
another.  Come  hither,  fellow,  and  the  varlet  falls  down  on  his  knees ;  and,  in  short,  all  things  go  on  so  un- 
consionably  smooth,  that  my  heart  is  bursting  for  something  to  spite  me,  and  pick  a  quarrel  withal.'  ''"^Gray^ 
9taneSf  cap.  12,  quoted  in  Suriees'  Durham,  vol.  i.  p.  xxxu 

^  This  manor  gave  name  to  a  resident  6unily ;  but  the  villa  being  destroyed  by  die  Soots  about  the  year 
1400,  and  the  family  of  Cheswick  falling  into.iRimale  issue,  the  possesaons  came  into  the  hands  of  other  pro« 
pffietors.  The^fiunilifs  of  Haggerston  and  of  Gray  had  also  possessiiNis  there.  It  now  beloiigs  to>fo«rdif« 
ferent  proprietovs,  vis.  Sir  C.  Hagg^rstvm ;  J.  S.  Donaldson,  esq* ;  Robert  WilUe,  esqv ;.  and  Sir.  Tayhnr,  of 
Fleetham. 

t  This  place  gave  name  to  a  resident  family  in  the  beginning  of  the  fourteenth  century,  when  Cralifridus 
de  Goawick  held  the  manor  of  Qoswick  of  the  lord  bishop  of  Durham,  paying  pro  dlbajtrma,  silver,  outrape, 
and  tvaynlade  rents.  The  fh^t  is  so  called  to  distinguish  it  firom  hlackmail  Waynlade,  as  Mr.  Hutchinson 
informs  us,  was  carriage  for  the  bishop ;  and  outrape  was  the  hue  and  cry  by  bailiflTs  errant,  sent  by  the  she- 
riffs to  ride  the  outbounds,  as  well  for  summoning  to  the  county  or  hundred  court,  as  for  the  pursuit  of 
offenders.  Lands  here  also  paid  southfare,  which  was  a  kind  of  entertainment  made  by  bailiffs  to  ihose  of 
their  hundred  for  profit  Bir^Mver  was  a  fee  doe  to  the  by-law-*men,  or  jurors  of  the  lord's  court  The 
burg-sUver,  which  wa9  likewise  paid  here,  was  a  tax  for  the  maintenance  of  a  fortress,  in  other  places  catted 
the  castle-guard  rent  After  the  Goswick  name  ceased  to  be  mentiunedin  tbexeconk,  the  Bethells  or  B^yUs, 
and  various  other  families,  held  possessions  here» 


AKCROFT.  SS7 

persons  fi^aaitinfp  Holy  Idand  ftota  thcf  nor&«  It  betongs  to  G.  A.  Askew,  esq, 
of  Pallinsburn ;  and  the  farm  is  oceupied  fay  George  Weir,  esq.  Murton  and  Murton 
Square^  where  are  9cane  ooid-pits,  oiid  which  lie  a  little  south  from  East  Ord,  are  the 
only  other  places  worthy  of  remark  in  the  parochial  chapelry  of  Tweedmouth. 

ANCROFT. 

• 

This  is  a  small  village^  consisting  of  a  farm4iou$e  and  a  few  cott^es  for  labour^^s.* 
The  church  is  situated  at  the  east  end  <tf  the  viUage.  .an  aticient  edinoe,  with  a  square 
iower,  uncovered :  in  the  middle  of  the  tower  a  large  ash  tree  grows,  suppc»rt^  on 
an  arch,  wiiere  its  roots  are  sustained  by  the  decaying  of  the  walls :  but  the  venerable 
appearance  of  this  old  edifice  is  highly  injured,  and  the  eye  disgusted,  by  a  covering 
of  red  tiles.  The  repairs  which  it  has  lately  received  in  the  interior  are  more  judi- 
doas,  and  has  a  pleasmg  air  of  cleanness  and  neatness.  It  is  a  chapel  to  the  vicarage 
c^  Holy  Island^  of  which  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Durham  are  patrons.  Ancroft 
seems  to  have  been  formerly  a  large  and  populous  village.  The  roundations  of  the 
old  houses  are  still  visible  in  a  fidd  south-west  of  the  church.  It  is  said  that  a  com- 
pany of  shoe-makers  resided  here  in  the  rei^  of  queen  Anne,  and  were  employed  in 
making  shoes  for  the  army.  It  is  eleven  miles  ntorth-by-east  from  Wooler,  and  about 
fiire  miles  south^by-west  from  Tweedmouth.  Akcroft  Gre£Nsi8  is  about  a  mile 
to  the  north-west  of  this  viUage.  Here  is  a  pretty  extensive  tarewery,  besides  some 
coal-works.     It  is  the  property  of  Adam  Sibbet,  esq. 

Berrington  lies  at  a  little  distance  to  the  soutfaward.f  It  is  a  small  vill^e,  and 
consists  only  of  a  few  cottages.  On  a  fine  elevated  situation,  near  the  village,  li/dward 
Clavering,  esq.  built  a  beautiful  mansion,  which  is  now  in  the  possession  of  John 
Grey,  esq.  of  Kemerston. 

Haggerston,  the  seat  of  Sir  Carnaby  Haggerston,  bart.  lies  a  little  to  the  east  of 
Berrington,  and  near  the  great  north  road.  It  is  shrouded  in  a  fine  grove.  The 
oldest  part  is  a  tower,  to  wnich  two  additions  have  been  made.  On  the  south  front 
is  the  family  arms,  but  no  date.  The  remaining  tower  of  this  ancient  mansion  is 
memorable  for  being  the  place  where  Edward  II.  received  the  homage  of  Thomas, 
earl  of  Lancastw,  for  ibe  earldom  of  Lincoln,  in  1311.    At  a  short  distance  are  the 

*  The  CoIviIb  are  the  mo0fe  andent  poeseaBcnrft  of  land  at  Ancroft  that  are  recorded ;  bnt,  during  the  episco- 
pacy of  bifibop  Bnry^  who  came  to  the  see  in  ldS4«  the  manor  ky  waate^  in  consequence  of  the  incursions  of 
the  enemy.  It  afterwards  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Greys ;  but,  in  1416,  was  forfeited  by  the  rebellion 
of  Sir  Thomas  Grey.  However,  on  the  petition  of  Ralph  Grey,  the  heir,  he  had  restitution  of  the  large 
family  possessions,  which,  in  this  quvter,  included  with  the  manor  of  Ancroft  a  moiety  of  Allerton  and  a 
third  part  of  FeUdngton. 

t  This  was  anciently  the  ntonor  of  Maners,  within  whidi  several  proprietors  held  lands  under  the  inferior 
lord,  by  rendering  a  rose  at  the  feast  of  Pentecost  The  lord  held  the  estate  of  Berrington  by  a  certain  rent 
and  suit  at  the  court  of  Norham,  whic&  #as  a  duty  owed  to  the  lord  paramount  in  his  demesne.  Part  of 
Berrington  is  the  property  of  Henry  Morton,  esq.  of  Kilham. 


I 


S88  ISLANDSHIRE. 

ruins  of  an  old  chapel.    The  gardens  are  bounded  on  the  soutlk  by  a  sluggish  stream 
called  the  Lind.    The  a^oining  lands  are  ridi  and  fertile. 

The  greatest  part  of  Euiggerston  castle  was  burnt  down  in  1618 ;  and,  in  1687,  the 
house  of  Sir  Thomas  Haggerston^  hart  in  Berwick,  of  which  he  w^s  gOTemor,  under- 
went the  same  fate,  when  most  of  t^e  ancient  deeds  and  writings  belonging  to  the 
family  were  destroyed,  so  that  their  pedigree  is  somewhat  defective.  Wotton,  in  his 
Baronetage,  mentions  an  old  ruined  wapel  in  Berwick,  wherein  the  arms  of  Hagga*- 
ston  and  Haselrigg  were  quartered.  It  is  added,  ^  the  family  were  lbrm«4y  posses- 
sors of  a  plac^  cSSdd  Hasdrigg,  which  was  sold  in  the  dvil  waers.  It  is  supposed 
from  hence,  that  the.  builder  of  the  chapel  married  an  heiress  of  Hasehigg's ;  and 
there  is  a  traditimi,  t^hat  it  was  built  with  spoils  which  one  of  the  family  btought 
trom  the  holy  wars.*** 

*  The  Haggrerstons  are  of  great  antiquity  in  Scotland,  and  local  from  Halkerstoir.  WiBiam  «nd  Ricbard 
Haggerston  are  witnesses  to  a  donation  in  II90.  John  de  Haggerston  was  oneof  tiie*Scoli  barons  who  swore 
ftaky.  to  king  Edward^  1S96.  The  first  notice  of  this  famOy  in  the  records  of  the  bishoprie  is  in  13S8,  amee 
which  tfane  they  have  continued  in  possession  of  tiiis  estate.  Sir  Thomas  Haggerston,  the  first  barene^  was 
colonel  of  the  ftmousNcHthuinberlaiid  regiment,  in  the  sendee  of  Charles  I.  and  married  Alioe^  daughter  and 
heiress  of  Henry  Banaster,  esq.  by  whom  he  had  three  sons  and  four  daughters :  1,  John>  aUdn  at  Ormskirk 
fight,  in  Lancashire,  daring  the  civil  wan,  on  the  king^s  side:  2,  Thomas,  successor  to  his  father:  3,  Henry* 
killed  by  a  fall  frhm  his  horse,  at  Lambton  Gate,  in  Durham ;  he  marriod,  and  left  a  daughter  married 
abroad.  The  daughters  were  Ellen,  wife  of  John  Selby,  of  Biddleskm,  Narthumberland,  esq. ;  Ann»  of  Wil« 
liam  Blundell,  of  Crosby,  esq. ;  Margaret,  of  William  Hodshon,  esq. ;  and  Alice,  who  died  unmarried.  Sir 
Thomas  died  at  a  great  age,  having  spent  or  lost  his  wife's  estate  in  opposing  the  parliament  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  eldest  surviving  son, 

n«  Sir  Thomas,  who  married  first  Margaret,  daughter  of  Sir  Francis  Howard^  knt  and  had  nine  sons  and 
a  daughter :  this  lady  died  in  chUdbed.  Of  the  sons,  Thomas,  the  eldest,  wa3  killed  in  Ireland,  in  the  ser* 
vice  of  king  James  H.  unmarried;  2,  William,  of  whom  hereafter;  S,  Henry;  4,  John;  5,  Francis,  who  all 
embraced  religious  lives ;  6,  Edward,  who  married  first,  Mary,  daughter  of  Gerard  Salvin,  esq.  and  secondly^ 
Mrs,  Fitasharbe :  the*  other  sons  died  unmarried.  Sir  Thomas  married,  secondly,  Jane,  daughter  and  heiress 
of  Sir  William  Camaby,  by  whom  he  had  no  issue. '  This  Sir  Thomas  was  governor  of  Berwick  castle,  and 
his  house  there  was  burnt  down,  Feb.  Ipj  1687,  himself,  wife,  and  fkmily,  narrowly  escaping,  William,  his 
eldest  surviving  son,  married  Anne,  daughter  of  Sir  Philip  Constable,  bi^  and  died  before  his  fiither,  leaving 
three  daughters,  one  the  wife  of  ■         Salvin ;  also  a  son, 

HI.  Sir  Camaby,  who  succeeded  his  grandfather,  and  married  Elisabeth  Middleton^  of  Stockhill,  in  York* 
shire,  who  died  in  Dec.  1769;  by  whom  he  had  three  sons;  1,  Thomas;  2,  William  Constable;  and  S, 
Edward,  of  EUlngham,  in  Northumberland,  died  March  17,  1804^  set  71 ;  bIm  diree  daughters,  one  of  whom 
was  the  wife  of  Thomas  Clifton^  of  Sytham,  in  Lancashire,  esq.  Sir  Camaby  died  in  17S6s  and  was  sue* 
ceeded  by  his  eldest  son^ 

IV.  Sir  Thomas,  who  in  1754,  married  Mary,  daughter  of  George  Silvertop,  of  Minsteracres,  in  Nbrthum- 
berland,  esq.  She  died  May  22,  1773.  By  her  he  had  three  sons ;  1,  Carnaby;  2,  Thomas;  9,  Edward  j 
and  two  daughters,  Mary  and  Bridget     Sir  Thomas  died  Nov.  1,  1777^  And  was  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son^ 

V.  Sir  Camaby,  the  present  baronet,  married  Frances,  daughter  of  William,  sou  of  Walter  Smythe,  esq. 
brother  of  Sir  Edwiird  Smythe,  of  Esh,  in  the  county  of  Durham,  bart.  by  whom  he  has  issue  a  daughter^ 
married,  in  Jan.  1805,  to  Sir  Thomas  Stanley,  bart  of  HootQUi  ia  Cheshire.  Sir  Carnaby  is  one  of  the  ai|« 
^ent  and  respectable  Roman  catholic  baronets  of  England* 


KYLOE.  aa9 

BisAL  stands  at  a  stiort  distance  to  the  south  from  Hacgerston,  on  ka  eminence  in 
a  fine  fertile  plain,  within  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  contains  eighteen  dwelling 
houses  for  labourers  in  husbandry.  It  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  being  the  pretended 
residence  of  the  famous  Irish  female  saint,  Begogh.  There  were  Irads  at  Beal  in 
1384,  belonging  ad  camificium^  or  the  hangman's  fee.  This  manor  gave  name  to  a 
resident  family,  which,  falling  into  female  issue,  the  estate  came  into  possession  of 
the  Bullocks.  It  now  belongs  to  P.  J.  Selby,  esq.  of  Twizel-house,  ana  is  occupied 
by  Mr.  Scott  of  Scremerston. 

Fenwick  is  a  small  village  situated  on  the  post-road,  five  miles  and  a  quarter 
north  from  Belford.  It  belongs  to  Sir  Camaby  Haggerston^  and  consists  of  two 
farm-holds,  with  cottages  for  labourers. 

Fenham  lies  close  upon  the  sea-shore^^hen  the  tide  is  up.  It  consists  of  a  farm- 
stead and  a  few  cottages,  and  belongs  to  JollifiT  Tufihell,  esq.  in  Essex.  Fenham 
Flats  are  the  sands  extending  from  Fenham  and  Beal  to  Holy  Island,  and  are  about 
three  miles  in  breadth.  Upon  entering  the  sands  from  Beal,  there  is  a  place  called 
^'  The  Low,"  which  has  often  proved  fatal  to  those  tmacquainted  with  the  sands. 

Ross  and  Elswick  are  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Islandshire,  and  only 
a  part  of  the  latter  lies  in  the  palatine.  They  consist  of  two  large  farms  and  a  few 
cottages,  bdonging  to  the  earl  of  TankerviUe,  In  Ross  is  an  extensive  rabbit-^warren, 
stretoiing  along  tne  coast,  in  a  kind  of  promontory,  to  Holy  Island  harbour.  On 
the  sands  which  stretch  fix)m  Elswick  are  very  large  cockles.  Known  by  the  name  of 
Budle  cockles :  there  was  also  an  oyster-scarp  here,  famed  amongst  epicures ;  but  it 
has  been  several  years  ago  exhausted. 

KYLOE 

Is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Copsay-hiU,  near  the  post-road,  five  miles  north-west  by  north 
from  Belford.  The  church  stands  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  about  200  yards  north- 
west of  the  village.  It  was  rebuilt,  in  1792,  of  hewn  stone,  and  covered  with  blue 
slates,  in  a  neat  and  plain  style.  The  edifice  is  seventy-five  feet  in  front,  lighted  by 
four  sash-windows.  The  view  from  the  church-yard  is  extensive  and  interesting. 
This  is  a  chapel  to  the  vicarage  of  Holy  Island,  of  the  certified  value  of  £13 ;  the 
patrons,  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Durham,  Bishop  Crewe's  trustees,  in  1750,  gave 
£50  to  repafa*  the  chancel.  The  village  consists  of  two  farm-holds,  and  a  few  cot- 
tages for  workmen  and  labourers.  Sir  C.  Haggerston,  J,  P.  Selby,  esq.  and  Henry 
Morton,  esq.  have  property  here. 

This  place  gave  name  to  a  resident  family  in  the  reign  of  king  Edward  I.  when 
Eustace  de  Kyley  was  settled  there.    At  this  place,  according  to  Leland,*  primis 

*  Leland  wrote  the  first  regular  topographioal  History  of  England.  He  was  librarian  to  Henry  VHL  and 
in  1 5S4  received  a  commission  from  the  king,  granting  him  liber^  and  power  to  enter  and  search  the  libraries 
of  tilie  religious  houses,  aod  all  other  places  wherein  any  records  or  writings  relative  to  antiquity  wer^  d^>G^tec(^ 

VOL,  I,  4  O 


S90  NORHAMSHIRK 

ann»  Hetirici  VIII.  was  found,  ''  betwixt  two  stones,  bokels  of  an  arming  gixdle, 
pe  and  barres  of  the  same,  of  piire  gold ;  a  pomel^  and  crosse,  for  a  sword  of  gold ; 
els  and  typps  of  gold  for  spurs.    D.  Ruthfll  has  some  of  them."    On  Kyloe  HiU 

a  Roman  encampment  may  be  traced.  -  West  Kyloe  belongs  to  M.  Grey,  esq. 

BucTOK  lies  on  the  southern  extremity  of  Islandshire.  It  consists  of  a  farm^-hold 
and  a  few  cottages,  bdonging  to  Sir.  C.  Haggerston.  Bucton  gave  name  to  a  resi- 
dent family,  a  branch  of  the  Forsters,  so  eany  as  bishc^  Bury's  time.  The  Maners, 
Adamsons,  and  Houbums,  held  lands  here,  for  which  mey  (Ud  homage,  fealty,  and 
miU  Af.  the  bishop's  court  at  Norfaam. 


iroitHAMBHmx. 

npHE  extent  and  soil  of  this  valuable  outbntneh  of  the  palatine  of  Durham  have 
been  before  noticed.    Its  eedesiastkal  and  military  history  is  highly  interesting ; 
and  its  modon  fertility  and  excdlent  cultivation  continue  to  give  it  iinpcMrtanoe. 

NORHAM, 

•I 

Which  signifies  the  North-hamlet,  is  the  ancient  Ubbansford»  and  was  the  capital  o/l 
this  district,  where  the  bishops  of  Durham  exercised  a  special  jurisdiction,  with  their 
^herifi^,  escheator,  justices,  and  other  civil  officers,  and  where  they  held  their  exche- 
Quer.  It  is  now  a  pleasant  village  in  a  low  situation  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed, 
about  seven  miles  south-west  by  west  from  Berwidc.  It  consists  only  of  one  long 
and  wide  street,  and  presents  httle  to  interest  the  curious  traveller.  The  churcn 
stands  near  the  river.  Nothing  now  remains  of  the  ancient  church  except  the  middle 
aisle ;  but,  by  some  modem  repairs,  it  is  rend»ed  a  decent  place  of  worship.  The 
chancel,  or  east  end  of  the  church,  appears  to  have  been'  totally  destroyed.  When 
the  ruins  of  the  walls  in  the  church-yard  were  levelled,  a  sculpture  was  diseovared, 
which,  Mr.  Hutchinson  ima^nes,  was  the  ornament  of  an  ancient  font.  There  are 
represented  on  this  stone  ttoee  personages ;  in  the  upper  compartments,  St.  Peter 
with  'his  keys,  in  the  lower,  St.  Cutitib«*t  and  St.  •Ceolwulf,  with  his  sceptre ;  on  a 
fillet  which  divides  these  figures  is  an  inscription  b^inning  I.  H.  Z.  but  the  other 
characters  are  so  defaced,  as  to  baffle  the  attempts  or  the  most  patient  antiquary  to 
decypher  them.  There  were  three  chauntries  in  the  church,  one  of  whidi  was  c(edi- 
cated  to  St.  Cuthbert,  the  founder's  name  not  now  known :  one  Thomas  de  Kellawe 
occurs  chaplain  in  the  year  1368.  The  second  diaiintay  was  founded  by  bishop  An- 
thony Beck,  in  the  year  1988,  and  was  dedicated  to  the  Blessed  Virgin.  The  third 
chauntry  was  founded  by  William  de  TwiseU,  in  the  year  1844,  and  was  dedicated 


KOBHAM.  881 

to  St  Nicholas.  This  church  had  the  privilege  of  sanctuaiy  for  the  space  of  S7  days. 
Gospatriok,  created  earl  of  Northumb^land  bv  William  the  Conqueror,  ended  his 
life  at  Ubbanford,  and  was  buried  in  the  porch  of  the  church  there.  SeversX  of  the 
family  of  the  Selhys  are  also  huried  in  this  church.  The  church-yard  contains  near 
four  acres  of  ground.  The  vicarage-house,  which  adjoins  it,  is  surrounded  by  a  fine 
plantation  of  elms,  &c.  Here  are  also  a  Burgher's  meeting-house,  which  is  well  at- 
tended, two  day^ohools,  and  three  public  houses.  There  are  a  great  many  freeholds 
in  this  place.  Such  was  also  the  case  andently ;  for,^  ^^^^  ^^^  Greys  aiid  NeviUs, 
few  persons  held  any  considerable  estates  in  Moirham.  Tne  burgesses  were  held  in 
burgage  tenure.    Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  the  salmon  fishery. 

The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Cuthbert,  and  is  a  vicarage  in  the  gift  of  the  dean 
and  chapter  of  Durham.  The  parish  register  begins  1653*  The  antiquity  of  Norham 
church  IS  placed  very  high.  It  being  on  the  confines  of  Oswald's  territories,  and  im- 
mediately adjacent  to  the  meat  ford  where  travellers  passed,  it  has  been  inferred,  that 
the  Scottish  missionaries  first  preached  the  Gospel  to  the  Northumbrians  here.  It 
has  also  been  affirmed,  that  Norham  was  the  kmg's  bur^h,  where  the  pious  bishop 
Aidan  expired,  though  his  remains  were  interred  at  l^indisfam*  However,  Egfrid 
acquired  the  see  of  Lindisfam  about  the  year  880,  and  he  re-erected,  or  built,  on  a 
new  plan,  a  chiu-ch  at  Norham,  which  he  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  St.  Cuthbert,  and 
St  Ceolwulf ;  and  thither  he  caused  the  royal  remains  of  Cedwulf  to  be  translated 
from  Lindifam,  the  place  of  their  first  interment.*  It  is  probable  that  this  pious  ati- 
tention  was  paid  to  the  memory  of  Ceolwulf  in  gratitude  for  some  confirmatory 
grant  of  that  prince,  which  for  ever  annexed  Norham  to  the  see,  together  with  those 
other  territories  which  he  gave  to  the  church ;  the  names  and  boundaries  of  many  of 

*  The  learned  Mr.  hfaoob,  in  his  notes  to  the  poem  of  Flodden*Field  Fight,  in&rms  us,  that  tl\e  monks  of 
the  cell  of  Norham,  in  the  age  after  the  burial  of  king  Ceolwulf^  called  in  the  country  people  to  make  their 
offerings  at  the  shrine  of  their  royal  brother^  who  always  performed  some  mighty  miracle  on  his  feast-day^  to 
the  great  astonishment  and  edification  of  his  numerous  worshippers.  In  the  northern  counties  (says  Hut« 
chinson)  these  holy  feasts  are  not  yet  abolished^  and  in  the  county  of  Durham  many  are  yet  celebrated :  th^ 
were  originally  feasts  of  dedication,  in  coomiemoraticm  of  the  comecration  of  the  church,  in  imitation  of  Sola* 
mon's  great  convocation  at  the  consecrating  the  temple  of  Jerust^em :  the  religious  tenor  is  totally  forgotten, 
and  the  Sabbath  is  made  a  day  of  every  dissipation  and  vice  which  it  is  possible  to  conceive  could  crowd 
upon  a  villager's  manners  and  rural  life.  The  manner  of  holding  these  festivals,  in  former  times,  was  under 
tents  or  booths  erected  in  the  church-yard,  where  all  kinds  of  diversions  were  introduced.  Interludes  were 
there  performed,  being  a  species  of  theatrical  performance,  consisting  of  a  rdiearsal  of  some  passage  in  holj 
writ  personated  by  actors:  this  kind  of  exhibition  is  spoken  of  by  travellers  who  have  visited  Jerusalem, 
where  the  religious  even'presnme  to  exhibit  die  crucifixion  and  ascension,  with  all  their  tremendous  drcum- 
ftanoei.  On  these  celebrations  in  this  country,  great  fisasts  were  displayed,  and  vast  abundance  of  meat  and 
drink.  From  whence  we  adopted  the  custom  is  not  ascertained,  but  it  seems  (Hrobable,  and  by  some  authora 
it  is  insisted  upon,  that  we  had  it  in  very  great  antiquity,  and  derived  it  from  the  Easterns.  All  their  holy- 
days  were  distingiiished  by  great  feasts;  the  celebrationi  we  read  of  were  performed  with  all  die  pomp  of 
procession,  approaching  the  ten^ple  of  the  gods  with  ofierings  in  great  magnificence  and  qilendour :  where 
the  cattle  were  consecrated,  and  then  delivered  over  to  feast  the  multitude.  The  feast  of  the  translation  of 
St  Cuthbertf s  bpdy  is  celebrated  every  yea|:  with  gr«Rt  reverence,  by  the  inhalatants  of  Norham,  on  the  first 
Sundny  ^  Moo^y  after  the  4th  day  of  September,  old  s^le. 


»82  NORHAMSHIRE. 

which  the  monastic  writers  have  recorded  :*  though  some  have  attributed  the  ^ft  of 
Noriiam  to  Egfrid.  But  some  historians  question  the  truth  of  the  latter  assertion,  as 
Oswald  gave  Norham  to  the  Scotch  missionaries  for  their  first  residence. 

The  remains  of  the  lofty  CasUe  of  Norham^  which  crowns  the  eminence  about  half 
a  mile  distance  from  the  village,  attest  the  antiquity  of  the  place.  It  is  uncertain 
whether  there  were  any  regular  fortress  at  Norham  previous  to  the  removal  of  the 
see  to  Durham  ;  though  it  is  probable  that  some  kind  of  helm,  or  strong-hold,  occu- 
pied the  hUl  where  the  present  castle  stands.  During  the  distracted  state  into  which 
Northumberland  was  constantly  involved  from  the  year  995,  when  the  see  was  seated 
at  Durham,  unto  thQ  elevation  of  bishop  Flambard  in  1099,  Norham  is  scarcely  ever 
noticed.  Historians  have  observed,  that  his  predecessor,  in  consequence  of  his  pala- 
tine lurisdiction,  displayed  a  military  standard,  similar  to  that  of  a  sovereign  prince, 
which  was  called  the  banner  of  St.  Vuthhert^  and  was  carried  with  the  troops  which 
Edgar  led  into  Scotland.  This  expedition,  it  is  presumed,  might  suggest  an  idea, 
that  a  fortress  at  Norham  would  prove  a  useful  barrier  to  the  possessions  of  the  church 
and  the  protection  of  Northumberland.  However  this  may  be,  certain  it  is,  that  the 
bold  and  enterprising  bishop  Flambard  fully  appreciated  the  importance  of  this  posi- 
tion :  accordingly,  this  warlike  prelate,  notwithstanding  the  unpropitious  circum- 
stances with  which  he  had  to  struggle,  effected  this  great  work  in  the  year  1121. 

The  fortress  is  situated  on  the  brink  of  a  steep  rock,  whose  foot  is  washed  by  the 
river  Tweed,  Camden,  who  had  his  information  respecting  it  from  Dr.  Carlton  of 
Norham,f  describes  this  castle,  in  his  time,  to  be  "  fortified  with  a  ditch.  On  the 
outer  wall,'*  says  he,  "  which  is  of  great  compass,  were  many  little  towers  in  the  angle 
next  the  river :  within  is  another  circular  wall,  much  stronger,  in  the  centre 
whereof  rises  a  loftier  tower."  This  description  furnishes  a  perfect  idea  of  the 
figure  of  this  fortress,  after  it  had  received  repairs  by  bishop  Tunstal.  Towards 
the  river,  the  ruins  now  hang  upon  the  very  verge  of  the  precipice;  part  of 

^  The  donations  to  the  church  of  Durham  were  immense :— >Norham^  by  bishop  Egfrid.— Carlisle,  and  a 
district  of  15  miles  round,  by  EgfHd.— All  the  district  between  Tyne  and  Tees,  by  Guthred  and  Alfred, 
A.  D.  SS3.— Staindrop  and  Raby,  by  Canute.— South  Wearmouth,  in  the  county  of  Durham,  together  with 
eleven  villages,  by  Ethelstan.— The  lordship  of  Darlington,  in  the  county  of  Durham,  by  a  nobleman  whose 
name  was  Slire.-*— The  lordships  of  Bradburg,  Morden,  and  Griseby,  were  given  by  one  Swaculph. — King 
William  II.  gave  North  Allerton,  where  bishop  Pudsey  built  a  palace.— Sadberge  was  purchased  of  king 
Richard  by  Pudsey,  and  annexed  to  the  see,  from  whence  the  temporalities  of  an  earl  are  derived  by  the 
bishops  of  Durham.-^arrow  was  given  by  bishop  Walcher.— South  Yoden  was  given  by  Tillered,  abbot  of 
HefTereham.— Chester-le-Street,  by  king  Egfrid. 

f  Dr.  George  Carlton  was  bom  at  Norham,  of  which  his  father  was  governor,  and  educated  at  Kepyer 
schocd  at  Houghton-le-Spring,  under  the  eminent  Bernard  GUpin.  He  was  afterwards  removed  to  Oxford. 
He  was  one  of  the  four  divines  sent  by  king  James  to  the  synod  of  Dort.  He  was  bishop  of  LandaflT,  and 
afterwards  of  Chichester.  He  wrote,  amongst  others,  two  treatises  called  *'A  thankful  Remembrance  of 
God's  Mercy,  and  a  Confutation  of  Judicial  Astrology.'-  His  Life  of  Gilpin  was  originally  written  in  Latin« 
blit  was  soon  translated,  and  ran  through  several  editions.  He  was  also  the  author  of  a  Latin  epistle  to 
Camden,  containing  some  observations  on  his  *'  Britannia ;"  and  of  several  sermons  and  polemical  tracts.  He 
di^j  aged  69^  in  l6S8^  leaving  the  character  of  an  excellent  divine^  a  good  scholar,  and  an  amiable  man. 


NOHHAM.  888 

(  • 

which,  by  the  washing  of  the  stream,  has  given  way,  and  carried  with  it  the  super- 
structures  on  that  side ;  and,  with  the  decay  incident  to  the  length  of  time,  has 
occasioned  a  wide  breach  in  the  outward  wall,  spoken  of  by  Camden :  the  turrets,  as 
he  was  pleased  to  call  them,  appear  to  be  no  other  tban  demi-bastions,  a  mode  of  for- 
tification generally  followed,  in  which  the  chief  strength  of  this  castle  consisted.    The 
wall,  which  stretched  from  the  water  on  the  south  side,  was  guarded  with  a  gateway 
and  tower  above  it,  having  square  turrets  on  each  hand :  the  ascent  from  thence  was 
steep,  the  way  bending  towards  the  east ;  and  through  the  wall,  the  entrance  was  by 
another  gateway  of  superior  dimensions,  fortified  by  two  heavy  round  flanking  towers. 
This  appears  to  have  been  the  chief  entrance,  and  fronts  to  a  plain  of  considerable 
extent;  it  was  defended  by  a  draw-bridge  over  a  very  wide  moat,  which  began  near 
to  this  gateway,  and  was  extended  round  the  castle  on  the  land-side,  inclosing  a  spa* 
cious  area  or  ballium,  fortified  with  a  very  strong  wall,  garnished  with  demi-bastions 
at  intervals.    To  defend  the  keep  or  main  tower,  a  strong  wall  incloses  a  narrow 
area,  which  is  entered  by  a  gateway,  guarded  on  eadi  hand  by  square  towers.     The 
keep  is  a  very  heavy  square  building,  vaulted  underneath,  like  most  structures  of 
this  sort    Part  of  the  vaults  or  prisons  remain  entire,  but  all  the  interior  parts  of  the 
tower  above  are  laid  open  and  ruined.    An  exploratory  turret  appears  tQ.  have  beeQ 
on  the  comef  of  the  keep :  it  may  be  presumed.it  was  uniform,  with  similar  turrets 
on  the  other  comers.    The  height  of  the  great  tower  was  about  seventy  feet,  contain^ 
ing  four  stories,  or  ranges  of  apartments.    The  whole  building  is  constructed  of  red 
freestone,  of  a  soft  nature,  and  very  subject  to  decay :  there  is  not  the  least  ornament 
about  it,  and  the  whole  aspect  is  miserably  gloomy.     It,  however,  must  have  been 
impregnable  before  the  use  of  fire-arms.    BiSiop  Barnes  alienated  to  the  crown  the 
royal  franchise  of  Norham,  with  the  castle  and  demesne  there,  which  queen  Elizabeth 
granted  to  Sir  Robert  Carey,  younger  son  of  lord  Hunsdon,  cousin  german  to  th^ 
queen :  he  married,  the  .daughter  of  Sir  Hugh  Trevquiax  of  Cornwall,  and  widow  of 
— -..  Widdrington  of  Widdrington  castle,  where  she  and  Sir  Robert  Carey  entertained 
king  James  on  his  way  to  London,  April  I6O8.    The  castle  and  demesne  were  after«r 
wards  sold  for  £6000,  and  the  furniture  of  the  castle  for  £800,  to  George  Hume, 
earl  of  Dunbar.    The  manor  belongs  to  the  H^gerston  family ;  and  the  castle  and 
demesne,  containing  1080  acres,  extend  eastward  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed  nearly 
two  miles.    Mr.  Alder,  who  purchased  the  castle  of  the  late  Mr.  Fenwick  of  Lem^ 
mington,  near  Whittingham,  demolished  the  out-works,  particularly  near  to  the 
western  gate,  and  removed  the  ashlar  stones  for  the  purpose  of  building  a  fann-house^ 
a  little  distance  to  the  south.    These  venerable  ruins  are,  however,  at  present  in  th* 
possession  of  Sir  Prands  Blake,  hart,  whose  veneration  for  the  wprkj  pf  antiquity 
will  protect  them  from  the  unhallowed  haiid  pf  destruction  * 

^  In  cleaning  out  the  ditch  of  the  keep,  wherein  was  procured  much  excellent  manure,  about  S9  years  agOj  a 
large  two-handed  broad  sword  was  fbund,  an  iron  spur  with  a  brass  rowel  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  a 
steel  arrow  point,  several  plaited  straps  of  leather,  each  half  an  inch  in  breadth,  which  appeared  to  be  the 
remains  of  a  buckler  to  resist  the  force  of  weapons,  and  the  remains  of  a  shoe,  very  sharp  at  the  toe,  and 
narrow  at  the  faistep.    A  very  deep  well  wiis  discovered,  in  an  apartment  adpHning  to  the  dungeon  tower^ 

VQL,  I.  4  P 


884  NORHAMSHIRE. 

After  bishop  Flambsrd's  death,  the  castle  did  not,  lofig'  remaiil  snassoiled  by  the 
Scot&  In  11S8,  king  David  L  of  Scotland  besi»ed  Norham^  which^  #ftei:  a  most 
gallant  defence,  was  surrendered :  the  victor  causea  both  the  castite  and  the  town  to 
be  destroyed.  Both  were  restored  by  bishop  Pudsey  in  1164,  who  built  the  great 
tower  of  the  castle,  and  granted  the  town  a  diarfer  of  privileges.  This  prelate  was 
afterwards  compelled  to  deliver  the  fortress  to  the  king  during  the  life-time  of  the 
latter.  In  1 303,  an  angry  conference  was  held  in  this  castle,  between  king  John>  and 
William  the  Lion,  king  of  Scotland.  Peace,  however,  was  maintained  by  the  inter- 
vention of  the  nobility.  In  1211,  the  two  kings  held  anofliier  conference  here,  when 
the  terms  of  peace  were  ratified.  Ermengard,  queen  of  Scotland,  being  present,  by 
her  amiable  conduct  greatly  promoted  the  treaty.  Two  years  afterwards,  king  John 
returned  to  Norham  to  solicit  the  support  of  the  Soots  against  the  papal  interdict; 
but  sickness  prevented  king  WilKam  fiom  meeting  this  miseraUe  tyrant,  who  was 
compelled  to  submit  to  the  holy  see,  and  shortly  afterwards  to  sign  the  great  charter 
and  charter  of  the  fore^.  In  1215,  king  John,  in  resentment  Yox  the  homage  paid 
hj  the  barons  of  Northumberland  to  Alexander  II.  king  of  Scotland,  invested  Nor- 
ham with  a  great  army.  But  the  skill  aiid  bravery  of  the  garrison  baffled  all  his 
efforts,  and  in  forty  days  he  was  obliged  to  raise  the  si^e. 

King  Henry  fll.  having  projected  a  scheme  for  obtaming  possession  of  Alexander 
III.  a  minor,  king  of  Scowtod,  thie  gbvemment  of  the  casttes  of  Nc»*ham  and  Wark 
w^te  bestowied  upon  Robert  de  NeioH,  lord  of  Raby,  \^ho  was  ordered  "  to  provide 
Myself  with  fiorse  and  arms^^  to  assist  in  executing  the  ^ot.  C^  the  demise  of  the 
Scotch  king,  in  1286,  without  issue,  the  ambitious  Edward  1.  met  the  nobles  of 
Scotland  in  die  chuit5h  at  Nortiain.  The  king,  in  orde)c  to  decide  the  contest  for  the 
Vacant  crotm  justly,  requested  the  nobks  to  acknowledge  him  as  Lord  Paramount  of 
all  Scotland,  This  bold  proposal,  it  is  allied,  vras  supported  widi  great  skill  and 
artifice  by  Anthony  Be^k,  then  bishop  of  Durham ;  and  the  Scotch,  anxious  to  pre- 
serve peace,  sefter  some  ddiberaticm  consented  to  acknowledge  the  supreme  authority 
of  the  English  monarch.  After  repeated  conferences  in  the  absence  of  king  Edwara, 
Judgment  was  pronounced  in  favour  of  John  Baliol,  who  swore  fealty  to  nis  patron 
the  Englii^h  king  in  the  casde  of  Norham.  This  disgraceful  scene  was  witnessed  by 
mant"  nobles  of  both  nations. 

IrJ  the  fofldtving  reirti,  in  the  year  1918,  Norham  was  besieged  by  the  Scots,  Sir 
Thomas  Gt^y  being  then  governor,,  by  whose  brave  defmce,  and  the  timely  aid  oJT 
the  lords  ^ercy  and  NeviU,  it  was  preserved  flfom  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  In  order 
to  carry  on  the  siege,  the  Soots  laised  two  forts  i^nst  the  castle :  one  at  the  church 
of  Norham,  and  the  other  ait  Upsetlington.*    In  I82fllt  the  Soots  became  masters  of 

•  In  Leland's  Collectanea  (vol.  iv.  p.  10)  we  have  the  following  curious  particulars  of  this  siege :— "  The 
Scottes  came  yntothe  Marches  of  England,  and  destroyed  the  castelles  of  Werk  and  Herbotel,  and  overran 
much  of  Ninthumberland  Marches.  At  this  tyme  Thomas  Gray  and  his  frendes  defendid  Norham  from  the 
Sfx>ltes.  It  were  a  wonderfull  piocesse  to  declare  what  mischefes  cam  by  hungre  and  asseges  by  the  space 
of  XI  yeres  m  Northumbreland ;  iot  the  Scottes  became  so  proude  after  they,  got  Berwick,  that  they  nothing 
esteeinid  the  Ei^Uschmen*.    About  this  tyme  there  was  a  great  feste  made  yn  Lincolnshire  to  which  cam 


KORHAM.  885 

this  fortress ;  but  it  was  soon  after  taken  by  king  Edwiid,  who  oontiiiued  the  assault 
ten  days.  On  the  night  of  king  Edward  III.'s  coronation,  the  Scots  made  an  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  to  surprise  the  oastie*  But  in  the  following  year  (1827)  they  took  it 
by  storm,  but,  it  seems,  did  not  retain  it  lon^.  A  party  of  Scots  in  1355,  under  the 
command  of  Sir  William  Ramsay,  bmnt  and  plundered  the  town  of  Norham  and  the 
adjacent  country. 

In  the  thirteenth  year  of  the  reign  of  king  Henry  VII.  the  Scots  led  by  king 
James  in  person  besieged  Norham  dastle,  which  bad  been  put  into  good  repair  by 
Fox,  then  bishop  of  Ihirham,  and  was  well  garrisoned.  The  bishop  came  in  person 
to  its  succour,  and,  eluding  the  vigilance  of  the  besiegers,  entered  tne  fortress  at  the 
head  of  a  small  but  determined  band  of  followers.  After  a  gallant  defence  of  sixteen 
days,  the  shattered  fortress  w^  relieved  by  the  earl  of  Surrey,  who  pursiied  the  re- 
treating Scotch  across  the  Tweed. 

In  the  5th  year  of  the  reign  of  king  Hennr  VIII.  the  castle  was  assaulted  by  the 
Scots  previous  to  the  battle  of  Flodden  Fielc^  an<i  it  it  said  that  all  attempts  to  take 
it  were  suocessfoOy  defeated,  until,  by  the  advice  of  a  traitor,  the  Scots  descended 
from  Ladv-kirk  !Bank  into  the  flat  ground  near  the  Tweed,  now  csdled  the  Gm 
Haugh,  whence  with  his  cannon  the  Steotdi  king  threw  down  the  north-east  comer  of 
the  wall : — 

» 

teany  gentleinen  and  ladies ;  and  emonge  them  a  lady  brought  a  heo&w  fye  a  man  of  were^  with  a  very 
rich  create  of  gold^  to  William  Marmion,  knight,  with  a  letter  of  commamideihent  of  her  hidf,  Uiat  he  should 
go  into  the  daungerust  place  in  England,  and  there  to  let  the  heualme  to  be  seene  and  knowne  as  famous. 

.  So  he  went  to  Norham  ;  whither  withjm  4  dayes  of  cumming,  cam  Philip  Moubray^  gardian  of  Barwike^ 
having  in  his  band  140  men  of  armeSt  the  very  flour  of  men  of  the  Scottisch  Marches.  Thomas  Gray,  capi- 
tayne  of  Nortiam,  sesring  this,  brought  his  gariaon  afore  the  bariers  of  the  castd,  behynd  whom  cam  William 
richely  arrayed,  as  all  glittering  in  golde,  and  wearing  the  heualme  as  his  lady's  present  Then  sayd  Thomas 
Gray  to  Marmion,  '  Sir  Knight^  ye  be  cum  hither  to  fame  your  heualme,  mount  upon  yor  horse^  and  ryde 
like  a  valiant  man,  to  yon  army  even  here  at  hand,  and  I  forsake  God,  if  I  rescue  not  thy  body  deade  or 
aly ve,  or  I  myself  wyl  dye  for  it.'    Whereapon  he  took  his  cursore,  and  rode  among  the  throng  of  enemyes ; 

"  the  which  layd  sore  stripes  on  hym  and  pullid  hym  at  the  last  oute  of  his  sadel  to  the  grounde.  Then  Tho- 
mas Gray  with  all  the  hole  garrison  lette  pryk  yn  emong  the  Scottes,  and  so  wonded  them  and  their  horses, 
that  they  were  overthrowen,  and  Marmion  sore  beten  was  horsid  agayn,  and  with  Gray  persewid  the  Scottes 
in  chaoe.  There  were  taken  50  horses  of  price ;  and  the  women  of  Norham  brought  them  to  the  foote  men 
to  follow  the  chase.  Sir  Thomas  Gray  hymselfe  killed  one  Cryne,  a  Fleming,  an  admiral,  and  great  robber 
on  the  see,  and  3m  hy  favor  with  Robert  Bruise :  the  resydew  that  escaped  were  chased  to  the  Nunnes  of 
Berwickc.  Adam  de  Gordon,  a  baron  of  Scotland^  came  with  I60  men  to  dryve  away  the  cattel  pasturing 
by  Norham^  but  the  yong  men  of  the  oountery  thereaboute  encountered  with  them,  whom  Thomas  Grray 
seing  to  stand  jeopardy,  went  oute  with  onely  60  men,  and  killed  most  parte  of  the  Scottes  and  their  horsis. 
The  same  Thomas  was  tui^  assiged  yn  the  castel  of  Norham  by  the  Scottes,  one  tyme  by  the  space  almost 
of  an  yere,  the  other  7  monithes :  his  ennemies  made  ibrtresses  before  the  castel,  one  at  Upsedflington,  another 
yn  the  chirch  of  Norham.  This  castel  was  twise  vitailed  by  the  lotd  Percy  and  Neville,  that  becaqie  very 
noble  men,  and  rich  and  great  socorers  of  the  Marches  of  England.  The  utter  ward  of  Norham  castel  was 
ons  taken  in  Thomas  Gray's  tyme,  on  the  vigill  of  St  Catarine,  but  diey  kept  yt  but  3  days,  fat  tbeyr  pur- 
pose  in  myning  &yllid  them." 


336  norhamshire:. 

*<  So  when  the  Soots  the  walk  had  won^  ^  Therefore  for  thia  thy  traiteroua  takk. 
And  rifled  every  nook  and  place ;  Thou  shall  be  tried  in  a  trioe ; 

The  traitor  came  to  the  king  anon,  Hangman,  therefore,  quoth  he,  be  quick. 
But  for  reward  met  with  disgrace.  The  groom  shall  have  no  better  plaoe.^^ 

In  1552,  the  castle  of  Norham  appears,  from  lord  Wharton's  proposals  for  the 
better  protection  of  the  marches,  to  be  vested  in  the  crown,  "  It  is,"  says  Sir  Ralph 
Sadler,  **  the  most  convenient  place  of  service  for  the  warden  of  theste  march  to  lye 
at,  having  thereunto  annexet  all  that  the  holle  revennewes  perteyninge,  and  bdong- 
ing  to  the  saide  castell;  withein  Elande  Shire  and  Norhume  Shire,  as  they  came  to 
the  handes  of  the  late  bishoppe  of  Duresme  with  the  yerely  fee  of  one  pomide  by  the 
yere.'*  The  bishops  of  Durham  had  jurisdiction  over  the  villa  of  Upsetmigton,  whidh 
was  hdd  of  the  castle  of  Norham. 

A  mile  below  Norham  the  Tweed  forms  an  island  of  fourteen  acres,  near  a  place 
called  St.  Thomas's  Dean.  A  httle  to  the  west  is  a  lofty  terrace,  where  the  Tweed 
forms  a  serpentine  canal,  the  seat  of  the  Kers,  of  Kersfield.  Near  half  a  mile  further 
down  the  nver,  on  the  left  of  the  road  leading  to  ComhiH,  two  small  urns  were  foimd 
in  a  gravel  pit  caUed  the  Crooks,  and  several  numan  bones  deposited  near  to  them. 

About  100  yards  from  this  place,  says  Wallis,  is  a  pedestal  of  a  aross,  with  some  of 
its  broken  fragments,  and  about  200  yards  ftu*ther,  another,  and  a  pleasant  mound, 
with  a  course  of  stone  steps  round  it,  an  ancient  sepulture  or  burrow.  The  crosses 
were  erected  by  the  road  rormerly  leading  from  Tillmouth  chapel,  to  the  villa,  chiudx, 
and  castle  of  Norham. 

TwiZELL  Castle,  the  seat  of  Sir  Francis  Blake,  stands  on  the  brink  of  a  rocky 
precipice  east  of  the  river  Till.  The  rock  is  finely  fringed  with  wood,  which  adm 
much  to  th^  interest  of  the  castle.  This  romantic  and  Mautiful  seat  was  begun  near 
fifty  years  ago,  and  is  built  in  a  castellated  form,  of  a  fine  white  freestone.  It  is  in- 
tended to  be  very  lofty;  and  to  be  finished  with  fifteen  feet  turrets  at  the  comers,  all 
of  which  will  command  a  most  extensivct  and  interesting  prospect  The  interior  is 
remarkably  elegant  and  commodious,  and  aU  the  apartments  are  vaulted  to  prevent 
accidents  by  fire.  The  gallery,  which  is  very  handsome,  is  ninety  feet  in  lengtiii,  and 
twenty-two  feet  in  width. 

Twizell,  in  1272,  was  held  in  soccage  tenure  of  the  Mitford  barons  by  Alicia  de 
Merely.  In  1329»  it  belonged,  with  Duddo,  Grindon,  and  most  of  the  manor  of 
Tillmouth,  to  Sir  William  Kiddell.  According  to  the  records  quoted  by  Hutchin- 
son, the  Riddells  failed  of  male  issue,  and  the  manor  became  the  property  of  the 
Herons.    From  Wallis,  it  seems  afterwards  to  have  been  for  several  descents  in  the  | 

possession  of  a  branch  of  the  ancient  family  of  the  Selbvs ;  of  Sir  John  Selby,  a  com- 
missioner for  endosures  of  the  east  mardbes,  6  king  Edward  VI.  and  deputy-warden 
of  the  east  marches  under  Henry  lord  Hunsdon  in  the  reign  of  queen  Elizabeth ;  S^* 

*  According  to  Mr.  Lamb,  in  his  notes  on  the  poem  of  Flodden  Field,  there  is  a  field  near  the  castle,  in  which 
this  traitoc  was  hanged,  now  called  Hangman's  Land*    This  circumstance  is  not  mentioned  by  the  historian^  • 


NORHAM.  »87 

WilUam  Selby,  of  Grindon,  being  at  the  same  time  master  of  the  ordnance  at  Ber- 
wick. Sir  John  claimed  a  fishery  in  the  river  Tweed,  called  TiUmouth-haugh 
fishery,  but  by  the  commissioners  appointed  to  adjust  and  settle  all  claims  and  differ- 
ences <*i  the  borders,  1553,  it  was  adjudged  to  be  a  Scotch  fishery,  belonging  to  the 
f)riory  of  Coldstream,  leased  to  Alexander  Hume,  of  Maders-town,  and  that  the 
ord  of  the  manor  of  Twizell  had  only  a  right  to  use  and  occupy  a  ring-net,  and  to 
stand  on  a  place  called  Fillispotte,  upon  the  south  side  of  the  river.  His  son,  Wil- 
liam Selby,  had  the  manors  of  Branxton,  Moneylaws,  Shotton,  Lowick,  and  half  of 
the  forest  of  Cheviot.  Twizell  is  now  in  the  possession  of  a  branch  of  the  ancient 
family  of  the  Blakes.* 

At  Twizell  the  TiU  is  crossed  by  a  stone  bridge,  of  one  strong  and  beautiful  arch, 
as  described  by  Leland.  It  is  nearly  semicircular,  ninety  feet  seven  inches  from  base 
to  base,  and  in  height  from  the  top  of  the  battlement  forty-six  feet  two  inches.  The 
parapet  has  just  been  repaired.  Tradition  ascribes  its  erection  to  a  lady  of  the  Selby 
family.  Through  the  arch  of  the  bridge  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  opposite  banks. 
A  little  below,  on  the  edge  of  the  TUl,  is  an  upright  rock,  about  twenty  feet  high, 
tapering  to  the  top,  near  to  which  is  a  fine  petrifying  fountain,  consecrated  to  St, 
Helen,  and  dose  to  it  an  ancient  burying-place,  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  Selby 
family. 

*  This  family  is  of  British  extraction,  and  traditionally  descended  ftom  Ap  Lake,  one  of  the. knights  of 
king  Arthur's  Round  Table.  In  the  reign  of  Henry  II.  one  of  this  family,  «  high  spirited  youth,  accompa- 
nied Richard  de  Clare,  earl  of  Pembroke,  sumamed  Strongbow,  in  his  memorable  successful  expedition  to 
Ireland,  from  which  country  he  never  returned ;  but  after  various  military  exploits  and  public  services,  seated 
himself  at  Menlaw,  in  the  county  of  Galway,  where  he  built  himself  a  castle,  and  where  his  posterity  in  a 
right  line  have  continued  to  flourish  ever  since.  Robert  Blake,  esq.  of  this  family,  married  Sara}i,  third 
daughter  of  Sir  Francis  Blake,  of  Ford  Castle,  in  Northumberland,  knt.  lineally  descended  from  the  original 
English  stock,  anciently  seated  at  Calne,  in  Wilts.  Sir  Francis  married  Elizabeth,  daughter  and  coheiress  of 
William  Carr,  of  Ford  Castle,  esq.  He  served  in  two  parliaments  for  Berwick  upon  Tweed.  But  the  most 
eminent  man  of  this  family  was  the  highly  celebrated  Admiral  Blake,  who  died  in  1657,  unmarried. 

I.  Sir  Francis  ^lake,  grandfather  of  the  present  baronet,  took  a  very  active  part  iu  support  of  government, 
during  the  rebellion  in  1745*  He  married  Isabel,  daughter  and  coheiress  of  Samuel  Ay  ton,  of  West  Har- 
rington, in  Durham,  esq.  by  whom  he  had,  I,  Robert,  who  died  Jan.  25,  1754,  aged  20;  2,  Sarah,  wife  of 
Christopher  Reed,  esq.  of  Chipchase  Castle,  in  Northumberland,  who  has  iAue ;  3,  Isabella,  who  died  un<« 
married ;  4,  Frances ;  and  three  other  children,  who  died  infknts.  Sir  Francis  died  March  SO,  1780,  aged 
72.— II.  Sir  Francis,  the  father  of  the  present  baronet,  married  Elizabeth,  only  surviving  daughter  of  Alex^ 
ander  Douglas,  esq.  late  chief  of  the  British  settlement  at  Bussorah,  in  Persia,  by  whom  he  had,  1,  Elizabeth, 
who  died  July,  1815;  2,  Francis,  his  successor;  3,  Robert  Dudley,  a  colonel  in  the  army;  4,  Isabella; 
5,  Sarah ;  6,  William ;  7,  Eleanor,  married  Feb.  23,  1805,  Bethell  Eamshaw  Stag,  esq.  of  Yorkshire,  and  has 
issue,  a  daughter,  bom  Nov.  18,  1807.  This  baronet  died  at  the  inn  in  Comhill,  on  returning  from  Edin. 
burgh,  in  June,  1818,  in  his  81st  year.  He  was  distinguished  by  the  endowments  of  a  cultivated  under- 
standing. His  proposal  to  pay  off  the  national  debt  by  every  landholder  transferring  a  proportional  part  of 
his  property  to  the  fUndholders,  though  not  perhaps  marked  by  a  deep  knowledge  of  political  science,  evinced 
the  real  patriotism  and  rare  generosity  of  his  character. — III.  Sir  Francis,  the  present  baronet,  was  colonel  of 
the  late  Northumberland  regiment  of  Fendble  Infimtry^  He  is,  at  present,  one  of  tjhe  members  of  parliament 
for  the  borough  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed. 

VOL,  I,— (15)  4  Q 


988  NORHAMSHIRE. 

TiLLMOTTTH  is  a  small  village  on  the  west  side  of  TwizeH  bridge.  It  belongs 
prindpaUy  to  Sir  Francis  Blake,  who  has  built  a  neat  littie  mansion-bouse,  for  his 
oecasaonal  residence,  on  the  banks  of  the  Till,  and  at  the  east  end  of  tiie  viflj^.  It 
contains  an  excellent  collection  of  pictures.  Tillmouth  belonged  to  Jordan  Kiddell 
m  1272,  and  afterwards  to  the  Claverings  for  many  generations.  Tillmoutii  chapel, 
dedicated  to  St.  Cuthbert,  and  situated  on  a  peninsma  at  the  confluence  of  the  Till 
and  Tweed,  is  now  in  ruins.*  Not  far  from  this  ruined  building.  Sir  Francis  Blake, 
a  few  years  ago,  buUt  a  small  chapel.  Near  this  place  lay  till  lately  the  remains  of  a 
stone  boat  or  coffin,  in  which,  tradition  says,  the  body  of  St.  Cuthbert  was  miracu- 
lously conveyed  down  the  Tweed  from  Melros. 

^^  In  his  stone  coffin  down  he  rides, 
(A  ponderous  bark  for  river  tides) 
Yet  light  as  gossamer  it  glides 
Downwards  to  Tillmouth^s  cell.^ 

Marmion^  ca/nio  2. 

Mr.  Gougli,  in  his  additions  to  Camden,  says,  that  it  "  is  a  stone  boat,  of  as  fine  a 
shape  as  a  boat  of  wood."  It  was  nine  feet  three  inches  in  length — ^its  mean  outside 
breadth,  three  feet  three  inches — ^the  height,  one  foot  nine  inches — and  the  thickness, 
four  and  a  half  inches.  From  thenoe  the  late  Mr.  Bailey  calculated,  that  it  woidd 
displace  3287^  lb.  of  water,  and  would  weigh  8125  lb.  The  difference,  162^  lb.,  is 
the  additional  weight  the  boat  would  carry,  which  is  equal  to  that  of  a  man  near 
twelve  stone  weight.  These  philosophical  exhibitions  in  ages  of  profound  ignorance, 
among  the  vulgar,  were  always  esteemed  mirades.  Mr.  Hutchinson  mentions  a  cir- 
cumstance which  continues  to  be  repeated  among  the  Northumbrian  peasantry. 
"  There  was,  some  years  ago,  a  design  to  convert  this  hallowed  vessel  to  a  mean  pur- 
pose, a  peasant  having  devised  to  pickle  pork  in  it,  or  thereout  to  feed  his  hogs ;  to 
preserve  it  from  such  profanation,  the  spirits  of  darkness  brake  it  in  the  night." 

Half  a  mile  west  from  Tillmouth,  on  the  left  of  the  road,  stood  a  stone  cross,  called 
Tillmouth-cross,  below  which,  on  the  north  side,  is  an  entrenchment,  nearly  square, 
called  the  Haly  Chesters.f 

CORNHILL 

Is  situate  on  the  south-west  extremity  of  the  shire,  twelve  miles  north-west  by  north 
from  Wooler,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  east  by  south  from  Coldstream.  The  turnpike 
road  leading  to  Edinburgh  passes  through  this  place,  and  an  excdlent  inn  makes  it  a 

*  The  Vicar  of  Tillmouth  did  write  an  historic  thus  intituled^  *'  Historia  Arirea,"  wherein  is  much  to  be 
seene  of  kinge  William  Conqueror's  cuming  jnto  England.— Z>/1  Col. 

t  Tillmouth  manor  was  anciently  held  by  the  Kingestones^  who  were  lords  of  Twizell.  The  Riddells  be- 
longed to.this  manor^  and  afterwards  the  Stiyvelings  held  the  manors  of  Tillmouth  and  Dudhowe  together 
till  the  death  of  James  de  Stryveling,  who  had  a  life  estate  therein,  and  whose  heir  was  Robert,  son  of  W3- 


NORHAM.  889 

eomfortaUe  resting-place  tor  the  trayeller.  ComhiU  chapel  is  dedif^tted  to  St.  Helen, 
of  the  certified  value  of  £ll»  Is.  but  of  the  real  value  of  £40.  I^  is  a  chapehy  to 
the  vicarage  of  Norham.  Formerly  it  was  only  a  chapel  of  ease ;  but  in  oonsequ^ice 
of  receiving  queen  Anne's  bounty  in  1780,  it  was  made  a  perpetual  curacy.  It  is 
one  of  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Durham's  peculiars,  and  pays  no  rruits  or  procurations 
to  the  bishop. 

The  church  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  and  is  a  small  and  humble  building. 
The  trustees  of  bishop  Crewe  gave  £50,  in  1761,  to  Henry  Collingwood,  esq.  of 
Comhill,  to  rebuild  it.  In  pulling  down  the  old  chapel,  there  was  found,  about  uiree 
feet  lower  than  the  old  foundations^  a  stone  chest,  about  eight  feet  in  length,  in  which 
were  two  urns  of  coarse  potterVf  together  with  the  shank  bones  and  skim  of  a  person 
of  great  size.  The  contents  of  the  urns  are  not  certainly  known,  being  shuffled  out 
in  a  struggle  among  the  workman,  who  imagined  they  had  found  a  treasure. 

In  the  diurch-yard  is  the  following  inscription  on  the  tomb  of  an  old  man»  an  em« 
pyric,  at  Twizell : — 

**  Eheu !  quis  mortis  jam  retardabit  falcem  ? 

Archiater  ille  indytus,  ad  pontem  ThoUili, 

Jacobus  Purely  non  vacsat  ssgtis, 
Obiit  ipse  4to  die  Deoembris,  A.  D.  1752,  et  aetat.  81.    Et  cum  oonjuge  Jamij  nepteque  Eleanaraf 
sub  hoc  lapide  tenetur. 

At  bono  sis  animo  viator fortasse  vivas.     Superstes  Jacobo  viget  natus  Samuel^  sub  patrio 

lare  artes  exercens  patrias.     Si  quaeris  sanitatem,  hunc  adi.^' 

Englished. — Alas !  who  shall  now  retard  the  scythe  of  Death  P  James  Furdy,  at  the  bridge  of 
Twizell,  was  an  excellent  old  man,  although  not  exempt  from  diseases. 

He  died  on  the  4th  day  of  December,  A.  D.  1752,  aged  81  years,  and,  together  with  Jane  his 
wife,  and  Eleanor  his  grand-daughter,  lies  under  this  stone. 

But,  passenger,  if  thou  hast  a  good  heart — perhaps  thou  mayest  live.  Samuel  the  son  of  James 
survives,  and  is  healthy,  exercising  the  profession  of  his  father,  under  his  paternal  roof.     If  thou 

seekest  health,  go  thither. 

* 

In  1549)  on  an  incursion  of  the  French  auxiliaries  into  England,  they  took  the 
castle  of  COTnhill,  described  as  an  old  house  of  considerable  strength,  and  much  booty- 
was  gained.  The  fort  tower,  surrounded  with  a  ditch,  near  the  bridge,  opposite  to 
Linnel-house,  is  probably  part  of  the  retmains.  It  is  called  Castle-stone-nick,  and 
seems  well  situated  for  the  defence  of  the  bridge.* 

liam  de  Clavering.     It  was  held  of  the  bishop  of  Durham  by  half  a  knight's  fee,  and  doing  suit  and  service 

to  his  lordship's  court  at  Norham^  and  paying  castle  rent^  vis.  twenty  shillings  per  annum.    The  Claverings 

continued^  for  several  generations,  owners  of  this  manor. 

• 
*  Coldstream  parish  lies  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tweed.    It  was  anciently  called  Lennal,  from  the  Bri* 

tish,  Llyn,  a  pool^  and  the  Saxon,  Hal,  signifying  a  large  house.    The  Lennal  still  forms  a  pool  where  the 

Kirktown  stood.    Coldstream  is  beautifully  seated  below  the  influx  of  the  Leet  into  the  Tweed.    Here  was 

one  of  the  richest  monastries  in  Scotland,  belonging  to  the  Cistertian  mms,  founded  by  Cospabrick,  the 


S40  NORHAMSHIRE. 

Near  to  the  church,  in  a  wood,  is  a  medidnal  spring,  detdicated  to  St.  Hden.  It  ia 
of  a  ferruginous  taste,  not  unpleasant,  and  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  efficacy  in  cases 
of  inveterate  stubborn  scurvies,  and  the  graveL  A  neat  cold  bath  was  erected  near 
it  several  years  ago,  but  of  late  it  has  been  much  neglected.  • 

The  street,  from  the*church,  forms  a  wide  avenue,  at  the  foot  of  which  stands  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  Collingwood  family.  It  is  an  old  house,  built  in  form  of  a  cross, 
on  the  top  of  a  fine  terraced  lawn,  from  which  there  is  a  delightful  view  of  the  fertile 
vales  below,  through  which  winds  the  Tweed,  "  the  fairest  (jaledonian  flood,*'  and  of 
the  surrounding  country,  adorned  with  ancient  structures  and  handsome  modem 
seats,  the  whole  bounded  by  a  semicircular  range  of  hills.  The  bridge  over  the 
Tweed  ^ere  has  six  arches,  and  was  built  in  the  year  1763. 

The  records  are  very  barren  of  information  relative  to  this  manor.  Robert  Grey 
de  Comhall,  died  1  king  Edward  I.  seized  of  a  capital  messuage,  and  sixty  acres  of 
land,  with  divers  cottages,  half  a  mill,  and  half  of  the  fishery  of  Comhall,  which  he 
held  of  the  lord  bishop  in  capite,  bv  homage,  ward,  and  marriage,  at  74*.  rent.  In 
the  25th  year  of  bishop  Hatfield,  the  lands  of  the  Greys  in  Comhill,  came  into  the 
possession  of  Robert  Swinhowe,  in  right  of  his  mother  Maria,  daughter  and  heir  of 
Robert  Grey.  The  family  of  the  Herons  also  had  considerable  property  at  Comhill. 
The  principal  proprietors  at  present  are  the  Collingwoods  and  Blakes. 

About  four  or  five  hundred  yards  south-east  from  Cornhill  is  a  most  remarkable 
encampment.  It  has  been  large  and  spacious,  and  consisted  of  a  variety  of  military 
works.  It  was  defended  by  ranges  of  terraced  liills,  and  a  morass  at  several  angles 
and  sides  of  the  hills,    Mr.  WalSs  images,  that  many  of  these  conical  eminences 

last  of  his  name^  and  Derden  his  countess.  This  nobleman  died  in  the  year  1116.  When  the  religious  esta* 
blishments  were  annexed  to  the  crown,  and  seized  by  the  nobles,  James  VI.  granted  the  possessions  of  this 
monastry  to  Sir  John  Hamilton^  the  third  son  of  the  first  earl  of  Haddington.  Few  vestiges  of  the  abbacy 
remain.  Before  general  Monck  marched  into  England  to  restore  the  royal  family,  he  made  Coldstream  his 
head-quarters,  and  raised  that  body  of  men  which,  being  in  succession  recruited,  has  ever  since  been  called 
the  Coldstream  Regiment  of  Guards.  In  this  district^  an  old  custom  is  still  in  some  measure  observed.  The 
fair  spinsters  give  much  of  their  leisure  time  to  the  spinning  of  blankets  for  their  wedding  portion.  On  the 
nuptial  night,  the  whole  stock  of  virgin-industry  is  placed  on  the  bed.  ''A  friend  of  mine/'  says  Mr.  Pen- 
nant,  ''  has,  on  such  an  occasion,  counted  not  fewer  than  ten,  thick  and  heavy.  Was  the  Penelope,  who 
owned  them,  forsaken  by  her  Ulysses,  she  never  could  complain,  like  the  Grecian  spouse,  Non  ego  deserio 
Jacuissemfrigido  lecto  f"  Mr.  Newte  (Tour  in  England  and  Scotland,  1791)  says,  that  it  is  customary  for  the 
gentlemen  who  live  near  the  Tweed  to  entertain  their  neighbours  and  friends  with  a  Fete  Champetre,  which 
they  call  giving  ''a  kettle  of  fish"  Tents  or  marquees  are  fixed  near  the  flowery  banks  of  the  river,  or  some 
grassy  plain ;  a  fire  is  kindled,  and  live  salmon  thrown  into  the  boiling  kettles.  The  fish,  thus  prepared,  is 
very  firm,  and  accounted  most  delicious  food.  Every  thing  in  season  is  added  to  furnish  a  luxuriant  r^uist ; 
and  wine,  music,  and  dancing  on  the  green,  steal  one  day  from  the  plodding  cares,  or  more  insupportable 
languor  of  mortals.  The  simple  rustics  around  are  admitted  in  due  place  and  order  to  this  rural  banquet^ 
and  all  nature  wears  the  countenance  of  joy  and  gladness.  The  English  ladies  and  gentlemen  cross  the 
Tweed  in  boats  to  attend  the  annual  feast  of  their  Scottish  neighbours;  and  the  Scottish  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, in  like  manner,  pay  due  respect,  on  similar  occasions,  to  their  neighbours  in  England.  How  different 
this  humane  and  happy  intercourse  from  the  meetings  of  the  Scotch  and  English  in  former  Iwes^  whether 
Aecidental  or  for  the  express  purpose  of  settling  disputes. 


NOBHAM.  841 

were  exploiatory  aad  sepulchral;  and  that  the  hdlows  formed  by  taldng  the  earth 
for  raising  them  were  filled  with  water.  ,  They  were,  he  adds,  the  funeral  repositories 
of  great  chieftains,  the  common  men  being  buried  without  any  such  distinction ; 
many  of  thdr  remains  were  dug  up  on  the  rid^e  of  an  adjoii^xig  hill,  called  Bleak 
Lands.  Mr.  Hutchinson  dissents  from  this  opimon,  but  without  assigning  any  reason 
for  so  doing.  Indeed,  he  candidly  acknowledges  that  his  judgment  was  rather  con- 
founded as  to  the  antiquity  of  the  place*  Mr.  Hodgson  affirms,  that  the  place  is 
"  altogether  so  destitute  of  every  thing  like  military  strength,  and  so  finely  executed, 
as  to  make  us  believe  they  have  been  of  an  agricultural  nature ;  perhaps  the  garden 
of  some  peaceable  monarch  in  an  obscure  period  of  the  history  of  our  county.  Jose- 
phus  intimates  that  most  of  the  husbandry  of  the  Jews  was  of  this  nature.  The  ter- 
races near  Branxton,  mentioned  by  Pennant,  aore  perhaps  of  a  similar  kind."  But  it 
would  be  difficult  to  point  out  the  probable  era  when  a  king  in  this  district  possessed 
taste,  security,  and  leisure  sufficient  for  the  formation  of  ornamental  gardens.  Per- 
haps these  terraiees  and  ditches  may  with  propriety  be  attributed  to  the  Saxons,  at  an 
eany  period  of  their  ascendancy  in  Northumberland.  The  military  earth-works  of 
this  people  are  generally  far  from  strong,  and  incline  to  a  circular  form ;  but  a  great 
irregularity  of  lorm  is  observably  in  the  defensive  outlines  of  their  camps.  They 
seized  every  advantage  which  the  nature  of  the  ground  offered,  and  effected  altera- 
tions suited  to  their  own  modes  of  warfare.  The  small  terraced  hills,  or  fortlets, 
which  sur]x>und  this  supposed  encampment,  would  certainly  add  to  its  security,  nor 
are  they  inconsistent  with  the  general  diaracter  of  military  vestiges  usually  ascribed 
to  the  Anglo-Saxons. 

H£TON  Castle  is  situate  about  thxee  miles  east  by  north  from  Comhill,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river  TilL  It  was  formerly  the  possession  and  seat  of  the  ancient 
family  of  the  Greys.  The  castle  is  of  a  square  form,  and  very  strong,  from  its  situa- 
tion on  the  steep  banks  of  the  TiU.  On  the  west  side  it  had  an  area,  or  court,  called 
the  lA(m's  Court  It  sustained  a  siege  by  the  Scotch  before  the  battle  of  Flodden- 
field.  It  is  now  entirely  demolished,  except  one  apartment  90  feet  in  length,  which 
is  vaulted,  and  in  which  100  horse  might  stand ;  the  lower  part  is  used  for  stables  and 
stands  for  cattle,  and  above  the  vaults  there  is  a  granary.  A  sword  was  found  here  a 
few  years  ago  that  probably  belonged  to  some  superior  personage,  from  the  hilt  being 
wrapped  with  gold  twist,  and  a  small  shield  of  silver  imaid  on  each  side  of  the  blade, 
with  a  cross  thereon. 

By  a  survey  taken  in  the  time  of  queen  Elizabeth,  the  castle  of  Heton  is  described 
in  the  following  manner : — **  This  castell  of  Heton  hath  bene  a  pleasaunt  and  beauti- 
f ull  beuilding,  in  mannor  square,  with  goodlie  towers  and  turretts,  as  yet  remaininge, 
the  Jjyon's  Tower  on  the  west  side  thair  of  the  south  coyne  or  comer,  and  on  tlte 
northe  syde  or  pairte  are  mention  of  a  vawlte  that  a  hondreth  horse  may  stande  in 
with  a  number  of  shelles  and  welles,  that  haithe  been  glorious  bewldinges  and  how- 
singe,  now  ruinowse,  and  all  in  decaie."  Heton  at  present  consists  of  only  one  farm** 
hold  and  a  few  cottages. 

This  manor  was  hdd,  in  Edward  I.'s  reign,  by  William  de  Eton,  and,  in  the  next 
reign,  by  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  captain  of  Norham  castle  in  the  reign  oif  king  Edward 

VOL.  I.  4  R 


842  NORHAMSHIRE. 

II, ;  by  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  his  son,  captain  of  the  same  castle  in  the  reign  of  king' 
Edward  III.  taken  prisoner  in  too  eager  and  forward  a  pursuit  of  the  Scots,  1855  j 
by  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  a  representative  in  parliament  for  Northumberland,  1  king 
Henry  IV.  and  captain  of  Wark  castle.  He  was  in  great  favour  with  king  Henry 
y.  the  glory  and  pride  of  the  English  nation,  and  the  scourge  of  France,  for  conspir- 
ing whose  death  he  was  executed.  Heton  afterwards  came  into  the  possession  of  Sir 
John  Grey,  who,  with  kin^  Henry  VI.  Henry  lord  Percy,  the  earl  of  Westmoreland, 
and  others,  was  invested  with  the  high  and  honourable  order  of  Knight  of  the  Garter 
by  the  duke  of  Bedford,  regent  of  England.  He  was  captain  of  the  castles  of  Wark 
and  Roxburgh ;  the  last  of  which  he  defended  with  an  eminent  courage  for  20  days, 
16  king  Henry  VI.  in  the  year  1486,  a^nst  the  forces  of  James,  king  of  Scotland, 
till  the  arrival  of  succours  under  Henry  Fercy,  the  second  earl  of  Northumberland,  on 
the  sight  of  which  the  Scots  fled  with  precipitation ;  many  of  them  were  slain  and  taken 
prisoners.  He  was  appointed  captain  of  Bambrough  castle  by  the  house  of  Lancaster, 
in  which  he  was  taken  ]>risoner  after  his  retreat  from  the  battle  of  Hexham,  and  be- 
headed at  Doncaster,  his  sword  being  first  broke  over  his  head,  &c.  for  br^iking  his 
oath  of  fealty  to  the  house  of  York.  Ip  the  reign  of  king  Henry  VIII.  it  belonged 
to  Sir  Edward  Grey,  and  afterwards  to  William  lord  Grey,  of  Wark.  It  is  now  in 
the  possession  of  the  earl  of  Tankerville. 

Grindon,  a  small  village,  consisting  of  one  farmhold  and  a  few  cottages,  stands  at 
a  little  distance  from  Heton.  The  family  of  Grendon  held  the  villa  of  Old  Grendon 
of  the  Herons,  rendering  two  shillings  in  lieu  of  all  services.  In  the  time  of  bishop 
Langley,  who  came  to  the  see  in  1406,  it  was  of  no  value  on  account  of  the  devasta- 
tion of  the  Scotch.  The  Ildertons  also  held  portions  of  land  in  Grindon  Rigg ;  where 
is  an  old  mansion-house :  the  estate  belongs  to  Lord  Lisbume. 

In  the  5th  of  queen  Mary,  1558,  a  party  of  about  a  thousand  Scottish  horse,  accom- 
panied by  some  footmen,  who  were  either  Frenchmen,  or  commanded  by  French 
officers,  entered  Northumberland.  They  began  to  plunder  and  bmn  the  country ; 
but  at  Grindon  they  were  opposed  by  a  strong  body  of  English  horse,  under  the  earl 
of  Northumberland,  and  his  brother  Sir  Henry  Fercy,  who  obliged  them  to  retire 
with  loss :  but  after  the  Scotch  had  recrossed  the  Tweed,  they  formed  into  so  com- 
pact a  body,  that  the  Northumbrians  could  make  no  impression  upon  them.  The 
mterest  of  £  60  was  given  by  some  person  unknown  to  the  ^oor  of  this  place.  In 
1787>  the  money  was  vested  m  the  hounds  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Davison,  and  produced  £8 
per  annum.* 

DtJDDO  lies  on  the  south6ni  extremity  of  Norhamshire,  ten  miles  and  a  half  north 
by  west  from  Wooler.  It  is  a  small  village,  consisting  of  two  farmholds  and  a  few 
cottages  for  labourers  and  colliers,  situate  on  the  north-east  declivity  of  a  hill,  on  the 
rocky  summit  of  which  stands  the  ruins  of  Duddo  tower.  A  vault,  which  has  been 
a  safe-hold  for  cattle,  forms  the  principal  remains.    About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the 

*  Abstract  of  Retoras  of  ChariUble  Donations  in  the  County  of  Durhaib,  tdadle  ill  1787-1788,  and  printed 
by  order  of  the  house  of  commons  in  1816. 


NORIJAM.  S4S 

nortih-west  of  the  village  are  several  rude  stones  or  pillars,  in  commemoration  of  the 
victory  at  Grindon,  mentioned  above.  They  are  placed  on  the  summit  of  an  emi- 
nence, in  a  circular  order,  forming  an  area  of  ten  yards  diameter.  The  stones  are  six 
in  number, — ^the  largest  is  about  eight  feet  in  height :  they  are  now  called  *'  Duddo 
stones."  The  manor  of  Duddo  was  anciently  held  by  the  Stiyvelings,  in  dringage, 
rendering  seven  marks  rent.  In  1S91>  the  estate  descended  to  W  illiam  de  Clavering, 
in  tail :  but  afterwards  it  formed  part  of  the  possessions  of  the  Greys. 

Felkington  is  a  small  village,  consisting  of  two  farmholds  and  a  few  cottages. 
This  manor  formed  part  of  the  large  possessions  of  the  Greys.  The  families  of  the 
Cliffords  and  Hdertons  held  parcel  of  land  here  of  the  Greys.  Felkington  is  now 
the  estate  of  Mr.  Fenwick  of  Sandy-bank. 

Shoreswood  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Felkington,  and  is  a  straggling  vil- 
laffe,  occupied  by  colliers  and  labourers ;  and  Thornton  is  situated  on  the  south 
side  of  the  road  leading  from  Berwick  to  Comhill,  and  is  distant  neiBU'ly  five  miles 
south-west  from  the  former  place.  It  is  a  small  village,  mostly  occupied  by  farmers' 
labourers.  This  was  the  manor  and  place  of  residence  of  a  family  of  the  name  of 
Heron ;  but  was  frequently  wasted  in  the  border  wars.  It  now  belongs  to  the  trus- 
tees of  lord  Crewe's  charity.  At  Longridge,  near  this  place,  is  a  pleasant  mansion- 
house,  belonging  to  Daniel  Orde,  esq.  who  is  also  proprietor  of  Loan-end,  a  small 
adjacent  village  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed. 

HoRNCLiFFE  is  a  small  village,  situate  on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed,  about  four 
miles  west  from  Tweedmouth.  An  elegant  mansion-house  was  lately  built  at  the 
east  end  of  the  village,  by  William  Alder,  esq.  It  stands  on  an  elevated  situation^ 
and  commands  a  fine  pros])ect,  particularly  of  the  rich  and  fertile  plain  called  the 
Merse.  The  scenery  along  the  luxuriant  banks  of  the  Tweed  derives  much  additional 
richness  and  ornament  from  the  rising  plantations  belonging  to  Sir  Francis  Blake. 

It  deserves  to  be  repeated,  that  this  shire  exhibits  the  highest  state  of  cultivation. 
Indeed,  the  late  president  of  the  board  of  agriculture  observes,  on  the  authority  ef 
the  celebrated  Mr.  Marshall,  that  the  best  culnvators  and  the  most  intelligent  farmers 
of  the  kingdom  are  those  who  practise  the  drill  system  of  husbandry  on  Tweedside. 
The  excellent  practice  of  transplanting  Kutar-baga  was  very  early  adopted  here.  The 
usual  produce  of  turnips  is  from  ID  to  20  tons  per  acre,  and  upwards.  Potatoes  yield 
from  nve  to  ei^ht  tons  per  acre,  and,  as  Mr.  William  Scott  observes,  never  fail  to 
leave  the  land  m  a  suitable  condition  for  wheat  crops.  The  same  gentleman  has 
found  that  potatoes,  in  general,  produce  as  abundant  crops  from  manure,  little  altered 
from  dry  straw  or  ropes  of  stacks,  as  from  the  best  manure  that  can  be  used.* 

*  Befim  dosing  the  descriptioii  of  the  North  Bishopric,  the  editor  is  happy  to  present  the  following  ex- 
tracts from  an  interesting  article  on  the  geology  of  Holy  Island,  by  Mr.  N.  J.  Winch,  and  published  in  the 
Annals  of  Philosophy  for  December^  ISiS,  with  an  illustrative  map. 

Holy  Island,  in  a  geological  point  of  view,  ''partakes  of  the  nature  of  the  neighbouring  district,  or  is  in- 
dttded  in  the  encrinal  limestone  formation,  whidi  tiaverses  England  from  the  vicinity  of  Tweed  to  Derby- 


BCDXiUrOTOnSHIKS. 

rpHIS  district  is  a  parish  in  Chester  Ward  in  the  county  of  Durham,  and  is  situate 

at  the  scaith-east  corner  of  Castle  Ward  in  Northiixnberland,  bounded  on  the  east 

by  the  German  Ocean,  and  on  the  north  and  south  by  the  rivers  Wansbeck  aud 

Blyth,  and  contams  191»000  acres,  or  about  30  square  miles.    This  also  was  part  of 

shire.  The  rocky  beds^  associated  with  the  limestone^  consist  of  shale  or  slate  clay  and  red  and  white 
MDdstone:  their  dip  to  south-east*  Basalt,  in  an  imconfonnable  position^  also  occurs;  and  these  are  in  part 
covered  with  diluvium,  and  in  part  with  sand  drifled  from  the  shoals  lying  to  the  north.  That  the  latter 
forms  but  a  superficial  covering  to  the  peninsula  called  the  Snook,  is  evinced  by  a  pit  having  been  sunk 
through  it  in  search  of  coal.  To  what  depth  the  miners  penetrated  I  Could  not  learn ;  but  fragments  of  bi- 
tuminous shale,  scattered  about,  served  to  prove  the  nature  of  the  substratum.  While  on  the  subject  of  al- 
luvium, it  may  be  right  to  notice,  that  die  long  shoal^  stretching  from  Goswick  towards  the  north  of  the 
island,  consists  chiefly  of  grey  wacke  pebbles,  washed  down  from  the  mountains  of  Selkirkshire,  and  depo- 
sited in  their  present  situation  by  the  current  of  the  Tweed.  For  ibis  information  I  am  indebted  to  a  friend 
(Matthew  Cully,  esq.  of  Akeld)  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  geology  of  the  Bordsr.  The  dihtvium 
covering  the  southern  division  of  the  island  constitutes  a  tolerably  fertile  soil,  though  sand  appears  to  prsdD« 
minate ;  mixed  throughout  it  are  water- worn  masses  and  boulders  of  granite,  porphyry,  syenite,  grey  wacke, 
encrinal  limestone,  basalt,  and  sandstone,  the  produce  of  distant  mountains,  a»  well  as  of  its  own  rodu," 

Mr.  W.  next  proceeds  to  examine  in  detail  the  rocks  forming  the  cliffs  and  beach  of  this  fiuwNis  islwid. 
**  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  harbour,  a  mass  of  basalt  rises  in  irregular  columns  to  the  hei^t  of  105  feet, 
and  on  these  stand  the  castle.  The  basalt  is  not  a  dyke,  protruding  above  ground,  for  it  rests  on  limestone 
and  shale.  This  is  the  most  striking  feature  in  the  island.  The  coves  are  recesses,  hollowed  out  of  the  soft 
sandstone  of  the  perpendicular  cliffs  by  the  action  of  the  sea  and  the  weather;  their  harder  covering  having 
"vritfastood  these  powerful  agents.  Within  the  line  of  sand  covering  the  Snook,  an  extensive  quarry  has  been 
worked  in  fine-grained  white  micacious  sandstone.  The  coal  pit  here,  it  is  said,  was  abandoned  because  the 
coal  penetrated  to  was  only  14  inches  in  thickness.  The  small  lough  on  this  island  is  the  occasional  resort  of 
wild  swans,  geese,  widgeons,  seals,  &c.  The  wikl  duck  is  here  a  native,  and  the  domesticated  sheldrake  may 
be  seen  in  company  with  the  tame  ducks.  The  larger  seal  inhabits  the  rocks  of  the  Staples  and  Fams,  and 
the  lesser  seal  the  shoals  of  Lindisfam."  From  the  little  alteration  that  seems  to  have  taken  place  cm  the 
islands  and  coast  of  Northumberland,  Mr.  W.  infers  that  the  Fam  islands  and  Staples  must  have  been  divided 
from  the  main  land  by  the  agency  of  a  temporary  current  of  water,  sufficiently  strong  to  break  up  and  remove 
the  adjoining  strata  of  limestone,  shale,  and  sandstone,  but  not  powerful  enough  to  destroy  the  more  obd  orate 
masses  of  basalt,  which  have  been  thus  left  in  their  present  isolated  situations.  It  may  be  proper  to  add  to 
this  sketch,  that  the  bar  of  the  harbour  has  eight  feet  water  at  low  water,  and  twenty-two  feet  at  high  water, 
during  spring  tides. 

H.  C.  Selby,  esq.  is  the  principal  proprietor  ijf  Holy  Island,  and  possesses  tito  old  abbey ;  but  there  are 
many  other  lesser  f^holders  there.  At  the  late  contested  electian  fbr  the  lepvesentation  of  the  oaoaty  of 
Durham,  twenty-five  persons  voted  for  f)reeholds  held  in  this  island.  €hi  eiaminiog  the  aooounis  of  the 
treasurer  of  the  county  of  Durham,  it  does  not  appear  that  any  eoiinty-rates  are  received  fima  Idandehift  or 
'Norhamshire  j  but  these  distiiets  keep  their  own  bridgtes,  &cv  in  arepaif« 


BEDLINGTON.  845 

0 
/ 

the  territories  called  The  Patrimony  qfSt.  Cuthhert.  Cutheard,  the  second  bishop  of 
Chester,  purchased  this  district  out  of  the  funds  of  St.  Cuthhert,  and  gave  it  to  the 
see,  by  which  means  it  was  annexed  in  jurisdiction  to  the  body  of  the  county  pala- 
tine, lying  between  Tyne  and  Tees.  Cutheard  held  the  see  fifteen  years,  and  died  in 
915 ;  so  mat  the  acquisition  of  Bedlingtoh  is  placed  about  the  beginning  *of  the  tenth 
century".  It  anciently  had  courts  and  officers  of  justice  within  its  own  limits,  ap- 
pointed under  commission  from  the  bishop  of  Durham,  as  well  justices,  sheriiFs, 
escheators,  as  coroners  and  all  other  officers  of  justice.  The  statute  made  in  the  27th 
year  of  king  Henry  VIII,  divested  the  jpalatine  of  those  royal  franchises,  and  resumed 
the  same  to  the  crown. 

The  first  owner  of  lands  in  Bedlington,  named  in  the  records,  is  John,  son  of  John 
Elliott,  who  held  of  the  lord  bishop  immediaiem^  by,  fealty  and  7^.  4td.  rent.  A  family 
of  the  name  of  Hertford  also  held  lands  here ;  but  the  chief  part  of  the  inhabitants 
held  by  servile  tenures.  An  ancient  offering  to  the  hospital  of  St.  Giles,  in  Durham, 
of  a  thrave  of  com  out  of  every  plough  land  for  the  relief  of  pilgrims,  about  the  time 
of  king  Richard  II.  was  granted  by  the  land-owners,  payable  on  the  feast  of  St.  Mi- 
ehaeL  It  was  afterwards  commuted  for  the  payment  of  nine  shillings  in  money, 
within  fifteen  days  after  the  feast  of  St.  Michael. 

In  the  year  1659,  when  the  lands  belonging  to  the  see  of  Durham  were  put  up  to 
sale  b^  the  parliament,  this  manor,  with  Choppington  farm,  were  purchased  by  Uo* 
bert  Fen  wick,  esq.  member  for  Northumberland  1654,  for  £1296.  It  is  said,  that,  at 
the  restoration,  the  purchasers  of  the  church  lands  offisred  the  king  the  sum  of 
£500,000  to  confirm  their  right  for  ninety^-nine  years,  on  payment  of  the  old  rents  tq 
the  bishops  and  ola*gy ;  which  oSer  his  majesty  was  so  far  from  complying  with, 
that  he  gnmted  a  Qowwssion  of  inquiry  touching  such  estates, 

BEDLINGTON, 

This  town  stands  in  a  pleasant  elevated  situation,  about  4^  miles  south-east  from 
Morpeth.  It  consists  principally  of  one  long  and  wide  street,  which  forms  a  kind  of 
sloping  avenue  to  the  river  Blyth,  which  glides  past  it  between  two  steep  banks. 
The  churdbi  is  a  neat  ancient  structure,  covered  with  lead,  with  a  small  old  tower ; 
but  the  late  repairs  and  additions  being  executed  in  a  modem  style,  the  simplicity 
and  uniformity  of  the  building  are  destroyed.*  The  rose-bushes,  &c,  that  are  care- 
fully and  affectionately  planted  around  the  graves  in  this  church-yard,  SM'e  pleasing 
indications  of  the  taste  and  tenderness  of  the  inhabitants.  The  church  was  appropri- 
ated by  Nic.  de  Farnham,  bishop  of  Durham,  to  the  priory  and  convent  of  Durham, 
about  the  year  1342  (when  Prior  de  Mals^imby  was  beginning  a  new  febric  there), 

*  On  March  lOth^  ISlS,  when  the  workmen  were  digging  the  foundation  of  a  circular  addition  to  the 
north  side  of  the  church,  they  discovered  three  monumental  stones,  on  which  were  cut  out  a  sword,  the  cross 
decorated  with  ribbons,  and  human  figures.  On  one  stone  is  inscribed,  ^'  Orapranobu"  The  bones  of  a 
human  being  were  also  found  dose  to  the  buttress  of  the  steeple.  They  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of 
Cuthbert  Watson,  a  noted  Somnambulist  On  February  14th,  l669#  he  rose  in  his  sleep,  and,  wandering  to 
the  church,  climbed  up  the  buttress  on  th^  north  side  of  the  steeple.    A  persoii  passing  at  the  tim^^  being 

VOL.  I,  ■  4  S 


HB  BEDLINGTOKSHniE. 

ibr  its  8up][k)H;.  It  is  dedicated  to  8t.  Cuthbdrt,  for  the  monks  of  Doiiimii,  in  their 
iBight  to  Lindisfam,  before  the  arms  of  the  Conqueror,  with  the  body  of  St  Cndi^ 
bert^  rested  all  night  at  Bedlington.  Mr.  R.  Kykke,  vicar^eneral  in  die  year  1469, 
Mquestered  the  profits  of  BedHngtoti  church  for  the  many  defects  and  decays  in  tiie 
mansion-hotkse  of  the  vicarage,  and  houses  and  buildings  of  the  same,  and  appointed 
Thomas  Fleming,  baili£P  of  the  liberty  of  Bedlin'gton,  keeper  of  the  sequestration. 

An  the  inhabitants  belong  to  the  established  church,  except  a  smaU  oongr^tjon 
of  Presbyterians  and  a  few  Methodists.  There  is  a  school  attadied  to  the  vicarage, 
in  which  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  &;c.  are  taught.  Besides  this,  there  are  three 
other  schools ;  and  both  the  dassics  and  the  mathematics  may  be  learned  here.  A 
boarding-school  for  ladies,  and  a  more  humble  school  for  poor  girls,  compose  the 
establishments  for  education.  Labourers  are  well  employed  and  tolerably  comfoarta- 
Ue  at  this  place.  There  is  a  garden  attached  to  almost  ev^  cottage  in  the  parish, 
and  which  is  usually  cultivated  with  emulous  industry.  There  are  two  benefit  sode^ 
ties  wbU  supported  here,  and  eight  public  houses  for  refireshment  and  amusement. 

In  the  poor^-rate  returns,  ordered  by  the  House  of  Commons  to  be  printed,  July  15, 
1822,  the  following  report  appears  under  the  head  ♦*  Bedlington." — **  It  is  expected  tfairt 
considerable  benefit  will  arise  from  the  appointment  of  select  vestries ;  as  thie  total 
expenditure  of  the  overseers  for  the  quarter  ending  SSdi  Jane,  1821,  was  £  171, 6#.  9d. 
whereas  the  former  year's  expenditure  was  at  tfce  rate  of  £285  per  quarter." 

The  Bedlington,  Wallsend,  and  Glebe  or  Barrington  see^^e  collieries,  have  latdv 
bfeen  commenced  near  Bedlington  with  great  spirit.  About  a  mile  ft(mi  tihe  town  is 
ohe  of  the  oldest  and  most  extensive  iron-works  in  this  part  of  the  kingdom.  The 
manufactory  is  built  near  the  river,  and  is  certainly  as  romantic  a  situation  as  can  be 
well  conceived.  The  banks  on  each  side  of  the  rivet  rise  to  a  mott  trttnendous  height, 
whilst  the  impatient  waters  hasten  rapidly  along  between  them,  and,  in  passing  over 
the  dam,  form  a  most  beautiful  cataract.  This  concern  belonged  to  the  Mailings  of 
Sunderland,  and  was  considered  very  unsuccessful.  Messrs.  Hawkes  and  Co.  of  Gates- 
head, afterwards  extended  and  carried  on  these  works,  whidi  are  at  {M-esent  the  pro- 
perty of  Messrs.  Biddulph,  Gordon,  and  Co.  London.  They  give  employment  to  a 
great  number  of  workmen,  who  manufecture,  bolt,  bar,  and  sheet  iron,  of  virious  de- 
scriptions, which  are  conveyed  from  the  works  down  the  river  in  lighters,  and  shipped 
at  Blvth  for  the  London  market.  These  works  have  been  recently  enlarged  by  many 
new  DuU^ngs.  Adjoining  is  a  school  on  the  Lancasterian  plan,  supported  dn^y  by 
the  Iron  Cdmpany. 

alarmed  ftr  his  safety,  called  to  poor  Watson^  who  awoke,  fell,  and  was  killed  on  the  spot    This  atory  is 
irerified  by  triiditkm,  the  parish  register,  and  the  date  out  upon  the  buttress,  called  '^  Watson's  Wake." 

In  a  field  adjoining  the  church-yard  stands  the  following  singular  tomb-stone,  of  the  date  A.  D.  ISOl, 
erected  by  the  present  vicar,  the  Rev.  H.  Coates,  to  the  memory  of  a  £ivourite  horse  called  WheatUy:'^ 

*'  Steady  the  path  ordain'd  by  Nature^s  God, 

And  i¥ee  from  human  vices,  WheaUey  trod; 

Yet  hop'd  no  future  Kfb-^his  all  he  livU 

The  turf  he  gras'd  his  parting  breath  tecef  Vd, 

And  now  protects  his  bones  :-^irtttrb  ifaem  Mt, 

Bttt  let  one  fidthfbl  horse  respected  rot" 


B3EI>LIirGT0N,  W7 

NoBTH  Blyth  Stands  <m  a  pemnsidii  at  ^  jovtiv-^Mt  oorn^r  oi  B^Sifimg^nsbJX^n 
and  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  This  kriUage  was  fcirmerly  ^Eninont  for  it$  ^t-pwa 
and  an  extensive  potterjr,  hoth  of  which  are  nc^  totally  abandpned.  It  oopsist$  of 
about  twelve  dwdling  houses  and  a  publk  houses  principally  pecupied  by  s^am^n, 
ThQ  late  Mr.  Heniy  Debord  formed  a  shjp-building  yard  at  the  Hiffh  Pans,  whw> 
vessels  are  still  occasionally  built.  At  the  JJnk  End,  which  foims  the  extremity  of 
the  peninsukt,  there  are  several  dwelling  houses,  including  two  public  houses, 
chiefly  inhafoiited  by  fishermen  and  pilots:  Me«t  of  the  opals  that  are  curought  down 
tlie  river  in  lighters  are  shipped  at  the  Link  End.  Both  this  pi^ce  and  Nprth  !Qlyt4) 
belong  to  Sir  M.  W.  Ridley,  hart,  who  has,  sinee  he  acquired  legal  possession  of  this 
property,  built .  several  cottages,  repaired  the  roads,  and  eifected  many  oth^r  great 
minrovements.  The  bishops  anciently  exercised  all  the  royal  ft»nchises  ov«:  the  pprt 
ana  river  of  Blyth;  and  their  leases  comprehend  anchorage,  beaogutiage^  pl^^l^ag^t 
wharfage,  bdlast  quays  and  wastes  befcwean  the  high  and  low  water  marks,  an4  aU 
die  wrecks  of  the  sea  on  the  coast.  F^rt  of  thdse  dsims  were,  however,  lately  dis* 
puted  by  Sir  M.  W.  Ridley  ;  but  a  compromise  took  pW  b^ore  the  subject  iu)4^»> 
went  a  legal  discussion. 

A  little  to  the  northeast  of  North  Blyth  are  a  large  dwtar  of  roc^s,  called  tlif 
Rowcars,  which  appear  at  low  water  mark,  though  there  ar?  five  j^athomp  wal^  clp^f 
to  the  ledge. 

Cambois,  consisting  of  sixteen  dweBing  houses,  incl^iding  a  public  house,  is  situate 
at  the  north-east  extremity  of  the  ^re,  at  the  moutibi  of  the  river  Wansbecfe,  3^4 
about  7^  miles  east  by  south  from  Morpeth.  It  is  occasionajAy  visited  by  small  ciia^ 
and  the  exports  consist  chiefly  of  com,  timber,  and  grindstones.  This  little  port  has 
keen  lately  mu^  improrved  by  the  proprietor.  Sir  M.  W,  Ri^y,  Cambois  gave 
name  to  a  resident  family,  for  a  Ridiard  'Cambbouse  is  IIl^ntioned  in  the  reopr^  sp. 
early  as  bishop  Hatfield's  time.  Ralph  de  Blyfigdbam  was  also  possessed  of  a  poartipn 
of  the  manor,  and  one  souith  nort  of  the  fishery  of  Wansbeck*  By  an  inquisition^ 
taken  on  the  death  of  Ralph  ean  of  Wartnarfiknd,  M  bjshop  La^^ley,  it  is  stated  tha^ 
he  4ied  seized  of  the  maner  of  CSambeis  <atod  ChopWE^toia^  a  fQOiety  of  Wf^st  Sleekr 
bum,  and  a  messuage  in  Nederton,  called  Strangale  jPlace^  which  he  held  of  the  bishop 
in  eapbe  hy  military  serviee  and  suit  at  eeurt  IBh  grand^op«  .Ralphs  the  mfi  of  Jolm 
Nevin  <who  died  2  Irnig  Henry  VI.  A.  T).  14flS)>  ^iK^  his  :h^. 

About  hailf  a  mile  to  the  south-east  of  t3be  Wansbeck  is  a^luflter  of  ro^ks  i^^s^le^ 
Cambois  Ridge.  The  tops  of  the  rocks  ace  drv  at  low  watfar ;  but  as  1;his  pail  ^  th^ 
coast  is  little  frequented,  unless  »by  smdl  vessels  which  §nter  the  p^  of  Cam\)Qi^,  the 
danger  is  much  less  than  it  would  otherwise  be. 

The  banks  of  the  Wansbeck  is  beautifully  clothed  with  wood ;  and  there  are  some 
fine  plantations  aear  «S%«<^p«aa^  above  tbre^  miks  west  &ov^  Qfjoiypis.  The  river  is 
navigable  for  lighters  up  to  Sheepwash  bridge,  above  which  is  a  warren-head,  formed 
for  the  convenience  of  the  mill. 

Choppinoton,  or  Chabykton,  lies  at  a  short  distance  west  from  Cambois,  and 
four  miles  east  by  south  from  Morpeth.    It  is  a  small  village,  and  gives  name  to  a 


S4S  BEDLINGTONSHmE. 

_  • 

township.  The  first  proprietor  of  Cboppingtcoi  was  Hugo  de  Hexham,  of  Newcastle 
upon  Tyne,  who  held  the  manor  of  the  lord  bishop  in  capite,  by  fealty  and  six  marks 
rent.  The  family  of  Wilkinson,  of  Wystoe,  also  held  lands  at  Choppingtoii  and 
Cambois.  South  and  North  Chof^ington  now  belong  to  Mr.  Cook  ana  Mr.  Clarke^ 
There  is  a  colliery  winning  here.  The  Chwie  JW  is  a  small  hamlet,  consisting  of  ax 
houses,  including  a  public  house. 

West  Sleekburn  is  situate  near  the  bum  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  at  a 
shc»t  £stance  from  Choppington,  and  about  six  miles  east-south-east  froan  Morpeth. 
William  de  Denum  is  mentioned  in  the  records  as  holding  half  of  the  manor  of  W  est 
Sleekbvim,  of  the  lord  bishop  in  capite,  joinliy  with  Isabella  his  wife,  by  feal^,  and 
£4,  lOs^  rent  paid  at  the  exchequer:  he  also  held  a  third  part  of  the  manor  of  Gam- 
bols, by  fealtv,  and  30«.  rent,  doing- suit  at  three  courts  at  Bedlyngton,  and  grinding 
hia  hQusehold  com  at  the  bishop's  mill  at  Bedlyngton,  at  a  sixteenui  moLctuie.  Two 
farms  here  belong  to  Miss  Simpson,  sister4n4aw  to  lord  BaVensworth.  M.  Long^ 
ridge,  esq.  holds  a  farm  here  of  the  bishop  of  I>urham,  upon  which  a  convenient 
farmstead  has  just  been  built.  Mr.  Watson  of  Ashington  is  ^  proprietor  of  another 
farm  at  this  place.  At  the  distance  of  half  a  miHe  is  East  Sle^^kbubn,  a  small  \Qr 
lage,  Qonsisting  of  a  few  farmholds  wd  cottages  for  labourers^ 

Hepscot  is  a  small  village  on  the  border  of  the  shire.  It  consists  of  seventeen 
dwelling-houses,  and  a  smau  neat  hall  belonging  to  Richard  Wilson,  esq.  Except 
Field-house  farm,  which  belongs  to  this  gentleman,  all  the  adjoining  country  is  the 
property  of  lord  C^Usle, 

Nedirton,  or  Netherton,  is  situate  at  a  short  distance  west  from  Bedlington. 
This  manor  anciently  gave  name  to  a  resident  family,  but  the  estates  held  by  the 
Nedirtons  were  but  small.  Hugo  de  Hexham,  before  mentioned,  held  three  mes* 
suages  and  cxx  acres  of  land  and  4  of  meadow,  in  the  vill  of  Nedirton.  This  place  is 
now  the  property  of  lord  Carlisle,  and  consists  of  four  fSarmsteads,  and  a  few 
cottages  for  labourers  and  the  pitmen  employed  in  the  adjoining  hmd-sale  coUiay. 

Hartford  House,  erected  by  the  late  William  Burdon,  esq.  after  a  most  Aegant 
design  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Stokoe,  of  Newcastle,  arraiteot,  is  deUghtfuUy 
situate  at  the  southern  extremity  of  BedUngtonshire,  on  the  beautiful  and  picturesque 
banks  of  the  Blyth.  This  manor  paid  five-p«ice  farthing  eomage  to  the  abbey  of  St, 
Alban's.  A  memoir  of  the  late  owner  of  this  mansdoQ  will  appear  in  another  part  of 
this  work.* 

« 

*  ■ 

t  W9  fM^  oblige^  to  Mr.  Weddell^  of  BecQinj^toA,  teacher,  fat  smne  particukn  reliMve  to  tiii»  parish. 


1 


AN 


HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  VIEW 


OF  THE 


COUNTY   OF   NORTHUMBERLAND. 


(&  IL  X  » ID  A  ]L  X   l!fA]EI»« 

N  order  to  render  the  Topographical  View  of  Northumberland  dear 
and  conneqt^  it  \a  intended  to  describe  each  Ward  separately,  accord- 
ing to  its  lo<»d  situation^  .£(nd  to  distinguish  its  narts  afflre^ably  to  its 
ecclesiastical  and  dvil  divisions.  Each  parish  ana  parocnial  chapelry', 
with  its  several  townships  worthy  of  notice,  will  Tbe  described  in  the 
Ward  and  division^  where  the  church  stands.  The  rental,  poor-rates, 
number  of  houses,  and  population^  in  the  different  townships,  will  be  found  disposed 
in  the  preceding  tables,  This  arrangement,  it  is  conceived,  must  give  facility  to  any 
references  which  the  reader  miKy  be  pleased  to  make,  and  also  prevent  imnecessary 
repetitions. 

Glendale  Ward  derives  its  name  from  the  river  Glen,  which,  in  the  descriptive 
language  of  the  ancient  Britons,  signifies  a  deep  and  narrow  valley.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  south  by  Coquetdale  Ward ;  on  the  east  by  Bambrough  Ward ;  on  the  north 
by  Norhamshire  ana  Isk^^dshire ;  aRd  on  the  west  by  Scotland.  It  is,  upon  an  ave- 
rse, about  12  niiles  in  lengthy  and  10  miles  in  breadth ;  and  contains  21,300  acre9 
imder  tillage. 

The  rivers  are  the  Till  and  the  Glen,  The  latter  is  formed  by  the  College  and 
Beaumont  bums,  which,  uniting  at  Kirknewton,  takes  the  name  of  Glen.  On  the 
banks  of  the  Tweed,  which  separates  a  part  of  the  Ward  from  Scotland,  and  in  the 
yaUeys  of  the  Till  and  Glen,  the  soil  is  pretty  uniformly  of  a  sandy  or  gravellv  na- 
ture, and  is  frequently  incumbent  on  a  pebbly  substratum :  in  other  parts  the  landa 
are  cooler  and  more  retentive.  Both  coal  and  lime  abound  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Till ;  while  in  the  district  west  of  the  river  are  inexhaustibly  cwmtities  of  shell  marl^ 
and  brown,  red,  or  ^rey  whUistone.  We  have  frequenthr  afauded  to  the  extensive 
knowledge  and  superior  skill  which  tbe  farmers  of  tiua  Wai^  display  in  their  pipfes*- 

voi,.  !•  4  T 


350  GLENDALE  WARD—W.  t). 

sion.  Such,  indeed,  has  been  the  success  of  their  exertions,  that  landed  property  has, 
since  the  introduction  of  an  enlightened  system  of  husbandry,  about  30  years  ago, 
increased  in  value  in  a  surprising  degree. 

The  general  appearance  of  this  Ward  is  of  a  mixed  nature.  Carham  parish  is  almost 
destitute  of  hilk ;  but  in  every  other  part  the  ground  is  more  uneven,  and  consists 
mostly  of  vallies  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  or  two  in  width,  with  a  lofty  steep  bank 
on  either  side.  MilliWld  FUiu  is  the  most  remarkable,  tract,  boing  a  level  area  of  low 
absorbent  land,  some  niiles  across,  whose  margins  spread  ilregularly  in  various  direc- 
tions, following  the*  different  branches  of  the  Till.  This  Ward,  though  well  inclosed^ 
is  thinly  wooded ;  but  many  plantations  have  recently  been  made,  which  will,  in  a 
great  measure,  supply  this  deficiency.  It  contains  nine  parishes,  and  one  market 
town.  No  manufactory  is  carried  on  to  any  extent,  the  inhabitants  being  mostly 
emplojf  dd  jn  a^culturef.  j  ^  •  '/      'I  '  ;       '^  '     >"  ^ 


WEST    DIVISION, 


■  *  4 


CAIUJAM  PAHISH. 


'  • .  1    •       ' '  J « 


i  ...  .  ^ 

This  parish  lies  on  the  north-w^ '€ixtremity  of  the  county,  anid  is  botfndfoL  by 
Scotland  both  on  th^  north  and  the  tvrfest.  It  contains  240  ^dwelling  houses,  tod  pl,87t) 
inhabitants. 

Carham  stands  pleasantly  on  the  binks  of  the  Tweed,  about  a  mile  below  Riding 
Bum,  which  is  the  boundary  between  England  and  Scotland  to  the  west.  It  is  14 
miles  north-west  from  Wooler,  and  three  miles  west  by  south  from  Coldstream.  The 
village  is  small,  but  the  houses  are  tolerably  wdOi  built,  and  the  church,  wliich  stands 
at  the  west  end  of  tji^  village,  is  a  small  plain  structure.  The  minister's  ho^ise  is  neat 
and  convenient,  "with  a  smdl  but  fertile  glebe.  Here  is  a  day-school  and  a  Sunday- 
school  :  at  the  fohaier  36  children  usually  attends  Carham  has  a  dUaipel,  dedicated  to 
St.  Cuthbert,  delightfully  situate  on  the  edge  of  the  Tweed,  iri  the  midst'of  fine  trees. 

Carham  is  memoraljle  for  the  battle  fou^t  here  with  the  Baties,  wMdi  is  thus 
mentioned  by  Leland  :^—^  In  the  0flfd  yere  of  Eeteight^ j  the  Danes  arrived  at  Lindfis- 
fame,  and  foiight  with  thjB  !E^nglish  at  Carham,  when  eleven  bishopes  and  two  Eng- 
lish oountes  W^e  sflayne,  and  gteafe  mimbre  of  people.**  In  the  year  1048,  another 
most  decisive  battle  was  fought  here,  in  which  the  Scots  were  victorious,  and  almost 
all  the  fighting  men  between  Tees  and  Tweed- were  Cut  off,  with  their  chieftains. 
'Aldun,  bishop  of  purham,  lamented  the  disastrous  fate  of  St.  Cuthbat*s  people,  and, 
in  a  few  days  after,  died  broken-hearted  *  .   ^ 

*  21  Mart  15S1.  T^  n^M^wJt  ^Btjf4ngs  of  sundrj  aged  persdns  respecting  y«  eiifltoiliary  fl«rV2ce'of  ye 
inhabitants  of  ye  county  of 'Durham^  Md  as  tbey  have  seen  it  used  there. — First,  ivfien  there  wti  Kkelihood 
isi  any  QiTasioft  of  ye  teAiM  ^fe  Semes,  and  knowledge  tliereof  giyed  by  ye  lord'  UeoteiiAtft,  1ml  wardens^ 


CABHAAI  PAJtISH. 


331 


At  lihe  east  eivd  of  Carhimi  chureh  stood  an  abbey  of  Blobk  Canohs,  subordinate  to 
tiie  priory  of  Kirkham,  in  Yorkshire.  The  ySia,  l6rdi^p,  advowson,  and  impropria^ 
tion  of  the  living,  belon^d  to  that  priory ;  as  did  the  villa  and  manor  of  Titiington, 
two  parts  of  the  tithes  within  the  lordships  of  Mindrum  and  Bolton,  a  mansion-house 
in  Wark,  the  advowsons  and  impro]»iatR>ns  of  Ilderfon  and  Kirknewton,  &e.  The 
abbot  of  Carham  was  allowed  thirteen  pounds  per  annum,  as  mentioned  in  the  Lin* 
C(dn  taxation,  19  king  Edward  I.  1291.  In  the  24th  year  of  the  same  reign  the  abbey 
was  burnt  by  the  Soots,  then  led  by  Wallace,  whose  encampment  gave  name  to  an 
adjacent  field.  In  Edward's  letter  to  pope  Boniface,  he  describes  their  cruelties  in  a 
most  horrible  manner : — **  The  Scots  inhumanly  destroyed  an  innumerable  multitude 
of  his  subjects ;  burnt  m(»iastries»  churches,  and  towns ;  with  an  unpitjring  and  sa- 
y^^  cruetty  slew  infants  in  their  cradles  and  women  in  child-bed ;  barbarously  cut 
oft  women's  breasts;  and  burnt  in  a  school,  whose  doors  they  first  built  up,  about 
200  young  men,  who  ware  learning  their  first  letters  and  grammar."  Rym.  ii.  887- 
In  tlw  44th  year  of  king  Edward  III.  1870,  Sir  John  Lilbum  was  defeated  by  tiie 
Scots  near  this  place,  under  the  command  of  Sir  John  Gordon,  who  was  returning 
from  an  incursion  with  many  prisoners,  and  a  great  train  of  cattle:  the  engagement 
was  fierce,  and  its  decision  long  doubtful,  the  Scots  being  driven  from  their  ground^ 
and  returning  agidn  five  several  times.  In  the  end,  Sir  John  and  his  brother  were 
made  prisoners. 

At  a  little  distance  down  the  Tweed,  about  a  mile  west  from  Wark,  is  Carham-hall^ 
the  seat  of  Anthony  Compton,  esq.  It  is  a  huidsome  modem  building,  delightfully 
situate  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  tastefully  adorned  with  plantations.  This 
estate  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Compton's  grandfather  of  the  Forsters. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  village  is  a  hamlet,  situate  on  a  hiU,  called  Shidlaw,  or 
ShieldJaw — a  guard-hill  or  exploratory.    It  appears  also  to  have  been  the  only  place 

and  cytlien  having  charge  cf  ye  fronteare  for  ye  bilihapp  of  Durham^  ye  earls  of  Westmerland^  or^  in  their 
absents,  ye  sheriffe  and  justioes  of  ye  peasae,  made  proclamation,  yt  all  able  men  meet  for  ye  waers,  above 
sixteen  and  under  threescore,  <m  horseback  and  on  foot,  should  make  their  repaire  to  Gateside  Beacon,  in 
thdir  best  and  most  defensible  aitay  for  the  warrs,  with  victualls  for  ten  days,  at  a  certain  day  and  hour  ap. 
pointed,  at  which  all  men  appearing  there,  according  to  ye  proclamation,  if  reoon  require  yt  all  must  goe  on, 
every  gentleman  haveing  to  him  his  owne  servants  and  teanants,  joined  themselves  some  to  the  bpp.  and 
some  to  the  erle  of  Westmoreland  if  the  were  there,  if  not,  then  to  the  sheriffe  or  others  of  ye  worshippfullest 
of  ye  county  yt  were  there,  as  they  were  affeconed;  and  ye  comon  people  and  maine  shouldiers  drew  them- 
selves  to  such  as  they  did  hold  their  lands  upon,  or  were  tenants  to ;  as  aU  that  were  the  bpp.'s  tenants  to 
liim  or  to  his  officers,  ye  erle  of  Westmerland's  tenants,  his  shouldiers,  to  him  or  his  officers,  ye  house  of 
Durham's  tenants  to  ye  steward  of  their  lands,  ye  inhabitants  of  Bernard-castle  to  ye  steward  of  that  lordship, 
and  ye  rest  to  ye  sheriffe  a£  ye  shire. — And  after  muster  taken  by.  ye  officers  aforesaid,  all  men  went  forward 
untill  by  ye  officers  of  ye  Border  they  were  placed  as  they  thought  requisite ;  and  soe  they  continued  till  ye 
dayes  accustomed  were  expired :  but  if  yt  in  ye  meane  time  it  were  concluded  to  invade  Scotland,  or  to  stay 
longer  at  the  said  frontears  than  tenn  days,  to  be  accounted  from  their  coming  to  Newcastle,  imedeately  to 
enter  into  wages,  either  soe  soon  as  they  passe  into  watches,  or  that  these  tenn  dayes  were  ended. — But  if  it 
seemed  not  convenient  that  all  should  goe,  ye  lo.  lieuitent  or  warden  called  but  for  a  certaine  number;  then 
that  was  levyed  indSffmntly  of  every  man's  tenants  and  fiurmers,  according  to  pporcon  of  their  landes,  and 
^ey  were  dosen  and  appcnnted  in  this  maner,  Scc^-^Suriee/  Hist,  cfDurhmn. 


352  GLENDALE  WARD— W.  D. 

of  security  to  which  the  people  of  Carham,  in  early  thnes^  could  retire,  with  their 
cattle,  on  the  approadi  of^  a  hostile  party.  It  cc»nmands  an  extensive  and  beautiful 
prospect  into  Scotland. 

Ware  Castle.  The  remains  of  this  casde  stand  upon  a  drcular  eminence,  appa* 
rently  formed  by  art,  near  the  river  Tweed,  east  from  Carham,  and  about  two  mues 
west  from  Comhill.  No  certain  date  can  be  affixed  to  the  erection  of  this  fortress ; 
but,  from  several  circumstances  of  history,  it  appears  that  it  was  fcHrmidable  so  early 
as  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century.  According  to  Leland,  "  Henry  II.  causid 
the  castefof  Werke  to  be  made.**  From  its  situation,  this  castle  was  exposed  to  re- 
peated  assaults,  ^d  forms  a  prominent  object  in  the  bloody  annals  of  the  border  wars. 

On  king  Stephen's  usurpation  of  the  English  crown,  David,  king  of  Scotland,  with 
great  indignation,  entered  the  borders,  and,  among  other  fortresses,  assaulted  and  took 
a  place  which,  according  to  Richard  of  Hexham,  was  called  Work.  On  a  treaty  held 
whilst  Stephen  lay  at  £>urham,  and  David  at  Newcastle,  these  conquests  were  re- 
stored by  the  Scotch  king,  who  took,  as  a  compensation,  Carlisle  and  some  other 
places  of  less  import,  as  additions  to  the  earldom  of  Huntingdon;  which  was  then 
ratified  to  him :  Stephen  also  engaged,  that  before  any  disposition  was  made  of  the 
earldom  of  Northumberland,  he  woiud  cause  the  claim  of  Henry  (David's  son)  thereto, 
in  right  of  his  mother,  to  be  fairly  heard  by  his  judges.  David  received  in  marriage, 
from  king  Heniy  I,  of  England,  his  brother-in-law,  Maud,  the  eldest  daughter  of 
Waltheof  earl  of  Northumt:^land,  from  whom  Henry  his  son  derived  his  pretensions 
to  that  earldom.  Henry,  by  the  resignation  of  his  father,  and  king  Stephen's  ratifi- 
cation, held  the  earldom  of  Huntingdon. 

The  determination  of  Henry's  claim  to  Northumberland  being  suspended,  and 
Stephen  unwilling  to  bring  it  to  a  fair  discussion,  sensible  of  the  great  pow«r  it 
would  jrive  to  the  Scotch  crown,  irritated  David  to  support  his  son's  pretensions  by 
force  or  arms.  Stephen's  absence  in  Normandy  favoured  his  purpose ;  and  soon  after 
Easter,  in  the  year  1187,  he  levied  a  great  armv,  with  intent  to  invade  England.  The 
northern  barons,  with  Thiu-ston,  archbishop  of  York,  assembled  the  Engush  forces  at 
Newcastle,  and  the  archbishop  proceeding  to  Roxburgh,  where  David  was,  as  usual, 
intently  employed  in  his  favourite  works  of  piety  and  civilization,  prevailed  on  the 
king  and  his  son  to  enter  into  a  truce  till  Stephen's  return ;  but  the  English  king 
persisting  in  a  denial  of  Henry's  right,  war  immediately  ensued. 

The  winter  was  set  in,  when  David,  flattered  witn  hopes  of  an  insmrection  in 
England,  a  plot  having  been  laid  to  massacre  all  the  Normans,  and  deliver  the  king- 
dom to  him  who  was  nearest  heir  in  the  Saxon  line,  not  regarding  the  rigour  of  the 
season,  dispatched  his  nephew  William,  son  of  Duncan,  with  part  of  his  army,  against 
the  castle  of  Work,  The  most  vigorous  assaults  were  sustained,  during  three  weeks, 
by  the  garrison,  under  the  command  of  Jordan  de  Bussis,  nephew  of  Walter  D'Espec, 
lord  of  Wark :  when  David  was  obliged  to  raise  the  siege  with  disgrace.  The  en» 
raged  warrior  led  his  forces  to  the  western  parts  of  Northumberland,  where  he  spread 
desolation  and  ruin,  and  marked  his  progress  as  far  as  the  Tyne  with  acts  of  savage 
cruelty.  To  oppose  these  invaders,  Stephen,  at  the  head  of  a  numerous  army»  ad* 
vaneed  to  Wark,  which  obliged  David  to  abandon  Northumberland^  and  prepare  to 


'      CARHAM  PARISH.  MB 

defend  his  own  territories :  biit  Stephen,  apprebeiisiTe  t)f  treachery,  returned  to  Eng- 
land without  effecting  any  thing  against  his  enemy, »  David  seeing  the  English  forces 
had  abandoned  the  Border,  after  taking  and  demolishing  Norham,' advanced  against 
Wark :  but  his  success  in  this  second  attempt  was  no  better  than  in  his  former  as- 
sault ;  he  exerted  his  powers,  employed  every  engine  the  art  of  war  had  introduced, 
and  with  much  bloodshed  persisted  in  the  siege ;  till  conceiving  the  fortress  was  im- 

Eregnable,  he  commenced  a  blockade,  and  marched  southward  with  the  main  body  of 
is  army. 

David  soon  after  had  a  dreadful  deffe&t,  near  NorthaHertort,  at  the  Battle  of  tkiei 
Standard;*  after  which  he  retreated  with  the  shattered  remains  of  the  troops  to  Car- 
lisle, through  a  country  enraged  at  the  barbarities  he  had  been  guilty  of  in  his  former 
incursion.    After  a  short  respite,  and  a  collection  of  his  scattered  altny  at  Carlisle,  he 
commanded  the  siege  of  Wark  to  be  resumed,  in  which  irikny  Wew-invented  engines 
and  machines;,  were  employed.    The  besieged,  with  unpat^eled  fortitude,  (Sustain^ 
the  shock :  their  skHfuiness  was  as  admirable  ad  their  courage,  for  they  lost  but  one 
knight,  whose  intrepidity  in  aftttoking  a  machine  exposed  him  to  numbers  of  assail- 
ants, in  the  midst  of  whom  he  fell,  after  testifying  the  highest  pefssible  vdour.    The 
slaughter  made  by  the  garrison  was  terrible,  insoinuch  fhtrt  David,  reUliHg  his  ri^r^ 
ous  command,  ceased  aU  assaults,  and  again  formed  a  strong  blockade.    The  gamson 
were  reduced  to  great  extremities ;  they  had  killed  thdr  hbrses,  and  salted  their  flesh 
for  food,  and  when  that  ^^as  nearly  consufned,  resolved,  as  soon  as  all  provision^  wwr 
exhausted,  to  make  a  general  saSy,  and  tMt  their  passage  through  the  lines  of  the  ds* 
sailants,  or  die  ^word  Jn  hand.    During  fWs  iMerval,  Walteif  D'Espec,f  their  lord^ 
willhig  to  preserve  so  brave  a  corps,  sent  the  abb6t  of  Rievalle  with  Ms  CMnftaand^ 
that  the  garrison  should  surrende*'  the  f/bte^:  on  whoie  arrival  a  trefity  Was  elit^ed 
into,  in  consequence  of  which  the  gArrisort  tttfStxriated,  and  Were  |)ermitted  to  ifiiareil 
out  of  the  castte,  under  arms,  with  twenty  horsed  prbvMed  them  by  the  Scoteh  king> 
On  this  Evacuation,  the  Castle  wai^  demotehed,  and  the  fbrtMcations  Were  tased :  btrt 
king  Hen^  11.  Ordered  the  fortifications  of  the  castle  6f  Wark  to  be  rest<^ed. 

^  The  fktsl  Brittle  ofthie  St^nddrd  Vrai  fouf^kii  on  CoWtiMi  Moor,  ne/Ai  Nortlialleiton  (A.  ik  £fi^rt«fi)y  in 
Yorkshire,  1198.  David  i.  commanded  ifie  Soottftb  army.  Hie  was  opposed  by  TbuMdb;  krcbbisUopof 
York,  who,  to  AfdvtkU  his  Mloir^rs,  bad  rscdort^  to  llie  iltapf  ^sdoAs  of  rol^os  enthusiiMn.  Thq  mast  of  n 
Aip  "viras  fltte^  f ntol  the  peireh  Of  k' foor^wboelod  caitlage  ;  dnftatapyrtd  plac^  a  litde  casket,  oontaihini^ii' 
eOnseeraC^d  hosl  '  it  also  contliilked  tike  baimer  of  8t  Citthbert,  r^imd  which  were  fbsplajed  dios^  of  SU 
P^ter  of  York,  St  John  of  Beverley^  aod  Si  Wilfrid  of  Ripon.  This  wm  the  English  s^ndard,  and  was 
siatiotiod  hi  Iho  eefitr^  of  ^e  army.  Pxnuoe  Henry,  son  of  David,  at  th^  head  of  thfe  men  of  arms,  chiefly 
from  Ctmheiiand  And  Teviotdale,  chargod,  broke,  and  completely  diiplnaed  the  centre ;  but  unfortunately 
was'  not  supported  by  the  other  diviMoBS  of  the  Scottish  army.  The  ei{>re6l»i<Hi  of  Aldred,  describing  this 
encounter,  is  more  spirited  than  the  general  tenor  of  monkish  historians  :«^-''  Ipsa  giobi  auMtraU*  parte,  inftitr 
eium  armmof  dMpaia"'^ibmi  divisidto  of  the  ptudanx-  was  dispersed  like  a  cobweb, 

t  Walter  D'EspeC,  the  galknt  defender  of  Wark,  is  represented  as  a  person  of  the  flr^t  emihence  atid'esteelli 
in  the  English  army.  Before  the  terrible  JBatlle  of  the  Standard,  he  harangued  die  troops  |W)m  the  carriage^ 
in  which-  the  standard  was  erected.  He  h^  great  estates  in  Yorkshire,  lUid  ^a6  founds  of  the  abbey  oP  Kij^ 
valle,  on  the  banks  of  the  Rie,  .'    .       .       ,f 

VOL,  I,  4  U  ' 


854  GLENDALE  WARD— W.  D. 

King  John,  in  the  year  1S15,  in  resentment  of  the  defection  of  the  northern  haton^ 
who  had  done  homage  to  Alexander  II.  at  Meht>s,  advanced  to  the  Border,  and, 
amongst  other  places,  reduced  Wark  to  ashes. 

King  Edward,  on  the  breach  of  fealty  by  John  Baliol,  in  the  year  1296,  having 
levied  a  great  army,  advanced  towards  the  Scotch  Borders ;  and,  halting  at  Bam- 
brough,  received  intelligence  that  Robert  de  Ros,  lord  of  Wark,  had  abandoned  his 
castle,  and  gone  over  to  the  Scots,  being  enamoured  of  a  Scotch  woman,  whose  afFec- 
tions  he  preferred  to  his  duty  and  allegiance :  his  brother  William  remaining  in  the 
fortress,  dispatched  a  messenger  to  require  immediate  aid  of  the  king,  as  he  appre- 
hended Robert  would  attempt  to  deliver  Wark  to  the  enemy.  King  Edward  imme- 
diately ordered  1000  men  to  march  to  sustain  William  and  his  garrison,  who,  on  their 
arrival,  were  attacked  in  their  quarters  in  the  night,  in  a  small  village  called  Prestfen, 
by  Robert  de  Ros,  with  a  detachment  from  Roxburgh,  who  burnt  the  village,  and 
put  the  reinforcement  to  the  sword.  King  Edward,  soon  after  this  disaster,  marched 
with  his  whole  army  to  Wark,  where  he  contmued  to  celebrate  the  festival  of  Easter. 

In  the  reign  of  king  Edward  II.  1S18,  Wark  was  taken  by  the  Scots,  under  king 
Robert  Bruce,  by  assault.  In  Leland's  Collectanea,  page  549,  it  is  said,  that  ''  the 
Scottes  came  into  the  Marches  of  England,  and  destroyed  the  castelles  of  Wark  and 
Harbottle.*' 

As  king  David  Bruce,  with  his  victorious  army,  was  retiuning  from  his  cruel  ex- 
pedition to  Durham  in  1341,  the  rear  of  his  army,  passing  the  castle  of  Wark  loaden 
with  spoils,  were  seen  by  the  garrison  with  the  neatest  indignation.  Sir  William 
Montage  was  then  governor,  and  the  countess  of  Salisbury,  whose  lord  the  fortress 
then  bdonged  to,  resided  there.  The  ^vemor,  with  40  horsemen,  made  a  sally,  at- 
tended with  considerable  slaughter,  bnnging  into  the  castle  160  horses  laden  with 
booty.  King  David,  incensed  at  this  insmt,  led  his  army  against  the  castle,  and  made 
a  general  assault,  but  met  with  a  repulse,  attended  with  great  bloodshed.  David 
then  prraared  to  fill  up  the  ditches,  and  bring  his  battering  engines  to  play  upon  the 
walls.  The  imminent  danger  of  the  garrison  rendered  it  necessary  to  send  informa- 
tion of  their  situation  to  the  English  monarch,  who  was  approaching  the  Borders  with 
a  considerable  army.  The  place  being  dosely  invested,  rendered  sudi  an  attempt 
perilous ;  but  it  was  effected  by  the  governor  Imnself,  on  a  fleet  horse,  in  the  dark- 
ness  and  tumult  of  a  stormy  night :  he  passed  through  the  enemy's  lines,  and  carried 
intelligence  to  king  Edward,  who  redoubled  his  speed  to  relieve  the  place.  The 
Scotch  chieftains,  unwilling  to  hazard  the  treasures  they^  had  reaped  in  their  expedi- 
tion, persuaded  the  king  to  raise  the  siege  and  pass  the  Tweed ;  which  was  done  only 
six  hours  before  the  van  of  the  English  army  appeared.  The  joy  of  the  countess  of 
Salisbury  for  this  relief,  and  her  pleasing  deportment  whilst  she  entertained  the  king 
at  Wark,  were  the  beginning  oi  an  amour,  to  which  the  famous  institution  of  Ae 
Order  of  the  Garter  is  said  to  owe  its  origin. 

In  the  reign  of  king  Richard  II.  1383,  Wark  was  besieged  by  the  Scots,  and  part 
of  the  fortifications  destroyed.  Soon  after  the  accession  of  king  Heniy  IV.  the  truce 
made  with  Kichard  II.  expiring,  the  Scots  made  an  incursion,  in  which  they  took  the 
castle  of  Wark,  and^  after  holding  it  some  time,  utterly  demolished  the  works.  It 
was  a  fortress  of  too  much  consequence  to  be  neglected,  and  therefore  we  find  it  soon 


CARHAM  PARISH.  855 

ttPter  restored,  and  in  a  state  of  defaice;  for  in  the  same  reign  it  sustained  many 
shocks,  with  various  decrees  of  fortune.  In  1419,  in  the  absence  of  the  king  of  Eng- 
land, who  was  then  in  France,  hostilities  being  commenced  on  the  Borders,  William 
Halliburton,  of  Fast  Castle,  took  the  castle  of  W  ark,  which  was  then  m  the  keeping 
of  Robert  Ogle,  and  put  all  the  oarrison  to  the  sword ;  but  it  was  soon  recovered  by 
the  EngUsh,  who,  from  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  place,  made  their  way  by  a  sewer 
which  led  from  the  kitchen  into  the  Tweed,  and  surprising  the  garrison,  put  them  all 
to  death,  in  revenge  for  their  cruelty  on  Ogle's  troops. 

In  the  reign  of  Henry  VI.  1460,  the  Soots  gathered  great  booty  on  the  Marches, 
and  among  many  other  castles  which  they  assailed,  Wark  was  taken  and  demolished. 
The  castle  was  afterwards  repaired  by  the  earl  of  Surrey ;  and  in  the  year  1528,  in 
the  15th  year  of  the  reign  of  king  Henry  VIII.  the  Scotch  army,  lying.at  Coldstream, 
resolved  to  attempt  the  reduction  of  Wark,  under  the  command  of  the  duke  of  Al- 
bany, Sir  John  Lisle  being  then  governor.  George  Buchannan,  the  celebrated  poet 
and  historian,  carried  arms  in  this  expedition,  and  gives  us  the  following  description 
of  the  castle,  as  it  then  stood : — **  In  the  inmost  area  was  a  tower  of  great  strength 
and  height.  This  was  encircled  by  two  walls,  the  outer  including  a  large  space,  into 
which  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  used  to  fly,  and  carry  their  flocks  and  com  in 
time  of  war ;  the  inner  of  much  smafier  extent,  but  fortifled  more  strongly  by  ditches 
and  towers.  It  had  a  strong  garrison,  good  store  of  artillery  and  ammunition,  and 
other  things  necessary  for  defence."  The  duke  of  Albany  sent  over  the  Tweed  some 
battering  cannon,  and  a  choseti  band  of  Scots  and  French,  consisting  of  three  or  four 
thousand,  under  the  command  of  Andrew  Ker,  of  Farniherst  Two  despetate  as- 
saults were  made,  and  bravely  repulsed,  when  a  great  fall  of  rain  obliged  tne  whole 
detachment  em^yed  in  the  siege  to  return  to  the  main  army,  lest  the  sudden  over« 
flowing  of  the  Tweed  riiould  hav^e  raodered  their  retreat  impracticable.  Wark  cas- 
tle was  repaired  in  1648  by  one  Archan,  an  Italian,  and  cost  ^1864, 16«.  7d. 

The  great  convention  for  the  settlemeit  of  the  tenths  demanded  by  king  Henry  U. 
in  the  year  1188,  was  held  at  Brigfaam,  near  Wark.  Hugh,  bishop  of  Durham,  was 
the  chief  of  king  Henry's  envoys,  and  was  met  by  king  William  the  Lion,  his  bishops, 
earls,  barons,  and  a  vast  concourse  of  inferior  vassals,  when  the  Scotch  rgected  tne 
demand  with  the  utmost  ccmtempt  In  the  year  1549»  we  read  of  Wark  receiving 
the  earl  of  Rutland  and  his  army  after  their  Scotch  expedition.  In  lord  Wharton's 
proposals  for  the  better  protection  of  the  Marches,  it  seems  that  the  castle  of  Wark 
was  then  held  by  the  crown.  On  the  accession  of  king  James  I.  all  the  fortresses  on 
the  Borders  were  ordered  to  be  reduced  and  dismantle,  and  it  is  most  probaUe  that' 
was  the  period  when  Wark  was  finally  demolished. 

Its  present  remains  do  not  convey  an  idea  of  so  formidable  a  fortress,  as  it  certainly 
was  for  many  centuries.  A  fragment  of  the  building,  like  a  rude  pillar  of  stones, 
still,  however,  arrests  the  attention  of  the  traveller,  and  points  out  the  scene  of  so 
many  gallant  and  bloody  achievements.  Part  of  the  foundations  are  also  remaining. 
Under  the  outer  wall,  which  seems  to  have  been  of  ashler-work,  was  a  military  walk, 
five  yards  broad,  and  forty-eiffht  yards  long.  It  forms  a  beautiAil  terrace,  edged  with 
a  steep  precipice,  xmder  whi(»  gUdes  the  Tweed  in  deep  and  hollow  murmurs.  On 
the  west  side  are  the  outworks,  consisting  <d  a  platform  with  a  trench,  half  a  mile  in 


3S6  GLENDALE  WARD^W.  D. 

length.  The  fafeast-works  and  covered  ways  are  still  conspicuous ;  the  ditches  deep 
and  the  rampier  high.  There  are  three  small  mounts,  one  about  midway »  another  at 
the  extremity,  an^the  third  between  this  and  the  rirer,  a  linear  trench  running 
through  them  at  the  top.  Near  the  first  mount  is  part  of  the  foundations  of  a  chapel, 
nqw  called  GiUy's  Nich^  from  its  situation  by  a  post  way,  and  its  tutehu-y  saint,  St. 
Giles,  Many '  grave-stones,  some  belonging  to  people  of  consequence,  have  been 
found  near  this  place.  These  out-works  are  called  the  Kemb^  which,  Mr.  Wallis 
says,  was  the  camp  of  the  militia  designed  to  iemh^  or  fight  an  enemy ;  kemb  being  a 
word  often  used  by  the  Bcnrderers  when  they  threaten,  in  a  passionate  tone,  to  beat  an 
assailants    They  will  kemb  him,  that  is,  beat  him  heartily. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  rampier,  near  the  castle,  is  a  spot  called  the  Battle-^lace, 
opposite  to  whidi  is  a  terraced  hill,  called  GaSows^kUi,  being  the  place  where  crimi- 
nals ware  executed.  Their  burial'^place  seems  to  have  been  an  adjoining  circular 
mount,  called  GteUows-^Ul^knaw,  where  a  human  skeleton  was  found  in  digging  for 
limestone.  Below  the  castle,  and  on  the  brink  of  the  river,  is  a  beautifw  teitace, 
called  the  Maidek's  Wali. 

The  castle  and  manor  of  Wark  was  held  in  the  reign  of  king  Henry  II.  by  Hugh 
de  Nevil,  by  the  name  of  the  Honoiur  de  Werch,  who  accounted  to  the  king  for  the 
farm  of  it  that  year  at  £5, 10^.  6rf. ;  and  in  the  84th  year  of  the  same  reign,  at  £l3, 
Js.  6d.  at  which  time,  by  the  king's  command,  it  was  given  to  Robert  de  Ros,  of 
Hdlmsley,  in  Yorkshire,  who  gave  k  to  his  jrounger  sen,  Robert  de  Ros,  II  Henry 
III.  to  hold  it  in  barony  of  the  king  by  the  service  of  two  knights'^  fees,  as  his  father 
and  predecessors  bad  done.  This  barony  ku  many  towns  and  lopdsh^s  belonging  to 
it  Robert  de  Ros  manied  one  of  the  danightsrs  of  WiUnim  king  of  Scotland ;  Ehs*. 
taee  de  Vesc^,  barcm  of  Alnwiek,  marrying  another  daughter.  His  son  and  successor, 
Rob»t  de  R!os,  and  John  de  Baliol,  were  guaidians  of  the  new-married  pair^  Alexan^- 
der,  king  of  SeotLaad,  and  Maifpaeet,  eldert  ^tighter  of  king  Henry  III.  laSl,  of 
whom  ine  fdSowing  unaccountable  anecdote  is  given  by  Hoiin^head ;— -^  That  4hey 
were  guilty  of  injurious  conduct  towards  their  dM^,  by  denying  them  social  inter- 
course :  on  the  iirformalaon  of  an  Englnh  j^sician,  they  were  punished— Bidiol  by 
a  large  sum  in  mulet,  and  Ros  by  oonfiscation  of  his  estates.  King  Henry  and  his 
€|tteeii;  from  their  potaital  feeiikigs,  made  a  joumby  to^  Edinbiugh,  to  see  ^em  pos- 
sessed  ot  th^  wishes." 

William  de  Ros,*  suecesRir  to  Robert,  on  the  death  of  Alexander,  king  of  Soot- 
land,  was  a  ooometitoif  tov  his  epomru  He  was  also  one  of  the  iiiree  barons  of  Korth^ 
umb»land,  in  the  funous  list  of  British  lords^  who  made  that  noble  stand  agdnst'  t^ 
papal  usurpation,  in  claiming  the  kingdom  d?  ^c^otinnd  as  a  lief  to  tbe  see  0$  Riome, 
j2l9^  king  Edward  I.  1S01-;  the  other  two  barons  being  Robert  Fite^Roger,  baron  of 
Waricwofth  and  Clavering,  and  Joha  ds  Greyirtock,  baron  of  Morpeth,  John  lord 
Ros,  barons  of  Wark  and  Helmaley,  was  one  of  the  inAve  guardians  of  the  kingdom  * 


*  Wfllielnittft  de  Boo*  tenet  iii'  eapite  de  ddmiMregeWifpft^  Leremcmth,  Myn^ffom,  Carhun',  Pi'estfen^ 
Mbneylawei,  DowaluaB,  PAnston,  Shotton,  KiltiAai,  KtMUll^  MT^ton,:  et  alteranfi  Neatoiii  LangtM,  Lilburfi; 
IMenon,  Wepodon,  Sotioa,  Skmr^um  TitlingMiy  BoUnn,  Abberw^ke,  Bittleatxm  inllribr;  gnoigiiitii  do 
Stnrtai,  e(  medwt^tqin  de  GHanUn^  par  dm  IkuAi  et  <Uiiii<i^4MdLdst  vet«ii£iiAnMiito^>^£iMer  de  umie  I  frf.  f v 


-    CARHAM  PARISH.  357 

in  the  minority  of  king  Edward  III.     Xliomas  lord  Ros  was  summoned  by  writ  to 

{parliament,  I  ting  Richard  II.  1877.  William  lord  Ros  was  summoned  to  the  par- 
lament  at  Westminster,  6th  October,  1  king  Henry  TV.  1399.  'fhe  year  following, 
by  an  inquisition,  it  was  found  that  the  castle,  manor,  and  villa  of  Wark,  had  come 
into  the  possession  of  the  ancient  and  honourable  family  of  the  Greys.* 

^  The  first  of  the  Greys  that  possessed  Wark  was  Sir  Thcmias  Grey,  ef  HetoQ,  who  was  summoned  by 
writ  to  the  parliament  at  Westminster,  6th  October^  the  preceding  year ;  and  wa*  one  of  the  committee  to 
receive  the  renunciation  of  king  Richard  IL  at  the  tower^  being  procurator-general  or  proxy  for  the  northern 
members.  He  was  high  sheriff  of  North umberland^  9th  of  king  Henry  IV. ;  his  tirms^  gules^  a  lion  rampant, 
within  a  border  entailed  argent.  The  castles  of  Heton  and  Chillingharoy  and  other  estates,  were  possessed 
by  Sir  Ralph  Grey,  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  34,  SS  king  Henry  VI. ;  by  another  Sir  Ralph,  high 
sheriff  of  Northumberland,  5  queen  Elizabeth ;  by  his  son  and  heir.  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  high  sheriff  of  NorUi- 
umberland,  1 6th  of  the  same  reign;  by  Sir  William  Grey,  created  a  baronet,  15th  June,  17  king  James  I, 
1619*  He  was  a  representative  in  parliament  for  Northumberland  the  year  following,  and  wa»  raised  to  the 
peerage  by  the  style  and  title  of  Lord  Grey  of  Wark,  1 1th  February,  21  king  James  I.  His  lordship  mar- 
ried Anne^  one  of  the  daughters  and  coheirs  of  Sir  John  Wentworth,  of  GoBlield,  in  Essex ;  and  was  sum- 
moned to  parliament,  1  king  James  I.  \GZS ;  also  1  and  I6  king  Charles  I.  1625,  l640.  He  was  a  lieutenant 
general  of  the  parliament-army  under  lord  Fairfax,  19  king  Charles  I.  l643.  On  their  fright  and  consterna- 
tion by  the  news  of  the  defeat  of  their  forces  at  Atherton-moor,  near  Bradford,  in  Yorkshire,  in  the  same 
year,  in  July,  he  was  called  upon  to  go  to  Scotland,  to  invite  the  Scots  to  their  assistance;  but  refusing,  be 
was  sent  to  the  Tower  for  his  disobedience.  He  afterwards  acquired  so  much  fiivour  as  to  be  speaker  of  the 
upper  house,  and  to  be  entrusted  with  the  court  of  the  duchy  of  Lancaster,  jointly  with  Lenthall,  the  other 
speaker,  21  king  Charles  I.  1645.  In  l647>  he  was  made  keeper  of  the  Great  Seal  of  England,  jointly  with 
Sir  Thomas  Widdrington,  with  a  salary  of  1000/.  per  annum.  His  brother,  colonel  Grey,  was  killed  in  the 
same  year,  at  Munster,  in  Ireland,  in  the  service  of  the  parliament.  His  lordship  died  29th  July,  26  king 
Charles  II.  1674.  He  was  succeeded  in  honour  and  estate  by  his  son  aUd  heir,  lord  Grey,  who  was  created 
viscount  Glendale,  and  earl  of  Tankerville^  7  king  William  III.  1695.  He  married  Mary,  the  fourth  daugh- 
ter of  George  earl  of  Berkley,  by  whom  he  had  one  daughter,  Mary,  married  to  Charles  Bennet,  lord  Ossul- 
ion.  He  died,  1  queen  Anne,  1701 ;  and  with  him  the  earldom  and  viscountship.  The  barony  and  estate 
came  to  his  only  brother^  Ralph  Grey,  governor  of  Barbadoes.  He  died  20th  June,  I706.  Lady  Ossultoo, 
his  neice  and  heir,  died  in  May,  171O.  She  had  three  sons  and  three  daughters,  by  Charles  lord  Ossulton. 
His  lordship  was  created  earl  of  Tankerville,  19th  October,  1  king  George  I.  1714.  He  was  made  chief 
justice  in  Eyre,  and  knight  of  the  most  noble  order  of  the  garter.  He  died  May  21,  1 722,  and  was  succeeded 
by  Charles  his  eldest  son, 

Charles,  the  second  earl,  marrying  Camilla,  daughter  of  Edward  Colville,  esq.  who  died  Oct  8,  1775,  aged 
105,  had  issue  two  sons  and  one  daughter.  His  lordship  was  lord  lieutenant  of  the  coun^  of  Northumber- 
land, and  of  the  town  and  county  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  and  knight  of  the  order  of  the  thistle.  He  died 
March  14,  1753,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son, 

Charles,  the  third  earl,  married  Sept  28,  1742,  Alicia,  third  daughter  and  coheir  to  Sir  John  Astley,  hart* 
of  Staffordshire;  and  by  her  (who  died  Oct  8, 1775)  had  Charles,  the  succeeding  earl ;  John  Grey,  bom  Sept  7, 
1751,  who  died  in  the  second  year  of  his  age;  Camilla  Elisabeth,  bom  March  22,  1746-7^  married  in  1764 
count  Dunhoff,  a  Polish  nobleman,  related  to  the  king  of  Poland,  but  was  left  a  widow.  Sept  4,  1764 ;  Fian- 
ees  Alida,  bom  Jan.  8,  1749,  married  William  Aslong,  esq.  by  whom  she  was  left  a  widow  with  one  daugh-^ 
ter,  who  died  I>ec.  1780;  she  married,  secondly,  March  25,  1781,  the  Rev.  Richard  Sandys,  and  thirdly,  to 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Edward  Beckington  Bensoii ;  Henry  Astley,  bom  April  S,  1757^  »  major-general  in  the  army. 

VOL,  h  4f  X 


9«8  GLENDALE  WARD.— W.  D. 

Wark,  tibe  village,  lies  eastward  from  the  castle,  and  consists  chiefly  of  a  miserable 
cluster  of  thatched  cottages  occupied  by  fishermen,  most  of  whom  are  freeholders.  It 
possesses  no  vestiges  of  its  ancient  consequence.  There  is  a  day-school  here,  but  its 
school-room  is  much  dilapidated. 

MiNDRUM  is  a  small  village  in  the  south  of  the  parish.  It  contains  a  ruined  chapel 
and  neglected  biuial-^ouna.  There  is  a  day-school  maintained  here.  This  place 
abo  is  the  property  oithe  present  earl  of  Tankerville. 

Learmouth,  which  stands  near  the  water  of  that  name,  a  little  distance  above 
where  it  joins  the  Tweed,  was  once  a  considerable  market-town ;  but  since  the  adja- 
cent country  was  converted  into  a  large  farm,  it  has  been  nearly  depopulated.  **  It  is 
now,"  says  Pennant,  "  reduced  to  a  single  farm-house.  The  inhabitants  have  long 
since  been  dispersed,  forced  to  exchange  the  wholesome,  the  vigorous,  the  innocent 
lives  of  the  rural  economists,  for  the  sickly  short-lived  employ  of  manufacturers  in 
Birmingliam,  and  other  great  towns,  where  disease,  and  often  corrupted  morals,  cause 
dpuble  the  consumption  that  would  happen  were  they  permitted  to  enjoy  their  an- 
jdent  sea,ts."  Here  is  a  ne^ected  burial-ground.  In  an  adjoining  marl-pit,  14  feet 
deep,  were  found  large  stag-horns,  and  an  oak  paddle,  such  as  the  South  Sea  island- 
ers use. 

BRANXTON  PARISH. 

This  small  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Comhill  parish,  on  the  east  by  Ford, 
on  the  south  mr  Kirknewton,  and  on  the  west  by  Carham.  It  is  annexed  to  Comhill 
in  ecclesiastical  affairs,  but,  in  civil  arrangements,  is  included  in  the  parish  of  Kirk- 
newton. It  is  a  vicarage  valued  in  the  king's  books  at  £8,  6s.  Sd.;  the  dean  and 
chapter  of  Durham  patrons.     In  1821,  it  contained  but  47  houses  and  253  inhabitants. 

and  first  lietrtenant-colonel  of  die  S6'th  regiment  of  foot  His  lordship  died  Oct  S7,  I767,  and  was  succeeded 
by  his  son  Charles. 

Charles  Bennett,  the  fourth  earl  of  Tankerrille,  and  baron  of  Ossulton,  married  Oct  7,  177 1>  Bmnm, 
daughter  and  coheiress  of  Sir  James  Colebrooke,  bart.  by  whom  he  had  issue.  Caroling  bom  Oct  d>  177% 
married  Sir  John  Wrottesley,  bart.;  Anna,  born  April  28,  1774*  married  July  18,  1804^  the  Rev.  WilUana 
Beresford,  youngest  son  of  his  grace  the  archbishop  of  Tuam ;  Charles  Augustus,  lovd  Ossukon,  bom  April 
£8,  1776 ;  Henry  Grey  Bennett,  well  known  for  his  activity  in  parUament,  bom  Dae.  2,  1777 ;  John  AfltJey, 
a^  officer  in  the  navy,  bom  Dec.  SI,  1778;  Margaret  Alicia  Emma,  bom  May  21,  1780;  Mary  £li»ibetl]» 
bom  March  24,  1783  ;  Augustus  Sophia,  bom  Nov.  27>  1787-  His  lordship  held  fmr  a  short  time  the  office 
of  postmaster-general.     He  died  December,  1822. 

Charles  Augustus,  the  present  and  fifth  earl  of  Tankerville,  and  baron  of  Ossulton,  married  July  28,  I8O6,  Ma^ 
demoiselle  de  Gramont,  daughter  of  the  duke  of  Gramont,  and  grnmd-daughter  of  the  duke  de  PoUgoac  He 
was  M.  P.  for  Knaresborough,  and  held  the  office  of  treasurer  to  his  ixuLJeatfs  household  during  the  short 
administration  of  the  Whigs.     He  was  also  the  late  M.  P.  for  Berwidt  upon  Tweed. 

The  fiunily  of  the  Bennetts  have  been  long  seated  in  Berkshire;  tiiey  are  supposed  to  have  been  of  Italiaa 
extraction,  and  to  have  come  into  £ng1and  in  the  time  of  king  John.  In  Edward  IIL's  rtign,  a  William 
Bennett  had  leave  of  the  king  to  go  beyond  seas  on  his  service. 


.    BRANXTON  PARISH,  95» 

By  an  inquisition,  88  Eliz.  1596^  Sir  John  Selby,,  knight,  held  the  manor  of  Branxton 
in  capite,  and  the  capital  messuages  of  Moneylaws  and  Bolton^  both  in  capite^  and 
one  tenement  in  Pawston  and  one  tenement  in  Wooler,  as  a  80th  part  of  one  Knight's 
fee.  He  died  the  20th  September,  in  the  year  before  mentioned,  and  William  big 
son  was  then  aged  39  years.  Henry  Collingwood,  esq.  of  Lilbum,  possesses  above 
one-third  of  the  land  in  this  parish.  Here  is  a  day-school,  usually  attended  by  84 
scholars.  The  school  has  just  been  rebuilt  In  Branxton  West  Field  is  a  rough  up- 
right column  of  basalt,  a  memorial  of  the  victory  of  Flodden,  which  was  most  fu- 
riously contested  here,  where  the  gallant  James  fell. 

The  small  village  of  Branxton  fies  about  two  miles  east  of  Learmouth,  nine  miles 
north-west  from  Wooler,  and  five  miles  east-south-east  from  Coldstream.*    On  Tri- 

*  The  Rev.  Percival  Stockdale,  the  late.ingenioas  and  eccentric  vicar  of  Lesbury  and  Longhou^ton,  was 
bom  here  on  the  26th  day  of  October,  O.  S.  1733.  He  waa  the  only  child  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Stockdale, 
vicar  of  Branxton  and  perpetual  curate  of  Comhill,  who  married  Miss  Dorothy  CoUin^ood,  of  Murton>  a 
family  that  claims  the  late  brave  admiral  of  that  name  and  title.  His  venerable  fiither  possessed  a  small 
landed  patrimony  in  Cumberland  ;  and  his  great  grandfather  was  an  officer  in  Charles  I.'s  army,  and  fell  in 
supporting  that  king  against  the  parliament  Young  Stockdale  was  nurtured  with  excessive  care,  and,  in 
1745,  was  sent  to  the  grammar  school  of  Alnwick,  where  he  continued  for  three  years.  In  1750,  he  returned, 
and  was  extremely  active  in  a  furious  barring-out^  which  lasted  for  a  week.  During  the  following  year,  he 
was  removed  to  the  grammar  school  at  Berwick,-'  and,  in  1754,  he  returned  to  his  father's  abode  at  ComhiU, 
where  he  enjoyed  the  acquaintance  and  friendship  erf  lord  Delaval,  his  brother  Sir  F.  B.  DeUval,  and  of 
the  classical  Sir  F.  Blake.  In  the  autumn  of  this  year,  he  was,  through  the  kindness  of  captain  Bolton,  en- 
tered into  the  university  of  St.  Andrew's.  His  father  dying  in  the  following  summer,  he  became  dependant 
upon  the  bounty  of  his  friends:  but  his  spirit  shrunk  from  being  an  object  of  charity ;  and  a  second  lieute- 
nancy in  the  23d  or  Royal  Welch  Fusileers  being  offered  to  him,  he  accepted  it  with  transport  His  com- 
mander was  that  brave  and  blunt  veteran^  general  John  Huske.  Arriving  in  London,  our  young  soldier,  as 
he  confessed,  sunk  to  the  lowest  propensities,  and  rose  to  the  sublimest  delights  of  his  nature.  But  he  waa 
soon  ordered  to  join  the  memorable  expedition  commanded  by  admirals  Byng  and  West,  and  intended  to  re- 
lieve the  besieged  garrison  of  St.  Philip  in  Minorca.  On  his  return,  his  regiment  was  ordered  to  India ;  but. 
disliking  the  army,  he  tendered  his  resignation  in  November,  1757. 

When  Mr.  Stockdale  returned  into  the  north,  he  visited  the  Rev.  Dr.  Thomas  Sharp,  archdeacon  of  North- 
umberland, who  advised  him  to  enter  into  holy  orders ;  and  in  the  year  1759$  he  was  ordained  deacon  by  Dr. 
Trevor,  bishop  of  Durham,  He  then  went  to  London  as  the  sul^stitute  of  Mr.  Sharp  in  the  curacy  and  lec- 
tureship of  Duke's-place.  Here  he  enjoyed  the  society  of  Garrick,  Dr.  Johnson,  Dr.  Brown,  Goldsmith, 
Hawkesworth,  lord  Ly ttleton,  and  otI\ers  of  the  like  literary  and  moral  dignity ;  yet  he  again  waged  a  deter- 
mined war  against  his  credit  and  happiness.  He  afterwards,  for  a  short  time,  became  curate  to  Mr.  Thorp, 
vicar  of  Berwick.  Returning  to  London,  and  being  without  any  church  employment,  he,  in  1 767$  embarked 
for  Italy,  and  resided  two  years  at  VIlIa-Franca,  where  he  read  and  wrote  very  assiduously.  When  he  re- 
visited London  in  1769^  he  translated  Task's  Aminla  with  singular  felid^.  The  booksellers  conceiving  a 
high  opinion  of  his  talents,  he  was  appointed  successor  to  Dr.  Guthrie,  in  the  management  of  the  *'  Critical 
Review.'*  He  also  wrote  a  very  elegant  life  of  Waller  the  poet,  for  Davis,  and  translated,  for  the  same 
publisher,  the  "Antiquities  of  Greece,  from  the  Latin  of  Lambert  Bos."  In  1771 »  he  compiled  the  "Uni- 
versal Magasine:"  and  in  1773,  he  published  three  sermons;  one  on  Universal  Benevolence,  and  two  against 
Luxury  and  Dissipation.  In  the  summer  of  this  year  appeared  his  most  distinguished  work,  "  The^Poet,"  a 
poem,  which  received  the  warm  approbation  of  Garrick,  and  procured  him  ihe  fiiendsliip  of  lord  Irfmsdowne. 


860  GLENDALE  WARD.— W,  D. 

nity  Sunday,  June  21,  1524,  five  hundred  footmen  passed  the  T^reed  at  diff^nt 
fords,  and  lay  concealed  in  the  hollows  near  the  highway,  with  a  viey/*  of  intercepting 
the  traders  and  others  going  to  a  fair,  which  commenced  that  day  m  Berwick.  They 
made  many  prisoners,  ana  obtained  considerable  booty.  The  alarm  spread,  the 
Northumbrians  flew  to  arms,  and  hastened  to  the  attack,  and  being  joined  by  the 
young  lord  of  Fowberry,  at  the  head  of  one  hundred  horse,  a  fierce  skumish  ensued 
at  Branxton,  in  which  the  Scots  were  defeated,  and  the  victors  returned  with  twp 
hundred  prisoners. 

Flodden,  the  oelebrated  seene  of  the  decisive  battle  mentioned  above,  is  a  hill  at 
a  short  distance  to  the  south-east  of  Branxton.  Here  the  gallant  James  IV,  king  of 
Scotland^  stationed  his  army  previous  to  the  memorable  conflict  in  which  he  was  sa* 

At  this  time^  Mr.  Stockdale  procured  the  chaplainship  of  the  Resolution,  a  guardship  of  74  guns,  stationed  at 
Spithead.  He  remained  attached  to  that  ship  for  three  years^  during  whidi  time,  besides  some  minor  poems^ 
he  translated  into  English,  Sabbatier's  "  Institutions,  Customs,  and  Manners  of  the  ancient  Nations,"  and  com- 
piled six  Sermons  to  Seamen.  Some  time  afterwards,  he  wrote  an  "  Essay  on  the  Writings  and  Genius  of 
Pope,**  against  the  Essay  by  Wharton  on  the  same  subject.  This  performance  met  with  the  warm  approba- 
tion of  Gibbon  and  Burke.  In  1778j  he  was  introduced  to  the  celebrated  novelist.  Miss  Bumey,  who,  it  is 
said,  drew  the  Belfield  of  her  admirable  "  Cecilia"  from  the  animated,  in^^enious,  and  eccentric  Stockdale* 
After  this,  he  wrote  several  political  letters,  with  the  signature  of  Agricola,  in  the  "  Public  Advertiser,",  was 
a  short  time  tutor  to  the  late  lord  Craven's  eldest  son,  and  next  became  curate  of  Hineworth  in  Hertfordshire, 
where  he  wrote  fifteen  sermons.  In  1782>  he  took  priesfs  orders,  and  wrote  his  "Treatise  on  Education.** 
During  the  succeeding  autumn,  lord  Thurlow,  the  lord  chancellor,  presented  him  with  the  living  of  Lesbuiy^ 
to  which  the  duke  of  Northumberland  added  that  of  Longhoughton.  Here  Mr.  Stockdale  wrote  his  tragedy 
of  "Ximenes."  But  the  bleakness  of  the  climate  injuring  his  health,  he,  in  1787>  accepted  an  invitation  from 
his  friend,  Mr.  Matra,  British  consul  at  Tangier,  to  pass  some  time  with  him  under  its  more  genial  sky.  On 
his  return  in  1790,  he  wrote  an  elaborate  ^^  History  of  Gibraltar,"  which,  in  a  fit  of  despondency,  he  threw 
into  the  fire  f  But  he  soon  resumed  his  &tudie8,  and  composed  two  poems,  ''  The  Banks  of  the  Wear/'  and 
"The  Invincible  Island;"  and,  in  1807,  he  completed  and  published  his  "Lectures  on  the  Poets."  His 
''  Memoirs"  was  hi^  next  publication.  They  were  written  under  the  pressure  of  extreme  debility  and  nervous 
irritation,  and  were  dedicated  to  the  ingenious  Miss  Porter^  whose  warm  and  disinterested  friendship  soothed 
him  under  the  severest  sufferings.  In  1808,  Mr.  Stockdale  paid  his  last  visit  tQ  the  metropolis,  and  returned 
to  Lesbury  in  the  autumn  of  1810,  at  which  time  the  writer  saw  this  erratick>  impetuous,  and  benevolent  man^^ 
who  then  seemed  oppressed  with  age  and  cares,  and  to  be  under  the  sole  guidance  of  an  active  female  do^ 
inestic,  He  died  on  the  l4*th  September,  1811,  and  was  buried  near  the  remains  of  his  parents  at  ComhilK 
The  volatile  Stockdale  seems  to  have  been  generally  unfortunate  in  his  te^nder  connexions.  An  old  formal 
lady  resided  many  years  at  Alnwick,  understood  to  be  Mrs.  Stockdale*  When  met  accidentally  by  her  former 
admirer,  she  was  always  acknowledged  by  marks  of  the  most  profound  politeness.  The  writer  recollects 
reading  somewhere  an  anecdote  of  Mr.  Stockdale,  when  on  a  visit  at  lord  Greys,  with  the  celebrated  Mr.,  R. 
B.  Sheridan.  The  reverend  author  pressing  a  volume  of  his  poems  upon  the  notice  of  Mr.  Sheridan  with 
impertinent  perseverance,  the  wit  at  length  topk  the  book,  glanced  oyer  it  hastily,  then  witti  his  pencil  wrot^ 
upon  a  blank  leaf,—? 

^'  It's  tag,  rag,  and  bobtail, 

The  mad  works  of  Stockdale," 
and  returned  the  poems.    The  mortified  author  remained  sileut  during  the  rest  of  the  evening, 


BRAZirXTON  PARISH.  861 

crifioed  to  his  impetuous  valour.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Battle  of  Branxton,  but 
more  generally  the  Battle  of  Flodden. 

King  James  had  entered  Northumberland  with  a  l^werful  army,  and  ravaged  the 
Borders.  But  he  wasted  so  much  time  at  Ford,  captivs2i:ed;  as  it  is  said,  by  the  daugh- 
ter of  Sir  William  Heron,  as  to  give  his  enemies  opportunity  of  advancing  to  the 
north,  whilst  the  spirits  of  his  army  subsided,  and  its  numbers  diminished. 

On  August  80,  1513,  the  earl  of  Surrey  arrived  at  Newcastle,  at  the  head  of  twen- 
tT--six  thousand  men.  In  passing  through  Durham,  he  obtained,  from  the  prior  of 
uie  convent,  the  banner  of  St.  Cuthbert,  to  be  displayed  for  the  purpose  of  animating 
the  zeal  and  courage  of  his  northern  troops.  Being  joined  by  Ix)rd  Dacres  and  seve- 
ral other  noblemen,  he  proceeded  to  Alnwick ;  but  sensible  of  the  ^ificulty  of  sub- 
sisting his  army  in  a  barren  desolated  countrv,  and  during  a  severe  season,  he  resolved, 
if  possible,  to  bring  matters  to  the  decision  or  a  battle.  Accordingly  an  herald  (Rouge 
Croix)  was  sent  from  Alnwick  on  the  4th  of  September,  offering  the  king  battle,  to 
justify  the  death  of  Andrew  Barton,  of  which  he  had  been  accused,  and  saying,  that 
as  he  had  expected  no  quarter  from  his  enemies,  so  he  would  give  none,  unless  to  the 
king  himself,  if  he  should  fall  into  his  hands.  These  fierce  challenges  answered  the 
purpose  for  which  they  appear  to  have  been  sent.  The  king,  thought  it  would  wound 
nis  nonour  to  refuse  them,  and  therefore  immediately  dispatched  one  of  his  own  he- 
ralds, (Ilay)  contrary  to  the  advice  of  his  nobles,  promising  to  meet  Surrey  in  the  field 
of  battle*.  The  impolicy  of  this  declaration  was  urged  with  so  much  vehemence  by 
the. old  earl  of  An^s,  that  the  king  told  him,  if  he  was  afraid  he  might  ^o  home. 
The  earl,  judging  it  repugnant  to  his  honour  to  fight  under  the  standard  of  a  prince 
fh>m  whom  he  had  received  so  great  an  affront,  requested  and  obtained  his  dismission : 
but,  as  pledges  of  his  loyalty  and  good  affection,  left  behind  him  two  of  his  scms,  and 
a  considerable  body  of  his  name  and  kindred. 

But  although  these  remonstrances  of  James's  nobles  availed  nothing  to  shake  the 
king's  resolution  of  awaiting  his  enemies,  yet  his  sense  of  the  inferiority  of  his  num- 
bers, and  the  reluctance  of  his  great  men  to  advance  any  farther  into  England^ 
determined  him  to  make  choice  of  an  advant^eous  situation  for  his  army,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Ford.  This  was  the  hill  of  Modden,  lying  over  against  that  place 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Till,  westward.  It  is  the  last  and  lowest  of  those  eminences 
that  extend  on  the  north-east  of  the  great  mountain  of  Cheviot,  towards  the  low 
grounds  on  the  side  of  the  Tweed ;  from  which  the  river  Flodden  is  distant  about 
four  miles.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  it,  from  the  side  of  the  river  TiU,  where  it  runs 
in  a  northerly  direction,  just  by  the  foot  of  the  declivity  on  which  the  castle  and  vil- 
lage of  Ford  stands,  is  about  half  a  mUe ;  and  over  the  Till,  at  that  place,  there  is  a 
bridge.  On  the  south  of  Flodden  lies  the  extensive  and  very  level  plain  of  MiMeld» 
having  on  its  west  side  high  hiUs,  the  branches  of  Cheviot ;  on  the  north,  Flodden 
and  other  moderate  eminences  adjoining  to  it ;  on  the  south  and  east,  a  tract  of  rising 
grounds,  near  the  foot  of  which  is  the  slow  and  winding  course  of  the  Till.    The 

*  **  The  trewe  enoountre  or  Batajle  lately  don  betwene  Englade  and  Soodande  In  whiche  batayle  the 
Scottshe  Kynge  was  alayne;"  oneof  the  first  and  rarest  specimens  of  the  tjpognqphical  art,  has  been  reprinted 
a  few  months  ago^  by  Mr.  William  Garret,  of  Newcastle. 

VOL.  I.— (16)  4  Y 


$69  GLENDALE  WABD.-^W.  D. 

nearest  approach  of  the  English  aimy  towards  Flodden  was  through  this  plain»  in 
every  part  whereof  thejr  would  have  been  in  full  view  of  the  Scots ;  and  ttie  latter 
had  a  great  advanta^  m  poMessin^  an  eminaiee,  which,  on  the  side  towards  the  £ng- 
lisby  had  a  long  dechvity,  with  hoUow  and  marshy  grounds  at  its  foot ;  while  the  top 
of  it  was  such  an  extent  of  almost  level  ground  as  would  have  sufficed  for  drawmg 
up  in  good  order  the  forces  that  occupied  it. 

Surrey  sensible  of  these  advanta^  on  the  part  of  his  enemies,  and  being  now  en- 
camped on  Wooler-haugh,  to  whidi  he  had  marched  on  Tuesday  the  sixth  of  Sep- 
temb^,  in  order  of  batue,  from  Bolton,  sent  by  a  herald  a  letter  to  the  Scottish  king, 
reproaching  him  with  not  abiding  by  his  promise  of  giving  battle,  by  removing  into  a 
situation  more  like  a  fortress  or  camp  than  an  equal  field  for  the  engagement  of 
armies.  He  therefore  desired  the  king  to  come  down  from  his  heights,  and  to  be 
vdth  his  army  on  the  day  following,  on  the  side  of  MiUfield  plain  nearest  to  his  pre* 
sent  situation.  But  this  message  failed  of  the  effect  that  Surrey  hoped  for.  The 
Quixotism  of  the  king  that  prompted  him  to  embrace  so  ea^rly  the  former  challenge, 
was  either  abated  by  succeeding  cooler  reflections,  or  an  insuperable  bar  was  put  by 
the  opposition  of  his  noUes  to  his  abandoning  his  present  advantageous  situation* 
He  refused  to  admit  Surrey's  herald  to  his  presienoe ;  but  having  sent  one  of  his  ser^ 
vants  to  receive  his  message,  he  answered  by  the  same  servant,  mat  it  became  not  an 
earl  to  behave  in  that  manner  to  a  king ;  but  that  he  himself  would  use  no  sinister 
arts  of  conquering,  nor  did  he  trust  to  the  advantage  of  any  ground.  Surrey  havii^ 
roottved  this  answer,  and  his  army  being  reduced  to  neat  straits  for  want  of  nrovi. 
sions,  was  obliged  to  try  another  method  of  bringing  the  Scots  to  battle.  With  this 
view,  having  passed  the  Till  near  the  place  where  he  encamped,  he  marched  through 
difficult  grounds  on  the  east  side  of  it ;  and  stopped  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bar« 
moor-wood,  about  two  miles  distant  from  the  Scottish  army,  where  he  spent  the 
night.  A  little  hill  on  the  east  of  Ford  covered  the  English  army  from  the  observa* 
tion  of  their  enemies ;  whilst,  from  this  aninenoe,  the  Lord  Admiral  obtained  a  dis« 
tinot  view  of  aQ  the  Scottish  army,  aii0  of  all  theeminences  near  it.  The  next  mom* 
ing  the  English  made  some  marches  to  amuse  the  enemy,  and  then  gained  the  ground 
which  cut  off  James's  retreat  to  Soodand.  By  this  podtion  of  his  forces,  Siurey  had 
access  opened  to  the  Scottish  camp,  much  less  difficult  and  dangerous  than  on  the 
other  doe  of  Flodden.  The  batteries  raised  by  the  Scotdi  to  command  the  bridge  dt 
.  tlM(  Ford,  c^  which  the  vest^es  still  remain,  were  now  rendered  of  no  use.  The 
Soote,  dehided  either  by  the  treacherous  advice  of  one  Giles  Musgrave,  who  engaged 
the  king's  confidence,  and  abused  the  royal  ear,  or  dependii^  that  Surrey,  by  his  mode 
ci  marchinff  the  army,  intended  to  gain  Berwick,  and  avoia  a  battle,  appeared  now  to 
be  confounded  by  the  manoeuvres  of  the  English,  which  bespoke  their  determinatioii 
to  come  to  an  engagement ;  in  order  to  receive  them  with  the  greater  advantage^  and 
to  gun  the  CTound  they  supposed  the  English  would  attempt  to  possess,  on  the  wesit* 
em  side  of  the  hill,  the  Scots  set  fire  to  their  hute  on  the  eastern  side,  and  made  a 
motion  to  the  west.  The  smoke  being  driven  between  the  armies,  concealed  the  pro. 
gress  the  English  were  making,  till  they  had  almost  gained  the  foot  of  the  hill,  Sur« 
rey  observed  t^  confUtioii  his  approach  had  occaskined  among  the  Scotch  troopsi 


BRANXTON  PARISH.  S6» 

and  finding  the  ascent  of  the  hall  short  and  moderately  steep,  determined  not  to  delay 
the  onset 

The  English  were  disposed  in  three  divisions ;  the  van  under  Thomas  Howard,  the 
general's  eldest  son.  Lord  Admiral  of  England,  the  right  wing  being  led  by  Sir  Ed- 
mmid  Howard,  brother  to  Lord  Thomas,  and  knight  marshal  of  the  army.  The 
middle  division,  or  main  battle,  was  led  by  the  Earl  of  Surrey  in  person,  and  the  rear 
by  Sir  Edward  Stanley.  Lord  Dacres  commanded  a  body  of  reserve,  consisting  of 
horsemen.  The  ordnance  was  played  in  the  front  of  the  battle,  a|id  in  the  openings 
of  the  several  divisions.  After  they  had  passed  the  little  brook  of  Sandyford^  the 
Lord  Admiral  perceiving  the  Scots  approaching  towards  him,  drawn  up  in  four  great 
bodies,  armed  with  long  spears,  like  Moorish  pikes,  sent  to  his  father  tne  Agnus  Dei 
that  hung  at  his  breast,  as  a  token,  accompanying  a  request,  that  as  the  van  of  the 
army  was  not  sufficiently  strong  or  extensive  to  receive  the  brunt  of  the  whole  Scot- 
tish army,  his  father  would  bring  up  l^e  forces  of  his  division,  and  range  them  in  a 
line  with  the  van.  The  English  eeneral,  convinced  of  the  expediency  of  this  dispo^ 
sition,  immediately  came  forward  with  fads  forces,  and  drew  them  up  to  the  left  of 
those  of  his  son. 

The  mode  in  which  the  Scots  advanced  to  battle  is  variously  described.  Compar- 
ing the  several  accounts,  it  seems  most  probable  that  the  battiuia  was  thus  arranged : 
The  van  of  the  Scotch  army  led  on  die  right  by  Alexander  Gordon,  earl  of  Hunttey ; 
and  on  the  left  by  the  earls  of  Crawford  and  Montrose,  and  some  say  Lord  Hume : 
the  King  was  in  the  centre  or  main  body.  A  third  division  was  commanded  by  the 
earls  of  Lenox  and  Argyle,  with  whom  were  Mackenzie,  Maclean,  and  the  High- 
landers. Adam  Hepburn,  earl  of  Bothwell,  with  his  kindred  and  dan,  and  the  men 
of  Lothian,  f<»ned  a  body  of  reserve.    They  bad  with  them  a  large  train  c^  artillei^. 

The  English  artiUerv  began  to  pky,  whidi  made  a  dreadful  carnage,  whilst  the 
Scotch  cannon*,  from  their  high  situation,  took  little  or  no  effect,  the  shot  going  over 
the  heads  of  the  EngHsh.  This  obliged  the  Scotch  to  advance,  the  earls  of  £enox 
and  Argyle,  together  with  Lord  Hume,  moving  with  a  body  of  ten  thousand  spear- 
men, supported  by  some  horse,  down  the  hiD  towards  Branxton,  made  a  fierce  attack 
on  the  whig  commanded  by  Sir  Edmund  Howard.  The  shock  was  violent,  the  Scots 
prevailed,  and  Sir  Edmund  was  reduced  to  the  last  extremi^,  himself  beaten  to  the 

Sound  the  third  time,  and  in  imminent  peril  of  death,  when  Lord  Dacres,  and  Heron 
e  Bastard,  who  had  joined  the  English  army  with  a  troop  of  fierce  oi;itilaws,  his  fok 
lowers,  came  in  time  to  his  resene.    Sir  Edmund,  thus  relieved,  immediat^  joined 

*  CannoDf,  as  was  before  observed^  wer*  fiftt  made  «f  iron  ban^  eneompamed  with  faoopa.  Tbej  wera 
also  made  occasionally  of  leather^  lined  with  plates  of  brass.  The  camion  or^:uially  were  very  large ;  tlie 
gunpowder  in  use  at  that  time  being  weak.  An  old  cannon,  called  Mons-meg,  oapable  oCholdfaig  within  it 
two  persons,  was  carried  from  Edinburgh  castle  to  London  about  the  midcUe  of  the  last  century  j  uid  a 
Frenchman,  who  died  about  the  year  1403;  says,  that  cannon,  in  his  time,  were  fifty  feet  long.  The  Ifcer.  B. 
Lambe,  late  vicar  of  Norham,  mentions  an  iron  ball  dOlb.  weight,  which  was  dug  oat  of  the  ground  at  Sandy^i 
bank.  In  1 S 11 ,  a  ball  of  cast  iron,  weighing  QSHb.  was  also  found  in  the  ruins  of  Berwiek  Castle.  It  htJi 
penetrated  the  castle  wall  about  three  yards,  at  a  place  where  it  was  flanked  with  a  tower,  frhvdb  muet  Hkp^ 
been  first  penetrated,  and  of  which  there  were  sufBcient  remains  %o  ascertaiti  the  ihct 


S64  GLENDALE  WARD,— W.  D. 

the  body  commanded  by  his  brother  l^ord  Thomas,  and  they  advancing  against  the 
earls  of  Crawford  and  Montrose,  whose  troops  were  armed  with  spears,  put  them  to 
the  route,  and  both  the  earis  were  slain.  On  the  other  side  of  the  field^  Sir  William 
Stanley,  with  the  forces  from  Lancashire  and  Cheshire,  being  bowmen,  forced  the 
Scots  to  break  their  array,  and  descend  to  closer  fight,  in  more  even  ground,  where 
they  were  soon  thrown  into  ccmfusion,  and  put  to  flight,  after  leaving  the  earls  of 
Argyle  and  Lenox  with  the  slain.  The  English  attributed  this  success  to  the  ardiers; 
but  the  Scotch  writers  alledge,  'that  the  miscarriage  of  this  part  of  their  army  was 
owing  to  the  undisciplined  ferocity  of  the  Highlanders,  who,  animated  by  the  success 
of  the  attack  made  on  that  wing  of  the  Engush  army  commanded  by  Sir  Edmund 
Howard,  could  not  be  restrained  from  rushing  impetuously  forward,  in  an  irregular 
and  open  manner,  notwithstanding  the  signals,  cries,  and  menaces,  of  the  French  am- 
bassador, La  Motte,  who  perceived  the  consequ^ice  of  such  an  imjH-oper  and  loose 
attack.  The  King  of  Scotland,  whose  bravery,  kindled  to  extravagance  of  courage 
at  the  perils  which  now  seemed  to  surround  him,  deaf  to  every  amp^ice  and  remon- 
strance, pressed  forward,  and  exposed  his  royal  person  to  all  the  dangers  of  the  field : 
being  sustained  by  Both  well  and  the  reserve,  he  charged  on  foot,  at  the  head  of  the  best 
of  his  troops,  whose  armour  resisted  the  arrows  of  the  English  archers ;  he  pressed 
forward  to  the  standards  of  the  Earl  of  Surrey,  and  with  such  ardour  and  valour,  that 
they  were  nearly  gained  by  this  heroic  phalanx :  but  at  length  the  wings  of  the 
Scotch  army  being  totally  routed,  all  the  English  forces  were  employed  against  this 
vatiant  band,  who  were  surrounded  by  the  coming  in  of  Lord  Dacre's  horse  in  the 
rear*. 

^  The  Royal  Bm^h  of  Selkirk,  so  called  irom  the  Celtic  Shdtckgrich,  ngnifying  the  Kirk  in  the  Forest^ 
staiub  OD  an  eminence  below  the  union  of  the  £tterick  and  Yarrow^  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  their 
junction  with  the  Tweed  Eighty  of  the  citizens  of  this  burgh^  headed  by  William  Brydone,  the  town  clerks 
fought  gallantly  at  Flodden.  ,  These  heroes  were  mostly  souters,  or  shoemakers,  and  few  retired  from  the 
slaughter.  On  conferring  the  freedom  of  the  burgh,  four  or  five  bristles^  such  as  are  used  by  shoemakers, 
are  attached  to  the  burgess-ticket.  These  the  new-made  burgess  must  dip  in  his  wine,  and  pass  through  his 
mouth,  in  token  of  respect  for  the  Souters  of  Selkirk.  The  town  was  totally  destroyed  after  the  disastrous 
brittle  of  Flodden.     There  is  an  old  ballad  beginning  with— 

f  Up  with  the  Souters  of  Selkirk, 
*^  And  down  wi'  the  earl  of  Home,"— 

which  gives  countenance  to  a  popular  calumny  that  taxed  Lord  Hume  with  being  the  murderer  of  his  sove- 
reign, as  well  as  the  cause  of  the  loss  of  the  battle.  But  the  signal  boldness  and  success  of  that  nobleman  at 
the  commencement  of  the  battle,  with  the  number  of  Humes  slain,  sufficiently  refute  these  accusations.  The 
Soots  deemed  it  dishonourable  to  have  survived  the  disgraceful  defeat,  and  the  song  may  have  been  in* 
toided  to  censure  him  in  this  point  of  view.  A  standard,  taken  fimn  the  English  by  a  weaver  of  Selkirk,  in 
the  field  c^  Flodden,  is  annually  exhibited. 

Another  little  band  of  heroes  that  fought  at  Flodden,  is  thus  mentioned  by  that  master  of  legendary  lore.  Sir 
Walter  Soott : — ''  Under  the  vigorous  administration  of  James  IV.  the  young  earl  of  Caithness  incurred  the 
penalty  of  outlawry  and  forfeiture,  for  revenging  an  ancient  feud.  On  the  evening  preceding  the  battle  of 
Flodden,  accompanied  by  SQO  young  warriors,  arrayed  in  green,  he  presented  himself  before  the  king,  and 
submitted  to  his  mercy.  This  mark  of  attadmaent  was  so  agreeable  to  that  warlike  prince,  that  he  granted 
an  immunity  to  the  earl  and  all  his  followers.    The  parchment,  on  which  this  immunity  was  inscribed,  is 


BHANXTON  PARISH.  S65 

This  HiemovaMe  bftttik  iiegan  at  fbar  o'dock  in  the  Mtbeanoatk,  amd  oonthmed  till  it 
was  dark.  King  James  IV.  was  slain,  with  his  natwd  «on,  die  accGniplished  bishop 
<rf  St  A^ndrew'Sy  and  the  flowca-  of  the  oaobility.  On  ohserving  tihat  the  day  Was 
against  lliem,  the  old  Seottifib  wamois»  disdiaining  to  fly^  were  determined  to  sell  their 
lives  as  dear  as  possible.  When  tbeir  bdoved  kui^  was  perceived  to  be  in  imminent 
drniger,  those  near  his  person  formed  tibemsdves  m  ciioular  order,  and  all  fell  by  the 
Bword,  except  Sir  William  Soott  vnd  Sir  Jobn  Foreman,  who  were  taken  prisoneits. 

During  the  night  the  banditd  of  Tindale  and  Tiviotdale,  who,  like  birds  of  prey, 
had  been  hoyering  in  the  neigfaboorhood,  were  CTaployed  in  rifling  the  tents  and 
stealing  the  horses  of  the  EngU^.  When  the  light  of  day  returned,  the  fidds  were 
seen  \i(%olly  evacuated  by  the  Scots ;  and  their  cannon,  in  number  twenty-two,  stOMwl 
deserted  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  among  which  were  seven  fine  culverins,  from  the 
sameness  of  their  make  and  size  called  the  Seven  Suters.  The  English  immediately 
returned  soldkm  thanks  to  heaven,  and  their  general  created  on  the  field  thirty-five 
knights. 

The  heaps  of  slain  were  next  examined,  aimong  whieh  the  dead  body  of  the  king 
was  -disoovered  4n  the  midst  of  a  circle  of  his  nolmxty*.  He  was  found  by  Lord  Da* 
cares,  who  was  well  aoouainted  with  his  person.  After  ihe  royal  remains  were  re* 
moved  to  Berwick,  Sir  William  Scott  and  Sir  John  Foreman,  prisoners  there»  ac- 
knowledged the  body  of  their  late  sofvereign.  He  was  wounded  in  many  partSi 
and  pierced  by  several  arrows ;  his  left  hand  was  also  severed  frokn  the  ann  by  two 
several  wounds,  and  his  neck  was  laid  open  to  the  middle.  The  body  of  the  martidi 
James  was  emlMdmed,  closed  in  lead;  and  amongst  other  things  secretly  conveyed  to 
NewcMtle.  From  thence  it  was  caiiied  to  Ijondon,  and  socm  aftarwards  interred  in 
the  monastry  of  Sheen,  in  Sutrey,  v^ter  excommunication  was  taken  off,  cm  re. 
presentation  that  'h^  gttve  «iffns  -of 'repentance  in  his  last  moments.  Pope  Leo  X.  earw 
4ies%  requested  Henry  Vlll.  to  allow  the  body  of  Jamei  to  be  buned  with  xoyal 

Mid  to  be  8tin  preserved  in  the  archives  of  the  earls  of  Caithness^  and  is  marked  with  the  drum-strings^  havt 
ing  been  Mt  out  of  a  dnusKhead,  at  no  •dier^fifctflMnant  coald  be  ^nd  in  the  army.  The  earl  and  bis  gal- 
lent  babd  pstfehed, » to  a  -vmai,  in  tbe  battle  of  FleddeD  ;  since  wlii^  period,  it  ^has  been  reckoned  unludty  m 
Cakkoesi  to  tfiMtr^teen  orcron  the  Ord  on  a  Jllimdki)f,.thB  dajr  of  the  weak  on  whieh  ti»e  cbieflbvn  advmetd 
Into  ButberianEL" 

*  Mr,  I^ejtiMb  ia  U*  auUinie  aad  terrific  Ode  on  Tisitiog  Floddan^  iTr1aim|- 

<^  Ijo!  bunCiBg  flrom  Ifaair  common. toaib| 

liie  spirits  of  tlM  andent.  dead 
Dimty  streak  tfaeparted  gloom. 

With  awfol  ftces,  ghastly  red ; 
As  mm^  ansial  their  martiai  kiqg^ 
They  closed  the  death-devoted  riog^ 

With  daantless  hearts,  unknown  to  yield  ; 
In  «low  proeesrion  rottnd  the  pile 
Of  heaving  corses^  liioveB  eeeb  ehado^  iOe, 
Afid  dbaunte,  in  solemn  strainy  the  diige  of  FknUen  Fielzt' 

VOL.  t,  4  Z 


866  GLENDALE  WARB^W.  D. 

honours  in  the  cathedral  of  St.  Paul ;  bat  the  irritBted  tyrant  r^us6d  this  last  mark, 
of  reject  to  the  remams  of  a  gallant  enemy^. 

King  James  was  killed  in  the  Sfith  year  of  hSs  ragn»  and  the  d9th  o£  Ins  age :  he 
was  of  a  maiestic  oountenance»  of  a  middle  dze,  and  a '  strong  body.  By  the  use  of 
exercise,  a  render  diet,  and  much  watching,  he  could  easily  bear  the  extremities  of 
weather,  fatigue,  and  scarcity.  He  excdled  in  fencing,  shooting,  and  riding,  and  de^ 
lighted  in  fine  horses,  the  bibbed  of  which  he  endeavoured  to  propc^te  in  his  own 
country.  He  had  great  skill  in  the  art  of  curing  wounds»^  whrch  was  th^  common 
to  the  Scotch  nobles  always  in  arms.  Possessed  of  a  hi^h  spirit,  of  easy  access^  cour- 
teous and  mild ;  just  in  ms  judicial  decisions,  merciful  m  his  punishments,  which  he 
inflicted  upon  offenders  always  unwillingly,  he  ^oyed  an  unprecedented  degree  of 
popularity.  He  was  poor,  from  his  promsion  in  sumptuous  buildmgs,  public  shows, 
entertainments,  and  mts.  As  long  as  he  lived,  he  ware  an  iron  chain  gwUe^  to  which 
he,  every  year,  added  one  link,  in  testimony  of  his  sorrow  for  having  app^ired  at  the 
head  of  the  rebels,  who  killed  his  father  James  III.  in  1488,  contrary  to  his  express 
orders. — ^Bishop  Lesly  concludes  his  well-written  life  of  James  with  telling  us,  that 
the  Scotch  nation  lost  in  him  a  king  most  warlike,  just,  and  holy.  He  married  Mar^ 
garet,  the  eldest  daughter  of  Henry  VII.  by  whom  he  left  two  sons,  the  eldest  not 
two  years  old.  About  a  year  after  King  James's  death,  she  married  Archibald  Doug<- 
las,  earl  of  Angus,  by  whom  she  had  a  beautiful  daughter,  Margaret,  bom  in  1516, 
at  Harbottle  Qtstib,  in  Northumberland,  afterwards  the  wife  of  Matthew  Stuart,  ear) 
of  Lenox,  and  by  him  mother  to  Henry  Lord  Darnley,  father  to  James  I. 

It  is  impossible  to  ascertain  the  number  of  slain  in  this  fat^tle.  Budbanan  rdat^ 
that  it  appeared,  fnsn  lists  taken  up  throu^  the  several  ooimties  of  the  kingdom, 
that  the  loss  of  the  Scots  exceeded  five  thousand ;  on  the  contnoy,  some  En^iisE  wri* 
ters  affirm,  that  it  was  upwards  of  seventeen  thousand ;  perhaps  the  truth  may  lie  be- 
tween. But  the  quality  of  the  slain  enhanced  this  loss  beyond  expression!,  as,  besides 
the  king,  and  the  bishop  of  St.  Andrew's,  there  fell  two  other  Scotch  prelates,  four 

*  ffonest  Stowe  mentions  the  following  degmi&ng  circnoMtenoes  with  r^gaidtotlie  rojral  xvmains : "— '^  Af>* 
ter  the  battle^  the  bodie  of  the  said  king  being  foond,  was  closed  in  lead,  and  conveyed  fimn  thenoe  to  Loiw 
dipn,  and  to  (he  HKnasterie  of  Sheyne,  in  Sorrey ,  where  it  lenudned  for  a  time,  in  what  order  I  am  not  eer- 
tiine ;  bat,  since  the  dissolution  of  that  hoose,  in  the  reigne  of  Edward  VI.  Henry  Gray,  duke  of  NotfoUra^ 
being  lodged,  and  keeping  house  there,  I  have  been  shewed  the  same  bodie,  so  liqpped  in  lead,  dose  to  the 
head  and  bodie,  throwne  into  a  waste  room,  amongst  the  old  timber,  lead,  and  other  rubbish.  Sinbe  the 
which  time,  workmen  there,  for  their  foolish  pleasure,  hewed  off  his  head;  and  Lancelot  Young,  master  f^ 
zier  to  Queen  Elizabeth,  feeling  a  sweit  savour  to  come  from  thence,  and  seeing  the  same  dried  from  all 
moisture,  and  yet  the  form  remaining,  with  haire  of  the  head,  and  beard  red,  brought  it  to  London,  to  his 
house  in  Wood-street,  where,  for  a  time  he  kept  it,  for  its  sweetness,  but,  in  the  end,  caused  the  sexton  of 
the  cfaurdi  (St.  Michael's,  Wood-street)  to  bury  it  amongst  other  bones  taken  out  of  their  chameU."  Such 
posthumous  respect  do  the  reliqoes  of  princes  receive  I 

f  Abercromby's  list  of  slain  contains  the  following  pawns, .  vis.— Alexander  Stewart,  archbishop  of  St. 
Andrews ;  George  Hepburn,  bishop  of  the  Isles ;  William  Bunsh,  abbot  of  Kilwinning ;  Laurence  Oliphant, 
abbot  of  Inchafiray ;  the  earls  of  Cmwfbrd,  Lenox,  Errol,  Athol,  Mprton,  Axgjle,*  Montrose,  Cassils,  Both- 
well,  Rothes,  Caithness,  Glencaim.    The  lords  Seton,  Maxwell  with  his  three  brothers,  Borthwick,  Sempfll, 


BRANXTON  PARISH.  367 

ibbotd,  twelve  earls^  seventeen  lords,  four  hundred  knights,  and  a  great  number  of 
esduires  and  other  men  of  consequence.  The  English  stated  their  loss  to  have  been 
only  fifteen  hundred ;  and  that  scarcely  an  Engushman  of  considerable  note  was  in- 
duded  in  the  list.  The  disproportion  of  slain  is  generally  attributed  to  the  superi- 
ority of  the  English  artillery  and  bowmen.  The  victorious  earl  of  Surrey*  deposited 
the  standards  tcucen  in  the  field  in  the  cathedral  of  Diu-ham,  and  presented  to  the 
Herald's  office  the  sword  and  dagger  of  the  vanquished  monarch. 

Near  to  the  highest  part  of  the  memorable  hill  of  Flodden  is  a  natural  rock,  called 
the  King's  Chair^  from  which  James  mi^ht  have  enjoyed  a  good  view  of  his  own 
army,  and  of  the  movements  of  the  En^sh. 

Erskine^  Forbes,  Elphinston,  Yester,  St  John's,  Harris,  Innermettth,  Sindair,  Ros,  Dooglas,  master  of  An- 
gus, and  his  brother  Sir  William  of  Glenbervy,  matfCen  of  Rutfaven,  Marshal,  Lova^  Oliphant .  There  are, 
besides,  in  Abercromby's  eatalogoe,  seventeen  knights  and  twenty^five  gentlemen,  heads  of  fiunilies  of  note« 
Besides  the  above,  two  hundred  gentlemen  of  the  name  of  Douglas  fell  in  the  battle.  In  short,  there  was 
scarcely  a  family  of  any  consequence  in  Scotland,  who  had  not  a  member  killed  oa  the  Field  of  Flodden, 

*  Thomas  Howard,  earl  of  Surrey,  was  knighted  for  his  remarkable  courage  at  the  battle  of  Bamet ;  he 
was  made  knight  of  the  Garter  1  King  Richard  HI.  and  was  taken  prisoner  at  the  battle  of  Bosworth,  com- 
mitted to  the  Tower  by  King  Henry  VII.  and  attainted  by  parliament.  King  Henry  asked  him  how  he 
durst  bear  arms  in  behalf  of  that  tyrant,  Richard  ?  To  which  he  answered,  "  He  was  my  crowned  king,  and 
if  the  parliamentary  authority  of  England  set  the  crown  upon  a  stock,  I  will  fight  for  that  stock  ;  and  as  I 
then  fought  for  him,  I  will  fight  for  you,  when  you  are  established  by  the  said  authority."  In  the  rebellion 
against  the  king  by  the  earl  of  Lincoln,  the  lieutenant  of  the  Tower  offered  him  the  keys  of  the  Tower,  in 
order  to  set  himself  at  liberty ;  but  he  replied,  '^  that  he  would  not  be  delivered  by  any  power,  but  by  that 
which  had  committed  him."  After  he  had  been  in  prison  three  years  and  a  half,  the  king  gave  him  his 
liberty ;  and  knowing  his  worth  and  nice  sense  of  honour,  took  him  into  fiivour,  and  delivered  up  to  him  all 
his  estates.  The  earl  took  all  occasions  of  relieving  the  oppressed  subjects,  and  was  accounted  one  of  the*' 
ablest  and  greatest  men  in  the  kingdom.  The  Scots  made  an  irruption  into  England,  and  besieged  Narham- 
castle :  the  earl  raised  the  siege,  took  the  castle  of  Ay  ton,  .and  made  all  the  country  round  a  desart.  Jamea 
IV.  of  Scotland,  incensed  at  this,  sent  a  herald  with  a  challenge  to  him ;  to  which  he  made  a  sensible'  and 
spirited  answer,  **  that  his  life  belonged  to  the  kii^,  whilst  he  had  the  command  of  his  army ;  bat  when  that 
was  ended  he  would  fight  the  king  cm  horseback  or  on  foot;  adding,  that  if  he  took  the  king  prisoner  in  tht 
combat,  he  would  release  him  without  ransom ;  and  that  if  the  king  shookl  vanquish  him,  he  would  tiien 
pay  such  a  sum  fiur  Ihia  liberty  as  was  dbmpelent  for  the  degree  of  an  earL**  In  the  year  1501,  the  earl  was 
lord  high  treasurer.  In  June,  1502,  he  accompanied  Maigaret,  the  king^s  dani^iter,  lo  the  SeoCtiah  oonrt. 
In  1507>  two  years  before  the  death  of  Henry  VIL  the  earl  was  arabaaaador  to  the  king  of  France.  8  Henry 
VIII.  he  was  made  eari  marshal  for  life.  In  151 1>  he  was  one  of  the  commisaionera  at  the  court  of  Am^[«n. 
When  Henry  VIII.  heard  that  the  Soots  were  preparing  to  invade  England,  he  paid, ''  that  he  had  left  a  m^ 
Ueman  who  would  defend  his  subjects  from  insults."  After  the  battle  of  Flodden,  the  earl  himself  presented 
King  James's  armour  to  the  queen  regent  When  the  king  returned  fimn  France,  he  gave  the  earl  m  aug^ 
mentation  of  his  arms,  vis.  to  bear  on  the  bend  the  upper  port  of  a  red  lion,  depicted  in  the  same  manner  aa 
the  arms  of  Scodand,  pierced  through  the  mouth  with  an  arrow.  In  the  year  1514,  the  earl  was  created 
duke  of  Norfolk,  and  a  grant  was  given  him  in  special  tail  of  several  manors.  He  hated  and  opposed  Cardi- 
nal Wolsey,  because  he  advised  the  king  to  pursue  measures  hurtful  to  the  liberties  of  the  people.  FiiMling 
that  this  opposition  availed  nothing,  he  resigned  his  post,  and  retired  from  court.  He  died  in  1524i.-**£ami'| 
Notes  on  the  BaUle  ofFhdden. 


^S88  GLENDALE  WABIX—W.  D. 

As  Sir  -C.  Ha^en^n's  wwkm^  weve  Hgpxig  in  a  field  aear  Floddeo,  in  18I0» 
they  <came  to  a  pit  £lled  with  huiSDan  bones,  aad  which  seemed  of  great  extent;  but 
alanned  at  the  aight  thegr  imflaediately  filled  up  the  eKcavation,  and  piooeeded  no 
further.  Horsley  mentionB  a  fine  seal,  supposed  to  be  Roman,  which  was  found  heNv 
wid  was  in  the  possession  of  the  late  Countess  Cowper. 

FORD  PARISH. 

The  parish  of  Ford  adjoins  Branxton  on  the  west,  Norham  on  the  north,  Lowick 
on  the  east,  and  Doddington  and  Kirknewton  parishes  on  the  south.  It  contains  352 
houses,  and  1607  inhabitants.  Coal,  freestone,  slate,  marie,  and  limestone,  ase  found 
within  its  precincts*  There  are  five  sc^ook  in  this  parish,  viz.  two  at  Ford,  two  at 
£t^  and  one  at  Ciookham,  in  all  of  which  190  <shildr^i  are  usually  taught.  The 
parish  ^es  £  10 ;  Lady  Glasgow  £  10 ;  O.  A.  Askew,  Esq.  £  10 ;  (and  the  late  Lacty 
jDdavsu  gave  £10),  per  annum,  whieh  is  distributed  amongrt  the  sdioolmasters  of  the 
parish,  who  in  return  instruct  a  certain  number  of  poor  children  gratis^ 

Ford, — ^This  village  stands  upon  an  eminence  which  rises  from  the  east  margin  of 
the  Till,  and  consists  of  one  irregular  street.  It  is  distant  about  one  mile  and  a  half 
east  from  the  memorable  hill  of  Flodden*,  and  seven  miles  north-north-west  from 
Wooler.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  St  Michael,  and  is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the 
Marquis  of  Waterford.  On  approaching  this  ancient  place  by  the  road  which  leads 
fh)m  Ford  bridge,  the  view  is  peculiany  beautifid  and  picturesque.  The  most  an- 
cient parts  of  Ford  Castle  appear  in  front,  in  the  midst  of  a  finefy  cultivated  plain ; 
whilst  the  churah,  peeping  out  amongst  the  venerable  and  lofty  trees  that  intervene, 
adds  to  the  beauty  and  richness  of  the  landscape. 

The  Cattle  ^Pord  stands  on  the  west  side  of  the  village.  It  was  built  by  Sir 
William  Heron  in  the  year  1287 ;  and  was  re^edUfied  bv  the  late  Sir  John  Hussev 
'Delaval,  (who  was  afterwards  raised  to  the  peenwe) ;  the  antique  stile  being  w^ 
|>reserved  in  the  design.  Two  old  towers,  one  on  we  east  flank»  and  cme  on  the  west, 
ave  the  only  r^nains  of  the  old  casile  whidi  are  retained  in  this  edifice.  The  work 
was  b^gim  in  the  year  1761,  and  completed  in  two  or  three  jrears.  The  front  is  to 
the  south)  tfa9  eantre  of  which  is  formra  by  a  semi^hexagonal  projeoiioB,  and  Its  tei^w 
Biinaldons  are  square  tufrets ;  from  whence,  cneaeh  hand,  a  repukr  wing  is  advanced. 
On  the  west  »ide  of  the  area  in  front,  is  an  old  square  tower  of  a  singular  fonn,  it  be« 
in^  composed  of  two  tvnrets,  one  rising  abo^e  another ;  the  upper  one  being  so  much 
^8  than  thait  whidi  supports  it,  as  to  aiK^rd  a  spacious  battlement  The  area  is  en*^ 
dosed  by  a  wsU  embrassured  and  gimtished  with  turrets,  the  entrance  to  whidi  is  by 
a  aipadous  gateway :  the  wall  is  defended  by  comer  towers.  The  castle  eommands  a 
fine  prospect  up  the  valley  as  far  as  Wooler,  bounded  by  lofty  eminences,  which 
rt^g  swiftly,  are  broken  in  the  most  agretoble  and  romantic  manner.    To  the  WH^Sfc. 

*  The  hill  of  Ploddsn  is  in  Ford  parish^  but  as  the  buttle  to  itllidi  it  gave  name  ^was  Ktidsily  ibnght,  aan^ 
flnaUy  decid^di*  neftr  Brmxton,  it  has  been  described  tOKhnr  that  divisidn. 


FORD  PARISH.  869 

ward  there  is  a  view  of  Flodden  Hill,  marked  to  the  eye  by  a  plantation  of  firs,  which 
crowns  the  eminence,  and  forms  a  beautiful  object  upon  the  landscape*. 

In  the  year  1385,  the  Scotch,  under  the  earls  of  Fife,  Majrch,  and  Douglas,  making 
an  incursion  by  the  western  Marches,  laid  waste  the  country  as  far  as  Newcastle,  and 
demolished  the  fortress  of  Ford.  Previous  to  the  battle  of  Flodden,  Jameses  troops 
assaulted  and  took  Ford  Castle.  It  was  in  this  place  the  Scotch  king  found  Eliza- 
beth,  the  wife  of  Sir  William  Heron,  (who  was  then  a  prisoner  in  Scotland),  together 
with  their  daughter,  a  lady  of  great  beauty ;  with  whose  charms  the  king  was  so  fas- 
cinated, as  was  before  observed,  that  for  several  days  he  desisted  from  aU  military  ad- 
vances, even  under  the  momentous  circumstance  of  the  Earl  of  Surrey's  hasty  ap- 
proach. It  was  suspected  by  some,  according  to  Drummond,  that  Surrey  being  ac- 
quainted with  the  king's  amorous  constitution,  continued  the  detention  of  the  la^  of 
Ford  and  her  daughter  in  their  castle,  in  order  to  stay  the  advances  of  the  Scotch 
troops,  till  he  could  by  forced  marches  come  up  with  them. 

In  1649,  the  Scotch,  under  the  command  of  D'Esse,  a  French  general  of  great 
military  skill,  made  an  incursion  with  a  considerable  army,  attended  with  four  field- 
pieces  ;  when  he  attacked  the  castle  of  Ford,  and  kid  the  greatest  part  of  it  in  ashes. 
One  of  the  towers,  defended  by  Thomas  Carr,  made  a  gallant  defence,  and  remained 
unreduced. 

Ford  was  the  villa  and  manor  of  Odonel  de  Ford,  1  King  Edward  I.  who  married 
Caecilia,  the  youngest  daughter  and  coheir  of  Robert  de  Muschampe,  baron  of  Wooler. 
Hadstone  was  the  original  seat  of  the  Herons,  from  the  grant  thereof  in  1100,  until 
it  descended,  on  the  decease  of  Sir  William  Heron,  in  the  25th  of  Edward  I.  to  Eme- 
line  HeroUj  his  grand-daughter  and  heir,  afterwards  baroness  Darcy.  But  this  land 
barony  was  forfeited  in  1537,  by  the  attainder  of  Thomas  Lord  Darcy,  her  descendant 
and  heir.  "  Ford,  Crecum,  Kynmerston,  and  Hetpole,  came  to  the  above  Sir  Wil- 
liam Heron  in  right  of  his  mother,  Mary,  the  daughter  and  heir  of  Odonel  de  Ford ; 
and  Bockenfield  granted  to  his  father,  in  1254,  by  Roger  Bertram,  of  Mitford,  with 
other  estates  in  Northumberland,  and  which  on  his  decease  went  to  Roger  Heron, 
his  eldest  surviving  son  and  heir  male."  Sir  William,  the  descendant  of  William 
Heron  and  Mary  de  Ford,  embattled  his  mansion-house  of  Ford,  by  virtue  of  a  licence 
obtained  the  12th  of  Edward  III. ;  and  that  prince,  in  the  14th  year  of  his  reign, 
granted  to  him  and  his  heirs  to  hold  it  per  nomen  castriy  for  the  defence  of  those  parts 
against  the  Scots.  He  also  acquired  a  grant  from  the  crown  of  a  weekly  market  and 
an  annual  fair  at  Ford ;  also  liberty  of  free  warren  in  this  and  his  other  lordships. 
He  was  captain  of  the  castles  of  Bambrough,  Pickering,  and  Scarbrough ;  also  war- 
den of  the  forests  north  of  Trent,  and  high  sheriff  of  IN^prthumberland  for  eleven  years 

• 

*  The  memory  of  Sir  John  Hussey  Delaval  is  highly  honoured  in  Northumberland.  He  employed  his 
ample  wealth  in  cultivating  and  improving  his  estates,  and  in  dispensing  felicity  to  innumerable  families. 
The  country  around  Ford,  which  was  one  continued  sheep- walk,  he  divided  and  indosed  with  excellent 
hedges,  and  clothed  the  bare  hills  with  fine  plantations.  He  also  attempted  to  increase  the  riches  and  popu- 
lation of  the  country  by  the  establishment  of  a  plating-fbrge,  which  he  erected  in  1769,  about  a  mile  farther 
down  the  river,  where  a  large  quantity  of  shovels,  spades,  &c.  were  made,  as  well  for  home  consumption  as 
for  export^ition.  Had  the  scheme  succeeded  according  to  the  benevoleot  views  of  the  proprietor,,  it  woul^ 
have  been  productive  of  many  beneficial  consecjuences  to  this  district, 

VOL.  !•  5  A 


aro  GLENDALE  WARD— W.  D- 

together,  m  the  same  reign.  His  successor.  Sir  William  Hercm,  bad  summoAs  to 
parliament  among  the  barons,  44  King  Edward  III.  He  was  ambassador  to  France; 
and  steward  of  the  king's  household,  in  the  reign  of  King  Henry  IV.  He  died  20th 
Octobar,  5th  of  the  same  reign.  On  the  8th  of  April,  the  year  following,  he  was 
found  by  an  inquisition  to  be  in  possession  of  the  manor  of  Eshot,  and  other  lands, 
at  the  time  of  his  death,  and  that  Sir  John  Heron,  son  of  Sir  John  Heron,  his  bro- 
ther, was  his  successor  and  heir.  This  Sir  John  was  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland, 
19,  20,  22,  30,  35,  Kinff  Henry  VI.  to  whom  he  wais  a  zealous  and  faithful  friend  in 
his  struggles  with  the  house  of  York,  for  which  he  was  attainted,  1  King  Edward 
IV.  His  attainder  was  afterwards  taken  off.  In  the  17th  of  King  Henry  VIII.  Sir 
William  Heron,  of  Ford,  was  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland.  He  died  28th  June, 
27th  King  Henry  VIII.  It  was  then  found  by  an  inquisition,  that  he  was  in  pos- 
session of  the  castles  and  manors  of  Ford,  Eshot,  and  Simonbum ;  and  that  EUza- 
beth  Heron,  a  minor,  daughter  of  his  son,  William  Heron,  killed  by  John  Manners 
of  Etal,  was  his  sole  heir.  She  married  Thomas  Carr,  Esq.  of  Etal,  brother  of  Wil- 
liam Carr,  Esq.  a  representative  in  parliament  for  Northumberland,  31  Queen  Eliza- 
beth. He  possessed  Ford  Castle,  &c.  without  interruption,  till  his  death,  when 
George  Heron,  of  Chipchase,  having  set  up  a  daim  to  these  estates,  under  an  entail 
made  by  Sir  William  Heron  in  the  reign  of  Henrv  VIII.,  the  friends  of  the  two 
parties  immediately  engaged  in  the  contest  with  that  ferocious  spirit  which  usually 
attended  sudh  disputes  on  the  Borders.  On  the  S7th  of  March,  1557*  John  Dixon, 
John  Selby  the  younger,  Robert  Story,  one  Milbum,  and  others  of  the  garrison  c^ 
Berwick,  probably  hired  for  that  purpose,  seized  Ford  Castle  for  Greorge  Heron ;  and 
on  the  following  morning  a  bloody  amay  took  place ;  **  Robt.  Barrowe,  Mayer,  and 
Gyles  Hctou,  Thresorer,  of  Barwyke,  were  crewelly  slayne,  the  Mayer  had  soche 
wounds  he  never  spake  more ;  the  Thresorer  had  xv  blody  woundjg  upon  him."* 
The  daughter  and  heir  of  the  above  Thomas  Carr,  Esq.  married  Sir  Francis  Blakef , 
knight,  whose  daughter,  Mary,  married  Edward  Deiaval,  Esq.  grandfather  of  Sir 
John  Hussey  Deiaval,  Bart. ;  after  whose  death  Ford  was  possessed  by  his  relict. 
Lady  Deiaval.  The  amiable  and  beneficent  character  of  this  excellent  lady  will  be 
long  remembered  and  revered  in  Northumberland.  She  died  in  August,  1822,  when 
this  estate  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Marquis  of  Waterford. 

From  the  baronial  family  of  the  Herons  of  Ford,  were  descended  the  Herons  of 
Chipchace,  Bokenfield,  Meldon,  and  Riplington. 

Etal. — On  leaving  the  ancient  castle  of  Ford»  and  advancing  northward  alonff 
the  road  that  skirts  the  banks  of  the  Till,,  the  beautiful  mansion-house  of  Em 
appears  through  a  fine  avenue  of  trees.     It  is  a  modem  elegant  structure,  and 

*  Lord  Wharton's  Letter  to  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury.  Lodge's  Illustrattons  of  British  History,  vol.  I. 
p.  225. 

t  By  an  inquest  held  at  Hexham,  Uth  October,  l6^B,  Thomas  Carr,  Esq.  was  seized  of  the  castle  and 
manor  of  Ford*  and  appurtenances,  viz.  20  messuages^  10  cottages,  SO  acres  of  land,  50  acres  of  marsh,  80 
acres  of  pasture,  and  200  acres  of  heath  and  furze,  in  Ford,  Hetherslaw,  Crookham,  Fordhill,  Kynerston,  and 
Flodden. 


FORD  PAHISH.  8T1 

belongs  to  the  earl  of  Glasgow.  T^e  ojpenix^g  of  tlie  viUiige  to  the  westward^ 
which  presents  a  prospect  of  the  ,tow^c$  of  the  old  castle  of  th^  family  of  the  Man- 
ners, has  been  desa:Tedly  admired^  as  an  ele^ince  at  once  uncommon  and  pleasing. 
The  view  over  the  vale  by  the  river  Till  is  also  beautiful,  being  graced  with  planta* 
tions,  formed  with  good  taste,  upon  the  surrounding  eminences :  the  distant  scene  is 
mountainous  and  august ;  Watchlaw  towards  the  east ;  the  hiUs  of  Branxton  and 
Flodden  to  the  south-west,  and  beyond  the  Torrs  of  Newton ;  Yevering  Bell,  Che- 
vipts,  Akeld,  and  Humbledon,  are  noble  objects  which  suggest  matter  to  the  contem- 
plative spectator  for  refleetions  the  most  grand  and  in^ressive.  Lord  Wharton  made 
this  place  the  residence  of  the  deputy  warden  of  the  East  Marches  in  1552. 

£tal,  or  Hethal^  was  one  of  the  manors  of  the  barony  of  Wooler,  of  which  it  was 
held  by  the  ancient  and  honourable  family  of  the  Manners,  by  the  service  of  half  a 
knight's  fee.  Henry  de  Maneriis,  25  Kinc  Henry  II.  paid  eighty  marks  for  the 
Uvery  of  his  father's  lands  at  EtaL  From  Uiis  Henry  descended  Robert  de  Man- 
ners, who  was  enacted  a  knight  on  the  field  of  battle  by  Edward  III.  after'  which 
he  is  stiled  Sir  Robert  de  Manners.  He  was  captain  of  Norham  Castle,  and  defeated 
an  attempt  of  the  Scots  to  surprize  the  garrison  on  the  night  of  Edward  III.'s  cora< 
nation*  He  also  contributed  essentially  to  the  d^eat  of  the  Scots  under  the  com- 
mand of  the  earls  of  March  and  Sutherl^d,  on  their  invasion  of  the  Borders  duriiig 
the  14th  year  of  the  same  reign.  In  that  same  year  he  is  mentioned  as  a  representa- 
tive in  parliament  for  Northumberland,  with  Sir  William  Felton.  He  obtained  li- 
cence in  the  following  year,  1341,  to  fortify  his  manor-house  at  Etal,  with  an  embat- 
tled wall  of  lime  and  stone.  He  married  the  daughter  and  heir  of  Sir  Henry  Stro- 
ther,  of  Newton  in  Glendale,  by  whom  he  had  John  de  Manners. 

John  de  Manners  was  constituted  sheriff  of  Northumberland  1  Henry  V.  He^ 
with  his  son  John,  having  killed  William  Heron,  Esq.  and  Robert  Atkinson,  at  this 
place,  they  were  prosecuted  for  the  same  by  Sir  Robert  Umfravile,  knight,  and  Isa- 

*  When  Edward  retimued  from  hia  expedition  into  Scotland  in  1334,  he  kept  the  festival  of  Christmas  in 
the  castle  of  Eoxburgh ;  and  while  he  continned  there,  made  the  following  grant  to  the  gallant  Sir  Robert 
de  Manners :— - 

'^  31  Jan.  9  E.  III.  1^34.*-«Edward^  by  the  grace  of  God,  king  of  England,  lord  of  Ireland,  and  duke  of 
Aquitain^  to  all  whom  the  present  letters  shall  come^  greeting.  Know  ye,  that  for  the  good  service  which 
our  beloved  and  faithful  Robert  de  Manners  to  us  hath  done,  and  yet  is  to  do,  we  have  given  and  granted  to 
the  same  Robert,  as  much  as  in  us  is,  two  parts  of  the  town  of  Paxton,  with  the  appurtenances  in  the  coanty 
of  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  which  were  of  Adam  de  Paxton,  and  Alexander  de  Cheselm^  our  enemies  and 
rebels ;  and  which  two  parts  of  the  town  ^foresaid,  by  the  forfeitures  of  the  af(N*e8aid  Adam  and  Alexander, 
have  come  to  our  hands ;  to  have  and  to  hold  to  the  aforesaid  Robert  and  his  heirs,  of  us  and  our  heirs,  by 
the  service  therefore  due  and  accustomed  for  ever.  In  witness  whereof  we  have  caused  these  our  letters  to 
be  made  patent.  Witness  ourself  at  Rokesburgfa  the  3l8t  day  of  January,  in  the  9th  year  of  our  reign. — By 
writ  of  privy  seal." 

This  grant  was  confirmed  by  John  Prior  d  Durham,  5th  December,  1348,  and  renewed  Sd  October,  1353, 
Sir  Robert  de  Manners  doing  knight  service,  and  paying  all  andent  dues  and  customs  to  the  house  of  Col- 
dingham.  The  ancient  deeds  are  now  in  the  possession  of  James  Fenwick,  Esq.  of  Longwitton,  who  married 
Miss  Manners,  of  Newmoor-hoose,  (formerly  called  Manner  House)  near  Fdton,  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
famllv  of  Manners. 


873  GLENDALE  WARD— W.  D. 

bel,  widow  of  the  said  William  Heron,  and,  after  a  course  of  law,  the  whole  matter 
was  referred  to  John  Prior^  of  Durham,  and  Thomas  Prior,  of  TVnemouth,  who 
made  their  award  Sept.  28,  9  Henry  VI.  to  this  effect.  That  the  said  John  Manners 
and  his  son  should  cause  five  hundred  masses  to  be  sung  for  the  health  of  the  soul  of 
the  said  William  Heron,  within  the  compass  of  one  year  next  ensuing,  and  to  pay  to 
the  said  Isabel,  for  the  use  and  benefit  of  the  children  of  the  said  W  illiam  Heron, 
two  hundred  marks.  This  John  de  Manners  died  Seized  of  the  lordship  of  Etal,  if 
Henry  VI.  leaving  Robert  de  Manners  his  son  and  heir. 

Robert  de  Manners  having  done  some  special  services  in  the  Marches  toward  Scot- 
land, had  a  joint  grant  with  Sir  Henry  Percy,  knight,  of  all  the  goods  and  chattels  of 
Sir  Robert  Ogle,  Knight,  who  was  then  outlawed.  He  was  a  person  of  great  emi- 
nence in  this  county,  and  was  a  zealous  friend  to  the  house  of  York.  He  marched 
at  the  head  of  400  men  to  oppose  the  landing  of  Queen  Margaret  and  her  friends  at 
Bambrough,  whom  he  compelled  to  alter  their  course  for  Berwick,  before  the  fatal 
battle  of  Hexham.  He  was  representative  for  Northumberland  89  King  Henry  VI.; 
and  high  sheriff  of  the  county  4  King  Edward  IV.  He  married  Eleanor,  the  eldest 
daughter  and  coheir  of  Thomas  Lord  Roos,  by  whom  he  had  a  son,  George,  who  was 
his  heir,  and  who  married  Anne,  the  daughter  of  Anne  Duchess  of  Exeter,  by  Sir 
Thomas  St.  Leger,  knight,  by  whom  he  had  issue  Thomas  Lord  Roos,  who  having 
had  livery  of  afl  the  manors,  castles,  and  lands,  which  came  into  his  family  by  Eleanor 
his  grandmother,  and  Isabel  his  aunt,  was  advanced  to  the  titlie  and  dignity  of  the 
Earl  of  Rutland,  June  38,  17  Henry  VIII.  And  because  he  had  his  descent  from 
Lady  Anne,  King  Edward  IV .'s  sister,  this  augmentation  was  given  to  his  ancient 
arms,  viz : — In  chief  quarterly  azure  and  gules,  on  the  first  two  flower-de-luces  or, 
and  on  the  second  a  lion  passant  gardant  of  the  first,  the  third  as  the  second,  and 
fourth  as  the  first.  The  late  Marquis  of  Granby,  nf\d  the  present  Duke  of  Rutland 
are  from  this  ancient  family  of  Etal. 

Sir  Roger  Manners,  knt.  of  this  ancient  family,  an  ornament  of  the  court  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  gave  four  scholarships  to  Corpus  Christi  College,  in  Cambridge.  In  1  Ed- 
ward VI.  Etal  was  possessed  by  Thomas  Carr,  Esq.  famed  for  his  daring  military  ex- 
ploits. After  Lora  Grey  had  ravaged  the  neighbourhood  of  Edinburgh,  in  1548,  he 
returned  into  England,  leaving  at  Haddington  a  garrison  of  two  thousand  foot  and 
five  hundred  horse.  Immediately  after  a  body  of  six  thousand  French  veterans,  un- 
der the  command  of  Sieur  d'Esse,  an  able  and  experienced  commander,  laid  siege  to 
Haddington.  These  troops  displayed  the  most  consummate  skill  and  courage,  but 
the  Englidi  garrison  made  so  resolute  a  defence,  that  the  siege  was  changed  into  a 
blockade.  Thus  situated^  at  a  distance  from  the  English  frontier,  and  in  the  midst 
of  a  hostile  country,  their  fate  appeared  inevitable,  Thomas  Carr,  who  was  then  cap., 
tjpn  of  Wark  Castle,  accompanied  by  9l  few  other  valiant  gentlemen,  and  two  hun* 
dred  horsemen,  however,  passed  into  Scotland,  eluded  detection,  and,  during  the 
night,  entered  Haddington  with  a  most  seasonable  relief.  This  encouraged  Lord 
Grey  to  make  a  similar  attempt  from  Berwick,  but  the  whole  party  was  destroyed, 

Etal  was  found  by  an  inquisition  to  be  in  the  possession  of  the  crown,  10  Queen 
Elizabeth.  It  came  afterwards  into  the  possession  of  Sir  Robert  Carr,  knt  second 
son  of  Sir  William  Carr,  of  Greenhead,  hart,  on  whose  death  it  was  under  sequestra* 
tion  by  the  parliament  for  eleyen  years  and  a  half,  but  was  restored  to  his  son,  WiU 


KIRK  NEWTON  PARISH-  978 


Uam  Cut,  and  Mrs.  Mai^garet  Carr,  on  paying  a  compoeitinsi  of  £  599  Ss.  7d.   IStk 
February,  1653.  , 

The  Right  Hon.  the  Eaxl  of  Errol  married  August  3d,  1762,  Isabella,  daughter  of 
William  Cair,  Esq.  of  Etal.  The  Earl  of  Glasgow  married  Mareh  4,  1788,  Lady 
Augusta  Hay,  sister  to  the  15th  earl  of  Errol,  by  which  mdans  he  came  into  posses- 
ion of  the  seat  and  estate  of  EtaL  The  village  of  Etal  is  exceedingly  pleasant 
Many  of  liie  mhabitants  are  pitmen.  There  is  a  presbytman  meeting-house  at  Uiia. 
place. 

The  northern  part  of  tins  parish*  consists  of  a  highly  cultivated  country,  beauti- 
fully diversified  by  undulating  hills.  Palinsbuen,  the  {>l6asant  seat  of  George 
Adam  Askew,  Esq.  which  is  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Branxtoli,  is  but  one  mue 
from  Etal,  and  serves  to  hei^ten  the  beau4:y  of  this  fine  landscape.  Several  small 
urns  were  ktdy  found  in  this  neighbourhood. 

B&ooMRiBGE. — ^This  village  stands  about  a  mile  south  from  Ford,  and  near  the 
river,  which  here  changes  its  name  from  Breamish  to  Till.  Camden  supposes  this  to 
have  been  the  Srunamurch^  where  Athelstan  the  Great  defeated  the  combined  forces 
o£  Sootlaxid,  Ireland,  and  the  Isles,  assisted  by  a  bait  of  Northmen,  led  by  the  warlike 
Anlaf,  in  tiie  year  928.  This  opinicm  is  questioned  by  other  histcmans ;  but  Mr, 
Wallis  seems  confident  that  the  lines  and  intrenchments  which  are  visible  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Broomridge  were  formed  by  the  brave  and  successful  Athdstan.  This  manor 
was  a  member  of  Koddam.  The  Testa  de  Nevill  mentions  it  as  a  member  of  the 
barony  of  the  earl  of  Dunbar ;  but  is  sifent  ree^peeting  the  famUy,  though  their  names 
occur  in  the  escheats  for  the  year  1264,  as  possessors  of  it.  They  were  a  warlike  fa* 
mily :  Leland  calls  them  **  men  of  fak  kndes  in  Northumberlande,  about  TyUe  ri* 
ver,  ontyl  one  of  them  having  to  wife  one  o£  Umfraville  daugihters,  killed  a  man  of 
name,  and  thereby  lost  the  principle  of  ococ  markes  by  yere,  so  that  at  this  tune 
Rodam,  otherwise  RucUiam>  of  ^rthum^herlattde,  is  but  a  man  of  mene  lands**' 

About  half  a  mile  south  from  Broomridge  is  a  place  caUed  Haltwell-Sweire,  where 
Sir  Henry  Percy  was  defeated  by  tine  Soots,  under  the  command  of  the  esurl  of  Both- 
well,  5  ^een  Mary,  155&  Percy  niade  a  gallant  attack  at  the  head  of  a  thousand 
horse ;  but  his  cavalry,  being  thrown  into  disorder  by  a  sudden  disdiarge  of  fi^re-^ymi 
from  a  party  of  the  ^ots,  fled  in  disorder,  and  were  pursued  over  the  Till.  Bothwell 
took  above  a  hundred  and  twenty  prisoners,  among  whom  were  Errington  and  Ker, 
captains  oi  light  horse. 

KIRK  NEWTON  PARISH. 

This  extensive  parish  constitutes  the  south-west  part  of  Glendale  Ward,  It  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  Roxburghshire ;  on  the  nortn  by  the  parishes  of  Carfaam, 
Branxton,  and  Ford ;  on  the  east  by  Doddington  and  Wooler ;  asnd  on  the  south  by 
the  mountainous  disteicts  which  terminate  Coquetdale  Ward,    It  contains  15  town-. 

*  Sir  William  Carr  left  bj  will,  in  1776,  a  dear  r^nt  charge  of  10/.  per  annum  to  the  poor  of  Ford  parish, 
This  bequest,  in  1786,  was  vested  in  Sir  Robert  Carr,  haxt^^^ParUameniart^  JtetumSj  1788. 

VOL.  I.  SB 


ifi  GLENDALE  WABD— W.  D. 


attended  by  208  children. 


flvenig6 


Kirk  Newton  is  situate  five  miles  west  ncHth-west  from  Wooler.  It  is  a  small 
village,  surrounded  by  lofty  hills,  and  stands  on  the  turnpike  road  leading  from 
Wooler  to  Kelso ;  the  College  Bum  running  at  a  little  distance  to  the  west,  and  the 
river  Glen  on  the  north.  The  church  is  a  vican^e,  dedicated  to  St.  Gregixy,  and 
belonged  to  the  priory  of  Kirkham. 

Kirk  Newton  was  one  of  the  manors  of  the  barony  o^  Wark,  of  which  it  was  held 
^  the  ancient  family  of  the  Strothers ;  by  Sir  Henry  Strother,  in  the  rei^s  of  King 
Kdward  II.  and  his  successor ;  by  William  Strother,  in  the  reign  of  Kmg  Edwara 
VI ;  by  Mark  Strother,  Esq.  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  1  King  George  I.  It 
was  afterwards  the  property  of  J  ohn  Strother  Kerr,  Esq.  who  sold  it  to  Sir  Francia 
Blake  of  T  wizell,  ^nofather  to  the  present  baronet  of  tnat  name.  Lanton,  the  seat 
of  John  Davison,  Esq.  is  pleasantly  situated  opposite  to  Kirk  Newton,  on  llie  north 
side  of  the  river  Glen. 

CoPELAND  Castle  stands  on  the  north  brink  of  the  Glen,  and  gave  name  to  a 
distinguished  Northumbrian  family*.  It  was  anciently  part  of  the  barony  of  Wooler, 
and  continued  in  the  family  of  Robert  de  Muschampe  to  the  34th  King  Henry  III. 
It  afterwards  became  the  estate  and  seat  of  the  ancient  familv  of  the  WaUacesf ;  of 
Edward  Wallace,  in  the  reign  of  King  Edward  II. ;  of  William  Wallaee,  in  the  be- 

g inning  of  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  son-in4aw  of  John  Swinbum,  of  Edling;* 
am  Castle,  Esq. ;  of  George  Wallace,  17  King  James  I.  1619>  who  in  that  year  re- 
built the  castle ;  the  date  of  the  year,  and  the  initial  letters  of  his  own  and  his  wife's 
name  are  on  one  of  the  chimney-nieces  in  it ;  of  Htdnh  Wallace,  Esq.  store-keeper  of 
the  garrison/ of  Berwick,  who  sola  it  to  the  late  Sir  Cnaloner  Ogle,  knight,  an  admiral 
in  the  British  navy.  Sir  Chaloner  Ogle  was  son  of  a  younger  line  of  the  Ogles  of 
Kirkley.  His  first  wife  was  sister  of  John  Isaacson,  Esq.  recorder  of  Newcastle; 
second  wife  a  sister  of  Dr.  N.  Ogle.  She  afterwards  married  Lord  Kingston  of  Ire- 
land. Sir  Chaloner  Ogle  left  Copeland  estate  to  the  Kirkley  family ;  and  Nathaniel 
Ogle,  Esq.  sold  it  in  the  year  1806,  to  Matthew  Culley,  Esq. 

MiLLFiELD,  a  small  well-built  village,  the  property  of  Earl  Grey,  is  situated  about 
two  miles  north-east  from  Copdand.     In  the  lOtn  of  Elizabeth,  1568,  Oswald  Mus* 

*  John  de  Coupeland  was  one  of  Uie  twelve  English  knights  chosen  to  meet  Uie  Scotch  commissianers  to 
settle  certain  Border  disputes  in  1248.  It  is  supposed  that  the  celebrated  Northumberland  Esquire,  John  de 
Coupeland,  was  one  of  this  family.  He  took  David  King  of  Soots  prisoner  in  the  battle  of  Durham,  in  1347f 
for  which  he  was  created  a  knight  banneret,  and  bad  500^  a  year  settled  upon  himself  and  heirs.— Pf^iiet' 
^k  InsL  p.  245.     Burn's  WeHmorekmd  and  Cumberland,  wd  l.p.  ^6. 

*  The  original  country  of  the  Wallaces  is  idly  supposed  to  be  Wales :  but  their  progenitors,  under  the 
form  of  Walense,  or  Whaleys,  were  undoubtedly  an  Anglo-Norman  family.  Richard  Walense,  one  of  this 
family,  settled  in  Kyle,  in  Ayrshire,  under  the  first  of  the  Stewarts,  and  named  the  place  Richard-tun.  From 
this  branch  descended  Sir  William  Waleys,  or  Wallace,  the  celebrated  champion  of  his  country's  indepen- 
dj^nce. 


KIRK  NEWTON  PARISH.  875 

« 

€)iaiii{>e  hdd  the  village  of  MiUfield.  This  was  a  ]^oe'  of  royal  residence  for  the 
Saxon  kings  of  Bemicia,  after  the  death  of  the  illustrious  Edwin,  On  the  south  side 
of  the  vUlage  is  a  large  and  beautiful  plain,  famous  fot  the  defeat  of  a  large  body  of 
Scots  before  the  battle  of  Flodden,  by  Sir  William  Bulmer,  of  Brancepeth  Castle, 
who  commanded  the  forces  of  the  bishopric  of  Durham.  The  Scots  had  concealed 
themselves  among  the  broom,  which  then  covered  the  plain.  Five  or  six  hundred  of 
them  were  killed,  and  four  hundred  taken  prisoners.  They  afterwards  called  the  road 
through  the  plain  the  ill  road.  There  is  a  Sunday  school  at  Millfield,  which  is  well 
attended. 

KiLHAM. — ^This  village  is  situate  on  the  north  side  of  Kilham  hills,  three  miles 
north-west  from  Kirk  Newton.  About  two  miles  further  along  the  road  that  leads 
from  Wooler  to  Kelso,  the  pldasant  and  fertile  vale  of  Paston,  long  the  seat  and 
manor  of  a  branch  of  the  Selbys  of  Twizell,  through  which  runs  the  river  Glen,  af- 
fords a  fine  contrast  to  the  steep  and  rugged  mountains  which  fill  the  surrounding 
country^  At  a  short  distance  south-west  from  Paston  stands  Hare-law.  This  hill, 
as  its  name  denotes,  has  been  the  station  of  an  army,  and  has  a  circular  entrenchment, 
with  a  double  rampier  and  foss.  Under  the  hill,  on  the  west  side,  is  a  hamlet,  which 
takes  its  name  from  it*  This  hill  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  narrow  vale,  which 
extends  westward  to  the  boundary  of  the  two  kingdoms.  From  its  situation  it  was 
probably  used  as  a  place  of  strength  from  the  remotest  times,  for  the  strong  and  high 
groimd^  which  separate  South  and  Korth  Britain,  seem  at  all  times  within  the  period 
of  history,  to  have  formed  the  boundary  of  nations.  In  the  age  of  Agricola,  the 
Gadeni  and  Ottadini  appear  to  have  regarded  those  heights  as  their  boundaries,  which 
they  were  studious  to  strengthen  by  art  The  many  hill-forts  which  may  still  be 
traced  in  this  district,  could  not  have  been  taken  even  by  the  Roman  armies,  without 
many  conflicts. 

« 

Y£V£B.iNG,  a  small  ^village,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Glen^  was  formerly  a  place  of 
considerable  consequence,  though  now  little  regarded  by  travellers.  This  place  is 
mentioned  as  the  scene  of  an  action,  called  the  BatUe  of  Geteringe^  which  took  place 
in  the  third  year  of  King  Henry  V.  1415,  between  a  strong  body  of  the  Scots  and 
Sir  Robert  Umfranville,  the  commander  of  Roxburgh  Castle,  with  the  Earl  of  West- 
moreland, then  LfOrd  Warden  of  the  Marches.  Sir  Robert  Umfranville  had,  it  is 
said,  but  sev^i  score  spears  and  three  hundred  bows,  with  which  force  he  discomfited 
four  thousand  Scots,  lolled  sixty,  took  one  hundred  and  sixty  prisoners,  and  chased 
them  twelve  miles  into  their  own  land.  On  the  south  side  of  the  vilk^  is  a  rude 
column  of  whinstone,  fourteen  feet  high,  erected  in  memory  of  this  afiair. 

^  A.  D.  1569*  Thomas  Percy,  earl  of  Northumberland,  after  being  defeated  in  his  rebellion  against 
the  Qaeen,  hid  himself  in  the  houde  oi  one  Hector  Armstrong,  at  Hare-law,  having  great  confidence 
in  him.  Hector,  for  a  sum  .of  money,  betrayed  him  to  the  Regent  of  Scotland,  who  gave  him  up  to 
the  Queen,  and  he  was  executed  at  York.  From  being  a  rich  man  Hector  was  reduced  to  poverty  and  came 
to  a  miserable  end.  He  became  so  in&mous  he  could  scarce  ever  go  abroad,  and  froxn  hm^^rose  the  npr^her^ 
proverb—*'  A  man  who  betrays  his  friend  or  benefactor  is  fit  for  Hector's  doa)^/' 


i7«  GLENDALE  WARD— W.  D. 


Yefv^ring  appears  to  tiaye  been  a  manor  of  the  Saxon  kings,  and  vr^  the  readente 
df  King  Edwin  after  his  tonversicm  by  Paulinus.  The  circumstance  is  thus  related 
by  Bede : — **  Paulinus  coming  with  the  king  and  queen  into  a  manor  or  house  of  the 
king's,  called  Ad-Gelwin,  at  mis  day  Yevenng,  abode  with  ihem  S6  days,  empk>yBd 
wholly  in  catediising  and  baptising ;  during  which  time  he  did  nothing  from  mom«- 
ing  but  instruct  the  people  resorting  to  him  in  the  saving  word  of  Christ;  and  being 
thus  instructed,  he  baptised  them  to  the  foigiveness  of  their  sins,  in  the  river  ci  Glai, 
which  was  hard  by.  Thb  house  was  in  the  time  of  the  succeeding  kings  n^ected» 
and  another  made  for  it,  in  a  place  called  Maelmin ;"  supposed  to  be  Miflfield. 

Near  Yevering  is  a  place  known  by  the  name  of  Yevering  BeU^  a  lofty  mountain^ 
ef  an  oblong  figiu:e,  arising  to  a  cone.  The  name  is  supposed  by  the  inhabitants  of 
the  country  to  be  derived  from  its  fiffure,  iiesembling  a  bell,  and  consequent  as  ap- 
plicable  to  any  other  of  like  form  as  this,  of  which  there  are  many  amcmg  tne  Che« 
viots.    Mr,  Wallis  seems  to  coincide  with  this  opinion. 

The  mountain  is  ascended  by  winding  round  its  ade  to  the  south  and  east^  but  the 
top  is  not  obtained  without  great  labour,  from  the  steepness  of  the  ascent,  the  heiglit 
of  the  £^11  being  upwards  of  1^00  perpendicular  feet,  taken  from  the  plain  at  Yever^ 
ing.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  is  almost  level,  and  encircled  with  the  remains  of 
a  wall,  placed  on  the  brink  of  the  steqp,  which,  from  the  materials,  must  have  been  of 
considerable  strength  when  entire.  The  wall  has  been  built  without  mortar,  of  large 
flat  wfainstones,  with  which  th6  coimtry  abounds.  This  wall  encloses  an  area  of  1000 
paces.  The  breadth  of  the  ruins  of  the  waU,  on  a  medium,  is  eight  yards  ;  and  it  ia 
computed  that  tha-e  are  about  four  fothers  of  stones  to  the  yard.  It  astonishes  the 
spectator  on  viewing  these  remains,  when  he  considers  that  4000  fothers  of  stones,  at 
least,  were  employed  in  this  erection,  a!rtd  those  borne  by  hands  to  a  place  totally  in* 
accessible  to  carriages  or  cattle  bearing  burthens.  Ttie  entrance  into  the  area  is  from 
the  south  side ;  the  eastern  end  rises  some  few  feet  from  the  level  of  the  plain.  At 
a  point  almost  due  east,  a  broad  way  appears,  three  paces  wide,  in  a  straight  direction^ 
aa  if  formed  by  an  even  pavement,  extending  about  80  yards  in  ascent  towards  the 
erown  of  the  hill.  '  This  eminence  is  surrounded  by  the  remains  of  another  wall,  180 
paces  in  circumference,  with  a  ditdi  within.  Near  the  centre  of  this  inner  area,  ra* 
ther  inclining  to  the  east,  is  a  cairn  of  stones,  arising  about  ten  paces,  in  an  easy  ascent 
from  the  levd  of  the  inner  wall.  The  centre  of  the  cairn  is  hdQow,  like  a  bason,  six 
paces  from  brim  to  brim.  After  removing  the  turf  and  sofl,  Mr.  Hutchinson  says, 
that  he  found  the  stones  reduced  to  a  sort  of  caUx,  and  every  where  retaining  a  strong 
impression  of  fire.  On  the  northern  side  of  the  moun^in  are  the  remams  of  an 
extensive  grove  of  oaks.  'On  many  parts  of  its  sides  are  also  the  traces  of  circular 
buildings,  but  now  so  totally  ruined,  and  the  stoomes  so  scattered,  as  to  render  it  im« 
possible  to  ai^certain  their  former  consequence  or  use.  This  singular  mountain  com- 
mands an  extensive  prospect  northward  into  Scotland :  and  an  opening  of  the  moun^ 
tains  to  the  south-east  extends  the  view  ovefr  Northumberland  for  a  considerable  dis* 
tance.  The  works  on  its  summit  are  evidently  of  very  remote  antiquity,  and  un- 
doubtedly deserves  the  attention  of  the  traveller  and  the  research  of  the  antiqnarian. 

It  cannot  be  conceived,  as  has  been  justly  observed,  from  the  loftiness  of  the  moun- 
tain, the  extreme  difficulty  of  access,  the  coldness  of  that  high  region,  and  the  incle^ 


KIRK  NEWTON  PARISH.  877 

mencies  of  the  weather,  to  which  it  is  naturally  suWect,  to  have  been  used  as  a  place 
of  strength :  from  the  same  causes,  it  is  not  probable  it  should  have  been  used  as  a 
place  for  securing  cattle  and  flocks  against  the  incursions  of  an  enemy.  If  employed  as 
a  beacon  only,  there  would  have  b^n  no  necessity  for  forming  circumvallations  with 
so  much  labour  and  care.  Some  writers  have  idlv  imagined,  that  it  was  possessed  by 
the  Danes,  and  that  these  works  appertained  to  that  people,  who  here  held  their  dvil 
and  religious  conventions.  The  improbability  of  the  opmion  which  attributes  to  the 
Danes  Si  such  similar  works,  will  appear  in  the  sequel,  We  shall  therefore  assume, 
that  this  place  was  appropriated  to  religious  purposes,  and  then  shew  the  grounds  of 

this  opinion. 

The  sun  seems  to  have  been  the  first  object  of  idolatrous  adoration  which  the 
Druids,  and  all  the  nations  of  the  east,  worshipped  on  the  tops  of  hills  and  moun- 
tains. The  cairn,  or  conical  pile,  with  a  large  unhewn  stone  on  the  summit,  on  the 
eastern  point  of  the  area,  is  evidently  a  Druidical  altar.  The  hollow  on  the  top  of 
the  altar  was  probably  the  place  where  the  sacred  fire  was  exhibited,  whilst  the  dread- 
ful sacrifice  was  preparing.  The  interior  area  appears  calculated  fpr  the  exclusion  of 
the  vulgar  from  the  principal  scene  of  religious  rites,  where  the  priests  only  minis- 
tered in  their  dark  and  gloomy  mysteries.  The  circular  figure,  so  affected  by  the 
Druids,  was  an  emblem  of  the  eternal  existence  of  the  Deity*.  This  temple  was  also 
probably  used  as  a  court  of  Justice,  where  the  dread  priesthood  judged  and  pronouiv 
ced  the  awful,  mandates  of  Heaven.  In  the  midst  of  the  mystic  cirde  the  h«ui  judge 
presided  upon  a  high  stone.  Mr.  Cleland  says,  it  was  usually  called  the  Stone  of 
Power,  and  occasionally  served  for  the  altar  or  high  stone  of  sacrifice.  It  was  deemed 
the  highest  of  all  crimes  to  escape  from  the  sacred  drde  or  ray  until  delivered  by 
justice.  In  this  institution  we  have  the  most  probable  origin  of  the  magic  circle :  of 
which  some  traces  are  to  be  found  in  almost  all  countries.  The  magician's  wand  was 
nothing  but  the  bough,  by  which  the  party  arraigned  (at-ray-in)  was  arrested  (aU 
rcty-est).  Of  this  custom  we  have  some  remams  to  this  day,  in  the  constable's  stafi^ 
and  sherifTs  wand.  Here  also  occurs  perhaps  the  true  reason,  why  jurymen,  being 
once  charged  with  the  prisoner,  could  not  depart,  till  they  had  acc^^uitted  or  condemned 

*  It  is  fashionable  to  extol  the  pure  religion  and  metaphysical  diBtinctions  of  our  aboriginal  progenitors^ 
Though  they  paid  their  adoration  to  the  sun^  yet  it  is  contended  that  they  looked  up  to  the  great  luminary 
as  being  only  the  throne  or  symbol  of  the  divinity^  which  was  the  sole  spirit  of  existence.  Now,  it  is  certain 
that  the  magnificent  idea  of  a  supreme  and  spiritual  God  could  only  be  entertained  by  cuUivaled  minds,  and 
probably  followed  the  natural  progress  of  thought.  That  the  sun  and  moon,  with  die  host  of  heaven,  were 
esteemed  animated,  intelligent,  and  superior  powers,  among  the  Egyptians,  and  all  the  other  nations  of  anti- 
quity, is  a  fact  recorded  by  every  historian.  If  then  the  most  learned^  speculative,  and  refined  people  of  aiH 
tiquity,  entertained  such  conceptions,  which,  though  perfectly  natural,  were  certainly  very  gross,  how  cou]4 
our  rude  and  uncultivated  fore&thers  acquire  ideas  so  extremely  pure,  subtle^  and  abstruse  ?  Men,  in  ear]y 
times,  were  unable  to  form  any  idea  of  mind  as  a  being  distinct  and  entirely  separated  from  matter.  Hence^ 
when  the  Supreme  Being  condescended  to  manifest  his  presence  to  men,  he  generally  exhibited  some  sensi[« 
ble  emblem  of  his  power  and  glory,  and  declared  his  will  from  the  midst  of  a  preternatural  fire.  Should  we, 
therefore,  admit  what  Plutarch  relates,  that  the  priesta  of  Heliopolis  (the  teachers  of  Moses)  used  sjonbols  to^ 
denote  the  dark  and  obscure  nature  of  God,  it  does  not  follow  that  they  had  any  idea  afpure  spirit :  iix\4 
fhaJl  we  pretend  that  the  Druids  excelled  ajl  the  wisdom  of  Egypt  ? 

VOL.  I.  5  C 


878  GLENDALE  WARD.— W.  D. 

him.  The  trial  being  in  the  open  air,  and  the  culprit  bein^  unda:  no  ocnfinement 
but  of  the  superstition  of  the  ray,  or  circle  of  justice,  by  which  he  was  roffJiguntdy 
bound,  that  bond  might  seem  to  be  dissolved,  when  his  jury  had  taken  cognizance  of 
his  case.  Their  departure  then  must  have  been  considered  as  a  termination  of  proce- 
dure ;  and  the  prisoner,  ipso  facto  at  liberty :  thence  the  necessity  of  immediate  deci- 
sion. Inferior  courts  consisted  of  small  circles  of  stones,  generally  on  the  summit  of 
a  hill,  thence  called  the  mote-hiU.  It  is  also  observed  by  the  ingenious  writer  of  the 
*  Attempt  to  revive  the  Ancient  Celtic,'  that  the  Druidic  dr,  nirs,  shires,  chunks, 
all  took  their  appellation  and  form  from  the  radical  hir  or  eir,^  a  circle.  Church,  or 
kirk,  come  from  kir-rock,  the  circle  of  stones  ;  but  by  contraction  it  is  kirk,  and  by 
corruption,  church.  The  missionaries  who  propagated  the  gospel  in  Scotland^  during 
the  sixth  century,  called  the  Druidic  temples  Clmhan,  whidi  literally  signifies  st&nies. 
Mr.  Hutchinson  concludes  his  remarks  on  this  curious  mountain  in  the  following 
words  : — "  From  the  whole  of  these  quotations  I  would  determine,  that  by  the  tmme  of 
Yevering  Bell,  or  Bel-ad-Gebrin,  is  implied  a  sacred  mount  consecrated  to  the  adora- 
tion of  the  Sun,  and  used  in  fire  worsnip.  Of  this  the  cairn  is  a  coroborating  proof. 
The  circumvallation  shews,  by  its  similarity  to  those  spoken  of,  that  the  persons  who 
used  this  mount  for  their  religious  rites,  derived  those  rites  from  the  same  source  as 
those  quoted,  and  fixes  the  antiquity  of  Yevering  BeU  to  very  remote  ages.    It  is  a 

Eoint  not  to  be  doubted,  that  Yevering,  for  some  time,  was  the  residence  of  the  Saxon 
ings  in  the  heptarchy.  If  we  should  carry  the  antiquity  of  Yevering  Bell  no  fur- 
ther, we  will  find  its  appropriation  then  to  religious  offices,  as  probable  as  in  a  more 
distant  antiquity.  The  Saxons  brought  with  them  many  eastern  customs ;  they  wor- 
shipped the  Sun,  had  their  high  places,  and  rites  of  fire  worship  and  sacrifice.  As  to 
my  own  judgment,  I  should  be  inclined  to  fix  the  antiquitv  or  this  place  to  their  apra. 
The  Druid  tribes  have  left  us  such  imperfect  evidence  of  their  customs,  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  fix  any  thing  positively  there.  It  is  even  most  probable  this  was  of  Saxon 
origin,  from  its  vicinity  to  the  royal  residence,  and  the  greatness  of  the  work.** 

This  reasoning  is  not  satisfactory.  It  cannot  be  proved  that  the  Gothic  tribes  ever 
erected  such  stone  monuments  in  this  coimtry ;  and  the  best  antiquaries  have  attri- 
buted all  such  rude  but  venerable  temples  to  the  Druids.  In  many  instances  these 
mysterious  circles  in  Britain  are  crossed  and  injured  by  Roman  ways,  a  circumstance 
which  clearly  proves  their  high  antiquity.  That  Yevering  Bell  was  a  Druidical  tem- 
ple, is  a  probability  which  may  be  carried  up  to  a  certainty,  by  the  satisfactory  evi- 
dence of  its  resemblance  to  other  indubitable  remains  of  the  Druids.  Nor  is  it  diffi- 
cult to  distin^ish  the  sacred  monuments  of  this  remarkable  ^ple,  as,  in  general, 
they  still  retain  their  originjJ  appellations,  and  which  are  only  significant  in  the  Cel- 
tic tongue.  It  is  absurd  to  suppose  that  these  circles  of  stones  are  the  works  of  the 
Danes,  because  they  are  found  in  the  mountainous  recesses  of  Wales,  and  in  many 
parts  of  Scotland,  where  the  Danes  never  penetrated*. 

The  circles  of  ruins  on  the  sides  of  Yevering  Bell  are  supposed  to  have  been  the 
academies  of  the  Druids,  where  also  the  treasures  of  the  country  were  stored  up  in 

*  Borlase's  Antiq.  of  Cornwall,  p.  192.  Martin's  Description  of  the  Western  Isles,  p.  241.  King's  Muni. 
Antiqua.  vol.  1.  p.  147. 


LOWICK  PiJlISH.  879 

times  of  public  danger,  as  these  sacred  places  were  esteemed  inviolable.  But  to  what- 
ever purpose  they  were  appropriated,  such  small  structures  are  frequently  found  in 
the  vidnity  of  Druidic  temples.  ^       ^ 

The  works  of  Druidism  which  remain  on  the  Bell  ware  undoubtedly  performed  by 
a  people  who  were  inspired  with  great  activity  of  reli^ous  principle,  and  possessed 
amazing  powers  of  execution.  This  monument  also  evinces,  that  tne  Druids  enjoyed 
and  exerted  all  the  influence  which  have  been  attributed  to  them  by  history,  in  anaent 
and  in  modem  times. 

Half  a  mile  south-west  from  Yevering  Bell  is  a  large  cairn,  called  Tom  Tallan's 
Grrave.  It  is  of  a  conic  form,  and  is  composed  of  a  vast  collection  of  small  whin- 
stones.  Neither  history  nor  tradition  informs  us  who  this  personage  was.  In  the 
east  is  a  cluster  of  broken  rocks,  called  Tom  TaUon^s  Cragy  from  its  situation  near 
the  cairn. 

This  strong  and  mountainous  country  seems  to  have  been  the  residence  of  some 
British  chiefs,  and  the  general  resort  of  the  tribe,  before  the  era  of  the  Romans,  as  it 
is  covered  with  the  remains  of  our  early  ancestors.  Near  to  Yevering  are  two  moun- 
tains, named  Newton  East  and  West  Tor,  on  one  of  which  is  a  cairn  of  stones.  There 
is  also  a  cairn  on  the  western  point  of  Cheviot,  and  another  pn  a  hiU  called  Whitdaw, 
all  in  view  of  each  other.  Tory  in  the  ancient  British,  denotes  a  hill.  The  learned 
writer  of  the  Analysis  of  Ancient  Mythology  informs  us,  that  tor  and  tar  signified 
among  the  Amonians  a  hlQ  or  tower,  and  impfied  temples  dedicated  to  the  sun.  As 
an  instance,  Tor-ouy  a  place  in  Macedonia,  literally  signified  the  tower  of  the  sun  ; 
and  Tor-ambi  denoted  the  oracular  tower  of  Ham. 

Akeld,  a  small  village  in  the  parish  of  Kirk  Newton,  is  |>leasantly  situated  two 
miles  north-west  by  west  from  Wooler.  The  vestiges  of  a  burial-place  are  to  be  seen 
here,  but  no  remains  of  a  church  are  discernible.  Some  years  ago  a  lady  died  here, 
aged  107  years.  Heathpool  estate,  in  this  parish,  contaming  above  1022  acres,  be- 
longed to  the  late  Cuthbert  Lord  CoUingwood,  in  right  of  his  wife,  a  daughter  of 
J.  E.  Blackett,  Esq.  of  Newcastle.  Coldburn  was  3so  the  property  of  this  naval 
warrior. 


SAST    DIVISION. 


LOWICK  PARISH. 


Bowsdon  Bum  separates  this  parish  on  the  north  from  the  county  of  Durham :  on 
the  west  it  is  bounded  by  Ford  parish,  on  the  south  by  Doddington  and  Chatton; 
and  on  the  east  bv  Belford.  It  contains  about  12,000  acres.  The  soil  is  mostly  a 
loamy  clay,  and  tne  surface  has  a  bare,  bleak,  and  monotonous  appearance.  It  pos- 
sesses the  advantage  of  several  collieries,  and  extensive  limestone  quarries  and  kuns. 
The  present  rental  is  about  £9,300  per  annum,  it  having  decreased  nearly  £3,000 


880  GLENDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

within  the  last  ten  years.  This  parish  contains  846  houses,  and  1,799  inhabit'^nts. 
The  population  has  increased  417  since  1801,  which  is  attributed  to  enclosures  and 
the  enlargement  of  the  coal  and  lime  works.  There  are  five  small  schools,  in  winch 
about  200  children  are  educated,  Instances  of  longevity  are  numerous :  at  this  time 
there  are  66  poor  persons  receiving  parochial  relief  oetween  67  and  102  years  of  age, 
Andrew  Carr,  of  Brakenside,  died  lately,  aged  107  years.  Until  within  a  year  of  Bis 
death,  he  retained  all  his  mental  faculties  in  vigour, 

LowicK. — ^This  village  stands  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  is  7  miles  north- 
north-east  from  Wooler,  ^  miles  south  from  Berwick,  and  about  8  miles  north-west 
from  Belford.  It  consists  of  one  irregular  street  of  detached  cottages,  many  of  which 
have  been  lately  built  by  labourers  on  leases  granted  by  Thomas  Haggerston,  Esq. 
It  contains  three  public  houses,  and  a  few  of  such  tradesmen  and  artisans  as  are  ne- 
cessary in  an  amcultural  district.  The  chapel  is  a  plain  ne&t  building,  with  a  steeple. 
It  was  rebuilt  m  1794,  and  will  hold  about  600  people.  It  belongs  to  the  vicarage  of 
Holy  Island,  the  dean  and  chapter  being  patroris.  Here  is  also  a  meeting  house, 
built  by  subscription  in  1821,  and  calculated  to  contain  700  persons.  About  five- 
sixths  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parish  are  Presbyterians,  and  those  at  Lowick  form 
one  of  the  oldest  dissenting  congregations  in  England.  There  are  also  a  few  Roman 
Catholics,  but  th^y  have  no  place  of  worship  in  tne  parish,* 

Barmoor  Castle  stands  about  one  mile  west  from  Lowick.  It  was  the  villa  of 
William  Muschampe,  1  king  Edward  I. ;  and  of  George  Muschampe,  10  queen  Eli- 
zabeth, who  was  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland  38  and  42  of  the  same  reign.  Wil- 
liam Muschampe,  who  afterwards  held  it,  was  high  sheriff  of  the  county  20  king 
James  I.  The  same  family  possessed  this  estate  in  the  year  I680,f  after  which  it 
belonged  to  the  family  of  Cooke,  who  mortgaged  it  with  Kalph  Scurfield,  Esq«    It 

^  Xiowick  WM  the  demesne  of  Walter  Lord  Huntercombe,  who  departing  this  life  6  Edwa^  II.  left  thia 
manor  with  the  rest  of  his  estate  to  Nicholas  Newbaad,  the  son  of  Gunnora^  his  sister,  being  his  next  heir, 
Helena,  his  wife,  survived  him,  and  in  the  7th  of  king  Edward  II.  had  for  her  dowry  an  assignation  of  this 
manor  oi  Lowick.  The  13th  Henry  IV.  1413,  the  Fenwicks  held  a  moiety  of  the  village  of  Lowick.  Sep- 
tember S8,  the  27th  Elijsabeth,  Henry  Denton  held  a  sixth  part  of  Lowick,  and  appurtenances,  vis.  a  sixth 
part  of  all  buildings,  &c.  and  village  aforesaid;  also  of  500  acres  of  land,  200  acres  of  marsh,  600  acres  of 
pasture,  800  acres  of  moor,  in  Lowick  aforesaid,  of  the  queen  in  capite,  at  a  fourth  part  of  one  knight's  fee ; 
also  a  third  part  of  the  manor  of  Ingram  and  its  appurtenances,  SCO  acres  of  land,  800  acres  of  marsh,  600 
acres  of  pasture,  700  acres  of  moor,  a  third  part  of  the  village  aforesaid  and  appurtenances ;  also  the  donatioii 
of  the  parish  church  at  Ingram,  held  of  the  queen  in  capite,  as  a  fifteenth  part  of  one  knight's  ibe.  He  died 
November  5,  ^6  Elizabeth  ;  John,  his  son  and  heir,  being  aged  23  years. 

f  In  the  year  1801,  when  the  workmen  began  to  pull  down  Barmoor  Castle,  a  stone  wai  taken  ftom  th« 

front,  marked  W  £  M,  and  a  chimney  front,  on  which  ^  ^^  was  cut  out     A  marble  tombatonei,  belonging 

to  the  Muschampes,  on  which  was  the  figure  of  a  mermaid,  stood  in  Lowick  church-yard.  There  was  fhr- 
merly  a  court  baron  held  at  Barm^r ;  but  the  earl  of  Tankefville  being  now  lord  rf  the  barony  of  Mua« 
i:hampe,  it  is  held  at  Wooler, 


LOWICK  PARISH.  381 

was  for  some  time  in  the  possession  of  Colonel  Bladon,  the  ingenious  translator  of 
Caesar's  Commentaries.  It  afterwards  became  the  property  of  Mr.  Fipps,  from  whom 
it  descended  to  the  late  Francis  SitweU,  Esq.  who  was  representative  for  Berwick 
upon  Tweed,  in  the  second  imperial  parliament.*  It  is  at  present  possessed  by  his 
son,  Francis  Sitwell,  Esq.  The  castle,  which  was  rebuilt  bv  his  fiither,  is  a  very 
stately  and  elegant  structure.  Several  fine  grass  parks  and  thriving  plantations  im- 
part variety  and  beauty  to  the  surrounding  scenery.  The  annual  meetings  at  Bar- 
moor,  of  the  opulent  and  enterprizing  agriculturists  of  the  neighbourhood,  gave 
considerable  celebrity  to  Mr.  Sitwell's  hospitable  mansion.  The  ancient  village  will 
soon  cease  to  exist,  as  the  cottages  are  gradually  removed  in  order  to  beautify  the 
vicinity  of  the  castle.  Here  the  Lord  Marchers  of  the  northern  counties  were  assem- 
bled, 5  king  Henry  V.  1417,  with  100,000  men,  to  chastise  the  Scots,  for  attacking 
and  dispersmg  a.  body  of  English  near  Koxburgh.  The  Scots,  who  had  just  passed 
the  Borders,  retreated  on  hearing  of  so  mighty  an  army  coming  against  them. 
The  English  general  and  his.  son  lodged  ^t  Barmoor  Wood  the  night  after  the  battle 
of  Plodaen.  Woodend  Wood,  vmere  he  encamped  before  this  celebrated  battle, 
is  on  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  now  consists  mostly  of  brambles, 
hazle-bushes,  and  a  few  fir  trees.  About  a  mile  to  the  south,  but  not  in  this  parish, 
is  the  Watch-law.  From  this  hill  the  English  observed  the  motions  of  the  Scots 
on  Flodden.f  Between  Lowick  and  Barmoor  is  a  place  called  the  Cross  Hills, 
where  a  fair  was  formerly  held.  Some  very  old  people  remember  the  cross  which 
stood  there, 

BowsDON  stands  about  two  miles  noyth-west  from  Lowick.  It  consists  of  one 
street  of  straggling,  cottages,  with  thr^e  farm  houses  and  two  public  houses^  Accord-^ 
ing  to  tradition,  a  Scotchman,  a  considerable  time  previous  to  the  Union,  entered  this 
viflage  with  a  halter  in  his  hand.  The  inhabitants,  suspecting  he  was  a  thief,  seized 
him,  and,  as  his  explanations  were  judged  unsatisfactory,  he  was  hanged  upon  a  tree 
at  Old  Woodside  with  his  own  halter. 

In  the  year  1800,  as  some  workmen  were  levelling  a  barrow  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  north  from  Bowsdon,  they  found  two  urns  inverted  upon  broad  flacs,  and  con^ 
taining  bones  which  appeared  to  have  been  partially  burnt  Previous  to  Uiis,  another 
fiinersd  urn  was  turned  up  by  the  plough  at  Bowsdon  Hollins. 

The  ancient  ftmily  of  the  Carrs  sold  their  patemi^  estate  of  Bowsdon  to  the  late 
Sir  Francis  Blake.    The  mansion-house,  which  is  npw  occupied  by  the  tenant,  forms 

*  *  A  list  of  the  members  of  pariimnent  finr  the  borough  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed,  nnc^  ^  fint  Union  paiw 
liament,  1707,  will  be  giyen  in  the  Appendix. 

t  Tradition  says,  that  one  night  the  cattle  belqnguig  to  the  kst  of  the  Muschimipes  were  stolen  bj  a  party 
of  mossvtroopers.  In  the  morning,  Mi^schampe  repaired  to  the  place  of  gathering,  which  was  near  an  ol4 
thprn  titee,  in  a  field  called  the  Craftmoors.  Here  he  qounded  his  bugl^  tq  alarm  his  vassals,  and  at  their 
head  immediately  commenced  the  pursuit  The  thieves  were  overtaken  while  crossing  the  Tweed  near 
ReUo.  Muscbampe  rushed  into  th^  river,  and  with  one  blow  dove  Hempseed,  the  chief  marauderj,  to  the 
chine.  His  fbllowers  offered  no  resistance,  and  the  cattle  were  retaken.  From  this  drcumstanoe,  the  place 
was  called  Hen^peeed's  Ford. 

VOL.  I.  5  D 


48£  GLSNDiULE  WA^StJ).r^E.  D. 

t  

tiWO  si^  <^  9  sqiuu:^,  frdnting  the  e^at  pnd  8oiii;}|.    It  is  onfy  t^rp  atones  higb^  |>iit 
Jisfrgie  ajud  oomixipdioiis.    'AdjoUui^  is  a  good  garden  wd  a|i  orchard. 

;HpwBU&N»  or  HoLBUEN,  is  a  small  viBitge  about  twp  mfles  8Qut)i  fropi  XionriQic, 
It  was  long  the  property  of  the  Howbums,  who  were  i|lso,  10  Elizabeth,  posse^Ksed  of 
Whitchestca*  and  lands  at  Kirldey. 

Exoepting  some  ornamental  clumps  of  trees  with  a  small  wood  near  3aixnoor»  and 
a  f^ w  ptantatiops  of  Scotch  fir  in  tne  southern  parts,  this  parish  is  yery  destitute  of 
Af ^es.  Such  was  not  formerly  the  case,  for  it  seems  to  have  been  neady  coyered  witib 
WQo^  Many  of  the  old  cottages  were  built  chiefly  with  oak  trees^  which^  in  many 
instances,  rested  upon  the  ground,  and  were  joined  at  the  tops,  so  as  to  fitrm  akind  of 
sloping  roof    Those  rude  log-houses  axe  now  replaced  by  neat  weU-bfiilt  ooHageii.* 

DODDINGTON  PARISH. 

^This  j'pinsh  is  boimded  on  ibe  north  by  Lowick,  on  tlie  west  by  the  parish  of  Kirk 
Kewton^  oxx  the  soutii  by  Wooler,  find  on  the  east  by  Chatton.  This  iptf^^ting 
jpiarish  conitains  5  townships,  174  houses,  and  86$  inhabit^ts.  The  soil  is  fertile  and 
,w^  d^l^iyate^  the  annual  value  of  property  in  tibis  parish  being,  in  1815,  estimated 

at|fl9,m 

r 

DoDDiNGTON. — This  Village  is  pleasantly  situate  in  the  vale  of  the  Till,  about 
three  miles  north-by-east  from  Wooler.  It  consists  principally  of  thatched  cottaces 
fcpr  labourers  and  colliers.  The  chapel  belongs  to  the  vicarage  of  (Chatton,  the  dmce 
of  Northumberland  being  patron.  It  has  been  parochial  since  the  year  1725.  Here 
Is  a  day-^schocd  and  a  Sunday-school,  both  of  which  are  in  a  languisning  state.  l)od* 
dingtpn  was  anciently  one  of  the  l<xrdships  of  which  the  barony  of  Vescy,  in  North- 
^n£l^rland»  consisted.  William  de  VesOT,  who,  being  in  ward  to  the  earl  of  Salisbuiy, 
married  Isabel,  the  earl's  daughter,  died  seized  of  mis  manor,  87  king  Henry  III. 
leaving  Jobn  de  Vescy  his  heir,  who,  being  a  minor,  was  committed  to  the  care  of 
Peter  de  Savoy- 


EwAET  is  finely  situate  on  the  south  side  of  the  Till,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
weft  fyom  Doddington.  It  is  supposed  that  ^  church  formerly  stood  here»  as  one 
fipot  seemis  to  have  poen  used  for  a  bt^al  ground.  Ewart  Pari  Houm  is  a  pleasant 
rural  residence,  and  is  the  seat  of  Horace  J3avid  Cholwell  St.  Paul,  Bart.  The  St 
Poids  fa^n^  originaUy  to  the  counly  of  Wvrwifik.  IU>bei1;  Paul,  £m*  married 
Judith,  only  daughter  of  N.  Collins,  Esq.  By  act  of  parliament,  possea  Jan.  89i 
1768,  they  were  authorized  to  take  the  name  of  Saint  m  addition  to  their  name  of 
^aul.  Tneir  eldest  son,  Horace  St.  Paul,  was  created  Count  of  the  Holy  Empire  by 
patent,  dated  Vienna,  July  20,  1759,  to  him  and  his  issue,  legitimate  descendants. 
Jbe  com;it  married  Ann,  only  daughter  of  Hepry  Weston,  of  iVest  Horsley  Place, 

*  WiQiam  Lowi^y,  iEsq.  Banooor,  ^nd  ^r.  Thomas  Hudspeth  and  Kjt ^.  Joseph  Bell  of  Bowsdon,  have 
obligingly  communicated  several  interesting  particulars  relative  to  this  parish. 


DODDIKGTOIir  FA3IISH.  S88 

•  _  

fiiimy,  Esq. ;  and  bul  issue,  1,  Sir  Hodbk DimdCSiohvdi 4EN:.  Faui^  tfae pretent  hato^ 
net;  fi,  Henry  Heneage;  8,  Charles  Maxkmliaafi ;  4,  Charl^|Me;  ftiiA,  5,  Anna  Mai&L 
SirH.  D.C  St  Paul  was  created  a  baronet,  Not.  17,1813.  He  ^as  been  M;  P.  &r 
Bridport  sinoe  liie  year  1812,  and  holds  Ab  rank  of  Ueutenant^cxdonel  in  tfae  anny. 
He  ¥ras  bom  Jan«  6, 1775 ;  and  married,  1403,  Anna  Maria,  daughter  of  John  Yh^ 
count  Dudley  pmd  Ward,  by  whom  he  has  assue. 

In  iiie  be^ning  of  February,  1814,  two  asMsent  bronze  sword  blades  were  found  in 
a  grassy  knowl  in  Ewart  Park,  oaoiy  six  inches  beneath  ike  surfsce.  They  were  21 
inches  long,  and  had  been  stuck  dowtn  in  a  perpendicular  position.  The  edges  haT« 
atngular  ga^es,  wMdi  appear  to  ha^e  been  made  by  similar  weapons.  They  were  in 
a  mie  state  of  preservation,  the  earth  being  a  diy  gravel  One  ot  them  wasnresented 
to  the  Antiquarian  Societr  of  Newoastle  upon  Tyne,  by  Mrs.  St  Paul  of  Ewart,  tiie 
lady  of  tiie  manor.  Matthew  Culley,  Eso.  of  Akeld,  suggests  that  lliey  might  have 
belonged  to  the  stra^ers  from  the  fatal  ndd  of  Flodden :  but  the  Scots  of  that  pe* 
riod  knew  the  use  and  mamrfiBCture  of  iron  too  wdl  to  make  tiieir  weapons  oi  brass. 
Indeed,  it  is  faiffhly  probable,  tiuit  even  the  Britons  had  abandoned  the  use  of  brass 
weapons,  and  adopted  those  made  of  iron,  before  Cassar  landed  in  this  island.* 

HuMBLETON  is  a  small  village,  which  stands  upon  an  eminence  one  mile  west*by- 
north  from  Wooler.  The  wiie  of  Thomas  Ructlid^,  a  labourer  belonging  to  tms 
place,  had  four  children  at  a  birtii,  in  1764 :  but  it  is  ehi^y  remarkable  for  the  curious 
remains  of  antiquity  with  whidi  the  neighbourhood  abounds.  On  an  eae^  indina* 
tion,  close  by  Humbleton-biurn,  is  an  entrenchment  called  Green  Cattle.  The  adjoin- 
ing hill,  called  Humbleton  Hugh,  has  also  a  circular  entrenchment,  with  a  large  caim 
of  stones.  The  hiU  is  cut  in  various  terraces,  rising  above  each  other.  Some  writers 
attribute  this  w<M-k  to  the  Danes ;  and  Mr.  Hutdiinson  thinks  that  it  seems  to  have 
been  calculated  for  a  temporary  fort,  and  was  the  mode  genenJly  practised,  in  ancient 
times,  in  this  part  of  the  oountry.  '*  Many  of  those  terraces,"  adds  he,  **  are  formed 
with  great  exactness,  about  twenty  feet  in  breadth.  In  some  places  tiiere  are  tiuree 
of  those  fliffhts  or  tenaoes ;  in  otikers  I  observed  five,  placed  in  regular  gradaticms, 
one  above  me  other.  These  were  outworks  of  an  important  nature,  to  defend  a  body 
of  duels,  or  a  valuable  booty,  whidi  occupied  the  crown  of  a  hilL  The  origind 
mode,  I  presume,  was  Danish ;  tfiough  those  woiks  are  properly  attributed  to  the 
Scotdi  and  Ei^sh  before  the  battle  in  140GI.  The  summit  of  a  hill  bdng  levelled^ 
I  oonodve  reedved  the  officers  of  highest  rank  and  tiie  most  vduable  effects  of  the 
camp;  to  which  tfae  platforms  rising  above  eadi  other,  and  CTdbtding  the  hill,  when 
iBled  with  troops,  wmdd  make  a  powerful  defence."' 

Mr.  Pennant  observed  severd  veiy  r^ukr  terraces  cut  on  the  face  of  a  hill  in 
Glendale  Ward.  **  They  ire/"  says  tms  traveller,  ^  most  exacUy  formed,  a  little  raised 
in  the  middle,  like  a  fine  wdk,  and  about  tw^i^  feet  broad,  and  of  a  very  consider* 
able  length.  In  some  places  were  three,  in  others  five  flights,  placed  one  above  the 
ctiier,  terminating  exacdy  in  a  line  at  eadi  end,  and  most  predsdy  finished.    I  am 


Ardueoiogu 


applisd. 


884  GLENDALE  WARD— E.  D. 

toId»  that  such  tiers  of  terraces  are  not  uncommon  in  these  parts,  where  they  are 
called  bauUk^.  Mr.  Wallis  conjectures  them  to  he  places  for  the  militia  to  arrange 
themselves  on  in  time  of  war,  that  they  might  shew  themselves  to  advantage  thus 
placed  rank  above  rank.  Mr.  Gordon  descrioes  several  which  he  saw  in  Scodahd, 
which  he  conjectures  to  have  been  Roman,  and  formed  for  itinerary  encampments ; 
in  my  opinion,  a  less  satisfactory  account.  It  appears  more  reasonable,  that  they 
were  designed  for  what  Mr.  Wallis  imagines,  as  nothing  could  more  highly  gratify 
the  pride  of  a  chieftain's  heart,  in  this  warlike  country,  than  to  review,  at  one  glance, 
his  vassals  placed  so  advantageously  for  that  purpose.^ 

It  is  certainly  difficult  to  ascertain  the  age  wnen  those  singular  works  were  con- 
structed, or  the  purpose  for  which  they  were  intended.  We  cannot,  however,  con- 
ceive why  the  formation  of  these  curious  remains  of  art  idiould  be  thought  of  Danish 
construction.  It  is,  indeed,  unaccountable,  that  almost  every  monument  of  labcHir, 
skill,  and  perseverance,  should  be  attributed  to  those  turbulent  barbarians :  nor  is  it 
less  strange  that  the  significant  remains  of  a  British  fort  on  the  top  of  the  hiU  ^ould 
have  been  overlooked  in  the  enqmry.  That  such  terraces  were  designed  for  exercis- 
ing the  militia  is  not  a  more  probable  conjecture. 

It  is  a  fact,  that  in  Peebles,  wherever  there  are  terraces  there  are  British  hill-forts. 
But,  though  these  terraces  may  have  been  originally  constructed  for  the  uses  of  war, 
they  appear  ta  have  been  subsequently  converted  to  the  objects  of  peace.  Near  to 
Terrace-hill,  in  Scotland,  there  is  a  small  hill,  with  terraces  on  the  side  of  it,  which  is 
called  jlfao^hill.  This  name  indicates  the  judidal  purpose  to  which  these  terraces 
were  applied  in  more  recent  times.  Perhaps,  th^i,  justice  was  administered  at  Hum- 
bleton,  by  some  of  the  Anglo^axon  kings  of  Nortbumbria,  while  they  resided  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

It  is  not  improbable  that  these  terraces  were  afterwards  used  as  a  theatre  where  the 
coarse  gentry  of  the  times  were  arranged,  while  the  ancient  pastimes  of  nngin  and 
goundis,  with  horse-races,  archery,  tournaments,  and  other  games  of  a  healthful  ten^ 
denoy,  were  exhibited  on  the  commodious  plain  below.  Tenraced  hills  seem  to  have 
been  used  for  this  purpose  in  Scotland  so  early  as  the  reign  of  king  James  I.  to  whom 
the  well-known  poem  of  *^  PehUs  to  ike  Playi^  has  been  attributed. 

In  the  plain  beneath  is  a  whinstone  pillar,  denoting  the  ground  where  10,000  of  the 
Scots,  under  earl  Douglas,  in  the  reign  of  king  Henry  I V.  cm  Holyrood«day,  1402, 
had  a  great  overthrow,  by  Henry  lord  Percy  and  George  earl  of  March.  Douglas 
had  entered  England  about  the  middle  of  August,  and  destroved  and  plundered  the 
country  as  far  as  Newcastle.  On  his  return  into  Scotland,  he  was  intercepted  by 
earl  Percy,  and,  though  advantageously  po^ed  on  the  eminence,  found  it  necessary 
to  engage  on  this  plain :  the  battle  wias  so  bloody  that  the  lands  gained  the  name  of 
JRe€lrtggs^  from  the  slaughter  with  which  they  v^ere  stained.  '  According,  to  HoOings- 
head,  among  the  prisoners  were  the  earls  of  Fife,  Muiray,  Angus,  Athol,  Orkney, 
and  Monteath,  the  lords  Montgomery  and  Erskine,  and  about  80  laiwhts.  Douglas 
received  five  wounds  and  lost  an  eye.  Being  hotly  pursued,  m  the  i^ght  500  Soots 
were  drowned  in  the  Tweed,  the  most  of  theu"  army  on  this  fatal  day  dyinff  or  being 
prisoners.  This  victory  is  attributed  to  the  numbers  and  skill  of  the  English  archers, 
the  other  troop  being  said  not  to  have  been  engaged.    Sir  John  SwinUm  and  Adam 


DODDINGTON  PARISH.  885 

Gordon  several  times  renewed  the  battle  with  great  braVery;  dl^they  fell  among  the 
slain.*  ** '     *    • 

At  the  bottom  of  die  hiU^  where  stands  Humbleton  Bum  House,  and  dose  to  the 
bum,  the  plough  in  1811  struck  against  a  large  stone.  On  removing  this  impedi^ 
ment,  a  human  skeleton  was  exposed  to  view,  lying  in  a  Mstvaen,  formed  of  six 
large  flags.  The  bones  were  in  a  high  state  of  preservation,  of  a  dose  texture,  and 
remarkably  large.  From  the  specimens  sent  by  the  late  Mr.  Alexander  Kerr,  of 
Wool^,  to  the  publishers,  the  skeleton  must  have  been  at  least. ^^^^  Jeet  long.  An 
urn  was  fouqd  beside  the  remains  of  this  ancient  chieftain ;  but  the  place  was  not 
examined  with  any  attention.  The  cone  of  the  tumuli  seems  to  have  been  levelled 
by  tiUage.f  Humbleton,  so  interesting  to  the  antiquary,  is  the  property  of  George 
Thomas  Leaton,  Esq. 

*  A  poem,  called  '  The  Battle  of  Humbledown  Hill/  was  published  in  an  early  volume  of  the  Gentleman'i 
Magaaine,  from  which  it  was  copied  into  Mr  John  Bell's  Rhymes  of  Noithem  Bards. 

t  The  tumuli,  or  barrows,  of  the  ancient  Britons,  vary  much  in  shape,  size,  and  situation.  The  most  ge- 
neral varieties  are  the  Long  Barrow,  the  Bowl  Barrow,  the  Bell  Barrow,  the  Twin  Barrow,  the  small  Conic 
Barrow,  and  the  Druid  Barrow,  with  its  beautiful  mouldings.  Though  it  is  impossible  to  ascribe  any  ]>ecu« 
liar  construction  to  the  tumuli  of  a  particular  tribe,  or  a  precise  historical  era,  yet  in  this  county  they  are 
mostly  composed  of  loose  stones  termed  Cairns  or  Camedds,  The  earthy  mounds  alone  are  called  Barrows^ 
From  researches  made  in  British  tumuli,  it  is  inferred  that  the  mode  of  depositing  the  body  within  a  cist  with 
the  legs  and  knees  drawn  up,  and  the  head  placed  towards  the  north,  is  the  most  andent.  The  custom  of 
burning  the  body  and  placing  the  ashes  in  a  dst,  or  an  urn  with  its  mouth  downwards,  is  supposed  to  have 
prevailed  with  the  former.  The  mode  of  burying  the  body  extended  at  full  length  was  of  the  latest  adoption, 
A  Cht  is  an  excavation  cut  in  the  soil  or  chalk  on  which  the  tumuli  is  raised ;  and  a  KiHvaen  is  composed  of 
several  large  slabs  of  stone  set  upright,  and  protected  at  the  top  by  a  larger  slab  placed  horizontally.  Lance 
heads  and  daggers  of  brass,  stone  celts,  arrow  heads  of  stone,  flint,  or  bone,  personal  ornaments,  urns,  or 
drinking  cups,  and  other  vestigia  of  the  Celtic  race,  are  found  in  these  funeral  tumuli;  although  in  instances 
where  a  subsequent  deposit  occurs,  it  is  sometimes  mistaken  for  an  original  interment.  Baltic  Barrows,  which 
have  been  formed  so  late  as  the  Battle  of  CuUoden,  are  easily  distinguished  from  undoubted  British  tumuh', 
by  the  vast  number  of  bones  which  they  contain.  The  Saxons  occasionally  erected  barrows  over  the  ashes  of 
the  body  of  the  deceased,  but  in  their  rude  state  paid  little  attention  to  the  dignity  of  sepulture.  There  la 
indeed  scarcely  a  single  barrow  in  England,  which  on  investigation  has  been  found  to  contain  indicia  of  tSaxon 
interment.  After  their  conversion  to  Christianity,  their  common  coffins  were  wood ;  the  more  costly  were 
stone.  The  tert-or  conveyed  to  the  Exiglish  by  the  predatory  inroads  of  the  Danes,  generated  a  habit  of  as? 
cribing  many  of  these  rude  and  melancholy  emblems  of  death  and  desolation  to  that  ferocious  people.  But  no 
rational  evidence  has  ever  been  adduced  to  prove  that  these  restless  pirates  ever  constructed  works  so  labori- 
ous and  stupendous,  though  hafOe  kamms  were  probably  raised  by  the  Danes  after  the  defeat  of  the  nval 
Saxons  and  Imrassed  Britons.  It  may  be  proper  to  add,  thAt  the  Romans  either  buriad  the  body  entire,  o^ 
eonsuroed  it  by  fire ;  but  no  super-incumbent  bavrow  has  ever  been  discovered  over  their  burial  places. 
Where  Roman  insignia  have  been  found  in  a  barrow  or  cairn,  Mr.  King  ascribes  them  to  British  offian^  <^ 
ohieftaina  in  die  Roman  service.  The  usual  characteristios  of  a  Roman  sepukure  is  a  plain  grave,,  with  one  or 
more  stone  pillars  bearing  an  inscription,  and  sometimes  «  sculptured  device.^- ^/^t/ai^erV  His^.  qfMoMchesm 
ter,  vol,  tup.  139*  Douglas'  Nenia  Brii,  p,  1,  2.  King's  Muni.  Antiqua.  vol,  1,  p.  ^QQ,  eU  seq,  Introd*  (q 
Beauties  qf  England,  p.  201,     Turner's  Hist.  ^Anglo-Saxons,  vol.  ii.  p.  154. 


886  GLENDALE  WARD.~E.  D. 

North  Eable  k  situated  one  mile  and  a  quarter  south-by-west  from  Wooler^  oti 
the  right  side  of  the  road  leading  from  Wooler  to  Langley-ford.  The  mansion-house 
is  almost  enveloped  in  wood,  but  by  a  small  opening  on  the  north-west,  it  bursts  upon 
the  view  of  the  traveller,  and  produces  an  agreeable  effect.  Adjoining  is  a  neat  and 
delightful  garden,  and,  at  a  small  distance,  several  rows  of  venerable  trees,  near  to 
which  runs  a  stream  of  pure  water.  The  extensive  prospect  of  lof  ^  hills,  with  rivers 
winding  round  their  base,,  diversify  and  embellish  the  scene,  and  inspire  ideas  the 
most  smemn  and  sublime.  Robert  Selby,  Esq.  is  the  proprietor  of  this  pleasant  re- 
treat.  South  Eable  stands  at  a  short  distance,  near  the  base  of  a  fine  hill,  called 
Yeard  Hill.  The  house  is  a  light  airy  modem  structure,  with  a  pleasant  plot  of 
ffround  in  front  The  proprietor  is  Thomas  Selby,  Es^.  a  gentleman  distin^ished 
for  his  taste  in  rural  improvements,  and  his  attainments  m  philosophical  and  scientific 
subjects.  Earle  was  formerly  possessed  by  the  Swinburne  family  ;  but  two  brothers, 
named  Selby,  having  married  two  sisters  of  the  same  family,  the  estate  came  into 
their  possession,  and  was  divided  into  North  and  South  Earle.  About  eight  years 
ago,  an  urn  was  found  on  the  summit  of  a  green  hill  at  Old  Earle,  filled  with  tlones, 
and  a  thin  piece  of  flint. 

CHATTON  PARISH^ 

This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of  Lowick  and  Doddington, 
on  the  west  by  Wooler  and  Eglingham,  on  the  south  by  the  latter  and  Chillingham, 
and  on  the  east  by  Bambrough  and  Belford.  It  extends  between  seven  and  eight 
mUes  from  east  to  west,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  north  to  south.  It  is  in- 
tersected by  the  river  Till,  on  each  side  of  which  the  soil  is  fertile  and  well  cultivated ; 
but  the  east  and  west  parts  are  sterile  and  heathy.  About  a  mile  east  from  the  Till 
is  a  range  of  bleak  hills,  which  run  north  and  south,  and  upon  which  plantations 
mi^ht,  no  doubt,  be  made,  to  the  advantage  of  the  proprietor,  and  to  the  general  be- 
nefit and  ornament  of  the  adjoining  country.  In  the  north  part  of  this  parish  are 
some  Ume- works,  carried  on  by  J.  A.  Wilkie,  Esq.  of  Hetton ;  and  also  in  the  east 
part  by  J.  Pratt,  Esq.  of  BellshiU.  There  is  an  annual  fair  held  on  Whitsun-Tuesday 
at  Weetwood  Bank.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  fairs  in  the  north,  for  cattle,  horses,  and 
sheep.  The  latter  are  principally  long-wooled  hogs,  and  ewes  and  lambs.  Servants 
are  also  hired  at  this  fair.  Chatton  parish  contains  274  houses,  and  1460  inhabitants ; 
also  two  schools,  attended  by  about  120  children,  and  a  Sunday-school,  which  is  in  a 
declining  state. 

Chatton. — This  village  is  situate  about  five  miles  east  from  Wooler.  It  contains 
upwards  of  70  families,  and  is  the  only  one  of  consequenoe  in  the  parish.  The  church, 
which  stands  on  the  south  side  of  the  village,  is  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Cross»  and  is  a 
vicarage,  valued  in  the  king's  books  at  £12, 10«.  0^.  The  duke  of  Northumberland 
is  patron.    The  parsonage  house  was  formerly  an  embattled  tower,*  in  which  the  vicar 

*  In  a  list  of  Northumbrian  fortresses  taken  during  the  minority  of  Henry  VIII.,  there  are  six  other 
towers  enumerated  which  belonged  to  the  resident  clergymen,  viz. :  "  Tunis  de  Witton  juxta  Rothebury 
lUctoris  de  Rothebury ;  Turris  de  Corbrigg,  Vicarii  ejusdera ;  Turris  de  Sandfordham  Vicarii  ejusdem ;  Tur- 
ns de  Ellysden  Rectoris  ejudem  ;  Tniris  de  Pontelaiid  Vicarii  ejusdem ;  Turris  de  Emylden  Vicarii  qosdem. 


CHATTON  PAMSH.  887 

fx>uld  preserve  his  most  valuable  effects  from  a  sudden  surprise  of  the  Borderers. 
The  church  towers  were  also  used  for  the  same  defensive  purposes.  The  present 
church  is  a  good  modem  structure,  and  was  buUt  about  the  year  1768.  A  French 
eoloiur  is  exhibited  in  the  chancel^  which  was  taken  by  lieutenant  Samuel  Cook 
(son  of  the  present  vicar)  in  the  Swallow  frigate,  after  an  engagement  with  a  vessel 
of  superior  force.  The  church*yard  stands  so  near  the  TiU,  that,  during  floods,  a 
great  part  of  it  is  covered  with  water.*  Here  lie  the  remains  of  Mr.  John  Dial,  an 
eminent  mathematician,  without  even  a  tomb-stone  in  honour  of  his  memory.  He 
was  many  years  mathematical  teacher  at  Bambrough  Castle,  wher^  he  was  distin- 
guished for  his  skill  in  the  science  of  navigation,  both  theoretically  and  practically. 
His  jovial  disposition  and  fondness  for  company  led  him  into  irregularities  that 
clouded  a  vigorous  genius,  and  were  decidedly  incompatible  with  the  ideas  which  his 
employers  entertained  of  the  necessity  of  strict  morals  and  good  example.  Having, 
in  consequence  of  his  improper  habits,  lost  his  situation  at  Bambrough,  he  made 
several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  establish  himself  in  other  places.  He  died  at  Hor- 
ton,  in  July,  1816,  aged  87  years,  in  very  indigent  drcumstanoes.  In  a  painting  in 
Bambrough  Castle,  this  ingenioua  man  is  represented  as  introducing  a  shipwre^ed 
seaman  to  Dr.  Sharp. 

Chatton  was  formerly  a  manor  belonging  to  the  barony  of  Vescnr,  of  which  the  lord 
Vescy  died  possessed.  It  was  afterwards  sold  to  the  Percy  family,  by  the  bishop  of 
Durham,  in  which  it  continued  for  some  successions;  but,  being  forfeited  to  the 
crown  by  Henry  earl  of  Northumberland,  it  was  bestowed,  with  North  and  South 
Charlton,  on  George  duke  of  Clarence,  by  king  Edward  IV.  his  brother.  Some  lands 
and  tenements  in  this  parish,  which  belonged  to  the  abb^  of  Newminster,  of  the 
yearly  value  of  £21,  were  given  by  king  Henry  VIII,  to  John  Carr,  gentleman,  in 
consideration  of  his  good  and  faithful  services. 

Hetton  is  a  small  village  situate  on  the  north  side  of  the  TiU,  about  one  mile 
north-west  from  Chatton.  At  some  distance  northward  is  Hetton  HaUy  the  pleasant 
seat  of  John  Allen  Wilkie,  Esq. 

*  In  March,  1814,  as  the  sexton  was  digging  a  grave  ,on  the  north  side  of  the  church,  he  found  a  stone 
coffin  about  ten  inches  below  the  surface.  It  was  securely  and  neatly  covered  with  three  stones.  The  skull 
was  nearly  perfect,  and  the  teeth  of  the  upper  jaw  were  a  full  set.  The  thigh  bone  measured  eighteen  in- 
ches ;  but  the  skull  was  nearly  ftill  of  water.  The  adjacent  earth  being  carefully  dug  up  and  trindled^  one 
of  Robert  Bruce's  silver  pennies  was  found ;  also  a  steel  spur,  and  several  relics  of  ornamental  brass  and  iron 
work,  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  the  helmet  of  the  warrior  who  was  interred  in  the  coffin.  The  Rev.  Jo- 
seph Cook,  of  Newton  Hall,  vicar  of  Chatton,  offers  the  following  remarks  on  the  discovery  of  this  ancient 
stone  coffin.  'Mn  ISIS,  Robert  Bruce  and  his  adherents  had  been  excommunicated  by  the  Pope  for  contu- 
macy to  his  highness's  messengers,  and  having  assaulted  and  taken  the  fortress  of  Berwick,  as  well  as  those 
of  the  castles  of  Wark,  Harbottle,  and  Mitford,  and  laid  waste  all  the  intervening  country,  it  is  probable  that 
this  warrior,  now  alluded  to,  fell  at  this  juncture ;  and  that  the  vicar  of  Chatton,  on  the  strength  of  the  above- 
name^  anathema,  refused  sepulture  to  his  remains  in  any  other  part  of  the  consecrated  ground,  than  that  of 
the  north  side  of  the  church,  the  place  in  those  times  allotted,  I  believe,  for  the  unhallowed  interment  of  exn 
communicated  unfortunates." 


888  GLENDALE  WARD.~E.  D. 

HoBTON  Stands  in  a  bleak  and  naked  country,  adjoining  the  Homan  Watling 
Street,  and  aboat  half  a  mile  north  from  ttie  Tul.  Scarody  any  remains  of  the 
Castle  of  Harton  now  exist,  the  venerable  rains  havmg  been  appropriated  to  the 
building  or  repairing  of  the  out-houaes  of  the  adjoining  fanners.  Horton  was  hdd 
of  the  barony  of  WiSiam  Vescy,  by  William  Tubcgrville,  for  half  a  knightfs  fee ;  and 
after  that  was  for  many  years  the  seat  of  a  younser  branch  of  the  Greys  of  Chillkig^- 
ham ;  of  Thomas  Grey,  12  king  Henry  VL ;  of  Sir  Ralph  Grey,  a  representative  in 
parliament  for  Northumberland,  1  queen  Marv,  1553,  ana  high  sheriff  6  king  Edward 
VI, ;  of  Sir  Ralph  Grey,  knt.  high  sheriff  of  Nortliumberlsuid,  9  king  James  I. ;  of 
NeviU  Grey,  Esq,  Iking  George  I.  It  is  now  in  the  possession  or  earl  G^rey,  of 
Howidc,  on  whom  it  devolved  on  the  demise  of  the  late  Sir  Henry  Grey,  bart. 

Weetwoob,  the  seat  of  John  Ord,  Esq.  is  most  delightfully  situate  on  the  north 
banks  of  the  TiU,  at  a  short  distance  south  from  Horton  Castile. 

FoWBEE&Y  stands  pleasantly  on  the  south  side  of  the  Till,  and  a  short  dist^tfice 
east  from  Weetwood.  Fawherry  Tower  wis  the  seat  of  William  de  Folebyr,  who, 
in  1273,  held  Folebyr,  Coldmorton,  and  Hessilrigg,  by  one  knight's  fee,  of  the  old 
feoflmait  of  the  barony  of  Vescy.  In  1  king  Edward  IV,  Sir  Robert  de  Folebyr,  or 
,  Fowberry,  and  Sir  Grewge  Lumley,  were  representatives  in  parliament  for  Northum- 
berland, and  are  styled  in  the  writ  MiUtes  gladiis  cincti.  On  Trinity  Sunday,  1524, 
the  son  and  hek  of  William  de  Fowberry  took  «00  Scotsmen  prisoners,  on  their  re- 
turn  from  plundering  the  country.  Eight  years  after  this  exploit,  the  Scots  plundered 
Fowberry,  In  1663,  it  was  the  property  of  William  Strother,  Escj,  of  Kirk  Newton, 
but  charged  upon  **  Mr,  Heron  or  Fowberry,"  in  the  rental  for  raising  the  train-bands* 
In  1741,  John  Strother  Kerr,  Esq.  of  Fowberry;  was  sheriff  for  this  county.  At 
present,  Fowberry  Tower  is  the  residence  and  property  of  Matthew  Culley,  Esq.*  who 
purchased  it  of  the  late  Sir  Francis  Blake,  hart,  Mr.  M,  Culley  is  ^lon  of  the  late  George 
Cullev,  Esq.  the  celebrated  breeder.  This  eminent  agriculturalist  and  his  brother 
Matthew  came  into  Glendale  about  56  years  ago.  They  were  very  worthy  and  inge^ 
nious  men,  and  to  their  joint  intelligence  and  exertions  Northumberland  in  particuhr, 
and  society  in  general,  are  indebted  for  a  powerful  impulse  given  to  rural  industry^ 
From  everv  county  of  the  kingdom,  and'from  every  civilized  part  of  Europe  and  the 
New  World,  pupils  and  strangers  crowded  to  view  the  scenes  of  their  active  and  suc% 
cessful  labours.  George  survived  his  elder  brother  Matthew  a  few  years,  and  to  the 
last  retained  that  even  gaiety  of  temper  and  simplicity  of  manners  wmch  characteriaed 
him  through  life*  He  was  the  earliest  and  the  last  pupil  of  Bakewell,  This  patri* 
arch  died,  after  a  ^ort  illness,  at  Fowberry,  May  7»  1818»  in  the  79th  year  of  his  age^ 

♦  The  public  \n  indebted  to  the  spirited  exertions  of  this  gentleman  for  the  bridge  lately  erected  over  Het- 
ion  l)um,  near  its  junction  with  the  Till,  and  on  the  road  between  Fowberry  and  Horton.  This  was  an 
extremely  dangeroas  passage  when  the  Till  was  flooded ;  and  a  young  man,  derk  to  Mr,  Curry  of  Alnwick^ 
was  drowned  a  few  years  ago  hi  attempting  to  cross  this  ford.  The  duke  of  Northumberland,  the  earls  Grey 
and  Tankervflle,  several  of  tl^e  neighbouring  gentry,  and  many  of  tbe  ftrmers^  subscribed  towards  thl9  uspM 
erection. 


CHILLINGHAM  PAKISH.  «»9 

NESBiTT-^^This  small  township  lies  at  a  short  instance  north-w^  from  Doddiiig- 
ton.    It  is  the  property  of  James  Graham  Cbrkei  Esq.  of  Newcastle. 

CHIH.INGHAM  PARISH 

Is  hounded  on  the  north  by  Chatton,  on  the  west  and  south  by  Eglingham,  and  on 
the  east  by  Bambrough  Ward.  This  small  parish  is  fertUe  and  well  cultivated.  It 
contains  67  houses  and  359  inhabitants,  and  a  school  which  is  usually  attended  by 
about  50  children.  The  master  receives  £lO  per  annum  from  the  earl  of  Tankerville, 
for  the  education  of  ten  boys. 

Chillingham,  anciently  called  ChewUngkam^  is  situate  about  five  miles  east  fh>m 
Wooler.  The  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St  Peter,  is  a  vicarage,  valued  in  the 
king's  books  at  £4.  The  bishop  <rf  Durham  is  patron.  At  the  north-east  end  of  the 
chancel,  behind  the  earl  of  Tankerville's  seat,  is  a  beautifully  raised  tomb  of  alabaster, 
over  one  of  the  ancient  family  of  the  Greys  and  his  lady,  with  their  effigies,  recum^ 
bent,  and  in  a  praying  posture,  curiously  orxiamented  with  sculptures  of  the  Holy 
Family  in  niches*  AlK>ve  it,  on  blue  marble,  is  his  arms,  with  the  Fr^ich  nxotto,  D^ 
hon  vatdoiSi  server  le  r<yg^ 

The  Caatle  of  Ckillingham  stands ..  on  a^  fine  eminence,  surrounded  by  trees,  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  church.  It  is  a  square  heavy  structure,  of  four  storeys  in  the 
wings  and  three  in  the  centre,  and  is  of  the  order  or  architecture  used  in  the  reign  of 
queen  Elizabeth,  From  the  centre  area  a  flight  of  steps  lead  into  a  balustrade,  oma« 
mented  with  the  effigies  of  British  warriors  armed,  cut  in  stone.  The  apartments  are 
awkward  and  small,  and  the  communications  irreeular.  Here  are  several  good  por- 
traits, a  full  length  of  lord  chancellor  Bacon,  anouier  of  lord  treasurer  Burleigh  ;  a 
gaudy  painting  of  Buckingham,  in  a  white  satin  gilded  vest,  gold  and  white  striped 
breeches,  effeminate  and  mntastical ;  a  good  portrait  of  king  Charles ;  a  picture  of 
James  II.  of  the  most  unhappy  countenance  ♦    In  the  Park  are  still  preserved  an 

*  In  one  cf  the  apartm^ts  is  a  mairble  cbumiey-piece,  in  sawing  which  from  the  block,  a  live  toad,  it  is  said, 
was  disDo^ered  therein.  The  nidus  where  &e  animal  lodged  has  been  filled  with  cement  i  but  a  painting  waa* 
made  at  this  phenomenon.  Mr.  Hutchmson  obeerves^  that  if  the  toad  was  as  large  as  represented  in  the 
painting,  it  was  wonderful  indeed,  for  size  as  well  as  its  existence,  being  near  as  big  as  a  hat  crown.  It  is 
not  pcMsible  to  look  npoh  this  <>bjeet  without  giving  passage  to  some  reflections  of  the  following  order :— How 
wonderful  are  all  the  works  of  Providence ;  but  how  incomprehensible 'is  the  existence  of  this  animal ! — shut 
up  in  the  bosom  of  a  mountain,  cased  in  a  rodk  of  marble,  perhaps  a  hundred  feet  from  the  surface ;  living 
without  air,  or  sucfa  only  as  should  pervade  the  veins  of  liiis  stone ;  existing  without  other  diet  than  the 
dews  which  nright  pass  through  the  texture  of  marble;  deprived  of  animal  consolations^  without  light,  with-- 
out  liberty,  without  an  associate  of  its  kind.  If  deposited  here  when  the  matter  which  inclosed  it  was  soft, 
and  Wore  it  gained  its  c<Hisistency  as  marble,  how  many  ages  ought  we  to  number  in  its  life ;  fbr  multitudes 
of  years  must  have  passed  ta  reduce  any  soft  substance,  in  a  course  of  nature,  to  the  state  of  this  stone.  One 
may  ask,  why  did  it  not  perish  in  the  universal  wteck  of  animal  existence?  and  at  what  age  of  the  world 
were  these  mountains  of  marble  firdt  formed  ?  The  inquiry  leads  to  a  maze  of  perplexity ;  like  the  ingenious 
Mr^  Bry  don's  inspection  of  the  stratasrof  Btns&an  lava,'  all  adopted  chronology  sinks  in  the  view;  and  years 
ure  extended  on  the  age  of  creation  beyond  eyei^  t^g  but  Chinese  calculation. 

VOL,  I.  5  F 


S90  GLENDALE  WARD.—E.  1>. 

w 

$ 

imcontaminated  breed  of  wild  cattle,  noticed  (page  110)  in  the  general  description  of 
this  county.  There  exists  no  account  of  the  time  when  this  singular  species  was  in- 
troduced into  Chillingham.* 

ChiUingham  was  anciently  held  of  the  barony  of  William  de  Vescy  by  Walter  de 
Huntercombe,  who,  having  a  moiety  of  the  barony  of  Muschampe,  obtained  a  char- 
ter for  free-warren  in  all  his  demesne  lands  at  this  place,  and  some  other  of  his  lord- 
ships in  this  county.  It  was  afterwards  the  seat  and  manor  of  the  heroic  race  of  the 
Greys  of  Wark  ;f  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of  the  right  hon.  the  earl  of  Tankerville. 

*  In  a  family  account  book^  written  by  William  Taylor^  steward  of  Chillingliam^  and  now  (1821)  in  the 
possession  of  his  great  grandson^  William  Taylor,  Esq.  Hendcm  Grange,  near  Sunderland,  is  an  outlay— 
*'  ]6S9,  Dec  5,  pd.  for  Wm.  Kady's  white  calfe  ten  shillings.  May  l69S,  Beasts  in  ye  Parke  my  Lords — 
l6  white  wilde  beasts,  2  black  steei-es  and  a  qay,  12  white  read  and  black  eard,  5  bladce  oxen  and  browne 
one,  2  oxen  from  Warke  Jane  last,  a  steere  killd  Aug.  9^.  Yt  quy  had  a  calfe  and  went  to  upparke  with 
the  12  blacke  and  read  eard,  the  two  of  Warke  and  the  browne  one  at  Chivton." 

t  A  younger  son  of  Grey,  of  Chillingham,  obtained  a  settlement  in  Scotland,'under  Wilb'am  the  Lion.  He 
is  the  progenitor  of  lord  Grey,  and  other  families  of  the  same  simame,  in  North  Britain.  The  following 
abridged  account  of  liie  lords  Powyss,  first  earls  of  Tankerville,  is  extracted  from  a  MS  note  by  R.  Spearman, 
Esq.  by  favour  of  Mr.  Thomas  Bell  :-»The  king  of  Cardigan,  a  descendant  of  the  great  Cadwallader,  gave  to 
his  second  son  Amarandas,  for  patrimmiy,  Powyss  hmd,  which,  being  in  the  Marches  or  Borders  of  Wales, 
he  was  best  qualified  to  defend,  on  account  of  his  eminent  valour.  In  time,  this  lordship  came  to  a  woman, 
named  Avis,  or  Hawys,  who  married  Sir  John  Chariton,  or  Chorlton,  knt.  and  in  consequence  her  husband 
become  lord  Powyss  in  the  beginning  of  Edward  II.  John  Charleton,  lord  Powyss  and  baron  of  De  la  Pole, 
son  ci  the  above  Sir  John  and  Hawys  his  wife,  married  Maud,  daughter  of  Roger  Mortimer,  earl  of  March, 
and  had  issue  John  lord  Powyss  and  others^  John  Charieton,  eldest  son  as  above,  third  lord  Powyss,  mar^ 
ried  Joan,  second  daughter  of  Ralph  baron  Stafford.    John  Charleton,  fourth  lord  Powyss,  married,'  first, 

^  and  had  issue  Edward,  son  and  heir ;  married,  secondly,  Alice,  daughter  of  Richard  Fitz  Alan,  earl 
of  Arundel,  who  had  no  issue.  Edward  Charleton,  fifth  lord  Powyss,  son  and  heir  by  the  first  wife,  married 
Eleanor,  eldest  daughter  of  Thomas  Holland,  earl  of  Kent,  and  kord  Wake  of  Liddell;  which  Eleanor,  after 
death  of  her  two  brothers,  Thomas  and  Edmund  Holland,  who  died  without  issue,  was  one  of  the  co-heirs, 
both  to  hor  father  and  her  brothers,  and  was  formerly  wife  to  Roger  Mortimer,  fourth  earl  of  March :  this 
Edward  Charleton  lord  Powyss  had  issue,  by  Eleanor  Holland  his  wife,  two  daughters,  co-heirs,  vis.  Joan  or 
Jane,  and  Joyse,  second  daughter  and  co-heir.  Joan  or  Jane,  the  eldest  daughter  as  above,  married  Sir  John 
Grey,  knt  in  right  of  his  wife  sixth  lord  Powyss ;  her  mother  Eleanor,  wife  of  Edward  Charleton  lord 
Powyss,  elder  daughter  and  co-heir  of  her  father,  Thomas  Holland,  earl  of  Kent,  sister  and  co-heir  of  Thomas 
Holland,  earl  of  Kent,  lord  Wake  of  Liddell,  and  duke  of  Surrey  ;  and  by  said  Joan  or  Jane,  said  Sir  John 
Grey  lord  Powyss  had  issue.  Henry  (q.  John)  Grey,  seventh  lord  Powyss,  was  by  king  Henry  V.  A.  D.  1414, 
created  earl  of  Tankerville  in  Normandy  to  him  and  his  heirs  male,  by  delivering  of  one  basin  of  earth  at  the 
castle  of  Rouen,  every  ^ear  on  St.  George's  day ;  he  married  Antigone,  the  natural  daughter  of  Humphrey 
Plantagenet,  fourth  son  of  king  Henry  IV.  styled  duke  of  Gloucester,  earl  of  Hainault,  Holland,  Zealand, 
and  Pembroke,  lord  of  Fraaier,  great  chamberlain  and  defender  of  the  realm  of  England :  this  Henry  earl  of 
Tankerville,  by  Antigenic  his  wife  above  mentioned,  had  Richard  Grey  lord  Powyss,  his  son  and  heir,  Hum- 
phrey, second  son,  and  Elizabeth,  a  daughter,  married  to  Sir  Richard  Kynaston,  who  was  slain  at  the  battle 
of  Bangy-bridge  in  Anjou,  in  company  with  Thomas  duke  of  Clarence,  Gilbert  Umfravel,  earl  of  Angus, 
lord  Ross,  and  Sir  William  Bowes,  knight  and  banneret,  and  near  2000  common  soldiers,  A.  D.  1487.  For  a 
further  account  of  the  earls  of  Tankerville,  see  note  to  page  d57. 


CHILLINGHAM  PAKISH.  9M 

Chillingham  is  also  the  residence  of  Nicholas  Bailey,  Esq.  who  has  succeeded  his 
father,  the  justly  celebrated  agriculturist,^  in  the  office  of  stewaid  of  the  extensive 
estates  of  the  earl  of  TankerviUe. 

On  a  rocky  eminence,  at  the  head  of  Chillinfl;faam  park,  is  a  drcular  double  en- 
trendiment,  called  Ros  CagUe.  This  was  undoubtedly  a  fort  of  the  ancient  Britons ;. 
for  BoSy  in  the  old  Celtic,  and  Ros^  in  the  Gaelic,  signifies  a  promontory.  BosJm 
Castle  stands  also  on  the  point  of  a  rocky  prominence. 

Hebburn  lies  south  from  Chillingham,  and  near  the  extremity  of  the  Ward.  In 
the  neighbourhood  is  a  circular  entrenchment  similar  to  Ros  Castle,  and  which  was 
probabfy  the  work  of  the  same  people. 

New-Town. — ^This  village  stands  one  mile  west  from  Wooler.  William  Jobson^ 
Esq.  a  skilful  agriculturist,  resides  here.  He  has  instructed  several  young  gentle* 
men  of  fortune  and  family  in  the  new  and  improved  modes  of  culture.  lus  pupib 
lately  presented  him  with  a  valuable  silver  cup,  in  testimony  of  their  esteem  aiid 
gratitude.  Adjoining  this  place  is  a  stone  cross,  twelve  feet  high,  called  by  the 
country  people  the  Hurl^tone. 

*  John  Bailey,  Esq.  was  a  native  of  Cockfield,  in  the  county  of  Durham,  and  nearly  related  to  the  inge- 
nious and  benevolent  Mr.  George  Dixon  of  that  place.    Afler  receiving  a  good  preparatory  education,  he  be- 
came a  pupil  to  Godfrey  the  engraver,  in  which  art  he  acquired  considerable  proficiency.     He  engraved  the 
plates  for  Hutchinson's  View  of  Northumberland,  and  excelled  in  delineating  machinery ;  but  his  greatest 
work  in  this  line  was  a  view  of  Darlington  on  a  large  scale.     For  some  time  he  enjoyed  a  high  reputation  as 
a  land,  surveyor  and  teacher  of  the  mathematics  at  Witton-le^^Wear.     His  plans  were  embellished  in  such  a 
style  of  uncommon  elegance  and  beauty  as  to  excite  general  admiration,  and  at  length  recommended  him  to 
llie  particular  notice  of  the  earl  of  TankerviUe,  who,  finding  him  skilled  in  so  many  useful  branches  of  sdence, 
appointed  him  steward  over  his  estates  in  this  county.     His  removal  to  Chillingham,  and  co-operation  with 
the  active  Culleys,  formed  a  new  era  in  rural  improvements.    Every  new  discovery  in  the  scienoe  of  ^ 
agriculture  was  adopted  and  recommended  with  peculiar  energy.    Besides  the  valuable  practices  befiire 
noticed,  which  were  introduced  by  this  enterprising  gentleman,  that  of  irrigation  merits  peculiar  notice.    In 
the  vicinity  of  Wooler  there  is  a  large  tract  of  low  flat  ground  (called  haughsj  adjoining  the  rivers  Till  and 
Glen,  which  was  frequently  overflown.     Mr.  Bailey  made  the  attempt  to  embank  them  at  Yevering  in  the 
year  1787 ;  which  answering  the  purpose,  the  practice  was  soon  after  adopted  on  the  haughs  of  Turvilawa^ 
Doddington,  Ewart,  Sec.  by  which  the  lands  were  more  than  doubled  in  value.     He  was  -most  extensively 
employed  to  survey  and  value  estates  in  the  north  of  England.    His  Treatise  on  the  Construction  of  the 
Plough ;  the  Agricultural  Survey  of  Durham ;  and  his  share  in  completing  the  excellent  Survey  of  Cumber- 
land,  Westmcnreland,  and  this  county,  are  works  that  attest  the  extent  and  variety  of  his  information.    His 
intellectual  acquirements  were  accompanied  by  great  simplicity  and  mildness  of  manners,  and  the  strictest 
moral  integrity.    This  worthy  and  independent  man  died  while  at  Great  Bavington,  in  June,  1819>  in  the 
68th  year  of  his  age.    His  son,  William  Bailey,  Esq.  of  Hazle^Rig,  in  Chatton  parish,  also  resides  at  Chil- 
lingham.    His  daughter,  Mary  Susannah,  married  John  Langhom,  Esq.  of  Berwick  upon  Tweedy  bmker. 
This  lady  has  not  always  succeeded  in  concealing  her  exquisite  prodocticiu  from  the  recogoislng  gphmce  of 
kindred  genius. 


in  GLENDALE  WARD/— £.  D. 


WOOLER  PARISH. 

Thin  parish  is  bounded  on  the  nortii  and  west  hy  the  parish  of  Doddington,  on  the 
east  hy  tlu^  of  Cbatton,  and  on  the  aocith  bj  CcfqUetdale  Ward.  It  is  of  gmaU  ex- 
tent»  but  well  cultivated,  and  contains  915  houses  and  1830  inhabitants.  At  Fenton 
in  this  parish  a  fair  is  held  on  the  87th  September,  called  St.  Nkinian's,  when  there 
is  a  very  large  shew  of  sheep  and  cattle,  with  a  few  horses.  The  sheep  are  mostly 
oast  ewes  bom  shearling  wethenu 

WooLEE  is  agreeably  situate'  on  a  fine  decliyity^  to  the  east  of  Cheviot,  above  » 
trout-stream  which  runs  into  the  river  Till.  It  is  818  miles  north*north-west  from 
London,  46^  miles  mnrth'.north-west  frotti  Neweastk^  18  south-^dooth-west  from  Ber* 
wide,  about  the  same  distance  from  Keko,  Alnwick,  and  Rothbury,  and  9  nuks  from 
Bellbfd.  The  tumpike^raad  from  Edinburgh,  by  way  of  CokUtream,  passes  near  to 
tbe  town.  Wookr  is  the  only  market-town  in  Gkndale  Watd.  It  consists  of  seve^* 
ml  istveets  ssid  lattes^  via.  Teuoer  HiU,  Windy  Row,  Tetnplelsi  Hole^  Ramsay'a  SouUi 
Lane,  Scotch  Gate,  and  Cheviot  Bank*  There  are  several  inns  in  Wooleri  some  of 
which  are  very  respectable,  particularly  the  Black  Bull  inn.  The  market-place  is  in 
tibe  centre.  The  weekly  market  is  held  on  Thursday,  principally  for  com,  considera- 
ble quantities  of  which  are  sold  by  sample,  mostly  for  exportation.  Wooler  has  also 
two  fairs  in  the  year ;  one  on  the  10th  of  May,  for  a  few  cattle,  sheep,  horses,  hiring 
servants ;  and  the  other  on  the  17th  October,  for  very  great  numbers  of  sheep  of  the 
Cheviot  and  long«woolled  kinds,  a  few  cattle,  and  horses. 

The  church,  which  is  a  vicarage  in  the  gift  of  the  bishop  of  Durham,  is  dedicated 
to  St,  Maiy.  It  is  a  neat  and  commodious  structure,  situated  on  a  fine  eminence^ 
The  former  chui^  was  a  mean  thatdied  buildings  but,  being  burnt  down,  a  brief  was 
obtained  for  the  erecti(»l  of  the  present  one,  whidi  was  built  about  the  year  17655 
The  mother  church  stood  at  Fenton,  and  some  nart  of  the  ruins  still  remain. 

There  are  in  Wool^  ttvee  dissenting  meeting«*houses,  which  are  fully  attended^ 
viz.  a  Presbyterian,  a  Relief,  and  a  Burgher,  besides  a  congregation  of  Baptists,  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  There  ssre  four  dav-schools  in  this  town,  attended  by 
above  SOO  children.  Lord  TankerviQe  gives  £5  a  year  and  a  school-house  for  the 
instruction  of  the  poor ;  and  the  bishop  of  Durham  also  gives  £5  a  year  for  the  same 
mffpose.  This  last  subscription  is  to  supply  the  loss  sustained  a  few  yeaars  ago  of 
J!  100,  left  by  a  Mr.  Chishohn,  for  teaching  six  poor  children.  The  Rev.  WiBiam 
Haigh,  the  present  vicar,  has  alsoprocured  the  institution  of  a  Sunday-school,  which 
is  maintained  by  subscription.    There  is  likewise  another  school  of  this  description, 

^  At  the  riAranSioii,  Mr.  John  Lsmax,  M.  A^  Of  Smaimtl  Coifegc,  in  Cambrklge,  was  miniiter  of  WoqIcTj 
iHiov  wit  cmapLytng  with  the  set  of  Ubifbrmii;^^  wiM  iitenfiedk  and  HHired  td  Ntf^  Shields,  where  he  pnic« 
deed  phyele  end  mrgBrjy  and  ke|it  en  Spctfiecery'e  ehop^  thero  being  Bene  Aeve  at  that  time.  Mr«  Edward 
Rochester  had  the  living  of  Wooler  daring  the  time  of  the  civil  wars.  He  was  sequestered  and  phindfred^ 
io  that  after  his  decease  his  ftmOy  was  reduced  to  great  necessities^  and  obliged  to  seek  relief  flrom  the  oois 
pomtioa  established  far  the  support  of  ministers'  widows  and  orphans. 


WOOLER  PARISH-  89S 

belonging  to  the  Disieiiters,  and  taught  by  the  Rev,  A.  Mitehell*  An  Auxiliary 
Bible  Sodety  was  fanned  h«e  in  181 5»  of  wMoh  the  present  earl  of  Tankerville  was 
dbosea  presid^it. 

Woofer  was  one  of  the  baronies  into  which  T>^<»rthumberland  was  divided  after  the 
Norman  conquest  It  was  givai  by  king  Henry  I.  to  Robert  de  Musco-Camno,  or 
Musduonpe.  This  Iwfony  (called  in  Test,  de  Nevil,  Willove)  had  many  valuable 
members,  viz.  '<  Heathpoole,  Lowicke,  Belford,  Gta]«  Ford,  Kymmerston,  Crookham, 
Hedderlaw,  Brankston,  Heddon»  Akeld,  Cowji^land,  Yeverinff,  Humbledon,  Barmoor, 
Ditching,  M iddleton,  Fenton,  Yessington,  Tricklinffton,  BoMen,  Howbum»  Ulches^ 
ter,  and  a  moiety  of  Elwidku"  These  lands  were  held  in  capite  by  barony,  by  the 
service  of  four  knighte'  fees.  The  family  of  the  Muschampes  is  long  ago  extinct. 
Robert  de  Muschampe,  who  held  this  barony  in  tJie  reign  of  king  lienry  III.  was 
eonttdered  the  mightiest  baiion  in  the  n<Mrth  of  England.  His  son,  Robert  de  Mus- 
champe, 1  king  Edward  I.  had  three  daughters,  coheirs,  who  married  the  earl  of 
Strathem  in  Scotibrnd,  Odonel  de  Ford*  and  Walter  de  Huntercombe.  This  manor 
appears  at  some  time  to  have  been  ftn  appendant  to  the  manor  and  castle  of  Alnwick. 
&r  Joan,  the  lady  of  Henry  Percy,  earl  of  Northumberlwd,  who  died  41  £dward 
IIL  had  allotted  for  her  dowry,  among  other  lordships  and  manors,  certain  lands  in 
&e  town  of  Wooler.  AfterwaiKU  we  &id  the  families  of  Heuell,  Serope,  d*Arcy» 
send  Per(nr»  havii^  possessions  b^re ;  and  from  the  last  of  these  Woc^r  passed  to  tlie 
Greys.  In  the  16th  of  queai  Elizabethw  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  knight,  held  the  barony  and 
m«aot  of  Wooler.    It  has  now  deseended  from  the  Greys  to  we  earls  of  Tankarville, 

On  a  drcular  mount  near  Wocder  are  the  remains  of  a  tower ;  the  walls  are  very 
thick,  and  apparently  as  andent  as  the  time  of  the  Muschampes.  By  the  escheats  of 
king  Rdchard  II.  it  appears  there  was  an  hospital  here,  dedicated  to  Mary  Magdal«i« 
In  me  neighbourhood  of  Wooler  are  several  intr^ichments  and  cauns ;  one  at  a  place 
called  Catue  Wdl,  which  has  the  name  oi  Mainden  Castle ;  and  another,  a  very  con« 
siderable  one,  called  Trodden  Grazes,  Wooler  was  burnt  down  about  tiie  year  l72St9 
and  ''arose  £ikret  out  of  its  M^iea^''  Yet  still  its  a{qpearonoe  is  far  fiom  being  elegant 
<Nr  conHnodiouSt 

From  the  report  of  former  travellers,  an  unfavourable  impression  has  been  very 
generally  raeeited  respecting  the  peo^  and  town  of  Wooler.*    The  inhabitants  of 

*  Mr.  Handyaide,  wha  bad  a  premium  of  ten  guineas  from  the  society  for  the  encouragement  of  arts,  f<^ 
the  second  best  painting  in  enamel,  jexhibited  in  March,  1764,  was  a  najtive  of  this  town. 

Sir  Patrick  Claud  Ewihs,  bart  who  lived  near  Wooler,  where  he  died  in  1S07,  in  the  S7th  year  of  his  age, 
deserves  notice.  This  singular  character  formerly  married  Signwa  CiMHuci,  a  Neapolitan  lady,  by  tirhom  he 
had  issue  an  only  son,  bom  at  Eagle-hall,  Somerset.  This  son  married  'without  his  fkther's  consent ;  the  lat* 
ter  disposed  of  all  his  estates,  invested  the  produce  in  the  public  funds,  and  withdrew  into  a  very  humble  re- 
tirement about  56  years  since,  leaving  his  son  (ainoe  deceased)  the  scanty  pittance  of  40/.  a  year  only,  an4 
whom  he  never  afterwards  would  be  Fecondled  to,  or  see.  The  deceased  made  many  wills,  and  by  the  last« 
after  giving  in  legacies  about  40,000iL  bequeathed  the  residue  of  his  immense  property  (exceeding,  it  is  said^ 
500,0002.  sterling)  to  a  distant  relatioa  at  Newry  in  Ireland,  who  dying  but  a  very  short  time  before  the  tes* 
tator,  the  title  and  whde  residue  of  this  splendid  fortune  devolved  by  laps^  to  Mr.  James  Ewins,  the  tes- 
tator's grandson,  of  Newport,  Monmouthshire,  perfmper— -a  man  of  unblemished  character,  with  a  largi) 
family  of  children. 

VOL.  I.  5  G 


S94  GLENDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

this  town  are,  however,  remarkably  spirited,  intelligent,  and  dvil,  and  are  in  no  re- 
spect inferior  to  those  of  any  other  small  market  town  jn  the  north  of  England.  The 
increasing  opulence  of  the  surrounding  farmers  operates  favourably  on  the  trade  of 
the  place,  and  the  shops  are  well  supplied  witii  articles  of  almost  every  description. 
The  meanness  of  the  buildings  would,  indeed,  to  a  stranger,  convey  the  idea  of  po- 
verty, which  does  not  exist  It  is  difficult  to  ascertain  the  real  cause  why  Woolar 
has  been  so  completely  neglected  by  its  noble  proprietor,  the  earl  of  Tankerville, 
especially  as  he  has  given  every  possible  encouragement  to  the  improvement  of  the 
a^oinin^  lands. 

St.  Ntnnkms^  at  the  west  end  of  Wooler,  was  the  residence  of  the  late  Henry 
Henes^  St.  Paul,  Esq.  member  of  parliament  for  Berwick,  and  colonel  of  the  North- 
umberland Northern  Local  MUitia.  He  died  Nov.  1,  1821,  and  was  buried  in  the 
family  vault  at  Doddington.  He  was  mudi  esteemed  for  his  amiable  and  upright 
conduct  in  life. 

Wooler  Bridge^End  is  at  a  short  distance  south-east  by  south  from  the  town,  and 
is  the  property  of  the  earl  of  Tankerville.  It  has  long  been  farmed  by  Thomas 
Howey,  Esq.  the  proprietor  of  the  Newcastle,  Glasgow,  and  Edinburgh  waggons.  This 
gentleman  and  his  brother,  the  late  Henry  Howey,  Esq.  of  Elford,  were  the  first 
wat  facilitated  the  inland  traffic  in  this  part  of  the  kingdom,  by  the  introduction  of 
wdl-re^Iated  waggons,  instead  of  the  former  expensive  and  inconvenient  mode  of 
conveying  goods  by  pack-horses.  Eisht-horse  waggons  were  first  used ;  but  these 
unweildy  vehicles  have  for  some  time  been  laid  aside,  and  light  waggons,  each  drawn 
by  three  horses,  substituted.  ,  The  Tankerville  Arms,  a  large  and  commodious  inn,  is 
much  frequented  by  travellers.  There  is  still  an  annual  prize  show  of  cattie  held 
here.  St  Magnus  Brewery ^  belonging  to  Mr.  William  BeU,  stands  in  a  fertile  plain 
adjoining  the  town.  Near  this  brewery  is  a  tile  and  brick  manufSactory,  carrial  on 
by  Mr.  Sdby  Morton.  These  useful  articles  are  much  esteemed  for  their  durability, 
and  are  of  great  advantage  to  the  neighbourhood. 

^  Wooler,"  writes  Mr.  Hutchinson,  '^  is  situated  to  the  east  of  Cheviot,  in  an  ill- 
cultivated  country,  under  the  influence  of  vast  mountains,  from  whence  it  is  subject 
to  impetuous  rains.  It  is  a  place  of  great  resort  in  the  summer  months  for  invalids 
to  drink  goats'  milk  ot  whey.'*  But  circumstances  are  now  much  altered,  and  the 
country  around  Wooler  affords  the  most  varied  and  beautiful  prospects  imaginable ; 
the  grounds  rising  on  both  sides^  and  forming  a  mixture  of  nch  com  lands,  and  of 
smooth  and  verdant  sheep-walks ;  a  landscape  so  finely  delineated  by  the  rural  poet : — 

**  Happy  Northumbria ! 

Grateful  thy  aoil,  and  merciful  thy  clime. 

Thy  streams  unfailing  in  the  summer^s  drought ; 

Thy  valleys  float 

With  golden  waves ;  and,  on  thy  mountains,  flocks 

*  A  great  number  of  kirks,  chapels^  wells^  and  other  local  objects  in  North  Britain^  as  well  as  in  the  north- 
em  and  western  isles,  are  named  after  the  venerated  St.  Ninnian.  He  was  a  noble  Briton,  and  was  chiefly 
instrumental  in  converting  the  Romanized  Britons  of  Valentia  to  Christianity.  He  died  in  the  year  432,  after 
apending  a  long  life  in  cultivating  the  inteUects  and  refining  the  manners  of  his  countrymen. 


THE  CHEVIOT  HILLS.     .  S99 

Bleat  numberless;  while,  roviiig  rdmid  thw  sides. 
Bellow  the  blackemng  herds  in  histy 


Since  the  attention  of  the  fanners  has  been  turned  to  pursuits  more  profitable  than 
the  rearing  of  goats,^  invalids  have  ceased  to  visit  Wooler  for  the  benefit  of  these 
animals*  milk,  and  the  trade  of  the  town  now  rests  upon  a  more  permanent  basis. 

Fenton,  a  small  village,  the  property  of  James  Graham  Clarke,  Es^.  is  situate  on 
the  east  side  of  the  river  Till,  3f  miles  nordi  from  Wooler,  to  which  parish  it  belongs^ 
though  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  the  parish  of  Chatton.  The  Messrs.  Culley  farmed 
first  at  this  place ;  and  the  improved  state  of  the  neighbourhood  evinces  the  i^van* 
tages  which  must  always  result  from  ffood  example.  It  is  now  farmed  by  Mr.  Jcim 
Vardy  and  son,  for  whom  a.remarkab^  neat  and  convenient  dwelling-house  has  been* 
lately  erected. 

THE  CHEVIOT  HILLS. 

Before  closing  the  description  of  this  Ward,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  ojSTer  a  few 
remarks  on  these  celebrated  mountain  heights,  which,  says  an  a^cultural  traveller, 
**  are  situated  on  the  Borders :  part  of  them  stand  within  the  political  bounds  of  Scot- 
land. But  the  whole  being,  by  nature  and  agricultiual  management,  the  same,  and 
the  principal  hill^  The  Cketioty  from  which  they  take  their  name,  being  situate  in 
Northumberland,  I  consider  the  whole  as  a  district  of  the  northern  department  of 
England.  The  extent  of  these  hills  would  be  difiicult  to  estimate,  as  they  unite  with 
the  moreland  district  to  the  southward,  and  are  continued,  to  the  westward,  by  simi- 
lar green  hills  in  Scotland.  Admitting  that  their  bases  occupy  a  circle  of  about  fifteen 
miles  in  diameter,  their  contents  may  be  set  down  at  150,  to  200,  square  miles.  The 
surface  or  form  of  these  hills  is  extraordinary.  Many  of  them  are  of  a  conical  mould ; 
some  of  them  nearly  perfect  cones ;  others  of  irregular  shape,  but  generally  pointed, 
with  smooth  steep  sides,  and  with  their  bases  nearly  in  contact  with  each  other.  The 
soil,  on  the  lower  slopes,  has  every  appearance  of  considerable  fertility,  and,  widi  a 
better  dimature,  might  doubtlessly  be  rendered  productive  in  a  state  of  mixed  culti- 
vation. On  the  higner  steeper  acclivities,  points  of  rocks  and  loose  stones  appear. 
The  produce,  at  present,  is  grass,  a  continued  sheet  of  greensward,  from  base  to  sum- 
mit ;  excepting  where  stones  prevail,  and  excepting  the  heads  of  the  higher  hills» 
especially  of  the  Cheviot,  whose  upper  regions  are  maculate  with  blotches  of  heath. 
Formerly,  many  or  most  of  the  lower  grounds,  where  any  d^ree  of  flatness  would 
easily  admit  the  plough,  have  evidently  been  cultivated,  probably  at  a  time  when 
these  Borders  were  fuller  of  people  than  they  are  at  present,  when  a  few  very  large 
sheep  farmers  (each  perhaps  holding  a  parish  of  several  thousand  acres  in  extent)  and 
their  shepherds  are  the  only  inhabitants ;  and,  even  to  supply  these  few,  the  arable 
crops  that  are  at  present  grown  are  insuflident.'* 

On  the  top  of  the  mountain,  called,  by  way  of  eminence,  Cheviot,  is  a  louglu  whicfe 
was  so  firmly  frozen  at  Midsummer  a  few  years  ago,  that  a  person  walkra  over  it*, 
For  further  particulars  of  this  remarkable  group  of  primary  mountains,  see  page  10?^ 


99B  GT.EWnAT.K  WAKD.--E.  D. 

Mr.  Hutchinson  deseribcs  Ae  faahalHtaBts  of  these  hSb  as  a  most  wretched,  indo< 
lent,  and  ferodous  race  of  beings  i  but  tbc  Cfaeriot  sb^herds  are  now  neither  so 
brutish  nor  so  miserable  as  he  represents  them.  They  are,  in  general,  a  sober,  shrewd, 
and  rdigious  set  of  peoule,  wlui  pmeas  all  those  habits  of  hospitality  whidi  chanc> 
tense  the  inhabitvitB  of  a  pastoral  country.  Their  diildren  are  generally  tau^t  the 
rudiments  of  leamii]^  and  eady  imbibe  a  taste  for  rdijgiovs  di^utation,  by  whidi 
their  intellects  are  exerdsed  and  exempted  from  the  stupifying  effects  of  a  monotonous 
ocoupation.  If  the  ooeapicn  of  the  iargt  sktevp-farms  of  Uiis  district  have  iHtofited  by 
the  intdligenoe  and  enterprin  of  their  neigfabourB»  their  savants  have  uso  mrt»a. 
pated  in  tne  adviinitsiges,  for  we  no  hiager  oan  reot^poize  amonff  them  eitber  tbe  stu- 
pidity or  the  surliness  wiiich  are  frequently  the  consequence  ofextrenM  poverty. 

THe  scene  of  tlie  batde  of  Ckevy-aiaoe,  m  the  celelnated  ballad  of  t^t  name,  is  laid 
in  these  mountains.  Notwithstanding  there  is  nothing  but  ballad  audumty  for  it» 
yet  it  is  highly  probable  that  such  an  action  might  have  happened  between  two  rival 
chieftains,  jealous  of  the  invasion  of  their  huntmg-grounds.  The  limits  of  the  king- 
doms were  then  unsettled  ;  and  even  at  this  time,  vaete  are  debateable  lands  amidst 
these  hills.  The  poet  has  used  a  licence  in  his  description  of  the  fight,  and  mixed  in 
it  s»me  events  of  the  battle  of  Ottei1iuni»  for  aothtr  «  Feny  nor  a  Douj^  £di  in 
tint  woeful  Inintaig. 


«l 


^AMBRdUGH    WARD. 


i  > 


I .  I 


IS' Ward  is  bounded. on  the  north  by  Islimcdshu^,  on  the  west  by 
Glendale  and  Coquetdale  Wards,  on  the  south  by  the  Ahi,  and  on  the 
eafstby  the  Gei:toan  Ocean.  Taldn^  the  average^  it  is  seventeen  miles 
in  length  from  north  to  south,  ^a  eight  mSLts  in  breadth ;  consisting 
principally  of  arable  ground.  It  contains  seven  parishes:  rart  of  one 
of  them  is  in  Coquet£de  Ward ;  but  part  of  the  parishes  of  Eglingham 
and  Alnwick,  of  the  latter  Ward,  is  within  the  boundary  of  Bambrough  Ward.  The 
north(»7i  extremity  of  this  Wai^  id  cut  off  from  the  adjoining  parts  by  a  ridge  of 
rocks,  from  which  the  grounid  stretches  in  a  very  level  and  uniform  manner  towardis 
the  south.  From  the  sea  it  rises  with  an  easv  slope  to  the  western  banks  that  skirt 
the  upland  district,  which  is,  on  an  averaffe,  about  five  miles  from  the  sea^  The  ele-i 
vation  and  surface  of  this  tract  are  perfecuy  those  of  a  low  vale  district.  Some  of  the 
lower  lands  are  barely  out  of  the  tide's  way ;  and  the  higher  grounds  are  seldom  more 
than  gentle  swells.  Viewed  from  various  points,  it  has  every  appearance  of  half  a 
rivered  vale.  In  soil»  too,  it  strictly  bears  tne  vale  character,  being  almost  uniformly 
of  a  retentive  nature,  and  of  a  productive  quality.  Towards  the  northern  extremity, 
there  is  much  d^p  strong  land,  of  a  superior  quality ;  and  on  the  eastern  banks  of 
the  Aln  lie  some  of  the  most  valuable  lands  in  the  kin^om.  The  wH  of  the  western 
parts  of  the  Ward  is  various,  but  mostly  of  a  pale  colour,  and  a  cold  weak  quality. 
The  farms,  as  in  Glendale  Ward,  are  generally  very  large,  and  the  farmers  opident, 
intelligent,  and  enterprizing. 


KOB^TH   DZVISZOir. 


BELPORD  PARISH 

Is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Islandshire,  on  the  east  by  the  same  and  the  sea,  on  the 
isouth  by  Bambrough  parish,  and  on  the  west  by  the  parish  of  Chatton.  It  extends 
4^  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  about  3  miles  from  north  to  souths  The  soil,  in  ge- 
neral, is  excellent,  aqd  the  "lovely  Bason  of  Belford''  has  been  much  admired.    It 

VOL,  I.  5  H 


398  BAMBROUGH  WARD— N.  D. 

abounds,  like  the  adjoining  country,  with  coal,  limestone,  and  building  stone.  This 
parish  contains  284  houses  and  1728  inhabitants.  There  are  five  day-schools  in  the 
town  of  Bctford,  and  one  at  Easington,  in  all  of  which  820  children  are  educated.  In 
the  former  place  there  are  also  two  Sunday-schools,  ap4  V^  ^^  latter  one,  which  axe 
attended  by  190  childreii.  *  ^  ^  '     '  i  i  •'   ^  v  J 

Belford. — ^This  is  the  principal  town  in  the  Ward,  and  is  49  miles  north-by-west 
from  Newcastle,  and  15^  miles  south-by-east  from  Berwick.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
agreeable  little  towns  in  the  north  €^  Mmglmd,-  It  stands  pleasantly  on  a  gradual 
slope  within  two  miles  of  the  sea,  the  prospect  of  which  is  intercepted  to  the  east  and 
north-east  by  the  rid^  of  a  hilL  Being  a  post  town,  and  on  the  neat  north  road,  it 
has  a  most  excellent  mn  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers,  called  the  Bell,  kept  by 
Mrs.  Henderson,  and  about  six  other  ions  end  ale-house&  The  buildima,  in  gmeial^ 
stre  neat  and  well  disposed ;  but -almost  all  the  houses  luHsre  been  erected  on  leases  foft 
thi^  lives,  {i  circumstance  which  certain^  retards  ihe  inioease  and  improveqaent  of 
the  town.  Inhere  are  no  Ixade  nra  manufactures  carried  on  to  any  extent,  except  m 
l^ewery  belonging  to  )i/lr.  John  llqgens,  and  a  weayiiig  shop,  in  which  Mr*  BMom* 
field  eoo^li6ys  a  rew  looms  in  the  weaving  o^  various  articles,  1%k  mtfrieet  is  ^n 
Tisesday^  l^t  its  chief  support  is  the  'sale  of  corn,  ;grebt  quantilieft  <if  which  ffoe  scM 
\>y  sample  for  eKportation*  T^^K  ar^  iwo  fairs  in  the  Ijear;  o^e  k  beld^on  the/Jjues- 
^y1[>eiore  Whitsun'tidie,  ahcl  the  other  on,  the  28cl  of  August^  at:both^'which>a 
fe^.  cattie  and  she^  are  spld. 

The  chapel,  whidi  was  erected  in  the  year  1700,  stands  at  the  nortib^east  end  of  the 
to^im,  and  is  an  irregular  l^uilding,  very  'insufficient  for  the  p<mulation.  It  is  a  cunM^i» 
dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  of  the  certified  value  of  £2,  and  belonged  to  the.prioiy  of 
NoBtMl.    It  is  in  the  gift  of  "the  proprietor  of  Belford.*    Here  is  a  Fvesbyterian 

*•         ■ 

*  The  late  Rer.  Mr.  ArmttroBg^  curate  of  BtMbrd,  ww  a  v€iy  remarkable  thaiaoler^  and  nnivendly  kao^lMi 
and  rtapeited.  He  was  bem  sbout  the  year  174S:  his  father  was  a  cfei^gyman  of  the  eiUUiihed  dmt^ 
$fnd  hmi  A  aoftaU  livioig  in  Che  county  of  Northumberland.  •Poeaessii^  ^eat  aatural  faxU,  -  he  ^ttade  4i  vaty 
entMoidinacy  {vrogtesa  at  achod,  and  finished  hia  daasical  studies  in  less  than  the  iBual'tiDie.  In.lhe^year 
177^  he  was  appointed  to  the  stipendary  curacy  of  Ingram^  in  Northumberland  .About  two  yeaisafto*, 
Abraham  Dixon>  £8q.  who  properly  appreciated  his  worth  and  talents,  granted  him  the  perpetual  curacy  of 
Belford.  This  cure  was  no  great  object,  being  scarcely  adequate  to  the  support  of  even  a  small  family :  yet 
he  refused  two  offers  of  livings  of  considerable  value,  alleging  that  he  was  perfectly  contented  and  happy  in 
his  bumble  situation ;  nor  would  he  accede  to  the  proposal  of  holding  another  benefice  and  employing  a  cu* 
rate  to  perform  the  duties.  He  had  aone  small: personal  property,  «nd  he  was  in  the  habit  of  boarding  and 
educating  a  few  gentlemen's  sons  in  his  own  house,  the  profits  of  which,  added  to  his  stipend,  made  him 
"  passing  rich."    His  friends  were  frequently  relieved  by  his  bounty,  and  his  acts  of  charity  were  nomenms. 

Mr.  A.  held  the  curacy  of  Belford  upwards  of  20  yesrs,  during  which  he  was  indefatigably  employed  in 
instructing  his  parishioners  in  the  knowledge  and  practice  of  frue  religion.  As  a  preacher,  he  was  far  above 
iQfidiocpty*  His  language  was  chaste,  easy,  and  animated.  •  He  had  aTlear  and  musical  yoice^  and  his  man- 
ner was  so  extremely  impressive  and  pleasing,  as  rendered  it  almest  impossible  ta  be  inattentive  to  hie  in- 
structions. In  private  life  he  was  remarkably  i^ular  and  abstemious.  His  conversation  was  lively,:  insi rue- 
tive,  and  agreeable.  His  hours  ofrelazsltion  he  frequently  employed  In  his  garden,  or  in  angling.  He  also 
contemplated  any  striking  or  stupendous  object  either  of  nature  or  of  art,  with  an  ardour  and  admiration 


BELFORD  PAJOSe.     V'  SB9 

meeHlngJiioitve^  xrhieh  is  wdl  attended,  and  aoothtt  hAonipng  to  a  jtoiupr^gation  of 
Atitiltmrghen.    Belford«  at  preaeni;  contailis  ISS  housM,  and  1788  inhahitwt^ 

ICbd  greatest  amament  to  BdfQvfl  is;  Ate  malisidn  of  th0  Jate  Abraham  DUon,  E^q^ 
It  is  a;  lisur ge  modem  stpochaare,  of  Piuticfa  ajrdiitQoture,  surrounded  with  plea6^re 
grounds  and  fine  plantations.  On  the  south  side  is  a  beautiful  shrubbery,  ne^^ 
piece'  of  wat^,  undar  a  semicirbiikr  rocky  moiAit;  and  at  a  short  distaqoe,  to  &e 
south-east,  is  an  opening  betvraen  two  hills,  by  which  a  prospect  of  the  sea  is  obtained. 
^*But  the  aituation,*^  obsenres  Hutchinson^  '^  is  far  from  eligible,  there  beinjg;  none  of 
that  fuaral  rariety^  that  eLegaat  simplicity,  or  its  reyerse,  those  wildne9ses  in  nature* 
whi<^  constitete  a  pl6as]ng>  country  pnc^ect.  The  hills  rise  tamely,  the  inclosurem 
are  large  and  ill  wooded,  ne  hamlets  are  very  distantly  scattemd,  and  nolhwg  i^pesiis 
sbigydar  or  attract^g  u|^  the  whole  view,  but  the  castle  of  Bamfaroju^  and  tibe 
•ea,  whicb  fovtns  die  hompn«'*  The  present  propK^etw  has  extended  ana  improv/^ 
the  sppeanince  of  tlus  fine  mansien^  under  the  aUe  direction  of  Mr.  J3ob$on»  arwiiUct 
Two  wings  have  been  added,  and  the  grand  northern  entrance  has  assyo^  ^  Gxf^ 
appearance.  The  adjoining  pleasure  grounds  have  also  been  very  judiciously  and 
tastefully  unproved. 

Betford  was  theloiddiip  and  manor  of  Walter  de  Hwitereoitdbe,  helloing  pQ#se«se4 
of  a  aioiety  cf  the  barcmy  of  Muschampe,  to  ivhicAi  jAiis  manor  yr^  appendi^ 
Havinj^  acoompamed  kins  Edwwd  i.  in£he  expeditiM  made  ijwbo  Wales,  tjimt  xnor 
oorch,  m  the  IStli  year  of  nis  iseign,  in  reward  for  his  jserFioes,  oade  hw  gQyenpbor  of 
the  Isle  of  Man,  and,  in  the  foUDwinff  year,  granted  him  a  charter  <^  firee^^atren  in 
all  his  demesne  lands  in  this  town,  and  severalotiier  pkoes  in  l^qrthumberl^ind.  Uie 
died  the  6th  of  king  Edward  II.  and  left  this,  with  other  estates,  to  his  wife  Alice, 
who  stood  infeoffed  in  them  iwith  him.  He  was  summoned  to  parliament  among  the 
barons  from  the  23d  year  of  king  Edward  I.  to  the  4th  of  Edward  II.  But  this 
manor  soon  after  this  was  alienated,  whether  by  sale  or  mairii^  we  know  not,  to  the 
ISnnily  of  Meindb;  Sot  nnre;find  tthat  iNinhqlas  de  MeineU,  who  was  the  cbief  of  thip 
family,  and  was  summoned  /to  ^UaXnent  irom  jthe  fifth  to  the  l6th  of  Edward  IIL 
died  possNBssed  of  the  free  chaee  of  CSieviot,  and  a -moiety /of  thjus  manor  of  Belfor4 
which,  with  several  other  estates,  he  left  to  his  daughter  and  ^heir,  Elizabeth,  w:)ip  w^ 
first  married  to  John  lord  Darcy,  and  afterwards  to  Peter  de  Mauley.  In  the  1st 
king  Henry  V.  B^oid  was  the  manor  and  villa  of  Thomas  de  Hd^um.  John 
Forster,  of  Bambrough  Castle,  Esq.  possessed  it  in  the  14th  king  Charles  I.    It  aftei^ 


arittch  lew  were  capable  of  ftdiaa.   J9e  hud  a  tatte  for  (ipawju^g^  architecture,  gardening,  too.  but 
larly  temurio:  .in  this  last  keririWia:gvMtjiK9&a^  9ialy  perfbnned  ,with  eaaeaiul  executipn  upon 

'aevend'iil«stcaliiiidtraineiit8,but  epmppsed.  various  pieces^  prjndpalljr  for  sacred  purpoaes,  of  exquisite  beau^ 
aEnd  taste.  And  further,  he  eoiikl,  i^lthaot .  ba?ing  reeeivcd  any  instruction,  mdie  almost  every  kind  of  iqu- 
atcal  instraaettt.  Indeed, -aittih  was  }iis  sklU  fad  dexterity  ia  the  mechanic  arts,  that,  in  the  execution  ^(ai^ 
'uice^pieoe  of  .w»rkmandlip>  few.  of  the  west  jip^iminHia  aftjbbsera  were  able  to  suxpaas  him. 

•Fmib  his  earliest  .]raatt  Air.  A*  aeenis  %o  have  ^had  but  a  4elical;er0onstituti<io.  In  179.3,  he  had  a  slight 
TStreie  of  thepaky,  and  has  mental  ftcfedtieea^eliied  to  ^mpathiae  with  the  enfeebled  .powers  of  his  body. 
luftiiiadeclinBi^  state  he  contioued  until  the  SA  pf  .August,  llffjp  when  he  |;ently^ expired,  in  the  48th  y«^ 
•of hia 9ge.  His-iBemory dsstitt  aUve. in^tbe baarts of l^s ^urviving^panishi/aaiecs.  It^df^^ few dei3erved praise 
more  than  he,  and  no  one  ever  sought  it  less. 


400  BAMBROUGH  WARD.— N.  D. 

wards  belonged  to  Abraham  Dixon,  Eiq** .  Scnne  years  ago,  it  ti«a  purdms^  bjr 
a  company  of  speculators,  who  sold  it  in  1810.  ;  It  is  now  me  propeiitjr  of  William 
Clarke,  Ksc^.  who  was  high  sheriff  of  Northumb«iiand  in.  the  jrear  ISSO.  Bdford 
estate  contams  29S0  acres  of  good  land,  is  tyth^  fiee,  ami  lies  <x>mpaetly  within  a  ring 
fence. 

Near  this  town,  on  a  rising  around,  are  the  ruins  oi  ah  ancient  chapel,  which,  being 
surrounded  by  several  tall  oak  trees,  had  a  most  romantic  appearance ;  but  the  traes 
are  now  cut  down  and  the  stones  removed.  On  the  north-west  side,  by  a  fine  spring, 
stood  the  ancient  manor-house,  behind  which  was  formerly  a  wood  pf  Urge  oaks,  h^ 
a  mile  in  length,  which  stretched  under  a  range  of  steep  rocks  of  wfainstone.  About 
a  mi]e  south-west  from  Belford  are  the  remains  of  an  encampment,  njearly  square^ 
with  a  wide  foss  and  a  double  rampier,  the  entruxse  toi  the  aorUi'^^ist.  It  appears  fo 
have  been  a  place  of  ocHisiderable  strength,  and: is  thought. to  be  the  Worlc  of  the 
Danes,  which  is  highly  probable,  considering  its  convenient  situation  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  coast,  .     ? 

MiDDLETON. — ^This  plaoc  is  the  property  of  S.  F.  Gillum,  EsOi  and  is  a  littib 
more  than  a  mile  north-west  from  Belford.  Dutchakt^  a  small  viDage^  stands  on  a 
bend  of  the  great  post-road,  about  S^  miles  ndrth^north-west  from  Belford  It  eon* 
sists  mostly  of  cotttoes  for  labourers.  Easikoton  Granoe  stands  about  1^  mfle 
north-east  from  Belford,  and  is  the  property  and  residence  of  John  Nesb&tt,  Esq. 
Easington,  which  adjoins  this  township  on  the  south,  is  the  property  of  Captain 
LandeUs,    Elwick  was  before  noticed  in  the  description  of  Ancroit  chapehy. 

BAMBROUGH  PARISH. 

This  extensive  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Belford  parish  and  the  sea,  on 
the  east  by  the  sea,  on  the  south  by  the  pariishes  of  Fjlingfaam  and  EmUeton,  and  on 
the  west  by  that  of  Chatton.  It  extends  above  8  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  5^  miles 
from  north  to  south.  It  contains  twenty-four  townships,  includuig  Xiucker  diapehy, 
Q60  houses,  and  8344  inhabitants. 


Dixon,  Esq.  a  mendbant  of  great  nspectabflity^tlie  propriety 
two  fldrt  to  he  ettabliahed  at  this  place.  But  it  waa  the  spirited  and  patriodo  ezerticiiia  of  faia  son,  Abraham 
Dixon,  Esq,  that  raised  Belford  into  consequence.  When  the  town  came  into  hia  possession,  it  consisted  of  only 
a  few  ihiserable  cottages.  He  judiciously  oommenoed  hia  schemes  of  in^Mrovement  by  repairing  the  adjoining 
roads,  which  were  uncommonly  bad.  He  next  established  a  wooQen  manulkctory,  which  fbmished  employ- 
ment to  a  number  of  both  sexes,  and  introduced  habits  of  industry.  The  establiriiment  of  a  tanneiy  waa  also 
an  acquisition  of  importance  to  the  neighbourhood ;  and  the  inection  of  an  elegant  and  commodious  inn  renn- 
.dered  this  place  an  agreeable  resting-place  for  travellers.  By  these,  and  similar  rneans^  which  this  worthy 
gentleman  indefatigably  pursued,  the  population  of  the  town  hicreaaed  rapidly,  aad  it  now  nmka  among  the 
most  pleasant  and  best  built  market  towns  in  the  county.  Mr,  Dixon  was  a  gentleman  of  highly  polished 
manners,  and  was  some  years  lieutenant-colonel  of  the  Northumberland  Militia*  In  1759,  he  was  hi|^  sheridT 
of  Northumberland.  He  married  a  daughter  of  John  Ord,  Esq.  His  only  sister  married  K^binwaring  Ellei-i 
ker,  Esq.  of  Risby,  in  the  county  of  York ;  and'  Mr.  Diton  bequeathed  his  estate  to  -««-  Onslow,  £sq» 
grandson  of  hia  si&ter  EUerker. 


.  rrhere  atie  i^ght  schoob  in  this  parish,  attended,  on  an  averi^  by  375  chikben ; 
BRindy,  twip  at  Bambrough  Caatle,  two  at  Sunderland,  one  at  Seadnel,  one  at  New* 
heim^  one  at  j^udcer,  and  one  at  Twisell  village.  Lucker  and  Beadnd  schools  are 
partly  patronized  by  the  trustees  of  lord  Crewe,  and  Newham  school  by  the  duke  of 
Northumberland.  There  is  a  Suiulay-^hool  at  Bambrouffh,  at  whidi  about  110  chH- 
dran  attend.  One  at  Warrenford,  attended  by  60,  ana  conducted  by  the  Hev.  J. 
Hutehinson,  a  iMssenting  minister,  is  open  cmly  during  the  summer  months. 

BAMBSouGH.-^This  vUla^  is  about  4f  miles  east  by  north  from  Belfi^-d.  It  i3  aQ 
airy,  healthy,  and  beautiful  place,  adorned  with  a  sweet  shady  grove  in  the  oentre.^i 
It  has  be^i  lately  much  imnrov^d»  by  an  ioorease  of  excellent  cottages ;  aod  the  ad^ 
jacent  ooimtry  is  in  a  hign  state  of  cultivation,  especially  in  the  turnip  and  ^love? 
syJtem. 

The  chapel,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Aidan,  is  a. curacy  in  the  ^A  o£  the  trustees 
of  lord  Crewe.  The  church  is  a  plain  and  neat  structure,  but  the  date  of  its  erection 
id  unknown.t  There  are,  however,  no  great  marks  pf  antiquity  in  the  bmldinff.  The 
ehurdh,  founded  by  Oswald,  is  probably  that  which  dtajods  within  the  castfe  walla 
This  edifiee  seems  to  be  of  much  more  modern  'date.  In  a  nidie  in  the  wfdl  is  a  re* 
ciimbent  effigy,  cross-legged,  called  by  tradition  Sir  Lanedot  du  Lake.  As  these 
apertures,  on  the  building  of  churches,  were  designed  for  the  tombs  of  founders  or 
other  benefactors,  this  tomb  reduces  the  antiquity  of  the  church  to  a  late  era ;  and 

*  The  following  extraordinary  circamstanoet,  wfaidi  oocohred  in  this  neighbourhood^  deserve  die  notice  of 
the  naturalist  and  the  antiqiiary.  They  are  given  on  the  aulkirity  of  the  Rev.  Michael  Maoghon* 
.  About 'fifteen  years  ago,  in  bredcing  up  a  freestone  quiuty^  near  Bainfaiioiighy  where  the  ground  aoenntgly 
had  never  been  opened  befiore,  a  vast  quantity  of  the  horas  of  deer  (supfweed  ta  be  red)  wtere  found  bttTit4 
full  four  feet  under  a  body  of  excellent  solid  earth.  Most  of  them,  when  exposed  to  the  air,  mouldered  and 
fell  in  pieces,  except  twc^  which  are  in  high  preservation.  They  are  each  about  three  feet  long,  and  all  their 
ramifications  quite  entire.  They  are  carefully  suspended  in  Bambrough  Castle,  as  curiosities.  In  digging 
them  up,  it  appeared  that  whole  carcases  had  been  entombed  there,  for  the  skulls  of  some  of  them  were  not 
severed  from  the  homfl^  and  even  an  offensive  amell  arose  from  the  soil  in  which  they  were  buried. 

In  the  year  1793,  Mr.  George  Wilson,  a  mason,  met  with  a  toad«  which  he  wantonly  immured  in  a  stone  wal) 
that  he  was  then  building.  In  the  middle  of  the  wall  he  made  a  close  cell  of  lime  and  stone^  just  fit  for  the 
magnitude  of  its  body,  and  seemingly  so  closely  plaistered  as  to  prevent  the  admission  of  air.  tn  the  yeajr 
18Q9^  on  account  of  some  other  buildings,  it  was  found  necessary  to  open  a  gap  in  this  very  wall^  for  a  pas* 
sage  for  carts,  when  the  poor  prisoner  was  found  alive  in  its  strong-hold,  and  humanely  set  at  liberty.  It 
seemed  at  -first,  as  must  naturally  be  supposed^  in  a  very  torpid  state ;  but  it  aoon  recovered  animation  and 
activity ;  and^  as  if  sensible  of  the  blessing  of  freedom^  made  its  way  to  a  collection  of  stones^  and  disappeared; 

t  In  a  curious  book  containing  the.  names  and  crimes  of  people  in  Northumberland,  who  had  incurred  the 
punishment  of  excommunication,  and  were  presented  to  the  Consistory  Court  of  Arches  at  Durham,  is  the 
following :— -*'  Bambrou|;h,  May  21,  168I.  Presented  Thomas  Anderson,  of  Swinhoe,  for  playii^  on  a  bag- 
pipe  before  a  bridegroom  on  a  Sunday,  and  not  frequenting  the  church,  and  for  not  receiving  the  holy  sacra- 
ment."— "  Eliz,  Mills  for  scolding  and  drying  fish  on  the  Lord's,  Day.  William  Young,  of  Budle,  a  common 
swearer."  Signed,^  William  Stuart,  James  Warc,^  John  Osling,  John  Robson,  church-wardens.  In  Dodding- 
ton  parish,  "  John  Chanter  is  presented  for  making  water  against  Che  church  V 

VOL,  I.  5   I 


403  BAMBROUGH  WARD— N.  D. 

indeed  the  whole  building  has  that  appearance.  Old  armour  is  suspended  firom  the 
c^anoel  roof.  Unless  we  conceive  the  outworks  of  the  fortifications  of  Bamhrough 
were  of  neat  extent,  it  is  not  recondleable  that  this  should  he  the  chiurch  founded 

by  king  Oswald.* 

The  town  of  Bamhrough  was  once  a  royal  burgh,  and  the  seat  of  kings,  though  no 
trace  of  its  ancient  consequence  remains.  It  sent  two  members  to  the  S3d  parliament 
of  king  Edward  I.  John  de  Greystang  and  William  le  Coroner.  In  kin^  Edward 
III.'s  tune,  it  contributed  one  vessel  to  the  expedition  against  Calais.  It  gives  name 
to  the  shire  of  Bamhrough,  containing  the  baronies  of  Bradford,  Vicpunt,  and  Mus- 
champe,  formerly  a  separate  franchise,  and  possessed  of  certain  immunities  and  privi- 
leges, now  obsolete.  In  1187»  during  the  rAgn  of  king  Henry  I.  a  monastry  was 
founded  at  Bambrousfa  for  Canons  Regular  of  the  order  of  St.  Austin,  subordinate 
and  as  a  cell  to  NostiU,  near  Fomfret,  m  the  county  of  York,  valued  at  the  dissolu- 
tion, by  Du^dale,  at  £ll6, 12s.  »d.  but  by  Speed,  at  £184, 15^.  7d.  The  sdte  of  the 
monastry,  with  its  possessions  as  parcel  of  St.  Oswald  of  Nostill,  were  granted  to  John 
Forster,  87  king  Henry  VIII.  as  is  set  forth  in  Tanner's  Notitia,  p.  89S.  King 
Henry  gave  the  churches  of  St.  Oswald  and  St  Aidan  here  to  the  beiore-mentidned 
priory.  By  license  of  king  Edward  II.  an  hospital  was  founded  her^,  dedicated  to 
Mary  Magdalen.  Leland  speaks  of  a  fair  college  a  little  without  Bamhrough.  This 
was  a  religious  house  founded  by  king  Henry  III.  for  preaching  friars.  Queen  Eli- 
zabeth, in  the  second  year  of  her  reign,  granted  the  scite  to  Thomas  Reeve  and  Ni- 
cholas Finder.  Bamhrough  was  a  very  extensive  deanery,  compreh^iding  a  tract 
from  Berwick  to  Kirk  Newton,  including  Norham. 

It  is  recorded  of  St.  Aidan's  church,  that  John  le  Vicount,  .the  great  grandsfon  of 
Odoard,  baron  of  Embleton,  gate  to  it  all  his  lands,  called  Ilokemors,  in  lieu  of  his 
tythes  in  Burton.    He  also  held  six  oxgangs  of  land  in  the  parish  of  Bamhrough, 

*  There  are  monuments  of  the  Fonter  family  in  this  churchy  and  as  they  contain  some  history  of  the 
ftmily,  the  following  inscription  may  be  acceptable  to  the  reader :— - 

''  In  the  vault  below  lie  buried  the  bodies  of  William,  John,  and  Ferdinando,  sons  of  Sir  William  Forster, 
of  Bamhrough,  knt  by  Dorothy,  daughter  of  Sir  William  Selby  of  Twiael,  hart  and  by  Eleanor,  daughter 
of  Ferdinando  lord  Fairfax,  of  Denton.— William  was  bom  the  SSth  of  July,  1666;  married  Elizabeth, 
daughter  of  William  Pert,  Esq. ;  died  the  Ist  of  Sept.  1700,  without  issue. — John  was  bom  the  29th  Sept. 
166S;  died  the  15th  November,  1699*— Ferdinando  was  bom  the  14th  of  Feb.  1669;  died  the  22d  of  Aug. 
1701 :  both  unmarried.-»They  had  another  brother,  Nicholas,  who  died  young,  and  was  buried  in  the  churdi 
of  South  Bailey  in^  Durham ;  as  also  five  sisters.— -Eleanor,  and  Dorothy,  who  died  very  young.  Frances, 
married  to  Thomas  Forster,  Esq.  of  Etherstone,  to  whom  sh^  had  several  children.  Mary,  who  died  unmar- 
ried.  And  Dorothy,  wife  to  the  right  honourable  the  lord  Crewe,  lord  bishop  of  Durham,  of  whom  their 
mother  died.  She  being  the  only  one  remaining  of  the  ftmily,  set  up  this  monument  in  memory  of  her  dear 
brothers,  as  the  last  respect  that  could  be  paid  them  for  their  trae  affection  to  the  church,  the  monarchy, 
their  country,  and  their  sister,  A.  D.  171 1.    This  being  the  bnrying-place  of  their  ancestors." 

In  Mr.  Randal's  ManuscripU  it  is  stated,  that  **  Bamhrough  was  afterwards  granted  to  his  (Thomas  Fors- 
ter,  Esq.  mentioned  above)  grandson,  Claudius  Forster,  Esq.  Mar.  15,  7  king  James  I.  Dorothy,  the  only 
child  of  William  Forster,  knt  marrying  Nathaniel  lord  Crewe,  bishop  of  Durham,  and  baron  of  Stene,  in  the 
county  of  Northampton,  July  83,  1700,  brought  with  her  the  esUtes  of  Bamhrough  and  SlancUand.  She 
died  without  issue. 


mm 


«i^ 


'^ 


.  BAMSnOITGa.  1FA(R1SH.    .  40ft 

gying  seren  fthSMn^  ptt  annum  for  tte  fairm  of  the1x»tmgli.    The  grant  of  this 
m  was  madcf  by  king  Henrf  IL*         ;    ' 

'  '     '  • 

Bambeough  Castle.— -The  venerable  remains  of  this  celebrated  fortress  stands 
on  tiie  crown  of  a  high  rock,  triangular  in  fi^re,  one  of  the  points  (mjecting  into 
the  sea.  The  rock  is  beautifully  besprinkled  with  lichens  of  various  rich  tints.  Many 
of  the  buildings  stand  on  the  very  brink  of  the  rocks,  to  tiie  land  side :  the  aspect 
towaords  the  sea  is  very  lofty,  being  near  150  perpendicular  feet  above  the  level  of  low 
water  mark.  Fart  of  the  most  ancient  fortifications  on  the  hmd  side  are  broken  and 
defaced,  by  the  falling  of  the  difis  on  which  they  were  erected,  and  which  lie  upon  a 
stratum  of  mouldering  stone,  apparentiy  scorched  with  violent  heat,  and  havitag  beneath 
it  a  dose  flinty  sandstone.  Cm  this  side  a  circular  tower  remains,  of  very  antique 
construction,  its  base  projecting  in  several  tiers.  Many  of  the  other  buildings  appear 
to  be  the  work  of  more  modem  ages,  till  approaching  the  gate-way,  which  is  on  the 
only  accessible  part  of  the  rock ;  it  was  defended  by  a  deep  ditch,  cut  through  a  nar- 
row neck  communicating  with  the  main  land,  havmg  a  draw-bridge :  this  hes  to  the 
south'-east,  and  on  the  brink  of  the  predpice  above  the  sea-shore.  The  gate-way  is 
strengthened  by  a  round  tower  on  eacn  side,  from  whence  passing  about  twelve  paces, 
whicn  space  appears  to  have  been  formerly  a  covered  way,  you  amiroach>  a  second  and 
madiicolated  gate,  of  a  much  more  modem  order  of  building,  having  a  portcullis. 
After  passing  the  second  gate,  on  the  Jeft  hand,  on  a  lofty  point  of  the  rock,  stands  a 
very  ancient  round  tower,  of  great  strength,  commanding  the  pass.  Assailants  hav- 
ing won  this  approach,  entered  upon  a  situation  of  imminent  danger  on  a  tremendous 
predpice,  subject  to  every  kind  of  annoyance  from  the  besieged,  who  possessed  the 
round  tower. 

Mr.  Grose  says,  that  every  part  of  the  present  buildings  seems  to  be  the  work  of 
the  Normans.  Others,  however,  from  the  figure,  material,  arching,  windows,  bases, 
and  other  parts  of  the  round  tower,  attribute  its  erection  to  the  Saxons ;  while  Mr. 
WaUis  beheves  the  keep  to  be  of  Roman  ori^n,  because  the  architecture  of  the  base 
is  of  the  Doric  order.  However  this  may  be,  we  may  fairly  condude  that  this  was 
the  sdte  of  one  of  the  Castella  buUt  by  Agricola  in  his  third  campaign.  When  the 
natural  strength  of  this  commanding  rock  is  considered,  the  great  fertility  of  the  ad- 
joining coast,  and  the  conveniency  of  such  a  post  to  the  Roman  navy  and  shipping,  it 
amounts  almost  to  a  certltinty  that  these  military  people  would  not  neglect  to  occupy 
it  The  justness  of  this  reasoning  is  confirmed  by  the  dicumstanoe  of  three  Roman 
denarii^  one  of  them  a  Vespasian,  being  found  here.  The  castles  of  Tynemouth, 
Dunstanbrough,  and  this,  stand  in  a  line,  as  Affricola*s  chain  of  forts  crossed  the 
country  between  the  two  seas ;  and  it  is  very  likdy  that  the  first  foundations  of  all 

*  On  the  19th  of  March,  1794,  the  mayor  of  Newcastle  received  two  letters;  the  one  signed  Henry  Grey, 
Bonbrough,  and  the  other  Thomas  Yomigfausband,  Tugi^  Hall,  stating  that  a  strong  party  €4t  the  Frendi 
had  Umded  near  Bambrough,  and  were  plundering  the  adjoining  country.  The  alarm  occasioned  by  this  in* 
tdligenoe  was  excessive,  the  North  York  Militia  fleW  to  arms,  and  other  preparations  were  made.  The  affidr 
was  mentioned  in  parliament,  and  government  tifibed  SLStiL  reward  ftr  the  discovery  of  the  writer  or  writers 
«f  these  letters. 


404  BAMBSIDiJI&Hl  ynSSKEty^M^.  D. 

thifee^ere  RomaB.  It »  wdl  knowii  -tiiiat  ilte-  Aaxons  buik  their  'i6a&e»t  wben  tfwr 
could,  on  Roman  foundations,  and  gave  them  the  mio^  o£  but^gh  exiA  hrough. 

The  keep  is  a  lofty  square  structure,  of  that  kind  of  architecture  which  prevailed 
fi^om  the  CoHqitert  ^  about  the  tiioe  of  ISbmty  M.  The  stones  vnth  whkh.ili  is 
hailt .  are  renwratiMyisgfcalX  and  weng  ta]Geii:!fi9m  a  quarry  at  North .  Suoderliuid^ 
thre^  miles  distant.  ^xWfKxti  their 'sstiallhes^  it Ims  ^bedn  bonjectured  tibey  were  farou^rt 
hither  on  the  hacks  of  ixiien  or  horses.  The  Vinalls  to  the  front  are  11  feet  thicks :  but 
the  other  thre^  sides  !«re  only  nine.  The  original  roof  Was  placed  no  higher  thui  the 
ISop  of  the  beoondirtdry.  The  reason  for  the  side  walls  being  carried  so  much,  higher 
thaa  the  roo£^,  might  be  for  the  sake  of  defence,  or  to  command  a  more  Extensive 
look-out,  both  tdwaffdfi  tJke  sea  and  land^  The  toiwer  was, .  however,  afterwards,  eoi^essd 
at  the  top«  .  Here  were  no  diimneys:  the  only  fii^-place  in  it  was  a  grate  iiij  the 
middle  <»  a  krge  ro6m,  sitpposed  to  have  beisn  ;me  guard-room,  where  abme  stoneBrdn 
thfe  middle  of  the  floor  are  l>urmd  red.  This  floor  was  all  of  stone,  supported,  by 
ait^s.  This  room  had  a  window  in  it  near  the  top, :  three  fbet  square,  ihtended  t» 
let  out  the  snkoke;  All  the  other  rooms  were  lighted  i>y  slits  or  chinks  in;  tlie.  waHs, 
six  inches  broad.  The  outworks  are  buihiof  a  vety  different  stone  from  tbatof  the 
keep,  being  a  coarse  ireestone  of  an  inferior  quatity,  ill  calculated  to.  sustain  tfte  inju« 
lies  of  the  weather;  taken  from. the  rock  itself.  In  all  the  primapal;  rooms  in  oie 
outworks  there  are  chimneys,  particularly  in  the  kitchen,  which  measures  40  feet  hy 
SO  feet,  where  there  are  three  very  large  oosies,  and  four  windows ;  over  each  window 
is  a  stone  funnel,  like  a  chrmhey  open  at  the  top,  intended,  as  it  is  supposed,  to  cany 
off  the  steam.  In  a  narrow  passage,  near  the  top  of  die  keep,  was  found  upwards  of 
50  iron  heads  of  arrows,  rusted  together  into  a  mass ;'  the  longest  of  them  about  7^ 
inches.  In  December,  1770,  in  sinking  the  floor  of  the  cellar,  the  draw-well  wasac^ 
cidentally  found:  its  depth  is  Its  feet,  cut  thkotigh  die  solid  rock,  of  which  75  feet 
i3  of  hard  whinstone*  In  the  summer  of  the  year  177S,  in  throwing  over  the  bank  a 
prbdigiotis  quantity  of  Isand,  the  remains  of  the  chapel  were  discovered,  in  length  100 
feet.  The  chancel,  which  is  now  quite  cleared,  is  36  feet  k>ng  and  SO  feet  brobd*;  the 
east  end,  aecor£ng  to  the  Saxon  fashion,  semicht;ular«  The  altar,  wl»jeh  has  be^i 
likewise  found,  did  not  stand  dose  to  the  east  end,  but  in  the  centre  of  the  semicirde, 
with  a  walk  about  it,  three  feet  broad,  left  for  the  priest  to  carry  the  Host  in  proces- 
sk)h*  The  fbnt,  richly  carved,  is  also  remaining,  and  is  now  preserved.amongstthe 
curiosities  in  the  keep. 

Ida,  the  first  Saxon,  king  of  Northumbria,  is  said  to  have  fortified  this  rock..  On 
the  conversi6n  of  tbe  Saxotl^,  the  chapel  was  erected  within  the  walls,  and  dedicttted 
by  king  Oswald  to  St  Aidafeu  Hoveden^  tvhoi.wtote  abbiit  the  year  119S»  says» 
'^  Bebba  is  a  very  strong  dSy,  but  not  exceeding. lal^;  ;OQntaining  hot  mote  than  two 
or  three  acres  of  ground.  It  has  but  one  hollow  entrance  into  it,  which  is  admirably 
raised  by  steps.  On  the  top  of  the  hill,  stands  £^  fair  church ;  and  in  the  western 
point  is  a  weu,  curiously  adorned,  -apd  of  sweet  plean*  water.*' 

This  ancient  fortress  has  fipnished  histoiy  wjith  many  memorable  events,  ,.  Fendsg 
king  of  Mercia,  in  the  year  6^2^  having  r^'vjfig^ ;  ^orthumber^^^  as  far  as  £am^ 
brough,  laid  si^  to  it,  and  not  be^xjig  abl^  to  ;t4^  the  place  by  storm,  attempted  to 
bum  it,  by  raising  huge  piles  of  wood  against  the  walls,  and  setting  them  on  fire ; 


BAMBROUGH  PARISH.  405 

# 

but  when  his  madiines  were  fully  prepared^ .  and  his  pUes  were  burning,  the  wind 
suddenly  chansed,  and  blowing  a  storm,  the  blazing  faggots  were  earned  into  his 
camp,  and  mtade  a  great  destruction,  insomuch  that  he  was  obliged  to  raise  the  siege. 
This  deliverance  was  ascribed  to  the  prayers  of  Aidan,  bishop  of  Lindisfam,  who  was 
then  resident  on  the  Farn  Island.  Oswald's  great  zeal  for  the  conversion  of  his  peo- 
ple, his  bounties  to  the  church,  and  his  suffering  under  the  hand  of  a  Pagan  conqueror, 
procured  him  the  immortal  honoim^  of  a  saint  and  a  martyr.  His  arms  were  preserved 
as  relics  in  the  churdi  at  Bambrough,  and  were  believed  to  remain  uncorrupted, 
through  the  influence  of  a  blessing  pronounced  on  them  by  Aidan,  whilst  domg  a 
smgukr  act  of  charity.    This  shrine  wrought,  it  is  said,  many  wonderful  cures. 

After  the  death  of  Alfred,  king  of  Northumbria,  the  crown  was  usurped  bv  Ear- 
dulf,  to  the  prejudice  of  Osrid,  Aured's  eldest  son,  then  an  infant  of  the  age  of  eight 
years.  As  this  act  of  Eardulfs*  portended  imminent  peril  to  the  young  prince, 
Berthfrid,  a  z^ous  adherent  to  Alfred  and  his  family,  seized  the  eastle  of  Bambrough, 
where  he  placed  Osrid.  It  was  not  long  before  the  usurps  ]|ud  siege  to  the  place ; 
but  it  was  so  well  defended  as  to  bafile  allhis  attempts,  and  his  assaults  were  attended 
with  a  succession  of  ill  fortune.  Whilst  Eardulf  remained  before  the  walk,  the  peo- 
ple in  general  declared  for  Osrid ;  and  having  levied  a  eonsideamble  army,  advanced 
towards  the  usurper,  who  being  informed  of  this  unexpected  change  in  the  sentiments 
of  the  people,  prepared  to  raise  the  si^B;e,  and  drnw  off  his  troops.  Berthfrid,  at  this 
instant,  made  a  vigorous  sally ;  the  acUrersaries  were  thrown  into  confusion  and  soon 
routed ;  Eardulf  was  t^^ti  prisoner,  and  immediately  executed ;  and  Osrid  ascended 
the  throne  of  his  ancestors,  to  the  great  joy  of  his  subjects. 

This  was  the  place  of  Aired  the  tyrant's  retirement,  when  he  fled  from  York,  to 
avoid  the  dangers  of  civil  commotion,  having  in  the  ninth  year  of  his  reign  been  de^ 
serted  bv  his  familv  and  nobles.  In  the  reign  of  king  Egb^t,  this  castle  was  the 
prison  of  Cynewol^  bishop  of  Lindisfarn :  his  imprisonment  began  in  750,  and  conti<i^ 
nued  for  thirty  years.  According  to  Florence  of  Worcester,  iUred,  the  son  of  Ear- 
dulf, whom  Athelstan  expelled,  in  the  year  926  seized  this  fortress,  and  made  himself 
master  of  the  dependent  territories, .  but  was  soon  forced  to  fly  before  the  arms  of 
Athelstan.  In  tEe  descent  made  by  the  Danes  about  the  year  933,  this  fortress  suf^ 
fered  greatly,  but  wa^  soon  afterwards  restored,  and  new  works  were  addedL  It  is 
said  a  great  booty  fell  into  the  bands  of  these  invaders,  by  the  reduction  of  Bambrough, 

Walteof,  the  first  of  that  name,  earl  of  Northumberland,  being  feeble  and  weak 
with  age,  and  unable  to  oppose  Malcolm,  king  of  $cots,  at  the  head  of  a  numerous 
army,  made  this  royal  fabric  his  retreat,  till  he  was  freed  from  his  fears  by  the  valour 
of  his  son,  Uchtred,  The  conqueror  received  from  king  Ethelred  his  daughter,  the 
princess  Edgiva,  in  marriage^  and  with  her  the  earldom  of  Northumberland,  and  the 
county  of  Yorkshire,  for  a  portion ;  old  Walteof  resigning  this  royal  fortress,  and  his 
other  castles  and  government,  to  his  son,  thus  allied  to  the  throne. 

In  the  year  1015,  the  Danes  again  besieged  and  took  Bambrough,  and  pillaged  it. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  in  good  repair  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  when  it  is  probable 
it  was  put  into  the  custo^  of  some  trusty  Norman,  and  had  additions  made  to  the 
works;  as  the  present  area  contained  within  its  walk  weanures  upwfurds  of  eight 
»GreSy  instead  of  three,  9s  ^^scribed  by  Hoveden. 

VOL.  I.  9  K 


406  BAMBftO0GH  WARD—N:  D. 

Whilst  Malbolm»  king  of  Sootlahd^  wM  carrying  his  horrid  ravages  along  the  banks 
of  the  Tees^  Gospatric  made  an  iocur^oti  into  Cutn&rland,  which  the  Scottish  king  then 
held  by  force  of  arms,  and,  hayhig  ladd  waste  the  country,  he  returned  to  Bambrough 
loaden  with  spoils.  In  the  reign  of  WiQiam  II.  A.  I).  1095,  on  the  defection  of 
Mowbray,  eaari  of  Northumberland,  the  royal  troops  laid  siege  to  lElaitibrough,  under 
the  command  of  the  soTere»n,  the  eatl  having  taken  refuge  there.  The  king,  finding 
the  place  impregnable,  to  distress  the  garrison,  and  cut  oft  all  succours  of  men  and 
provisions,  erected  a  fortress  in  the  neighbourhood,  according  to  the  art  of  war  pracv 
tised  in  those  days,  which  was  named  Mahoism,  or  the  bad  neighbour,  in  whicn  he 
placed  a  strong  garrison,  -and  drew  off  the  main  body  of  his  army  southward.  Thi^ 
earl,  by  means  of  a  secret  correspondence  held  with  some  of  the  garrison  of  Newcastle, 
had  entertained  hopes  of  making  himself  master  of  that  place :  with  this  intent,  under 
covert  of  the  night,  he  set  out  m>m  Bambrough,  accompanied  W  SO  horsemen ;  but 
being  observed  by  the  garrison  of  Malvoisin,  was  pursued.  When  he  arrived  at 
Newcastle,  he  foimd  the  gates  shut  against  him,  and  the  garrison  apprized  of  his  in- 
tention. He  waisp  now  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  flying  to  the  nKmastry  of  St.  Oswin, 
at  Tynemouth,  where  he*  was  bes^ged  six  days,  and  wounded.  At  length,  he  and 
his  f(Aowers  having  retired  to  the  sanctuary,  in  defiance  of  the  holy  piescription  were 
dragged  fbrdi,  and  deSfvered  up  prisowers  to  the  kin^.  His  wife,  with  one  Morad, 
his  kinsman  afnd  lieutenant,  stiB  held  out  against  the  besiegers,  and  kept  the  castle  of 
Bambrough,  in  defiance  of  every  assault,  and  every  device  then  practised  in  sieges. 
Tl»  king,  wearied  with  this  unsuccessful  nrocedure,  led  forth  his  prisoner  before  the 
walls,  and  threatened  instantly  to  put  out  nis  eyes,  and  give  him  up  to  torture,  if  the 
gttrrison  did  not  surrender.  Moreel,  overcome  by  the  threatening  calamity  which 
impended  on  the  head  of  his  lord,  capitulated;  and,  for  his  bravery  and  singular 
fidelity,  the  king  pardoned  his  offences,  and  took  him  into  favour ;  at  the  same  time 
sparing  the  earVs  life,  committing  him  prisoner  to  the  castle  of  Windsor. 

In  ttie  next  reign  it  was  entrusted  by  king  Henry  I.  to  Eustace  Fitz-John,  who 
was  dispossessed  of  it  and  his  other  employments  by  king  Stephen,  jealous  of  his  at- 
tachment to  Maud,  daughter  of  king  Henry  I.  Irritated  at  this  injury,  Fitz-John 
attached  himself  to  David,  king  of  Scotland,  and  levied  a  great  force  from  his  barony 
of  Alnwick,  with  which  he  openly  joined  the  Scotch  invader.  They  marched  tOTtaras 
Bambrough,  and  made  a  regular  attack ;  but  so  far  from  being  able  to  possess  the 
place,  th^  only  forced  an  outwork,  which  had  been  lately  erected,  and  put  to  the 
sword  about  100  of  its  defenders.  After  destroying  the  com;  hamlets,  and  erections 
in  the  adjacent  coimtry,  they  marched  southward,  with  king  David  at  their  head,  to 
Northallerton,  and  soon  after  were  defeated  at  the  hai^  qftlfie  sttrndard. 

King  Henry  II.  in  the  third  year  of  his  reign,  had  restored  to  him,  by  Makolm  IV. 
king  of  Scotland,  the  northern  territories,  which  king  Stepheh  had  granted  to  David, 
king  of  Scotland :  and  therewith  king  Henry  was  put  in  possession  of  Carlisle,  the 
casfle  of  Bambrough,  and  Newcastle  upon  Tyne.  It  is  presumed  by  some  authors^ 
that  David  having  taken  advantage  of  the  broik  in  which  king  Stephen  was  involved^ 
had  seized  the  cattle  of  Bambrough ;  as  in  the  treaty  when  the  earldom  of  Northum- 
berland was  resigned  to  prince  Henry,  the  king  of  Scotland's  son,  this  fortress  and 
Newcastle  were  expressly  reserved  to  the  crown  of  England.    In  the  iOth  year  of 


B AMBROUGH  PARISH.  407 

Heifry  IL's  i^n,  some  greftt  work  iekmn  i&have  bdin  wAdoed  to  this  duitiie,  as  in 
Madox's  History  of  the  Kxcheqner,  unddrtiie  title  of  Aidercements,  it  appears  one 
WiHiaiti,  son  of  Waldef,  ^mmtd  five  marks  fdr  refusing  his  adsistante  in  tne  kin^a 
works  at  Baenhurg  CoBlie :  he  was  ihiM  also  40^;  td  have  a  respite  touching  the  said 
works.  In  the  time  of  kin^  Richard  I.  Hugh  bishoj[)  of  Dumam  held  diis  castle : 
but  his  powefr  was  of  short  date ;  Sat  the  king  bein^  offended  at  his  insolence,  dis- 
seized htm  o£  this  jdace,  together  with  ihe  county  of  NorthUmberiand,  and  imposed 
on  him  a  iinfe  of  2000  marks.      i  '  • 

'  WMam  Heron,  son  of  Jordan  Heron,  who  held  a  barony  in  this  obtinty  by  the 
service  of  one  knight's  fee,  as  his  ancestors  had  done  from  the  conquest,  was  in  the 
3Sd  year  of  king  Henry  HI.  constituted  governor  of  Bambrough  Castle,  and  of 
Pickering  and  Soarbrougti  in  Ymk^bste^  in  whkh  appohitments  he  was  sucocieded,  in 
the  S7th  year  of  the  same  t^dgn,  by  John  Lexington,  knt  chief  justice  of  the  foresta 
north  of  Trent.  In  1296,  king  Edward  I.  crummdned  John^Balid,  king  of  Scotland^ 
to  renew  his  homage  at  this  castle ;  but  BalicA  contemned  the  eomxnand,  and  Edward,: 
at  the  head  of  a  great  army^  entered  Scotland,  sanid  took  ample  revenge. 

Isabel  de  Beaumont^  related  to  Eleanor,  queen  of  Edward  I.  sister  to  lord  Henry 
Beaumont,  and  widow  bf  John  de  Vescy,  anerwaids  wife  of  John  duke  of  Brabant^ 
had  a  grant  of  tins  casde  fo^  her  life,  on  proviso  that  sftie  did  not  marry  again.  Dui 
ring  her  possession.  Piers  de  G«veston,  earl  of  ComwaU,  was  protected  here  from  the 
vengeance  of  an  injured  and  incensed  nobiHty.  In  1812;  he  was  dragged  from  the 
casti^  (^  ^carbrongn,  and  g^ven  up  to  the  hasids  of  his  enemies.  In  the  year  131 1, 
Bambrough  Castle,  on  the  marriage  of  lady  Vescy,  was  re-assumed  by  government, 
and  given  to  lord  Percy.  In  1955,  earl  Murray  bdng  taken  prisoner  by  king  Ed* 
ward  III.  was  committed  prisoner  to  this  castle,  from  whence  he  was  removed  to 
Nottingham,  and  lasdy  to  Windsor.  It  was  held  for  a  shcNtt  time  by  Roger  Heron, 
ayounger  son  of  William  Heron,  before  mentioned ;  after  which  it  was  conferred  on 
Bfenry  Percy,-  for  his*  good  services  in  the  Scotch  wars.  In  this  fBunily  it  continued 
for  severed  ages ;  and  a  grant  of  this  costie,  together  with  the  manor  and  fee-farms  ot 
the  toWn,  was  made  to  his  gnmdson  for  life.  In  the  reign  of  king  Henry  VI.  Henry 
Percy,  eai'l  of  Noitbumberland,  was  constable.  During  the  contention  between  the! 
king  and  the  bouse  of  York,  there  were  divers  governors,  according  to  the  party  which 
happened  to  be  victorious.  Sir  Ralph  Grey  and  John  lord  Wenlock  were  both  of 
them  constables  for  Henry  VI.  the  latter  in  the  25th  year  of  the  king :  he  neverthe- 
less sided  with  king  Edward  IV.  and  severed  him  at  Towton. 

In  the  second  year  of  the  reign  of  king  Edward  IV.  an  insurrection  of  the  Lancas- 
trian party  appearing  in  the  north,  the  king  advanced  to  Northumberland,  and  at  once 
laid  siege  to  the  cast&s  of  Alnwick,  Dunstanbrough,  and  Bambrough.  Ten  thousand 
forces  invested  the  latter,  under  the  command  of  the  earl  of  Worcester,  the  earl  of 
Arundd,  the  lord  Ogle,  and  the  lord  Montacute.  The  duke  of  Somerset,  the  earl  of 
Pembroke,  lord  Roos»  and  Sir  Ralph  Percy,  maintained  the  fortress  untU  Christmas 
eve,  wh^i  it  was  surrendered.  The  lords  Pembroke  and  Roos  effected  thdr  escape, 
mA  the  duke  oi  Somerset  and  Sir  Ralph  Percy  received  the  royal  pardon.  Queen 
Margtfvet,  sttll  struggling  against  the  torrents  of  adversity,  such,  in  the  whc^e,  as 
royalty  seldom  ever  experiaM^  agidn  tnindb  hMd  in  Northumberland.    Sir  Ralph 


408  BAMBROU6H  WARD—N,  D. 

Gr^  surprised  the  castle  of  Bamfarou^  ifidd  was  then  in  ^be  keerapg  of  Sir  Joiut 
Asuey ;  and  he  garrisoned  it  with  So^eh  troops.  But  the  battle  of  Hexham  Levds 
soon  put  a  final  end  to  these  commotions»  and  gave  a  conclusive  hlow  to  the  hopes  of 
the  house  of  Lancaster*  Sir  Ralph  Grey  and  Sir  Humnhiey  Nevill  were  excepted 
in  the  general  pardcn.  Nevill  soon  alb^wards  suffi^^a  at  Ywk;  but  Sir  Ralph 
Grey»  knowing  his  perilous  state,  held  out  the  castle  of  Bambioufffa  until  Juk-^  The 
knrds  Montacute  and  Warwick  ccmducted  the  sl^e.  A  tower  being  beat  iawB  by 
the  cannon.  Sir  Ralph  received  such  bruises  from  its  fall,  that  he  was  taken  up  foi 
dead ;  and  the  garrison,  dismayed  at  the  catastrophe,  immediatdy  surrendered.  It 
was  Sir  Ralphs  fate  to  survive  the  day,  and  afterwards  to  suffer  death  as  a  traitor  at^ 
York. 

The  damages  the  castle  had  sustained  were  not  rnaired  in  that  or  the  sncoeeding: 
reigns :  king  Henry  VII.  and  king  Henry  VIII.  both  esteemed  those  castles  as  pfecea 
of  refuge  omy  for  maleoontents.  From  the  timeof  king  Edward  IV.  there  is  a  total 
suspCTsion  of  its  history.  By  the  escheats  of  the  10th  <»  aueen  Elizabeth,  it  appeara 
to  be  in  the  crown,  with  the  adjoining  castle  of  Dunstaninrough.  Sir  Jolm  Foster^ 
of  Bambrough  Abbey,  was  then  governor  of  this  castle.  His  grandson,  John  Foster, 
Esq.  had  a  grant  of  the  manor  of  Bambrough  from  king  James ;  but  in  the  year 
1715,  his  descendant  forfeited  the  whde  of  the  fSvnily  possessions,  then  valued  at 
£181 A  per  annum.  They  were  purchased  by  his  Inother-in-law,  lord  Crewe,  wha 
settled  the  whole  at  the  revenues  on  diaritaUe  uses.* 

In  regard  to  natural  strength,  there  is  not  a  situation  in  all  Northumberland  equal 
to  that  of  Bambrough,  or  one  in  any  wise  so  well  adapted  to  the  ancient  rules  of  for- 
tification. From  the  great  tower  there  Is  an  extensive  sea  and  land  prospect,  that 
commands  the  whole  group  of  Fam  Islands,  and  the  castle  of  Hdiy  Isbmd,  which 
from  thence  makes  a  very  lonnidable  appearance ;  and  on  the  mote  distant  pen^isula 
are  discerned  the  town  and  fortifications  of  Barwick*  On  die  othar  side  Dunatan* 
brough  Castle  crowns  the  nearest  cliffs,  behind  which  a  winding  shore  is  seen,  with 
many  little  promontories,  creeks,  and  bays,  beautiAilly  mineled,  mi  spaced  with  mnU 
titudes  of  small  vessek,  lying  in  their  ports  or  under  saiL  The  extreme  point  of  view 
is  Tyn^mouth,  whose  ruined  monastry  gives  an  obelisk  to  terminate  the  landscape^ 
All  the  inland  prospect  gradually  ipdiiies  towaidy  the  sea-banks,  with  many  <x»isider« 

*  Bishop.  Crewe'i  life  was  one  continued  scene  of  politioal  lecgivenation  and  courtly  meanness.  Attached 
lo  the  StuartSy  he  yet,  in  spite  of  indifference  and  insult,  paid  the  most  servile  homage  to  the  princes  of  Nas« 
sau  and  Hanover.  But  his  private  virtues  and  active  henevolenoe  have  veiled  his  public  errors.  In  l69i9« 
he  married  Dorothy  Fpster^  daughter  of  Sir  William  Toster  of  Bambrough  Castie,  and  sister  of  J<^n  Foster^ 
Esq.  M.  P.  She  was  reputed  a  beauty,  and  not  without  r^son»  if  we  may  trus^  her  portrait  at  Bambrough, 
which  represents  her  with  delicate  features,  blue  eyes,  light  hair^  a  complexion  beautifully  lair,  and  a  soft 
good*natured  countenance.  She  was  buried  in  171^>  at  Stene  in  Leicestershire,  The  bishop  often  spent 
hours  in  contemplation  at  the  foot  of  her  Amend  monument ;  but  he  took  occasion  to  express  to  Db,  Grey  hie 
disgust  at  the  sight  of  a  ghastiy  skuU,  which  the  sculptor  had  placed  there;  and  Dr.  Grey,  every  ready  to 
spare  his  beneficent  patron  a  moment  of  uneasiness,  immediately  sent  to  the  aitist,  and  asked  him  whether 
he  could  not  convert  the  skull  into  some  less  offensive  object  ^  Yes,"  said  he,  after  a  short  coosMenticbt 
"  I  can  change  it  into  a  hnnch  cfgrapeg  ;**  and  it  was  ftirdiwith  done.-^^tirtoet*  Hist,  iffDurhtui^ 


BAMBROUGH  PABJSH.  409 


able  siveUs,  displaying  a  fine  cultivated  scene  to  the  eye,  yaried  with  innumerable 
villages  and  hamlets* 

Here  it  is  proper  to  give  a  particular  detail  of  the  charity  of  lord  Crewe,  which 
exhibits  the  most  enlightened  and  benevelent  views,  and  have  been  productive  of 
more  good  than  perhaps  was  ever  produced  by  a  private  donation  in  this  country. 
His  wSl  bears  date  the  24th  of  June,  17S0,  and  he  died  the  18th  oi  September,  in  the 
88th  year  of  his  age,  at  Stene,  the  seat  of  his  ancestors  in  Leicestershire.  This 
bequest  was  judiciously  not  shadded  with .  mmierovs  restiictive  dauses ;  and  its  ex-» 
tension  and  excelknt  •  iapplication  wete  planned  and .  executed  by  the  late  Dr.  John 
Sharp,  one  of  the  trustees.  With  tittle  assistance  firom  the  trust,  in  comparison  with 
tihe  large  sums  which,  from  the  year  1750  to  his  death,  he  constantly  expended  from 
his  own  purse,  he  ^^  restored  the  great  towier  from  a.  state  of  ruin,  a^  converted  it 
into  a  comfortable  aend  convenient  rmonaob  foor  himsdf  and  his  successors ;  and  that  it 
might  never  want  u  fund  fw  future  reparation^  he  pmrdiafied  lands  in  the  neighbour^ 
hood  to  the  amomit  6f  £86^,1^^^  and  a*  his  death  bequeathed  the  sum  of  £e^5,  11^* 
9d.  to  be  vested  in  lands  and  other  secnritii^y  and.  directed  the  rents  and  inter^t  to 
be  applied  to  such  repaisrs.  By  residing  ^  there.  Dr.  Sharp  was  enabled,  to  direct  a 
large  part  of  the  unapprc^riated  revemies  of  the  trust  estate  to  the  foundation  of 
those  duffitable  insritutions  which  flourish  at  Bambrough  Castle.  Whatever  inu 
prov«ment  may  be  conceived,  whatever  extension  of  the  estaUishmaat  may  be  devised^ 
the  principal  and  original  merit  is  due  to  the  liberal  philanthropy  and  indefatigable 
Keal  and  activity  of  the  kte  Reverend  Dr.  John  Sharp.     He  died  April  28,  179S."* 

One  large  room  hi  the  keep  is  used  as  a  oourt^room  for  the  manor.  The  drawing'-room 
is  hung  iroiind  with  tapestry^  in  which  is  wrought  the  fife  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  and  de^ 
coratea  with  portraits  of  lord  and  lady  Crewe  and  Dr.  Sharp.  Here  is  also  a  small  ar« 
moury,  annd  a  most  vahiable  callectioa  of  fmmed  prints  But  the  greater  part  of  this 
spacious  edifice  is  allotted  to  purposes  ^  winch'  make  the  heart  to  gk)w  with  joy  wheQ 
tnoiight  of."f  The  Ainrfy. contains,  an  extensive  collection  of  theological  boobs, 
classics,  and  a  curious  assemblage  of  tmcts  and  pamphlets,  chiefly  historical  and  theo- 
logical.   The  trustees  laid  the  £st  feiuidarion  lor  this  library  in  1778,  by  the  p\u*cha89 

^  PilsAK^e  to  tfas  Caldogvo  of  BftnOMXM]^ 

t  The  chapel  tbsl  cKowBtd  tb«;foutb-«ast  point  of  the  castle's  ar.^,  and  which  had  long  remained  undnished^ 
has  been  taken  down ;  and  0ie  wall*  that  str^ched  j&om  that  point  towards  the  keep^  together  with  two 
flanking  towers,  hwe  been  cot^pl^tely  napatred.  A  walk  of  four  feet  in  width  runs  along  the  top  of  the  wall, 
having.  OB  one  side  of  it  embrasures,  and  on  the  other  a  parapet  wall.  The  masonry  is  well  executed,  and 
the  whole  has  a  noble  and  commanding  appearance. 

The  stroDg  westerly  winds  that  prevailed  in  IS  1 7  removed  a  great  mass  of  sand,  and,  at  the  distance  of 
about  200  yards  in  a  south-easterly  direction  from  the  porter's  lodge,  laid  bare  a  burial-ground,  which  must 
have, been  covered  for  ages,  as  hot  the  least  discovery  had  been  made  diat  might  even  produce  a  supposltioa 
that' such  a  place  was  so  neat*  t£e  casde.  The  graves  had  been  formed  with  flag  stones  set  on  edge.  From 
an  idea  entertained  by  many,  that  tometbing  of  value  might  be  found,  they  have  scarcely  left  any  of  th^ 
graves  unexj^ored,  which  ha^  grcfttly*  tended  to  remove  the  traces  of  them  7  and  the  stones  being  principally 
of  soft  freestone  and  slate,  perish  fast  from  the  effects  of  weather.  The  part  uncovered  at  prtaent  is  alMriit 
one  quarter  of  an  acre ;  and,  apparently,  more  lies  hid  under  the  sand. 

VOL.  I. — (18)  /  5  L 


410  BAHIBIIOUGH  WARDEN.  D. 

of  the  entire  collection  of  the  Aeverend  Thomas  Shiurp,  eurate  of  Bamfarough,  at  an 
expense  of  £360.  Some  additions  were  afterwards  made  by  the  late  Dr.  John  Shalp, 
whO)  on  his  death,  bequeathed  his  own  valaable  lilHary  to  the  institution.  In  this 
munificent  donation  (valued  by  Mr.  Chamley  at  £808,  Ifo.  9d.)  is  comprehended  the 
most  valuable  part  of  the  library  of  Dr.  John  Sharp^  ardibishop  of  York.  At  his 
death,  which  happened  at  Bath  on  the  2d  February,  1714,  the  prindpal  part  of  his 
library  descendea  to  his  son.  Dr.  Thomas  Sharps  prebendary'  of  Durham ;  and  at  his 
decease  in  1758,  to  his  grandson,  the  late  Dr.  John  ShaJ^,  duritig  which  succesrion  it 
was  from  time  to  time  enriched  by  valuable  additions.  The  library  is  op^ied  every 
Saturday  from  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning  till  one  ih  the  afternoon,  when  books  are 
lent  gratis  to  any  well-known  housekeeper  usually  residing  within  20  miles  of  Bam- 
brough,  or  to  any  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  En^and,  dissenting  minister,  or  Bxxnan 
Catholic  priest,  appointed  to  serve  in  any  church,  diapdl,  or  place  of  worship  within 
the  said  oistance,  though  such  clergyman,  minister,  or  priest,  oe  not  a  housekeeper. 

The  scJunds  in  the  castle  are  -opened  to  an  unlimited  number  of  boys  and  girls,  who 
are  taught  gratis,  and  supplied  with  books,  pay,  &c.  £ree  of  exp^ise.  Tli^  number 
tiiat  attends  fluctuates  between  160  and  180.  Thirty  poor  girls  are  admitted  at  about 
nine  years  of  age,  and  found  in  board,  washing,  and  lodging,  and  a  uniform  of  doath* 
in<r,  until  they  are  about  sixteen  years  of  aije,  or  matured  Ux  service.  During  thia 
ti^e.  they  areWt  ««ding.  wri4g,  and^thmetic.  knitting,  sewing,  and  «pilning 
of  jersey  and  lint  When  sent  to  service,  they  are  well  provided  with  good  doathing, 
and  each  a  sum  of  money  amounting  to  £2,  1S«.  Aa  a  further  encouragement  to 
their  industry  and  good  behaviour,  each  one  receives,  at  the  expiration  of  their  first 
year's  servitude  (provided  she  has  remained  in  her  first  situation  for  that  pmod,  and 
obtained  a  good  charadter  from  her  master  or  mistress),  a  further  sum  of  one  guinea, 
with  a  Bibk,  a  Prayer  Book,  the  Whole  Duty  of  Man,  and  Seeker's  Liectures  on  the 
Catechism.  In  the  year  1810,  the  schools  were  organized  according  to  Dr.  Bell's 
system  of  education,  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Bowyer,  archdeacon  of  Nortfaumber* 
land,  who  made  several  ingenious  improvements  on  tne  new  ;|^an.  The  master  of  the 
boys'  school  receives  £60  a  year,  with  a  house  and  fuel  The  other  master  is  paid 
£40  a  year,  with  a  house  and  fuel ;  and  the  mistresses  £20  each. 

The  upper  part  of  the  great  tower  contains  an  ample  granary,  from  whence  the 
poor,  in  times  of  scarcity,  are  supplied  on  low  terms.  There  is  a  meal  market  and 
grocet^s  shop  opened  every  Tuesoay  and  Friday,  for  the  benefit  of  the  industrious 
poor :  the  meal  is  sold  at  reduced  prices,  and  the  groceries  at  prime  cost  As  the  ex- 
tension of  the  charity  is  not  precluded  by  any  fixed  distance  of  place,  the  annual  ave- 
rage number  of  persons  upon  the  list,  as  partaking  of  these  charities,  is  about  1300 ; 
but  in  years  of  particular  scarcity,  the  number  is  much  increased.  A  considerable 
distribution  of  beef  is  made  to  tne  poor  inhabitants  of  Bambrough  every  Christmas. 
An  injirmary  is  also  kept  here,  in  which  many  thousands  of  inmgent  and  diseased 
objects  have  been  relieved :  a  surgeon  attaids  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday.  The 
practice  of  making  the  yearly  returns  of  patients  is  discontinued ;  but  there  are,  on 
an  average,  between  80  and  40  in-patients,  and  above  1000  out-patients,  admitted 
every  year. 


BAMBKOUGH  PARISH.  411 


Other  apaiianents  are  fitted  up  for  dupwi^ked  sailors ;  and  bedding  is  provided 
for  thirty,  should  such  a  number  hapj^n  to  be  cast  on  sbdre  at  the  same  tune.  A 
constant  patrol  is  kept  every  stormy  mght  along  this  tempestuous  coast,  for  above 
di^ht  miles,  the  length  of  the  manor ;  and  whoever  brings  tne  first  notice  of  any  ves- 
sel being  in  distress,  receives  a  premium,  proportioned  to  the  distance  from  the  castle^ 
and  the  darkness  of  the  night*  A  person  attends  at  day-break,  during  winter,  at  the^ 
Observatory,  made  on  the  east  turret  of  the  castle,  to  look  out  if  any  vessel  be  in 
distress.  If  it  happens  that  ships  strike  in  such  a  manner  on  the  rocks  as  to  be  eapa- 
Ue  of  relief,  in  case  a  number  oi  people  could  be  suddenly  assemUed,  a  cannonf  iS' 
fired  to  alarm  the  neighbourhood.  It  is  fired  once  if  the  accident  happ^is  in  such  a 
quarter,  twice  if  in  another,  and  thrice  if  in  such  a  place.  Machines  of  diffemt 
kinds  are  always  in  readiness  to  heave  ships  out  of  their  perilous  situaticni.  A  bell  is 
placed  cm  the  top  of  the  tower,  and  rung  as  a  warning  to  fishing-boats  in  foggy  wea- 
ther ;  and  a  large  swivel,  fixed  on  the  east  turret,  is  med  every  fifteen  minutes,  as  a 
signal  to  the  ships  without  the  islands.  Amongst  other  apparatus  f<Mr  assisting  dis- 
tressed vessels,  the  trustees  have  captain  Manby's.  A  liie4>oat  also  lies  at  Holy 
Island,  where  it  can  be  readily  manned  with  experieoiced  hands,  and  where  they  have 
not  at  the  ec«nmencement  to  contend  with  the  breakers  near  the  main-land.  Pre^ 
miums  are  always  given  to  the  first  boats  that  put  ofi^  frcm  the  island  upon  a.fflgnal 
being  given  from  the  castle.  Storehouses  and  cellars  are  always  kept  in  readiness  for 
the  reception  of  wrecked  goods,  rigging,  &c. ;  and  whenever  any  dead  bodies  are  cast 
ashore,  coffins^  &a  are  provided  gratis,  and  also  the  funeral  expenses  paid.    Thus  this 

■ 

*  The  Northumberland  coast,  in  thd  neighbourhood  of  Bambrough,  is  extv^eiy  dangerous  to  navigaton. 
During  the  dreadful  gale  which  commenced  on  Friday,  SLst  January,  1823,  and  continued  with  little  inter- 
mission for  eight  days,  three  brigs  and  one  sloop  were  driven  on  shore  on  the  sands  immediately  below  the 
castle ;  but  the  crews  were  all  saved  except  one  boy.  Another  brig  was  literally  dashed  to  pieces  at  North 
Sunderland  point,  and  all  on  board  perished.  Near  the  same  place  a  sloop  was  wrecked,  and  a  large  brig 
upon  Harcar  rocks.  An  intelligent  writer  in  the  Newcastle  Courant  of  March  15,  1823,  expresses  his  sur« 
prise  that  a  proper  survey  of  the  course  of  the  tides,  and  of  the  best  places  of  refuge  on  this  coast  in  the  time 
of  distress,  has  not  been  made.  The  water  between  Coquet  Island  and  the  shore  has  often  been  found  a 
place  of  safety ;  and  he  adds,  **  if  there  were  a  life-boat  and  a  light-house  at  the  old  salt-pans  at  the  river's 
mouth,  many  lives  and  much  property  might  be  saved."  All  the  coast  ftom  Newbiggin  to  Boomer  has  a 
number  of  shoals  and  sunk  rocks,  on  which  the  ships  are  driven  by  the  tides,  and  hardly  one  escapes.  Those 
that  suffer  most  are  the  Scotch  and  Sunderland  vessels,  owing  to  the  ignorance  of  their  captains  of  the  set  of 
the  tides,  &c.  The  places  most  dangerous  to  them  are  I>ruridge  bay,  Bondicar  rocks,  and  Birling  scar, 
north  of  the  Coquet  Few  ever  suffer  on  Boomer  strand,  because  the  fade  oanieB  tiiem  dear.  The  low  light 
on  the  Fam  Island  serves  as  a  direction  trough  the  sound  between  Ooldalone  and  the  Ploogh^  near  Hdly 
Island.    It  was  first  lighted  Fdmunry  1,  ISIl. 

t  Once  belonging  to  a  Dutch  IHgate  of  40  guns,  wUdi,  wtA  all  the  anew,  was  lost  opposite  to  the  cud^ 
above  a  century  ago.  The  signals  made  use  of  at  Bambroogh  Castle,  and  the  aimngements  adopted,  in  case 
ships  or  vessels  are  perceived  in  distrats^  have  been  published  by  Um  tnutesi^.  with  the  qqwohaitoi  of  th« 
Trinity^house  in  Newcastle  upon  Tyne. 


BAMBSOUGH  WAWD^N.  D. 


andent  ])|ace  Ibu  henme  as  rtmarkible  for  dwds  cif  huntanity ,  as  it  was  iotmetty  for 
acts  of  valour  uxid  Moodshed.* 

BuBQLE. — This  is  a  small  Tillage  standkig  above  a  fine  sandy  bay,  an  the  south  side 
of  the  Wan^butn.  The  shwes  of  Budle  bay  isfaiii<>U8  for  abundanee  of  exeeUent 
cockles.  Grieve  Smith,  Esq.  the  proprietor,  ha^  ktely  ereeted  an  elegant  and  eom* 
modious  mansion,  in  a  fine  snelterea  situation  not  for  from  the  village. 

^y  the  Testa  de  Nevil  we  are  informed,  that  the  two  villages  ol  Budle  and  Spin- 
dleston^  wit^  the  mifl  of  Wamet,  were  given  to  Eustace,  tm  son  of  John,  by  king 
Hanrr  I; ;  and  that  his  successor,  Eustace  de  Vescy,  held  them  in  the  reign  of  Ed- 
ward 1«  A  mediety  of  Budle  was  held  by  the  three  daughters  of  Sir  George  Bowes, 
of  Stredtlam  Castle,  in  the  bishioprie  of  Durham,  Imight,  14  king  Charles  I.  viz.  EM^ 
zabeth,  Ann,  and  Dorothy ;  whose  ancestor.  Sir  Wffliam  Bowes,  knigfat,  was  cham^ 
berlain  to  the  duke  of  Bedford,  brother  to  king  Henry  V .  and  protector  and  govermn^ 
in  Ftanee,  widi  whom  he  was  sixteen  years  in  that  kingdom,  and  was  called^  Monsieur 
de  Arches.  He  was  a  great  favourite  with  hiis  grace,  and  acquk^  gi*^t  riches.  On 
his  retuam  hcmie,  he  built  the  castle  <^  StreaHam ;  and  in  tiie  ^xt^  year  of  the  p^^ 
of  king  Edward  IV.  he  was^igh  sheriff  of  Northumberland.  Their  fttther,  Sir 
George,  was  in  the  expedition  against  Scodand,  89  kmg  Henry  VIII.  1544,  under 
Edward  S^mour,  can  of  HerVlord^  by  whom,  with  many  others,  he  was  knitted  at 
Leith  near  Edinburgh.  In  the  first  year  of  the  reign  of  queen  Elizabeth  (1558),  he 
was  marshal  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed,  and  had  a  maare  in  the  victory  obtained  ovw 
the  Soots  at  Swinton,  by  Sir  Henry  Percy,  brother  to  Thomas  Percy  the  sixth  earl 
of  Northumberland ;  the  forces  on  both  sides  consisting  of  the  neignbouring  garri- 
MM.  He  was  one  of  her  majesty^  privy  counsellors  in  the  14rth  year  of  her  reign 
(1571),  and  a  represeWtative  in  parliament  for  the  borough  of  Morpeth,  Tjie  year 
following,  he  was  of  the  council  of  York,  for  the  government  of  the  northern  coun- 
ties ;  Henry  Hastings,  earl  of  Huntingdon,  then  lord  president.  His  brother.  Sir 
Robert  Bowes,  knight,  was  captain  of  Worham  castle  in  the  SSd  year  of  the  reign'  of 
king  Henry  VIII.  (1541),  and  was  that  year  in  the  ffrand  cavalcaae  of  the  Yorkshire 
gentlemen,  who,  to  the  number  of  two  hundred,  dothed  in  velvet,  on  fine  horses, 
with  four  thousand  yeomen  and  servants,  tall  and  well  mounted,  made  their  submis- 
sion on  their  knees  to  his  majesty,  and  presented  him  with  £900  on  his  entering  their 
countyj  He  was  their  speaker.  The  year  following  he  was  taken  prisoner  in  an  ex-« 
nedition' against  the  Scots^  and  detained  without  ransQm,  contrary  to  the  laws  of  the 
Marches.  He  wa^  released  in  1543^  by  the  favour  of  the  earl  of  Arran,  th^Ei  regent 
of'  Scotland ;  and  naMKk  treasuret  of  the  army  then  sent  ]»to  France.  He  was  of  the 
council  at  York,  39f  SO  kintf  Henry  VIII.  and  4  king  Edward  VI.  Bamardcatrtle 
being  besieged,  23d  November,  1570,  the  two  brothers  drfended  it  by  their  valour 
for  deven  miys,  and  then  obtained  an  honourable  capitulation.  Sir  Williwn  Bowes, 
kni^t,  was.4»^<of<her.nii^ty's  CQiQfiiimoniers  for  Border-causes  in  Scotland,  in  the 


>  ( 


*  Mi>.  l%miMiTsil,  Me^BrilMI,  fMblftbeii,  im  isas, « jpdem  ieBtytted  Bambroagli  Cistie.— Mr.  Nichobt 
Oliver,  teacher  of  the  mathematics  at  the  castle,  has  obligingly  commamcatBd  sev^nd  partioplan  rcfai^ivf  t^ 
its  institutions* 


BAMBR0U6H  PARISH.  413 

40th  year  of  her  reign,  1597.  He  was  also  her  ambassador  extraordinary  in  that 
kingdom,  in  1599,  and  was  one  of  the  coundl  at  York,  41st  of  her  majesty's  reign, 
and  1  king  James  I.  In  1668,  Budle  was  the  property  of  lady  Forster  and  Mr. 
Richard  Forster  of  Newham ;  and  at  present  it  belongs  to  Grieve  Smith,  £sq«  except 
a  fifth  part,  whidi  is  the  property  of  his  grace  the  duke  of  Northumberland,  and  is 
called  the  "  Duke's  Fields." 

OuTCHESTEE,  or  Ulchestee,  Stands  on  the  north  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Warn, 
and  was  the  Castrum  ulterius,  the  utter  guard  or  fort,  to  secure  the  harbour  and  the 
pass  of  the  river.  The  camp  is  of  a  square  form,  according  to  the  usual  plan  of  the 
Romans.  From  this  place  tnere  are  high  and  bold  r^nains  of  a  Roman  way  towards 
Alnwick,  from  whence  it  probably  passed  to  the  Devil's  Causey  at  Lemmington. 

From  these  circumstances,  Wiammauth  seems  to  have  been  one  of  the  most  ancient 
ports  in  Northumberland,  and  was  evidently  at  one  time  a  town  of  considerable  im« 
portance.*    The  bay  affords  a  safe  harbour  for  vessels  of  about  80  tons.    Wood  and 

*  Copy  of  a  charter  ipranied  by  Henry  III.  to  the  borough  of  Wamemath,  extracted  from  the  original 
charter^  in  the  Tower  of  London  >— 

''  The  king  to  the  archbishops^  &c  greeting.  Know  ye  that  we  hove  granted,  and  by  lliis  our  charter  have 
confirmed^  for  us  and  our  heirs,  to  our  burgesses  of  the  new  borough  of  Wamennitfa,  that  they  and  their  heirs 
for  ever  shall  have  all  the  liberties  and  tree  customs  which  our  burgesses  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne  have  by 
diarter  of  the  l<Nrd,  king  John,  our  fttfaer,  thai  is  to  say^  that  nmie  of  them  shall  be  distrained,  without  the 
same  our  borough  ot  Wamemuth,  to  render  to  any  o|ie  any  debt  whereof  he  is  not  the  principal  debtor  or 
pledge. 

^'  We  have  also  granted  to  them  a  mercatorial  gild,  and  that  none  of  them  that  shall  be  within  their  merca- 
torial  gild  shall  plead  out  of  their  borough  concerning  any  plea,  except  pleaa  of  foreign  tenures.  We  hav€ 
also  granted  to  them  that  none  of  them  shall  have  duel ;  and  that  touching  pleas  pertaining  to  our  crown, 
they  may  traverse  according  to  the  ancient  custom  of  the  city  of  Winchester.  And  that  all  the  burgesses  of 
ttie  aforesaid  borough  of  Wamemuth,  and  their  heirs  of  the  mercatorial  gild,  shall  be  quit  of  toll,  lastage, 
pontage,  and  passage,  as  well  in  fairs  as  without,  and  through  all  the  ports  of  all  our  lands,  as  well  on  this 
ttde  the  sea  as  beyond ;  and  that  no  one  shall  be  condemned  in  amercements  of  money,  unless  according  to 
the  ancient  law  of  the  aforesaid  dty  of  Winchester,  as  they  have  had  in  the  times  of  our  ancestors. 

^'  And  that  they  shall  justly  have  aU  their  lands,  and  tenures,  and  pledges,  and  all  their  debts,  whosoever 
may  owe  the  same  to  them.  And  touching  their  lands  and  tenures  which  are  within  the  borough  aforesaid, 
right  shall  be  bolden  to  them,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  dty  of  Windiester.  And  conceramg  all  l&eir 
ddlits  wfaieh  shall  have  been  contracted  at  the  boroi^h  of  Wamemuth,  and  pledges  made  there,  the  pleas 
shall  be  there  holden. 

*^  Moreover,  if  any  one  in  our  whole  land  shall  have  taken  toll  of  the  men  of  Wamemuth  of  the  mercatorial 
gild,  after  he  shall  have  failed  in  right,  the  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  or  the  reeve  of  Wamemuth,  shall 
diereupon  take  distress  at  Warnemuth. 

«'  We  have  also  granted,  for  the  improvement  of  the  same  borough,  that  aU  shall  be  quit  of  yearsgive  and 
ef  scotale,  so  that  no  sheriff  nor  other  our  bailiff  shidl  take  scotale  within  the  same  borough ;  but  if  customs 
have  been  unjustly  Cdnen  in  time  of  war,  they  shall  altogether  cease, 

"  And  whosoever  shall  come  to  the  borough  of  Wamemuth  with  their  merchandises,  of  whatsoever  place 
diey  may  be,  whether  strangers  or  others,  they  shidl  come,  abide,  and  depart,  in  our  secure  peace,  by  render* 
ing  the  right  and  du«  customs^  and  we  prohibit  lest  any  one  shall  hereupon  impede  them. 

VOL,  I,  5  M 


414  BAMBROUGH  WARD.~N.  D, 

coals  are  still  imported  here,  and  considerable  quantities  of  com  and  flour  are  shipped 
for  exportation.  The  Warn  is  an  exoellent  fishing  stream,  and  near  the  mouth 
abpunas  with  salmon  trout.  But  it  is  chiefly  useful  as  giving  power  to  several  mills. 
Two  mills  for  grinding  com,  and  extensive  granaries,  were  erected  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river,  near  its  mouth,  by  Messrs.  Watson ;  but  they  now  belong  to  Mr.  Philip 
Nairn,  jun.  of  Newcastie.  Some  call  this  small  river  the  fViaren^  and  suppose  that  it 
was  so  named  from  the  extensive  rabbit  warren  at  its  estuary :  but  the  Warn  seems 
to  be  its  proper  appellation,  and  which  Hodgson  conjectures  is  derived  from  the 
circumstance  of  water-mills  being  upon  it  in  the  Saxon  ages ;  the  word  Qpem  in 
Swedish,  and  Quern  in  English,  signifying  a  mill 

Outchester  was  one  of  the  manors  of  the  barony  of  Wooler,  of  which  it  was  held 
by  Sir  Robert  de  Ulchester,  in  the  rei^  of  king  Henrv  III.  and  1  Idi^  Edward  I. 
He  was  one  of  the  commissioners  appomted  S3  king  Henry  III.  1249,  to  recognize 
the  Border-laws,  and  make  new  ones.  It  was  forfeited  to  the  crown  in  1715,  by 
James  earl  of  Derwentwater,  and  now  forms  part  of  the  appropriations  to  Greenwich 
hospital. 

Spindleston  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  Warn,  about  a  mile  from  its  mouth. 
Here  Mr.  Philip  Nairn  has  erected  an  excellent  mill.  There  are  eight  dwelling- 
houses  at  this  place,  which  belongs  to  Greenwich  Hospital.  This  has  been  a  military 
post  of  some  consequence.  The  traces  exist  of  an  entrenehm^rit,  of  a  circular  form, 
and  fortified  with  a  triple  ditch  and  vallum.  To  the  south  are  two  mounts,  and  one  of 
the  same  description  to  the  north :  they  are  conjectured  to  have  be^i  outposts.  To 
the  westward  is  another  entrenchment  which  forms  a  crescent,  and  seems  not  to  be 
the  work  of  the  same  people  who  had  constructed  the  former  fortifications.  It  is  de- 
fended by  a  triple  ditch  and  vallum,  the  interior  vallum  composed  of  uncemented 
stones,  as  was  the  British  custom.  This  commands  a  look-out  to  sea,  and  has  in  view 
the  castles  of  Bambrough  and  Holy  Island. 

The  poem  of  the  Laidley  (or  loathly)  Worm  of  Snindleston-Heughs  is  upwards,  of 
500  years  old,  being  made  by  tiie  old  mountain-bara  Dimcan  Frasier,  living  on  Che- 
viot  in  1270.  It  is  supposed,  with  great  probability,  to  be  of  an  historic  nature,  but 
wrapped  up  in  such  dark  allegory,  the  taste  of  those  times,  as  to  render  it  unintelli- 
nble  in  this  age.  It  might  rdate  to  the  conflicts  of  the  Danes  with  the  garrison  of 
&mlHt>ugh.    Brevard  stands  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Warn. 

"  Wherefore  we  will  and  firmly  oommand,  for  ns  and  our  heirs,  that  onr  afbreaaid  burgesses  of  Wamemuth 
and  their  heirs  for  ever  shall  have  and  hold  all  the  liberties  and  acquittances  aforesaid ;  together  with  all 
other  liberties  and  free  customs  which  the  burgesses  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne  have  had  in  the  times  of  our 
ancestors,  when  they  have  best  and  most  freely  had  the  same,  wdl  and  in  peace,  fully  and  entirely  in  all 
places  and  things  as  is  aforesaid. 

"  Witness,  P.  bishop  of  Hereford ;  R.  'de  Clare,  earl  of  Gloucester  and  Hereford ;  Roger  de  Bigod ;  Mar- 
shall, earl  of  Norfolk ;  John  de  Plesshey ;  William  de  Cantilupe ;  Ralph  Fits  Nicholas ;  Philip  Basset ;  Ber- 
tram  de  Croyoyll ;  Robert  de  Mucegros ;  Paulin  Peyrer ;  and  others.— Given  by  our  hand  at  Wodestok,  the 
twenty-sixth  day  of  April." 

This  charter  was  printed  by  mistake  in  the  History  of  Sunderland,  by  Mr.  George  Garbutt,  published  in 
1S19 ;  JVantemutk  being  supposed  to  mean  JVeonmmth. 


BAMBROUGK  PARISH.  415 

* 

Adperstone  is  situate  three  miles  south-south-east  from  Belford,  at  a  short  dis- 
tahee  to  the  east  of  the  post-road*  It  was  the  manor  aiid  seat  of  the  ancient  family 
erf  the  Forsters ;  of  Sir  Thomas  Fc»ster,  kht.  in  the  reign  of  king  Henry  VIII,  who 
married  Dorothy,  the  daughter  of  Ralph  lord  Ogle»  by  Margaret,  the  daughter  of  Sir 
William  Gascoigne,  of  Gawthorp,  in  the  county  of  York,  knt. ;  of  Thomas  Forster, 
Esq.  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  6  and  14  queen  Elizabeth ;  of  Matthew  Fors- 
ter, Esq.  high  sheriff  of  Ncnrthumberland,  18  lung  James  I. ;  of  Thomas  Forster, 
Esq.  in  the  reign  of  king  Charles  I.  and  II.  who  iharried  Frances,  the  daughter  and 
heir  of  Sir  William  Forster,  of  Bambrou^h  Castle,  knt. ;  of  Thomas  Forster,  Esq. 
high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  3  queen  Anne,  1708 ;  of  Thomas  Forster,  Esq,  who 
died  Slst  March,  1763,  in  the  20th  year  of  his  age.  The  right  line  of  the  family  of 
Forsters  having  then  become  extinct,  the  estate  descended  to  John  William  Bacon, 
Esq.  who  was  nigh  sheriff  of  Northumberland  in  the  same  year.  His  ffreat-grand« 
father,  John  Bacon,  of  Staward,  Esq.  was  high  sheriff  5  king  W  illiam  IIL  1693 ;  also 
his  grandfather,  William  Bacon,  Esq.  1745.  His  father,  John  Bacon,  Esq.  was  Fel- 
low of  the  Royal  Antiquarian  Sodety,  and  governor  of  the  hospitals  or  Bridewdtl 
and  Bethlehem.  Mr.  Bacon  built  a  nandsome  mansion,  at  a  distance  from  the  old 
one,  in  a  pleasant  situation  near  the  river  Warn.  He  did  not  live  long  to  enjoy  his 
improvements,  but  died  in  1767.  Charles  Bacon,  Esq.  sold  the  estate  to  J.  Pratt, 
Esq.  of  Bell's  Hill.    Thomas  Forster,  Esq.  at  present  resides  here. 

LucKER  is  a  small  village  pleasantly  situate  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Warn.  It  is 
a  diapelry  belonging  to  Bambrough  parish.  Here  is  an  excellent  corn-mill,  occupied 
by  Mr.  Caleb  GlahoTm.  The  land  is  farmed  by  Thomas  Forster,  Esq.  of  Adderstone, 
and  Mr.  William  Embleton.  The  village  contains  SO  cottages.  In  Lucker  Hall  is 
kept  a  highly  respectable  boarding-school,  by  Miss  Thompson,  late  of  Middleton 
HaU.  In  1663,  Mr.  Hen.  Ord  and  Mr.  Fr.  Brandling  had  l^ds  here.  It  is  now  the 
property  of  the  Ouke  of  Northumberland. 

HoppEN  lies  nearly  one  tnile  east  from  Lucker.  It  consists  of  a  farmstead  and  six 
cottages.     It  is  the  property  of  W.  J.  Pawson,  Esq.  of  Shawdon. 

Warnford  is  pleasantly  situate  on  the  banks  of  the  Warn,  adjoining  the  post- 
road,  about  four  nules  south  from  Belford,  and  where  there  is  a  brid^  over  the  ford 
from  which  the  place  receives  its  name.  It  was  formerly  a  considerate  village ;  but, 
like  most  other  agricultural  villages,  has  dwindled  into  insignificance.  It,  however, 
contains  a  respectable  public  house,  and  a  Presbyterian  meeting-house,  which,  with 
the  minister's  house,  was  buUt  in  1750  by  the  congrc^tion,  and  is  held  of  the  Duke 
of  Northumberland,  whose  illustrious  grandfather  aUbtted  a  few  acres  of  lan^  to  the 
minister  for  keeping  a  cow  and  a  horse. 

Westward  from  this  village  stands  Ikoissle  House,  the  beautiful  mansion  of  Pri- 
deaux  John  Selbv*  Esq.  the  mresent  high  sheriff  of  the  county.  This  gentleman  is 
equally  distinguisned  for  his  literary  and  mechanical  pursuits,  and  his  spirited  and 
tasteful  rural  improvements.  The  ingenious  oontrivances  adopted  to  heighten  the 
romantic  beauties  of  his  grounds  are  a£nir&Uie,  and  are  much  assisted  by  an  extensive 


416  BAMBROUGH  WARDEN.  D. 


plantation,  and  the  fondful  direction  given  to  tlie  course  of  the  Warn.  Twiatle 
Mcmse  is  also  noted  for  containing  the  most  extensive  and  valuable  museum  of  stuflfed 
birds,  and  other  objects  of  natund  history,  in  the  north  of  En^^land;  and  the  proprie- 
tor is  inde&tigaUe  in  making  additions  to  his  very  curious  oculection. 


MowsoN  lies  to  the  north  of  BeWs  HUl^  the  {feasant  seat  of  John  Pratt,  Esq.  and 
on  the  west  of  the  post^road.  It  belongs  to  the  trustees  of  Hayd<m  Bridge  gram* 
mar-sdiool.  On  tte  east  side  of  the  road,  a  Roman  camp  is  marked  in  Armstrong's 
large  map  of  the  county.  Wartcton  lies  west  of  Mowson,  and  near  to  Wambm 
Law.    It  bel<mg8  to  Thomas  Graham,  Esq.  of  London. 

> 

North  Sunderland,  so  called  to  dktinguish  it  ftom  Sunderland  near  the  Sea,  is 
a  oonsideraUe  maritime  village,  situate  6|  miles  ea8t*soat3i«ea8t  from  BeUbtd,  and  S 
miles  south-Jiyy-east  from  Bambrough.  It  contains  above  A60  inhabitants.  There 
are  twelve  copyholds  in  this  township,  held  of  the  trustees  of  lord  Crewe?s  charity, 
averagmff  50  acres  each.  Some  of  these  k)ts  are  divided  in  half,  and  otiuers  into 
quarter  wares.  Formerly  a  father  would  occasionally  give  £10,  and  ten  acies  of  his 
copyhold,  as  a  dowiy  wim  his  daughter.  Here  is  a  new  and  commodious  inn,  called 
the  Blue  BeQ,  kept  by  Mr.  Thomas  Rochester,  spirit  merchant ;  and  a  public  house. 
A  Presbyterian  meeting-house  was  erected  here  some  years  ago.  The  lime-trade  it 
carried  on  briskly  by  Messrs.  Robson  and  Skelly.  There  are  four  kilns  in  constant 
use,  each  of  which  holds  about  80  fothers.  The  lime  is  exported  in  small  coasting 
vessels  to  Scotland.  Com,  fish,  &c.  are  also  exported,  and  the  inhabitants  display 
considerable  activity  and  industry. 

Shoston,  the  propertv  and  residence  of  lieutenant-colond  John  Grey,  stands 
about  a  mile  north-west  from  Sunderland.  The  house  is  an  old  venerable  building, 
of  three  stories,  which,  at  a  distance,  has  a  very  imposing  appearance.  High  or  New 
ShosUm  belongs  to  the  trustees  of  Bambrough  Castie,  and  is  occupied  by  Robert 
Grey,  Esq.  brother  to  lieut^iant^colonel  Grey.  It  is  a  new,  handsome  house,  erected 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  present  occupant. 

Burton  lies  about  a  mile  and  a  half  south-by-west  from  Baml»*ougfa.  It  consists 
of  one  farmhold,  and  six  cottages  finr  labourers.    It  is  the  property  of  earl  Grey. 

Elford  is  a  small  village,  situate  one  mile  west  from  Sunderland,  and  oonsisting 
of  one  farmhold  and  sev^i  cottases.  It  is  the  property  otf  Henry  Dinning,  Esq.  <^ 
Newlaifids.  The  late  Mr.  Dinning  built  a  poor-house  for  a  nmnber  of  ^  muggers,** 
who  claimed  a  settlement  in  Elford  township ;  but  since  its  erection  no  application 
has  been  made,  nor  have  these  itinerant  traders  been  much  seen  in  this  quarter. 

Beabnel  is  a  beautiful  and  healthy  villaoe,  situate  on  the  coast,  about  six  miles 
south  by  east  from  Bambrough,  and  nine  miSes  south-east  bv  east  from  Belford.  It 
has  a  small  harbour,  which  is  frequented  by  vessels  principally  employed  in  carrying 
bratst  lobst^*S|  and  red  hcninga,  to  the  London  maiioet.    There  \m  been  UmtyA 


BAMEROU6H  PARISH.  417 

large  house  erected  for  curing  the  latter.  White  fish  are  also  brought  into  this  port 
in  great  abundance.  The  lime  and  coal  works  here  have  been  discontinued  for  some 
time  past.  The  chapel  is  an  elegant  small  structure  of  the  Gothic  order,  with  a 
handsome  spire.  The  Hardings  seem  formerly  to  have  held  lands  here,*  and  in  1663 
the  family  of  the  Forsters.  Jonn  Wood,  Esq.  of  this  place,  was  high  sheriff  of  North- 
umberland in  the  year  1791.    George  Taylor,  Esq.  has  also  a  valuable  property  here. 

SwiKHOE,  which  stands  about  a  mile  west  from  Beadnel,  seems  to  have  given  name 
to  a  fsonily  who  held  it  of  the  Vesey  barony ;  for  Thomas  Swinhoe  had  possession  of 
Mowson  in  166S.  Upon  the  marriage  of  Henry  Percy  to  Margaret  the  daughter  of 
Ralph  lord  Nevil,  of  Kaby,  this  manor,  and  that  of  Tuggal,  was  given  to  him  by  his 
father,  92  king  Edward  III.  On  the  attainder  of  Henry  Percy,  earl  of  Northumber* 
land«  1  Edw^  IV.  this  manor,  with  other  parts  of  his  estate,  was  presented  to 
George  duke  of  Clarence,  the  king's  brother.  In  1663,  Mr.  Ralph  Ssdkeld  and  Mr. 
William  Webb  held  lands  b«*e.  It  now  belongs  to  three  different  proprietors,  viz. 
the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  the  earl  of  Lesibume,  and  Mr.  Taylor,  late  of  St.  He>- 
leu's,  Auddand. 

Fleetham  stands  two  miles  west  from  Beadnel,  and  consists  of  three  farmholds, 
two  eom-nuUs^  and  twelve  cottages.     It  belongs  to  the  trustees  of  Bambrough  Castle, 

Nbwham,  a  village  about  four  miles  and  a  half  south-by-west  from  Bambrough, 
contains  two  farmholds,  a  respectable  public  house,  and  twenty-five  other  dwelling 
houses,  with  a  portion  of  land  attached  to  each.  Newham  New  Htmses^  and  Newhum 
Bams^  two  farms  about  a  mile  north  from  the  viUage ;  Hen  HiU,  about  the  same* 
distance  west ;  and  New^ieadt,  another  farm  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  south-west,  all 
belong  to  the  Duke  of  Northumberland.  Ratchwood  is  the  property  of  Thomas 
Forster,  Esq.  of  Adderstone. 

TuGALL  lies  near  Tugall  Burn,  on  the  southern  extremity  of  this  large  parish. 
The  village  contains  one  raimhold,  and  six  cottages  for  labourers,  who  have  each  a 
plot  of  land,  according  to  the  laudable  custom  of  his  Grace  the  Duke  of  Northumber- 
land. At  a  litde  distance  east  from  the  village  is  TugaU  HaU^  the  seat  of  the  late 
X  Robertson,  Esq.  He  bequeathed  it,  with  an  adjoining  farm,  called  Shank  HaU^ 
to  his  grandchild,  the  son  of  Thomas  Forster,  Esq.  of  Adderstone. 

*  If  a  diarter  exhibited  to  the  heralds  in  1575  be  credited,  Henry  Hardinge  fought  with  William  Soyntloee, 
a  Scotchman,  before  king  Robert  Bruce  at  Perth,  for  his  coat  of  arms,  vanquished  his  opponent,  and  estiu 
blished,  by  right  of  conquest,  his  indisputable  title  to  a  shield  of  gules  with  three  golden  greyhounds.  This 
transacti^on  is  stated  to  have  taken  place  in  131S.  In  1874,  the  Hardings  appear  seated  at  Besdnel  in  North* 
umberland,  48  Edward  III.  Alan  de  Strother  appoints  Adam  Harding  of  Beadnel  his  attorney,  to  deliver 
possession  to  Samson  Harding  of  his  free  tenement  at  Beadnel.  l6  June,  S  Henry  VII.  149^^  Richard 
Harding,  of  Holyngside,  Esq.  granted  an  annuity  of  40j.  ^d,  to  William  Baxter,  out  of  his  lands  ill  Beadnel 
and  Boroden,  and  out  of  the  tenement  in  Burton-chare,  belonging  to  St.  Eloj^s  chantry,  in  All  Saints  church, 
in  Newcastle. 

VOL.  I.  5  N 


418  BAMBROUGH  WABD— S.  D. 


SOUTH   DIVISION. 


EMBLETON  PARISH 


Is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Bambrough  parish,  on  the  west  by  Ellingham,  and  on 
the  south  by  Howick  and  Lionghoughton.  It  is  about  five  miles  in  length  and  three 
and  a  half  in  breadth.  It  contains  ten  townships,  including  two  chapelries,  S67 
houses,  and  1804  inhabitants.  The  land  is  well  cultivated,  and  very  productive. 
Embleton-burn  intersects  the  parish.  The  following  is  the  report  of  the  Kev.  James 
Boulter,  vicar,  and  the  Rev.  S.  Turner,  sub-curate,  on  the  present  state  of  education 
in  the  parish : — ^^  A  school  at  Embleton,  to  which  Mr.  Edwards  bequeathed  a  school- 
house,  garden,  bam,  and  stable,  with  the  interest  of  £  60,  to  a  schoolmaster,  for  the 
education  of  not  less  than  10,  nor  more  than  14  poor  children. — A  school  at  Emble- 
ton, built  by  the  present  Shafto  Craster,  Esq.  wno  pays  £86  per  annum  to  a  master, 
for  the  instruction  of  25  children ;  and  he  il  provicl^with  al^iue  and  warden,  and 
has  the  privilege  of  takine  other  children.  Mrs.  G^Y  <^  wys  a  woman  ror  teaching 
the  girls  to  work,  which  is  found  of  great  utility.  The  minister  gives  a  master  £5  a 
year,  merely  to  keep  the  children  two  or  three  hours  on  a  Sunday. — ^A  school  at 
Kennington,  containing  about  SO  children,  and  supported  by  quarter-pence. — ^By  the 
will  of  the  late  Mr.  Thomas  Wood,  the  possessor  os  his  estate  is  to  pay  £5  per  annum, 
for  the  instruction  of  the  poor  children  at  Fallowden,  and  to  provide  a  school-^room, 
which  is  punctually  comphed  with  by  the  present  owner,  who  gives  further  assistance. 
The  average  number  of  scholars  is  about  S5,  several  of  whom  are  paid  for  by  the 
Honourable  Mrs.  Grey. — The  sum  of  £20  was  left^  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Edwards,  for 
the  education  of  the  poor  at  Rennington,  which  was  lost  through  the  failure  of  a  Mr. 
Andrew  Hunter,  to  whom  it  had  been  lent. — ^A  school  at  Rock,  endowed  by  Charles 
Bosanquet,  Esq.  with  £6  per  annum,  a  house,  and. garden,  who  gives  the  present 
master  annually  the  value  of  a  cow's  grass :  he  also  receives  the  interest  of  £24,  be- 
queathed by  Mr.  Edwards,  and  instructs  altogether  about  20  diildren,  who  pay  a 
quarterage." 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Edwards,  by  will,  in  1713»  bequeatiied  £40  to  the  poor,  with  which 
the  minister  and  churchwardens  built  a  gaUery  in  the  church.  Six  of  the  seats  were 
let,  and  the  others  were  occupied  by  the  singers.  Mr.  John  Scott,  of  Rennington, 
left  by  will  £10  to  the  poor. 

Embleton  is  situate  above  seven  miles  north-north-east  from  Alnwick.  It  is  an 
irregular-built  village,  and  lies  chiefly  under  the  ridge  of  a  hill,  which  intercepts  the 
prospect  of  the  sea.  Embleton  is  a  vicarage,  valued  in  the  king's  books  at  £11,  3^. 
4rf. ;  patron,  Merton  College,  Oxford.  Tne  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  the  Holy 
Trinity,  is  situate  on  the  west  side  of  the  village.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and 
has  a  good  tower,  with  a  small  vestry,  and  a  gauery  at  the  west  end.  The  vicarage- 
house  and  garden  join  on  to  the  south  side  of  the  church-yard,  and,  being  on  a  ime 
gradual  slope,  have  a  pleasant  appearance. 


*      • 


« 
A   * 


EMBLETON  PARISH.  419 

John  le  Vicount,  the  son  of  Odoard,  hdd  the  barony  of  Embleton,  with  other 
estates  appendant,  by  the  service  of  three  knights'  fees,  of  which  his  ancestors  had 
beeti  enfeoffed  by  long  Henry  I.  He  died  29  Henry  III,  and  left  Ramet,  the  wife 
of  Everard  Tyes,  his  daughter  and  heir,  who,  surviving  him,  married  again  to  Here- 
ward  de  Marisco.  They  afterwards  sold  it  to  Simon  de  Montford,  earl  of  Leicester ; 
but  he  soon  forfeited  it,  by  rebelling  against  that  king,  who  conferred  it  upon  his 
younger  son  Edmund,  whom  he  had  created  earl  of  Lancaster.  In  his  family  it  con- 
tinued till  his  grandson,  Henry,  dying  without  male  issue,  his  whole  estate  was 
divided  between  his  two  daughters,  Maud  and  Blanche.  The  latter  married  John  of 
Gaunt,  earl  of  Richmond,  and  afterwards  duke  of  Lancaster,  and  had  this  barony  and 
other  estates  for  her  dowry.  Heniy  of  Bolingbroke  (afterwards  Henry  IV.)  was  het 
son  and  heir,  by  which  means  Embleton  becmne  sc  royal  feoflP!  This  manor  now  be^ 
longs  to  the  Right  Hon.  the  earl  of  Tankerville :  but  Heniy  Taylor,  Esq.  of  Chris- 
ton  Bahk»  has  some  property  here ;  and  the  heirs  of  the  late  Mr.  Woodhouse  are 
proprietors  of  several  houses. 

DuNSTANBKOUGH  Castle. — ^The  ruins  of  this  strong  and  noble  building  stand  on 
sm  eminence  above  the  sea,  two  miles  east-south-east  from  EmUeton,  and  six  miles 
north-east  from  Alnwick.  Nothing  now  remains  but  the  cmt-works  on  the  west  and 
south  sides,  which,  with  stupendous  basalt  cliffa  to  the  sea»  enclose  a  plain  nearly 
square,  consisting  of  about  nine  acres,  and  which  is  said  in  one  year  to  have  produced 
240  Winchester  bushels  of  com,  besides  severed  loads  of  hay.  The  keep  and  interior 
works  (says  Hutchinson),  if  there  ever  were  any,  are  totally  gone,  the  plough-share 
having  passed  within. the  walls.  The  whinstone  rocks  to  the  north  are  perpendicular, 
of  a  columniary  form,  about  80  feet  in  height,  black  and  horrible ;  the  shore  rugged, 
covered  with  broken  rocks  woven, over  with  sea-weed.  From  the  edge  of  the  sea-, 
cliffs,  on  the  north-west  point,  the  western  waU  runs  along  the  brink  of  an  elevated 
rock ;  a  square  tower  arises  near  the  centre  of  this  wall,  of  a  consideraUe  height,  and 
of  excellent  masonry,  placed  on  a  projecting  point  of  the  diff,  so  as  to  afford  the 
armed  men  within  the  means  of  flanking  the  wall  with  their  missile  weapons ;  on 
each  comer  there  was  an  exploratory  turret.  This  seems  to  be  the  most  modem  part 
of  the  castle,  built  of  the  best  materials,  and  by  the  ablest  workmen.  Where  the 
land  rises,  to  the  summit  of  the  rock  on  the  south-west  point,  the  wall  turns,  and 
makes  a  long  straight  front  to  the  south :  the  ground  before  it  is  level,  and  appears 
to  have  been  assisted  by  art,  to  form  a  more  commodious  parade  for  the  garrison.  In 
this  front  there  is  a  gate-way,  buUt  in  a  very  remarloible  style,  being  we  great  en- 
trance to  the  castle :  it  is  fonned  by  a  circular  arch,  with  a  portico  and  intenor  gate ; 
and  is  defended  by  two  heavy  semicircular  towers,  uniting  with  the  superstructure  of 
the  gate-way :  these  towers,  after  rising  about  20  feet,  and  containing  two  tiers  of 
apartments,  support  turrets  of  a  square  form,  now  so  very  rugged  and  ruinous  as  not 
to  allow  a  conjecture  what  was  their  original  height.  This  wdl  extends  to  the  cliffs 
on  the  sea-banks,  is  guarded  by  two  square  bastions  and  a  small  sally-port,  and  is  ter- 
minated by  a  square  tower  with  a  gate-way.  On  the  brink  of  the  diff  to  the  sea,  on 
this  quarter,  appear  the  remains  of  a  very  strong  wall ;  indeed  it  is  probable  the  whole 
area  was  originally  so  enclosed.     The  heavy  seas  which  break  upon  the  rocks  of  the 


430  BAMBROUGH  WARD.— S.  D. 

north-west  point  have  torn  them  much ;  and  at  appears  as  if  the  area  had  been  origin* 
ally  of  greater  extent  than  at  present,  many  separate  columns  of  rock  standing  near 
the  clifis,  which,  some  ages  ago,  may  have  hem  joined  to  the  main  land.  At  the 
south  point  of  the  area  is  the  weU.  Near  to  the  eastern  tower  are  the  remains  of  a 
chapel.  Immediately  below  this  tower  is  a  guUy  or  passage,  of  perpendicular  sides, 
formed  in  the  rocks,  about  60  yards  in  length,  and  .40  feet  deep,  where  the  sea  makes 
a  dreadful  inset,  breaking  into  foam  with  a  tremendous  noise :  the  spray  occasioned 
thereby  is  driven  within  the  castle  walls.  This  place  is  called  by  the  country  people 
the  Bumble  Chum.  The  gulph,  viewed  from  the  walls  of  the  tower,  has  a  very  grand 
and  awful  appearance :  you  look  immediately  down  upon  the  abyss,  where,  as  the 
tide  rushes  up,  the  waters  are  lifted  many  feet  above  the  common  level,  ri^ng  toMraids 
the  walls  of  the  tower,  as  if  they  would  surmount  the  diffs  and  deluge  the  plain* 
The  breaking  of  the  waves  in  foam  over  the  extreme  -point  of  the  rocks,  the  heavy 
spray,  the  noise  of  the  disturbed  waters,  and  the  groan  which  echo  returns  through 
tne  aesolated  towers,  are  noble,  thou^  tremendous.* 

Though  this  castle  was  probably  alBritish  strength,  and  afterwards  a  Koman  castel- 
lum,  yet  it  is  nqt  mentioned  until  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century,  when  it  was 
founded,  or  rather  rebuilt,  by  Thomas  earl  of  Lancaster,  general  of  the  confederate 
army  which  opposed  Edward  III.  He  was  also  owner  or  Pomfret  Castle,  whare, 
after  being  taken  by  the  king's  troops  at  Burrowbridge,  he  was  imprisoned,  and  soon 
after  decmlated  as  a  traitor ;  thougn  afterwards  he  was  canonized,  and  the  place  of 
his  martyrdom  took  the  name  of  St.  Thomas's  Hill.  He  was  possessed  of  immense 
estates,  and  was  the  grandson  of  king  Henry  III.  and  the  most  powerful  and  opulent 
subject  in  Europe,  holding  at  once  the  earldoms  of  Lancaster,  Lincoln,  Salisbury, 
Leicester,  and  Derby.  The  king  sat  personally  on  his  trial,  a  remarkable  circum- 
stance. He  was  executed  March  25,  13S2,  and  buried  on  the  south  side  of  the  high 
altar  in  the  priory  church  there.  Such  veneration  was  paid  to  his  tomb  as  the  enthu- 
siasts wastea  on  that  of  Becket. 

In  the  succeeding  reign,  Henry,  the  brother  of  the  martyr,  obtained  from  pariia- 
xnent  a  reversion  of  the  attainder,  and  restitution  of  the  family  honours  and  estates. 
He  held  great  offices  in  government,  was  one  of  the  guardians  of  king  Edward  III. 
by  whom  he  was  created  Duke  of  Lancaster,  and,  on  that  investiture,  had  license  to 
have  his  chancery  within  the  duchy,  and  issue  process  there.  We  do  not  hear  of  this 
fortress  bring  made  memorable  by  any  singular  conflict,  till  the  unfortunate  condu- 
fldon  of  the  affairs  of  king  Henry  VL  and  the  total  destruction  of  the  Rose  of  Lan- 
caster. Queen  Margaret,  perceiving  that  the  French  succours  were  too  inconsiderable 
to  induce  the  Northumbrians  to  rise  in  her  favour,  made  another  voyage,  and  having 
borrowed  a  sum  of  money,  and  gained  a  reinforcement  of  2000  men,  in  October,  1462, 
she  landed  near  Bambrough.  Her  return  with  those  aids  did  not  yet  induce  tiie 
people  of  Northumberland  to  take  up  arms.  Through  the  treachery  of  Sir  Balph 
Grey,  the  castle  of  Alnwick  was  surrendered  to  her.  Margaret,  hearing  that  king 
Edward  was  advancing  with  a  numerous  army,  found  it  necessary  again  to  seek  re» 

^  Mr.  James  Service,  of  Chatton,  in  1S20,  published  a  poem  enUtledi  "  The  Wandering  Knight  of  Dun* 
•tanbreugh  Castle.'* 


EMBLETON  PAIUSH.  421 

f«ge  ki  So^Jaad:  to  this  «nd  die  cmhariL^d;  tot  a  viefleBt  iBfa^xm  Wfiiqg,  ake  ww  in 
inHKUfient  peril,  tfnd  at  lei^tfa  gamoi  the  port  of  Berwicd^.*  Breze,  lier  ^necal,  witb 
about  500  <^  his  troops^  were  wipwi^eckea  on  Holy  Idand^  ivfcere  tbejr  weie  4^  siaia 
or  taken  prisoners,  except  BMee  Jumadtf',  who  eeeeapeA  to  tibe  queen  in  a  £afaii|g-]boat 
Edward,  cm  fak  amval  in  Ncorthuiinberl^tid,  finding  no  enemy  in  the  field,  kid  eiege 
to  the  eairiles  of  Alnwick,  Bamhioi^,  and  Dundtanhroagh ;  the  latter  of  whi<m, 
a^Bter  holding  out  a  considerable  time,  was  at  len^  taken  by  fitorm,  mkd  the  garrison 
ande  prismiers :  after  which  they  <dasaiaiitiled  thi«  fwtresg^  and  aa  much  as  possible 
destroyed  the  foitificationB ;  since  which  tisae  it  has  lain  in  ruins.  It  appears,  by  tbe 
escheats  of  queen  Elizaibeth,  to  be  in  the  possessicffi  <^  the  crown  m  that  rei^.  %JBjg 
James  I.  granted  it  to  the  <^ys  of  Wark^  and  it  is  now  in  the  possessicm  of  the 
eari  of  TankerviUe. 

DuNSTAN. — ^This  small  village,  which  lies  south  from  the  castle,  is  celebrated  as 
the  birthplace  of  Hmns  SaJtus^  the  faniMaiiis  o^^^etser  e£  Aquinas.  Some  writers  say 
he  Was  a  native  of  Dunse  ia  Scotland,  but  in  0ne  K^f  his  MS.  wwks  are  these  words  >*-«- 
"^  £x|dkat  lectura  XheterU  SmbtUee  in  Univertitote  Oxoniekisi  super  quartum  librum 
aententiaruna,  4»lioet,  Demiiai  Johannes  Duns,  Aali  in  quadam  VUlma  pfoochise  de 
Emykon,  yoesfta  Dun^taii,  in  Ccnnitatu  Nontlnimbrise,  pertifieate  domici  Schdanuu 
de  Merton  Hall  in  Oxonia,  ^et  quondam  sooii  dietss  domus."  This  place  belongs  to 
Maix)n  college  to  this  day  4  It  is  mostly  ^occupied  by  the  servants  of  Shafto  Crarter, 
Esq.  who  mamtains  a  day-school  here  for  the  education  of  their  children. 

CscAiStreR  Se A  Houses  is  «a  small  vill^go,  on  an  inlet  of  the  sea,  about  ^  moles 
nwth-^daA  fkmi  Ablwidk,  inhabitcKl  ohie%  Aty  (fiAetanen.     GrMter  MaU^  wihieh  is 

'^  *Kkkg  Henry,  the  'duke  ef  Excestre^  and  ihe  duke  of  Somersete^  and  other  lordes  thi&t  fled,  had  kepte 
Alaewicke,  Banborow,  "DunlStanburgh,  Wai^kworth,  and  mannid  and  intailid  diem.  Syr  Peers  de  Brasilo, 
ihe  ifreilt  wanioor  df  Nortnandy,  cam  to  lielp  tiueen  Margaret  -with  Frtoch  men,  and  XX.  'M.  Scottes,  and  to 
ftifndve  kh^  EdwarHes  men 'from  Alnewik  trige,  «ndthk  residew  df  other  castelles  th«r.  <By  this  meane  bcTdi 
iSdwiUrdes  hieti  were'idbrde  df  ihe  'Sctfttes,  as  recoilingfrottithe-fiege;  and  the  Scottes  a^nrd  of  Edwards 
men,  lest  they  had  recoyled  to  bring  them  to  &  trap.  And  Henrys  tkien  issuyng  owtedf  to  mudi  bdclnd^, 
gave  Bdlirardes  m^n 'OpeKohilife  to'entlfirinto  the  castel.-^Le/.  Col.  vol.  t.  j».-409. 

•t  The  celebrated  John  Duns  aourished  about  the  close -of  the  ISth  and  commencement  of  the  14th  centu- 
ries. In  his  youth  he  was  aidmitted  iiito  the  priory  of  JFranciscaM,  or  Orey  Friars,  at  'Newcastle,  and  setit 
tiy  them  to  complete  his  educi(ti6n  at  "Merton  College,  Oxford,  wheie  he  became  a  fellow,  .and  dlHinguished 
himself  by  his  proficiency  in  scholastic  theology,  dvil  and  canon  law,  logic^  metaphysics,  mathematics,  and 
M&tronomy.  About  the  year  TSOl,  he  occupied  the  chair  of  theology  in  this  miiversity,  and  his  fione  drew  a 
gfetfl  Ymmbfer  of  schokrs  to  attend  upon  his  lectures.  In  tS04>,  he  was  appointed  profenor  and  regent  in  the 
llni versify  of  t^ris,  where,  firom  his  singular  subtflty  in  disputation,  he  was  denominated  ''the  most  subtile 
^doctisr."  Diflering  iVom  lliomas  Aquinas,  '^  the  angelical  doct<»r,"  'he  formed  a  disthiet  sect,  and  hence  pro* 
'^eedtfrd  the  two  denominations  of  -ThonUsii  and  So&Hiis.  Me  was  a  most  sealous  advocite  Tor  tihte  immaeukito 
conception  of  the  Vii^giu  Mary.  In  1808,  he  was  deputed  :by  the  fraternity  of  Minors  to  teadi  theology  it 
Cologne,  Where  he  Was  received  widi  great  pomp  and  san^ine  expeetationa ;  but  liis  suSden  death  disap. 
jKiiifted  ike  views  and  hopes  of  his  admirers.  A  complete  eolleetioii  of^his  woAs,  with  the  life  df  die  ^atbolr, 
wai  published  by  Li|<Sas  Waddingus,  at'I^^ons,  in  llSag/ki  lb  ^AtamtsMbtio, 

VOL.  I,  5  0 


42S  BAMBROUGH  WARD.— S.  D. 

built  of  basalt,  stands  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  west  fix>m  the  village,  in  a  deep 
grove  of  forest  trees,  and  has  fine  sea-views  through  the  chasms  of  a  bold  chain  of  broken 
rocks  that  run  between  it  and  the  shore.  The  grounds  about  it  are  kept  exceedingly  neat. 
William  de  Crauoestr*  held  Craucestr*  in  1272,  of  the  barony  of  John  le  Vioount, 
bjT  the  service  of  half  a  knight's  fee.  It  was  possessed  by  his  descendant,  Sir  Edward 
Craster,  knt.  26  king  £dward  III. ;  by  Richard  de  Craster,  IS  king  Henry  IV.  who 
also  had  the  lordship  of  Dilston,  near  Hexham ;  by  John  de  Craster,  12  kin^  Henry 
VI. ;  by  Edmund  de  Craster,  baQiff  of  Bambrough  Castle,  before  and  after  tne  battk 
of  Hexham-field,  to  whom,  and  to  Richard  Craster,  king  Edward  IV.  wanted  lands 
for  their  faithful  services  to  him ;  by  Edmund  de  Craster,  10  queen  Elizabeth ;  by 
John  Craster,  Esq.  an  eminent  counsellor  at  law ;  by  George  Craster,  Esq. ;  by  Da- 
niel  Craster,  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  19  George  III.  1779 ;  and  now  by  Shaf-^ 
toe  Craster,  who  filled  the  same  honourable  office  the  43d  of  the  same  reign,  1803.   • 

Rennington. — This  village,  which  is  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Northumber- 
land, lies  in  a  low  and  sheltered  situation,  near  four  miles  north-east  by  east  from 
Alnwick.  It  has  recently  been  much  enlaiged  and  improved  by  the  erection  of 
several  beautiful  and  convenient  cottages,  and  a  public  house^  to  each  of  which  4i 
plot  of  ground  is  annexed.  The  chapel  is  an  old  building,  dedicated  to  All  Saints, 
and  belongs  to  the  vicarage  of  Embleton ;  patron,  Merton  College,  Oxford.  Stam- 
ford, a  small  village,  stands  about  one  mile  north-east  from  Rennington. 

Rock  is  pleasantly  situate  about  one  mile  south-west  from  Embleton,  and  near  five 
miles  nortii-north-west  from  Alnwick.  It  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  and  commands 
a  fine  prospect.  It  has  a  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Philip  and  St.  James,  which  belongs 
to  the  vicarage  of  Embleton.  The  soil  at  this  place  is  uncommonly  rich  and  fertile, 
and  the  scenery  grand  and  romantic.  The  remains  of  the  old  mansion-house  being 
covered  with  ivy,  has  a  most  impressive  and  venerable  aspect,  which  is  greatly  height- 
ened by  an  adjoining  rookery ;  but  it  has  been  much  enlarged  and  improved  by  its 
present  proprietor.  A  large  wing  in  a  circular  form  has  been  erected  on  its  south 
side,  and  a  servants'  hall  and  other  offices  on  the  north  side. 

Block  was  one  of  the  manors  of  the  barony  of  Alnwick,  of  which  it  was  held  by 
William  de  Rock,  1  king  Edward  I.  It  was  held  by  Robert  Lawson,  Esq.  hi^n 
sheriff  of  Northumberland,  3  queen  Elizabeth,  and  a  representative  for  it  in  parha^ 
ment  the  5th  year  of  that  reign,  and  who  had  also  the  estate  of  Fallowdon,  as  was 
found  by  an  inquisition  taken  after  his  death,  in  the  10th  of  the  same  reign.  Rock 
was  afterwards  possessed  by  John  Salkeld,  Esq.  and  next  by  John  Proctor,  Esq.  who 
sold  it  to  the  right  hon.  the  earl  of  Jersey.  The  latter  disposed  of  it  to  the  late  Peter 
Holford,  Esq.  of  London,  whose  son,  Charles  Holford,  Esq.  transferred  the  estate  to 
Cha,rles  Bosanquet,  'Esq.  who  married  his  sister,  Charlotte  Ann  Holford,  and  who 
now  resides  here.  Rock  was  recently  farmed  by  the  late  Messrs.  Taylors,  who  were 
among  the  most  successful,  opulent,  and  skilful  graziers  in  the  county. 

ChrisUm  Bank  lies  about  one  mile  and  a  half  north  from  Rock.  It  is  the  property 
of  John  Taylor,  Esq.  of  Rothbury,  at  whose  decease  it  falls  to  the  present  occupier, 
Henry  Taylor,  Esq.  originally  called  Aynsley ;  but  who  acquired  the  name,  and  the 


ELLINGHAM  PARISH-  42S 

greatest  part  of  the  immense  jMioperty  of  the  Taylors^  above  mentionecU  by  the  will 
of  their  late  sister.  Miss  Taylor.     .  ' 

Fallowbon  stands  about  one  mile  north  by  west  from  Embleton.  Towards  the 
end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  it  was  in  the  possession  of  Samuel  Salkeld,  Esq.  who 
was  famed  in  the  north  for  the  improvements  he  effected  in  horticulture.  It  was 
afterwards  the  property  of  Thomas  Wood,  Esq.  who  died  July  19,  1764.  His  only 
daughter  and  heir,  Hannah,  married  Sir  Henry  Grey,  of  Howick,  bart  grandfather 
of  the  late  earl  Grey,  who  resided  here.  After  his  decease,  it  was  possessed  by  the 
countess  dowager  Grey.  It  is  now  the  property  and  residence  of  the  honourable 
lieutenant-general  Grey,  brother  of  the  present  earl  Grey, 

Brtjnton,  including  Ijow  JBrunton,  contains  twelve  dwelling  houses.  It  is  the 
property  of  William  Surrell,  Esq.  of  Broom  Park,  and  stands  about  a  mile  north 
from  Fallowdon. 

Newton  by  the  Sea  is  a  small  village,  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen,  situate  on 
the  coast,  one  mile  north  from  Embleton,  and  nine  miles  north-east  by  north  from 
Alnwick.  The  proprietors  are,  Edward  Henderson,  J.  G.  Forster  of  Newton  Hall, 
and  Thomas  Forster  of  Adderstcme,  Esqrs.  Mr.  Henderson  has  a  coal-work  here, 
which  he  commenced  about  five  years  ago.  A  great  many  cockle-shells  were  found 
while  working  the  pit,  upwards  of  eighteen  Jathoms  deep.  Turbot  and  lobster  fishing 
are  carried  on  briskly  here  during  the  season,  and  herrings  and  white  fish  are  caught 
in  great  abundance. 

ELLINGHAM  PARISH 

Is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Bambnmgh,  on  the  east  by  Embleton,  on  the  south  by 
Coquetdale  Ward,  and  on  the  west  by  Eglingham.  It  is  about  6j^  miles  long,  and  5 
miles  broad,  and  contains  193  houses  and  1037  inhabitants.  There  are  five  schools  in 
this  parish,  attended  by  118  children.  A  convenient  school-house  has  very  lately 
been  built  by  subscription,  on  the  road  side  at  Ellingham.  The  trustees  of  lord 
Crewe's  charitv  ^ve  £50  towards  its  erection,  and  a  grant  for  £5  per  annum  towards 
the  support  of  the  school.  The  school  at  North  Charlton  i9  partly  supported  by  a 
donation  from  the  proprietor  of  the  estate,  of  two  guineas  annually.  The  Reverend 
Charles  Peregal,  vicar  of  the  parish,  also  contributed  the  same  sum  for  its  support, 
but  lately  winidrew  his  subscription,  because  the  master  is  a  Dissenter ! 

Ellingham. — ^This  village  is  8^  miles  north  from  Alnwick,  and  stands  at  a  shoBt 
distance  east  from  the  post-road,  above  Tugall  Bum.  The  church  is  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  village,  and  was  founded  by  Sir  Ralph  de  Guagy,  in  the  time  of 
Hugh  Pudsey,  bishop  of  Durham.  It  is  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  and  is  a  vican^  in 
the  gift  of  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Durham.  It  Was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  a  few 
years  ago.  Ellingham  HaU^  which  has  been  also  much  improved,  stands  in  a  low 
and  sheltered  situation,  by  the  side  of  Tugall  Bum. 


At*  BAM&ltDimH  WARD..^fi.  D. 

Ki  the  teigti  df  tienry  III.  B;0iQ^lk  deCteaff^  kdd  in  esp.  of  the  Icuig  his  barony 
of  ElUnghiaii,  by  the  service  of  three  knights'  tees,  as  all  fails  aiMMtors  had  ddne  from 
the  time  of  Henry  I.  In  1  Edward  I.  1272,  Radulph  de  Gua^  held  ^llingbun, 
O^bCTwick,  boxfoM,  CmmKngtoii^  RetMi  meat  Veweasthe,  Ha^by  teTkeatesnt,  «nd 
Whittey;  but  ^is  ^ste)^>  cSter  two  t»  three  short  ^uoeessidns,  failed,  when  this 
estate  pajfs(ed  to  IBtoget  d^  Ci^oi^  cMtmn  and  heir  to  Rodulph  or  Ralph  de  Gki^gy, 
1^  king  Ed'^rard  I.  In  1  kivig  Richard  IL  it  was  liie  lonldhip  of  Sir  Aim  de  Heton* 
t/bo  in  ^tlt  year  served  linde*r  the  Right  Hoti.  Hairy  Percy,  earl  of  Neiihiimberland» 
2tnii  his  sdh  tl^feMj,  at  the  sliege  of  ]ftetwick»  where  he  had  «  ^artiaihir  service  allotted 
hitti  tfi  M(6  assault,  aMd  M^ired  guest  hMimir  hv  his  valour.  He  died  in  the  latter 
end  of  that  reign,  and  left  three  daughters  avid  "OomireBifes^  tiz.  Elusabeth^  manied.  to 
Sir  John  de  Fenwick;  Margaret,  to  Sir  William  Swinbum;  and  Johanna,  to  Sir 
Robert  Ogle.  Whetih^r  the  estate  waJ^  ^iMerwards  ^dlenated  or  s<dd,  we  oMmot  disco- 
ver ;  ht/t  wheix  the  esA  ^  NoithuMbeilaMl'i^  e^tes  #ere  t^onfecated,  1  k^  Edward 
rV.  this  manor  is  mentioned  among  others  that  were  given  to  the  governor  of  Ireland^ 
the  king's  brother.  EUingham  is  now  the  seat  and  manor  of  Thomas  Haggerston, 
Esq.  bfrother  to  the  presem  Sir  Caimaiby  HaqgjgentMi,  t)f  HiiggerstoB  Castle,  tart  and 
who  inherited  this  estafte  ftotii  Us  vLxKke  iMNiifA. 


Chathill  stam^  at  a  MVRle  ditteaiioe  nortlh^iast  firdm  EUitaghflHi,  and^xmsists^  one 
farmhold  and  four  cottages.    It  Is  Ihe  property  ef  Thomas  Ha^gerstcm,  Esq. 

Prestok,  the  seat  of  EdMftM  CtMter,  Esq.  hil^h  sheriff^  thid  county  in  the  year 
1822,  stands  pleasantly  upon  an  eminence  about  a  mile  south-east  from  Ellingham. 
An  ancient  lofty  tower,  near  the  west  end  of  the  hall,  adds  greatly  to  the  appearatice 
of  this  agreeable  residence. 

'Do!xFORn  is  a  smtdl  v^a^,  dhe  taSie  south  jram  SVMton,  -eonsistk^  of  eight  inha^ 
bited  hoases.  The  hall,  which  is  a  oommodioua  M^-biAitt  maftaon,  is  at  present  un^ 
ihhaWted.    Thift  place  is  the  pvopeity  of  H^nry  Taykfr,  Esq.  df  Chrkton  Bank. 


^So^TR  ^ftAHLl^aN  hfes  west  ctt  the  jsost^roBd^  lOmftt  5^  ^n^ks  north  of  Alnwick, 
ft  'eou])i9ses  two  Ai^olds  and  about  twenty  octfitages  far  laboitfera,  and  is  the  pr«K 
petty  of  the  Duke  <it  Nortjhuimh^kiid. 

VkfKrn  CHAliLfro)^  %  ^  ^nfitetsi  Mnrth  by  west  from  Alnwick,  and  consists  of  a 
commodious  inn,  ^bW6  hmt^lkr^^  tud  fifteen  oottages.  It  is  the  property 'of  John 
Cay,  Esq.  of  Edinburgh,  who  is  also  proprietor  of  Charlton  HaU^  or  Shspperdon 
Sou,  whi<!!h  Is  pltmaM^  sitoate  oh  tSie  east  of  ttie  post^tfoad,  about  G-miles  ncMrth 
tfrotn  AInwicfk. 

East  tthd  W^*r  Dl^fitAimN  sire  t^o  hutalets  on  ikt  western  extremity  of  th^ 
parii/h ;  and  9Hrpi.&t^  h  a  Jpoptfifoils  towndbip,  Mrhich  includes  the  southern  parts. 


HOWICK  PARISH, 


4S5 


HOWICK  PARISH, 

This  very  small  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  sea^  on  the  north  and  west  by 
Embleton,  and  on  the  south  by  Liong  Houghton  parishes.  The  soil  is  rich  and  highly 
cultivated.  The  parish  contains  45  houses,  and  234  inhabitants.  Sir  Henry  Grey 
built  a  school-house  (lately  rebuilt  in  the  village),  and  gave  lands  which  let  for  £  12  per 
annum,  one  pound  of  which  is  fliven  to  the  curate  for  teaching  the  children  their  cate^ 
chism.  Earl  Grey  also  allows  £5  a  year  to  the  master,  who  has  a  house  and  garden, 
and  other  emoluments  arising  from  quarterage  paid  by  the  children  of  more  opulent 
parents,  and  those  who  do  not  belong  to  the  parisn.  It  is  conducted  on  Dr.  Bell's  plan. 
A  Sunday-school  was  also  established  here  m  1818,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Kev. 
Archdeacon  Boyer,  and  the  Right  Hon,  Earl  Grey.  The  &st  Sir  Henry  Grey  like* 
wise  bequeathed  the  interest  of  £100,  to  be  given  annually  on  his  birth-day  to  the 
most  indigent  parishioners. 

The  sea-shore  in  this  parish  is  mostly  composed  of  excellent  freestone.  The  east 
bank  of  the  quarry,  from  which  the  stones  ;used  in  erecting  Howick  mansion  were 
taken,  is  formed  by  the  sea  into  the  most  curious  caverns,  and  through  which,  during 
high  water,  at  makes  a  most  terrific  noise.  Northward  from  this  quarry,  the  rocks 
ascrume  a  most  dreary  and  rugged  aspect,  being  all  composed  of  bamlt  to  PunstWi- 
brough  Castle, 

HowicK. — ^This  littlie  village  stands  6  miles  north-east  from  Alnwiek,  and  about 
onie  mile  from  the  sea.  It  contains  about  fifteen  dwelling-houses,  occupied  prindpaBy 
by  the  families  of  the  servants- belonging  to  the  Hon.  Earl  Grey.  The  church  is  a 
neat  and  elegant  structure,  in  the  Grecian  style,  without  a  tower  and  flat  roofed.  It 
was  built  by  the  first  Sir  Henry  Grey,  baoft.  upon  the  sdte  of  the  old  decayed  church; 
It  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael,  and  is  a  rectory,  valued  in  the  king's  books  at  £36, 13s. 
id.  in  the  gift  of  the  bishop  of  Durham.*  The  rectory-^houae  stands  at  a  little  di^ 
tance  south  from  the  village. 

*  Dr.  Isaac  Baeiere,  prependary  of  Durham,  and  archdeaom  of  this  county,  was  once  rector  of  thk  parish. 
He  was  a  most  singular  diaracter^  and  his  life  was  chequered  with  a  great  variety  of  fbrtunate  and  unfortu- 
nate events.  He  was  bom  in  Jersey,  educated  in  Cambridge,  and,  in  consequence  of  his  great  literary  aV 
tahunents^  6rst  made  diaplain  to  bishop  Morton,  ahd  then  to  his  majesty  king  Charles  I.  about  the  year  1659. 
During  the  dvil  war,  which  soon  after  commenced,  he  remained  firmly  attached  to  the  interests  of  his  royal 
patron,,  and  the  privO^es  of  the  church.  Being  sequestered  and  plundered,  be  escaped  and  fled  to  the  Ling, 
whom  he  aocompanied,  both  at  Oxford  and  Carlisle,  but  was  afVerwards  taken  and  confined  in  Stockton  castle. 
After  sontie  time  he -obtained  his  liberty ;  but  being  still  i^rehensive  for  his  safety,  he  passed  over  into  the 
continent,  where  he  formed  the  resolution  to  propagate  the  doctrines  of  the  (^hurch  of  England  among  the 
Greeks,  Arabians,  Egyptians,  ^c.  in  which  arduous  and  dangerous  pursuit  he  became  so  famous,  that  he  was 
chosen  professor  of  divinity,  and  president  of  the  synod  of  Maresvabarpeli,  in  Transylvania^  where  he  was  in 
favour  with  the  prince  George  RagotzL  After  fifteen  years  of  incessant  labour,  this  distipguished  missionary 
returned  into  England  to  his  family.  King  Charley  IL  being  restored  about  this  time,  rewarded  his  fidelity, 
\}j  granting  him  the  archdeaconry  of  Northumberland.  He  died  October  12,  1676^  and  left  several  books, 
which  are  ample  testimonies  ot  his  piety  and  learning. 

VOL,  I,  5  P 


4M  BAMBaOUGH  WARD.--S.  D. 

Howick  Hall. — This  noble  mansion  is  ddk^htfully  situate  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
south-west  from  the  village.  ^*  The  little  ptfe^*'  or  tower  of  Howick,  mentioned  by 
Leland,  '*  was/'  according  to  Wallis,  **  entered  by  a  flight  of  steps,  and  was  a  fair 
structure,  to  the  end  of  which  the  first  Sir  Henry  Grey  ouilt  a  large  handsome  boose 
and  degnt  offices."  This  pile  was  taken  down  in  1787>  when  the  |«eseut  degant 
structure  was  commeneed.  Payne  and  other  avchiteets  nve  diesigns  £w  it,  but  it  was 
chiefly  executed  uAder  the  direction  of  Mr.  Newton  of  ^wcastte.  A  few  years  ago, 
the  internal  ananflements  were  improved,  and  the  fumture  and  decorati<ms  ahnost 
entk^  renewed,  by  tlie  present  noble  possessor,  who  haa  also  j<»ned  the  wings  to 
the  centre  by  two  additions,  the  fiponts  of  wfaidb  form  the  ares  of  a  ^nadrant  New 
gatek-warys  have'hkewise  been  erected,  the  approadbes  altered,  and  the  lawn  broken  in 
a  better  style.  Howick  Bum,  a  fine  trout-stream,  dJrts  the  lawn,  and  is  crossed  by 
a  neat  stone  bridge,  of  asUar-work.  The  bro<^,  in  following  its  coarse  from  the 
west,  between  grassJawns,  shaded  by  a  plantation,  make^  its  exit  bjr  a  gentle  faU^ 
which  produces  a  pleasant  effect.  A  beautiful  fish-pond,  :Mrhieb  occupies  upwards  of 
fifve  aeres,  was  fbnned  four  years  ago,  about  400  yards  east  from  the  mansu>n4Mm6e. 
It  aboQHda  with  fine  trout  asd  pereh^  and  the  surface  is  enUiFcned  by  tibe  majestic 
motions  of  two  beautiful  swans. 

Howick  was  a  manor  of  the  Mufidbampe  hanany  in  Henry  111."!$  reign,  and  after* 
wards  ingrafted  upon  that  of  Wilfiam  de  Ves^,  of  whom  it  was  h^  by  Adam  Ry- 
baud,  by  service  of  one  knight's  fee.  Huntercombe,  one  of  the  representatiyes^  of  the 
Muschsunpes,  however,  died  seized  of  half  of  it,  either  in  1819  or  1817.  A  mediety 
of  it  was  heid  by  the  iUustrkma  Ismily  cf  the  Greys  of  Chillinghana ;  the  other  part 
belonged  to  a  youngar  branch  of  the  baronial  famihr  of  the  Hercms  of  Ford,  but  after 
some  time  the  Greys  obtained  the  whole  manor.  The  first  of  this  family  mentioned 
in  ancient  reecnrds,  as  bdonging  to  this  manor,  is  Sir  Ralph  Grey,  of  ChilBngham, 
who  was  snooeeded  in  his  possessions  at  Howick  1^  his  fourth  son.  Sir  Edward  Grey, 
by  Isabel,  daughter  of  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  of  Hortcxi,  and  youngs  brother  of  Sir 
Ralph  Grey,  who  was  £rther  of  William,  first  Lord  Grey,  of  Wark.  This  Sir  Ed- 
ward died  1682,  having  married  Catherine,  daughter  of  Roger  Le  Strange,  of  Hun* 
Stanton,  in  Norfolk ;  by  whom  he  had  five  sons  and  two  dau^ters.  Philip  Grey, 
EscL  ef  Howick,  his  eldest  son,  died  in  the  lifetime  of  his  father.  He  was  succeeded 
by  £dward  Grey,  Esq.  his  eldest  son,  who  died  in  165S,  Imving  manried  a  daught^ 
of  Martin  Fenwick,  of  Kenton,  by  whom  he  had  four  sons.  The  ddest  son,  Fhilip 
Grey,  Esq.  dying  without  male  issue,  the  estate  of  Howick  descended  to  the  second 
son,  John  Grey,  of  Acton,  who  had  married  Dorothy,  daughter  of  —  Lide,.  Esq. 
of  Acton  aforesaid,  by  whom  he  had  John  Grg^,  Esq.  of  Howick,  an  only  son.  He 
was  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  14  king  Wilfiam  IH.  1701.  He  was  succeeded 
by  his  eldest  son,  Sir  Hemy  Grey,  of  Howick,  bart.  who  was  high  sheriff  of  the 
county  in  1736,  and  createa  a  baronet  January  11,  1746.  He  married  Hannah, 
daughter  of  Thomas  Wood,  of  Fallowdon,  by  whom  he  had  issue  five  sons  and  four 
dau|^ters,  viz.  1.  Sir  Henry  Grey,  of  Howick,  second  baronet,  who  was  baptized 
November  15, 1722,  was  elected  M.  P.  for  the  county  of  Northumberland,  1754,  and 
again  1762 ;  died  unmarried  at  his  house  in  Great  Ormohd-street,  30th  March,  1808, 
set.  86.    2.  John  Grey,  bom  at  Howick,  died  in  London,  unmarried.    9.  Thomas 


HOWICK  PARISH,  427 

Grey,  lK»n  afc  Howiek^  buptiz^  25th  June,  17S8,  killed  in  a  dael  with  lord  Pomfref^ 
and  buried  at  South  Aualey  chapdL  A,  Chm'IeB  (of  whom  preseaitil^).  5*  Ralph, 
baptized  January  8, 1737-8»  died  ia  1787,  uniaarried,  and  was  Duried  u>  South  Aud-^* 
W  dbapd.  The  daughters  were,  Hannah  and  Jsme»  who  both  died  uxnnarried} 
Margaret,  baptized  Decesaber  8, 17S6,  wtts  firat  wiiSe  of  Sir  Grey  Cooper ;  and  £lxaa»t 
beth,  marriea  Sir  James  Peanyniaii»  haxt  aad  died  about  1803. 
.  Sir  Charles^  first  Earl  Gre^  fourth  so«,  was  bom  at  Howick  ki  October,  1789ft 
brought  up  in  the  army,  and  d^vatedj  to  tiiepeevage  hy  patent,  dated  May  33, 1801 ; 
and  was  fnrthar  advaiiced  to  be  Viscount  Howick  and  Earl  Gj^y,  Apnt  11,  1806* 
He  died  November  14,  1807,  ag^  78.*    Uk  lordship  married,  in  1762,  Ehaabetih» 


*  This  warrior^  being  destined  for  the  anny,  after  receiving  the  osdal  prefatory  education,  served  in 
Kingsley's  regiment  on  the  continent^  when  not  more  than  nineteen  years  of  age.  He  was  aid-d^-camp 
to  prince  Ferdinand  at  the  battle  of  Minden*  at  which  he  was  wounded.  In  1755^  he  received  per- 
mission to  raise  an  independent  company;  and  in  17^  he  was  promoted  to  Ae  rank  cf  lieutenant- 
colonel.  At  the  capture  of  the  important  fortress  of  Belleisle,  he  commanded  the  QBfh  regiment,  which 
being  disbanded  on  the  return  of  peaos^,  he  retired  on  half  pay:  but  his  merits  were  not  overlooked, 
Ibr  he  soon  after  obtained  t^e  rank  of  ooknel  in  theanny,  which  was  sueeeeded*  by  the  appomtBient  of  aid- 
de-camp  to  the  king.  When  the  sword  was  drawn  to  ooeNe  the  Amerioans^  coleiiei  Grey  repauedl  to  Beaten, 
where  general  Howe  appointed  him  to  a  separate  command,  with  the  local  rank  ef  mgor-i^iiMral.  AfUv  Ae 
battle  of  Brandy  wine,  he  was  detached  to  dislodge  geaaral  Wayne  fn»»  a.  naigkboiifkig  wood.  To  pftvent 
alsnn,  he  ordered  all  the  flints  to  be  removed,  and;  adnneing  lafHilgr  duaiag  Ae  aight,  fioNtd  the  pvoq»ets 
without  noia^  so  tibat  those  wk^  repaired  to  the  akoHpest  paraded  io  the  light  of  their  own  &pa,  anddra 
unsparing  bayonet  put  a  large  portion  of  them  to  death  on  the  spot.  In  the  attack  on  the  British  post  at 
German-townj  general  Grey^  at  the  head  of  three  battalions^  not  only  checked  the  success  of  the  Anurieans, 
but  defeated  them  with  great  loss.  In  the  campaign  of  17794  he  was  employed  in  a  disag^eable  service. 
The  destruction  of  shippings  the  burning  of  roag^ines,  wharfe,  stores^  warehouses,  and  vessels  on  the  stocks, 
at  Bedford^  as  well  as  Martha's  Vineyard^  attested  the  destruction  he  achieved  during  this  expedition.  On 
his  return,  he  surprised  a  regiment  of  li^^t  dragocms,  a}l  of  whom  were  killed,  except  one  troop,  which  wera 
saved  by  the  humani^  of  a  particular  pfficer.  Wbei^  Ejogland  gave  up  the  hopeless  contest,  general  Gcejp 
retired  to  Fallowdon,  where  he  attended  to  the  educatiou  of  his  children,,  aqd  enjoyed  the  amusements  of  a 
country  life.  In  the  mean  time^  a  nobleman  procured  him  a.  seat  in  tha  Hquse  of  Commons.  la  1 79%  he  had 
attained  the  rank  of  lieutenant-general;  and  in  the  foUowipg  year  he  received. a  regiment  of  djragOQns.  u^ 
the  Order  of  the  Bath.  War  b^g  declared  agiun«t  France,  Sir  Charles  Grey,  towards  the  latter  ^d  of 
17989  seized  Newport  in  maritime  Flanders;  and  then,  being  invested  with  the  command  of  the  foicea  des- 
tined for  an  attack  on  the  French  West  Indies,  he  embarked  on  board  the  fleet  commanded  by  Sir  John 
Jervia  (the  late  Earl  St  Vinc^^nt).  Martinico,  Guadeloupe,  St.  Lucii^  and  the  Saipts,  were  conquered  with 
great  activity  and  gallantry.  Hie  objects  of  the  expedition  being  thus  ^ttained^  the  victorious  general  proi- 
pared  to  return;  but  an  unexpected  event  retarded  his  departure.  Victor  Hughes^  with  a  feeble  armament 
and  only  1500  troops,  arrived  from  France,  landed  in  Guadaloupe»  armed  the  slaves  whom  he  declared  free» 
aad,  inspirii^  his  army  with  a  portion  of  his  own  eneigy  and  enthusiasm,  soon  became  formidable  to  the 
sickly  inTaders.  An  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  to  arrest  the  progress  of  this  singular  man,  who  suo« 
ceeded  in  lessening  the  advaatages  expected  from  this  expenrive  expedition.  Sir  Charles,  on  his  return^  re- 
ceived the  government  of  Guernsey,  and  the  colonelcy  of  the  third,  or  king's  own  regiment  of  dragoons. 
Both  houaes  of  parliament  also  voted  him  their  thanks  for  his  exploits  in  the  West  Indies,  and  the  corporatioa 
of  Lond<m  -presented  the  freedom  of  the  dty  to  him  in  a  gold  box.  He  afterwards  was  appointed  to  com- 
mand  the  southern  district. 


428  BAMBROUGH  WARD.-^.  D. 

daughter  of  George  Grey,  Esq.  of  Southwick,  by  whom  he  had,  1.  Heiiry,  bom  in 
1768,  died  an  infant.  2.  Charles,  the  present  earl.  8.  Henry  George,  bom  October 
25,  1766 ;  a  major-general  in  the  army,  lieutenant-governor  and  commands  of  the 
forces  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  colonel  of  me  18th  regiment  dragocms;  an 
active  and  skilful  officer,  much  beloved  by  the  army,  and  highly  esteemed  while  oom- 
mandinff  in  the  northern  district.  4.  George,  bom  October  10,  1767,  captain  of  the 
Royal  Charlotte  yacht,  in  the  royal  navy,  resident  commissioner  at  Portsmouth  dock- 
yard ;  married,  July  1795,  Mary,  sister  to  Samuel  Whitbread,  Esq.  by  whom  he  has 
issue.  5.  Thomas,  bom  1770 ;  died  1797,  unmarried.  6.  William,  bom  October  20, 
1777,  a  lieutenant-colonel  in  th^  army,  Ueutenant-colopel  of  the  sixth  veteran  battalion, 
and  Ueutenant-govemor  of  Chester,  married,  1805,  Maria,  daughter  of  the  late  lieute- 
nant-general William  Shirreff,  and  has  issue,  7.  Edward,  horn  March  25,  1782,  in 
holy  orders,  rector  of  Whickham,  Durham,  married,  ]M[arch  21, 1809,  Miss  C.  Croftes, 
daughter  of  J.  Groftes,  Escj.  of  Greenham,  Berks,  who  died  1822.  Lady  Elizabeth, 
bom  April  7,  1765 ;  married,  Januarv  18,  1789,  the  Jate  Samuel  Whitbread,  Esq. 
M*  P.  for  Bedford,  aud  has  issue,  Elizabeth,  bom  Decemba:  21,  1791;  William, 
born  January  4, 1795 ;  Samuel  Charles,  bprn  Febru^oy  16, 1796 ;  and  Emma  Laura, 
bom  January  19t  1798.  Lady  Haxmah,  bom  April  34,  1785 ;  married,  August  24, 
iaQ7»  captain  !3ettesworth,  of  the  Tartar  frigate,  who  was  killed  in  action  May  25, 
1808.    She  remarried  the  Rev.  Mr.  Ellice. 

Charles^  second  but  eldest  surviving  son,  succeeded  as  second  Earl  Grey.*    He  was 
bom  March  18, 1764,  and  married,  llfovcfiuber  18, 1794,  Mary  Elizabethi  daughter  of 

.  *  Earl  Grey,  whose  talents  and  patriotism  reflect  honour  upop  his  native  county^  was  educated  at  Cam- 
bridge. On  the  vacancy  occasioned  by  the  accession  to  the  peerage  of  the  present  earl  of  Beverley^  in  1786, 
he  was  returned  a  member  fo^  Northumberland.  Previous  to  his  removal  to  th^  upper  house,  he  sat  in  four 
successive  parliaments,  one  with  Sir  William  Middleton,  and  three  with  colonel  Beaumont  as  a  colleague. 
Immediately  on  entering  the  House  of  Commons^  he  rose  into  distinction  by  his  talents  and  oratory ;  and, 
having  ranged  hin^self  on  th^  side  of  the  opposition  to  Mr.  Pitt,  he  became  one  of  the  most  powerful  sup- 
porters of  his  party,  of  which  he  continued  among  the  principal  leaders  during  the  Ivhole  twenty-one  years 
that  he  sat  in  ^t  house.  In  1 791,  Mr.  Grey,  commis^niting  the  melancholy  situation  of  Insolvent  debtors,  tcx)k 
an  active  part  i^  their  behalf;  a  business  which  '^  shed  a  lustre  over  the  character  and  hmnanityof  the  nation." 
In  the  following  year,  he  advocated,  with  distinguished  spirit  and  ability,  the  pppular  cause  of  Reform,  and  pre- 
sented the  famous  petition  of  the  ''Friends  of  the  People,"  so  often  quoted.  Th^  dangers  apprehended  fhim 
tills  subject,  the  diffusion  of  republican  principles  on  th^  continent,  and  the  hopes  of  p6wer,  place,  and  emolu- 
ment, combined  at  this  time  to  thin  the  ranks  of  the  opposition ;  but  Mr.  Grey  always  formed  one  of  the 
little  phalani:  who  remained  flrru  and  resolved  in  resisting  measures  which 'they  conceived  were  pregnant 
with  the  most  disastrous,  consequences.  In  numerous  instances  he  displayed  his  superior  knowledge  and 
eloquence,  and,  as  one  of  the  managers  of  the  impeachment  against  Mr.  Hastings,  added  greatly  to  his  former 
reputation.  The  associates  of  Mr.  Pitt  felt  his  death  the  signal  of  tiie  termination  of  the^h*  political  power. 
The  necessary  arrangements  were  thereibre  made  by  lord  Grenville,  whose  party  joiiied  with  tiie  whigs,  in 
order  to  form  a  grand  combination  of  talent^.  Mr.  Grey  was  appointed  first  lord  of  the  admiralty,  which,  on 
the  death  of  his  colleague,  Mr.  Fox,  he  exchanged  for  the  office  of  secretary  of  state  for  the  foreign  department, 
and  was  considered  as  the  leading  member  in  the  House  of  Commons,  But  the  cheering  prospect  w^ch  some 
enjoyed  of  a  system  of  vigour,  vigilance,  and  economy,  being  adopted,  was  unexpectedly  clouded.  A  motion,  in 
|he  new  House  of  Commons,  convoked  December  15^1 806,  in  behalf  of  the  claims  of  the  Catholics,  fellow^  up 


LONG  HOUGHTON  PARISH.  429 

William  Brabazon  Ponsonby,  afterwards  created  Lord  Ponsonby,  by  Loidsa  Moles* 
worth,  daughter  of  Richard,  third  Viscount  Molesworth.  By  her  his  lordship  has 
issue,  1.  Henry,  Viscount  Howick,  bom  December  27,  1802.  2.  Charles,  bom  March 
15,  1804.  S.  Frederick  William,  born  August  26,  1805.  4.  Lady  Louisa  Elizabeth, 
bom  April  7, 1797 ;  married  to  John  Greorge  Lambton,  Esq.  and  has  issue.  5.  Lady 
Elizabeth,  bom  July  10,  1798.  6.  Lady  Caroline,  bom  1799.  7.  Lady  G^rsina, 
born  Febmary  17, 1801.  8.  Lady  Mary,  bom  May  2,  1807.  9.  William,  bom  May 
18,  1808 ;  died  at  Howick,  Febmary  12,  1815.  10.  George,  bom  May  16,  1809.  11. 
Thomas,  bom  December  29, 1810,  12,  —  seventh  son,  Ixiro  March  2, 1812.  18.  — 
eighth  son,  bom  March  31,  1818. 

On  an  eminence,  about  800  yards  north-w^t  from  the  mouth  of  Howick  Bum,  are 
the  remajins  of  a  Roman  camp.  Though  the  stones  have  been  mostly  removed  for 
various  purposes,  yet  its  form  and  limits  may  be  easily  traced.  About  60  ye^ffs  ago, 
several  pieces  of  broken  spears  and  swords,  and  some  Koman  coins,  were  found  here. 
Half  a  mile  west  from  Howick  Hall,  a  man  named  Hdhnes,  when  digging,  found 
several  gold  rings,  linked  in  the  form  of  a  gorget.  We  have  not  been  able  to  lepm 
how  it  was  disposed  of.  *  Near  the  Pasture-house,  while  digging  a  cravel  pit,  several 
large  ums  were  ftnmd,  about  four  feet  below  the  surface;  but  they  fell  to  pieces 
when  exposed  to  the  air.  Adjoining  the  same  place,  when  clearing  the  face  of  a 
limestone  rock,  the  <][uarrymen  found  a  quantity  of  bumdH  bones.  The  bodies  had 
been  interred  in  the  side  of  the  rock. 

LONG  HOUGHTON  PARISH, 

This  parish,  which  is  two  miles  in  extent  from  north  to  south,  and,  on  an  average, 
about  three  miles  from  east  to  west,  is  bounded  by  the  sea  on  the  east,  by  Howick 
and  Embleton  parishes  on  the  north,  by  Alnwick  parish  on  the  west,  and  by  Lesbury 
on  the  south.  It  contains  89  houses,  and  650  inhabitants.  The  seashore,  from  Sea- 
ton  House  to  Boomer,  are  mostly  level  freestone  ro^s ;  but  *t  the  latter  place,  9 

• 

by  a  bill  intended  far  their  relief,  excited  an  alarm  in  the  breast  of  his  majesty,  respecting  his  duty,  and  the 
obb'gations  of  his  coronation  oath.  Hie  result  was  the  formation  of  a  new  ministry^  and  the  dissolution  of 
parliament  At  the  ensuing  election  a  violent  clamour  was  raised  against  Mr.  Grey  (now  lord  Howick)  and 
his  associates ;  and  the  cry  of  **  No  Popery  resounded  throughout  every  part  of  the  kingdom.  At  the  deQ« 
tion  a  powerful  competitor  entered  the  lists  for  Northumberland^  and  Lord  Howick  Uiought  it  prudent  to  de- 
dino  the  contest  He  was,  however,  returned  for  Appleby ;  but  in  a  short  time^  in  consequence  of  his  father^s 
death,  he  took  his  seat  in  the  house  of  peers,  as  Baron  Grey  de  Howick.  After  this,  dissentions  arose  in  the 
cabinet ;  and  the  leading  party,  in  order  to  secure  their  power,  proposed  to  admit  Earl  Grey,  with  his  fHend 
Lord  Grenville,  into  the  ministry.  The  latter  hurried  to  London ;  but  the  foimer  wrote  a  cool  and  dignified 
answer  to  the  proposal  from  Howick.  During  the  alarm  that  agitated  the  kingdomi  in  the  latter  end  of  1S19, 
Earl  Grey  courageously  defended  the  safeguards  of  civil  and  political  liberty ;  and  at  the  dose  of  the  queen's 
trial,  the  constitutional  knowledge,  the  manly  feelings,  and  the  impressive  eloquence,  whidi  he  displayed^ 
were  greatly  admired  even  by  his  opponents,  and  will  form  an  interesting  page  in  British  histoij^  It  ia 
<mly  necessary  to  add,  that  Earl  Grey  haa  nobly  aasuitained  the  ancient  renown  of  las  familyj,  an4  earo^ 
the  respect  of  his  contemporaries^  to  whatever  par^  they  belong. 

VOL.  L  5  Q 


480  BAMBEOUGH  WABD.— S.  D. 

whinstone  4ike,  about  40  feet  in  breadth,  iatasects  the  adjoining  strata.*  The  guc* 
eeeding  ridges  northwards  for  about  800  yprds  are  xw^y  a  gr^  slate^  beyond  which 
a  bed  of  sand  ruiu  behind  the  rpeks,  about  100  yards  wide,  as  £ar  as  Duiistanbrough 
Castle.  It  is  <»dled  SandUand^s  Bfng.  Close  to  Howick  Burn  mouth,  lies  an  iron 
scar,  from  which  paving  stones  are  brought.  The  streets  of  Alnwick  are  mostly 
paved  with  them.  Limestone,  lead,  and  cools,  are  al$o  f<>und  in  this  paiish.  There 
IS  but  one  school  at  Long  Houghton,  attended  by  45  diijdren,  and  a  small  Sunday-r 
sehool  supported  by  subscription.  The  Bchool«-house  was  vepired  and  enlarged  la 
1B22.  Mr.  CuthbOTt  Chessman,  by  will,  in  1789*  left  a  rent-cnarge  of  £3  per  annum 
to  the  poor  of  this  parish,  which  in  1786  was  vested  in  Jane  Lowes. 

I^Ko  Houghton  is  a  strangling  village,  situate  four  miles  and  a  half  east  by 
north  from  Alnwidc.  It  oontams  65  houses,  including  fo\jx  farmsteads  and  two  pub« 
lie  houses.  A  piece  of  ground  is  attached  to  each  dwelmig«-bou$e.  The  church,  wnich 
is  dedicalied  to  3t  Peter,  is  a  (dain  structure*  witii  a  square  tower  about  45  feet  high. 
From  ins^pdons  found  in  the  cfawieel,  this  chureh  seems  to  have  been  a  biuring- 
plaee  for  a  bratidi  of  the  ancient  family  of  iU)ddam,  who  resided  at  Little  Houghton. 
Here  wte  also  funeral  mcmuinfints  of  the  Clarkes  ^c^  Bebside  9XiA  WaUsend.  The 
Uviiig  is  a  discbarged  vicarage,  valued  in  th0  king's  books  at  £7,  B^.  0.  of  which  the 
Duke  of  Koithumbevland,  the  proprietor  pf  Lc^^  HQUghton,  is  patron.  The  inha- 
bitants of  this  village  keep  up  their  annual  feast  with  g^eat  spirit. 

•  ^^ 

Little  Houghton  is  a  i»maU  village,  about  one  mile  north-west  from  Long 

Houghton,  near  to  which  stood  an  ancient  tower,  about  S5  feet  square.    The  lower 

part  was  taken  down  in  1808.    The  walls  were  five  feet  thick,  the  apartments  arched, 

and  the  stairs  winded  round  one  comer.    The  door  was  very  massive ;  and  the  works 

of  the  key,  which  was  found  in  the  rubbish,  were  four  inches  square.    The  manor 

and  estate  belong  to  H.  P.  BurreU,  aitd  H.  P.  Brumell,  Esqrs,  the  grandsons  of  the 

former  proprietcnr,  Henry  PeajDeth,.  Esq*    AbQUt  a  furlong  north  from  the  mansion^ 

house  is  the  Lead  Mine,  which  is  now  wrought  by  the  lessee,  Mr.  Teasdale.    This 

mine  was  open  so  late  as  the  year  1768,  as  "J.  P.  1763,"  were  found  cut  out  of  the 

rock,  by  the  workmen  who  commenced  this  new  attempt  in  1820*    They  also  found, 

in  the  old  workings,  candles,  a  pick,  a  wheelbarrow,  and  other  implements,  which 

seems  to  justify  the  tradition,  that  the  mine  was  suddenly  aband<»ied  in  consequence 

of  a  stream  of  water  from  a  new  sunk  pit  deluging  the  workings.    The  principal  vein 

ranges  south  by  east,  and  varies  in  thickness  from  14  td^  near  28  indbes.    There  are 

also  cross  veins ;  but  their  value  has  not  been  ascertained.    The  pits  are  about  nine 

fatbonis  deep :  the  ore  is  found  mostly  in  guts  of  sand  in  the  limestone ;  but  it  is  slso 

*  An  ohUgmg  correspdndetit,  Mr.  ThoroM  Rogers,  of  I^ong  Hoagbton^  says,  "  On  th«  south  side  of  this 
ridge  is  tihe  boat^landing,  wliich  might  be  converted  inlU)  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the  north  of  England. 
The  rocks  form  a  complete  bason^  the  depth  of  the  entranoe  being  at  low  water  IS  feet,  and  at  high  water  35 
ftet.  It  extends  above  400  jards  from  nerdi  to  south,  and  from  7  to  SOO  yards  from  high  to  low  wat^  marL 
When  the  sand  Is  remored  in  this  capacious  basan»  during  very  stormy  weathffy  the  roots  of  immense  trees  are 
discovered  amongst  the  black  moss.  The  utility  of  such  a  pkce  of  safety  in  dangerous  storms  has  been 
strangely  overlooked." 


LEBKJRY  PARISH.  4dl 

Ibund  in  the  freerton^  rery  near  tiye  Ais&teL '  tt  n  impoNible  to  {xri^diet  tb^  teimlt  of 
this  spirited  enterpiize.  Coal-  has  also  teeti  ivmaght  here  above  a  century  ago.  It 
is  indicated  by  a  umestone,  15  feet  thick,  having  9  seam  of  ^  Oow  ooal,''  six  indies 
thick,  below  it.  Thirty-tlu^ee  feet  lower  down  is  the  principal  coal-seam,  separated 
by  about  10  iikches  of  a  soft  date.  This  jomI,  which  is  called  **  Metal  coal,''  triU  not 
cake,  \mt,  when  lifted  by  oilier  eoaia,  fli!i6wers  weQ  in  1ime4d]n8;  one  load  of  00^ 
tmrdupig  three  of  hme.  The  ooUieiy  is  hit  mougfat  at  -present.  The  quality  of  tibie 
0Qak  improred  as  the  diataiice  front  ihe  leadnnine  increases. 

.:BooM£it  stands  on  the  sea^hoDe,  iabont  1^  mile  east  by  south  from  Lonjr  Houghton, 
and  6  miles  east  by  north  fimn  Aliiwick.  It  is  principally  inhabited  by  fisneitnen,  and 
eontaihs  seveDte^i  dwelHng^hoilste,  afad  a  pubhc  house,  kept  by  Mr.  Isaac  AlHson,  a 
man  &n¥Mis  for  his  enterprize,  strength,  and  dimenaons.  This  place,  as  weU  as  dU'  tile 
other  little  fishing  towns  on  the  coaat^  has  always  been  distinguished  f<Mr  active  smikg^ 
gkrs.  Both  Boomer,  and  die  townsl^p  of  Seaiott  ILmsef  a  Utile  to  the  south,  are  the 
moperty  of  the  Duke  of  Kortfaiimbenand.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Aln  to  Howidc 
Bum,  the  sea  spears  to  have  overwhefaned  a  forest  of  oaks,  the  ^enormous  roots  d 
which  are  still  oocasionaliy  dkcorered  by  the  removal  of  the  sand.* 

Ratehheugh  Crag^  a  stupendous  and  romantie  rock^  at  the  western  exta*emity  df  this 
panuh,  wiU  be  noticed  in  flesdilmf^  1^  plearare^glounds  atUuilied  to  Alnwick  ^a^. 

LESBU&Y  PARISH. 

This  parish  is  not  of  grea[t  extent  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  fay  Long  Hough- 
ton, <Hi  the  east  by  the  sea,  on  the  south  by  Waikworth,  and  on  the  weA  by  the  pa-^ 
ri^  of  Alnwick.  From'  Seatbil.  House  to  Woodeii  is  afboUt  S|  miles.  It  contains 
198  houses,  and  982  inhafaitants.  The  parish-ischool  is  endowed  with  a  piece  of 
grouad,  bequeathed  by  Mr.  Heray '  Strainer  in  17IS9  vhich  lets  for  ten  guineas  a 
rear.  For  this  sum  tns  master  teaohes  ei?«fcy  third  scholar  gratis,  and  takes  one  shil- 
Ung  per  quarter  kss  than  the  oommoh  charge  in  the  neighbourhood.  A  Sunday^ 
school  was  also  lately  established^  which  is  attended  by  40  children.  There  is  a 
day-«2hool at  Alemimth.*  Mr.  John  CoUker^  'in  VI ^  left  £<0  t6  the  poori^  this 
parish,  and  which  in  1T86  paK>dueed  £2^  9#.  id.  being  the  rent  paid  ftom  a  galksry 
erected  in  the  chureh: 

■ 

. .        .  •  *  -   ■ 

L^SBUEY  is  findy  situate  on  the  biiriks  of  the  Aln,  which  flows  up  thus  fw,  in  a' 
beautiful  and  fertile  country,  and  is  about  four  ndles^  eiiist  by  sooth  from  Alnwidb. 
It  is  an  irregular  built  village,  consisting  of  the  vicarage,  three  farmholds^  two  public 
hou^es^  and  thirty-one  cottages,  with  portions  of  land  attadbed  to  eadi*  The  late  Mr. 
Hay  erected  a  handsome  house  heoe,.  which  he  tastrfully  adorned  by  a  judieioas  dia^ 
iday  of  rami  beauties.  It  ia  now  the  ttoperty  of  the  Rev.  John  Herdtean,  D.  D. 
nis  8on4n*law,  who  oeeupkfii  Lesbury  Mills,  and  carries  on  business  to  a  great  extent. 
The  chureh,  whidi  is  dedieaitod  to  St.  Maly,  oflfers  nothing  worthy  kA  notice.    The 

« 

*  Several  particokn  relative  to  this  XHoish  liave  been  oommunicated  by  Mr.  Henry  Ferguson  oFEmbleton. 


432  BAMBBOUGH  WAED,--S,  D, 

living  ifl  a  discharged  vicarage,  valued  in  the  king's  books  at  £8,  2^.  lOd. ;  the  kmg 
is  patron  *  Lesbury  being  a  dependent  manor  of  thd  barony  of  Alnwick^  belongs  to 
the  Duke  of  NorUiimibemnd, 

Al^EMOUTH/ or  more  properly  AinrnMth,  stands  on  a  rising  ground  at  the  north 
side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Aln,  above  5  miles  east-south-east  firom  Alnwick,  and  is  a 
dependent  manor  to  .the  barony  of  Alnwick,  bdohging  to  his  Grace  the  Duke  of 
Northumberland.  Here  are  six  public  houses,  and  several  convenient  lodging  houses 
for  the  accommodation  of  bathers.  At  present,  ten  vessels,  from  50  to  150  tons  bur- 
then, belong  to  the  port,  besides  many  others  that  visit  it  oecasionaUv.  The;^  are 
prindpaQy  employed  in  conveying  merchandize  from  London,  &c.  for  the  merchants 
m  Alnwick,  of  which  place  this  may  be  considered  the  i  port.  Bark,  and  timba!^  for 
building,  are  also  sometimes  imported.  The  exports  are  mostly  com,  eggs  and  pork 
for  the  London  market,  and  wool  for  the  Vbrk^ire  manufacturers;  but  all  the 
branches  of  this  trade  have  lately  suffered  a  rapid  deatease.  Before  the  late  war,  the 
trade  was  so  brisk  that  eighteen  vessels  were  sometimes  lying  in  the  port  aft'OnetiiRe. 
Smugggling  was  also  pursued  here  with  singular  dexterity,  boldness,  and  success* 
OccasionaUy  some  little  business  is  done  here  in  the  diip-building  Une.  The  firrt 
vessd  built  at  Alemouth  was  800  toiis  burthen,  and  was  laundied  on  the  ISth  of 
March,  1768.  The  harbour  is  extremely  inoonveniait ;  but  it  is  capable  of  mueh 
improvement. 

On  an  eminence,  which  is  now  separated  from  the  town  by  the  Aln,  stood  the  ruins 
of  a  church,  in  the  form  of  a  cross.  It  was  dedicated  to  St.  John  the  Baptist  When 
or  by  whom  this  edifice  was  destroyed,  is  not  known.  The  only  remaining  part  was 
blown  down  on  the  25th  of  December,  1806.    The<  chuKh^yard  was,  untu  about  20 

J  ears  ago,  used  as  a  burial-ground ;  the  sides  of  wMchf  have  been  much  washed  away* 
y  the  violence  of  the  sea ;  and,  at  high-water,,  it  is  now  coniipletely  surrounded.  On 
the  east  bank,  bones  of  an  enormous  size  have  been  discovered.  **  Ignonmt  specta- 
tors," says  Hutchinson,  **  have  retained  the  circumstance,  without  distinguishmg  of 
what  animals  these  were  the  rechains :  and  being  found  near  a  {dace  of  human  inter- 
ment, th^y  ai^  at  otace  conceived  to  have  belonged  to  men  of  gigantic  stature.  The 
constant  warfare  that  distressed  these  shores  for  ases,  might  occasion  the  slaughter  of 
vast  numbers  of  horses  and  other  beasts,  which,  after  ^  d^y  of  havoc^,  may  have  been 
thrown  into  one  common  pit.  The  remains  of  elephants  have  been  discovered  in  se^ 
veral  parts  of  England,  and  have  given  the  like  apprehension  to  the  vulgar,  that  giants 
once  distressed  wis  ialand."  Several  stone  eomns  were  found  in  this  burial-place; 
but  we  havQ  not  been  able  to  leam  what  were  their  din^nsions  <»>  contents. 

*  Several  extraorditiafy  drcnnifitatieeft  are  told  of  a  citrgyman^  who  once  held  a  living  near  to  Alnwick^ 
supposed  to  be  that  of  Lesbury :  his  name  was  Michael  Vivan^  a  native  of  North  BritBin,  whose  hair,  when 
he  was  an  hundred  and  ten  years  oldj  came  sgain,  as  a  child's,  of  a  fisxen  ccdour ;  he  had  also  thxee  teeth  cut 
within  two  years^  and  the  atrengtii  and  deamess  of  his  si^ht  returned.  He  was  as  strong  as  he  had  been  for 
twenty  years  before;  and  he  preached  and  prayed  an  hoomnd  a  half  without  any  notes^  and  was  very  hearty 
and  cheerful  at  that  age^  but  stooped  much.  Being  asked  how  he  preached  so  well  with  so  few  bo^,  and 
was*  SQ  cb^rful  with  so  few  acqwuntan^^  be  «nswered«  "  Of  friends  and  books  good  and  fbw  are  best^" 


COQUETDALE    WARD. 


HIS  Ward,  derives  its  name  from  the  river  Coquet,  trhidi  runs 
through  it  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Bambrough  and  Glen- 
dale  Wards,  on  the  west  by  Scotland,  on  the  south  by  Tindale 
and  Morpeth  Wards,  and  on  the  east  by  the  sea.  It  is,  upon  an 
average,  21  miles  in  length,  and  15  miles  in  breadth,  and  contains 
24,000  acres  under  tillage,  with  about  11,000  acres  of  meadow. 
Within  its  limits  are  two  market-towns  and  19  parishes.  The 
aspect  and  soil  of  this  extensive  Ward  varies  greatly,  from  the 
lofty,  solitary,  and  barren  wastes,  to  the  richest  and  most  beautifrd  valleys  imaginable. 
The  surface  of  the  eastern  district  slopes  gently  towards  the  sea.  The  soil  is  pecu* 
liarly  rich  and  productive,  and  is  exceUenlfy  adapted  to  the  culture  of  turnips,  artifi* 
dial  grasses,  and  tiie  various  species  of  grain.  This  part  is  also  rich  in  coal;  and 
freestone  of  very  superior  jjuaiity.  The  vale  of  Whittingham  has  been  long  and 
profitably  employed  m  grazing ;  but  Rimside  Moor,  which  stretches  frt>m  this  place 
towards  the  river  Coquet^  exnibits  a  most  barren  and  dismal  aspect,  and  may  justiy 
be  considered  as  fhe  most  ungrateful  and  unproductive  soil  in  the  county.  To  the 
west  of  Rothbury  a  light  dry  loam  mostly  prevails,  and  is  well  adapted  for  breeding 
and  feeding  the  most  improved  kinds  of  stock.  A  cold  wet  loam,  very  dangerous  for 
sheep,,  generally  occupies  the  banks  of  the  river  Reed ;  but  the  north-west  part  of  the 
Ward  is  occupied  by  lofty  mountains,  which,  in  many  places,  to  their  summits,  pro- 
duce green  sward  witii  littie  heath,  where  sheep  are  teslred  with  peculiar  advantage. 
Many  of  the  sheep  fSmners  in  this  Ward  are  rich,  and  occupy  extensive  districts ;  and 
the  total  nun]Jber  of  this  species  of  stock  has  been  calculated  to  exceed  150,000. 


EAST   DIVISION. 


ALNWICK  PARISH 

I&  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  parishes  of  Eglingham  and  EdBi^ham*  on 
the  nortb^-east  by  Embleton  and  Long  Hcmghtonj  and  on  toe  east  and  south  by  Le^ 
bury  and  Shilbottle,    Its  extreme  length  is  about  8^  and  the  extreme  bneadth  about 

vol..  L— (19)  «  R 


434  COQUETDALE  WARD— E.  D. 

5  miles.  It  contains  three  townships  (one  of  which  is  in  Bambrough  Ward*),  eleven 
constableries,  82S  houses,  and  5,927  inhabitants.  The  average  anniial  increase,  during 
the  last  twenty  years,  is  above  5  houses  and  60  persons.  The  soil  varies  greatly. 
Great  part  is  barren  moor  land,  and  a  considerable  portion  richly  ornamented  pleasure 

f'ounds.    Coal,  freestone,  limestone,  whinstone,  and  marble,  are  found  in  this  parish, 
he  state  of  education,  charitable  bequests,  and  public  institutions,  will  be  noticed  in 
the  .sequel. 

Alnwick,!  which  is  the  county  town  of  Northumberland,  is  delightfully  and 
conveniently  situate  on  the  declivities  of  a  hill,  the  foot  of  which  is  wa^ed  on  the  north 
by  Aln's  **  silveiy"  stream.  It  is  311  miles  north  by  west  from  London,  34^  miles  in 
the  same  direction  from  Newcastle,  30  miles  south  by  east  from  Berwick,  and  about 
5  'mUes  west  from  the  German  Ocean,  the  prospect  of  which  is  intercepted  by  a  range 
of  hills. 

Alnwick,  like  other  border  towns,  for  its  security  and  defence,  was  formerly  sur- 
rounded  by  walls,  having  foiu-  gatesguarded  by  square  towers,  viz.  Bondgate,  Clay- 
port,  Pottergate,  and  Bailiffgate.  These  were  erected  by  Henry  Lord  Percy,  in  the 
reign  of  H^ory  Vt. ;  but  the  cessation  of  intestine  war  has  Icmg  since  permitted  them 
to  fall  into  decay.  The  gate  in  Bondgate-street,  in  the  form  of  a  tower,  still  remains 
as  a  memorial  of  the  renowned  Hotspur,  by  whose  son,  Henry,  second  Earl  of  North- 
umberland, it  was  erected.  The  principal  streets  are,  Bailifl^te-street,  Narrowgate- 
street,  Bond^te-street,  the  Market,  Fenkle-Street,  Pottergate-street,  and  Clayport- 
street.  Besides  these  there  are  some  places  situated  on  the  confines  of  the  town ;  as, 
the  Green  Bat,  the  Backway  or  En^e-lane,  and  Canongate-street  and  Walkergate 
or  Watergate-street,  which  form  a  kmd  of  suburbs  to  the  town. 

BaiKffgate^treet^  which  is  veiy  wide  and  well  built,  is  situate  on  the  north  side  of 
the  town,  and  ext^ids  from  the  castle  in  a  direction  towards  the  west.  The  old  gate 
was  removed  a  number  of  years  ago.  Formerly  a  cross  stood  in  front  of  the  castle, 
where  probably  the  market,  or  some  other  public  meeting,  had  been  held.  Narrow^ 
^ate*street  has  many  excellent  buildings.  It  forms  a  part  of  the  great  north  road,  and 
joins  Bondfgate^street  The  latter  forms  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  the  south  and 
the  east.  It  is  a  good  street,  vmr  wide  and  airy,  and,  within  these  few  years,  has  re- 
ceived several  improvements.  Tiie  old  gate  about  the  middle  of  it,  which  belongs  to 
his  Grace  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  beinff  considered  an  obstruction,  some  years 
ago,  a  number  of  the  prindpal  inhabitants  made  application  to  the  late  Duke  to  have 

*  Denwick  township  is  in  Bambrough  Ward ;  but  the  entire  parish  will  always  be  described  in  the  Ward 
where  the  church  is  situate. 

f  Alnwick  derives  its  name  from  the  river  Aln  (which  is  undoubtedly  an  abbreviation  ciAlwen  or  Alain),' 
signifying  in  the  language  of  the  ancient  Britons^  *^a  white  or  bright  stream,"  with  the  addition  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  wick,  which  was  probably  first  applied  to  the  castle. 

William  de  Alnwidc^  L.  L.  P.  confessor  to  Henry  VI.  and  keeper  of  the  privy  seal^  derived  his  name  firom 
this  town.  He  was  recommended  by  his  majesty  and  the  ministry  for  the  bishopric  of  Ely,  on  the  death  of 
John  Fordham,  who  held- both  that  see  and  JDurham ;  but  his  installation  did  not  take  place^  in  omisequence 
of  die  pope's  interposition. 


ALNWICK  PARISH. 


485 


it  removed ;  but,  in  consequence  of  its  having  been  built  by  his  noUe  ancestor  before 
mentioned,  and  the  onl^  remaining  structure  erected  by  that  celebrated  hero  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  he  dechned  to  comply  with  their  request.  However,  his  grace  having 
caused  an  old  house  to  be  taken  down,  and  a  spacious  arched  way  to  be  made  on  the 
north  side,  one  of  its  principal  inconveniences  has  been  obviated,  and  it  is  now  ren- 
dered pleasant  and  commodious  to  foot  passengers.  There  are  several  ancient  houses 
in  this  street.  One  of  these  in  particular,  fnun  its  having  the  De  Yescy  arms  sculp- 
tured upon  it,  must  have  stood  from  about  the  year  1290.  It  appears  to  have  been 
formerly  approt»iated  to  reli^ous  uses.  Fenkle-^treet  runs  parallel  with  the  west 
side  of  the  MarKet-place.  It  is  wide  and  airy,  and  has  many  excellent  buildings,  par- 
ticularly on  the  west  side,  which  stands  on  a  gentle  acclivity.  Pottergate-^treet  stands 
nearly  perpendicular  to  Narrowgate,  and  lea£  up  a  steep  acdivity,  at  the  top  of  which 
a  beautifm  structure,  60  feet  m  height,  was  erected  on  the  sdte  of  the  old  gate. 
Clayparty  which  is  the  entrance  into  the  town  from  the  west,  is  now  a  most  exc^ent 
street,  in  consequence  of  the  clumpy  old  gate  having  been  removed  a  few  years  ago. 
Before  the  erection  of  the  Town-haU,  the  burgesses  held  their  public  meetings  in  this 
tower.  The  Green  Bat  is  an  irregular  street  built  on  the  ccmnnes  of  the  town,  lead- 
ing from  where  the  tower  stood  in  Clayport-street  to  the  tower  in  Bondgate-street. 
The  Backway  leads  from  Pottergate  Tower  to  the  middle  of  Clayport-street.  Walk^ 
ergate  or  Watergate^treet  forms  a  suburb  to  the  north-west  side  of  the  town,  running 
'  parallel  with  Bailiifgate-street,  and  leading  from  the  north  bridge  to  the  h^id  of  Ca- 
nongate-street.  In  this  street  there  is  a  house  which  was  formerly  a  chapel,  and  de-  - 
dicated  to  the  Lady  Marv.  Canangate  is  situate  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  town, 
and  has  probably  aerived  its  name  from  leading  to  the  abbey  or  house  of  canons.  It 
is  a  township,  and  holds  a  manor  court  about  Michaelmas,  when  a  mayo^  is  elected. 
There  is  a  common  or  pasturage  attached  to  it,  consisting  of  about  three  acres.  In 
1769,  the  manor  of  this  township  was  in  the  possession  of  Sir  Lancelot  Allgood,  of 
Nunwick,  knight. 

Upon  the  whole,  this  town  is  well  built  and  the  streets  judiciously  disposed.  The 
houses  are  mostly  built  of  freestone,  and  many  of  them  approach  to  elegance.  Some 
improvements  were  made  in  the  streets  in  the  wint^  of  1816,  by  the  industrious  who 
were  employed  by  subscription ;  and,  in  182S,  an  act  of  parliament  was  obtained  for 
lighting,  paving,  cleansing,  watching,  and  otherwise  improvii^  the  town.  Workmen 
are  now  employed  in  levdling,  paving,  and  flagging  some  of  the  streets,  all  of  which 
will  soon-  be  rendered  dean  and  convenient.  Two  spirited  individuals  have  erected 
gas-works  for  their  own  use  and  the  accommodation  of  their  neighbours ;  but  no  plan 
has  been  adopted  for  extending  the  use  of  this  brilliant  discovery  to  the  lighting  of 
the  streets. 

The  TowU'HaU  is  most  commodiously  situate  on  the  west  side  of  the  Market-place, 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  was  built  on  the  sdte  of  the  old  Beerhouses  and  Toll- 
booth.  On  the  front  is  an  inscription  stating  that  it  was  erected  in  the  year  1731. 
It  ccHitains  a  large  haQ  with  two  rooms  adjoining,  and  is  used  for  holding  the  quarter 
sessions,  the  county  and  manor  courts,  and  the  meetings  of  the  common  council  and 
the  several  companies  of  freemen.  In  tiiis  hall  the  members  of  parliament  for  the 
county  are  elected,  and  other  public  business  is  transacted.    It  is  entered  by  a  flight 


4^  COQUETDALE  WARD.««^.  B. 


of  steps  in  the  front,  and  is  a  spadooa  tod  el^airt  apartonent^  in  which  all  the  genteel 
asBemDlies  an  heid.  The  exterior  is  adorned  with  a  square  tower^  in  which  is  placed 
an  exeeUent  clocks  exhilntinff  the  hours  in  four  differa^t  diieetions.  It  is  ornamented 
with  five  vanes,  one  <m  each  comer,  and  one  on  a  small  dcme  in  the  centre.  The 
ground  floor  of  this  building,  in  the  frcnl,  otxitains  two  neat  shops  and  two  roonu^ 
with  a  large  rault  undemeatti.  In  the  haek  part  is  a  room  with  other  cmiveniences ; 
also  an  apartment  which  is  used  as  a  wei^^-hQuie  and  office  for  inspecting  raw  hides, 
and,  when  soldien  are  quartered  in  the  town,  as  a  guanUiouse. 

The  Shambles  form  an  oblong  range  on  the  south  aide  of  the  Marketplace.  They 
are  finished  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  waie  ereefeed  about  the  year  176$  by  the  first 
Duke  of  N<»thumberland.  in  the  front  of  this  beautiful  structure  is  a  neat  pi^ixa,. 
supported  by  elegmt  pillars,  and  ornamented  with  the  different  crests  and  badgea  of 
the  illustrious  house  or  Percy. 

The  Market  Crossy  which  stands  at  the  ncrtbeask  comer  of  the  Maiket-place,  as  of 
an  octagonal  form,  and  has  seven  steps  up  ta  the  plintii.  The  d^ift  is  about  ten  feet 
high,  and  has  a  Tuscan  capital,  whicii  is  surmounted  with  four  erect  dials  facing  the 
four  cardinal  points.    The  whole  structure  is  nearly  fifteen  feet  high. 

In  a  lane  leading  ^m  the  G^reen  Bat  to  the  Marketplace  stands  the  C^rreefiom 
House.  It  was  elected  in  the  year  180T,  and  coovtains  a  work-room,  nine  cells,  and 
other  necessary  apartments ;  wiw  two  separate  yards  for  the  prisoners,  one  for  each  sex. 

The  Dmot  for  the  arma,  acooutremMts,  and  dotlnng  of  the  Northumberland  L^t 
Infantry  Kegiment  of  Militia,  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  Bonc^te^^treet,  and  at 
a  short  distance  east  of  the  tower. 

Pattergate  Tawer,  which  was  formerty  a  most  beautiful  structure,  60  feet  in  height, 
was  erected  on  the  sdite  of  the  old  gate  in  the  year  176&  The  spire,  the  most  finisned 
and  elegant  part  of  this  edifice,  was  taken  down  by  order  of  the  chamberlains  and 
common  council  of  the  borough,  in  1814.  It  bore  a  strtkin||  tesinnhlance  to  the 
steeple  of  St.  Nicholas'  church,  Newcastle ;  and  from  its  standuig  on  an  eminence, 
mm!  oeing  built  of  fine  fireestone,  added  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  town ;  but,  bemg 
shorn  of  its  beauties,  it  now  presents  a  trim,  naked^  and  sober  appearance.  It  con* 
(nkis  a  large  c^ock,  with  the  dial  on  the  east  side. 

The  Fire-engine  Hemee  stands  in  the  Backwar,  nearly  Adjoining  Clayp<»rt-«treet 
It  was  erected  at  the  expence  of  the  bOTough  in  the  yeur  1810. 

The  C%«rcA,  whidi  stands  at  a  short  distance  from,  the  town^  al  the  end  of  Bailiff^ 
gate^treet,  is  dedicated' to  St  Mary  and  St  MichaeL  It  ia  a  larg^  Gothic  bualdiiffi, 
and  is  yet  complete  and  entirei  Tm  year  ift  whidi  it  was  emoted  eanttot  be  predsefy 
known ;  thougti,  fh>m  the  architecture  of  the  aidies,  and  &omt  the  ama  of  the  Vesc^ 
family  being  on  different  parts,  and  the  arms  of  Percy  on  one  of  the  caps  of  the  pif* 
ters,  it  is  pretty  w^  ascertained  W  have  been,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  L  probably 
about  the  year  1900.  It  ia  in  lengfli  csm  the  north  side  136  feet  €  inches,  and  on  tM 
fouth  dde  196  feet  4  inehea.  The  fatfeadft  «t  tiie  east  end  is  62  fast  4  taiches,  and  at 
^  west  end  57  feet  %  indies.  It  has  two  doors  and  seven  windows  in  the  fronts  and 
mie  door  and  nine  whidbws  in  liie  back.  ThMt  are  duree  windows  in  the  east  end» 
tfid  two  in  the  west  end,  with  some  other  stnnll  ones  in  diffei^^t  purts*  The  wiiw 
dows  are  mostly  fea  the  GotMe  styles  and  appear  tJ6  have  been  <mce  of  painted  gkfi^. 


r. 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  487 


^pf esenting  various  figures,  as  there  are  several  panes  of  that  kind  yet  remaining. 
It  has  an  3egant  square  steeple,  in  whidi  are  contained  the  bells.  On  one  of  the 
bells  is  an  old  inscription  in  Anglo-Norman  characters.  Within  the  church  there  are 
three  aisles,  also  one  large  gallery  supported  on  fourteen  cast  iron  columns.  On  two 
pannels  on  the  front  of  the  old  gallery,  previous  to  its  being  taken  down  to  make  way 
for  the  present  one,  were  the  foUoT^ng  inscriptions : — 

'<  This  Gallery  was  erected  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Mark  Forster,  of  AlDwick,  Merchant,  reserving  to 
him  and  his  heirs  the  middle  front  seat  and  the  seat  bdind,  and  gave  the  profits  of  the  rendue  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Church ;  and  ako  gave  a  large  house  and  garden,  situate  in  Clayport^treet,  for  the 
augmentation  of  the  Curacy.^ 

<<  The  said  Mr.  Mark  Torster,  in  the  Year  1726,  bequeathed  the  Annual  sum  of  Five  Pounds  to 
the  Poor  of  this  Parish,  distributable  on  Christmas-day :  and  also  the  Annual  sum  of  Ten  Pounds  for 
the  Education  of  poor  Freemen^s  Children  of  the  Town  of  Alnwick,  and  likewise  a  School  house  in 
Clayport-street  for  the  teaching  of  those  Children.^ 


.Wl 


In  the  church  are  the  three  following  inecriptions  :• 


<«  Captain  Benjamin  Barton,  in  the  Year  1781>  bequeathed  the  sum  of  <£100  to  the  Town  of  AJn. 
wick  for  the  fdlowing  Uses:  the  Interest  of  £B0  thereof  for  the  Educatioa  of  non-freemen*8  Childreii 
of  the  said  Town,  and  the  Interest  of  the  other  £80  Yearly  to  the  Poor  of  the  said  Town,  distributa« 
ble  by  the  Minister  on  Whitsunday.^ 

"  Hugh  Potter,  Esquire,  io  the  Year  1669,  bequeathed  the  Sum  of  ^40  to  the  Town  of  Alnwick; 
the  Interest  thereof  after  the  Rate  of  Six  Pounds  per  cent.  Yearly  to  the  Poor  of  the  said  Town,  dis- 
tribttftable  by  the  Minister  on  Good  Friday.^ 

<«Mis8  Mary  Taylor,  of  Christon^bank,  jn  the  year  1810,  bequeathed  the  sum  of  One  Hundred 
Pounds  to  the  Poor  of  Alnwick  Parish,  the  Interest  of  which  to  be  distributed  by  the  Minister  and 
Churchwardens  in  the  Church  on  Christmas^day."* 

Behind  the  royal  arms,  over  the  arch  of  the  middle  aisle,  in  entering  the  chancel,  is 
this  inscription  in  Old  English  characters  :-^ 

i^umpmuf^  <Blrtiiit)ii  tamitit  (ognomittr  VtW^tb : 
4irogmttii  9ta$$Uti  0ttnt  tinfc  ini^iiinU  durau 

ANNO  DNO.  1660. 

Amongst  several  inscriptions  in  the  south  aisle  is  one  on  a  mural  monument  ^— - 

*^  Sacred  to  the  Memory  of  Stanton  Neale,  who  died  on  the  S8th  of  February,  I8l4,  aged  55  years : 
leaving  an  annual  bequest  of  Ten  Pounds  to  the  respective  Poor  of  Alnwick  and  Long  Houghton,  ta 
be  distributed  on  Christmas-day.^ 

This  charity  is  payable  out  of  the  rent  of  a  house  in  Bondgate^treet, 
VOL,  !•  5  S 


MS  COQinSTDALE  WABIK-^R  D. 

There  aM  many"  other  fimenl  iusmptions»  ranotigst  ijrhieh  two  deiorre  notice  fof 
their  age  and  quatntneei.    In  the  oroaa  aide  et  the  we^t  end  i»  the  IpUowipg  ^-^ 

Wondor  wi  ikader  .  Who  See  dbaeuved  him  •  A 
lojall  Suliject  of  mfofi^  ubimIu^  Frioe .  9oe  btue . 
We  known  such  ieweis  Hid  •  in  Maidd  .  AjmI 
Sweetest  .  Flowers  the  Shaidiest  Leaves  Enfold  . 
Know  Beader  *  in  those  Sacred  Ashes  •  then  Lies 
wider .  Couerd  •  A  Lojrallest .  of  .Men .  via « Biob* 
ard  .  Chaletoe  .  w1m»  .  departed  .  the  5^  of  Maith 
^  Anno  Dom  1664 

Sic  ,  iaoet  .  Matthias  .  Hvntar  .  legvm  .  Atj^pjmktvs 
vir  .  dignissim?  doctossimP  D  ,  D  .  xegi  i  fidftUwiiay 
natriir .  cfx^Lssiae  •  anglicap"^  .^Aarfli^niM— it  ?  avondani« 
seoesodlvs  .  singvlonr .  maaeriiMrTDp  •  adx;  prsenobk 
ilem  .  Algemoovn  .  Percy  .  pertinentiv  .  qvondamq . 
bilivvs  .  de  Alnewick  .  ^f^lh  .  Jkf  ,  etmorv  «  Qfaiit  * 
B.  in .  castro .  ibid .  7mo .  die .  ivnii .  anno  B  dom.  1665. 

Be .  hreadid  Italisii .  LMin  .  French .  and  Spash 
isk  4  all  witib  one  breath  aiM  if  thev  meaned.  to  bonsh 
themsehres  .  ftoai  heme  te  live  and  dwell  with  hias 
as  if  that  he  their  covntrie  man  had  been. 

Uma  .  tenet .  cineres  .  mentem  .  Deus  .  aethera . 
famam  .  Hunter  .  amissus  .  luctus  .  ubiq  .  b^us  . 

Immediately  within  the  small  south  door  in  the  south  aisle  of  the  church,  there  is 
a  stone  which  has  apparently  been  inlaid  with  several  armorial  bearings  on  copper ; 
but  these  and  the  inscription  are  so  much  defaced,  that  no  part  of  it  can  be  dedpnered 
exoept  the  date — 1597.  In  the  east  end  of  the  church  there  are  three  pedeatals,  on 
whicn  are  three  recumbent  ef&gies  in  stone,  with  the  hands  elevated,  in  a  supplicatory 
attitude ;  but  of  what  personages,  no  inscription  or  tradition  discovers. 

On  repairing  the  north  aisle  in  1816,  two  stone  statues,  about  two  ffeet  below  the 
surface,  were  discovered.  They  are  of  exquisite  workmanship  and  greet  antiquity. 
The  larger  one  represents  a  king,  and  is  pamted  in  a  scarlet  gown  and  crimson  robe, 
lined  with  ermine.  There  is  an  ermine  tippet  over  the  shoulders,  and  it  is  bound 
about  the  middle  with  a  strap,  which  has  heen  j^ded.  On  the  left  side  is  a  purse, 
and  on  the  right  something  resembling  a  string  of  beads.  In  the  left  hand  is  a  globe, 
in  the  right  a  sceptre,  and  at  the  feet  are  the  royal  arms.    The  other  statue  is  sup- 

Jiosed  toDe  the  representation  of  a  martyr,  and  by  some  thought  to  be  St.  Sebastian, 
t  i«  in  a  naked  state,  exeepting  a  piece  of  drapery  about  toe  middle.  The  legs, 
thioh^  and  body,  are  tr^nafixed  with  nine  arrows,  and  the  hands  and  feet  are  bound 
in  retters.    They  are  placed  below  the  belfry  at  the  west  end  of  the  church. 

The  chancel  was  repaired  in  1781,  by  the  first  Duke  of  Northumberland,  and  mav 
be  justly  styled  superb.    The  ceiling  is  of  fine  plaster^work,  most  beautifully  mould- 


ALNWICK  ?4J»^SH.        .  MO 

• 

ed ;  the  middle  mie  is  of  elegant  Gpthip  tpellisi-work ;  and  th^  pews  and  %he  a^tw  ^ 
covered  with  crimson  velvet,  richly  ed^ed  with  gpld  lace^  On  the  front  of  the  altw 
U  a  glory  with  the  letters  I.  H.  S,-  ana  the  cross  above,  in  the  centre,  wrought  with 
gold,  and  set  with  stones ;  which,  with  a  set  of  silver  plate  for  the  communion  ser* 
vice,  wejre  a  gift  of  the  first  Dulce  of  J^orthumberland.  The  walls  are  hung  with 
hatdiments/ banners,  &c.  that  were  put  up  on  the  demise  of  the  first  and  second 
Dukeq  of  Northumberland. 

The  interior  of  the  church  was  lately  repaired  and  altered,  the  old  galleries  taken 
down,  a  new  one  copstructed,  and  the  whole  new  seated  in  a  neat  and  tasteful  man^ 
ner.  These  improvements  cost  £2189,  8*.  lOjrf.  The  Duke  of  Northumberland 
gf^ve  £300 ;  the  seats  in  the  galleiy  sold  for  £1018,  8*.  Id. ;  and  the  remainder  wft» 
^raised  by  sl  parochial  assessment.    The  church  wiU  now  contain  about  1200  persoj^sK 

ThjB  burialr^ound,  adjoining  the  church,  is  crowded  with  the  mansions  of  mortdOlty, 
The  oldest  epitaph  now  discernible  is  on  "  Edward  Ahiwicke,  who  departed  February 
the  12th,  1597."  H^e  is  also  a  tomb-stone  to  the  memcxy  of  thiU;  able  and  ingeTUous 
mathematician,  Mr,  William  Wilkin^  yrho  died  January  Ifitb,  1777,  in  the  ajst  year 
of  his  aga    Few  of  the  other  monumental  ins^ptions  merit  peeujiar  notice. 

The  diurdb  is  apiHv>priated  to  the  priory  of  Alnwick.  The  livinff  is  a  curacy  no^ 
in  charge,  paying  no  first-fruits  or  tenths,  and  is  in  the  gift  of  the  bishop  of  Durhatp, 
Its  cerUfi^  value  is  £12,  but  it?  real  v4ue  is  variaJbile..  Jt  ^las  been  aqgmented  by 
the  following  sums : — ^In  1718,  a  subscription,  £200 ;  Queew  -4nne*s  Bounty,  £200 ; 
at  Michaelmas,  1812,  Parliamentary  Gi»nts  and  Que^n  Anne's  Bounty,  £60C|:  at 
Michaelmas,  1814,  Benefaction  of  the  liord  Bishop  of  Diirham,  £200:  Ditto  bv 
Lord  Crewe's  Trustees,  £200;  Queen  Anna's  Bounty,  £600:  at  Mipbaeln^  I3I9, 
Parliamentary  Grants  and  Queen  Anne's  Bounty,  £  6OO.  A  house  and  garden  were 
bequeathed  by  Mr.  Mark  Foster,  a  merchant-  of  Alnwiejci  for  the  augmentation  of 
the  curacy.* 

The  Roman  CiMalic  Chapel  stands  ifi  ^^(a^i^^tft  apd  belo^^ed  to  the  society  of 
Jesuits.  It  has  been  altered  and  enlarged  s^t  difllerent  times,  and  is  now  a  very  neat 
and  handsome  place  of  worship.  The  Preshyterm^  Meefing-hause,  near  the  head  of 
Pottergate-street,  was  rebuilt  m  1780 ;.  h\^t  fiie  co»g:egation  was  established  before 
the  revolution  in  1^6^,  hysome  persons  who,  accor^n^  to  tradition,  fled  from  the 
persecutions  in  Ireland. '  The  Sion  Meeting-house  stands  in  the  Willow  Walk.  This 
elegant  and  commodipus  structure  was  erected  in  1815  by  the  congregation,  which 
has  existed  since  the  year  1731,  and  held  their  meetings  in  a  house  m  Bond^te« 
street  A  neat  and  opiivenient  meetinghouse  was  erect^  in  1804,  in  the  Green^at, 
where  the  united  members  of  the  A^soctate  Church  assemble.  There  is  a  small  libr^ 
in  the  vesticy,  containing,  about  350  volumes.  The  Methodist  Chapel  stands  at  the 
foot  of  Clayport-street.    It  was  erected  in  1786 ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  gradual 

*  A  dHijpd,  <kdicated  to  St.  Tiwoas,  fomeiiy  i^90cl  ttthe  head  of  Ae  Howl-lane^  near  Clayp(«t  Bonk. 
AH  tracai  of  A^  chapel  are  now  Mit^nt^;  but  tbejiimoundh^  fidds  are  ftiU  called  "  St.  Th<v9aa'a  Chap4 
l^mds/'  and  nve  axempt  from  iHhes.  A  few  of  die  oldaat  uihaliitaQta  of  Alawiek  remraaber  when  the  aide- 
ynXk  4nd  gabka  wftp  at«idiiig;  and  abo  of  thor  paiBBta  ralfting  the  eircnmrtawog  of  having  aeen  people 
buried  in  the  old  cemetery. 


446  COQUETDALE  WARD.— E,  D. 

decay  of  the  society,  the  lower  story  has  been  separated  and  converted  to  other  pur- 
poses. Bethel  Chapely  in  the  Willow^  Walk,  is  a  neat  small  place  of  worship,  belong, 
mg  to  the  Methodists  of  the  New  Connexion.  There  is  a  small  library  attached  to 
this  chapel.  The  Unitarians  meet  in  Eheneter  Chapel^  a  plain  substantial  building, 
near  the  Correction-house.  It  has  an  organ  and  a  small  ubrary,  and  was  opened  in 
February,  1817. 

There  are  four  schools,  called  Borough  Schools.  The  Grammar  School  is  endowed 
principally  by  the  com  tolls,  granted  in  1649  by  Algernon,  Earl  of  Northumberland, 
and  £4  per  annum  paid  by  his  majesty's  receiver-general.  The  borough  also  gives 
£  10  annually ;  besides  which,  the  master  has  a  house  and  garden,  and  the  privilege 
of  admitting  pupils  on  his  own  account.  The  JEnglish  School  was  established  m 
ITdO,  for  the  purpose  of  teaching  the  English  language,  writing,  and  the  elements  of  the 
mathematics.  The  master,  who  is  allowed  an  assistant,  has  an  annual  salary  of  £  lOQ. 
The  school-house  in  Clayport^street,  with  a  garden  and  a  yearly  sklary  of  £10  for  the 
master,  was  bequeathed  by  Mr.  Mark  Forster.  The  interest  of  £  50,  left  by  Captain 
Benjamin  Barton  in  1731,  is  also  paid  to  the  master.  This  school  is  considered  as  a 
preparatory  one  to  the  others.  The  Girls'  School^  for  teaching  80  girls  reading,  knit- 
ting, and  sewing,  was  established  by  the  borough  in  1807-  The  mistress's  yearly 
sal^  is  £S4. 

The  late  Duke  of  Northumberland,  on  the  day  which  completed  the  half  century 
of  our  late  sovereign's  reign,  commissioned  his  son.  Earl  Percy  (the  present  duke),  to 
lay  the  foundation  of  a  school,  which  is  conducted  according  to  the  new  system^  It 
is  in  the  Green  Bat,  and  is  in  length,  54  feet,  and  in  breadth  82  feet.  The  following 
inscription  is  cut  on  a  large  stone  in  the  front : — 

FOR  THE  EDUCATION  OF  «K)  POOR  B0Y9, 

This  School  w9B  erected  and  founded 

BY  HUGH  DUKE  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND, 

On  the  25th  Day  of  October,  1810 ; 

In  Commemoradon  of  our  Sovereign 

GEORGE  THE  THIRD 

Having  pn  that  Day  completed  the  50th  Year  of  his  Reign. 

And  opened  12th  August,  1811, 

Beipg  the  Birtb-day  of  bis  Royal  Highness  the  f  rince  Regent. 

>  >• 

The  present  Duchess  of  Northumberland  has  also  established  a  school  for  teaching 
50  girls  reading,  needle-work,  and  other  accomplishmeilts.  The  scholars  are  uni- 
formly clothed.  None  but  children  whose  parents  belong  to  the  established  church 
are  admitted  into  this  establishment.  There  are  fifteen  other  day-schools  in  this 
town,  in  which  548  children  receive  instruction.  There  is,  besides,  a  Sunday-school 
belonging  to  the  Zion  meeting-house,  one  belonging  to  the  Green  Bat  meeting-house, 
and  one  conducted  by  the  \^!^sleyan  Methodists,  which  schools  are  now  attended  by 
415  children.  Besides  the  many  reputable  private  schools  for  both  sexes  alluded  to, 
there  is  a  boardingi^chool  for  boys ;  also  a  boarding-school  for  instructing  young  ladies 
in  the  useful  and  ornamental  branches  of  female  education, 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  441 

Alnwick  is  privileged  to  hold  five  general  fairs  in  the  year.  The  first,  called  Palm 
fair,  a  week  before  Easter,  is  not  now  observed.  The  second,  called  St.  Philip  and 
St  James'  fair,  held  on  the  12th  of  May ;  a  large  show  of  both  fat  and  lean  cattle,  a 
hiring  of  servants,  &c.  The  third,  on  the  last  Monday  in  July,  few  various  kinds  of 
cattile,  &c.  The  fourth,  called  Michaelmas  fair,  held  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  October, 
for  both  fat  and  lean  cattle,  horses,  &c.  The  fifth,  called  St.  Lucy  fair,  on  the  24th 
of  December,  now  principally  for  poultry  and  provisions.  It  was  formerly  the  gene- 
ral hiring  for  shepherds,  and  hinds  or  cottagers,  or  double  servants,  as  they  are  com* 
monly  (^ed;  but  this  is  now  held  on  the  first  Saturday  in  March.  In  the  vear 
1S09,  a  number  of  the  neighbouring  farmers  attempted  to  remove  this  hiring  from 
March  to  April,  but  without  success.  . 

There  is  an  ancient  custom  retained  here  on  the  proclamation  of  the  fair  in  July. 
On  the  Sunday  evening  preceding  the  fair,  the  representatives  of  the  adjacent  town- 
ships that  owe'  suit  and  service  to  his  grace  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  and  the 
constables  of  Alnwick  with  several  of  the  freeholders  and  tradesmen,  attend  at  the 
eastle,  where  they  are  freely  regaled.  The  steward  of  the  court  and  the  bailiff,  with 
their  attendants,  then  proceed  from  the  castle  to  the  cross  in  the  market-place,  where 
the  bailiff  proclaims  the  fair  in  the  name  of  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Northumber- 
land, and  calls  over  the  names  of  the  several  townships  that  owe  suit  and  service,  viz. 
the  townships  of  Chatton  and  ChiUingham,  four  men;  Coldmarton  and  Fowbury, 
fom*  men ;  Hetton  and  Hezelrigge,  four  men ;  Fawdon  and  Clinch,  four  men :  Aln- 
ham  and  Alnham-moor,  two  men ;  Tugall  and  Swinhoe,  two  men ;  Long  Houghton 
and  Den  wick,  four  men;  Lesbury  and  Bilton,  two  men;  Lyham  and  Lyham  Hall, 
one  man ;  with  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  borough  of  Alnwick.  The  represen- 
tatives who  attend  for  the  several  townships  in  service  are  obliged  to  keep  watch  at 
difierent  parts  of  the  town  the  night  before  the  fair,  which  has  been  a  custom  for  time 
immemorial.  On  the  fair-day,  the  tenants  of  the  Duke  within  the  barony  of  Aln- 
wick attend  at  the  castle,  when  the  steward  and  bailiff  proceed  from  thence  to  the 
market,  and  proclaim  the  fair  as  befora  They  then  go  to  Clajrport-street,  where  the 
fair  is  again  proclaimed,  and  from  thence  to  the  castle.  The  above  township;^  by 
their  attendance,  are  exempt  from  paying  tc^  in  the  borough  for  twelve  months ;  but 
if  they  do  not  attend,  they  must  pay  the  safne  till  the  next  year.  This  custom  is  the 
most  perfect  remains  of  watch  and  ward  that  is  preserved  in  any  part  of  the  county. 

The  weekly  market  is  held  on  the  Saturday,  and  is  a  large  market  for  com  and 
provisions  of  various  kinds,  the  adjoining  country  being  very  fertile.  The  com  is 
mostly  sold  by  sample,  and  is  sent  prindp&lly  to  LiOn£>n.  There  was  formerly  a 
kind  of  high  market  of  fair  at  Alnwick  once  a  fortnight,  for  the  sale  of  black  cattle 
and  sheep ;  but  this  has  entirely  fallen  into  disuse.  The  butcher-market  is  held  in 
front  ol  the  shambles,  and  few  places  ave  better  supplied  with  meat,  which  is  of  ex* 
(^client  quality,  ec^ecially  veal,  -  The  butchers  are  particularly  dean.  According  to 
the  returns  of  the  inspector  of  raw  hides,  for  the  six  years  ending  1821,  the  average 
number  of  animals  annually  slaughtered  and  brought  to  market  is  as  follows :— 55S 
black  cattle,  4973  sheep  and  lambs,  527  calves,  be8i4^  a  large  number  of  swine  and 
peveral  goais,  ,  ,. 

VOL,  X,  5  T 


442  COQUETDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

Alnwiek  has  thcf  advantage  of  0116  of  the  best  aikd  cheat>est  fitb^markets  in  the 
kmgdom.  It  is  held  near  me  front  of  the  Town-halt,  and  reoeiTes  a  t^ular  1^ 
plentiful  supply  from  Newton>  Craster,  Boomer,  Alemouth,  and  the  neinibouring 
fisheries.  The  poultry,  egg,  and  butter  markets,  ate  held  on  the  9atur£ty,  at  the 
west  efid  of  the  shambles,  l^otatoes  and  kitchen  vegetables  and  fruits  are  also  exposed 
to  sale  in  sufficient  quantities. 

No  manufactures  of  any  extent  ot  iiiiportance  have  been  established  in  Alnwidc, 
and  its  inland  situation  motds  few  faciUties  to  trade.  Being  at  ah  inconvenient  ins- 
tance from  any  tolerably  ^ood  harbour,  it  derives  its  consequence  only  frotn  the  fine 
productive  country  by  which  it  is  surtounded.  Com,  pork,  and  eggs,  are  the  diie^ 
articles  of  commerce.  Pork  and  eggs,  which  are  a  lucrative  brandi  ot  trade,  are 
lo^oiight  frtim  taifous  puts  (>f  the  surrounding  district^  and  shipped  to  London.  The 
tanning  business  and  leatiher-^ressing  are  pursued  with  spirit,  and  skinlieries  are  eitr- 
ried  on  with  considerable  success.  There  are  four  Ixpeweries  conducted  on  a  tolerably 
large  scale ;  and  bricks  and  tiles  are  manufactured.  The  tiianufactuies  being  but  of 
lithited  extent,  the  principal  prodiice  is  confined  to  the  consumption  of  the  immediate 
ndghbourhood.  ' 

The  professional  tod  mercant9.e  part  of  the  community  in  this  town  are  men  of 
the  highest  respectability,  Some  of  whom,  by  a  eouiiste  of  honest  industry  and  frugality, 
have  accumulated  considerable  fortunes.  Indeed,  it  is  a  oommdn  obBervation  with 
commercial  travellers,  that  their  bills  are  better  honoured  in  Aln^ck  than  m  any 
other  town  in  the  kingdom.  The  shops  are  generally  well  wovided  with  a  variety  of 
goods,  and  display  an  appearance  of  neatness  and  elecance.  There  being  no  establisned 
banking-houses  in  the  town,  all  the  business  at  this  description  is  transacted  by  agency. 
This  town  affords  several  commodious  inns,  and,  bebig  situate  on  the  post^road,  main- 
tains  an  intercourse  with  other  places  by  regular  mail  and  stage  coages.  The  princi- 
pal inn  is  the  White  Swan,  at  which  the  mail  and  Union  coaches  stop,  and  all  the 
posti}ig  on  the  great  north  toad.  There  are  three  other  inns,  much  frequented  by 
commercial  travelers,  vi:9.  the  Kadt  Swan,  where  the  Northumberiand  coach  stops ; 
the  Star ;  and  the  Angel.     There  are  also  about  SO  public  houses.* 

The  DUpetuary  was  established  in  the  year  1815,  principally  through  the  ^dent 
eicertions  of  Wilham  Bunnell,  Esq.  of  Brbompark.  It  stands  on  an  airy  and  pleasant 
elevation,  near  Pottergate  Tower.  The  first  floor  contains  the  medidne  room,  the 
surgical  ward,  the  committee  room,  and  a  kitchen^  with  a  lajhge  cellar  underneath  the 
whole.  The  second  floor  contains  two  wards,  one  for  each  sex,  and  a  fever  ward,  witii 
an  apartment  for  the  matron  ajid  chambers  for  the  nurses.  The  medical  department 
€3on8ist8  of  two  physidans,  two  surgeons,  imd  an  apothecary .  Upwards  of  SOO  ^tiehts 
aire  6n  an  aVet-age  admitted ;  and  at  Midbadmas,  1880,  the  inmtudon  Was  in  posses- 
sion of  £2736, 8^.  3^.  exdusive  of  the  building  of  the  Dbpensary  and  its  appendiages. 
A  Satings  Bank  was  estabiished  here  in  December,  1816.  The  deposits  now  ex^ed 
£8000. 

r  • 

*  There  are  in  Alnwick  ten  wine  and  spirit  mercfaanta,  nine  linen  and  woollen  drapers,  dghteen  grocers 
and  tea-dealers,  twelve  master  boot  and  shoe  makers,  five  master  tailors^  and  seven  attorneys.  From  this  some 
idea  may  b^formed  of  the  trade  of  the  town. 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  443. 

The  Subscription  Library  is  situated  in  Fibnkle-street,  aiid  ivto  institute  about  the 

year  1783.    Tne  books  it  contains  are  the  joint  property  of  the  established  membere. 

A  payment  of  four  guineas,  and  a  half-yearly^  subscription  of  fiv^  shillings,  entitle  a 

person  to  beocmie  a  proprietor,  and  to  aiare  in  Ifae  management  of  the  library.    A 

proprietor  has  the  liberty  to  sdl,  transfer,  or  assi^  his  share ;  and  also  the  power  to 

recommend  periodical  tewiers.    The  library  at  this  time  contains  about  2000  volumes, 

and  is  under  the  management  of  a  committee  elected  annually.    Attendance  is  given 

at  the  library  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday.  ' 

The  town  is  well  provided  with  water  from  the  diflferait  pants  and  pumps,  which 

kte  ten  in  number,  eight  of  which  belong  to  the  borough,  and  two  in  ]w)ndgate  to  has 

Grace  the  Duke  of  Northumberland.    There  are  also  two  pumps  in  Canongate,  be*^ 

longmg  to  the  township.    The  high  and  the  low  pants  are  the  prindpaL    St.  Michael's, 

or  we  high  pant,  standi  near  the  west  end  of  the  shambles,  and  is  wdll  supplied  with 

water.    It  is  a  beautif u)  structure,  and  the  top  of  it  is  ornamented  with  a  represents* 

tion  of  St.  Michael  and  the  Dragon,  elegantly  cut  in  stone.    It  was  erectea  by  the 

borough  in  1765.    The  low  pant  stands  at  the  foot  of  Pottergate.    It  is  an  octi^on 

building  with  a  very  large  cistern,  and  was  erected  by  the  borough  in  1790.    The 

town  is  well  suj^lied  with  coals  from  Shilbottle,  Newton,  and  other  collieries  in  the 

neighbourhood.    The  Shilbottle  coals  are  conveyed  on  a  waggon*way  from  the  coU 

hety  to  a  staith  at  the  end  of  the  town. 

The  Po&t  or  Work-house  stands  in  a  healthy  sitnation  at  the  north  side  of  the 
Green  Bat.  It  is  53  feet  in  length,  by  S9  feet  in  breadth ;  and  the  first  and  the  fse* 
cond  story  are  each  9  feet  high,  and  the  attic  story  7  feet.  The  ground  floor  contains 
a  room  in  which  the  parish  d9Bicers  transact  business,  a  wiaiting  room,  a  kitdien,  and 
two  sitting  rooms  for  the  poor,  and  a  ward-room.  On  the  second  floor  are  ax  bed* 
rooms,  an  hospital,  and  a  dead-house;  and  in  the  attic  story  are  the  work-brooms. 
Behind  the  house  is  a  yard  and  garden,  also  a  wash-house,  cooking-house,  and  other 
conveniences.  In  the  old  house  adjoining  there  are  convenient  rooms  for  the  keeper, 
a  dining-^room,  two  cells  for  lunatics,  a  porter^s  lodge,  and  several  small  apartments^ 
one  of  which  is  appropriated  for  teaching  the  children  tiiat  are  in  tiie  house,  lire 
whole  is  walled  in ;  and  the  gate,  which  fronts  the  south,  is  locked  in  at  a  stated  hour 
by  the  keeper.  The  poor  are  employed  in  teazing  oakum,  spinning,  &ec.  and  the 
whole  is  unaer  the  management  of  the  parish  officers.  TUs  wotk-house  was  erected 
in  1810.* 

The  corporation  or  borough  of  Alnwick  having  no  royal  charter  granting  it  privi^ 
leges  or  defining  its  government,  and  the  earliest  records  of  its  transactions  being 
eimer  lost  or  destir^^,  its  ori^nal  constitution  and  primitive  history  are  involved  in 
great  obscurity.  Though  a  very  ancient,  it  is  not  a  parliamentary  borough.  It  has 
neea  supposed,  that  in  former  times  it  sent  burgeiseis  to  pariiament,  and  that  this  {nri^ 

•  In  1745,  the  poor-rate  of  this  parish  amounted  to  ^l  lOs.  gji,;  in  1787,  to  858/.  3*.  prf.;  in  1796,  to 
1263^  12^.;  in  1803,  to  $28811  19^.  ^d.;  in  1813^  to  SQgZl  1&.  lid.;  in  1818,  to  4884/.  iQs.  Sd.;  and  in 
1820,  to  3238/.  9f.  8i^ 

Oat  of  ^  paupers  in  this  poor-house  in  1814,  there  were  20  whose  united  ages  amounted  to  1523  years, 
averaging  upwards  of  76  years  each. 


444  COQUETDALE  WARD—E.  D. 

vilege  has  been  lost  hj  disuse  *  The  freemai  are  a  body  oori>orate  by  i>Te8cription, 
by  the  name  of  the  **  Burgesses  of  Ahiwick.'"  This  is  the  original  prescriptive  title, 
as  set  forth  in  all  the  early  charters  and  documents ;  but  it  has  been  transformed,  aad 
perhaps  subverted,  in  accommodation  to  the  exclusive  system  of  self-dection  vid 
secret  management  that  has  since  been  introduced. 

The  freemen  originally  consisted  of  several  companies  or  fraternities ;  but  at  this 
time  there  are  only  ten,  viz.  the  Cordwainers  or  Shoemakers,  the  Skinners  and 
Glovers,  the  Merchants,  the  Tanners,  the  Weavers,  the  Blacksmiths,  the  Butchers, 
the  Joiners,  the  Tailors,  and  the  Coopers.  Each  company  or  trade  is  ^vemed  by  an 
alderman,  wardens,  and  stewards,  appointed  annually,  and  has  peouhar  by-laws  and 
orders  for  its  oMrn  recnilation. 

No  person  can  be  fully  admitted  to  the  freedom  and  privileges  of  this  boroueh  but 
by  patrimony  or  by  servitude ;  that  is,  by  being  the  son  of  a  freeman,  or  having 
served  an  apprenticeship  of  seven  years  to  a  freeman.  The  ceremony  of  initiaticHi  to 
the  freedom  is  truly  singular  and  ridiculous.  The  persons  that  are  to  be  made  free^ 
or  to  go  through  the  weU^  as  it  is  aptly  catted,  attaid  at  a  public  meeting  in  the  Town** 
hall,  on  the  evening  preceding  St.  Mark's  day ;  and  naving  previous^  been  ad^ 
mitted  members  or  made  free  of  their  respective  companies,  then:  qualification  and 
right  to  the  freedom  of  the  borough  are  now  ascertained.  This  point  being  settled, 
they  take  the  prescribed  oath,  and  pay  certain  fees  of  admission,  when  their  names 
are  enrolled  in  the  borough  books.  The  young  freemen  then  leave  the  hall,  and  ac- 
companied by  the  moorgrieves,  the  herd,  and  the  town's  waits  with  music,  parade 
the  streets,  each  candidate  furnishing  a  bowl  of  punch  at  whatever  public  house  he 
chooses  to  select.  After  this  they  separate  for  the  evening,  to  ruminate  on  the  inu 
portant  business  of  the  following  day. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  St.  Mark's  day  (April  25th),  the  houses  of  the  new  frees, 
men  are  distinguished  by  a  holly  tree  j^lanted  before  eadi  door^  as  a  signal  for  their 
friends  to.  assemble  and  make  merry  with  them.  About  eight  o'clock,  Uie  ehevaUers, 
being  mounted  on  horseback  and  armed  with  swords,  assemble  in  the  market-phce, 
where  they  are  j(»ned  by  the  chamberlains  and  the  bailiff  of  his  grace  the  Duke  of 
Northiimberiand,  attended  by  two  men  armed  with  halberds.  The  youn^  freemen 
being  arranged  in  order,  with  music  playing  before  them,  and  accompanied  by  a  nu« 
merous  eavakade,  proceed  under  the  gui^necvof  the  moprgrieve  thro;i:^  a  part  of 
their  extensive  domains,  till  they  reach  the  ceremonial  well,  where  their  friends  await 
their  arrival,  provided  with  refreshments.  The  well  Is  situate  near  a  place  called 
Freemen  Hill,  and  about  four  miles  south-west  of  the  town.  It  is  a  dirty  stagnant 
pool,  nearly  tw^ity  yarda  m  length,  and  is  suffered  to  run  out  during  the  rest  of  the 

Jrear ;  but  those  who  are  entrusted  with  this  matter  take  special  care  that  it  shall  iiot 
ose  any  of  its  depth  or  size  ^t  the  approfich  of  St.  Mark's  day :  and  while  they  are 
preparing  the  well  for  the  ceremonial  plunge,  they  use  various  artful  contrivances, 
making  holes  and  dikes,  and  fixing  straw  ropes  at  the  bottom,  tp  entrap  the  heedless 
and  unsuspecting  novices  Into  a  miry  plight.  The  young  freemen,  having  arrived  at 
the  well,  immediately  prepare  for  immersion ;  and  after  divesting  t'hemselves  of  th^ijc^ 

^  Brown  Witiift's  Nptitia  Parlifmientoii^  pref.  p.  Kxxvi^ 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  445 

proper  garmaits^  they  are  soon  equipped  in  a  white  dress  and  a  cap  ornamented  with 
ribhons.  The  sons  of  the  oldest  freemen  have  the  honour  of  taking  the  first  lean,  and 
the  whole  being  arranged,  when  the  signal  is  given,  they  pl^i^^  hrto  the  well,  and 
scramble  through  the  noisome  pool  with  great  labour  and  difficulty.  After  being 
well  drenched  and  half  suffocated  in  mud,  they  are  assisted  out  of  the  puddle  at  the 
further  end  in  a  rueful  condition,  and  afford  a  truly  ludicrous  and  amusing  scene  to 
the  spectators.  After  this  aquatic  feat,  they  speedily  resume  their  former  dresses, 
and  taking  a  dram  to  dissipate  the  vapours  arising  from  their  legalized  plunge;  they 
remount  their  horses  and  proceed  to  perambulate  Uie  remainder  of  their  large  common, 
of  which  they  are  become  free  by  this  achievement.  In  passing  the  open  part  of  the 
common,  the  young  freemen  are  obliged  to  alight  at  intervals,  and  place  a  stone  on  a 
cairn  as  a  mark  of  their  boundary,  tiU  they  come  near  a  high  hill  called  the  T winlaw 
or  Townlaw  Cairns,  when  they  set  off  at  full  speed,  and  contest  the  honour  of  arriv* 
in^  first  at  this  hill,  where  the  names  of  the  freeholders  of  Alnwick  are  called  over. 
When  arrived  about  two  miles  from  the  town,  they  generally  arrange  themselves  in 
order,  and  to  prove  their  equestrian  abilities,  set  oft  with  great  speed  and  spirit  over 
bogs,  ditches,  whins,  rocks,  and  rugged  declivities,  till  tiiey  arrive  at  Ilottenrow 
Tower  on  the  confines  of  the  town;  the  foremost  claiming  the  honour  of  what  is 
termed  ^^  winning  the  boundaries,''  and  of  being  entitled  to  the  temporary  triumphs 
of  the  day.  Having  completed  this  circuit,  the  young  freemen,  with  sword  in  hand, 
enter  the  town  in  triumph,  preceded  by  music,  and  accompanied  by  a  large  concourse 
of  people  in  carriages,  on  horseback,  and  on  foot,  who  have  been  witnessing  the  lu- 
dicrous scene.  Having  paraded  the  streets,  they  enter  the  castle,  where  they  are 
liberally  regaled,  and  £ink  the  health  of  the  lord  and  lady  of  the  manor.  The  new- 
created  burgesses  then  proceed  in  a  body  to  their  respective  houses,  and,  around  the 
holly  tree,  mink  a  friendly  glass  vdth  each  other.  After  this  they  adjourn  to  the 
market-place,  where  they  dose  the  ceremony  over  an  enlivening  bowl  of  pundh. 
They  then  retire  to  their  respective  abodes,  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  social  festivity, 
which  prevails  to  the  end  of  the  following  day. 

There  is  a  current  traditionary  opinion  that  this  borough  was  incorporated  by  king 
John,  and.  that  he  gave  Haydon  Forest  or  Alnwick  Moor  to  the  burgesses.  But  this 
is,  at  least  in  part,  unfoimded;  for  the  burgesses  were  incorporated  long  before 
his  time:  and  in  the  grant  of  the  moor  made  to  them  by  William  de  Vescy  in 
the  reign  of  Henry  II.  and  which  was  probably  executed  about  half  a  century  before 
John's  reign,  the  burgi^sses  are  recognized  as  ap  established  corporation.^    Any  states 

*  The  strange  ceiremony  of  iiiitiation  is,  however^  not  unlike  the  contrivance  of  a  stupid  and  capridous  tyrant 
King  John;i  it  is  said^  being  mired^  while  hunting>  in  the  pool  now  called  the  Freeman^s  Well,  the  enraged  mo« 
parch  decreed  that  no  burgess  should  enter  upon  his  freedom  until  he  had  encountered  a  similar  danger.  Thia 
does  not  imply  that  he  granted  Haydon  Forest  to  the  burgesses ;  nor  is  it  unlike  the  other  freaks  of  this 
madman.  A  patriotic  monk  relatesj,  that,  ''King  John,  during  his  discussion  with  the  barons^  sent  two 
knights  and  a  clergyman  to  the  Midiomedan  emperor  of  Spain  and  Africa,  offering  to  yield  his  kingdom  to 
be  tributary  to  him,  and  to  change  hb  rehgion  to  that  of  the  Koran.  When  the  Saracen  monarch  heard  the 
message^  he  exdaimed  that  Jdm  was  a  delirious,  dotard,  and  indignantly  ordered  the  mesaengem  to  retire."-^ 
HaHhenf  Paw,  p.  845. 

TOL,  I,  5  U 


446  COQUETDALE  WAR1).-.E.  D. 

ment  how  long  it  existed  before  this  time  cm  only  be  ooi^eetunL  The  seal  ef  the 
borough  displays  great  antiquity.  The  arms  are  a  rude  representation  of  St  Michael 
and  the  Dragon ;  and  from  the  inscription,  ^'  s:  comyne  bvrgi  dk  Ai^K^wtKE,"  or. 
Common  Sesu  of  the  Burgesses  of  Alnwick,  round  the  rim,  being  Anglo^SaxcMi  <dia- 
racters,  and  the  similarity  of  the  borou^  to  Saxon  institution,  thefe  is  reason  to  sup- 
pose that  Abiwick  was  incorporated  m  the  time  of  ^  the  Saxons.  The  most  ancient 
existing  records  relating  to  the  borough  are  three  charters  or  grants  of  Haydon  or 
Alnwick  Moor  by  the  Liords  de  V escy  '*  to  the  Burgesses  of  Alnwidc"  The  first 
^purit  is  by  William  de  Vescy,  and  is  without  date,  but  was  probably  made  some 
tnne  between  the  years  1167  and  1185,  during  the  reign  of  Henry  II.  This  grant 
was  afterwards  oonnrmed  by  a  charter  of  Wilham  de  V  escy,  son  and  heir  of  Lord 
Eustace  de  Vescy,  and  grandson  of  the  former.  These  charters  were  again  eotifirmed 
to  the  buraeases,  with  new  and  enlarged  pjivileges,  and  a  grant  oi  Hesleyside,  by  a 
diarter  of  William  de  Vescy,  brother  and  heir  of  John  de  Vescy,  the  son  of  the  second 
grantor.     It  bears  date  the  Sunday  after  Michaefanas-day,  1890. 

Though  it  does  not  appear  that  the  soil,  mines,  &c.  of  AJhwidk  Moor,  were  con* 
Tsyed  to  the  burgesses  by  the  foregmng  grants,  yet,  during  a  long  period^  the  freemen 
used  and  enjoyed  the  taoor  as  their  own  freehold  estate,  and  exerdsed  various  acts  of 
ownership  therein,  inclosing  and  cultivating  different  parts  of  it,  letting  the  pasturage, 
and  working  and  using  the  coal-mines,  quarries,  &c.  as  their  own  property.  These 
privileges  were  enjoyed  till  the  year  1702,  when  the  soil,  royalties,  and  mmes,  were 
recovered  from  the  freemen  by  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Northumberland,  the  lord 
and  lady  of  the  manor.  In  1756,  the  Earl  and  Countess  exhibited  a  bill  in  the  High 
Court  of  Chancery  against  the  chamberlains  and  four-and-twenty,  and  a  lawsuit  was 
carried  on  till  March  6,  1762,  when  the  litigation  was  closed,  and  an  agreement  en* 
tered  into  between  the  parties ;  the  prindpu  articles  of  which  are  eomprixed  in  the 
following  account  of  the  rights,  liberties,  and  privileges  of  the  borough : — 

The  freemen  are  entitled  to  common  of  pasture  on  Alnwick  moor,  upon  payment 
of  the  rent  of*  two  shillings  per  annum  for  the  liberty  of  depasturing  their  cattle 
thereon  in  the  fence  month :  and  the  freemen,  and  freemen's  widows,  have  a  tight  to 
dig  as  well  as  cut  peats,  fiirzes,  turves,  and  brudbes  grown  thereon,  f»  their  own  use: 
and  tlie  lord  of  the  manor  and  borough  has  no  right  to  grant  the  herbage  or  vesture 
of  the  moor  to  their  tenants  holding  by  burgage-tenure,  or  any  other  person  or  per«- 
sons  whatsoever.  The  chamberlains^  common-council,  or  freemen,  have  a  right  to  lay 
pipes  for  conve3ring  water  to  the  pants,  wells,  and  springs,  from  AJnwidc  Moor  to  tihie 
town,  and  through  the  streets  in  the  town,  and  all  the  void^rounds  within  the  manor ; 
and,  for  that  purpose,  to  break  the  soil  ci  the  streets  and  voidgrounds.  No  freeholder, 
unless  he  be  also  a  freeman,  has  any  ri^ht  or  privil^e  whatever  in  Alnwick  Moor : 
and  all  freemen,  and  freemen's  widows,  are  exemptea  from  all  toll  and  stallage  as  well 
on  the  market-days  and  fair-days,  as  on  other  days,  according  to  their  immemorial 
right  and  privilege.  The  soil  and  royalties  in  Alnwick  Moor,  and  in  the  indosures 
made  therefram>  are  vested  in  the  l<»ra  of  the  manor,  who  granta  to  the  corporation  a 
lease  of  the  coi^mines,  limestone^  and  fr-eestone  quarries,  for  a  term  of  years,  at  a 
small  annual  r^nt,  subject  to  certain  lestiictions.  "Hi^  freemen  and  thdr  wkIows  have 
liberty  at  all  times  to  get  limestones,  slates,  and  freestones,  in  any  of  the  preset  quar- 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  447 

ri^s,  for  the  use  of  themselves  or  any  other  freemeo,  or  tretmesk^s  widows ;  and  also  in 
such  other  parts  of  Ahiwick  Moor  as  the  lord's  bailiff  of  the  borough  and  the  chain-, 
berlains  for  the  time  being,  or  a  majority  of  them,  shall  think  fit,  without  paying  sa- 
tisfaction. In  like  manner,  they  have  Hbertjr  to  dig  day  and  bum  bricks,  and  to  take 
away  turves,  flags,  whins,  and  wattles ;  and  to  dkr  and  take  away  sand,  gravel,  day, ' 
and  marie,  for  their  own  use.  The  freemen  are  aUowed  to  set  up  tents  or  huts  upon 
Alnwick  Moor,  at  the  horse-races ;  and  the  lord's  bailiff  of  the  borough  and  the  cham- 
beiflains,  or  any  two  or  more  of  them,  have  power  to  give  the  like  liberty  to  non-free^ 
men.  They  have  also  liberty  to  erect  herds'  houses,  and  new  limekilns,  in  sudi  parts 
of  the  moor  as  the  lord's  baiuff  of  the  borough  and  the  chamberlains,  or  a  majority  of 
them,  shall  think  fit,  for  the  conveniency  of  burning  limestones  in  case  (tf  mlure  of 
the  present  quarries.  Reasonable  satisfaction  must  be  made  from  time  to  time  to  the 
corporation,  or  their  lessees,  for  damage  and  spoil  of  ground  by  di^^ing  or  working 
any  mines  or  quarries,  or  erecting  any  buildings  necessary  for  workmg  such  mines, 
or  laying  waggon-ways  or  other  ways,  or  leading  or  carrying  away  coals,  stones,  or 
other  minerals,  within  the  inclosures  made  from  the  moor.  The  wastes  oi  the  town 
belong  to  the  IcMrd  of  the  manor ;  and  the  chamberlains,  common  council,  or  fieemen, 
have  no  right  to  erect  shambles,  or  butchers*  shops;  in  the  Market-plaee  ci  the  town, 
without  licence  ttom  the  lord  6£  tbe  manor. 

Several  large  portions  of  the  moor  or  oomirion  have  at  different  times  been  inclosed, 
and  brought  into  a  state  of  cultivation.  The  Moor-house  Farm,  containing  250  acres, 
and  Had  win's  Close,  14  acres,  were  indosed  in  1698.  The  Herd's  Close,  13  acres,  was 
inclosed  in  1705.  The  Intake  Farm,  42  acres,  was  indosed  in  1710.  The  Freemen 
Hill  Farm,  400  acres,  was  indosed  In  1711.  A  part  of  the  pasture  in  Bondgate  field, 
called  Hesleyside,  was  sold  to  the  Nor&umberland  family  in  1761 ;  and  the  remainder 
was  exchanged  in  1776  for  the  Stanley  Flats,  containing  about  26  acres.  The  Bog 
and  Broadheaps,  containing  about  28  acres,  were  purchased  of  Mr.  Matthew  Alnwick, 
&c.  in  1696.  In  1762,  a  part  of  the  moor  adjoining  the  Intake  was  indosed  and  given 
to  Col.  Forster,  Ksq.  fay  the  foor-and-twenty.  This  was  suffered  to  remain  till 
1772,  when  G.  Grieve,  Esq.  on  the  first  day  of  his  fredage,  broke  down  the  fences 
and  re»united  it  to  the  moor.  The  extent  of  the  lands  bdonging  to  the  borou^  is 
estimated  at  about  8380  acres.  About  2610  acres  of  the  moor  remain  unendosed, 
and  which  has  a  bleak,  dreary,  and  miseraUe  appearance.^ 

The  prindpal  business  of  the  borough  was  oraered  and  conducted  by  the  freemen 
at  their  guild  meetings  until  the  yea^  1712,  after  whichf  officers  unknown  in  former 
times,  and  called  the  chamberlains  and  four-and-twenly,  gradually  extended  their 
power,  until  they  became  a  self-elected  and  irresponsible  body.  About  the  year 
17S2,  this  usurpation  ^ve  rise  to  some  warm  disputes;  and,  in  1818,  thefire^nen 
and  fi'eemen's  widows  filed  a  bill  of  complaint  and  disdosure  in  the  Court  of  Chancery 
against  the  four-and-twenty.  The  freemen  have  contributed  (induding  a  few  dona- 
tions) £700  to  obtain  redress ;  but  more  money  is  wanted  to  bring  the  suit  to  issue. 
The  self-elected  corporation  officers  defend  themselves  with  the  money  that  belongs 
to  their  opponents ! 

The  annual  revenue  of  the  corporation  was  an  arcanum,  known  only  to  the  initiated, 
until  the  smt  now  pending  rendered  a  disclosure  unavoidable.    In  the  year  ending 


448 


COQUETDALE  WAKD—E.  D. 


"f  <i:i^  1 


w  < ;  w  i  t  i 


Nov.  1819,  the  revenue  was  £680;  and  in  1821  it  amounted  to 
expenditure,  omitting  law  expenses,  &c.  is  about  £S50  per  annum. 

Alnwick  being  the  county  town  of  Northumberland,  the  county 
every  month.    AH  persons  in  the  county  may  sue  and  be  sued  in 
not  a  court  of  record,  and  may  hold  pleas  of  debt  or  damages  under 
shillings.     It  may  also  hold  pleas  of  manv  real  actions  and  of  all  ( 
any  amount  W  virtue  of  a  special  writ  called  aJuHiciee.    This  court  is 
jurisdiction  of  the  sheriff,  but  the  judicial  audiority  is  delegated  to  1^ 
under  sheriff.    The  attorneys  plead,  and  the  verdicts  are  returned  qv  a 
freeholders  of  the  countV,  who  may  be  considered  the  real  judges.    V^ 
sions  for  the  county  are  held  at  Alnwick  once  a  year,  about  Midaaelmli 
convenience  of  the  county,  they  are  hdd  once  in  Newcastle,  once  $ii  ' 
once  at  Hexham.    The  members  of  parliament  and  the  coroners 
Northumberland  are  elected  at  Alnwick.     It  is  also  the  head  qu 
umberland  Light  Infantry  Raiment  of  Militia,  the  staff  of  which 
during  the  time  of  peace,  and  the  regiment  assembles  at  it  for 
other  respects,  Alnwick  enjoys  none  of  the  disjdnctionsi  or  privileges  of  ft 
The  county  gaol  is  at  Morpeth,  where  all  the  executions  take  pku:^; 
probably  for  the  convenience  of  the  judges,  are  held  in  Newcastle. 
Northumberland,  as  lord  of  the  manor,  hmds  a  court  leet  and  conrt  baron 
viz,  at  Easter  and  Michaelmas. 

Alnwick  is,  upon  the  whole,  a  very  healthy  town,  and  is  seldom  visi 
considerable  degree*  of  contagious  and  malignant  disorders.    Beihg  near  tl 
the  inhabitants  are  a  mixed  race,  and  provincial  peculiarities  are  rare 
From  the  fashionable  disposition  to  repress  and  discountenance  all  public 
amusements,  the  labouring  classes  are  too  often  allured  into  habits  of  i 
Bull-baiting  is  now  entirely  abandoned,  and  cock-fighting  nearly  so,    Alt! 
are  no  literary  or  scientific  institutions  here,  yet  many  individuab  are  distil 
their  ability  and  attainments,  and  strangers  are  often  struck  with  the  varie 
ter  which  the  inhabitants  exhibit.     It  would  be  improper  to  close  this  arti< 
noticing  how  eminently  the  exertions  of  that  enlightened  and  indefatigable 
Sir  D.  W.  Smith,  Bart,  have  contributed  to  correct  the  relaxed  police  of 
diminish  daring  misdemeanors,  and  repress  the  spirit  of  vexatious  iitigati< 

The  most  remarkable  transactions  that  have  occurred  in  this  ancient  to' 
comprehended  in  the  histor}^  of  the  castle ;  and  the  remains  of  antiquity 
scribed  when  noticing  the  places  where  they  were  founds 


usual 

ddhere 

It  is 

of  forty 

ions  to 

to  die 

ty,  the 

of  the 


for  the 
and 
nmty  of 
North, 
^ed  here 
^nt  In 
town* 
assizes, 
lukeof 
ay^ar, 

ith  any 
Border, 
trifling, 
irts  and 
ication. 
rh  there 
led  for 
eharac* 

I  without 
[istrate, 

lis  town, 

will  be 
bede*» 


Alnwick  Castle,,  the  jprincipal  seat  of  the  Percy  family,  and  one  of  the  grandest 
baronial  residences  in  the  kingdom,  with  its  extensive  and  beautiful  pleasure-grounds, 
forms  the  most  distinguishing  ornament  to  the  vicinity  of  Alnwick.  It  is  situated 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river  Aln,  on  an  elevation  that  gives  great  dignity  to  its  ap* 
pearanee,  and  in  ancient  times  rendered  it  an  impregnable  fortress. 

This  ^fice  stands  in  a  spacious  area,  which,  at  uie  time  of  its  greatest  strength, 
totally  smrounded  it,  defended  by  a  complete  circumvallation  and  a  moat.  At  pre. 
sent  the  front  is  opened  to  the  north-east,  and  the  wall,  havmg  towers  at  propel^  intei;^ 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  449 

vals,  shuts  it  in  on  the  other  quarters;  while  the  walls  and  towers  form  a  noble 
flanking  to  the  principal  structure.  To  the  south-east  the  garden  ground  appears 
prettily  disposed ;  and  to  the  south  and  west  the  town  of  Alnwick  is  seen  spreading 
on  the  back  ground.  But  some  of  those  fine  woodlands  and  lofty  grey  rocks,  whida 
impend  over  the  Abi  above  Alnwick,  are  much  wanted  to  give  rural  and  romantic 
graces  to  such  noble  objects. 

From  the  observations  of  Mr.  Grose,  it  seems  pretty  evident  that  Alnwick  Castle 
owes  its  origin  to  the  Romans.  It  is  believed  to  hav€  been  founded  in  their  time, 
although  no  part  of  the  original  structure  is  now  remaining :  but,  some  years  ago, 
when  part  of  the  dungeon,  or  castle  keep,  was  taken  down  to  be  repaired,  under  tne 
present  walls  were  discovered  the  foundations  of  other  buildings,  which  lay  in  a  dif- 
lerent  direction  from  the  present,  and  some  of  the  stones  appeared  to  have  Roman 
mouldings.  The  dungeon,  or  keep,  of  the  present  castle,  is  conjectured  to  have  been 
founded  m  the  Saxon  times.  The  zigzag  fretwork  round  the  arch  that  leads  into  the 
inner  court  is  evidently  of  Saxon  architecture :  and  yet  this  was  probably  not  the 
most  ancient  entrance ;  for  under  the  flag-tower,  before  that  part  was  taken  down  and 
rebuilt  by  the  first  Duke  of  Northumberland,  was  the  appearance  of  a  gateway  that 
had  been  walled  up,  directly  fronting  the  present  outward  gateway  into  the  town. 

In  the  third  year  of  the  reign  of  Edward  II.  1310,  the  castle  and  barony  of  Aln- 
wick came  into  the  possession  of  the  Lord  Henry  de  Percy,  who  then  began  to  repair 
this  castle ;  and  he  and  his  successors,  afterwards  Earls  of  Northumberland,  perfected 
and  completed  both  this  dtadel  and  its  outworks.  The  two  great  octagon  towers 
which  were  superadded  to  the  old  Saxon  gateway  afore-mentioned,  and  constitute  the 
entrance  into  the  inner  ward,  were  erected  about  the  year  1350,  by  the  second  Lord 
Percy  of  Alnwick.  *  The  date  of  the  erection  of  these  two  towers  is  ascertained  very 
exactly  by  a  series  of  escutcheons  setdptured  upon  them,  which  sufficiently  supply 
the  place  of  an  inscription.  It  is  very  remarkable,  that  although  these  towers  have 
now  stood  since  the /middle  of  the  fourteenth  century,  they  have  neither  received  nor 
wanted  the  least  repair.  The  eseiiicheo^n  are  arranged  in.  the  following  order : — ^The 
shield  of  Tyson,  Vescy,  Clififord,  Percy,  Bokm,  Plantagenet,  Warren,  Arimdel,  Um- 
franville,  Percy  (again),  Neville,  and  FitzrWaltar.  The  eonnexion  of  the^e  ancient 
families  with  this  caslle  will  appear  in  the  following  pages. 

From  the  lapse  of  time,:  and  die  shocks  it  had  sustained  in  ancient  wars,  Alnwick 
Castle  was  become  quite  tiruinv  when,  by  the  death  of  Algernon,  Duke  of  Somerset, 
it  devolved,  together  with  aU  the  estates  of  this  barony,  &c.  to  the  first  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Northumberland.**  He  immediately  begap  to  repair  the  castle,  and,  with 
the  most  consummate  taste  and  judgmant,  ret^torea ;  and  embellished  it  as  much  as 
possible  in  the  true  Groiluc  style ;  so  that.it  uaay  deservedly  be  considered  one  of  the 
noblest  and  most  magnificent  models  of  a.  great  barOnial  cattle.  It  is  rebuilt  on  the 
old  foundation,  and  in  the  Saxi^Urstyle, »  The  architwt  h^^rtrictly  preserved  the 

i,     •  .      •     ^ 

•  An  exact  and  curious  description  of  Alnwick  Cfdstle  wa^  mdde,  about  the  year  1567,  by  George  Ctokaon^ 
surveyor^  and  preserved  amongst  the  evidences  of  Uie  Northumberland  family.  The  transcript  of  this  survey 
was,  by  permission,  fpytn  to-  Mt.  6rdse,  by'  l^hOfnaB'Mitlery' '!0)q. « principal  agent  for  the  Doke  and  Duchess, 
and  clerk  of  the  peace  for  the  county  of  Middlesex. 

vox.  I,  5  X 


450 


COQUETDALE  WARD.—E.  D. 


modes  and  ornaments  of  the  original.  The  battlements  are  crowded  with  effigies,* 
cut  in  stone;  according  to  the  taste  of  the  Normans,  in  whose  time  it  miderwent 
a  principal  reparation.  These  effigies  represent  men  in  the  act  of  defence,  wielding 
such  arms  as  were  then  used.     Some  of  th&n  are  disposed  with  great  propriety.    The 

Siards  of  two  of  the  gateways  are  in  the  attitude  of  casting  down  a  moghty  st<Hie  on 
e  heads  of  assailants.  The  building  i^  of  beautiful  freestone  in  chisdQ^ed  work.  Its 
form  is  singular,  being  composed  of  a  duster  of  semicircular  and  angular  bastions. 

Alnwick  Castle  contains  about  five  acres  of  ground  vrithin  its  outer  walls,  whidi 
are  flanked  with  sixteen  toyrers  and  turrets.  These  now  afford  a  complete  set  of 
offices  to  the  castle,  and  many  of  them  retain  their  original  names,  as  well  as  their 
Mident  use  and  destination.  These  are,  1.  The  Greats  or  Outward  Grate  entrance, 
andently  called  the  Utter  Ward.  2.  The  Gamer  or  Avener  Tower ;  behind  which 
are  stables,  coach-houses,  &c.  in  alV  respects  suitable  to  the  magnitude  and  dignity  of 
this  great  castle.  8.  The  Water  Tower,  containing  the  dstem  or  reservoir  that  sup- 
plies the  castle  and  offices  with  water.  Adjoining  to  this  is  the  laundry,  &c.  4.  The 
Caterer's  Tower ;  adjoining  to  whidi  are  the  kitchens,  and  all  other  conveniences  of 
that  sort.  Behind  the  adjacent  wall  are  concealed  a  complete  set  of  offices  and  apart- 
ments for  most  of  the  prindpal  offica^  and  attendants  in  the  castle ;  together  with  a 
large  hall,  or  dining-room,  to  entertain  the  tenants  at  the  audits ;  with  an  office  for 
the  auditors,  housekeeper's  room;  and  underneath  these,  a  servants'  hall,  with  all 
other  suitable  conveniences.  5.  The  Middle  Wajxl.  6.  The  Auditors'  Towct.  -  7. 
The  Guard  House.  8.  The  East  Garret  9.  The  Recwd's  Tower ;  of  which  the 
lower  story  contains  the  Evidence  Rooms,  gr  great  Repository  of  the  Archives  of  the 
Barony ;  over  it  is  a  circtOar  apartment  designed  and  executed  with  great  taste  and 
beauty  for  a  baiiquetin^room,  being  29  feet  in  diameter,  and  24  feet  6  inches  high. 
10.  Ravine-Tower,  or  Hotspur's  Chair.  Between  this  and  the  Round  Tower  was 
formeriy  a  harge  breach  in  the  walls,  which,  for  time  immemorial,  had  been  called  by 
the  town's  people  the  Bloody  Cktp.  11.  The  Constable's  Tow«;  whidi  r^naiiis 
chiefly  in  its  ancient  state,  as  a  specimen  how  the  castle  itself  was  once  fitted  up.  IS. 
The  Fostem  Tower,  or  «illy-port.  The  upper  apartment  now  contains  old  armour, 
arms,  &c  Th^  lower  stmy' nas  a  small  furnace  and  elaboratory  for  chemic^  <^  other 
experiments.  18.  The  Armourei's  Tower.  14.  The  Falconer^s  Tower.  15.  The 
Abbot's  Tower ;  so  called  dther  from  its  situation  nearest  to  Alnwick  Abbey,  or  from 
its  containing  an  apartment  for  the  abbot  of  that  monastry,  whenever  he  retired  to 
the  castle.    16.  The  West  Garret 

The  castle  properly  consista  of  three  courts  or  diviskms ;  the  entrance  into  which 
was  defended  with  tiiree  strong  massy  gates ;  called  the  Utter  Ward^  the  Middle 
Ward,  and  the  Inner  Ward.  Each  of  these  gates  was  in  a  high  embiattled  tower, 
furnished  with  a  portcullis,  and  the  outward  gate  with  a  draw-bridge  also ;  they  had 
each  of  them  a  porter's  lodge,  and  a  strong  prison,  besides  other  necessary  apartments 
for  the  constable,  bailiff,  and  subordinate  officers.  Under  each  of  the  prisons  was  a 
deep  and  dark  dungeon,  into  whidi  the  more  refractory  prisoners  were  let  down  with 

*  These  were  ezecoted  by  liie  lirte  Mr.  JttMi  MmsQn  nf  Stamfivdhaiii,  and  eagm^  him  upwaid«  of 
twenty  jeax^'^History  tf  Alnwick 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  451 

eords,  and  from  which  there  was  no  exit  but  fbrough  the  trapdoor  in  the  floor  above. 
That  of  the  Inner  Ward  is  still  remaining  in  all  its  (original  horrors. 

The  approach  to  the  oastle  retains,  much  of  the  solemn  grandeur  of  former  limes. 
The  moat  is  drained,  and  the  ceremony  of  letting  down  the  draw-bridge  is  forgot ; 
but  the  walls  which  enclose  the  area  still  wear  me  ancient  countenance  of  strength 
and  defianca  It  is  entered  by  a  machicolated  gate,  defended  by  an  upper  tower ; 
and,  after  passing  a  covered  way,  the  interior  gate  opens  to  the  area.  Tnis  entrance 
is  defended  by  aU  the  devices  used  in  ancient  tunes, — ^iron  studded  gates,  portcullis, 
open  galleries,  and  apertures  in  the  arching  for  annoying  assailants.  Nothing  can  be 
more  striking  than  the  effect  at  first  entrance  vdthin  the  walls  from  the  town,  when, 
through  a  d&u-k  ^oomy  gateway  of  considerable  length  and  depth,  the  eye  suddenly 
emerges  into  one  of  tne  most  splendid  scenes  that  can  be  imagined,  and  is  presented 
at  once  with  the  ^eat  body  of  the  inner  castle,  surroundea  with  fair  semicircular 
towers,  finely  swemng  to  the  eye,  and  gaily  adorned  with  pinnacles,  figures,  battle- 
ments,  &c  ♦  ^ 

The  impressicA  is  still  further  strengthened  by  the  successive  entrance  into  the  se- 
eond  and  third  courts,  through  great  massy  towers,  till  the  sti^anger  is  landed  in  the 
irniar  ooiort,  in  the  very  centre  of  this  great  dtadel.  Here  he  enters  a  most  beautifrd 
Stair-^case^  6£  a  very  singular  yet  pleasing  form,  expanding  like  a  fan.  The  cornice  of 
the  ceiling  is  iiiarched  with  a  series  of  190  escutcheons,  displaying  the  prindnal 
quarterings  and  intermarriages  of  the  Percy  family.  The  space  occupied  by  tnis 
stair^case  is  46  feet  long,  35  leet  4  incb^s  wioe,  and  43  feet  2  inches  high. 

The  first  room  that  presents  to  the  left  is  the  Saloon,  which  is  a  most  beautiful 
apartment,  desired  in  the  gayest  and  most  elegant  style  of  Gothic  architecture; 
being  42  feet  8  mches  long,  37  feet  2  inches  wide,  and  19  feet  10  inches  high.  Here 
is  a  painting  of  Henry,  the  ninth  Earl  of  Northumberland,  a  copy  from  Vandyke  by 
Phihps.  This  painting  is  in  a  circular  frame,  over  the  chimney-pieoe.  On  his  right 
hand  is  a  painting  of  his  son  Algernon,  the  tenth  Earl  of  Nortnnmberland,  copied 
from  Vandyke  by  the  same  hand.  On  Henry's  left  hand  is  a  painting  of  Josceline, 
the  eleventh  Earl  of'Northumberlaild,  a  copy  from  Sir  Peter  Lely  by  tne  same  hand. 
Here  are  also  two  other  paintings ;  one  of  the  Duke  of  Somerset,  and  one  of  the  se- 
cond Duchess  of  Northumberland,  by  Philips.    The  above  paintings  are  all  in  frill 

*  Mr.  Pennant,  in  describing  this  ancient  and  magnificent  castle^  says^  "  You  look  in  vain  for  any  marks 
of  the  grandeur  of  the  fieodal  age,  for  trophies  won  by  a  family  emment  in  our  annals  for  military  prowess 
and  deeds  o£  chivalry ;  for  halls  hung  with  helms  and  hauberks,  or  with  the  spoils  of  the  chace  ;  for  extensive 
fofests  and  venerable  oaks.  You  look  in  vain  for  the  helmet  on  the  tower^  the  ancient  signal  of  hospitality 
to  the  traveller ;  or  for  the  grey-headed  porter  to  ccmduct  hira  to  the  hall  of  entertainment.  The  numerous 
train  whose  countenances  gave  welcome  to  him  on  his  way  are  now  no  more ;  and,  instead  of  the  disinterested 
usher  of  die  old  times,  he  is  attended  by  a  valet,  eager  to  receive  the  fees  of  admittance." 

On  this  another  traveller  observes,  **  that  though  the  savi^  ferocity  of  the  feodal  ages  is  taken  away,  yet 
not  the  marks  of  grandeur.  There  are  no  miserable  dungeons  filled  with  captives,  no  places  of  execution 
groaiubg  under  their  execrable  burden ;  the  towers  remain,  but  without  the  gry  of  captivity  and  torture. 
Hospitality,  clothed  in  princely  array,  sits  in  the  hall,  dispensing,  with  a  brow  of  benignity,  mixed  witfa  fea* 
tures  of  the  highest  magnificence,  gifts  worthy  her  hand.** 


458  COQUETDALE  WARD— E.  D. 

lengthy  except  that  of  the  ninth  Earl,  which  is  in  a  sitting  posture.  In  the  remaining 
compartments  it  is  intended  to  have  other  portraits  of  the  family. 

To  this  succeeds  the  Drawing  Room,  consisting  of  one  large  oval,  with  a  semi- 
circular projection,  or  bow  window.  It  is  46  feet  7  inches  long,  35  feet  4  inches  wide, 
and  21  feet  high.  Hence  the  transition  is  very  properly  to  the  great  Dining  Room ; 
which  was  one  of  the  first  executed,  and  is  of  the  purest  Gk>tmc,  with  niches  and 
other  ornaments,  that  render  it  a  very  noble  model  of  a  great  baron's  hall.  In  this 
room  was  an  irregularity  in  the  form,  which  has  been  managed  with  great  skill  and 
judgment,  and  made  productive  of  beauty  and  convenience.  This  was  a  large  bow 
window,  not  in  the  centre,  but  towards  the  upper  end,  which  now  affords  a  very 
agreeable  recess  when  the  family  dine  alone,  or  for  a  second  table  at  the  public  din- 
ners. This  room  is  58  feet  9  inches  in  length,  20  feet  10  inches  wide  (exclusive  of 
the  circular  recess,  which  is  19  feet  in  diameter),  and  26  feet  9  inches  high.  In  this 
room,  over  the  chimney-piece,  is  a  painting  of  Elizabeth,  Duchess  of  Northumber. 
land,  by  Lindot,  from  an  original  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds. 

From  the  Dining  Room  the  stranger  may  either  descend  into  the  court,  by  a  cir- 
cular stair-case,  op  he  is  ushered  into  a  very  beautiful  Gothic  apartment  over  the  gate* 
way,  commonly  u^  for  a  breakfast  or  supper  room :  this  is  furnished  with  dosets  in 
the  octagon  towers,  and  is  connected  with  other  private  apartments.  It  is  S8  feet  4 
inches  long,  19  feet  10  inches  wide  (exclusive  of  the  recesses,  which  are  4  feet  7 
inches),  and  16  feet  1  inch  high. 

Hence  the  stranger  is  conducted  into  the  Library,  which  is  a  very  fine  room,  in  the 
form  of  a  parallelogram,  properly  fitted  up  for  the  books,  and  ornamented  with  stucco- 
work  in  a  very  rich  Gothic  style ;  being  64  feet  long,  28  feet  1  inch  wide,  and  16  feet 
1  inch  high.  This  apartment  leads  to  the  Chapel,  which  fills  all  the  upper  space  of 
the  middle  ward.  Here  the  highest  display  of  Gk)thic  ornaments  in  the  greatest 
beauty  hajf  been  very  properly  exhibited ;  and  the  several  parts  of  the  chapel  have 
been  designed  after  the  most  perfect  models  of  excellence.  The  great  east  window  is 
in  the  style  of  one  of  the  finest  in  York  Minster.  The  ceiling  is  borrowed  from  that 
of  King's  College,  in  Cambridge ;  and  the  mouldings  and  stucco-work  are  gilt  and 

1>ainted  after  the  great  church  in  Milan :  but  the  windows  of  painted  glass  are,  for 
ightness  and  elegance,  superior  to  any  thing  that  has  yet  been  attempted,  and  worthy 
or  the  present  more  improved  state  of  the  arts.  Exclusive  of  a  beautiful  circular  re- 
cess for  the  family,  the  chapel  is  50  feet  long,  21  feet  4  inches  wide,  and  22  feet  high. 
Under  the  great  window  is  an  elegant  sarcophagus  of  statuary  marble,  erected  to  me 
memory  of  JElizabeth,  the  first  Duchess  of  Northumberland.  In  the  centre  of  this  is 
a  bust  of  the  Duchess  in  bass-relief,  and  on  each  side  of  the  bustj^  also  in  bass-relief,  a 
full  length  figure.  At  one  end  of  the  sarcophagus  are  the  arms  of  the  Duchess,  and, 
at  the  other  me  arms  of  the  Duke  her  husband.  On  the  top  are  a  lion  and  unicorn 
couchant,  and  between  them,  on  a  small  tablet,  is  an  inscription,  "  Sacred  to  the  me- 
moryof  Elizabeth  Percy,  Duchess  of  Northumberlaiid,  dA^ghter  of  Algernon,  Duke 
of  Somerset,  and  heiress  of  the  ancient  Earls," 

Returning  from  the  Chapel  through  the  Library,  and  passing  by  another  great 
stair-case,  that  fills  an  oval  space  2%  feet  9  inches  lono,  and  15  feet  3  inches  wide,  we 
enter  a  passage  or  gallery,  which  leads  to.  two  great  State  Bed-chambers,  each  30  feet 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  453 

long,  most  nobly  Aimished,  with  double  dressing-rooms,  closets,  and  other  conve- 
niences, all  in  the  highest  .decance  and  magnificence,  but  as  conformable  as  possible 
to  the  general  style  of  the  castfe.  One  of  the  bed-chambers  was  in  1822  fittea  out  in 
the  most  superb  style,  in  expectation  that  the  king  would  return  by  land  from 
Edinburgh,  in  which  case  his  majesty  would  have  honoured  their  Graces  with  a  visit. 
From  these  bed-chambers  the  passage  opens  to  the  grand  stair-case,  and  completes  a 
tour  not  easily  to  be  paralleledL* 

This  castle  appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  great  strength  immediately  after  the 
Norman  conquest ;  for  in  the  reign  of  Icing  Wiuiam  Rufus  it  underwent  a  remarka- 
ble siege  from  Midcolm  III.  king  of  Scotland,  who  lost  his  life  before  it,  as  did  also 
Prince  Edward,  his  eldest  son.  The  most  authentic  account  of  this  event  seems  to 
be  that  given  in  the  ancient.  Chronicle  of  Alnwick  Abbey,  of  which  a  copy  is  pre- 
served in  the  British  Museum.  This  informs  us,  that  the  castle,  although  too  strong 
to  be  taken  by  assault,  being  cut  off  from  all  hopes  of  succour,  was  on  the  point  of 
surrendering,  when  one  of  the  garrison  undertooK  its  rescue  by  the  following  strata- 

fem :  He  rode  forth  completely  armed,  with  the  keys  of  the  castle  tied  to  the  end  of 
is  spear,  and  presented  himself  in  a  suppliant  manner  before  the  king's  pavilion,  as 
being  come  to  surrender  up  the  possession.  Malcolm  too  hastily  came  fcHrtn  to  receive 
him,  and  suddenly  received  a  mortal  wound.  The  assailant  escaped  by  the  fleetness 
of  his  horse  through  the  river,  whidi  was  then  swoln  with  rains.  The  Chronicle  adds 
that  his  name  was  Hammond,  and  that  the  place  of  his  passage  was  long  after  him 
named  Hamm<md*s  Ford,  probably  whesre  the  bridge  was  afterwaids  buSt.  Prince 
Edward,  Malcolm's  eldest  son,  too  incautiously  advancing  to  revenge  his  father's 
death,  received  a  wound,  of  which  he  died  three  days  after.  The  spot  where  Mal- 
colm was  slain  was  distinguished  by  a  cross,  which  was,  in  1774,  restored  by  Eliza- 
beth, Duchess  of  Northumberland,  who  was  immediately  descended  from  this 
unfortunate  king,  bv  his  daughter  queen  Maud,  wife  of  king  Henry  I.  of  England. 
But  the  most  remarkable  events  that  happened  at  or  near  this  castle  will  be  inauded 
in  the  history  of  its  proprietors. 
P^fore  the  Norman  con<]^uest,  this  9astle,  together  with  the  baronjr  of  Alnwick,  and 

m 

*  In  the  upper  apartment  oif  tl}e  Constable's  To\yer  there  are  arms  for  1500  men;  They  are  arranged  in 
beautiful  order^  and  were  formerly  used  by  the  Percy  Tenantry.  In  the  same  apartment  there  is  a  canoe, 
with  the  dress^  darts,  harpoon,  &c.  formerly  belonging  to  an  Esquimaux  princess.  They  were  brought  from 
Amerioi  to  England  by  the  Ute'Diike.  Several  ancient  curiosities  are  deposited  in  the  prison.  Amongst 
them  is  9  Roman  fuperal  urn,  fbund  near.  Corbridge.  It  has  the  following  inscription  on  its  side !— '^  D*  M* 
AVRELIAE  ACHAICES."  On  another  stone  is  inscribed,  "LEQ  II  AVG  P,"  encircled  by  a  dvic  gar. 
land.  The  crest  of  the  imperial  engle  is  repre^nted  at  each  comer,  and  the  whole  is  inclosed  in  an  oblong 
square  ornamented  border.  Here  ure  also  a  niarble  Roman  capital  of  excellent  workmanship ;  a  stone  with 
the  figure  of  a  Phoemic  |ind  the  Percy  armsi  a  marble  cannon-ball,  2  feet  9  inches  in  circumference;  two 
cannon,  and  a  mortar,  of  malleable  iron  of  liide  Workmanship ;  and  die  old  standard  bushel  of^  Northumber« 
land.  It  is  made  of  bell-metal,  and  was  presented  to  the  county  by  th>  magistrates,  as  appears  fVom  the 
fcUowfaig  inscription:— ''COMITAVS  NORTHVMBRILL  ALNEWICKE  EX  DONE  IVSTITIARI^ 
ORVM    1695."    The  uspofthisbbshelwa^  supersede  by  tliat  of  the  Winchestflvmea 

YOh.  h  ^  X 


454  COQUETDALE  WABD^-E.  D. 

aQ  its  dependencies,  had  belonged  to  a  great'faaran,  named  GSbext  Tyson.*  His  son^ 
William,  had  an  only  daughter,  whom  the  CkmrniCTor  gave  in  marriage  to  one  erf  his 
Norman  chieftains,  named  Ivo  de  Vescy,  tograier  with  all  the  infaeiitanoe  of  her 
house.  From  that  period  the  castle  and  barony  of  Alnwidc  contkiued  in  the  posses- 
ion of  the  Lords  de  Vescy  down  to  the  time  of  king  Edward  I. ;  in  tibe  2ffth  year  of 
whose  rei^,  A.  D.  1297,  died  Lord  William  de  Vesqr,  the  last  baron  of  thia  family, 
who,  having  no  legitimate  issue,  did,  by  the  king's  fieence,  infeoff  Anthcmy  Bee, 
bishop  of  Durham,  and  titular  patriarch  of  Jerusdem,  in  the  casde  and  buimy  of 
Ahiwick.  At  the  same  time  William  gave  to  a  natural  son  of  his,  named  aba  Wil- 
liam de  Vescy,  the  manor  of  Hoton  Bused,  in  Yorkshire ;  which  he  settled  absohitely 
on  him  and  his  heirs ;  a]>pointing  him,  as  he  was  then  a  minor,  two  guardians,  whose 
names  were  Thomas  Plaiz,  and  Geoifrey  Cy^sinet*  Clerk.f  This  appointnrent,  as  also 
the  very  words  of  the  ^eeA  of  infeoffinent  (still  extant),  in  which  the  eonveyanct  is  to 
the  bishop  absolute  and  unconditional,  conftite  a  report  too  hastily  taken  up  by  some 
historians,  that  this  castle  and  barony  were  only  given  to  the  buhop  in  trust  for  Wfl- 
Ham,  the  bastard  above-mentioned,  and  that  he  was  guilty  of  a  breach  of  trust,  in  di^^ 
posing  of  them  otherwise. 

*  Gilbert  Tjson,  lord  of  Bridliogtoo,  Widten,  Mahad,  and  Alnwick,  at  tbe  time  of  the  Nocmaa  oonquMt, 
had  laBue  William  Tyson,  son  and  heir,  and  Ridiard,  flBoond  soa.  William  had  dne.onlj  daiM^htar,  Boatnicc, 
who  was  given  in  marriage  by  William  the  Conqnerer  to  Ivede  Veaey,  who  came  over  with  him  to  England,' 
with  the  barony  of  Alnwidc  and  Malton,  and  all  lands  appertaining  thereto.*— Richard  Tyson,  aeixmd  son  of 
Gilbert,  founder  of  the  abbey  of  Gnisbroiig)i,  asnd  by  gift  of  bis  lather  lord  of  Shilbottle,  Haaand,  Newton, 
Reighton,  Folandon,  and.Bozfield,  and  the  church  of  Gysius  (by  gift  of  his  father),  is  buried  in  Guisfaroogh 
Abbey:  he  had  one  only  son,  William  Tyson ;  and  William  one  only  son,  Germayne ;  and  Germayne  one 
daughter,  sole  heir,  who  married  William  Hilton,  Baron  of  Hilton,  fsUher  of  Alexander  Hilton,  fiither  of  Bo- 
bert  Hilton. — WilUam  Tyson,  son  and  heir  of  Gilbert  Tyson,  lord  of  Bridlington,  Walton,  Malton,  Alnwick, 
&c.  married  the  daughter  of  Gilbert  Gaunt,  Earl  of  Lincoln,  and  by  her  had  his  sole  heiress,  married  to  Ivo 
Vescy :  said  William  Tyson  was  at  the  battle  of  Hastings  with  William  the  Cotiqueror  against  Harold,  and 
king  William  gave  him  the  simame  of  Vescy,  from  a  village  in  Normandy  from  whence  he  came. — Ivo  Lord 
Vescy,  baron  of  Alnwick  and  Malton,  married  Alda,  sole  heir  of  William  Tyson,  lord  of  Bridlington  and 
Malton,  and  had  issue  Beatrice,  sole  heir  of  all  those  ]ands.-^£u8tace  Fits-John,  a  noble  baron,  son  of  Mono- 
Qolus,  lord  of  Knaresboroughi  brother  and  heir  of  Serlo  de  Bur^,  who  in  the  reign  of  the  Conqueror  built 
Knaresborough  Castle,  niarried  first  Agnes,  dimghter  of  William  the  constable  of  (tester,  founder  of  Norton 
Abbey,  and  sister  and  heir  of  William  his  brother,  also  constable  of  Chester,  who  died  S.  P. ;  by  Agnes,  his 
first  wife,  had  Richard  Fita-Euatace.  Eustace  Fitz- John  married  secondly  the  above-mentioned  Beatrice^ 
with  whom  he  had  the'  banmies  of  Malton  and  Alnwick,  and  with  her  founded  the  abbeys  of  Malton  and 
Alnwidc  and  the  &oqpital  of  Broughton,  and  by  her  had  issue  William^  who  assumed  the  name  and  aims  of 
Ve8cy>  and  was  lord  of  Alnwick  and  all  other  honours ;  he  married  Birga,  daughter  of  Robert  Estatevil,  and 
by  her  had  Eustace  Lord  Vescy  of  Alnwicki  and,  seconds  Warren  Vescy,  lord  of  Knapton^  by  gift  of  his  fa* 
ther,  and  Matilda,  wife  of  Watterson  Warik.«— Eustace  Lord  Vescy  married  Margaret,  or  Mariona,  daughter 
of  William  king  of  Scots  and  Earl  of  Huntingdon,  and  by  her  had  issue  William,  his  heir,  and  Richard  No- 
thas.««-WiIliam  Lord  Vescy,  &c.  married,  first,  Isabel,  daughter  of  William  Loogspre,  Earl  of  Salisbury,  by 
whom  he  had  no  issae;  and,  secondly.  Agues,  ckughter  of  William  de  Fenrers,  £iud  Digby»  and  by  her  had 
John  and  William^  sucoesaively  L^rds  Vesrar.  who  both  died  withoot  issue. 

f  See  Dugdale's  Baronage,  voL  i.  p.  95. 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  455 

In  the  bishop^s  pmsession  the  caitle  and  barony  at  Abiwick  continued  twelve 
years,  and  were  then  by  hhxl  granted  and  sold  to  Lord  Htory  Percy,  one  of  th^ 

greatest  barons  in  the  north,  who  had  dirtinguished  himself  very  mnch  in  the  wars  of 
oothund,  and  whose  family  had  enjoyed  large  possessions  in  Yorkshire  from  the  time 
of  the  conquest  The  grant  was  afterwards  confirmed  by  the  king  at  Sheene,  SSd 
January,  1810,  (anno  3  king  Bdward  II.)  to  Henry  de  Percy  and  his  heirs ;  who,  to 
remove  every  pretence  of  cmmplaint,  obtained  a  release  of  all  right  and  title  to  the  in^ 
heritance  from  the  heir  at  law,  Sir  Gilbert  de  Aton,  knight,  wli^  was  the  nearest  legi^ 
timate  rekticm  to  the  Loird  William  de  VesQ;'  above  mentioned**  From  that  period, 
Alnwick  Castle  became  the  great  baronial  seat  in  the  north  of  the  Lords  de  Peroy^, 
and  of  their  suoeesson,  the  Earls  of  Northumberland ;  by  whom  it  was  transmitted 
down  in  lineal  succession  to  their  ittustrious  representative,  the  present  Duke  of 
Northumberland. 

This  noble  family  is  descended  from  Mainfred,  a  Danish  chieftain,  who  made  erup- 
tions into  France  in  the  9th  century.  His  posterity,  settling  in  Normandy,  took  thdf 
name  £riHn  their  domain  of  Percy,  in  that  province,  which  Geffrey,  the  son  of  Main, 
fred,  obtained  from  the  famous  RoUo,  whom  he  accompanied  in  his  adventurest 
Geffiey  had  issue,  William  de  Percy,  Lord  Perdy,  and  £arl  of  Kaws,  governor  of 
Normandy;  who»  had  is^ue  Geffrey  de  Percy,  who  married  Mary,  daughter  to  the 
Earl  of  Fotest;  who  had  issue  William  de  Pevcy,  who  had  issue  Geffrey,  all  bom  in 
Normandy.  The  last  Gteffrey  had  issue  two  sons,  WiHiam  and  Serlo,  who  came  into 
England  with  William  the  Conqueror.f  William  was  a  great  &vourite  of  this  prince, 
and  by  his  bounty  held  large  possessions  in  Hamnshii^,  SS  lordships  in  Lincolnshire, 
and  86  lordships  in  Yorkshire ;  Topdiff  in  the  North  Riding,  and  Spofford  in  the 
West  Riding,  being  his  chief  seata  He  left  a  ^at  patrimony  in  Frarioe  to  the 
Lord  Monpensier.  Madox,  in  his  Bdrcnia  AngheanOy  says,  that  William  the  Con- 
queror granted  to  his  favourite  Percy  a  barony  of  30  knights'  fees. 

This  William  de  Percy  was  surnamed  Le  Geman,  or  AlgemaH :  he  was  possessed 
of  the  Idrdship  of  Whitbv,  with  the  large  territory  adjacent  thereto,  in  the  East  Rid*^ 
ing  of  the  county  of  York,  where  he  founded  an  abbey  for  Benedictine  monks^  to  the 
honour  of  God,  St.  Peter,  and  St.  Hilda,  in  the  time  of  king  William  Rufus^  in  the 
place  where  the  monastry  of  Stnm^le  andently  stood  (destroyed  by  Inguar  and 

*  This  avgvnientj  which  is  mxcd  by  Mr.  Orose*  does  not  ezcalpfttt  the  Uihopi  aecording  to  odi^  writers, 
but  confirms  the  suspicion  of  his  guilt  Such  a  ratification  of  title^  says  Mr.  Hutchinson,  tells  a  consciousness 
of  defects.  Had  the  bastard  son  confirmed,  the  doubt  would  have  been  taken  away.  Mr.  Wallis  says  that 
he  was  not  permitted  to  take  possession  of  the  castle  and  barcMiy  of  Alnwick,  in  consequence  ot  some  dis- 
courtesy done  to  the  bishop  his  guardian.  But  these  objections  are  urged  on  very  slender  ibundation,  and 
are  expressly  refuted  by  the  statements  of  the  original  deeds.  In  addition  to  what  has  already  been  advanced, 
it  may  be  Airtfaer  observed,  that  Henry  de  Lacy,  Earl  of  Lincoln,  one  of  the  witnesses  to  Lord  Percy^s  pur- 
chase, wais  closely  allied  in  blood  to  William  de  Vescy,  being  both  of  them  equally  descended  from  their  com« 
mon  ancestor,  Bitstace  Fits-John,  and  therefore  it  cannot  be  supposed  that  he  would  have  concurred  in  any 
aet  injuriou9  to  his  fkmily. 

t  The  early  history  of  this  iUintrions  house  is  btantifiilly  idatsd  in  the  ingeoMNM  poem  of  the  Hermit  of 
Warkworth,  by  the  kite  Dr.  Percy. 


456  COQUKTDALE  WARD^E.  D. 

Ubba  the  Danes).  Serlo,  the  founder's  brother,  having  assumed  the  habit  of  a 
monk,  was  abbot.  Wilfiam  married  Elinma  de  Port,  lady  of  the  honour  of  Semar^ 
whose  father,  a  Saxon  lord,  had  been  sLain  fighting  with  Harold.  William,  firom  a 
principle  of  honour  and  generosity,  married  this  young  lady,  having  had  all  her  lands 
bestowed  upon  him  by  the  Conqueror.  He  had  issue  by  her  three  sons,  Allan,  Wal-* 
ter,  and  William.  At  Sion  House,  in  an  old  roll  written  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII. 
is  a  history  of  the  family  in  verse,  in  which  it  is  said  he  was  admiral  of  the  navy 
which  brought  over  WilUam  the  Conqueror,  that  he  died  beyond  the  seas,  and  his 
heart  was  brought  over  to  England,  and  interred  at  Whitby,  in  the  chapter-house ; 
where  also  Emma  his  lady  was  buried,  having  survived  her  husband. 

Allan  de  Percy,  the  eldest  son,  succeeded  to  the  hcmours  and  estates  of  his  father. 
He  married  Emma,  daughter  of  Gilbert  de  Gaunt,  Lord  of  Hummundbre,  and  son 
of  Gilbert,  Earl  of  Lincom,  and  had  issue  five  sons,  William, .  Geffrey,  Henry,  Wal* 
ter,  and  Allan,  He  had  likewise  one  illegitimate  son,  AUan,  who  was  with  the  king 
of  Seote,  in  the  3d  of  kin^  Stephen,  at  the  Battle  of  the  Standard. 

The  second  William  Lord  Percy*  married  Alice,  the  daughter  of  Robert  Lord 
ItDss,  and  had  issue  four  sons,  Allan,  WUliam,  Richard,  and  Robert  Allan  d] ' 
without,  issue,  William  succeeded  to  the  estates  and-  honours  of  his  anoestors. 
William,  the  fourth  Lord  Parcy,  in  .the  34th  of  Hairy  I.  founded  the  abbey  of 
HampoU  for  Cistertian  monks;  and  also  that  of  Sallay,  in  Craven,  in  the  12th  of 
king  Stephen.  He  was  one  of  the  n<Ni;hem  barons  who  distinguished  themselves  at 
the  battle  of  Northallerton  against  the  Scots,  In  the  12th  of  Henry  II.  on  levying 
the  aids  on  the  marriage  of  the  king's  daughter,  he  certified  his  knights'  fees  to  be 
twenty-eight  de  veteri  /eoffamento^  and  eight,  a  third  and  sixth  parts  de  novo  ftajfa-. 
mento.  He  made  a  journey  to  Jerusalem,  and  departed  this  life  at  MountJoy,  in  the 
Holy  Xiand^  He  married  Adelidis  de  Tunebrigge,  by  whom  he  had  issue  four  sons, 
Walter,  Allan,  Richard,  and  William :  and  two  daughters,  Maud  and  Agnes.  All 
the  s(His  died  without  issue.  William  was  a  monk,  and  abbot  of  Whitby.  Maud 
was  married  to  William,  Earl  of  Warwick,  and  Agnes  to  Joscelinc  de  Louvaine,  son 
to  Godfrey,  Duke  of  Brabant,  and  brother  to  Adelidis,  queen  of  England,  wife  of 
Henry  I^  Maud  died  without  issue,  and,  on  her  demise,  Agnes  her  sister  became 
sole  heiress  of  all  the  large  possessions  of  her  ancestors.  Bef^  her  marriage  with 
Josceline,  a  covenant  was  made,  that  he  should  either  bear  the  arms  of  the  Lords 
Percy,  and  renounce  hij»  own  \  or  continue  his  awn  arms,  and  take  the  name  of  Percy 

m 
1 

•  The  second  William  Lord  Percy,  the  aonne  of  the  first  AUyne,  married  Aliaa,  that  lyeth  at  Whitbye,  hy 
whom  he  had  Alayne  his  first  begottea  sonne  that  died  without  issue^  Richard  the  first  L<Nrd  Percy,  Robert 
Percy  who  begat  John  Percy. 

In  the  year  of  grace  1 120^  and  in  the  20th  year  of  King  Henery  the  fiest^  William  the  Prince  of  England 
was  at  Barkeflete  in  Normandy e,  and  was  purposing  to  follow  into  England  his  father,  and  he  was  drowned 
in  the  sea,  and  many  mo  noble  folkes  not  farre  fro  the  land  ;  among  whom  was  Ridiard  i^  bastaid  sonne  <^ 
the  King,  and  also  his  bastard  sister  the  Countyes  of  Percy  (or  Perche  in  France),  Richard  the  Earl  of  Chester, 
and  his  wyfe  the  King^s  nese ;  and  the  Archdeacon  of  Hertford,  and  many  other  to  the  number  of  140 :  and 
none  of  them  escaped  hut  one  rude  fellow  a  Boeher,  and  he  swamme  all  night  upon  an  ore,  and  in  the  mom« 
ing  he  was  driven  to  the  land  side,  and  he  told  all  the  matter  and  casualtye..^£a?.  Beg.  MmasL  cfe  WbUb^,^ 


r 
I 


ALNWICK  PARISH,  >  457 

to  him  and  his  usue  by  her.  Under  ber  picture  in  tbe  t)e4ispre^  a^  SioQ-ibom^e  V^ 
these  lines  :-^ 

Lord  PeTcj^a  hw  1  ^ib^  whose  noble  Dame 
By  qie  9urvtF^,  unto  tiis  lasting  imne ; 
BratMmCf  Duke*s  son  I  w^»  apd  fer  my  sake 
Relaia'A  hk  armK  and  Percy's  oapie  49d.  tfike. 

There  was  issue  of  this  marriage  four  sons,  Hiehard,  Hehry»  liobert  (Lord  Suttm 
upon  Derwent),  and  Joseeline,  Josceline  d^  Louvaine's  pedigree  waa  from  the  kingi^ 
of  France,  of  the  race  of  Charlemagne. 

Ridiard,  the  eldest  son,  was  one  of  the  chief  of  those  barons  in  arms  against  long 
John,  in  the  17th  year  of  that  reign,  and  also  one  of  the  twenty rflve  who  took  an 
oath  to  compel  the  king  to  observe  the  particular  artioleB  granted  by  the  great  chartef 
and  charter  of  the  forests :  and  he  was  excommunicated  by  the  pope,  for  being  a  par- 
tizan  with  the  insurgents;  He  was  one  of  the  banms  who  called  over  Lewis,  the  son 
of  the  French  king,  to  receivethe  crown  of  Englfvid,  and  in  association  with  Robert 
de  Ros  and  Peter  de  Bras,  subdued  all  Yorkshire  to  the  obedience  of  Lewis.  He 
made  his  peace  with  king  Henry  III.  and  was  in  aifmsfor  him  against  the  Welch,  in 
the  second  year  of  that  reign.     Ha  died  without  issue,  as  did  also  Robert  and  Josceline* 

The  first  Henry  Lord  Percy  succeeded  as  heir  of  his  brother :  he  married  Isabel^ 
daughter  of  Adam,  and  sister  of  Peter  de  Brus,  of  Skelton.  He  had  in  dowry  the 
manor  of  Lekenfield,  for  which  he  rendered  the  following  remarkable  service :  he  and 
his  heirs  were  to  resort  to  Skelton  Castle  every  Christmas-day,  and  lead  the  lady  of 
that  castle  from  her  chamber  to  the  diapel  at  mass,  9nd  from  thence  to  her  chamber 
again ;  and  aft^  dinnar  to  depart.  He  was  buried  at  Whitby,  and  left  issue  two 
sons,  William  and  H«vy. 

The  fourth  William  Ijovd  Percy,  being  seised  of  the  estates  of  his  father,  paid  100 
marks  fine  in  the  Bdth  year  of  the  reign  of  king  Henry  I JI.  to  exempt  him  of  at- 
tendance on  the  king  into  Gascoigne.  He  had  two  wives :  by  the  first,  Elan,  daugh« 
ter  of  William  Lord  Bardolph,  he  had  seven  sons ;  by  Joan,  his  second  wife,  who  was 
the  daughter  of  WiRiam  de  Brewer,  he  had  no  issue  that  survived  hun. 

The  second  Henry  Lord  Perdy,  his  eldest  son,  succeeded  his  £ather  in  the  honoiury 
and  possessions  of  tne  family.  He  married  Eleanor,  daughter  of  John  ^llarl  of  War- 
ren and  Surrey.  We  find  him  in  several  serviees  in  the  reign  of  king  Henry  IIL 
against  the  Welch  and  Scotch,  and  tdt  some  sjbLort  time  in  association  wkh  the  rebelr 
Uous  barons,,  but  rest(»^  soon  after  to  royal  fovour.  '  He  had  ia^ae  three  sona,  Wil** 
liam,  John,  and  Henry.  WiHiam'and  John  died  without  issue,  and  the  honours  and 
estates  devolved  upon 

The  third  Henry  Lord  Percy,  #hose  wardship,  88  king  Edward  I.  was  granted  to 
fldmund  the  kin^  brother.  In  the  S4th  year  of  that  rdgn,  he  was  knighted  by  the 
sovereign  before  jierwiek;  after  which  he  was  in  the  battle  of  Dunbar,  where  th6 
English  obtained  a  signal  victory.  Among  tlie  prisoners  was  king  Bruoe's  queefi) 
daughter  to  the  EaiA  of  Ulster,  who,  at  the  solemnity  of  their  coronation,  is  reported 
to  have  said,  *^  That  she  fewad  they  should  prove  bujt  as  a  summer  king  and  queea, 

VOL.  L— (20)  5  Z 


'I 
I* 


458  COQUETDALE  WARD^E.  D. 

imch  as  in  country  towns  the  young  folks  chose  for  sport,  to  danoe  about  May-poles.*' 
Song  Edw^d  gave  the  earldom  of  Carrick,  her  husband's  inheritance,  to  Ixnd  Henry 
Percy,  who,  in  endeavourinfir  to  secure  his  rents  from  beins  seized,  lost  part  of  his 
armed  retinue,  horses,  and  puite,  and,  with  Lord  Clifford  and  the  Earl  of  Pembroke, 
was  besieged  at  Rentier  by  the  Scotch  forces,  where  they  defended  themselves  gal* 
lantlv  till  relieved  by  tro(n)s  sent  by  the  king  from  Lanercost.  This  Lord  Percy 
purdoased  the  barony  of  Alnwick,  as  before  menticmed.  In  the  5th  year  of  king 
Henry  II.  he  was  governor  of  the  castle$  of  Scarbrough  and  Bambrough ;  and  in  the 
same  year  the  king  mnted  him  the  custody  of  the  manor  of  T^nple  W  eneby,  in  the 
county  of  York,  bdonging  to  the  Knights  Templars,  who  were  charged  by  Pope 
Clement  with  being  guilty  of  apostacy,  idolatry,  sodomy,  and  heresy.  This  Lotd 
Percy  was  one  of  the  barons  who  besieged  Piers  de  Gaviston,  Earl  of  Cornwall^  in 
Scarbrough  Castle,  on  account  of  the  royal  partiality  shewn  to  this  haughty  favourite : 
Gaviston  had  surrendered  himself  to  his  protection,  but  it  did  not  prevent  bis  death. 
A  royal  mandate  issued  for  the  confiscation  of  all  Lord  Percy's  estates  and  effects ; 
but  m  the  7th  year  of  that  reign,  he  had  restitution  and  a  pardon  from  the  king : 
after  which  he  was  in  the  royal  army  at  the  battle  of  Bannockbiun,  when  the  English 
sustained  a  shameful  defeat  On  the  death  of  Robert  Lord  Clifford,  during  the  mi- 
nority of  his  heir,  he  had  the  custody  of  the  castles  of  Skipton  in  Craven,  Appleby, 
Brougham,  and  Pendragon,  in  Westmoreland  and  Cumberland.  He  died  in  the  8th 
year  of  king  Edward  if.  and  was  buried  in  the  abb^  of  Fountains,  before  the  high 
altar.  By  Eleanor  his  wife,  daughter  of  John  Fitz-AUan,  he  had  issue  two  sons, 
Henry  and  William. 

The  fourth  Henry  Lord  Percy  was  sixteen  years  of  age  when  his  father  died  On 
the  10th  of  September,  16  king  Edward  II.  he  was  made  a  knight  at  York,  bavins 
the  year  before  been  appointed  governor  of  Scarbrough  smd  Pickering.  In  the  19t£ 
vear  of  king  Edward  II.  on  the  landing  of  queen  Isabel  and  prince  ^ward  in  Eng- 
land, he  was  one  of  the  nobles  that  joined  with  them  for  reforming  the  abuses  of  go- 
vernment, occasioned  by  the  influence  of  the  Spencers.  The  accession  of  tbe  forces 
headed  by  Lord  Percy  greatly  augmented  the  army  at  Gloucester,  and  was  singularly 
instrumental  in  the  great  changes  then  effected.  He  was  one  of  the  twelve  lords 
appointed  for  the  young  king's  council,  was  principal  commissioner  for  settling  the 
peace  with  Scotland,  and  was  made  warden  of  the  Marches.  He  was  tbe  first  of  the 
Percys  who  possessed  the  castle  of  Warkworth,  which,  after  the  death  of  Sir  John 
Clavering,  without  male  issue,  was  settled  to  devolve  to  the  king  and  his  heirs ;  and 
which  Henry  Lord  Percy  recdved  by  grant  from  the  crown,  in  lieu  of  an  annual 
salary  of  500  marks,  paid  to  him  for  certain  stipulated  services.  In  the  4th  of  king 
Edward  III.  he  was  ambassador  to  France.  In  the  5th  year  of  the  same  reign,  he 
was  made  one  of  the  conservators  of  the  peace  for  the  counties  of  Cumberland  and 
Northumberland;  and  in  the  succeeding  year  he  was  at)pointed  warden  of  the 
Marches,  and  conservator  of  the  peace  for  the  counties  of  Northumberland,  York, 
Lancaster,  Cumberland^  and  Westmoreland.  He  was  with  king  Edward  III.  at  the 
siege  of  Berwick,  and  at  the  memorable  battle  of  Hallidown-huL  He  was  in  much 
foreign  service  in  this  reign,  as  well  as  being  a:igaged  in  the  wars  with  Scotland ;  he 
signalized  himself  at  the  siege  of  Nantas»  and,  ^tet  hia  return  to  England,  had  the 


ALNWICK  parish:  459 

c}iief  oomtnand  at  l^e  battle  of  Nevil's  Cross.  After  livinip  a  life  of  action,  and  bo« 
iK>ur>  he  died  cm  the  26th  of  February^  in  the  26th  year  of  king  Edward  HI.  and 
was  buried  in  the  priory  of  Alnwick.  By  Idonea  his  wife,  daughter  of  Robert  Lord 
Cliffwd,  he  had  issue  four  sons :  Henry,  his  eldest,  thirty  years  of  age  at  the  decease 
of  his  father ;  Thomas,  bishop  of  Norwich ;  William,  and  Roger ;  also  four  daughters. 

The  fifth  Henry  Lord  Percy  was  in  the  great  expedition  to  France,  on  which  suc- 
ceeded the  famous  battle  of  Cressy.  He  was  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  first  wing  of 
the  English  army,  at  the  battle  of  Neyil's  Cross.  On  the  5th  of  October,  1354  (28 
king  Edward  III.),  he  was  commissioned  to  receive  £rom  Sir  John  de  Coupland^ 
sheriff  of  Northumberland,  the  body  of  David  de  Bruce,  king  of  Scotland,  and  set 
him  at  liberty,  according  to  the  treaty  for  his  ransom.  He  was  present  with  kinff 
Edward  III.  when  John  Baliol  resigned  his  crown  at  Roxburgh.  In  the  33d  year  ra 
the  same  reign,  he  was  constable  of  the  castle  of  Berwick ;  and  in  the  same  year  at« 
tended  the  king  to  France,  and  was  a  i^tness  to  the  treaty  of  Chartres.  lie  was 
several  times  in  the  commission  of  conservat(»-s  of  the  Marches.  He  had  two  wives : 
he  first  married  Lady  Mary  Plantagenet,  daughter  to  Heniy  Earl  of  Lancaster,  son 
of  Edmund  Earl  of  Lancaster,  Leicester,  Derby,  &a  second  son  of  king  Henry  HI. 
Edmund  married  Blanch,  daughter  of  Robert  Earl  of  Artois  (brother  of  St  Lewis, 
king  of  France),  and  widow  of  Henry  de  Champaigne,  king  of  Navarre.  Lady  Mary 
was  sister  to  Henry  Plantagenet,  who  was  created  duke  of  Lancaster  in  the  27th  of 
king  Edward  III.  whose  daughter  and  her  heir  was  wife  of  John  of  Gaunt,  Duke  of 
Lancaster,  father  to  king  Henry  IV.  By  this  marriage  Lord  Percy  had  issue  two 
sons,  Henry  and  Thomas.  By  his  second  wife,  Joan,  the  daughter  and  heiress  of 
John  de  Oreby,  he  had  one  child,  Maud,  who  married  John  Lord  Ross.  Lord  Percy 
departed  this  life  on  Ascension-day,  in  the  42d  year  of  king  Edward  III.  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  ddeet  son,* 

The  sixth  Henry  Lord  Percy,  who,  during  his  father's  life,  was  enffa^ed  in  several 
expeditions  into  France :  but  what  chiefly  renders  his  memoiy  amiable  m  this  age  is, 
that  he  was  a  great  favourer  and  supporter  of  the  reformer,  Wickliffe,  by  which  his 
life  was  in  imminent  peril.  He  was  appointed  Lord  Marshal  of  England,  which 
office  he  retained  at  the  coronation  of  king  Richard  II.  when  he  was  created  (16  July, 

*  Thomas,  Lord  Tercfs  second  son,  was  created  Earl  of  Worcester.  In  2  king  Richard  II.  he  was  ap» 
pointed  admiral  of  the  northern  seas,  with  Sir  Hugh  Calvely,  knight;  they  had  of  their  retinue  720  men  at 
arms,  775  archers,  and  140  cross  howmen:  on  a  cruise  they  met  with  seven  French  merchantmen,  richly 
laden^  under  convoy  of  a  man  of  war,  which  they  engaged  and  took:  in  1379^  heing  ordered  on  an  expedi- 
tion to  France,  the  fleet  was  dispersed  by  a  violent  storm,  in  which  it  suffered  great  loss ;  Sir  Thomas  having 
rode  out  the  storm,  was  soon  after  attacked  by  a  large  Spanish  ship,  which,  under  all  his  disadvantages,  he  at 
length  boarded  and  took.  In  the  succeeding  years  he  bore  many  distinguished  offices  under  government ; 
and  in  the  10th  year  of  the  same  reign,  he  was  made  admiral  of  the  fleet  which  carried  the  great  armament 
into  Spain.  In  the  21st  of  king  Richard  II.  he  was  created  Earl  of  Worcester.  His  affections  were  not 
transferred  to  Richard's  successor,  king  Henry  IV.  though  he  received  from  him  many  distinguishing  marks 
of  favour.  He  fell  from  his  allegiance,  and  engaging  in  a  confederacy  with  his  brother,  the  Earl  of  North- 
unberland,  and  Hotspur,  who  were  then  in  arms,  after  an  unsuccessful  conflict,  was  taken  prisoner  and  be« 
headed  at  Shzewsbory. 


/ 


460  COQUETDALE  WARD.-JE.  D. 

1877)  Earl  of  Northumberland.  Soon  afterwards  he  grievously  revenged  the  slaugh- 
ter  made  by  the  Earl  of  Dunbar  at  Roxburgh :  having  levied  an  army  of  10^000 
men»  he  ravaged  the  territories  of  that  Earl  for  three  successive  days,  burning  and 
slaying^  conformable  to  the  savage  customs  of  the  age.  Under  the  influence  m  the 
Duke  of  Lancaster,  who  had  expressed  an  inveterate  hatred  to  him,  he  was  accused 
of  neglect  of  duty,  wherein  the  Scots  had  surprised  Berwick,  and  judgment  of  death 
and  loss  of  estate  was  pronounced  against  him :  but  this  severe  sentenoe  was  remitted 
by  the  king,  and  he  soon  recovered  that  fortress.  The  Earl  of  Northumberland,  having 
suffered  many  unmerited  indignities  from  the  king,  entered  into  an  association  for  his 
deposition :  messengers  were  accordingly  sent  to  Henry  Duke  of  Lancaster,  son  of  John 
of  Giaunt,  who  was  then  in  France,  to  invite  him  over ;  and  he,  taking  advantage  of 
Richard's  being  in  Ireland,  landed  with  a  few  attendants,  in  the  month  of  July, 
1899»  in  Holdernesse,  Yorkshire,  where  he  was  received  by  the  Earl  of  Norlliumb«r- 
kmd,  Sir  Henry  Percy  his  son,  the  Earl  of  Westmoreland,  and  many  other  persons  of 
great  power,  with  a  considerable  body  of  men,  which  in  a  few  days  was  augmented 
to  60^000.  The  suooeeding  event  is  so  notorious,  that  it  requires  no  place  here.  The 
Earl  of  Northiimberiand  was  appointed  envoy  to  Ridiard,  and  persuaded  him  to  re- 
si^  a  royally  of  which  nothing  remained  but  the  name,  the  defection  being  so  gene- 
ral tliat  he  had  not  one  adh^ent  left  Henry  IV.  confirmed  the  Earl  in  the  liigh 
oiSide  of  Constable  of  England  for  life,  with  a  grant  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  and  many  • 
other  great  dignifies  and  eminent  employments. 

In  «ie  third  year  of  the  reign  of  king  Henry  IV.  the  Scots  having  invaded  Eng- 
land, the  earl  gave  them  a  dreadful  overthrow  at  Humbleton  Hill,  where  the  Earl  of 
Douglas  was  ^en  nrisoner.     Some  dissensions  quickly  ensued  between  the  earl  and 
his  sovereign :  the  blood  of  the  Percys  could  not  brook  an  indignity  from  one  raised 
chiefly  by  them  to  the  throne.    They  levied  a  powerful  army,  and,  under  Henry 
Hotspur  and  Earl  Douglas,  their  leaders,  gave  the  royalists  battle  near  Shrewsbury, 
in  which  the  event  for  long  was  dubious,  and  victory  seemed  to  change  from  party  to 
party  several  times,  till  at  length  king  Henry  was  supported  by  the  coming  up  of  his 
corps  de  reserve,  and  gained  a  compete  victory,  Henry  Hotspur  being  ammig  the 
9lun.    The  Earl  of  Northumberland,  then  indisposed,  did  not  come  up  with  his  rrin-* 
forcements  before  the  battle ;  and  on  receiving  intelligence  of  the  ill  success  of  his 
party,  he  retreated  to  the  castle  of  Warkworth,  from  whence,  being  summoned  by 
the  Klnff,  he  surrendered  himself,  and  obtained  the  royal  clemency  for  life,  but  was 
divested  of  his  estates  and  kept  prisoner  till  the  commotions  subsided,  when  he  re- 
ceived restitution  of  honours  and  lands,  the  Isle  of  Man  excepted.    TTiis  restoration 
was  attended  with  a  great  solemnity,  in  the  presence  of  the  assembled  estates  of  the 
kingdom.    The  commons  gave  thanks  to  the  king  in  full  parlLament  for  the  favour 
shewn  to  the  Earl  of  Northumberland.     The  same  day,  at  their  request,  the  king 
commanded  the  Earls  of  Northumberland  and  Westmoreland,  in  token  of  perfect 
amity,  to  kiss  each  other  in  open  parliament,  and  to  take  each  other  by  tlie  hand 
thrice :  which  they  did.    The  same  ceremcmy  passed  between  the  Earls  of  Korthum^ 
berlimd  and  Dunbar,  on  the  22d  February  then  following.    But  the  deatii  of  Hot* 
spur,  and  the  neglect  shewn  the  Earl  of  Nortiajumberland  from  the  €»wn,  bunged 
him  so  much,  that  in  the  succeeding  year  he  openly  joined  the  northern  mdcontents, 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  461 

tend  again  took  up  arms  against  the  king.  The  royal  army  soon  appeared  in  the 
north,  seized  tihie  JEarl's  castles  of  Alnwick  and  Warkworth,  and  drove  his  party  to 
sefek  refuge  in  Scotland.  A  scheme  was  projected  to  surrender  up  this  turhulent  Earl ; 
but  he  gaming  intelligence  of  the  design,  escaped,  and  afterwards  levied  a  sufficient 
force  to  enter  England,  and  recover  his  castles :  but  these  prosperous  circumstances 
were  soon  succee<kd  1^  a  total  overthrow  at  the  battle  of  Bramham  Moor,  on  the  2d 
of  March,  8th  king  Henry  IV.  A.  D,  1403,  in  which  the  Earl  was  slain.  His  head 
was  cut  off,  then  \^ite  with  age,  and  being  sent  to  London,  was  fixed  on  a  pole  on 
the  bridge :  his  quarters  were  placed  on  the  gates  of  London,  Lincoln,  Berwick,  and 
Newcasue ;  but  m  the  month  of  May  following,  they  were  taken  down,  and  delivered 
up  to  his  friends  to  be  buried.  The  Earl  of  Northumberland  had  two  wives :  he  first 
married  Margaret,  daughter  to  Ralph  Lord  Nevil,  sister  to  the  first  Earl  of  West- 
moreland;  by  her  he  had  issue  three  sons,  Henry,  named  Hotspur,  Thomas,  and 
Ralph.  To  his  second  wife  he  married  Matilda,  the  widow  of  Sir  Gilbert  Umfran- 
ville.  Earl  of  Angus,  daughter  of  Thomas  Lord  Lucy,  who  out  of  her  great  affection 
settled  upon  his  lordship,  and  his  heirs,  all  her  honoul-s  and  lands,  the  baronies  of 
Cockermouth  and  Egremont  in  Cumberland,  and  the  baronies  of  Langley  and  Prud- 
hoe  in  this  county,  on  condition  of  quartering  the  arms  of  the  Lucys  with  his  own. 
By  her  the  Earl  had  no  issue. 

Henry  Hotspur,  Lord  Percy,  very  early  displayed  those  martial  talents  which  have 
consecrated  his  name  in  history,  as  one  of  the  greatest  chieftains  of  this  nation.  Hav- 
ing received  knighthood  on  July  16,  1377,  at  the  coronation  of  king  Richard  H.  when 
his  father  was  created  Earl  of  Northumberland ;  this  young  hero  is  said  to  have  "  first 
spread  his  banner**  under  his  father  at  the  storming  of  Berwick,  in  2  Richard  II.  when 
he  was  only  fourteen,  "  doing  so  valiantlie,  that  he  deserved  singular  commendation/* 
From  that  time  he  so  continually  exerted  himself  against  the  enemies  of  his  country, 
that  from  the  furiotis  heat  of  his  incursions,  the  Scots  called  him  Hotspur ;  and,  by  a 
very  unusual  confirmation,  his  own  friends  and  countrymen  adopted  the  appellation, 
and  made  it  their  own,  He  was,  indeed,  what  an  old  historian  says  of  him,  the  pat- 
tern of  all  virtue  and  ^lartial  prowess.  In  the  9th  year  of  king  Richard  II.  he  was 
made  governor  of  Berwick,  and  warden  of  the  Marches  towards  Scotland.  In  the 
same  year  he  was  sent  to  Calais,  where  he  testified  his  valour.  In  the  11th  year  of 
the  same  reim,  he  was  elected  knight  of  the  garter :  but,  being  envied  at  court  for 
the  militarv  lame  he  had  acquired,  his  adversaries,  who  had  gained  the  sovereign^ 
ear,  prevailed  to  get  him  an  appointment  at  sea  to  repel  the  French,  who  threatened 
an  invasion;  in  which  he  acquitted  himself  with  great  honour.  In  the  same  year, 
the  Scotch  entering  the  East  Marches,  he  encountered  them  near  Newcastle,  slew  the 
Earl  Douglas  with  his  own  hands,  and  mortally  wounded  the  Earl  of  Murres :  but, 
pressing  forward,  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Earl  of  Dunbar,  together  with  his  bro- 
ther Ralph,  and  both  were  carried  into  Scotland,  He  bore  many  honourable  commis- 
sions in  this  reign ;  and  in  the  succeeding  one„  being  an  attendant  on  his  father  when 
the  crown  was  placed  on  the  head  of  Henry  TV.  among  other  marks  of  royal  favour* 
he  was  made  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  governor  of  Roxburgh  and  Berwick^  and 
justice  of  Chester,  North  Wales,  and  Flintshire ;  he  also  had  a  grant  of  the  castle  and 
lordship  of  Bambrough  for  life,  and  of  the  whole  county  and  dominion  of  Anglesey. 
He  was  in  the  battle  of  Hdllidown  Hill,  and  to  his  valour  and  his  archers  that  great 

VOL.  I.  6  A 


462  COQUETDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

victory  was  chiefly  attributed.  He  married  Elizabeth,  the  eldest  daughter  of  Ed- 
mund Mortimer^  Earl  of  March,  by  Philippi  his  wife,  only  daughter  and  heir  of 
Lionel  Duke  of  Clarence,  second  surviving  son  of  king  Edward  III.  by  whom  he 
had  issue  one  son,  Henry,  and  one  daughter,  who  married  John  Lord  Clifford,  and 
surviving  him,  to  her  second  husband  married  Ralph  Kevill,  second  Earl  of  West- 
moreland. 

Heniy,  his  son,  was  carried  into  Scotland  by  his  grandfather  when  an  infant  of 
tender  years,  and  was  placed  along  with  the  prince  (afterwards  kin^  James  I.)  in  the 
University  of  St.  Anduews.  In  uiis  state  of  exile  he  continued  tiU  the  reiffn  of  that 
generous  and  heroic  prince,  kine  Henry  V.  who,  soon  after  his  accession  to  the  crown, 
was  inclined  to  restore  him  to  i£  the  honours  and  patrimonv  of  his  ancestors ;  being 
moved  not  only  with  compassion  for  the  hapless  estate  of  this  young  nobleman,,  and 
by  their  being  both  descended  from  common  ancestors,  but  also  influenced  by  the 
intercessions  of  his  aunt  Joan,  Countess  of  Westmoreland,  whose  daughter,  the  Lady 
Eleanor  Nevill,  young  Percy  had  married  (as  an  old  writer*  expresses  it)  **  in  coming 
into  England.''  This  countenances  the  story  of  this  young  nobleman,  as  given  in  the 
poem  intitled,  "  The  Hermit  of  Warkworth  f  allowing  only  for  a  few  poetic  liber- 
ties :  for  whereas  he  is  there  represented  to  have  married  this  young,  lady  in  *the  cha- 
pel of  the  Hermitage ;  it  is  upon  record,  that  wherever  they  were  contracted,  tfieir 
marriage  was  indeed  celebratea  at  Berwick  upon  Tweed.  In  the  4th  year  of  kins 
Henry  V.  he  sat  in  the  parliament  holden  at  Westminster,  October  19,  as  Earl  of 
Northumberland,  and  the  same  year  was  constituted  General  Warden  of  the  Marches 
of  Scotland.  He  attended  the  ^ing  in  his  French  campaigns,  and  during  this  reign 
held  many  distinguished  offices.  He  received  the  order  of  knighthood  along  with 
king  Henry  VI.  and  many  accompanying  peers,  from  the  hand  ot  the  Duke  of  Bed- 
fore^  then  regent.  In  the  14th  year  of  king  Henry  VI.  he  made  two  unsuccessful 
irruptions  into  Scotland :  in  the  last,  his  son  threw  himself  into  the  hands  of  the 
enemy  to  save  his  father.  This  Earl  added  to  the  works  of  Alnwick  Castle,  and  for- 
tified the  town  with  a  stone  wall  of  considerable  strength,  with  four  gates  and  square 
towers. 

In  the  great  carnage  at  the  battle  of  St.  Albans,  23d  May,  1455,  the  Earl  was  among 
the  slain,  having  supported  king  Henry  VI.  the  son  of  his  benefactor,  with  all  his 
power.  He  was  interred  in  the  chapel  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  in  the  abbey  of  St.  Al« 
bans.  In  the  titne  of  peace  and  leisure,  he  patronized  learning  and  the  liberal  arts. 
He  most  generously  bestowed  three  fellowships^upon  University  CoUege  in  Oxford, 
directing  them  to  be  filled  up  by  fit  persons,  torn  in  the  diocese  of  Durham,  York, 
and  Carusle ;  the  natives  of  Northumberland  always  to  have  the  preference,  if  equally 
deserving  as  other  candidates.  He  married  Eleanor,  daughter  of  Ralph  Earl  of 
Westmoreland,  and  had  by  her  nine  sons,  viz.  Henry ;  John,  died  in  infancy ;  Tho- 
mas, created  Lord  Egremont,  who  was  slain  at  the  battle  of  Northampton,  36th  king 
Henry  VI.  in  the  king's  tent,  when  the  king  was  taken  prisoner ;  Ralph,  slain  at  tie 
battle  of  Hedgelamoor,  in  Northumberland ;  John  and  Henry,  died  young ;  William, 
Chancellor  of  the  University  of  Cambridge,  and  Bishop  of  Carlisle ;  Kichard^  not 
noted  in  history ;  and  G^rge,  a  Prebend  of  the  collegiate  church  of  Beverley.    He 

•  Harl.  MSS.  No.  €9  {06).    Antiq.  JUfoAiorfs  ii.  p.  ]  10. 


ALNWICK  parish:  46S 

had  also  two  daughtens^/  viz.  Catherine,  married  Edm.  Grey,  Earl  of  Kent ;  and  Ann, 
who  was  married  thrice,  first  to  Hungerford  Lord  Molins, .  secondly,  to  Sir  Lawrence 
Ramsford  knt.  and  lastly,  to  Sir  Hu^h  Vahan.    He  was  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son, 

Henry,  the  third  Earl,  who  was  thirty  years  of  age  when  he  succeeded  to  the  title* 
In  the  4th  year  of  the  rei^  of  king  Heniy  VI.  he  was  knighted :  the  Duke  of  Bed- 
ford first  knighted  the  lung,  and  then  tne  king  in  like  manner  conferred  the  same 
honour  on  several  of  the  sons  of  Earls,  among  whom  was  this  Henry  Lord  Percy, 
then  about  two  years  of  age,  and  the  king  not  more  than  five  years  old ;  he  having 
succeeded  to  the  throne  before  he  had  completed  the  ninth  month  of  his  age.  In  the 
SlOth  of  the  same  reign,  he  was  rationed  governor  of  the  town  and  castle  of  Berwick, 
with  the  East  Marches  of  Scotland.  He  married  Eleanor,  the  daughter  and  heiress 
of  Robert  Lord  Poinin^  (who  was  slain  at  the  si^e  of  Orleans),  and  in  the  25th 
year  of  that  reign  had  hvery  of  the  possessions  of  that  family.  In  the  27th  year  of 
the  same  reign,  he  was  summoned  to  parhament  by  the  title  of  Lord  Poinines ;  and 
in  the  S3d  year  of  king  Henry  VI.  he  succeeded  to  the  honours  of  the  earldom  of 
Northumberland.  In  we  38th  of  that  reign,  he  was  constituted  iustice  of  all  the 
forests  north  of  Trent.  He  was  with  que^i  Mar;mret  in  the  north,  when  the  king 
was  taken  prisoner  at  the  battle  of  NorUiamptcm.  She,  supported  bv  the  Earl,  having 
collected  18,000  men,  marched  southward  to  attempt  relievmg  the  King,  and  encoun* 
tered  the  Duke  of  York  near  Wakefield,  in  Yorksnire,  on  the  last  day  of  December ; 
in  which  battle  the  Duke  was  slain,  and  his  army  vanquished,  2800  h&ng  left  dead 
upon  the  field.  From  thence  the  victorious  queen  marched  southward,  and  on  Shrove 
Tuesday,  at  St.  Albans,  obtained  a  victory  over  the  forces  under  Ihe  Duke  of  Nor- 
folk, the  Earl  of  Warwick,  and  others  who  were  left  to  govern  the  kin^.  By  this 
event  he  regained  his  liberty ;  but  finding  great  levies  drawing  forwards  firom  all 
quarters  in  support  of  Edward,  the  king  with  his  party  prudently  retreated  to  the 
north.  Edward  havine  been  proclaimed  king  by  his  partizans,  by  the  name  of  king 
Edward  IV.  left  London  on  the  12th  of  JM^rch,  leading  forth  a  powerful  army  to 
pursue  the  unfortunate  Henry  in  his  retreat,  and  by  easy  marches  arrived  at  Pomfret, 
where  he  rested  the  troops  for  some  time,  appointing  the  Lord  Fitz- Walter  to  keep 
the  pass  of  Ferrybridge.  The  Earl  of  Noruiumbarbnd  directed  Lord  Clifibrd  to  re* 
cover  this  pass;,  which  enterprize  was  ably  executed.  This  affidr  broucfat  on  a  battle, 
which  was  obstinately  contested  for  three  days,  and  in  which  S6,776  men  of  both 
sides  were  slain.  The  vanguard  was  commanded  by  the  Earl  of  Northumberland, 
who»  finding  that  the  snow  olinded  his  archers,  led  them  on  sword  in  hand :  a  bloody 
conflict  continued  for  ten  hours,  in  doubtful  victory,  in  which  the  Earl  was  killed,  but 
how  or  by  whom  is  not  known.  In  the  succeeding  parliament  he  was  attainted,  aiid 
the  earldom  of  Northumberland  was  conferred  on  John  Nevill,  Lord  Montacute,  bro- 
ther  to  Richard  Nevill,  Earl  of  Warwick,  by  patent  dated  28th  May,  4ith  king  Ed* 
ward  IV.    Henry  Eari  of  Northumberland  left  a  son, 

Heaary,  the  fourth  Earl,  who,  being  in  his  minwity  when  his  father  was  slain,  was 
committed  to  the  tower  of  London,  till  the  27th  pf  October,  A.  D.  1469f  9th  king 
Edward  IV.  when  he  was  brought  before  the  king  at  Westminster,  and  took  the  oam 
of  allejpanoe,  whereupon  he  was  set  at  liberty,  and  soon  after  restored  to  the  estates 
and  dignities  of  his  .ancestors :  he  was  made  warden  of  the  Middle  Marches  before  his 
restoration  in  blood  and  inheritance,  and  aftarwards  bcxre  many  honourable  connnis- 


464  COQUETDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

^ons  from  the  crown :  he  had  the  chief  command  of  the  army  in  the  22d  year  of  the 
reign  of  king  EdwArd  IV.  which  besieged  and  took  Berwick.  In  the  battle  of  Bos- 
worth  Field,  in  the  8d  year  erf  king  Richard  III.  he  is  charged  (by  Hall  and  Buck) 
as  acting  a  treacherous  part  to  a  sovereign  from  whom  he  had  received  considerable 
marks  of  confidence  ana  esteem,  by  withdrawing  his  troops,  or  otherwise  standing  an 
idle  spectator  of  the  dreadful  conflict  of  that  day.  It  is  certain  he  was  immediatdy 
received  to  the  favour  of  king  Henry  VII.  In  the  fourth  year  of  that  reign,  being 
lieutenant  of  Yorkshire,  he  was  murdered  by  the  populace  at  Coxlodge,  near  Thirsk, 
28th  April,  1489,  on  enforcing  the  tax  for  carrying  on  the  war  in  Brittany.  He 
married  Maud,  daughter  of  William  Herbert,  first  Earl  of  Pembroke  of  that  name, 
by  whom  he  had  issue  four  sons  and  three  daughters.  He  and  his  lady  were  buried 
at  Beverley,  and  a  stately  tomb  erected  over  them.  His  daughter,  Eleanor,  married 
Edward  Stafford,  the  tlurd  Duke  of  Buckingham.  His  younger  son,  Allan  Percy, 
D.  D.  was  the  first  provost  of  St.  John's  Cmlege,  in  Cambridge,  appointed  by  the 
executors  of  the  foundress,  Margaret,  Countess  of  Richmond.  The  sepulture  is  in 
the  inner  chapel  under  a  marble  stone,  plated  with  brass.  On  the  15th  of  September, 
1678,  his  lady's  monument  was  opened,  when  the  body  was  found  in  a  stone  oofiin, 
embalmed  and  covered  with  doth  of  gold^  and  on  her  feet  slipners  embroidered  with 
silk  and  gold,  by  her  side  a  wax  lamp,  and  a  plate  candlesticK  with  a  candle.  His 
lordship's  eldest  son, 

Henry,  the  fifth  Earl,  was,  in  the  12th  year  of  kinff  H«iry  VII.  one  of  the  chief 
commanders  of  the  king's  army  in  the  battle  of  BlacKheath.  The  magnificence  of 
this  Earl  is  mentioned  on  the  marriage  of  Margaret  with  the  king  of  Scots,  when  in 
splendour  he  exceeded  all  the  nobility  present.  Hall  says  he  outdid  them  *'for  the 
richness  of  his  coat,  being  goldsmith's  work  garnished  with  pearle  and  stones ;  ^nd 
for  the  costly  apparel  of  nis  henxmen,  and  gallant  trappers  of  their. horses;  besides 
400  tall  men  well  horsed,  and  apparel'd  in  his  collars :  ne  was  esteemed,  both  of  the 
Scots  and  Englishmen,  more  like  a  prince  than  a  subject.**  He  had  also  with  him  his 
officer  of  arms,  named  Northumberland,  arrayed  in  a  livery  of  vdtet,  bearing  his  ar- 
morial ensignia.  In  fact,  this  Earl  appears  to  have  been  a  nobleman  of  great  magni- 
ficence and  taste,  and  a  generous  patron  of  leanfinff  and  genius.  Of  the  former  we 
have  strong  prooft,  not  only  in  tne  splendour  of  nis  equipment,  above  mentioned, 
when  he  attended  the  queen  of  Scotland,  but  in  the  very  noble  monuments  he  erected 
in  Beverley  Minster  to  his  father  and  mother  i  these  are  executed  in  the  finest  style 
of  €iothic  architecture,  and  remain  to  this  day  lasting  proofs  of  his  love  and  taste  for 
the  arts^  as  well  as  of  his  generosity  and  filial  piety.  He  appears  also  to  have  been  a 
great  promoter  of  learning,  and  was  a  liberal  patron  of  such  ^nius  as  that  age  pro* 
auced«  This  was  the  more  to  his  honour,  as  perhaps  at  no  period  of  time  his  brother 
peers  in  genlerid  were  more  illiterate.  He  encouraged  Skelton,  the  only  professed 
poet  of  that  age,  who  wrote  an  El^y^  on  the  death  of  his  father.  But  he  gave  still 
more  didnterested  proofs  of  his  regard  for  learning,  by  afibrdln^  a  salary  to  a  professor 
to  teach  grammar  and  philosophy  to  the  monks  of  Alnwick  Abbey;  the  particulars 
of  whidb  establishment  may  be  «een  at  large  in  Warton's  History  of  English  Poetry, 
vol.  ii.  who  has  bestowed  a  very  just  and  high  encomium  on  this  noble  Meca^nas  of 
dawning  literature.  He  lived  in  a  state  of  splcfndour  very  mtfch  resneinbling,  and 
scarce  inferior,  to  tha^  of  the  royal  court    The  head  officers  of  his  housdiold  were 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  46d 

geniJemen^  both  by  birth  and  office.  Eleven  priests,  over  whom  a  doctor  or  bachelor 
of  divinity  presided,  belonged  to  the  establishment.  There  were  also  singing  men^ 
choristers,  &c.  for  the  service  of  the  Earl's  chapel.* 

On  the  aecession  of  Henry  VIII.  he  was  continued  in  the  office  of  warden  of  the 
Marches,  whidi  he  had  ffiled  in  the  preceding  reign.  He  served  in  the  French  cam* 
paign»  and  was  present  at  the  battle  of  Spurs.     In  the  14th  of  king  JleDry  VIII.  he 

*  It  uuLj  not  be  uiunteretfting  to  the  render  to  find  here  a  detcripti<m  of  the  Earl's  household^  as  it  exhibits 
the  fashion  of  the  age,  as  well  as  th^  magnifleeiiee  of  the  familj.     It  is  extracted  from  a  book^  entitled,  "  The 
Regulations  and  Establishments  of  Henry  A.  Percy^  the  fifth  Earl  of  Northumberland."    Begun  in  1^12. 
The  ordinal  manuscript  is  in  folio^  on  strong  thick  paper.    In  the  year  1770,  the  then  Duke  of  Northum- 
berland caused  it  to  be  printed  in  one  volume  octavo,  containing  $05  pages,  with  an  excellent  preface.    The 
book  is  an  etact  copy  of  the  MS.  both  in  style  and  orthography,  and  evmtbe  very  errors:  there  are  no  points 
or  stope  in  the  orig^bial,  therefore  none  in  the  printed  copy,  but  the  want  of  them  is  occasionally  supplied  by 
the  proper  disposal  of  the  capital  letters.     The  only  innovation  is  the  subjoining  to  some  articles  the  aJgebraic 
mark  of  equation,  not  then  known.    All  numbers  are  expressed  not  by  figures  but  by  numeral  letters.     It 
contains  many  curious  particulars,  whidi  mark,  the  manners  and  way  of  living  in  that  rude,  not  to  say  barba* 
rous  age,  as  well  a»  the  prict  of  commodities.    A  few  of  them  are  extracted  from  that  piece,  which  gives  a 
tme  pictttre  of  ancient  ttiannersy  and  is  one  of  the  most  singular  monuments  that  English  antiquity  affords  us  } 
foe  we  may  be  confident^  however  rude  the  strdces,  that  no  baron's  family  was  on  a  nobler  or  more  splendid 
footing.     The  family  consists  of  166  persons,  mastera  and  servants ;  57  strangers  are  redconed  upon  eveiy 
day ;  on  the  whole  223.    Twopenee*hal^>enny  is  supposed  to  be  the  daily  expence  of  each  for  meat,  drihk^ 
and  firing.    The  preface  says  !^-"  A  thousand  pounds  was  the  som  assigned  for  keeping  my  Lord's  house^ 
The  number  of  persons  was  l66;  6i,  Os.  5d.  three-fiurthings  each  person  annually,  or  2s.  Sd.  halfpenny  weekly. 
At  a  time  when  wheat  was  sold  at  5s.  8d.  per  quarter,  6/.  Os.  5d.  three-farthings  would  purchase  just  88  qnar* 
ters  S  and  a  half  buahels  of  wheat ;  which,  at  5s.  a  bushel  nfioH  (in  1770),  woold  cost  44/.  17s.  6d.    Gonae* 
quently  at  this  estnnBte  the  annual  proportion  to  each  person  then  was  nearly  equivalent  to  45/.  ]pw  annum 
of  our  present  money :  a  vei^  great  allowance  to  be  distributed  through  so  large  a  family  as  that  of  the  Earl's 
household." 

The  whole  expence  of  the  EarPs  family  is  managed  with  an  exactness  that  ia  very  rigid,  and  if  we  make 
n9  allowance  fi[>r  ancient  iHkuihers,  such  at  may  seem  to  bbrder  on  an  extreme ;  insomuch,  that  the  number  of 
pieces  which  bms^  be  cut  out  of  every  quarter  of  l>eef>  mutton,  pork,  vtel,  nay  stock-fish  and  salmon,  are  de- 
lennined,  and  miist  he  ^enteifed  and  acoouiHed  for  by  the  different  derks  appointed  for  that  purpose.  If  a  ser« 
vant  .be  absent  a-  day  his  mesa'  is  Aruok  off,  If  he  go  on  my  Lord'9  business,  board-wages  are  allowed  him ; 
eightpenoe  a  day  for  bis  journey  in  wiiittr,  and  fivepence  in  summer :  when  he  stays  in  any  place,  twnpeaee 
a  day  Mre  allowed  him  beside  tfa»  maintenanee  ef  his  hone.  Somewhat  above  a  quarter  of  wheat  is  allowed 
for  every  month  throughout  the  year,  and  the  whetit'  is  esdmiited  at  five  shillings  and  eightpence  a  quarter. 
Two  huTldred  and  fifty  quarters  of  malt  are  allowed,  alt  four  shillings  a  quarter.  Two  hogsheads  are  to  be 
made  of  a  qnaKer,  which  amounts  to  above  a  bottie.and  a  third  of  beer  a  day  td  each  pereon,  and  the  beer  will 
not  be  very  strong.  One  hundred  and  nine  fiit  beeVes  ai^  bought  at  All«hallow*tide,  at  thirteen  shiliings.and 
fourpence  a  piece ;  and  twenty-fi>ur  lean  beeves  to  be  bought  at  St.  Helen's,  at  eight  shillings  a  piece.  These 
are  to  be  put  into  the  pasturea  to  feed ;  aild  are  to  serve  from  Midsummer  to  Michaelmas*  which  is  C(»ise« 
quently  the  only  time  that  the  family  eats  fresh  beef.  During  all  the  rest  of  the  year  they  live  on  salted 
meat*  One  hundred  and  sixty  gallonir  of  mustard'  ave  allowed  in  Che  year ;  which  seems  indeed  requisite  for 
the  salt  beef.  Six  huiidred  and  forty-e^venr  sh^p  are  allowed,  at  twenty-pence  each ;  and  these  seem  also  to 
be  eat  salted,  accept  between  Lammas  ttid  Michaelmaa:  Only  Cwenty-five  hogsare  allowed,  at  two  shillings 
eeoh  }  twenty-aight  veals  at  twenty-penite ;  fbtfty  lionbe  at  a  ahiUii^.  Th^e  seem  to  be  reserved  for  my 
Lord's  taUe>  or  that  of  the  i^p^  servoAtsi;  called  the'  kaigjits'  tablft ;  the  other  aervants,  at  they  eat  salted 

VOL.  L  6  B 


466  COQUETDALE  WARD— E.  D. 

was  made  warden  of  the  whole  Marches,  which  office  he  executed  for  a  very  short 
time ;  at  his  own  instance  giving  place  to  the  Earl  of  Surrey.  He  died  in  the  18th 
of  kinff  Henry  VIII.  and  was  buried  at  Beverley.  He  married  Eleanor,  daughter 
and  at  length  heiress  of  Edmund  Beaufort,  Duke  of  Somerset,  by  Eleanor  his  wife, 
daughter  and  heiress  of  Richard  Beauchamp,  Earl  of  Warwick,  who  was  great  grand- 
son of  John  of  Gaunt,  Duke  of  Lancaster.   The  Earl  had  issue  three  sons,  viz.  Jlenry ; 

meat  almost  through  the  whole  year,  and  with  few  or  no  vegetables,  had  a  very  bad  and  unhealthy  diet  So 
that  there  can  be  nothing  more  erroneous  than  the  magnificent  ideas  of  the  Boast  Beef  cf  Old  England, 

We  must  entertain  as  mean  an  idea  of  their  cleanliness.  Only  seventy  ells  of  linen,  at  eightpence  an  elL 
are  annually  allowed  for  this  great  fiunUy.  No  sheets  are  allowed.  This  linen  was  made  into  eight  table- 
cloths for  my  Lord's  table  and  a  table-cloth  for  the  knights.  This  last  was  probably  only  washed  once  a 
month.  Only  forty  shillings  are  allowed  for  washing  throughout  the  whole  year ;  and  most  of  it  seems  ex- 
pended on  the  linen  belonging  to  the  chapel.  The  drinking,  however,  was  tolerable,  namely,  ten  tuns  and 
two  hogsheads  of  Gascony  wine,  at  the  rate  of  4^  13s.  4d.  a  tun ;  only  nitiety-one  dotfen  of  candles  for  the 
whole  year.  The  family  rose  at  six  in  the  morning,  dined  at  ten,  and  supped  at  four  in  the  afternoon.  The 
gates  were  all  shut  at  nine,  and  no  further  ingress  nor  egress  was  permitted. 

My  Lord  and  Lady  have  set  on  their  table  for  breakfittt,  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning,  a  quart  of  beer, 
as  much  wine,  two  pieces  of  salt  fish,  six  red  herrings,  four  white  ones,  and  a  dish  of  sprats.  On  flesh-days 
half  a  chyne  of  mutton,  or  a  chyne  of  boiled  beef.  Mass  is  ordered  to  be  said  at  six  o'clock,  in  order,  says 
the  household  book,  that  all  my  Lord's  servants  may  rise  early.  Only  twenty-*fbnr  fires  are  allowed,  besides 
the  kitchen  and  hall,  and  most  of  these  have  only  a  peck  of  coals  a  day  allowed  theib.  After  Lady-day  no 
fires  are  permitted  in  the  rooms  except  half  fires  to  my  Lord's  and  Lady's,  and  Lord  Percy's  and  the  nursery. 
It  is  to  be  observed  that  my  Lord  kept  house  in  Yorkshire,  where  there  is  certainly  mndi  cold  weather  after 
Lady-day.  Eighty  chaldrons  of  coals,  at  four  shillings  and  two-pence  a  chaldron,  suffices  throughout  the 
whole  year ;  and  because  coal  will  not  bum  without  wood,  says  the  household  book,  sixty-four  loads  of  great 
wood  are  also  allowed,  at  twelve^pence  a  load.     This  is  a  proof  that  grates  were  not  then  used. 

Here  is  an  article — *'  It  is  devised  that  from  henceforth  no  capons  to  be  bought  but  only  for  my  Lord's 
own  mess,  and  that  the  said  capons  be  bought  for  two-pence  a  piece,  lean  and  fed  in  the  poultry :  and  mas- 
ter chamberlain  and  stewards  be  fed  with  capons,  if  there  be  strangers  sitting  with  them."  Pigs  are  to  be 
bought  at  three-pence  or  a  groat  a  piece ;  geese  at  the  same  price,  chickens  at  a  halfpenny,  hens  at  two-pence, 
and  only  for  the  above-mentioned  tables.  Here  is  another  article-—''  liem^  it  is  thought  that  no  good  plovers 
be  bought  at  no  season  but  only  Christmas  and  principal  fieasts,  and  my  Lord  to  be  served  therewith,  and  his 
board  end,  and  no  other,  and  to  be  bought  for  a  penny  a  piece  at  most,  or  a  halfpenny.  Woodcocks  are  to  be 
bought  at  the  same  price,  partridges  at  two-pence,  pheasants  at  a  shilling,  peacocks  the  same." 

My  Lord  keeps  only  twenty-seven  horses  at  his  own  charge;  his  upper  servants  have  allowance  for  main- 
taining their  own  horses.  These  horses  are,  six  gentle  horses,  as  they  are  called,  at  hay  and  hard  meat 
throughout  the  year ;  four  palfreys,  three  hobbies  and  nags,  three  sumpter  horses ;  six  horses  for  those  ser- 
vants for  whom  my  lord  furnishes  a  horse,  two  sumpter  horses  more,  and  three  mill-horses,  two  for  carrying 
the  com,  and  one  for  grinding  it ;  whence  we  may  infer  that  mills,  either  water  or  windmills,  were  then  un<k 
known,  at  least  very  rare.  Besides  these,  there  are  seven  great  trotting  horses  for  the  chariot  or  waggon. 
He  allows  a  peck  of  oats  a  day,  besides  loaves  made  of  beans,  for  his  principal  horses ;  the  oats  at  twenty-* 
pence,  the  beans  at  two  shillings  a  quarter.  The  load  of  bay  is  at  two  shillings  and  eight-pence.  When  my 
Lord  is  on  a  journey,  he  carries  thirty-six  horses  along  with  him,  together  with  bed  and  other  accommoda- 
tion. The  inns,  ft  seems,  could  afford  nothing  tolerable.  My  Lord  passes  the  year  in  three  country  seats, 
all  in  Yorkshire ;  Wrysel,  Leckenfield,  and  Topdifle ;  but  he  has  furniture  only  for  one :  he  carries  eveiy 
thing  along  with  him,  beds,  tables,  chairs,  kitchen  utensils,  all  whidi  we  may  conclude  were  so  coarse  thi^ 
they  could  not  be  spoiled  by  the  carriage ;  yet  seventeen  carts  and  one  waggon  suffices  for  the  whole    One 


ALNWICK  PAMSBt.  467 

Thomas,  a  party  in  Ask's  conspiracy,  was  amdgned  before  the  Marquis  of  Exet^, 
high  steward,  and  executed  at  Tyburn  S9th  king  Henry  VIII. ;  from  him  the  sue- 
ceeding  Earls  of  Northumberland  descended ;  and  Ingeham,  who  died  without  issue. 
He  had  also  two  daughters,  viz.  Margaret,  married  Henry  Lord  Clifford,  the  first 
Earl  of  Cumberland  of  that  name :  and  Maud,  married  John  Liord  Comrer,  whose 
heiress,  Mar^ret,  married  Sir  Arthur  Darcy,  knt.  ancestor  of  the  Earl  of  Holdemesse, 
who  in  her  rirfit  is  Lord  Conyers, 

The  sixth  Earl  Henry  was  deeply  in  love  with  the  fair  Anne  Bullen,  but  by  the 
art  of  Cardinal  Wolsey,  and  even  the  royal  interposition,  was  withdrawn  from  an 
attachment  which,  it  is  said,  gave  great  anxiety  to  the  sovereign.  Notwithstanding 
the  Earl's  early  affection  for  the  C^dinal,  in  1580  he  was  one  of  the  king's  commis- 
sioners to  anrest  him  for  high  treason.  He  was  summoned  to  the  parliament  at 
Westminster,  21  king  Henry  VIII.  1580 ;  when  both  the  archbishops,  two  dukes, 
two  marquisses,  his  lordship  and  twelve  other  earls,  four  bishops,  twenty-five  barons, 
twenty-two  abbots,  and  eleven  knights  and  doctors,  signed  the  famous  letter  or  decla- 
ration to  the  pope,  conceming  abuses  in  the  church.  He  was  warden  of  the  East  and 
Middle  Marches,  and  one  of  the  Knights  of  the  Garter.  He  married  Mary,  daughter 
of  George  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  and  cued  without  issue. 

As  his  brother  Thomas  had  been  attainted,  the  earldom  of  Northumberland  for 
some  time  remained  dormant.  Queen  Mary  restored  Thomas,  the  nephew,  to  the 
honours  and  estates  of  his  ancestors,  the  patent  setting  forth  that  the  same  was  done 
**  in  consideration  of  his  noble  descent,  constancy  of  virtues,  valour  in  deeds  of  arms, 

cart  saffices  for  his  kitchen  utensils^  cooks'  beds,  ftc.  One  remarkable  drcumstance  is,  that  he  has  seven 
priests  in  his  house,  besides  sefventeen  persons,  chapters,  musicians,  &c.  belonging  to  his  chapel;  yet  he  has 
only  two  cooks  for  a  fiunily  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-three  pers<ms.  But  in  p.  SSS,  mention  is  made  of 
four  cooks.  Perhaps  the  two  servants,  called  in  p.  325,  groom  of  the  larder,  and  diild  of  the  scullery,  are,  in 
p.  SSB,  comprehended  in  the  number  of  cooks.  Their  meals  were  certainly  dressed  in  the  slovenly  manner 
of  a  ship's  company.  It  is  amusing  to  observe  the  pompous  and  even  royal  style  assumed  by  this  Tartar 
chief:  he  does  not  give  any  orders,  though  only  for  the  right  making  of  mustard,  but  it  is  used  with  this 
preamble  :<—>''  It  seemeth  good  to  us  and  our  counciL"  Yet  the  Earl  is  sometimes  not  deficient  in  generositjr ; 
he  pays,  for  instance,  an  annual  pension  of  a  groat  a  year  to  my  lady  of  Wakinghara,  for  her  interest  in  hea« 
Ten ;  and  the  same  sum  to  the  holy  blood  at  Hales.  No  mention  is  any  where  made  of  plate,  but  only  of  the 
hiring  of  pewter  vessels.  The  servants  seem  all  to  have  bought  their  own  clothes  from  their  wages.  Neither 
is  any  glass  mentioned.     It  only  came  in  use  about  1557. 

Specimens  <^the  Spelling: — "  Rewards  to  Playars  for  Playes  playd  in  Chrystymas  by  Stranegers  in  my 
house  after  xx  d.  every  Play  by  estimation.  Somme  xzxiii  s.  iiij  d.  in  full  oontentaction  of  the  said  rewardys. 
Every  rokker  in  the  nurcy  shall  have  by  yere  xx  n." 

The  following  quotation  from  the  author  of  Medical  Extracts  will  shew,  that  our  ancestors  in  general  were 
not  eminent  for  their  abstemiousness : — Of  Breakfast — As  our  ancestors  breakfasted  early,  they  dined  also 
early,  and  had  at  least  two  meals  after  this,  as  appears  from  the  allowance  appointed  for  a  Lady  Lucy,  who 
seems  to  have  been  one  of  the  maids  of  honour  in  the  court  of  Henry  VIII.  I  may  be  allowed  to  mention 
their  articles  of  food,  as  a  matter  of  curiosity,  to  shew  in  what  manner  the,^  ladies  lived  in  those  days. 
This  lady  was  allowed  for  breakfast,  a  chine  of  beef,  a  loaf,,  and  a  gallon  of  ale.  For  Dtnner— The  same  lady 
who  had  so  solid  a  breakfast,  had  for  dinner  a  piece  of  boiled  beef,  a  slice  of  roasted  meat,  and  a  gallon  of 
ale.  For  Supper^-^A  mess  of  porridge,  a  piece  of  mutton,  a  cheat,  or  finer  loaf,  and  a  gallon  of  ale.  To  be 
sociable  after  ^loffgtr,  there  was  left  on  the' table  a  manchette  loaf,  a  gallon  of  ale,  and  half  a  gallon  of  wine* 


m  COQUETOALE  WAJtDr^E.  D- 

and  other  ehinii^  qualifications."  The  ceremony  of  the  creatioii  of  this  seventh  Eari^ 
at  Whitehall,  was  attended  with  great  pomp.  He  was  joined  with  Lord  Wharton  as 
Wardens  Gieneral  of  the  Marches,  with  very  extensive  powers,  A.  D.  1557.  He 
commanded  against  the  Scots,  who  made  an  incursdon  the  same  year,  and  giving  them 
hattle  near  Cheviot,  obtained  a  complete  victory.  He,  with  his  brother  Henry,  hav- 
ing  entered  Scotland  in  the  following  year,  obtained  a  victory  over  the  Scotdi  near 
Swinton ;  and  the  same  year  engaged  the  French  auxiliaries  with  equal  success  near 
Grindon.  His  lordship  carried  the  sword  of  state  before  the  queen  to  the  parliament 
house,  5  queen  Marvt  1563.  He  was  one  of  the  eleven  lords  who  protested  against 
the  validitv  of  English  ordinations,  8  queai  Elizabeth.  In  jealousy  of  Lord  Cecdl's 
power  with  that  queen,  he  entered  into  the  northern  conspiracy,  and  at  length  ap« 
peared  in  open  rebellion.  Having  fled  into  Scotland,  he  was  betrayed  and  ddivared 
up,  and  in  the  13  th  year  of  queen  Elizabeth  he  and  his  Countess  were  convicted  of 
high  treason  and  outlawed;  and,  on  the  SSd  of  August,  1572,  he  was  beheaded  at 
York,  avowipg  with  his  last  breath  the  pope's  supremacy,  affirming  the  realm  to  be  a 
schism,  and  the  subjects  who  were  obediait  to  the  quern  no  better  tnan  hareticsw*  He 
married  Ann,  daughter  of  Henry  Somerset,  Earl  of  Wqroestor,  by  vrhom  he  hod  one 
son  and  five  daughters :  the  son  died  without  issue 

The  patent  of  restoration  made  by  queen  Mary  having  limited  iltie  titles  and  estates 
to  the  late  Earl's  heirs  male,  and  in  default  of  such  issue,  to  Henry  Percy,  theEarrs 
brother,  in  the  18tli  of  queen  Eliaabeth,  he  was  summoned  to  parliament  by  the  dis« 
tinction  of  Earl  of  Northumberland  and  Baron  Percy.  On  his  brother's  defection,  he 
stood  loyal  to  the  queen,  and,  with  Sir  John  Forster,  commanded  the  troops  which, 
on  the  9th  of  December,  in  the  12th  of  queen  Elizabeth,  routed  the  Earl  of  West- 
mordand's  forces  in  the  bishopric  of  Durham.  In  the  STth  year  of  queen  Ehzabetfa, 
being  suspected  of  plotting  to  set  at  liberty  the  queen  of  Scots,  he  was  committed 
prisoner  to  the  Tower ;  and,  on  the  21st  of  June,  was  found  dead  in  his  bed,  having 
three  shots  from  a  pistol  lodged  under  his  left  pap,  his  chamber  door  being  fastened 
on  the  inside.  He  married  Catherine,  eldest  daughter  and  cohriress  of  John  NeviO, 
Lord  Latimer,  by  whom  he  had  issue  eight  sons  and  three  daughters. 

Heniy ,  his  eldest  son,  the  ninth  Earl,  succeeded  him.  He  was  one  of  those  volun- 
teer lords  who  hired  vessels  to  accompany  Charles  Lord  Howard,  Lord  High  Admi- 
ral, against  the  Spanish  Armada.  Bemg  suspected  as  an  accomplice  in  the  Gunpowder 
Plot,  he  suffered  a  long  and  grievous  confinement  in  the  tower ;  his  sentence  being 
an  imnrisonment  for  life,  and  a  fine  of  £30,000,  though  he  was  convicted  in  the  Star 
Chamber  for  misprision  of  treason  only.  In  1614,  he  paid  his  fine,  but  he  did  not 
gain  his  liberty  till  the  18th  of  July,  1621,  having  been  confined  fifteen  years.f    In 

*  The  northern  provinces  had  a  deep  attachment  to  the  ancient  faith.  This  feelings  "  which  lay  like  lees 
at  the  bottom  of  men's  hearts,  and,  if  the  vessel  was  ever  so  little  stirred,  came  up  to  the  top,**  was  acted 
upon  by  the  Earl  of  Northumberland^  who^  in  this  rebellion,  displayed  the  cross  and  the  five  wounds  of 
Christ.  But  the  Northumbrian  priests  at  this  period  were  not  distinguished  fbr  piety  and  civilisation. 
Bishop  Pilkington  describes  them  as  going  with  ^'  swords  and  daggers,  and  such  coarse  apparel  as  they  could 
get^  not  regarding  colour  or  fashion." 

t  Wood,  in  Ms  Athenae  Ozoniensis,  says,  "  That  the  Rer.M^.  Nathaniel  Torporl«y^  a  noted  mathanadcian, 
being  made  known  to  the  great  Earl  of  Northumberland,  Henry  Percy,  the  gesefwa  ftiFforer  of  all  good 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  469 

the  4th  year  of  kiiiff  Charles  I.  hi8.k»pdBhip  obtained  a  oonfinnatioli  to  hun  and  the 
heirs  msue  of  his  body,  of  the  title  and  dignity  of  Baron  Percy,  in  as  ample  a  manner 
as  his  ancestors  had  enjoyed  the  same.  He  med  at  his  seat  at  Petworth,  on  the  6th 
of  November^  16da.  He  married  Dorothy,  daughter  of  Walter  Devereux,  Earl  of 
Bssex,  by  whom  he  had  issue  four  sons  and  two  daughters.  His  two  eldest  sons 
dying  in  infancy,  he  was  succeeded  in  title  and  estates  by  his- third  son,  Algernon. 

Algernon,  the  tenth  Earl  of  Northumberland,  was  about  thirty  years  of  age  when 
he  succeeded  to  the  honours  of  his  ancestors.  Lord  Clarendon  says,  *'  that  the  king 
took  him  into  his  immediate  and  eminent  care,  and  prosecuted  him  with  all  manner 
and  demonstration  of  respect  and  kindness ;  and  (as  he  heard  his  majesty  himself  say) 
courted  him  as  his  mistress,  and  conversed  with  him  as  his  friend,  without  the  least 
interruption  or  intermission  of  any  possible  favour  and  kindness."  He  attended  king 
Charles  I.  into  Scotland,  oa  his  coronation.  In  the  11th  year  ci  that  reign,  he  was 
installed  one  of  the  Knights  of  the  Garter ;  and  in  the  IStn  year,  he  was  made  Lord 
High  Admiral  of  England.  In  the  15th,  he  was  made  Captain  Greneral  of  the  army ; 
and  in  1639»  his  lordship  was  at  the  •head  of  state  a£birs..  In  a  letter  to  the  Earl  of 
Leicester,  he  thus  expressed  his  sentiments  of  public  matters :  ^  It  grieves  my  soul  to 
be  involved  in  these  councils ;  and  the  sense  I  have  of  the  miseries  that  are  like  to 
ensue,  is  held  by  some  a  disaffection  in  me ;  but  I  regard  little  what  those  persons 
say."  In  1643,  he,  with  the  Earls  of  Pembroke  and  Sfuisbury,  and  sevaral  members 
of  the  House  of  Commons,  were  indicted  of  high  treason  at  Salisbury,  before  Judges 
Heath,  Forster,  and  Glanvill,  for  assistinff  the  parliament ;  but  they  could  not  induce 
tha  jury  to  find  the^faill,  On  the  17th  of  May,  1645,  by  order  of  the  Lords,  the  Earl 
and  Countess  were  directed  to  take  care  of  the. king's  children.  His  lordship,  though 
acting  under  many  commissions  of  parliament,  '^detested  the  cruel  murder  <rf  his 
majesty,  and  did  his  utmost  to  obstruct  it."  After  which  he  retired  from  puMic  bu- 
siness, Uving  at  his  seat  at  Petworth,  waiting  for  a  favourable  opportunity  to  restore 
king  Charles  II. .  in  which  be  took  an  active  part.  He  was  twice  married ;  by  Anne, 
dau^ter  of  William  Cecal,  Eari  of  Salisbury,  his  first  wife,  he  had  five  daughters. 
By  Elizabeth,  daughter  to  Theophilus,  Earl  of  Suffolk,  he  had  issue  Josceline,  his 
only  son  and  soeoessor.  Jie  died  the  lath  of  October,  1688,  and  was  interred  at 
Petworth. 

i  •  • 

laAvning,  wtm  rto6}ved  into  kts  jiatron«sie»9  wad  had  a  penskm  paid  yearly  unto  lum,  aevcfiit  yean  ftom  hit 
purse.  Thoraasr  Hariol  n^itt,  in  15S4»  uriAi  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  to  Virginia,  whero  he  waa  employed  in  the 
discovery  and  surYeyiag  tbereaf.  After  bis  return  kito  Bngiand,  Sir  Walter  introduced  him  to  the  acquaint- 
ance  of  that  noble  and  geaerous  Earl,  wbo,  finding  him  a  gentleman  of  an  affable  and  peaceable  nature,  and 
well  read  in  the  obscure  parts  of  learning,  allowed  him  a  yeariy  pension  of  120/.  About  the  same  time,  Ro* 
bert  Hues  and  Walter  Warner,  two  other  mathematicians,  who  were  known  also  to  the  Earl,  did  also  receive 
of  him  yearly  pensions,  but  of  less  value  i  as  did  Torperly.  So  that  when  the  earl  was  committed  prisoner 
to  the  tower,  in  1606,  Hariot,  Hues,  and  Warner,  were  his  constant  companions,  and  were  usually  called  the 
Earl  of  Northumberland's  three  Magi.  They  had  a  table  at  the  fiarl's  charge,  who  did  constantly  c»nverse 
with  them  and  with  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  then  in  the  tower." 

**  Their  prison,"  says  Wallis,  "  was  an  academy,,  whure  'their  thoughts  were  elevated  above  the  common 
cares  of  life,  explored  science  in  all  it^  pleasing  fbtms,  penetrated  her  most  intricate  recesses,  and  surveyed 
the  whole  globe,  till  Sir  Waher's  noble  fkbrfc  arosei  tts  H[istory  rf  tiic  World,  probably  by  the  encouragement 
and  persnasKins  vtf  these  his  learned  flfiends,** 

VOL.  I.  6  e 


4ro  COQUETD ALE  WARD—K  D. 

His  lordfihip^s  brbtiier,  Hemy  Percy,  was  a  rmresentattve  in  pairliament  tor  Norths 
timberland,  but  was  expelled  the  9th  of  December,  17  king  Charles  I.  1641,  for  en^ 
deavouring  to  engage  the  northern  army  to  free  his  majesty  from  the  eontroul  of  the 
parliament  He  was  betrayed,  after  a  solemn  oath  taken,  by  Cokmel  Goring,  after^ 
wards  a  general  of  horse  under  the  Earl  of  Newcastle.  W  ith  some  difficulty  and 
peril  he  escaped  their  vengeance.  History  has  drawn  his  character  in  most  amiable 
colours.  The  king  created  him  a  peer,  by  the  style  and  title  of  Baron  Percy,  of  Aln- 
wick, 28th  June,  1648.  He  also  made  him  lord  chamberlain,  and  gave  him  in  charge 
the  conduct  of  his  queen  to  Oxford.  When  the  power  of  the  parliament  was  too 
enormous  to  oppose,  he  retreated  beyond  sea. 

Josceline,  the  eleventh  Earl  of  Northumberland,  married  the  Lady  Elizabeth^ 
daughter  of  Thomas  Earl  of  Southampton,  lord  high  treasurer  of  England.  He  was 
ma^  lord  lieutenant  and  custos  rotulorum  of  the  county  of  Sussex,  and  lord  lieute- 
nant of  the  county  of  Northumberland.  On  the  21st  of  May,  1670,  he  died  at  Turin, 
was  brought  to  England,  and  interred  at  Petworth.  The  celebrated  Mr.  Locke  was 
his  physician.  He-  had  issue  an  only  sc»i,  Henry,  who  died  in  infancy,  and  two 
daughters,  E^zabeth  and  Henrietta,  tibe  latter  of  which  died  at  four  years  of  age. 

His  only  daughter,  Elizabeth  Percy,  inherited  his  splendid  fortune,  and  the  ancient 
baronies  of  the  famihr.  Being  so  great  an  heiress,  she  was  married  three  times  while 
a  minor :  First,  to  Henry  Cavencush,  Earl  of  Ogle,  son  and  heir  to  the  Duke  of 
Newcastle,  who  died  in  a  short  time  after,  leaving  no  issue.  She  was  next  married 
to  Thomas  Thynne,  Esq.  of  Longleate,  in  the  county  of  Wilts ;  but  he  was  assasi- 
nated  in  Pall-mall,  by  some  ruffians,  hired  by  Count  Coningsmarch,  whose  object  was 
to  marry  the  widow.  Her  third  husband  was  the  Duke  of  Somerset,  and  she  was 
still  a  minor,  as  was  also  the  Duke.  By  his  grace,  her  ladyship  had  issue  seven  sons 
and  six  daughters :  one  only  of  such  daughters  left  issue,  viz.  Catharine  Seymour^ 
wife  of  Sir  William  Wyndham,  Bart  whose  eldest  son,  Charles,  Earl  of  Ecremont, 
had  the  possessions  of  the  ancient  Earls  of  Northumberland  in  Sussex  Yorkshire,  and 
Cumberbnd.  Her  grace  died  in  1722,  on  which  her  eldest  surviving  son,  Algernon 
Seymour,  Duke  of  Somerset  and  Earl  of  Hertford,  was  created  Ekffl  of  Northumberland. 

The  Earl  married  Frances  Thynne,  daUghta*  and  coheir  of  Henry,  only  son  of 
Thomas,  first  Viscount  Weymouth,  by  whom  he  had  issue  only  one  dau^ter  and 
one  son,  George  Viscount  B^uchamp,  who  dying  unmarried  in  1744,  all  the  baronial 
honours  of  her  father,  together  with  the  estates  of  the  ancient  Earls  Percys  in  Mid- 
dleseit  and  Northumberland,  comprising  the  several  baronies  of  Percy,  Lucy,  Pdyn- 
ings,  Fitz-Payne,  Bryan,  &c.  descend^  to  his  only  daughter  and  heiress,  KUzabeth, 
who  married,  July  16,  1740,  Sir  Hugh  Smithsoh,  son  of  Langdale  Smithsbn, 
Esq.  by  Philadelphia,  daughter  of  W.  Keveley,  of  Newby,  ill  the  couilty  of  York, 
Es^.  Upon  the  death  of  his  grandfather  (Sir  Hugh  Smithson,  of  Stanwick,  Bart.), 
which  happened  in  1729,  he  succeeded  to  the  title  of  baronet,  and  to  his  grandfather^s 
estate ;  and  upon  the  death  of  his  relation^  ttugh  Smithson,  Esq.  of  Tottenham,  he 
came  into  the  possession  of  other  estates  in  Yorkshire  and  Middlesex ;  and  also  suc- 
ceeded his  relation  as  knight  of  the  shire  for  the  county  of  Midillesex,  which  he  re- 
presented in  parliament.  Etis  lordship,  in  1752,  was  appointed  one  of  the  lords  of 
the  bedchamber  to  king  George  II.  In  1757,  he  was  installed  Knight  of  the  Garter 
St  Windsor.    In  1762,  he  was  appointed  lord  chamberlain  to  the  queen»  and  a  privy 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  *fl 


oransellor ;  also,  loid  fieutenant  of  the  counties  of  Middlesex,  Northumberland,  and 
Newcastle  upon  Tyna  In  176S,  he  was  honoured  with  the  high  and  princely  office 
of  lord  lieutenant  of  Iidland.  He  was  created  Duke  of  Northumberland  and  Earl 
Percy,  to  him  and  the  heirs  male  of  his  body,  by  patent,  October  22, 1766 ;  and  Lord 
Louvaine,  Baron  of  Alnwick,  with  remainder  to  Algernon,  his  second  son,  and  the 
heirs  male  of  his  body,  by  patent,  January  36,  1784.  In  177^9  his  grace  was  ap« 
pcmited  master  of  the  horse,  which  he  reigned  in  1781.  By  his  illustrious  consort^ 
his  grace  had  issue  two  sons  and  one  daughter,  viz.  Hugh,  the  late  Duke ;  Elizabeth* 
Anne^Frances  Percy,  bom  April  6,  1744,* and  died  May  27>  1761,  unmarried;  aAd 
Algernon,  the  present  Earl  of  Beverley. 

With  a  princ^  fortune,  his  ffrace  sustained  his  exalted  rank  through  life  with  the 
greatest  dignity,  generosity,  ana  splendour,  and  will  ever  be  considered  as  <me  of  the 
first  characters  of  the  age  of  which  he  constituted  so  distinguished  an  oman^ent.  He 
was  a  very  conspicuous  instance  of  what  great  things  may  be  done  by  common  care^ 
working  upon  large  property.  The  estabushment  of  his  grace  was  as  magnificent  as 
it  was  possible  for  any  ]^gUsh  nobleman  to  be.  He  had  at  all  times  three  mansjoup 
houses,  and  at  last  four,  in  occasional  use.  He  was  a  constant  encoura^er  of  literature 
and  the  polite  arts,  and  his  generous  patronage  of  every  kind  of  raent  elevated  him 
highly  in  the  public  esteem.    He  spent  immense  sums  in  vay  costly  decorations ; 

Slctunes  bv  every  master — even  for  cofHCs  he  gave  AOO  guineas  each ;  gardening  by 
rowne ;  ouildings  by  Adams.  In  the  two  last  articles  he  is  supposed  to  have  spent 
dxty  or  eigh^  thousand  pounds.  The  tasteful  manner  in  whicn  he  repaired  the  an- 
dent  castle  of  Alnwick  has  been  before  alluded  to ;  and  the  spirited  improvements 
which  he  has  made  in  the  town  of  Alnwick,  and  the  adjacent  country,  are  monuments 
which  will  recal  his  memory  to  the  grateful  rememlxremce  of  posterity.  He  dotbed 
his  extensive  estates  with  woods,  and  improved  them  with  agriculture.  For  more 
than  twenty  years,  the  number  of  trees  annually  planted  out  by  his  grace  in  this 
county,  were  from  eleven  to  twelve  hundred  thousand,  and  upwards :  and  he  some* 
times  planted  in  one  year  not  less  than  three  hundred  acres  in  one  enclosure. 

His  consort,  Elizabeth,  Duchess  of  Northumberland,  who  had  been  for  many  years 
one  of  the  ladies  of  the  bedchamber  to  the  late  queen,  bein^  so  appointed  in  1761, 
but  who  had  resigned  that  honour  some  years  before  h&r  death,  on  account  of  her  de- 
dining  h^th,  departed  this  life  at  Noffthumberland  House,  December  dth,  1776, 
bdng  tier  birth^day,  on  which  she  had  completed  her  sixtieth  year ;  and  was  interred 
in  her  family  vault  in  St  Nicholas's  Chapd,  Westminster,  December  18th  following. 
Her  extensive  diarities  to  the  poor,  her  aicouragement  of  literature  and  the  polite 
arts,  and  her  generous  patronage  of  every  kind  of  merit ;  her  warm  attachment  to  her 
friends,  her  goodness  to  her  servants,  not  to  mention  her  tender  affection  for  her 
family,  made  her  death  a  public  loss,  and  caused  it  to  be  deeply  lamented. 

His  grace  survived  his  amiable  lady  teti  years,  and  died  June  6,  1786.  Four  yean 
previous  to  his  decease,  he  resigned  all  his  situations  about  the  court.  He  was  elected, 
m  the  most  flattering  manner,  president  of  the  Middlesex  Hospital  and  Westminster 
Infirmary :  he  also  held  the  office  of  president  of  the  Small-pox  Hospital,  and  a  trus^ 
tee  of  the  British  Museum,     He  was  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son, 

Hugh  Percy,  seomd  Duke  of  Northumberland,  was  first  married  in  July,  1764,  to 
Lady  Anne  Stuart,  third  daughter  of  John  Earl  of  Bute ;  by  whom  he  had  no  issue : 


472  COQUETDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

this  marriage  was  dissolved  bf  act  of  porlianMiit.  The  marriage  has  faj  aome  ]wrsoiis 
been  ascribed  to  the  inftuenoe  of  the  late  prinoeas  doira^  of  Welm ;  for  as  Lord 
Bute's  eldest  daughter  had  married  Sir  James  Lowther,  afterwards  Earl  of  LoDsdale^ 
these  two  marriages  would  have  united  the  two  great  estates  of  die  north  in  the  same 
famity.  But  the  caprice  of  fortune  overturned  this  project^  and  gave  to  his  gnce  a 
lady  of  exemplary  virtue  and  amiable  mannws.  In  the  month .  of  May,  1779»  his 
grace  married,  secondly.  Miss  Frances  Julia  Burrell,  third  daii^^iter  of  Peter  BiurieU^ 
Esq.  of  Beckenham,  in  Kent  ;*  by  whom  he  had  issue,  Charlotte,  born  in  July,  1780, 
died  in  May,  1781 ;  Elizabeth,  bom  Deoember  2S,  1781,  died  cm  Mondi^  the  10th 
of  January,  1820,  at  Little  Sion,  in  Middlesex,  most  deeply  lamioited ;  Julia,  bom 
May  e,  1788,  died  March  26,  1812;  Hugh  and  Agnes,  twins^  bom  Ajnil  80, 1785; 
Agnes  married,  September,  18S1,  F.  Thomas,  Esq.  son  of  Major-general  BuUer,  of 
Laareth,  Cornwall ;  Henry  Hotrour,  bom  in  June,  1787,  since  deceased ;  Amelia^  bom 
February  7, 1789,  married  hi  May,  1810,  to  Lord  James  Murray,  second  son.  of  the 
Duke  of  Athol ;  Frances,  bom  September  IS,  1791^  died  in  August^  1808 ;  and  AU 
gemon,  bom  I^oemlMr  15, 1792^  an  officer  in  the  navy,  and  created  Lord  Frudhoe^ 
Baron  of  Pru^Qioe  Castle  in  Northumberland,  on  the.  14th  of  August,  1816.  The 
Duchess  Dowager  of  Northumbaland  died  April  £8, 18S0. 

The  Duke  early  devoted  himself  to  a  military  life :  he  was  in  the  war  of  Oermany 
with  Prince  Ferdinand,  and  then  gave  presages  of  that  sldll  and  courage  whidi  he 
afterwards  so  eminently  displayed  in  thi^  war  in  Amerioa,  and  which*  in  the  impwtant 
action  ci  Lexington,  and  the  rednetion  of  Fort  Washington,  &c.  have  placed  his 
grace's  name  amongst  the  heroes  of  Britain.  In  1777»  the  ministry  proposed  to  send 
mis  young  nobleman  as  head  of  a  commission  to  offer  t^rms  of  conciliation  to  the 
American  Congress,  His  IcHrdshin  having  been  ill  treated  by  Lwd  Nordi,  who  had 
made  the  Hon.  Major-general  Alexander  Mackay  governor  of  lynemouth  Castie, 
ttfter  the  place  had  been  pmmised  to  him  by  a  great  personage,  stipulated  upon  this 
occasion  mr  the  honour  or  liie  garter,  which  being  refused,  his  lorddbip  declined  ao* 
cepting  the  commission.    His  grace  was  chosen  member  for  Westminster  in  several 

EarHaments,  and  took  his  seat  in  the  House  of  Peers  November  SO,  1777 ;  after  which 
e  ceased  to  take  any  active  part  in  public  affidrs.  An  ill  rtate  of  h€«dth  ohHj^  bim 
to  go  often  to  Lisbon,  for  the  benefit  of  that  salubriouft  atmosphere.  He  principaUy 
attended  to  the  improvement  of  his  estates,  the  comforts  of  domestic  linioity,  and 
occasionally,  when  Important  subjects  required  it,  to  his  duties  in  parliameiit.  Some-, 
times  he  displayed  gi«at  spirit  and  firmness  in  resisting  measures  wbkh  he  considcted 
to  be  unconstitutional ;  and  at  all  times  he  carefully  avoided  the  oontraeted  views  and 
mischievous  prejudices  of  a  party.  The  magnificent  and  splendid  style  in  which  this 
nobleman  lived,  and  the  encouragement  he  gave  to  the  pvomotion  of  genius  and  sci« 
ence,  reflected  honour  u])on  himself  and  his  country.  The  agriculture  of  his  ample 
domains  was  improved  with  great  spirit  and  liberality ;  and,  by  the  adoption  of  the 

*  While  Mr.  Burrell  resided  at  Spa  in  Germany^  fbr  the  recovei'y  of  his  healthy  hh  daughters  ministered  to 
his  ease  and  comfort  with  such  exemplary  duty  and  affection,  as  to  procure  them  the  esteem  and  admiratSoa 
of  all  the  English  who  visited  that  place.  The  Earl  of  Beverley  married  one  daughter ;  die  Thxke  of  Hamik 
tbki  another^  who  afterwards  martied  the  Matquis  of  Exeter;  and  the  Duke  of  Northombcifa&d  die  third 
daiughter.  ' 


ALNWICK  PARISH-  478 

b^ievolent  eottage  system,  hundreds  of  fami&s  wera  placed  ia  a  state  e£  indepen- 
dence and  competence.  His  extensive  and  mmiiftcent  aot$  of  benevolence  to  the  m^ 
digait  and  distvessed,  with  his  xaaaiy  acts  of  hummtity  and  hosfidtality,  contributed  to 
phiee  him  at  the  head  of  iibe  Engfish  nobility.  The  magniilcence  of  Ahiwick  Castle^ 
(he  great  baronial  seat  of  the  anci^it  Earls  cuP  Northumberland :  the  elegance  of  Sion 
House,  whidi  for  taste  and  beautv  is  scarce  to  be  paralleled  in  Europe;  the  stateliness 
of  Ndl^umberiand  House,  the  mushed  model  of  a  palace  for  the  town  residence  of  a 
great  nobleman,  were  all  kept  up  with  unrivalled  sfJend^^ur,  and  at  the  same  time 
with  a  judicious  and  well  regulated  eoanomy;  grandeui:  without  ostentation^  pru«* 
dence  without  parsimony,  and  dignity  without  meanness. 

When  England  was  menaced  with  an  invaaon  from  Franee  durbiK  the  late  war> 
his  graoe,  with  the  approbation  of  his  sovereign,  raisedi  disciplined,  paio,  and  clothed^ 
upwards  of  1500  of  his  own  hardy  tenantry,  oomprizing  rimmen,  cavalry,  «^  artil* 
lery,  at  the  head  of  which  he  placed  his  ddest  son ;  whilst  his  sooond  son  waa  rtud3ring 
naval  tactics  on  board  one  of  his  migesty's  diips  of  war.  This  diatmguished  noUeman 
died  July  10, 1817^  in  die  7Sth  year  of  his  age,  and  was  interred  with  great  pomp  in 
Westminster  Abbey.  His  gmce  wm  a  general  in  the  army«  and  colonic  oi  nie  rc^al 
horse  guards,  Lond  Lieutenant  and  Vice  Admiral  'Of  Northumberland  and  Newcastle 
upon  Tyne,  one  of  the  CouncU  of  State  of  the  Prinae  of  Wales  in  Cornwall,  Consta- 
ble <tf  Launceston  Castle,  and  High  Steward  of  Launceston,  K.  O.  aad  F.  R.  S.  He 
#as  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son, 

The  most  noble  and  puiasant  Hugh  Percy,  thivd  Duke  and  Earl  of  Northumbeir- 
land,  Eaii  and  Baron  Percy,  Baron  liucy,  Foyninga,  Fitz-Payne,  Bryai^  I#atim«r^ 
and  Warkwortii,  and  Baronet;  Lord  Lieutottnt  and  Cmtos  Rotworum  of  the 
cennity  of  Northumberland,  and  of  the  town  s&d  wanty  of  the  town  of  Newcastle 
upon  Tyne,  V4ct  Admiral  of  Ihe  same  and  oi  ittie  inaritime  parts  thereof;  Doctor  of 
Laws  of  the  Umvenrity  of  Cambridge.  He  irepnesenteNi  both  Westminster  and 
Nor1iiumbet4ilnd  m  parUatnent.  In  lAlA,  he  waa  calkd  to  the  Haiiae  of  Pe^s  by 
the  style  aftd  title  «f  Bavoh  Pen^.  He  was  mairiad»  on  t^e  €1^  of  April,  181 7>  to 
ChaiSotte-Fbrentia,  the  younger  daiu^ter  of  Ae  Right  Honourable  Edward  Clive, 
Karl  of  9(>wi»,  Viscoiiin  CMve  of  Ludh)w,  Baron  Herbert  of  Cherbury,  hotihi  in  Salop, 
Baron -Clh;^  of  WisieDt,  in  Saloqp  in  Engknd/  Baron  CGve  of  Plassey,  in  the  oounty 
of  Clare  in  Ifdand;  ivy  HemJetta^Airtonia,  daughter  0f  Henry- Arthur,  Earl:<of 
Powis.  Her  grace  was  bom  September  12,  1787.  The  Duke  and  Duchess  made 
tbehr  publie  «ntry  into  Ahiwiek  en  Saturday,  Juoie  flO,  1818,  aeooiBpanied  by  about 
five  hundred  of  their  tteaaatrr  cm  horseback.  His  grace,  on  November  SSf,  1819»  was 
admittod  into  the  ovder  of  die  garter.  He  maintaiBs  the  sfdendouf  of  his  iUunbioua 
house ;  and  his  charities  are  extensive,  liberal,  and  judicious.  In  the  works  of  bene-* 
valence,  his  amiable  and  aa^omnlisbed  consort  bears  an  eminent  part.*  The  improve- 
ments effected  and  projected  i^  his  graccj  on  his  estates  in  Northumberland^  are 
impcwtant  and  taste&il;  while  the  great  alteraticms  maSdng  in  Northumberland 
House  wjtt  w»dex  it  ojoi^  ^  th«  sW  npagnificent  ^^d  convenient  mansions  in 
£iiDDpev 


*"  In  18121,  his  grace  presented  to  l)ie  jf>aWsh  oflRnifWk  sn  Elegant  barrelletl  organ^  whidi  k  «reettd  in  the 
western  gallery  of  the  diarch.    This  was  omitted  in  the  proper  place. 

VOL.  I.  6  D 


474 


COQUETDALE  WARD.— -E.  D. 


The  extensive  parks  and  pleasure  pounds  of  his  grace  the  Duke  of  Ndrtbumbei'^ 
land,  in  this  part,  are  admired  for  theiV  fine  shady  wsuks  and  their  beautiful  variety  of 
scenery,  compining  the  pleasing  vicissitude  of  rising  hills  and  bending  vales,  rude 
moors,  indosures,  and  extensive  woods,  clothed  in  their  ridi  and  varied  verdure,  and 
unfolding  the  most  vivid  tints  of  nature.  These  grounds  are  also  rendered  interest* 
ing  by  various  objects,  among  the  most  attractive  of  which  are  the  remains  of  Alnwick 
tod  uulne  Abbeys,  and  the  splendid  column  on  Bridee  HilL  A  neat  Gothic  gate^ 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  castle,  leads  to  Bamiside,  where  a  spacious  gravel  walk 
winds  along  a  fine  high  ground,  which  to  the  left  commands  a  wide  and  beautiful 

Jirospect.  The  right  side  is  decorated  with  shrubs  and  flow^,  through  which  a  path 
eads  to  the  gardens  belon^ng  to  the  caatle,  in  which  the  forcings-houses  are  disposed 
in  the  most  modem  and  approved  style,  ^  and  contain  a  choice  collection  €)f  exotic 
fruits  and  flowers.  Passing  the  gardens,  the  walk  is  inclosed  on  each  side  with  ova*-' 
hanring  trees ;  but  to  the  right  the  eye  is  suddenly  presented  with  an  opening  of  a 
semicircular  form,  in  which  are  two  fish-ponds  and  beautiful  bowers.  Leaving  this 
sweet  recess,  the  walk  passes  through  a  }Heasing  grove  of  oaks,  then  turns  to  the  left 
and  leads  to  the  margin  of  the  Aln,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  is  a  neat  coin-mill, 
with  castellated  walls  and  in  the  Gothic  style ;  and  a  little  below  is  an  elegant  stone 
bridge,  with  one  light  circular  arch.  Proceeding  onward,  the  road  passes  a  fountain 
and  ascends  a  hill^  on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  pleasant  seat,  commanding  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  castle,  the  church,  the  north  bridge,  and  the  woody  banks  of  the  Aln^ 
bevond  which  are  seen  the  monument  on  Bridee  Hill,  and  a  wild  but  grand  scene  of 
Alnwick  Moor.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Aln,*  which  scarcely  appears  to  flow, 
or  even  yield  a  murmur,  except  where  it  turns  over  two  cascades ;  ana  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river  is  a  large  pasture-ground,  beautified  with  dumps  and  sinele  trees 
most  tastefullly  disposed.  Leaving  this  delightful  eminence,  the  road  winds  down 
the  hill  in  front  of  the  castle,  through  a  vaulted  passage  of  a  beautiful  stcme  fairic^  of 
three  arches,  ornamented  i^th  embrasure  parapets,  on  whidi  is  placed  the  statue  ci  a 
lion  passant,  the  crest  of  the  house  of  Percy.  To  the  left  ihe  road  leads  pleasantly 
along  the  margin  of  the  river,  passing  the  buildings  of  the  castle  dairy  and  the 
Dudiess'  free-school,  tiQ  it  crosses  the  river  at  a  ford,  and  then  leads  along  the  base  of 
let  steep  hill,  leaving  on  the  left  the  Abbey  Mills  and  a  neat  stone  fariag^  of  three 
arches,  lately  erected,  till  it  reaches  the  ancient  gate  of  Alnwick  Abbey^ 


Alnwick  Abbey. — ^This  was  formerly  an  abbey  of  Pretnonatratairian  Canons,* 
dedicated  to  St.  James  and  the  Blessed  v  irgin.  Dugdale  calls  it  a  priory.  It  was 
founded  in  the  year  1147  by  Eustace  Fitz-John,  who,  by  his  maniage  with  Beatrix^ 


*  This  order  was  founded  about  the  year  1 112,  by  Norbert,  archbishop  of  Magdeburgh ;  and  took  its  name 
from  Prenwnstratumy  that  is,  a  place  marked  cut  hy  heaven  ;  for  this  the  hame  was  meant  to  express,  being 
the  place  where  their  chief  monaitry  in  France  was  built.  It  was  otherwise  called  the  WJdle  Order,  from 
the  habit  of  the  monks  being  entirely  white.  Dugdale  and  Stephens  do  not  agree  respecting*  the  time  when 
this  order  of  religious  came  first  into  England.  From  Dogdale's  authority  it  is  said  that  the  firat  of  that 
order  came  to  settle  at  Alnwick  ^in  the  year  1147;  but  Stephens,  from  ihe  authority  of  Raynero^  says  the 
ohler  first  came  over  in  1146,  and  settled  at  Newhouse^  ia  Linoalndine,  in  tjieir  monastxy  built  by  Peter  de 
Saulia,  and  dedicated  to  St  Martialia. 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  47« 

ihe  daughter  and  heiress  of  Ivo  de  Vescjr,  became  lord  of  the  barony  of  ALiwick« 
He  endowed  it  amply  out  of  his  baronial  poflsessioQfi.  >  He  gave  it  the  village  of  Hin* 
cKfi*.  with  its  danesnes  aild  wastes,  with  the  service  oX.  haa  the  tenants.  Two  parts 
of  thelithes  of  the  lordshi][»  of  Tupdl,  of  Alnham,  Heysend^  and  Chatton.  One 
moiety  of  the  tithes  of  Woc^r,  of  Long  Houghton,  and  Lesbuiy.  He  annexed  to 
it  the  priory  and  church  of  Gysnes,  near  Felton,  dedicated  to  St.  Wilfrid,  to  hold  in 

Eure  anns^  with  all  its  privil^es  and  endowments ;  a  moiety  of  the  tythes  and  two 
ovats  of  land  at  Gyson,  the  church  of  Halgh  or  Haugh,  the  lands  of  Ridley  and 
Morewick  Haugh,  the  liberty  of  erecting  a  com^mill  on  the  river  Coquet,  and  of 
raising  as  mudi  com  on  his  wastes  there  as  they  could  plough,  with  liberty  to  grind 
it  at  his  own  mill,  mulcture  free.  He  also  gave  the  canons  for  their  table,  the  tenth 
part  of  all  the  venison  and  pork  killed  in  his  parks  and  forests,  and  of  all  the  fish 
taken  in  his  fishery  by  his  order,  and  a  salt-work  at  Warkworth. 
•  In  the  chronide  of  this  house,  preserved  in  the  library  of  King's  CoU^e,  Cam* 
bridge,  there  is  an  account  q&  a  banquet  ^ven  hy  Walter  de  Hepescotes,  tiae  abbot» 
A.  D.  1876,  onljbe  day  of  the  Assumption  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mar^,  to  Henry, 
the  fourth  lord  of  Alnwick,  with  the  thirteen  following  knights :  Willuun  de  Aeon, 
Richard  Tempest,  Walter  Blount,  Allan  de  Heton,  John  Corners,  John  Heron,  John 
Liittleburum,  Thomas  de  Ilderton,  Thomas  de  Boynton,  Ingram  de  Umfranvill^ 
John  de  Dichaunt,  John  de  Swynton,  Badulphus  de  Viners,  and  many  others  of  the 
ehief  gentry  of  the  country,  amounting  to  120,  all  entertained  in  the  rrfectory ;  be* 
sides  86  at  a  seccxid  repast  The  cloisters  too  were  filled  with  inferior  people  of  all 
ages,  to  the  number  of  1080,  who  were  likewise  there  feasted.* 

It  appears  from  the  same  authority,  that  divers  of  the  Percys  were  interred  here^ 
porticuutrly  Henry,  the  second  lord  of  Alnwick  who  died  in  1351 ;  H^uy,  the  third 
lord,  who  bestowed  on  the^mcHiks  £100  at  his  death,  A.  D.  1868 ;  also  Mary  his  wi£^ 
daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Lancaster.  Henry,  the  fourth  lord  of  Alnwick,  A.  D.  137S» 
was  admitted  in  the  month  of  February  to  the  brotherhood  of  this  chapter,  together 
with  divers  other  knights  and  esquires ;  as  also,  in  the  succeeding  year,  Henry,  his 
eldest  son,  widi  his  two  brothers,  Thomas  and  Radulphus. 

During  tiie  abbacy  of  Walter  de  Hepescotes,  this  house  was  afflicted  with  a  great 
8C<^^»  together  with  a  pestilence,  whereby  all  the  cattle  belonging  to  the  monastry 
were  destroyed;  In  this  chronicle  the  following  abbots  are  mentioned ;  John,  who 
died  in  1850 ;  Walter,  who  resigned  his  office  in  1868,  and  was  succeeded  by  Robert ; 
and  Walter  de  Hepescotes,  A.  £>«  1376.  The  abbot  qH  this  house  was  summoned  to 
tiie  parliaments  of  the  S4th,  S5th,  28th,  32d,  and  S4th  of  king  Edward  I.  also  to  that 
held  at  Carlisle^  35th  of  the  same  reign ;  and  to  the  parliament  of  the  SOtfa  king  Ed- 
ward II. 

In  addition  to  the  extensive  endowments  before  enumerated,  William  de  Vescy, 
the  son  of  Eustace,  ''  for  the  salvation  of  his  soul,  and  tbat  of  his  father  Eustace,  and 
his  mother  Beatrix,  and  of  his  ancestors,*"  ^tented  three  charters,  confirming  to  God 
and  the  church  of  the  Holy  Mary  at  Alnwick,  lind  to  the  canons  of  the  Premonstra- 
tensian  order  there  serving  Grod,  the  church  of  Chatton,  with  every  thing  appertuning 
thereunto^  in  free  and  perpetual  alms ;  die  church  of  Chillingham  in  perpetual  alms ; 

*  Bmsid,  vol.  iL  p.  S9S. 


478  COQUETDALE  WAKD^^E.  D. 

and  the  church  of  Ahiham,  with  every  thing  )>ertBiaing  to  it,  m  tiee  and  perpetmil 
alms.  King  John,  by  a  chaster  under  the  liand  of  William  the  Archdeacon,  at  Bam- 
brougfa,  dated  Felnmary  14, 1201,  and  in  ihe^seoond  year  of  his  leign,  confirmed  **to 
God  and  l^e  Holy  Mary  of  Alnwick,  and  die  canons  tibeiie  serving  the  Loid  <3od, 
the  reasonable  free  gift  whidi  Waiden  the  son  of  Edwaid  made  them,  of  one  turbaiy 
between  Yerlesset  and  the  divbion  of  L^tnmgton,  and  of  twenty-four  acres  of  turbary 
with  the  ^purtenances  in  Edlingham,  and  twenty  loads  of  wood  to  be  had  yeiar^  in 
the  wood  of  the  said  Waiden  in  IMlingham,  with  a  prohM>itioii  to  guaard  them  from 
beinff  mcdested  in  carrying  their  fuel  from  the  turl^ry  to  their  own  abbey."  Tdhey 
idso  held  the  advowsons  and  appropriations  ci  Si.  Dunstans,  in  Fleet4atieet,  London, 
abd  of  Sakenfield,  in  Yorkshire ;  also  lands  at  Chatton  and  Fallowdon,  ^»d  four  t6« 
nements  and  a  garden  in  Newcastle  upon  Tyne. 

At  the  dissolution,  the  annual  revenues  of  this  abbey  were  estimated  at  £  189,  ISt. 
by  Du^dale,  and  £194,  7^.  by  Speed,  there  bring  then  thirteen  canons.  Edwterd  YI. 
in  the  fourth  year  cf  his  reign,  ^ivfeed  Hie  site  to  Balph  Sadler  and  Lawrence  Win* 
nington.  It  was  aifter^ards  sold,  with  the  demesnes  sIxHit  it,^  to  Sir  Fraacb  Brand- 
ling, Icnight ;  and  the  DonUled^s  derived  dieir  tide  by  purdiase  firom  tfie  Brandlsi^. 
The  late  Michael  Dodbleday,  Esq.  in  faos  will,  eKpressty  ixtdered  thaJt  the  estate  thoiSd 
be  sdd.  It  was  bought,  in  1798,  by  Middleton  Hewitson,  Esq*  one  lof  the  heirs,  and 
divided  into  three  parts.  The  jMort  o^ntaining  the  abbey  whs  inarchased  by  his  grace 
the  Duke  of  Northumbeiland  from  the  late  Middleton  Hewitson,  Esq.  The  other 
two  parts  are  in  the  possession  of  Joshua  Hewitson  and  Henry  Henstson,  £a^. 

There  are  no  remains  of  the  abbey  but  a  gateway  and  tower,  which,  by  tiia  axek^ 
tecture  and  arms  sculptured  upon  the  buining,  appears  to  be  cf  more  anodem  date 
than  t^  foundation  of  the  house.  Thns  tower  is  not  square,  but  dbiong,  havii;^  aa 
exploratory  turret  on  each  corner.  The  north  side  is  ornamented  with  a  fd^e;  cano* 
pied,  capable  of  teceiving  a  srtatue  five  feet  fa^h :  most  proimfaly  it  eootmatd  the 
effigy  of  the  dedicatory  Virgin.  Beneath  is  a^^e  of  an  angels  ki  adieft  w^cs^ 
panded  wings.  Over  this  entrance  are  shields  of  arms,  a  oMss^  isupyoscd  to  he  At 
arms  of  the  Vescy  s,  and  a  cross  ufKiam.  On  the  south  side,  in  a  /niche,  is  the  6gwte  -of 
one  of  1^  religious  of  the  order  of  White  Friara  of  F^remonslaraleBsea.  Tins  molA  is 
ornamented  with  rfiields  of  amvs,  the  arms  of  Brabant  adopted  by  the  Petcys,  with 
the  arms  of  -Lucys  qmartetly,  the  principal,  and  also  €he  arms  of  Vescy.  Afcwnd  the 
geteway  on  the  ea^  side  are  the  ^gures  of  dienibs  sspporting  maiaonal  ohklds.  Ola 
this  front  are  the  amis  -of  Bralbant  and  the  arms  of  Llucys  on  aeperate  shidds,  aha  a 
canopy  and  niche  tor  a  statue.  Abovie  tMs  entrance,  as  akM>  on  the  .north  tide^  ate 
machicolations;  and  fihere  has  been  an  iqpertnre  in  the aaching cf  thegatewv^,  for 
annoying  assailants.    The  masonry  of  this  tower  is  excellent. 

The  iKihle  proprietore  of  the  alAey  have  made  great  ahoartioitt  on  this  part  of  tthe 
e^te.  The  gatdens  ^nd  orchaid  now  form  part  of  the  I>uke's  fdeasitfe  rounds. 
^fke  curious  gateway  has  heen  presenMl  axA  repaired,  and  the  interior  fittira  u^  &x 
-the  aceommcxlation  of  a  porter.  This  dbhey  has  nothing  very  angular  to  marik  dt»  as 
the  ^grandear  of  the  monastic  bufldings  has  manshed  Ihe&ne  the  ^estraotKve  imd  ^ 
furious  aeal,  and  the  slow  odvrocKng  tootik  «f  time.  ISieee  is  |i6  -aeata^  to  ieaoi^  the 
exact  site  of  the  sacred  buildings,  or  the  place  of  interment  of  the  ilmstrious  person- 
ages before  mentioned.    Still,  however,  tile  baauliy  of  the  situation  remains  to  enchant 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  477 

I 

iirars  of  the  picturesque.  The  abb^  stood  at  a  small  dirtanoe  firom  the  castle, 
ham  the  churdi,  and  under  a  hill,  uy  the  margin  of  the  Aln,  whose  winding 
dides  past  in  pleasinff  murmurs,  havinflr  its  banks  shaded  with  hanfirinir  woods. 


HuLNE  Abbct. — On  leaving  Alnwick  Abbey,  a  path  winds  pleasantly  through  a 
lawn  and  enters  a  plantation,  where  it  is  overhung  with  forest  trees  and  almost  per- 
pendicular banks  on  the  right,  the  river  Afai  flowing  serenely  on  the  left,  having  its 
margin  beautified  with  flowering  shrubs  and  evergreens.  The  termination  of  this 
grove  presents  the  wood  closes,  one  of  the  most  delightful  scenes  imaginable,  with 
the  river  in  view  for  a  considerable  length  gliding  alon^  like  a  smooth  canal  till  it  rolls 
over  a  fine  cascade  directly  in  £ront.  The  road  is  contmued  by  the  side  of  the  river, 
from  which  the  grounds  gently  ascend,  dotted  with  single  trees,  while  their  environs 
inclose  the  whofe  wi&  deep  hannng  woods.  On  quitting  this  sweet  and  solemn 
scene,  a  narrow  track,  with  ttie  banks  rising  abruptly  on  the  right,  contains  only  room 
for  the  road,  which  passes  a  fountain  of  water,  caUed  the  Lady's  Well ;  b^ond  whichr 
an  opening  of  a  semicircular  form  shews  the  woods  to  great  advantage.  From  hence 
the  road  Iea&  amidst  the  shade  of  embowering  trees  to  Hubie  Abbey ;  and  while  the 
contemplation  of  these  interesting  remains  produces  the  most  pleasing  sensations,  it  is 
greatly  enhanced  by  the  picturesque  beauties  and  solemnity  of  the  situation. 

Hulne  Abbey  is  about  three  miles  distant  from  Alnwick.  Seated  on  a  sloping 
eminence,  and  embosomed  in  veneraUe  groves,  its  ivyed  ruins  hang  beautifully  by  the 
side  of  the  river  in  a  woody  and  delightful  solitudk.  It  was  the  first  monastry  of 
Carmelite  Friars^  in  the  kingdom ;  and  the  account  of  its  foundation  is  thus  given 
by  ancient  writers.  Among  the  English  barons  who  went  to  the  Hoty  Wars  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  III.  were  William  de  Vesey,  Lord  of  Alnwick,  and  Kichard  Grey, 
two  eminent  chieftains  in  the  Christian  army.  Led  by  curiosity  or  devotion,  they 
visited  the  monks  of  Mount  Carmel,  and  there  miexpeetedly  found  a  countryman  of 
their  own,  named  Ralph  Fxesbom,  a  Northumberland  gentleman,  who  had  signalized 
himself  in  a  former  crusade,  and,  in  consequence  of  a  vow,  had  taken  upon  mm  the 
monastie  fNrofesston  in  that  solitads,  Wh^  Vesey  and  Grey  were  about  to  return  to 
£ng)and,  they  slrOi^ly  Irafp^Htiined  the  superior  of  the  Carmelites  to  permit  th^ 
countryman  to  ae«mnpariy  theib;  whidi  was  at  length  granted,  on  condition  that 
they  would  found  a  monastry  for  Carmelites  in  their  own  oountoy.  After  they  re- 
turned, Fresbom,  mmdfuJ  of  tbeir  engagement,  began  to  look  out  for  a  place  for  their 
convent ;  and  after  examining  all  the  circumjacent  solitudes,  he  at  kngth  fixed  upon 
tins  spot ;  induced,  it  is  said,  by  the  gteat  Hesembialie^  whiob  the  adjoming  hUl  bore 
to  Mount  Caraiel  in  Palestine, 

The  above  William  de  Vesey  gatve  a  grant  of  the  ground,  consisting  of  twdve  or 
thirteen  acres  in  his  park  of  Hume ;  but  Fiesbom  is  said  to  have  erected  the  build* 
ings  himself.    The  roundation  was  kjd  aboi^t  A,  D.  1840 ;  and  Fresbom,  gathering 

^  The  Carmelites  presumed  to  derfve  tbe  institation  i^  their  order  fhm  tlie  prophet  EKas,  who,  they  as« 
Mrtedy  was  the  first  Carmelite.  But  they  were  reaOy  fi>mided  in  tiie  jrear  1  f  22,  by  Albert,  patriardi  o£  Je^ 
msalem,  who,  with  a  ^sw  hermits,  resided  on  Mount  Carmel  in  Syria,  whence  these  monks  were  driven 
by  the  Saraoenrs  in  I28S.  They  were  called  CavmeKtee  from  their  first  reaidenoe;  White  Fnars  4om 
oelour  of  their  haMt;  also  BMhfen  and  Friars  «f  the  Blessed 

vol.,  I,  C  E 


478  COQUETDALE  WARD— E.  D. 

a  proper  number  of  monks,  became  the  first  abbot  of  the  cmier,  tod  after  having  pre« 
sided  here  with  great  reputation  of  saticti^,  he  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  monastrj, 
about  the  year  1274.  The  CTant  of  William  de  Vescy  was  afterwards  enlarged  with 
new  privileges  by  his  sons  John  and  William ;  and  when,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
next  century,  their  barony  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Percy  family,  the. charters 
were  confirmed,  and  additional  benefactions  granted  to  this  abbey,  by  the  successive 
Lord  Percys  of  Alnwick,  as  appears  by  their  charters  of  1310,  &e 

Hemy  Percy,  the  fourth  Earl  of  Northumberland,  in  the  year  1488,  built  in  this 
abbey  a  strong  tower,  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  the  monks  in  times  of  danger ;  for  in 
the  sudden  irruptions  of  the  Borderers  oi  both  nations,  those  rude  men  spared  neither 
places  nor  persons,  however  sacred,  but  laid  all  waste  with  fire  and  swcnrd.  This 
tower,  having  been  preserved  more  entire  than  any  other  part  of  the  abbey,  was  re- 
paired by  the  noble  possessors,  the  first  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Northumberland,  who 
added  a  most  beautiful  Gothic  building,  and  have  shewn  an  admirable  taste  both  in 
the  choice  and  adaptation  of  the  ornaments*  There  had  originally  been  a  building, 
wliich  is  thought  to  have  been  the  prior's  apartments,  and  to  have  communicated  with 
this  tower  in  ancient  times.  Near  it,  in  old  English  characters,  in  relief,  is  this  cu- 
rious inscription : — 

Tin  t^t  pttt  of  fS^tii^t  Vbu  M.cccc.ini.viii 
~     Coi^t  I)pa0  UHmH  tp  Skit  mem  Veres 


Cj^  tonttb  iStU  of  Nortfiufeertat  of  gret  ^on\  U  toottj^ 
Cj^iit  e0pou0eli  ifltauli  s*  goot  fUtr^  full  of  bertue  anli  ftekpe 
IBau0fir«  to  ^\  'fmnim  fiotbivt  trigfit  itofile  anli  ti4ii:liv 
iBirle  of  ilemliroeft  to^o0  0oulto  goU  Mbe 
Attn  taiitj^  |^i0  9xut  toMx^t  9*  ftilHer  of  tfito  fCotair^ 

Opposite  to  the  inscription,  there  is  inserted  ifi  the  wall  an  andent  tomb-stone, 
brought  hither  from  the  old  church  at  Al^mouth,  and  probably  belonging  to  some  of 
the  ancient  family  of  Forsters.  It  is  of  a  very  singular  form,  representing  a  trophy, 
and  hunff  round  with  the  escutcheons,  sword,  bugle-horn,  &c.  of  some  old  warri(»*. 
This  tomb-stone  is  erected  in  the  outside  wall  of  the  west  end  of  what  was  formerly 
theprincipal  abbey  church. 

.  Tne  church  has  been  183  feet  long,  and  26  feet  wide ;  and  the  vestry  or  sacristy  22 
feet  in  length,  and  15  in  breadth.  The  refectory  at  the  east  side  of  the  cloisters  is  a 
long  narrow  room.  The  side-walls  of  the  chapter-house  are  still  entire,  in  length  88]^ 
feet^  and  in  breadth  17^  feet.  Within  the  door  of  this  building  there  was  found,  in 
1777,  a  skeleton,  extremely  perfect,  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  the  superiors  of  tlie 
convent.  The  south  end  of  the  dormitory  still  remains.  The  ancient  entrance, 
through  an  embattled  tower,  seems  to  have  been  well  defended.  To  the  left  of  this 
tower,  and  adjoining  the  outer  wall,  was  a  large  hall,  to  receive  and  entertain  strangers, 
with  a  chapel  attacned  to  it,  supposed  to  l^  the  same  that  is  now  converted  into  a 
dwelling-house  for  the  person  who  has  charge  of  the  abbev.  Between  the  hall  and 
the  chapel  are  two  sycamore  trees  growing  from  the  sides  of  the  wall,  of  considerable 


ALNWICK  PABISH. 


479 


age  and  magtiitude.  '  These  singular  trees  have  incorporated  into  their  substance 
gveat  masses  of  stone,  wludi  seem  suspended  in  a  most  extraordinary  manner. 

In  one  of  the  under  apartments  has  been  the  cold  bath,  which  is  still  remaining. 
Near  the  batti  is  a  draw-well,  which  is  probably  of  a  more  mqdem  date  than  the 
abbey,  as  there  is,  about  half  a  mile  to^the  north,  a  fountain  of  very  dear  water,  an- 
ciently caQed  the  Friar's  Well,  or  Hie  Holy  Well,  whence  there  has  been  a  conduit 
to  convey  the  water  to  the  abbey.  A  part  of  this  conduit  was  taken  up  in  the  year 
1816.  A  great  part  of  the  space  within  the  walls,  which  is  now  a  garden,  was  most 
likely  occupied  by  dLBferent  buildings  when  this  abbey  was  at  the  height  of  its  splen- 
dour ;  more  particularly  as  ancient  accounts  state,  that  there  were  within  the  walls 
seveii  churches  and  chapels  for  different  parts  of  worship.  The  outer  wall  has  been 
embattled,  with  small  turrets  in  the  angles ;  and  formerly  there  was  but  one  entrance 

into  the  abbey. 

The  famous  biographer,  John  Bale,  was  a  member  of  the  Carmelite  order,  and  lived 
and  studied  in  this  ddidous  solitude.  The  annvud  income  of  this  convent  at  the  dis- 
solution, says  Fuller,  was  valued  at  £  194,  Is.  at  the  low  rates  in  this  cheap  county. 
The  abbey,  witli  the  ground  adjoining,  was  granted  to  Sir  Robert  EUerker,  knight, 
in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  for  the  term  of  his  life,  and  without  payment  of  rent. 
In  the  reign  of  queen  Elizabeth,  it  was  purchased  of  Anthony  Rone,  auditor,  and 
Mr.  Richard  Ashtone,  the  queen's  receiver,  by  Thomas,  the  seventh  Earl  of  North- 
umberland; but  on  the  Earl's  defection,  it  was  given  by  the  queen  to  Sir  John 
Forster,  knight.  In  the  reign  of  James  I.  it  was  in  the  possession  of  John  Salkeld, 
Esq.  and  was  afterwards  sold  to  the  Northumberland  family. 

Some  of  the  buildings  of  the  abbey  are  fitted  up  and  inhabited  by  the  persons  who 
have  the  charge  of  an  aviary  which  his  grace  has  established  here.  The  other  parts 
are  decorated  with  plantations  of  various  trees  and  shrubs,  so  as  to  render  this  de- 
lightful retreat  a  spot  abounding  with  beauty  and  antiquity. 

BmsLEE  TowEB. — Descending  from  the  sweet  retirement  of  Hulne  Abbey  to  tiie 
vale  beneath,  the  road  crosses  a  ford  opposite  the  abbey,  and  winds  up  the  mountain, 
which  at  every  step  displays  new  and  beautiful  views,  till  it  enters  the  woods  at  a 
mte  near  the  summit,  where  the  path  leads  to  the  tower  erected  upon  Brislee  HUl. 
The  design  of  this  tower  is  the  most  elegant  imaginable,*  and  it  is  finished  in  the 
bluest  and  most  splendid  style  of  masonry.  Above  the  entrance,  on  the  first  bal- 
cony, is  inscribed  the  following  :— 

MDCCLXXXI. 
H.  DVX.  NoatHiTMfiEiA  Fecit. 

A  little  above  the  balcony,  under  the  Duke's  medallion,  is  the  following  inscrip- 

tio;i  : — ^**  CIKCTTMSPICE. — ^EGO    OMNIA    ISTA    SUM    DIMUNSUS  ;     MEI    SUNT    QBDINES, 

*  This  colamn^  though  executed  not  quite  agreeably  to  the  pure  principles  of  architecture,  is  extremely 
beautiful.  The  original  model  was,  it  is  said,  made  of  pastry  by  a  French  cook.  His  grace  was  so  pleased 
with  the  ingenious  design  when  placed  upon  his  table,  that  he  ordered  all  the  proportions  to  be  strictly  ob« 
served  in  erecting  this  tower,  whidi  was  built  under  the  able  directionB  of  the  late  Mr.  Matthew  MiUs, 
mason,  of  Alnwick. 


480  COQUETDALE  WAED.— E.  D. 

M£A  DESCRIPTIO;   UXTLTJB  BTIAM  ISTA&UM  AUH»UM  ICEA  MAKU  STKT  SiATjK«^* 

A  circular  inside  stair-case  leads  to  the  top,  whkb  is  66  £eet  h^Jiy  and  has  a  balecmy 
round  it ;  and,  above  all,  a  curious  iion  srate  finishes  this  admirable  coliinm,  which  is 
90  feet  high.  From  the  uppermost  bilcoBy,  the  extent  and  yarietjr  of  poapect  are 
astonishing.  To  the  west  hes  the  fertile  vale  of  Whittingham»  thioi^h  whidb  the 
placid  Aln  directs  its  course,  having  its  environs  adorned  with  the  seats  of  Eslington^ 
B(^ton,  CaUaly,  Shawdon,  Broompark,  Laoiington,  &a  while  the  eye  tnees  its 
mean^ring  course  till  it  is  seen  almost  endrchng  Hulne  Abbey>  as  if  emoloiis  to  sdd 
to  the  beauties  of  that  charming  retreat.  To  we  north-west,  the  vast  moantains  of 
Cheviot  erect  their  huge  conic  li^ads ;  between  the  openings  at  whidti  is  a  f^timpse  of 
die  stOl  more  distant  blue  hJUs  of  Teviotdale  in  Seodand.  The  top  of  Cheviot  is 
about  90  miles  from  hence,  and  the  Teviotdale  haUs  nearly  40.  In  a  dear  day,  the 
memorable  hiU  of  Flodden,  where  James  IV.  of  Scotland  was  shdn,  may  be  distiiip- 
guished.  The  rude  mountains  to  the  ncnrth  appear  finely  contrasted  with  a  variei^  of 
hills  and  slopes,  winch  are  cultivated  to  their  summits.  To  the  east  are  fiae  gnea 
vales^  in  tile  midst  of  which  the  town  of  Alnwick,  overlooked  I^  tiie  castle^  naa  a 
most  picturesque  ra'pearance ;  bdow  it  the  river  Aln  is  seen  beautifully  win^xu^  toh 
wards  the  sea,  which  terminates  this  prospect  to  the  east  and  south,  and  extends  &ng 
the  coast  firmn  beyond  the  Fam  Islands  to  the  north ;  yet  not  so  distant  but  that  the 
shipping  may  be  plakily  seen  many  mUes  from  the  kmd,  and  afford  a  fine  moving 
picture.  Upon  the  margin  of  the  sea,  on  a  bold  rock,  stands  Bambrowh  Castle ;  to 
the  southward  the  ruins  of  Dunstanburgh  Castle,  the  little  port  of  AlenM>uth,  the 
towering  remains  of  Warkworth  Castle,  which,  with  Coquet  Island,  are  among  the 
most  striking  objects ;  and  the  high  land  in  the  county  of  Durham  terminates  the 
southern  prospect.  To  the  south-west,  a  wild  moor,  part  of  the  ancient  forest  of 
Hi^don,  rises  stiU  higher  than  the  ground  whereon  the  tower  stands. 

Quitting  this  magnificent  stru^ure,  the  road  crosses  a  small  circular  plain  inclosed 
with  woo(C  and  winds  round  the  edge  of  a  most  astonishing  precipice,  presenting  a 
noble  wild  scenery ;  and  occasionally  are  interspersed  some  of  those  rude  pyramids  of 
stone  called  cairm,  ereeted  in  andent  times  fcnr  landmarks.  Proeeeding  on,  a  path  to 
the  left  leads  to  a  natural  cave  amidst  the  cliffs  of  the  rodcs,.  adorned  with  two  statues 
in  stone,  not  itt  adapted  to  its  retired  situation.  From  hence  prooeedoDg  tfarottgh  the 
woodS)  a  gate  opens  mto  an  ext^isive  pasture-ground,  where  a  most  beautiful  laadscape 
suddenly  presents  itself  to  the  view.  Descending  the  pastuMi-groand^  the  road  koda 
through  a  shrubbery  into  a  plantation  of  forest  trees,  wbere^  on  the  right,  is  a  porter's 
lodge  of  degant  mason-work,  in  the  modem  Grothic.  The  road  then  descends  into  a 
sequestered  vale,  passing  under  a  cliff  with  overhanging  trees,  and  watered  at  the  foot 
by  a  dear  running  brook,  with  fine  water-falls.  On  turning  to  the  right,  'the  road 
crosses  the  rivulet,  ascends  a  steep  rcmiantic  hill,  and  passes  through  a  Gothk  gate- 
way, wUch,  representing  as  it  were  an  outwork  from  the  castle,  is  with  great  pro*! 
priety  ornamented  with  battlements  and  a  porteullis.  A  spadous  road  then  leads  to 
the  great  gate  of  t^e  casde ;  in  passing  to  which,  on  the  right»  is  a  monument  to 
pdnt  out  the  phu^  where  WiUicun  ki^  of  Scotland  was  i^Sea  prisoner  in  the  year 

*•  Traiu/olJbfi.— Look  aboot  ycuBu  I  have  uMaaiiied  ooS  all  these  tbingt ;  they  sr»  mj  aiders^  il  ia  ny 
plaimiog;  many  of  thaae  tr«as  have  even  been  planted  by  my  hand. 


ALNWICK  PARISH.  481 

1174,  while  besi^ing  Alnwick  Casda  A  coacfa-road  from  the  north  bridge  proceeds 
through  an  extensive  lawn,  akmg  the  margin  of  the  river,,  and  then  winds  to  the  left 
till  it  reaches  Ratsheugh  Crag  *  Passing  up  the  southern  acclivity  of  this  vast  rock, 
amidst  trees  and  shrubs,  the  observatory  and  the  keeper's  house  have  the  appearance 
of  ancient  ruins.  They  were  built  by  the  first  and  second  Dukes  of  Northumber- 
land. The  walls  are  ornamented  on  the  outside  with  rude  carvings,  and  a  winding 
staircase  of  stone  of  excellent  workmanship  leads  to  an  open  stone  gaUery,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  observatory,  which  is  about  eighteen  feet  square  and 
twelve  feet  high,  with  a  large  window  on  each  side.  The  whole  is  elegantly  con- 
structed ;  and  the  prospect  from  this  place  is  grand  and  extensive.  From  hence  the 
road  proceeds  in  a  winoing  direction  nearly  to  the  sea,  then  turns  north,  and  after- 
wards west  and  south,  passes  through  Denwick,  and  runs  westwards  until  it  joins  the 
great  post-road.  This  circuit,  which  is  several  mUes  in  extent,  is  unrivalled  for 
beauty,  magnificence,  and  the  richest  and  most  diversified  landscapes. 

In  a  plantation,  near  whe^  the  Duke's  private  road  joins  the  turnpike,  stands  a 
cross  to  distinguish  the  spot  where  Malcolm  III.  king  of  Scotland,  was  slain  while 
^i^ng  Alnwick  Castle  m  the  year  1093.  It  was  restored  in  1774  by  his  descends 
ant,  Elizabeth  Duchess  of  Northumberland,  and  bears  the  following  inscriptions :--« 

West  Ayufe,— .-MALCOLM  IIL  KING  OF  SCGTI-AND,  B£SI£QIKG  ALNWICK  CASTLE^ 
WAS  SLAIN  HEBE  NOV.  XIII.  AN.  MXCIII. 

East  Side. — k.  Malcolm's  ceoss,  decayed  by  time,  was  bestobed  by  his 

DESCENDANT,  ELIZ.  DUTCHESS  OF  NOBTHUMBEBLAND,  MDCCLXXIV. 

The  cross  has  three  steps  to  the  pedestal.  On  the  north  side  are  sculptured  a 
crown  and  thistle,  and  on  the  south  side  a  lion  rampant,  with  other  devices.  Th^ 
pedestal  and  capital  of  the  old  cross  are  still  remaining  among  the  adjoining  trees. 

The  Percy  Tenantry  Column  is  placed  on  a  beautinil  knowl  adjoining  uie  road  on 
the  south  entrance  into  the  town.  It  was  erected  by  the  tenants  of  his  ffrace,  to  per- 
petuate his  generous  benevolence  displayed  in  the  liberal  allowances  he  had  made 
them  from  time  to  time  in  th^  payments  of  their  rents,  whereby  they  were  enabled 
to  meet  the  pressing  exigencies  of  the  times  without  distress  or  nun.  This  noble  co- 
lumn was  erected  on  the  plan  of  the  late  David  Stephenson,  Esq,  his  grace's  architect^ 
and  the  foundation  stone  was  laid  with  great  ceremony  on  the  1st  of  July,  1816. 
The  column  itself  is  83  feet  in  height^  and  contains  circular  sti^,  whidi  lead  to  the 
top.  It  stands  on  a  basement  iipwards  of  90  feet  in  circumference,  built  with  a  spe- 
cies of  rose-coloured  granite^  This  basement  is  ascended  by  steps  in  four  divisions, 
separated  by  hu^e  plmths,  on  which  are  placed  colossal  lions  rfused  on  bases  of  po- 
lished black  marble.  From  this  basement  another  elevation  rises,  which  finishes  with 
^  gallery,  having  its  angles  ornamented  by  Etruscan  pilasters,  and  the  sides  form^ 
into  square  pands.  Out  of  this  gallery  the  column  rises,  resting  on  a  squared  plinth, 
agreeably  to  the  practice  of  the  purest  a^e  of  Grecian  architecture.  The  capital  of 
the  column  forms  a  light  yiranda*  secured  by  an  elegant  iron  paling ;  and  froni  this 

*  Thii  venuurkably  high  point  seems  to  have  derived  its  name  fitnn  die  ancient  British,  BaUkeugh  Crag 
being  a  corrqption  of  that  language.  The  or^^inal  is  Rhaud  umch  cragi  that  is,  ''  The  way  over  ike  prec^fU 
ime.rwkJ'  There  has  been  an  encampment  on  this  places  the  trenches  of  whidi  were  fiUed  up  in  the  seven« 
$eenth  century, 

VOL.  I.--(21)  6  P 


468  COQUETOALE  WARDL^E.  D. 

vmmda  a  circular  pedestal  rises,  snjqporting  a  Eon  passant,  tlie  crert  of  1^  hmise  of 
Ferejr.    The  panel  tacing  the  east  oantasns  the  foUowiiig  inacriplidn :.~ 

TO 

HUGH,  DUKE  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND,  K.  G. 

THIS  COLUMN 
IS  ERECTED,  DEDICATED,  AND  INSCRIBED. 

BY 

A  GRATEFUL  AND  UNITED  TENANTRY, 

ANNO  DOMINI 
MDCCCXVI. 

In  each  of  the  four  pands  of  the  paraph  of  the  giSkxy  is  ^igraven  theaemorial 
motto  of  the  noble  famuy  of  P»ey — 

ESPERANCE  EN  DIEU. 

The  stone  of  this  beautiful  structure  was  worked  in  a  neighbouring  quarry  on  the 
estate  of  the  family,  and  resembles  the  colour  and  grit  of  the  finest  Portland  stone. 
The  black  marble  was  had  from  the  same  ouarnr.  The  masonry  is  highly  polished 
and  excellent ;  and  the  column  is  surrounded  and  protected  from  trespass  by  an  iron 
paling.    The  whole  knowl  is  beautified  by  a  shrubbery  and  young  plantation. 

Swansfield  House^  the  seat  of  Henry  Collingwood  Selby,  Esq.  stands  at  a  short 
distance  to  the  west  of  the  town.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  having  a  fine  lawn  in 
front,  and  beautiful  walks  adjoining.  A  little  to  the  south  of  this  mansion,  on  a 
commanding  eminence,  called  CamphUl^  an  elegant  column  is  erected  to  commemo- 
rate the  victorious  efforts  of  the  British  powers  during  the  Ijte  war,  and  the  restora- 
tion of  peace  to  Europe  in  1814.  In  the  same  ground  with  the  column  is  an  unfinished 
tower,  Duilt  by  the  late  T.  Adams,  Esq.  and  intended  for  an  observatory.  H.  C^ 
Selby,  Esq.  the  present  proprietor,  has  built  on  it  a  flag  tower,  and  inserted  a  tablet 
in  the  outer  wall,  on  which  are  profiles  of  the  second  Duke  and  Duchess  of  North- 
umberland with  the  Coronet,  and  inscribed  to  their  graces,  who  were  the  early  patrons 
of  the  proprietor.  Immediately  in  front  of  the  mansion  is  a  beautiful  statue  of  Peace, 
commemorative  of  the  battle  of  Waterloo  and  the  banishment  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte. 

DeNwick*  is  a  pleasant  little  village,  situate  about  1^  mile  east  from  Alnwick.  At 
its  west  end  stands  an  elegant  arch,  over  which  the  Duke's  private  road  passes  north- 

*  Mr.  John  Common,  an  agricultural  machine  maker»  who  resides  in  this  village^  has  distinguished  himself 
by  several  very  ingenious  and  useful  inventions.  In  IS  18,  he  received  the  gold  medal  from  the  Society  fox 
the  Encouragement  of  Arts  and  Manufactures,  for  an  improved  self-adjusting  drill.  He  was  a}so  pi^sented 
with  thirty  guineas  from  the  Highland  Society  at  Edinburgh  for  this  invention.  But  his  skill  in  making 
rural  machines,  and  the  patronage  he  has  received,  seem  strangely  disproportioned. 

Mr.  Common's  fiunily  has  been  renariEaUc  far  atalnre,  straogth,  longevity,  and  clevemeat.  His  great, 
gnmdfathcr,  Thomas,  lived  mnil  he  was  above  110  yens  of  age.  Some  time  before  hia  death,  whioh  hap- 
pened  at  Dunsheugh,  he  get  a  new  set  <^  teeth.  He  kft  seven  sons.  One  of  them,  named  Andh«w,  meaaond 
27  inches  across  the  shoulders,  and  frequently  went  to  Alnwick  market  from  Thrunton,  with  a  atick  over  hia 


ALRWICK  PARISH.  4m 

ward  into  the  White-  Cross  Howls,  a  field  so  caHed  from  n  cross  htvii^  ^fcood  00.  its 
south  side,  where  the  dead  were  buried  when  the  plague  infected  Denwick.  An 
extensive  bleaeh-field  and  fulUiig  mill  stand  hdiow  on  the  xmrngkn  ef  the  A  In,  There 
are  sereral  very  convenient  modem-built  farmsteads  in  this  interei^tiiig  j^arisk  Meckm 
hy  Change^  stands  at  a  little  distance  north-west  from  the  ncwrth  turQ|nke  bar» 

shoulder,  to  which  a  boll  of  peas  was  suspended.  Robert,  another  son,  seued  two  nie»  who  w^re  assaulting 
his  master  at  Warkworth  Bams,  and,  carrying  cme  of  them  under  each  arm,  fan  and  Ar^w  them  IkA  inio 
the  Coquet  Being  present  when  a  party  of  men  were  trying  their  steength  hy  throw^  ^  axe  towavda  a 
house  at  High  Dustoni  h6  joined  in  the  sport ;  but,  instead  of  throwing  the  axe  lotvards  tbe  hDyuae,  he  thi«w 
it  over  it.  There  was  another  son  named  Matthew,  petsaessed  of  uncommon  streng4.  At  one  time»  he  lei^wd 
fbrwards  and  backwards  ovkr  a  yoke  of  oseo  in  Abiwick  streets,  Thomas,  the  yousges^  Mr.  Qommon's 
grandfiither,  was  the  least ;  yet  he  wd^^ied  14  stone.  He  had  two  sjcma,  Thomas,  and  Robert  B(r.  C.*8  father. 
They  were  both  ingeaioua  mechanics  and  noted  pugilists.  Thoqi^  excelled  10  the  erection  of  wind-mills  and 
fltcam-engines,  and  Robert  in  making  wtnnowii^  nuichines  oni  an  econcwnical  plan.  He  made  some  improve- 
ments  in  the  eonstructioo  of  ploughs,  and  invented  the  ^onne^  \(aker'8  Ma^e.  H^  dso  performj^d  well  on^ 
the  bagpipe  and  yiaStim,  both  ^  v^fk^  iustrumepta  he  made  hpos^  Wh^en  a  boy,  he  was  severely  eorrected, 
by  his  &lher,  for  staadii^  upon  his  head  on  the  steeple  of  S^hottle  church'  ^is  eldest  son,  Thomas,  is  now 
an  eminent  millwright  at  Quebec  William,  another  sox\»  parries  on  the  same  business  in  Buston,  his  njative 
plabe.  He  possesses  a  portion  of  the  nerve  and  iigility  of  his  forefathers,  as  he  can  le^p  through  a  hopp,  two 
feet  in  diameter,  while  a  tall  man  holds  it  above  his  head.  His  brother,  Mr.  John  Commo;i  (from  whom 
these  particulars  were  obtained),  when  a  youth,  stood  upon  his  head  on  the  highest  tower  of  Warkworth 
Castle.  He  performed  the  same  feat  on  the  edge  of  the  .grate  of  Brlslee  Tower,  and  on  the  stem-piece  of  a 
boat  while  agitated  in  the  water.  He  has  also  laid  his  lugids  on  s  board  the  height  of  his  chin,  sprung  up, 
ivod  rested  upon  his  head.  He  has  likewise  walked  upon  hi^  elbows  on  level  ground,  and  upon  his  hands  on 
the  battlement  of  Warkworth  bridge  and  the  highest  part  of  fishott  Hall ! 

About  the  time  that  king  James  I.  mounted  the  English  throne,  one  of  this  wonderftil  family  farmed  the 
Free  Stone  Bum  near  Whittingham,  and  tradition  records  how  boldly-  he  fouf;fat  with  a  purty  of  moaatvoopeBa. 
who  had  stolen  his  cattle.  John,  the  brother  of  Mr.  Common's  great-grandfather  before  mentionfid»  lived 
until  he  was  115  years,  old;  and  Peter,  another  brother,  until  he  exceeded  his  ld2d  year:  he  died  at  Rugl^ 
about  80.  years  aga  This  patriarch  wus  casting  flags  in  Haxon  Moor,  y^kea  a  Mr.  huie  rode  up,  vni  d^ 
manded  to  know  by  whose  authority  he  worked  there.  '^  I  have  cast  flags  hm»  hetimes,"  s^  Pet^,  ^  aboyi^ 
ipo  years,  and  no  man  ever  asked  me  the  question  befbra"-^''  Cast  q^l  whU9  yo^  live,"  replie4  the  gentle- 
man, throwing  him  hall^^^-crown ;  *'  I  will  never  flwhad  you.'*  John,  whil^  leipriltg  at  TitUIlg^)p,  upas  seLie^ 
by  a  party  of  soldiers,  whom  his  master,  in  a  joke,  had  sent  to.  talcf  bin) ;  but  he  defended  himself  so  resoi^ 
lutely  with  his  spade,  that  tfie  poor  fellows  were  glad  to  effept  th^  edcape.  His  eyesight  remained  uiunu 
paired  to  the  last ;  so  that  a  few  days  before  he  diedl,  while  lying  in  bed,  he  could  read  a  printed  paper  tI^I 
was  pasted  at  some  distance  upon  the  wqU  of  his  room.    He  was  buried  at  Warkworth- 

*  A  most  unprecedented  act  of  self-destruction  was  committed  here  on  Tuesday,  November  10,  1818^ 
John  and  Launcelot  Younghusband  had  resided  at  this  place  from  their  youth :  they  were  loving  brothers, 
and  respectable  fanners;  the  one  verging  on  70  years  of  age,  end  the  other  not  less  than  60.  On  the  tragic 
morning,  while  one  of  them  was  giving  instructions  to  a  boy  ploughing  in  one  of  their  fields,  the  other  bro- 
tlicr  an^oached  and  asked,  "Are  you  ready?"  Being  answer^  in  the  affirmative,  they  left  the  field  toge- 
gttber.  Their  long  absence  from  home  created  alarm,  and  servants  were  sent  to  seardi  for  them,  when  they 
were  discovered  within  a  few  yards  of  each  other,  eadi  having  his  thtoat  cut,  and  a  rasor  near  his  body.  A 
watch  was  also  found  beside  one  of  them,  from  which  it  was  inferred  that  they  had  resolved  to  die  at  the 
same  moment.    A  jury  held  inquest,  and,  after  several  a^oumments,  letumed  a  verdict  fjtfola  de  se. 


484  COQUETDALE  WARD.-JE.  D. 

Very  few  remains  of  antiquity  have  been  found  in  €biB  parish.  On  the  ascent  of  a 
hill  near  the  Sheep  layers,  on  Abiwick  moor,  about  three  miles  from  the  town,  a^ 
the  remains  of  an  irregularly  formed  eamp,  with  a  double  ditch  on  the  south  side ; 
and  on  Rugley  Moorhouse  Farm  is  another  camp,  nearly  square.  Conformably  tQ 
the  popular  prejudices  on  this  subject,  both  these  camps  are  confidently  attributed  to 
the  jDanes. 

Albout  the  year  1726,  while  a  mason  was  clearing  the  earth  in  Hulne  Park,  in. 
order  to  win  stones,  he  discovered  20  brass  sword  blades,  and  16  spear  h^uls,  lying 
dose  to  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  about  18  inches  from  the  surface ;  dig^g  about  a. 
foot  lower  on  the  hill  side,  he  found  42  brass  wedges  or  chissels,  with  a  nng  near  the 
thicker  end.  That  eminent  antiquary,  the  late  Mr.  Gale,  imagined  that  they  had 
been  employed  as  chissels  for  cutting  stone  by  the  ancient  Britons,  who  put  a  wooden 
shaft  in  the  hollow  end  of  them,  and  so  drove  them  with  a  mallet.  The  shaft,  when 
not  employed,  he  continues,  might  be  drawn  out  of  the  chissel ;  and,  by  nmning  a 
string  through  the  ring  on  their  sides,  several,  of  them  might  be  tied  tc^ether,  and 
conveniently  carried  by  the  workman  at  his  cirdle,  or  otherwise,  and  one  shaft  serve 
them  aU.  This  idea  seems  confirmed  from  the  circumstance  of  several  brass  chissels^ 
being  found  under  a  small  tumulus  upon  the  banks  of  the  Humber  in  Yoikskire,  and 
in  the  joints  and  crevices  of  a  stone  quarry  near  Bishopwearmouth. 

A  little  above  the  place  where  these  instruments  were  found,  was  deeply  cut  in  the 
rock  1115,  but  these  figures  cannot  be  supposed  to  have  any  relation  to  what  was 
found  below.  Thev  seem  to  have  been  th^  peculiar  tools  of  the  ancient  Britons,  for 
the  Romans  had  leu  ofi^  the  use  of  brass  in  their  tools  and  weapons  before  their  arrival 
in  this  island.  That  the  Britons  formed  their  weapons  of  this  metal  is  a  fact  evinced 
by  the  most  indubitable  evidence.  Several  brass  weapons  have  been  found  in  the 
British  burrows  on  Salisbury  Plain.  Sibbald  says,  that  many  swords,  heads  of  spears, 
and  small  darts,  made  of  brass,  have  been  found  in  different  parts  of  Scotland ;  and 
Gordon  has  given  a  delineation  of  some  brass  axes  which  evidently  belonged  to  the 
Caledonian  Britons.  The  ancients  had  the  art  of  giving  a  remarkably  hard  temper 
to  this  metal.  Their  razors,  and  took  sufficient  to  cut  ba$-reliefs  in  granite  or  por^ 
phyry,  were  made  of  brass. 

The  annals  of  Alnwick  are  but  scanty.  It  experienced  its  share  in  the  dreadful^ 
miseries  that  afflict  border  towns.  In  1185,  it  was  taken  by  king  David  of  Scotland,, 
and  in  1215  laid  waste  by  the  tyrant  king  John.  It  was  again  reduced  to  ashes  by 
the  Scots  in  1448.  In  the  reign  of  Edwara  IV.  the  English  army,  preparatoiy  to  aa 
intended  invasion  of  Scotland,  was  marshalled  at  Alnwick :  and,  previous  to  the  battle 
of  Flodden,  the  Earl  of  Surrey,  with  an  army  of  £6,000  men,  was  detained  here  in 
consequenoe  of  heavy  rains.  Most  of  the  other  transactions  that  distinguished  thi^ 
place  are  comprehended  in  the  history  of  the  castle. 

SHILBQTTLE  PARISH. 

This  parish  is  bounded  by  Alnwick  on  the  north,  by  Lesbury  on  the  east,  by  Wark- 
worth  on  the  south-east,  and  by  Fdton  parish  on  the  south-west.  Its  extreme  length 
from  east  to  west  is  about  four  miles,  and  from  south  to  north  three  ^nd  a  half.  It 
is  well  cultivated,  and  is  famed  for  an  excellent  coal^^mine,  witjh  abundance  of  good, 


SHILBOTTLE  PARISH.  485 

limestone.  It  contains  286  houses,  and  1153  inhabitants.  There  are  two  schools  at 
ShUbotde.  The  parish  school  is  usually  attended  by  40  children,  who  all  pay  a  quar- 
terage. The  funds  are  £2,  10«.  left  by  Mr.  Henry  Strother  by  will  dated  1741 ;  and 
the  master  has  a  cottage  and  schoolroom,  and  half  an  acre  of  garden  ground,  from  the 
Duke  of  Northumbenand,  for  which  he  pays  an  acknowledgment  of  is.  6d.  per  an- 
num. The  said  Mr.  Strother  also  bequeatned  £5  to  the  resident  vicar,  which  he  (the 
Rev.  Joseph  Cook)  gives  to  the  schoolmaster :  and  Hugh  Taylor,  Esq.  gives  likewise 
£5  a  year.  The  school  in  Newton  contains  60  children,  35  of  whom  are  educated 
CTatis  (two  being  admitted  from  each  house) :  the  funds  consist  of  £  15,  bequeathed 
m  the  years  1765  and  1770,  by  Mrs.  Frances  and  Mrs.  Jane  Strother.    The  minister 

Xrted  to  the  House  of  Commons,  that  **  most  of  the  poor  being  pitmen,  are  able  to 
!ate  their  children ;  but  thev  are  regardless  of  their  receiving  any  instruction,  or 
observance  of  the  Sabbath ;  which  is  attributed  to  the  dissemination  of  atheistical  and 
seditious  pamphlets."* 

Shilbottle  is  a  healthy  village,  and  stands  upon  a  hill  in  the  midst  of  a  fme  open 
country,  above  three  miles  south  by  east  from  Alnwick.  It  contains  above  100 
houses,  and  at  present  about  600  inhabitants.  Here  is  an  excellent  colliery,  belonging 
to  Thomas  and  Hugh  Taylor,  Esqrs.  who  hold  it  by  lease  of  the  Duke  of  Northum* 
berland,  the  proprietor  of  Shilbottle.  It  gives  employment  to  70  men  and  boys. 
The  working  pit  is  about  36  fathoms  deep,  and  the  engine  pit  nearly  46  fathoms. 
The  engine  is  of  36  horse  power.  The  principal  seam  is  32  inches  thick,  and  the  coal 
is  of  good  quality.  The  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  James,  has  a  modem  ap- 
pearance, having  been  thoroughly  repaired  about  30  years  ago.  The  following  in* 
scription  is  over  the  entrance : — **  johaknis  salkeld,  olem  vicarius,  fecit,  et 
posuiT.  SIC  situs  josephus  cook,  a.  m.  refecit  a.  d.  MDCccxviir."  A  new 
vestry  was  built  in  1822.  The  living  is  a  discharged  vicarage,  valued  in  the  king's 
books  at  £4,  14^.  8d.  The  king  is  me  patron.  At  Midsummer  and  Whitsunday. 
Eve,  the  villagers  are  allowed  six  fothers  of  coals  to  make  a  bonfire,  around  which 
they  merrily  dance  and  play  at  various  games.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  these  andait 
and  joyous  pastimes  are  gradually  falling  into  disuse.  They  light  up  the  too  pervad* 
ing  gravity  of  the  nation,  soften  the  rudeness  of  rustic  manners,  and  repress  the  grow, 
ing  and  chilling  habits  of  gain  and  traffic. 

Whittle,  High  and  Low,  are  two  farmsteads,  the  property  of  John  Clutterbuck, 
Esq.  of  Warkworth.  The  Whittle  lime-kilns  were  abandoned  some  years  ago. 
Hazok  ofiers  nothing  remarkable ;  it  is  the  property  of  Charles  Bacon,  Esq.  of  Styford* 

Guidance,  or  Guyson,  is  beautifully  seated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Coquet.  It 
contains  seventeen  very  neat  and  comfortable  cottages,  to  each  of  which,  like  aU  the 
other  cottages  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  two  roods  of  land  is  itttached,  which 

*  See  Digest  of  Parochial  Returns,  printed  by  order  of  the  House  of  Commons,  1st  April,  I8I9, 

t  The  Rev.  John  Falder  was  vicar  in  1648,  when  he  was  sequestered  from  his  living;  and  such  were  the 
cruel  animosities  of  this  time,  that  he  was  neither  permitted  to  keepaschool,  nor  hmre  a  private  congregation, 
to  get  a  subsistence.    He,  however,  lived  to  repossess  his  living  in  1$60« 

VOL.  I.  6  G 


4S6  COQUETDALE  WARD^E.  D. 

at  this  pkee  is  of  an  excellent  quality.  A  prionr  wa»  founded  here  by  Uic^Mrd  Ty« 
son.  It  was  afterwards  annexed  to  the  abbey  of  Alnwick  by  Eustaoe  Fit9-John»  to 
be  held  in  pure  alms  with  all  its  privileges  and  endowments,  a  moiety  of  the  ty  th€»r 
and  two  bovates  of  land  at  Gysnes,  the  church  of  Halge,  &c.*  AboAit  a  mile  north 
from  this  pretty  village  stands  Bank  Howe,  the  el^;ant  mansion  of  Jdiin  Tate^  ISaq. 
and  which  is  embosomed  in  the  midst  of  rich  and  brautif ul  plantatioi^ 

Newton  on  thb  MooR.-^This  healthy  and  pleasant  village  stands  on  the  great 
post-road,  about  six  mfles  south  from  Alnwick,  and  commands  an  extensive  prospect 
over  the  siurounding  country  and  of  the  sea  to  the  southward.  The  Rev.  Joseph 
Cook  resides  here  in  a  remaricably  neat  and  elegant  mansion,  called  Newton  HalL 
The  adjoining  lands  abound  with  limestone  of  an  excellent  quality,  and  lime-works 
are  briskly  carried  on.  The  kilns  chi  the  west  side  of  the  road  belong  to  the  Rev.  J. 
Cook ;  and  those  on  the  opposite  side  are  carried  on  by  Mr.  Beverstock,  who  holds 
them  of  Mr.  Jamieson,  of  Newcastle.  The  kilns  here  bum  about  5000  fothers  annually. 

About  a  mile  west  of  this  village,  near  Felton  moor,  there  has  been  a  large  entrench- 
ment or  camp,  and  which  probably  has  been  dependent  cm  that  very  large  one  near 
Shieldikes,  being  within  two  miles  of  it  to  the  south,  and  in  a  direct  line  between  it 
and  Druridge  Bay.  The  view  from  this  camp  is  very  extensive ;  northward  may  be 
seen  Bambrou^  Castle,  and  southward  Tytieniouth  Priory.  In  the  year  1800,  Mr. 
Thompson,  of  Felton  moor,  in  ploughing  within  the  outer  ditch  of  this  camp,  turned 
up  a  piece  of  iron  in  form  of  a  poker,  above  a  yard  long,  which  possessed  a  deamess 
somewhat  similar  to  that  of  polished  steel. 

FELTON  PARISH. 

/ 
This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Alnwick,  on  the  east  by  Warkworth,  on 
the  soutn  by  Hebbum,  and  on  the  west  by  the  chapelry  of  Longframlington.  It  is 
about  six  miles  in  length,  and  is  nearly  the  same  in  breadth.  The  soil  is  various,  but 
chiefly  incumbent  upon  stroitg  clay,  and  is  well  adapted  for  the  growth  of  grain.  It 
contains  277  houses,  and  1491  inhabitants.  There  are  five  schools  in  Feuon ;  two 
kept  by  masters  and  three  by  mistresses,  containing  together  116  children ;  also  a 
Church  Sunday-school,  established  in  1818,  attended  by  74  dbildren;  and  one  belong- 
ing to  the  Dissenters,  formed  in  1822,  attended  by  50  children.  Mr.  Robert  H^su- 
rige,  by  will  dated  1728,  left  to  the  poor  of  this  parish  a  rent-charge  of  £5  per  annum ; 
and  Mr.  Thomas  Heron,  in  1759,  the  sum  (H  £4, 17^  for  the  poor  not  receiving 
parish  relief.f 


*  Tanner,  in  hk  Notitia*  Monasdca,  ssys^  ''In  Uie  linooln  Tioation  funongrt  t&e  Temporalities,  there  is 
'  Priarissa  de  Gwysnes  in  archidiaoonatu  Northambriai  Ixxv^  vrd'  And  cart  35  Edw.  I.  n.  35,  '  Rex  eaoi* 
firmat  abbati  et  oonventni  de  Alnerico  oommuniam  in  tola  mom  et  pastura  de  Edelingham>  ad  omnia  averia 
sua,  tern  do  domo  de  Alnewyk  et  grangiis  suis,  quam  de  domo  de  Gysnes.'  But  more  of  this  house  I  cannot 
learn." 

t  Blind  Johnnj  Manfaall,  a  native  of  this  pariah,  and  who  died  aboot  two  yean  ago^  was  a  most  dngnlar 
character.  He  conld  play  tderably  well  upon  the  violin,  and  was  a  fiivourite  performer  at  lairs^  ftasts,  and 
merry  meetings.    He  travelled  regularly  over  the  adjoining  oountiy,  ISlc  the  ancient  minstrels,  collecting  the 


Fblton  ia  a  fine  village  pleasantly  seated  cm  a  steep  (^sdivil^r,  which  riaes  from  the 
north  side  of  the  river  Coquet.  It  is  about  9  miles  south  from  Alnwick,  and  104 
miles  north  from  Morpeth.  The  hoyses  are  built  on  each  side  of  the  great  post-road^ 
whidi  runs  through  it.  A  few  neat  weU-built  houses  branch  off  at  the  south-west 
end  qf  the  village.  The  suburb  is  also  finely  seated  on  tiie  south  side  of  the  river^ 
which  is  passed  by  a  good  stone  bridge,  with  three  arches,  founded  ypon  a  rock  of 
freestone.  At  the  southern  extremity  an  elegant  and  commodious  inn  was  lately 
erected  by  his  grace  the  Duke  of  Northumberland.  There  are  four  other  inns  and 
public  houses.  Formerly  the  banks  on  each  side  of  the  river  were  so  very  steep  as  tp 
refiner  the  passage  extremely  difficult  and  hazardous;  but  the.commissioneFs  of  the 
road  have  lately  decreased  the  declivity  considerably.  About  two  years  ago,  a 
liandsome  Presbyterian  chapel  was  erected  upon  an  eminence  a  little  south  from  the 
bndge ;  it  i^  well  attended. 

The  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael,  stands  on  a  pleasant  promontory  on 
the  north  side  of  the  river,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  village.  On  the  north-east 
side  is  a  convenient  vicarage-house,  over  the  entrance  of  whi^  is  the  following  in* 
scription ; — *^  a  1683  has  ^dks  fosuit  robb^tus  hbndebson  tbinatis  collbg. 

CANTAB.  TEMPOBE  BABBOWKI,  TEMPORE  HEWTONI,  SOCIUS ;  HUJUS  £T  ECCLESI^ 
NON  INDIGNUS  VICABIUS.     PIETATIS  ERGO  POSUIT  HOC  PATRI  FILIUS  TESTIMONIUM, 

1758."  The  vicarage  is  in  the  gift  of  the  king.*  A  subscription  library  was  esta^ 
btished  here  for  some  years,  but  is  now  dissolved,  in  consequence  of  a  dispute  amongst 
the  subscribers. 

Felton  was  a  depend^it  but  large  manor  of  the  barony  of  Mitford,  given  W  kii^g 
Henry  I.  to  Williiun  Bertram ;  for,  when  his  grandson,  William,  was  rated  for  tlus 
barony,  8  king  Ricnard  I.  this  manor  was  rated  equal  to  his  manor  of  Mitford,  at  Us. 

annual  gift  of  seed-oom  and  the  shearing  wool ;  and  could  pass  safely  the  most  intricate  and  dangerous  bye^ 
roads,  either  on  foot  or  upon  horseback.  One  very  dark  and  rainy  night,  be  conducted  a  9traqger  from 
Felton  to  Warkworth.  When  he  received  his  fee,  be  indignantly  observed,  Aat  it  vaa  ''a  d— 4  shame  to 
give  a  blind  man  a  bad  half-crown."  The  astonished  stranger  perceived,  for  the  first  time,  that  his  careful 
guide  was  really  blind,  and  immediately  took  back  the  bad  money,  and  rewarded  him.  Once,  wheif  Johnny 
was  crossing  a  field,  he  heard  some  partridges  rise  near  him :  he  instantly  tfafew  his  stafi^,  and  felled  one  of 
them,  which  he  picked  up  and  brought  home  for  bis  dinner.  He  was  a  true  sportsman,  and  always  hear4 
t^ith  raptures  the  cry  of  hounds  and  the  voice  of  the  huntsmen.  During  many  years,  he  kept  what  js  called 
a  Leather  Plater,  to  run  at  races  in  the  neighbourhood-  From  the  sound  of  his  own  horse's  feet,  when  pass* 
ing,  he  could  tell  what  place  he  held  in  the  race,  and  jndge  of  the  probabili^  of  his  winning.  He  excelled 
in  several  sports  and  games.  Few  could  compete  with  Johnny  in  playing  at  cards  or  quoits ;  and  when  he 
went  a  nutting,  his  wallet  was  always  first  filled,  and  he  uniformly  took  the  nearest  way  home.  He  fre- 
quently wrought  with  his  brother  as  a  blacksmith,  and  was  a  good  steady  striker :  but  indeed  he  was  an 
adept  in  many  mechanical  operations.  If  he  had  but  even  a  very  slight  acquaintance  with  a  person,  he  could 
recognize  his  voice  many  years  afterwards.  In  shoK,  he  afibrded  a  most  extraordinary  example  how  far  the 
want  of  the  sight  may  be  supplied  by  the  other  senses. 

*  The  Rev.  John  Mallory  was  vicar  during  the  civil  war  in  the  reign  of  king  Charles  L  He  was  not  only 
deprived  of  hia.living,  but  had  also  his  personal  estate  seized.  It  was  afterwards  forfeited  for  treason,  for 
which  he  was  condenmed  by  the  Rump  Parliament,  on  Nov.  18,  l65fL  But  we  are  ignoiant  of  the  nature  of 
the  crimes  alleged  against  him. 


488  COQUETDALE  WARD.— E.  D. 

because  it  had  these  lordships  appendant  to  it,  viz. ''  Perva-Felton,  Aketon;  Swarland, 
Over-Isgar,  Glently,  and  Framelinffton."  This  William,  5  king  John,  obtained  of 
that  king  a  grant  of  this  manor,  with  all  the  woods  thereunto  belonging,  that  it  should 
be  severed  from  the  forest,  with  the  liberty  of  hunting  there.  In  the  18th  king  Ed- 
ward II.  this  manor  belonged  to  Audomare  de  Valence,  Earl  of  Pembroke ;  for,  at- 
tending queen  Isabel  in  France,  17  king  Edward  II.  he  was  there  murdered;  and 
his  widow,  Marv,  daughter  of  Grey  de  Chastilian,  Earl  of  St.  Paul,  had  the  next  year, 
for  her  dowry,  tnis  manor  of  Felton,  with  part  of  Ponteland.  Sir  Gilbert  de  Umfrevil, 
bfluron  of  Prudhoe,  sold,  S5  Edward  III.  1365,  the  grange  of  Felton  and  ToUard,  and 
moors  of  Cheviot,  to  the  abbot  and  convent  of  Newminster.  10  Elizabeth,  1568,  our 
lady  queen  Elizabeth  is  seized  of  and  in  the  manor  of  Newminster,  late  an  abbey,  also 
of  manors  in  Felton.   This  place  passed  from  Peml»t)ke*s  widow  thi^ugh  the  successive 

Possessions  of  the  Earls  of  Athol ;  of  Sir  Thomas,  and  Sir  Ralph  Percy ;  of  Sir  John  le 
crope :  and  of  the  ancient  family  of  the  Lisles.  It  was  in  the  possession  of  Sir  Ro» 
bert  Xfisle,  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  11  king  Henry  IV.  and  9  king  Henry  V. 
It  was  possessed  by  Thomas  Lisle,  10  aueen  Ehzabeth ;  and  by  Robert  Lisle,  14 
king  Charles  I.  After  this  it  came  into  tne  possession  of  the  Widdringtons.  It  was 
left  by  Edward  Horsley  Widdrington,  Esq.  to  his  son-in-law,  the  late  Thomas  Rid- 
dell,  Esq.  of  Swinburne  Castle ;  and  is  now  the  property  of  his  son,  Ralph  Riddell,  Esq. 
At  Felton,  the  barons  of  Northumbeiland  did  homage  to  Alexander,  king  of  Scot- 
land, to  chastise  which  defection  kin^  John  levied  a  great  army,  and  in  1  SI  6,  march- 
ing northward,  made  great  devastations,  and  reduced  Felton  to  ashes.  In  the  year 
1745,  when  the  king's  army,  commanded  by  his  Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  Cum- 
berland, was  marching  towards  Scotland,  E.  H.  Widdrington,  Esq.  who  professed  the 
Roman  Catholic  religion,  caused  the  contents  of  his  weU-stored  cellar  to  be  carted  to 
the  street  of  the  village,  where  he  regaled  the  different  corps  as  they  advanced,  with 
bread,  beef,  and  beer.  His  Royal  lughness  himself  also  experienced  his  hospitality, 
and  at  parting  expressed  his  satisfaction  at  such  distinguished  liberality.  Mr.  W.  re- 
plied, tnat  he  wisiied  well  to  his  illustrious  family,  and  detested  internal  commotions, 
as  neither  plenty  nor  pleasure  could  be  enjoyed  independent  of  peace.  This  anecdote 
is  still  related  with  evident  satisfaction  by  the  old  inhabitants. 

The  scenes  near  Felton  are  romantic  and  beautiful ;  fine  rocks  and  hanging  woods 
form  the  margin  of  the  winding  river,  whilst  on  every  side  lies  a  rich  and  highly 
cultivated  country. 

Felton  Hall,  one  of  the  seats  of  Ralph  Riddell,  Esa.*  is  most  delightfu^  situate 
upon  a  fine  regular  eminence,  at  a  littie  distance  west  from  the  churdi.  The  lawn 
forms  a  fine  slope  to  the  southward,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  ver^ng 
river,  and  of  the  adjoining  lands.  The  mansion-house  is  circumscribed  with  an  ex- 
tensive ^k  of  rich  pasture,  ornamented  with  clumps  of  trees,  and  occasionally  with 
wild  native  woods.  From  this  noble  and  ancient  park  the  seat  is  often  called  Feltm 
Pari. 

*  Mr.  Riddell  is  the  proprietor  of  tbree  excellent  race^horses^  and  has  been  extremely  fortunate  in  tliB 
aporting  world.  Dr.  Syntax  has  won  setfetUeen  goU  cupsj  X  Y  Z,  nine  ;  and  Don  Carlos^  one.  Sudi  suooesa 
is  unprecedented  in  the  annals  of  racing.  • 


FELTON  PARISH,  489 

Acton  lies  to  the  north-east  of  Felton.  It  is  the  property  of  William  Adams, 
Esq.  Lmw  Acton  HaU  stands  in  a  fine  sheltered  situation.  It  is  now  undergoing 
consida^ble  alterations,  and  will,  when  finished,  be  extremely  commodious.  The 
adjoining  lands  are  very  beautiful,  and  the  soil  of  an  excefient  quality.  High 
Acton  Souse  is  built  on  a  salubrious  eminence,  and  commands  a  most  extensive  land 
and  sea  prospect.  At  some  little  distance  southward  stands  Brainshaughy  in  a  fine^ 
beautiful  situation,  on  the  banks  of  the  Coquet  The  house  is  a  neat  building,  and  is 
sweetly  embosom^  amidst  thriving  plantations.  Both  these  places  are  the  property 
of  Robert  de  Lisle^  Esq. 

SwARLAND  is  a  small  village,  distant  about  two  miles  north-west  from  Felton. 
Previous  to  the  Norman  conquest,  Swarland  estate  was  possessed  by  the  English  fa- 
mily of  Hesilrige;  and  in  that  family  remained  until  the  17th  century,  when  it  was 
forfeited,  from  the  well-known  part  that  the  family  took  in  the  grana  rebellion.  It 
was  again  granted  to  them  by  James  II. 4  and  the  last  baronet  dying  about  the  year 
1740,  it  was,  with  many  others  in  the  county  which  they  possessed  (such  as  Weetsled, 
Woosington,  Fawdon,  &c.  &c.),  sold  by  the  court  of  chancery.  Swarland  was  bought 
by  Richard  Grieve,  of  Alnwick,  whose  son,  Davidson  Richard  Grieve,  Esq.  built 
Swarland  HaU,  on  a  division  of  a  common  allotted  to  the  estate  about  1765 ;  and 
dying  without  issue,  it  was  sold  by  his  widow,  in  1795,  to  Alexander  Davison,  Esq, 
who,  in  1800,  greatly  added  to  the  appearance  of  the  house  and  grounds  by  planting 
and  other  improvemaits,  which  have  rendered  it  one  of  the  most  nandsome  and  com, 
modious  seats  in  the  county.  The  extensive  park  in  front  is  beautifully  diversified 
by  clumps  of  young  trees,  tastefully  disposed. 

Swarland  Old  HaU,  situated  at  the  west       u  Here  lies  the  Body  of  William  Hesileigb, 
end  of  the  village,  was  built  by  the  family  who  departed  this  Life  April  12, 1681, 

of  Hesilnge  about  the  year  1640,  in  the  ^^  gg  Years 

very  worst  style  of  architecture  and  bad  This  was  Grandson  to  Esquire, 

taste,  which  then  prevailed ;  and  nothing  y^^  ^  lie  here  was  his  desire ; 

but  a  gable  of  an  old  castle,  or  keep,  re-  p,^;^^^  j^^,  jj^  here  enshrirfd, 

mams,  of  greater  antiqmty .     It  is  now  con-  Which  ind 

verted  into  a  farm-house.    Near  the  north-  a  n  ^^llxi  JJJ.1  Vi  a'a  '  uu  ' ' 

.  «  n  /»  1 J      -x     ^  xu  -A.II  wordly  pomp  he  did  abhor, 

west  comer  of  a  small  field,  situate  on  the  ^  „ j       -^  ^    ^^  » 

north  and  west  sides  of  a  plantation  adjoin-  ^^^ 

ing  Swarland  Old  Hall,  is  a  tomb-stone,  h'  *  d"  t  *  '*'  ht'h  "  " '  *  * '  * ' !  V  *,'  ^ 

now  sunk  level  with  the  surface,  with  the  ^'!   ^L^^ rr  T^.^^^^^7\     «  ^' 

annexed  inscription  unon  it    The  stone  is  ^'^  *=^***  ^  ^  »'  *^"  ^  ^^y- 

now  so  much  defaced  bv  time,  that  in  the  year  1800,  the  above  was  all  that  eould  be 
transcribed.    The  inscription  is  rudely  cut  in  Roman  capitals. 

Nelson's  Monument. — ^Mr.  Davison  has  erected,  dose  to  the  post-road,  a  monu- 
ment to  the  memory  of  the  immortal  hero,  with  whom  it  appears  he  lived  in  habits 
of  the  greatest  friendship.  It  is  an  obelislc,  formed  of  freestone,  of  considerable  height 
and  size,  on  which  are  tne  following  inscriptions :  on  the  body  of  the  obelisk — "  Eng- 
land EXPECTS  EVEEY  MAN  TO  DO  HIS  DUTY."  On  the  pedestal — "  NOT  TO  COM- 
MEMORATE THE   PUBLIC  VIRTUE  AND  HEROIC  ACHIEVEMENTS  OF  NELSON,   WHICH 

VOL.  I.  6  H 


480  COQUETOAS4]!  WikRIX^E.  D. 

(S  THE  DXPFir*  OF  SNGLAKD,  BUT  TO  THE  MfMOEY  OF  PSJVATE  FBI:END3HIF,  THIS 
S&£CTK>N  IS  IMBDICATEDy  BY  Ai.£:SCANI>^»  DAVISON.'^ 

Gx«ANTLEEfi^  township  liea  oe  the  Qorth-west  extremity"  of  the  parish.  Elyhangh 
Ham^  stands  in  a.  pleasi^it  and  seq[uestered  situation  on  the  north  brink  of  the  0>- 
qu€|^  about,  two  ixul^  west  from.  Fetton.  It  is  inclosed  by  abrupt  banks,  natural 
woods,  and  high  lai;idjs>  The  bouse  is  now  occuj^ied  by  a  iarmer,  and  is  the  property 
erf  Mr.  Temp^ley,  of  Lpndpn. 

Thirston,  Eshott,  and  Bockenfield  townships,  in  this  parish,  are  included  ui 
the  East  Division  of  Morpeth  Ward. 

Thirston  is  situated  at  a  short  distance  south  from  the  Coq[uet  The  lands  here 
are  of  a  loamy  nature,  and  very  productive.  Thirston  House  stands  pleasanl^  ne^ 
the  Coquet,  and  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  Felton.  It  belongs  to  TliomsK 
SmitK  Esq.  JEast  Thirston  lies  a  little  further  to  the  east.  It  consists  of  two  farm- 
holds and  a  few  cottages,  and  is  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland. 

Eshott  is  a  fine  estate,  situated  about  three  miles  soath-east  of  Felton,  and  QOQtains 
an  excellent  seam  of  coal.  It  was  long  in  possession  of  the  ancient  femily  of  Carr, 
and  was  the  property  of  William  Carr,  Esq.  high  sheriff  of  Northumberland,  8  queen 
Anne ;  and  of  Thomas  Carr  (father  of  Colbnel  Carr  of  Hexham),  who  also  fiUfa  the 
same  high  office  in,  the  18th  of  George  III.  It  afterwards  came  into  the  possession 
of  the  latp  li'homas,  Adams,  Esq.  of  Alnwick,  and,  vas  lately  purchased  by  his  ne- 

?hew,  William  Adams,  Esq..  of  Acton.    The  hall  is  undergoing  a  complete  repair, 
'he  colliery  here  was  abandoned  about  20  years  ago. 

Bockenfield  township  lies  west  from  Eshott,  and  is  the  property  of  Ralph  Rid* 
dell,  Esq.  The  high  eminence  near  this  place,  called  Helm  on  me  HiUy  over  which 
the  great  post-road -was  carried;  is  now  avoided  by  a  new  branch  formed  on,  its  west 
side,  by  which  the  road  is  also  shortened. 

LONGFB-AMLINGTQN  CHAPELRY 

Lies  west  from  Felton  parish,  and,  induding  Brinkbum,  high  and  low  ward^  andt 
Brinkbum  south  side,  contains  156  houses  and  840  inhabitants.  The  l{md,  in  general, 
particularly  to  tiie  south  and  east  of  the  village,  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  well 
adapted  fpr  growing  grain  and  cultivating  grasses.  Some  fields  are  noted  for  feeding 
Cheviot  sheep,  with  cows  and  cattle  of  a  secondary  size;  but  the  surface  of  the  soil  is 
of  too  tender  a  texture  for  the  growth  of  that  herbage  which  is  required  for  fattening 
bullocks  of  the  first  Qr4ei'.  On  the  north  and  west,  the  soil  is  of  an  inferior  quality, 
and,  about.  80  years  ago,  was  covered  with  whins  and  heath,  when  a  division  of  the 
best  parta  took  plape,  leaying  an  oblonfip  txact,  consisting  of  about  1000  acres,  of  the 
wilder  and  most  dreary,  moor-land  in  the  county.  Under  the  improved  grounds  are 
valuable  strata,  of  freestone  and  limestone,  and  suso  a  mine  of  coal  of  the  best  quality* 
But  fpom  the  many  little  allotments  into  which  the  whole  is  divided,  and  every  man 


LONGFRAMUNGTON  CHAPBLRY.  491 

beii^  hrct  of  kia  own  mmmr^  this  useful  fossil  has  never  been  extracted!  in  any  eonsi* 
derable  quantities.  In  Pr^mJitigtan  Moor^  about  two  miles  north  of  the  viUage,  there 
are  a  gf eat  number,  of  cairns,  scalteied  over  several  acres  of  ground.  They  are  all 
composed  of  loose  stones^  but  vary  much  in  their  size ;  some  of  them  being  nine  or 
ten  leet  high,  and  others  not  more  than  three  or  four.  There  is.  no  tradition  respect- 
ing the  cause  of  thekr  being  erected,  nor  does  it  appew  (observes  a  correspondent)  that 
they  have  evec  been^  noti^  before  l^  any  writer.  Indeed,  the  situation  in  which 
they  are  placed  is  so  remote,  and  the  access  to  them  so  difficult,  that  very  few  people  in 
the  neighboiurhood  have  either  seen  or  heard  of  them.  In  the  adjoining  farm  of  Ca* 
nada,  on  the  banks  of  a  rivulet,  there  are-  huge  heaps  of  slag,  or  seoriee,  such  as  is  pro- 
duced by  smeltinff  kon-stone^  As  the  iron  has  been  very  imperfectly  extracted,  it 
Bftust  have  been  done  at  a  remote  period,  when  the  art  of  fluxing  metals  was  little 
known.  Probably  it  was  a  work  of  the  Romans.  This  conjecture  is  strengthened 
by  the  place  being  nearly  adjoining  Herman-streetj  the  ancient  Roman  road,  which  i& 
very  perfect  in  many  parta  oi  this  parish. 

LoKOFRAMLiNQioN  is  situate  on  that  branch  of  the  north  road,  which  leads  by 
way  of  Coldstream  to  Edinburgh.  It  is  distant  11  miles  north  by  west  from  Mor* 
peth,  5  milea  east  from  Rothbury,  and  10)  miles:  south  by  west  from  Alnwick.  It  is 
a  long  straggling  village,  extending  from  west  ta  east ;  but  at  the  eleven  miles  stone 
it  takes  a  northern  direction,  thus  forming  a  %ure  s<Hnewhat  like  the  letter  L.  ^ere- 
are  four  public  houses  in  the  village,  the  appearance  of  which,  is  much  improved' 
within  these  few'  years,  a  number  of  decent  oomfortalde  houses'  having  been  built, 
which  are  inhabited  by  respectable  tradesmen  and  shopkeepers.  There  is  ^  Chapet  of 
Ease  here,  belonging  to  the  vicarage  of  Fekon,  in  which  dhrine  service  ia  now  per-^ 
formed  twice  every  Sunday.  Th»e  is  also  in  the  village  a  Presbyterian  meetings 
house.*  Durinff  the  summer  months,  there  is  a  Sunday-school  here.  This  plac«>  was 
formerly  very  ill  supplied  with  water,  tjae  want  of  which  was  severely  felt  in  dry  sea^ 
sons.  jDuring  a  contested  election,,  one  q&  the  candidates  offered  to-  conrey  water  to 
tjbree  diflei»nt  parts  of  the  viUi^  fi)om  the  CMtt  Mope  spring  on  Rimside  Mill,  pro^ 
vided  the  freeboldera  would  ensure  him  their  unanimous  sumages ;  but  three  votera 
rejected  tins  tempting  proposal  However,  in  the  year  1821,  through  the  ^irited 
exertions  of  Mr.  Hemry  Trewhitt,  innkeeper^  a  libend.  subscription  was  laimd  to  sank: 
a  pump  well,  from  whidi  the  inhabitants  are  now  abundantly  supplied  with  good  and 
whokMme  water. 

Framlington  is  partly  tythe-free;  The  tythes  belmiflped  to  the  late  Mr.  Mcmcaster^ 
of  WaDsend,  who,  a  few  years  before  his  death,  gave  me  township  an  opportunity  to> 
purchase  them.  The  tythes  whieh  some  individuals  refiised  to  purchase,  were  bought 
oy  the  late  Mr.  WiUiam  Fenwick,  of  Morpeth,  on  whose  death  they  came  into  the 

*  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  Pre8b3rterian  copgregntions  in  England,  It  is  said  that  a  Mr.  Hesilrige  (proba* 
biy  tHe  son  of  the  la^t  baronet  of  that  name^  who  died  in  l640)  had  a  chapel,  and  maintained  a,Pk«3byterian 
tninister  in  his  own  house ;  and  that  all  who  attended  divine  service  there  on  the  Sabbath  were  served  with  beef 
and  broth.  After  thi»  gentleman  died,  the  congregation  still  cSontinued  their  communion  in  a  house  on  the 
south  side  of  F^ramlington.  At  length  they  purchased  a  piece  of  ground,  and^  in  1739^  erected  the  present 
email  but  neat  ohapeL    The  history  of  this  religioas  body  is  traced  back  even  further  than  the  year  16W. 


492  COQUETDALE  WARD— E.  D. 

possession  of  his  nephew,  James  Fenwick,  Esq.  of  Longwitton.    Their  valne^  it  is 
said,  is  more  than  doubled  since  the  time  they  were  offered  for  sale. 

It  appears  by  an  inquest,  held  at  Newcastle  49  kins  Henry  III.  (1265),  that  Fram- 
lington  was  one  of  the  manors  belonging  to  John  Se  Esjington,  which  he  held  of 
Roger  Bertram,  for  one  knight's  fee.  When  that  family  became  extinct,  about  the 
time  of  king  Henry  VIII.  it  is  probable  that  the  estate  of  Framlington  had  been 
sold  in  smaU  portions ;  for,  till  lately,  there  were  a  great  number  of  freeholds,  each 
occupied  by  its  respective  owner.  But  the  principal  landholder  has  purchased  many 
of  these  little  estates,  so  that  the  number  of  the  freeholders  is  diminished.  There  are, 
however,  still  seventeen  freeholders  in  the  village  of  Framlington. 

Newmoar  House^  in  this  chapelry,  is  seated  on  the  steep  banks  of  a  beautiful  rivu- 
let,  finely  clothed  with  wood.  It  was  for  many  years  the  seat  of  the  family  of  the 
Manners.  But  a  correspondent  informs  us,  that  the  Hall-hill,  which  is  finely  seated 
on  the  summit  of  a  small  knowl,  at  a  short  distance  from  Newmoor  House,  was  the 
ancient  seat  of  this  distinguished  family.  It  seems  to  have  been  oririnally  a  strong 
building,  calculated  to  prevent  a  sudden  surprise,  and  of  that  kind  oQled  Bastiles  in 
this  county.  So  late  as  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  the  Newmoor  House  and 
Hall-hiU  were  possessed  by  two  brothers,  descendants  of  the  gallant  Sir  Robert  de 
Manners.  Edward,  the  voungest,  died,  leaving  a  son,  John :  the  eldest,  John,  left 
four  daughters,  who  jointly  possessed  the  estate  of  Newmoor  House.  John  Manners^ 
of  Hail-hill,  married  the  youngest  of  these  ladies ;  and,  on  being  honoured  with  a 
captaincy  by  his  noble  relative,  the  late  Marquis  of  Granby,  he  accompanied  his  regi- 
ment to  Gibraltar,  where  he  died.  He  had  issue  two  daughters,  one  of  whom  died 
in  her  minority,  and  the  other  married  James  Fenwick,  of  Longwitton  Hall.  The 
Misses  Manners,  who  possessed  Newmoor  House,  sold  their  estates  some  years  after 
their  father's  decease  to  Mr.  Ilderton,  in  whose  familv  it  remained  till  the  year  1806, 
when  it  was  sold  to  Alexander  Davison,  Esq.  of  Swarland.  The  Hall-hill  is  supposed 
to  have  been  built  on  the  scite  of  a  Roman  post,  from  the  remains  of  a  triple  entrench- 
ment, which  encircles  the  farmstead.  Here  is  also  a  small  enclosure  called  the  Ever« 
green,  which  contains  the  foundations  of  a  building  now  covered  with  turf.  Some 
call  the  place  the  Old  Kirk ;  while  others,  with  more  probabihty,  conjecture  that  it 
has  been  a  fort.  The  traces  of  platforms,  on  which  cannon  seem  to  have  been 
planted,  are  still  visible  on  the  south,  north,. and  east  sides.  About  thirty  years'  ago, 
several  large  stones  were  dug  up  at  this  place :  they  appeared  as  if  newlv  cut  out  of 
the  quarry,  being  remarkably  dean  and  unsullied.  Mr.  JDavison  has  lately  expended 
a  very  large  sum  of  money  in  improving  the  estate  of  Newmoor  House,  as  well  as  the 
adjoining  one  called  Overgrass  Farm.  Low  FramUn^^ton  is  the  property  of  J.  P^ 
Jj,  Fenwick,  Esq,  and  WiBiam  Alder,  Esq.  of  Glanton. 

Weldon  Bridge,  so  called  from  a  neat  stone  bridge  which  here  crosses  the  Co- 
quet, i§  pleasantly  seated  on  the  north  margin  of  the  river.  The  inn  is  a  very  neat 
^  and,  commodious  building,  at  the  east  end  of  which  the  road  passes.  It  is  the  pro- 
perty of  Robert  dp  Lisle,  Esq.  Low  Weldon  stands  on  the  north  brink  of  the  river, 
about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  road.  It  belongs  to  Ralph  Riddell,  Esq,  of  Felton 
Park,  Weldtm  Hall  is  seated  on  a  fine  eminence  east  of  the  Coldstream  road,  and 
north  of  the  river  Coquet,  whose  eccentric  course  through  a  beautiful  vale  combines 


f 


f 


i  2 


LONGFRAMLINGTON  CHAFELRY.  49S 

to  form  the  most  picturesque  scenery  imaginfible.  This  hail  was  lon^  the  family  n^ 
sidence  of  the  lisles,  whidb  is  now  traasferred  to  Actcsi  House.  It  is,  however,  still 
inhabited,  and  the  gardens  are  kqpt  in  tolerable  repair ;  but  the  exterior  of  both  exhi^ 
bit  the  innovations  o£  time. 

Brinkbubk,  High  and  Low  Ward,  is  now  annexed  to  the  chapehy  of  Loww 
fhunlington.  Brinkbum  extends  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  two  in  breadth^ 
and  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Coquet.  The  lands  are  in  general  very  fertile,  and  a 
vsduable  seam  of  excellent  coal  extends  over  the  greater  part.  It  is  also  rich  in  lim&i 
stone,  whidi  forms  so  necessary  an  article  in  the  improved  system  of  agriculture* 
Both  coal  and  lime  works  are  carried  on  very  briskly.  A  new  road  has  lately  been 
opened,  which  leads  westward  from  Wddon  Bridge,  and  joins  the  old  Rothbury  road 
al  Brinkbum  New  Houses.     The  colliery  stands  between  ttke  latter  place  and  the  river. 

Bainkbukn  Peiguy  is  distant  9^  miles  north-west  from  Morpeth,  8^  miles  wesit 
by  south- from  Felton,  and  above  4  miles  south-east  of  Rothbury.  It  is  most  delight* 
fully  situate  in  a  deep  vale,  on  a  small  peninsula  formed  by  the  meandering  Coquet, 
part  of  the  wafls  being  washed  by  its  waters.  The  opposite,  or  southern  shore,  is 
bounded  by  a  semicircular  and  lofty  ridge  of  shaggy  rocks,  mantled  with  ivy,  and 
beautifully  overhung  with  a  variety  of  fine  trees,  pknts,  and  shrubs.  On  the  north, 
it  is  surrounded  with  steep  and  verdant  banks,  whereby  the  structure  is  concealed  and 
out-topped  on  all  sides,  and  can  only  be  approached  by  a  slant  cut  through  the  rock 
on  the  west  side,  or  by  following  the  bed  oi  the  river  on  the  east.* 

A  great  pert  oi  this  venerable  pile  has  been  demolished ;  and  its  church,  which  was 
in  the  cathedral  form,  has  shared  in  the  devastation.  The  square  tower  of  the  church, 
a  small  spire,  many  noble  pillars  and  ardiies,  and  some  of  its  side- walls,  with  the  dor^ 
mitory  belonging  to  the  priory,  are  the  principal  remains.  These  vestiges  of  mona». 
tic  grandeur  (some  of  wMdi:  are  yet  entire),  aaa  a  large  group  of  moulderinff  fragments, 
ricmy  varied  with  the  tints  of  time,  being  adjoined  by  Brinkbum  Park  and  othep 
forests  of  fine  wood,  make  a<  piefiure  inexpressibly  charming,  espedaUy  when  viewed 
with  the  light  and  shade  riefeeived  from  a  western  sun.  Its  recluse  situation ;  the  exn 
treme  stillness,  undisturbed,  exicept  by  the  birds,  and  the  murmuf  s  o(  the  Coquet ; 
fi»gmeiit.9  of  sepulchral  monmnients ;  the  gloomy  shade  oi  the  venerable  ivy  and  .the 
evergreens,  witii  whdcb  the  nsdns,  in  many  parts^  are  crowned  and  overgrown ;  give  a 
solemnity  to  the  place,  and  display  an  agreeable  combination  of  objbe&  impressive^ 
grand  and  picturesque,  inspiring  the  beholder  with  a  contemplative  melancholy, 
oftentimes  pbasing  aft  well  as  proper  to- indulge. 

Mr.  Gro^e  <:4>serves»  that  ^' these  ruins  exhibit  o^e  amcoig  the  m^^y  instances 
wh^ein  efapcuIiBi;  and  pdinted  arches  oeeur  in  the  same  building,  and  that  in  parts  ma* 
nifestiy  eonstraeted  at  the  same  tfane ;  which  shews^  that  about  the  paiod  or  its  erec« 
tion,  there  was  a  kind  of  straggle  between  the  lindent  mode  or  8ax<Ni,  and  what  is 
caUed  Gothic  architecture ;  in  whidi  neitiber  style  then  tiioroughly  prevailed.  The 
upper  range  of  windows  in  tiiis  church  are  dOi  drcuhtr;  those  iiitoiediately  under' 

*  ^^Oa  our  Bppvmik  by  die  anciont  cainwiwey,  Ibtf  flratview  we'htdof  it,  within Uie  disttaoe  of  150  y^rds, 
waa  ftooa  9iich  aa'amiuesce^  and  so  inimedktely  aboirtf  it,  thai  me  looked  into  die  interior  parts  of  die  nlfti& 
Xibi»ia  the.  moit.melaaolioly' Slid  d0eptelted0^.c  fbrareBgioiiaedlfite^  I  ever  yet  vidtedw^^^^Ar^cttuei^ 

VOL,  I.  6  1 


494  COQUETDALE  WARD.—E.  D; 

tiiem  are  pointed.  Two  doors,  one  on  the  north,  the  other  on  the  south,  have  oireuLir 
arches  (of  various  memhers,  falling  back,  supported  on  pilasters),  richly  adorned  with 
a  variety  of  Saxon  ornaments,  particularly  that  on  the  norths  which  has,  among  others, 
the  heads  of  animals.  These  are  generally  deemed  the  most  ancient  decorations  of 
that  style.  The  great  tower  has  rour  pointed  arches,  and  others  of  the  same  shape 
are  supported  by  massy  octagonal  pillars  in  the  body  of  the  church.  There  have  been 
burials  here  as  late  as  the  year  1745.  At  the  east  end,  and  in  the  north  and  south 
crosses,  were  chapels ;  in  one  of  which  are  divers  fn^ments  of  coffins  and  human 
bones.     On  the  whole,  though  this  building,  except  about  the  doors,  is  remarkably 

Slain,  it  has  a  sober  and  solemn  majesty,  not  always  found  in  buildings  more  highly 
ecorated.  Part  of  this,  perhaps,  it  may  owe  to  its  romantic  situation,  which  is  the 
most  proper  in  the  world  for  retirement  and  meditation."  In  clearing  away  the  rub- 
bish some  years  ago,  a  circular  staircase,  communicating  with  the  body  of  the  church, 
was  laid  open,  and  vaults  for  interment,  formed  like  the  kisfvaen,  discovered.  The 
shell  of  this  ancient  church  was  occasionally  used,  until  the  end  of  the  last  century, 
both  for  nuptial  and  sepulchral  purposes.  -  Above  60  years  ago,  a  plan  was  proposed 
for  repairing  a  part  of  the  building  for  the  performance  of  divine  service,  and  a  brief 
was  obtained  for  that  end ;  but  the  subscription,  though  liberal,  seems  to  have  been 
applied  to  other  purposes. 

Near  the  south-west  angle  of  the  church  stands  a  house,  which  some  suppose  to 
have  been  built  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  offices  belonging  to  the  monastry ;  but  others, 
with  great  probability,  imagine,  that  this  building  is  the  remains  of  a  range  of  houses, 
which  were  erected  on  the  brink  of  the  river  about  the  tinie  that  the  monastry  was 
founded :  they  observe,  that  there  is  a  subterraneous  communication  between  these 
abodes  and  the  priory,  for  the  conveniency  of  Ihe  canons ;  and  that  the  whole  cluster 
of  buildings  must  have  suffered  in  one  common  conflagration,  after  which  this  house 
seems  to  have  been  repaired  from  the  ruins  of  the  others.  It  was  again  falling  rapidly 
into  ruin,  when  the  late  Mr.  Hetherington  begun  a  complete  repair,  which  was 
finished  by  Major  Hodgson. 

.  In  removing  some  ruins  from  the  offices  attached  to  this  structure,  some  mutilated 
mouldings,  urns,  &c.  were  discovered;  but  no  inscriptions  which  might  eluci- 
date the  history  of  this  sacred  retreat.  From  a  variety  of  circumstances,  it  seems  to 
possess  claims  to  a  very  high  antiquity ;  and  Brinkbum  Grove*  was  probably  devoted 
to  the  worship  of  Jupiter,  ere  the  Christian  priests,  in  this  secluded  retreat,  had  begun 
thdbr  holy  vespers  to  the  Blessed  Virgin.f 

■ 

*  There  is  a  tradition  in  Northumberland^  that  Brinkburn  was  dunminded  by  a  thick  wood,  which  in 
minfmer  obscured  the  rays  of  the  sun  at  noon-day,  and  rendered  all  approach,  except  by  the  river,  impracti- 
cable. So  completely  was  the  monastry  concealed)  -that  k  party  of  Scottiflih  Borderers  endeavoured  in  vain  to 
discover  it,  until  the:  canons,  'svpposiniic  that  they  had  vetn^ited,  nmg  the  bell.  Their  enemies  marked  the 
direction  from  whence  the  sound  proceeded,  and  cutting  a  way  through  the  wood,  entered  the  monastry  while 
the  priests  were  at  pmyet-8,«and,  afiier  pillaging  the  holy  fabric,  set  it  on  fire,  with  all  its  appendages.-^Mr.  Wal« 
lia  says  (but  does  not  state  his  authority)  that  the  bell  of  the  church  was  removed  to  the  cathedral  at  Durham. 

t  On  this  subject  a  learned  correspondent  offers  the  following  remarks ;— ^''  The  branch  cf  Watlin^*street, 
or  Devil's  Cauf^eway,  that  takes  an  easterly  direction  from  Portgate,  crosses  the  river  Coquet  a  little  below 
Brinkbum  Priory.'   The  remains  of  the  piers  of  the  Roman  bridge  are  perfectly  distinct  when  the  river  ia 


K 


LOl^GlPRAMLINGTO]*  CttAt^ELHY.  J*&K 

Brinkbum  Priory  was  founded  in  the  reign  of  king  Henry  !•  and  dedicated  to  St* 
3Peter,  by  William  de  Bertram,  baron  of  Mitford,  with  the  approbation  of  his  wife 
ahd  his  three  sons.     He  placed  therein  black  canons,  or  canons  regular,  of  the  order  of 
St.  Augustin,  from  the  monastry  de  Insula,  Osbertus  Colutarius  being  Superior,  and 
todowed^  it  with'  lands  out  of  his  wastes,  confirmed  both  by  his  wife  Hawys,  and 
Roger  his  eldest  son  and  heir.     He,  moreover,  gave  to  it  Thornhau^h,  Pdrderhaugh^ 
Papwithhaugh  (Pauperhaugh),  Over-Helsy,  and  Nether-Helsy,  with  the  Woods  be- 
longing to  them ;  also  a  wood  to  the  east  of  Helsy,  extending  from  Lihkburn  to  the 
river  Coquet ;  and  to  these  gifts  he  added  that  of  an  annual  present  of  twenty  fishes 
out  of  his  fishery  )at  Coquet.     His  son  Roger  gave  it  140  acres  of  his  waste  lands  in 
Even  wood,  with  a  share  of,  his  wastes  near  Framlington ;  also  liberty  to  cut  timber 
out  of  his  woods  for  necessary  uses,  with  the  privilege  of  killing  game.    Prince  Henry 
of  Scotland,  earl  of  Northumbetland,  gave  to  it  a  salt- work  at  Warkworth :  he*  and 
his  son,  William  de  Warren,  of  the  family  of  the  Earls  Warren,  by  his  mother's  side^ 
and  named  after  them,  confirmed  to  it  all  its  possessions  and  privileges:  these  were 
also  coniBrined  by  several  royal  charters.    Half  of  the  manor  of  Netherterwhit  (Low 
Trewhit)  belonged  to  it,  with  the  appropriations,  and  advowson  of  Felton.    Ralph 
Lord  Graystock,  at  the  instance  of  Johanna  his  mother,  gave  also  the  impropriation 
and  advowson  of  Long  Horsley  to  this  priory,  in  the  8th  year  of  the  reign  of  king 
Richard  II.     The  convent,  in  return,  agreed,  that  she  and  her  heirs,  lords  of  Morpeth, 
for  ever  should  have  the  nomination  of  one  canon  there;  and  AUan,  son  of  John  de 
Prestwick,  was  the  first  nominee  under  that  power.     William  Hogeston  was  the  last 
prior.     In  the  year  1477,  on  the  20th  of  September,  being  the  fourth  year  of  the  pon- 
tificate of  William  Dudley^  Ixvi*.  viijrf.  was  paid  to  the  prior  of  Brinkbum,  the  bishop's 
sufiragan,  proregardo  stto.     At  the  time  of  the  suppression  of  reli^ous  houses,  there 
were  ten  canons  here,  and  the  revenue  was  estimated  by  DugdsSe  at  £68,  19^.  \d* 
and  by  Speed  at  £77. 

Brinkburn  was  granted  to  John  Earl  of  Warwick,  4  king  E^dward  VI.  In  the 
same  reign  it  came  into  the  possession  of  George  Fenwick,  Esq;  of  the  ancient  family 
of  the  Fenwicks  of  Fenwick  Tower.  He  was  a  commissions  for  indosures  upon  the 
Middle  Marches.  During  the  reign  of  king  Charles  I.  it  belonged  to  George  Fen- 
wick, Esq.  **  son  of  another  George,  and  grandson  of  Tristram  Fenwick,*  a  cadet  of 

'km,  particularly  the  aaUer  work  on  the  north  dde,  covered  with  elm  trees ;  and  on  the  hill  above  the  prioiy 
are  evident  traces  of  a  Roman  villa  a  few  yards  from  the  military  way^  the  rampart  and  ditch  across  the  neck 
of  land  being  very  apparent;  likewise  the  foandations  of  houses  and  lines  of  the  street  But  undoubtedly 
the  stones  had  been  all  used  for  building  the  priory ;  though  I  have  never  heard  of  any  Roman  antiquities 
being  found  amongst  the  ruins." 

*  The  act  of  attainder  that  followed  the  northern  rebellion  in  the  reign  of  que^i  Elizabeth^  includes  the 
following  Nortiiumbrian  names : — Tristram  Fenwick  of  Brinkbume  (a  younger  son  of  the  house  of  East 
Heddon)^  from  whose  grandson.  Colonel  Fenwick  of  Brinkbume,  the  Williamsons  inherit  their  estates  at 
Monkwearmouth;  Cuthbert  Armour  of  Belford,  gent,  whose  descendants,  however,  preserved  their  property 
to  8acri6ce  it  in  the  cause  of  Charles  I. ;  Robert  CoUingwood,  gent,  of  Abberwick ;  Robert  Collingwood  of 
Etall,  gent;  and  George  Horsley  of  Acklington  Park,  gent  Saddler's  letters  also  mention,  as  engaged  in 
the  rebellion,  **  Tony  Schaftoe  and  -— —  Ogle ;"  both  of  them  names  too  extensive  in  Northumberland  to 
admit  of  identifying  the  individuals.  The  latter  was  perhaps  Gregory  Ogle  of  Choppington,  whose  lands  are 
accounted  for  in  a  list  of  confiscations  printed  in  the  appendix  to  Saddler^s  papers.— 'j^ur^ee^'  Dur.  vol  i.  p.'lxxm. 


490  CPQXJETPAX^  WAIV»— IS.  D. 

the  House  of  8tantpn/'  Be  wa^  higUy  4^tiiiguished  in  tbe  su^v^  sq/me^  of  that 
turbulept  pei||d.*  T^  l^t  xifi^e  bran(;h  of  tlm  family  was  George  F^iwiok,  £$9; 
whose  daughter  and  heir,  Elizabeth,  iparfied  flqg^'  Fenwidc,  of  Stmtpiu  £sq. 
^y  whom  1^  had  four  ch^dren,  the  eldest  of  which,|  John  F^pwiql^  marrying  Marga- 
re^i  QD^  of  t)ie  daughters  and  coheirs  of  WiUiam  Fenwick,  of  Bywell^  Esq.  ocx^oued 
the  union  of  the  two  ancient  houses  of  Brinkburn  and  Stanton  to  thai  of  Bywe^l, 
whi^h  were  all  three  possessed  by  AViUiam  Fenwick,  Esq,  of  BywelL  Oxx  hi&  aeath» 
they  devolved  on  the  late  William  Fenwick,  Esq.  hia  aon  and  neir,  who,  previous  to 
$49  <^^th,  sold  Brinkburn  estate  to  Mr*  Hetherington,  of  London.  He  ^ing  soon 
fftef wards*  it  devolved  on  his  brother,  tbe  late  Jc^n  Hetherington,  Elsq.  of  Brampton, 
in  Ciimberland.  He  was  succeeded  by  Major  Hodgson,  of  Moorhouse  Hall,  in  the 
aWDe  county,  who  married  his  only  daught^  wid  heir.  This  gentleman  effected  se^ 
Y^riE^l  ^nproven^uts  on  this  interesting  esti^te,  which  he  afterwards  sold  to  the  hte, 
$l{^h  WiUiw^  Qrey,  Esq,  of  Backwarth»,  whose  widow  i&  the  present  pi>eprietor« 

*  George  Feu^id^^  q(  Brinkburn^  was  a  oofenel  in  the  servioe  of  tbf  Parliament  and  of  CromweU^  and  one 
of  the  committee  fo?  th^  ejection  of  i|paQda],ou$  Qunisters,  He  app^^rs  to  have  been  a  person  of  considerably, 
military  talents.  He  was  appointed  governor  of  the  important  tpwn  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed ;  and  wa^  pre^ 
sented  with  100/.  for  his  distinguished  services  in  Ireland.  In  the  yeac  164S,  he,  in  ooiqunction  with  Colonel 
LUburn  and  Mr.  Saunderson^  defeated  Sir  Richard  Tempest,  and  took  several  officers  an/i  gentlemen  of  oon<^ 
sequence  prisoners.  With  his  own  horse,  aided  by  a  few  dragoons,  he  relieved  Holy  Island,  and  surprised 
Fenham  Castle,  which  was  then  garrisoned  by  the  Scots  after  their  defection.  Cromwell,  on  taking  Edinburgh 
in  1650,  entrusted  him  with  the  comn^and  of  the  Scottish  capital.  He  afterwards  invested  and  took  Hume 
Castle,  after  a  gallant  defence.  The  booty^  which  was  considerable,  was  shared  among  the  sol(Sefy,  excepi 
tome  furniture  and  bedding,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  governor's  lady.  The  colonel  was  a  member  for 
Berwick,  and  one  of  the  parliament-commissioners  to  treat  with  the  Scots.  He,  and  SUr  Arthur  Hesihrige^ 
Bart  Thomas  Bowes,  Henry  Tenipest,  and  James  Clavering,  Esqrs.  were  ^e  of  the  ninety-six  members  not 
faffered  by  Oliver  Cromwell  to  sit  in  his  packed  parliament*  On  the  sale  of  the  lands  of  the  bishopric  ni 
Durham  by  the  parliament,  Cotonel  Fenwick  purchased  the  borou^  of  Sunderland  and  tiie  manor  of  Hough- 
toQ.le*Spring»  9A  November,  )64S,  for  %S5lL  9«.  fid;  and  parcels  of  land  in  Ksrhope,  Ist  Jiu^  1650,  for 
WilL  l6s.  Sd*  He  held  a  court  at  Hougfaton-le-Spring  in  16^,  the  year  of  hie  deiith.  These  pofiseaBionA» 
o(  course,  reverted  to  the  See  on  the  Restoration.  By  Alice,  daughter  of  Sir  Edward  Apsfey,  Colcmtl  Fau 
ifii^  left  two  daugbtera;  ^lissabeth,  who  mairied  Sir  Arthur  Hesilrigc^  Bart ;  and  Dame  Dorothy  Wilfiam^ 
Bon«  who  was  seised  of  one  moiety  of  Monk-Wearmouth,  as  coheir  to  her  lather.  In  1689,  she  purdiaaed  the 
ether  mmety  from  her  nephew.  Sir  Thomas  Hesihige,  and  devised  the  whole  estale  t»  hejp  hwsbaiwt  ^ 
Thomas,  for  lifo,  with  several  remainders  to  her  husband^s  relatives.  Colonel  Fanwick'a  eptefA  tB- given  iH- 
the  account  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed>  page  2S7, 


ENB  OF  VOLUME  I- 


Pzinied  Iqr  Ms^^Q^ic  sad  Dei|t*  Kevcsttlck 


INDEX  TO  VOL.  I. 


Hiilii,  477>  Lindislani,  316. 

Abori^es  of  Northumberland,  1. 

Acton,  489,  Low-hall,  ib.  H  igh-house,  ib« 

Adderstone,  415. 

Agrioola  enters  Northumberland,  31^ 
builds  a  chain  of  forts,  23. 

Agriculture  ancient,  105,  modem,  133. 

Agricultural  implements,  136,  labour*^ 
ers,  300,  wealth,  231. 

Akeld,37a 

Alemooth,  433^  vessels  belonging,  ib^ 
trade,  ib.  antiquities  looad  al;,  Au 

Alfrid*  reign  of,  39. 

Alfwold  kmg  killed,  41. 

Allison  Isaac,  431. 

Alluvial  fossils,  103. 

Aln  river,  75. 

Alnwick  parish,  433,  town,  ib.  streets 
and  pubUc  buildings,  A&^^  churdi 
and  diapels,  436,  schools,  440,  fairs 
and  markets,  441,  public  establish" 
ments,  442,  corporation,  443,  castle; 
448,  history  of,  453,  earls,  455, 
househpuld  of,  465,  abbey,  474, 
Aatcheugh  crag,  481,  Malcolm's  cross 
Ht,  ib.  Percy  tenantry  oolumu,  ib. 

Alston,  manor  of,  98. 

Ancient  customs,  313. 

Ancroft,  337. 

Aneurin,  the  Northumbrian  bard,  31. 

Anfflo-Saxons,  habite  of,  38,  conquer 
Northumberland,  30,  civil  polity  ofj 
34,  families  fly  to  Scotland,  55. 

Antiquities  in  Northumberland)  177* 
■  British,  484. 

Aquatic  birds,  118. 

A^hery  of  the  Borderers,  69« 

Armstrong  Hector,  375. 

— r Rev.  Mr.  398, 

Asses,  109. 

Athelstan  the  Great,  47* 

Bailey  John,  391. 

Bambrough  Ward,  397>  north  division, 
ib.  south  ditto,  418,  parish,  400,  vil* 
lage,  401,  extraordinary  circum- 
stances at,  ib.  persons  excommuni- 
cated at,  ib«  chapel,  ib.  Forsters  o^ 
4Q3,  castle,  erection  by  Ida,  30,  de- 
scription of,  403>  historv  of,  404» 
lord  Crewe's  bequest  to,  409,  chapel 
of,  ib.  Dr.  Sharp's  bequest  to,  4i0a 
sdiools,  ib.  charities,  ib.  coast  neati 
411,  signals  at,  ib. 

Bank  house,  486. 

Baptisms,  summary  of,  360^ 

Barmoor  castle,  380. 

Baron,  origin  of  the  term,* 68. 

VOL.  IL 


Baronies  of  Northumberhadj  68. 

Basiere  Dr.  Isaac,  425. 

Bastle  houses,  63. 

Beadnel,  416,  Hardings  of,  417- 

Beal,Sa9. 

Bedlingtonshire,  344,  town,  345,  works 

'    at,  286. 

Belfbrd  parish,  397»  town,  398^  anti- 
quities at,  400. 

Bell  Jos^h,  383. 

Benefit  Societies  363. 

Bemida,  the  Saxon  name  of  Northttm-* 
berland,  30. 

Berrington,  337- 

Berwidc  upon  Tweed,  366,  name,  ib^ 
historv  of,  266,  walls  and  stre^,  287, 
church  of,  ib*  principal  bmlduigs  of, 
289,  bridge^  391,  owpHiation,  292, 
markets  and  fairs,  294,  trade  and 
commeroe,  295,  pier,  298,  charitable 
institutions,  299,  inhabitants,  302, 
schools  in,  324. 

Blakes  of  Twizell  castle,  337* 

Blakey  Robert,  of  Morpeth,  112. 

Blyth  rivar,  74. 

North,  347. 

Bockenfield,  490. 

Boomer,  431. 

Bevder  dons,  56. 

Borders,  government  ef  the,  63,  devas- 
tations of,  65. 

Borderers  the,  their  maaaexf,  56. 

Boring  for  coal,  86. 

Botanv,  104. 

Bowsdon,  381. 

Bradford,  414. 

Brainshaugh,  489. 

Branxton  parish,  358,  village^  359, 

Bre^e  Greneral,  421. 

Brinkbum  High  and  Low  Ward,  493, 

Sriory,  ib.  present  state  of  ditto,  ibi 
Ir.  Grose's  account  of  ditto,  ilK  his-» 
tory  of  ditto,  495,  grove,  tradition  i^, 
494,  Fenwidcs  of,  495. 

Brislee  tower,  479. 

Britain  Great,  first  discovery  of,  2,  va- 
rious names,  ib. 

British  appeUations,  55. 

Britons  andent,  thdr  persons  and  man-* 
ners,  4,  different  tribes  of,  10,  reli* 
sion  of,  ib.  driven  from  Northum« 
berland,  30. 

Broomridge,  373. 

Brunton  and  Low.Brunton,  423* 

Buckton,  330. 

Budle,  412. 

Buildings,  129. 

Burials,  summary  of^  260. 

6  K 


Burton,  416. 

Caledonians,  21  et  seq. 

Cambois,  347> 

Camphill,  482. 

Canals,  126. 

Carham  parish,  350,  village,  ib. 

Castle,  ^wick,  448,  Bambrough,  403, 
Barmoor,  380,  Chillineham,  389, 
Copeland,  374,  Ford,  3&,  Hager- 
stone,  327,  Hetton,341,  HortQn,^B8, 
Lindisfiurn,  317,  Norham,  332i,  Rox« 
burgh,  272,  TwiaeU,  336,  Wark,  362. 

Cataracts,  77- 

Cattle,  109,  wild,  110. 

CAXm  the,  3. 

Ceolwulph  king  becomes  a  monk,  40. 

Charlton  South  and  North,  424,  hall^  ibf 

Chathill,  424. 

Chatten  parish,  386,  village,  ib.  anti- 
quities found  at,  367- 

Cheswick,  326. 

Cheviot  hill,  395,  inhabitants  of,  396. 

■  sheep.  111. 

Chevy-chase,  396. 

Chillmgham  parish^  389,  viUage,  ib. 
castle  of,  ib.  portraits  at,  ib.  park| 
wild  cattle  at.  111,  390. 

Choak-damp,  92. 

Choppinj||ton,  347* 

Christianity  introduced  into  Britain,  34. 

Chiiston  bank,  423. 

Clanny's  Dr.  safe  lamp,  93. 

Climate,  70. 

Coal  formations,  79,  varieties  o^  83, 
origin  of,  84,  discovery  of,  86,  win- 
ning of,  87,  miners,  90,  mode  of  rais« 
ing,  145,  keels,  149,  commercial  his- 
tory  of,  150. 

Coals,  prioe  o£  157,  annual  export  (^ 
ib.  not  inexhaustible,  159. 

Coal-trade,  its  importance,  161. 

Ooal-tar  works,  169. 

Coke  works,  168. 

Coldbum,  379. 

Coldingham  monastiy,  267* 

Coldstream,  339. 

Colour  manufactures,  166. 

Common  law,  the  origin  of,  14. 

Commons,  extraordinary  family  of,  488* 

Cook  Rev.  Joseph,  387* 

Copeland  castle,  374^ 

Cf^per  xoines,  103. 

Copperas  works,  170. 

Coquet  river,  74* 

CoquetcUleWardi432,ea8tdiviBion,433. 

Cornhill,  338. 

Coupeland  John  de,  374. 

Crane  of  a  colliery,  94. 


498 


INDEX. 


Craster  Sea^hoiuesy  421>  ball,  ib. 
Crasters  of  Craster;  432. 
Crewe's,  bishop,  life,  406. 
Cross  bills,  381. 
CuUerooats,  diifs  at,  7^. 
Culley  George,  106. 


ffe,  IW. 
;bew,  388. 


Matt 

Customary  service,  350. 

Cutbbert  St.  306,  resideaoe  in  Fam 
Island,  321. 

Danes,  tiieir  ferocity  and  beroism,  43, 
conquer  Northumberland,  45. 

Dayy  Sir  H,  93. 

Debord's  Henry  corvorants,  120. 

Denwick,  482. 

Detchant,  400. 

Devil's  Causeway,  404. 

Dial  John,  387- 

Dikes  in  coal  workings,  81. 

Dinning  Mr.  416. 

Ditchbum  East  and  West,  434. 

Divisions  of  Northumberland,  68. 

Dixon  Abraham; c^r^|p^' 

Doddington  parish,  382,  village,  ib. 

Doz^,  424,  hall,  ib. 

Druids  British,  10,  different  classes  of, 
11,  autiiority,  revenue,  and  learning 
of,  12,  temples,  doctrines,  and  cere- 
monies of,  14,  destroyed  by  the  Ro- 
mmtm,  19,  antiquities,  377^  remarks 
on,  ib. 

Dryburgh  abbey,  275. 

Dnddo,342. 

Duke's  Fields,  413. 

Duns  Scotus,  421. 

Dunstan,  ib. 

Dunstanburgh  castle,  419,  present  state 
of,'^ib.  RumUe-dium,  420,  history 
of,  ib. 

Eadbert,  the  eighth  king  that  assumed 
the  cowl,  40. 

Ettrdulf  king  appealsto  pope  Leo  III.  ^. 

Earle  Norl£  and  South,  386,  Selby'ei 
mansion-house  at,  ib.  Old,  ib. 

Easington,  400. 

Edilthryda,  married  nun,  canonized,  39. 

Education,  264. 

Edwin  kmg,  33,  embraces  Christianity, 
34,  his  prosperous  reisn,  35. 

Efffrid's  ambition  and  victories,  38. 

Eubrd,  416,  poor-house  for  mugeers,  ib. 

Ellingfaam  par.  423,  village,  ib.  haU,  ib. 

Elwi3c,329. 

Elyhaugh,  490. 

Embleton  parish,  418,  state  of  educa- 
tion, ib.  villsLge,  ib. 

Entomology,  I2i. 

Brrington  Launcelqt,  318. 

Eshott,  490. 

Estates,  value  of,  132. 

Etal,  370,  castle,  371^  Manners  of,  ib. 

Ethelfrith's  conquests  and  death,  32. 

Sthelred's  crimes  and  death,  41. 

Ethelwold  accepts  the  Northumbrian 
throne,  40. 

Ewart,  3^,  park  house,  ib.  fiunily  of 


St.  Paul'  of,  ib.  sword  blades  found 

at,  383. 
Ewins  Sir  Patrick  Claude  393. 
ExcommunioatioRs  at  Bambraugh,  401. 
Extent  of  Northumberland,  68. 
Falder  Rev.  John,  485* 
Fallowdon,  423. 
Farmers,  character  of,  198. 
Farn  Ishinds,  319,  priory,  320. 
Felkington,  343. 
Felton  parish,  486,  viUage,  487,  kail, 

488,  park,  ib. 
Fenham,  coal  burnt  at,  80. 
— —  in  Ancroft  chapelry,  329. 
Fenton,  394. 
Fenwick,  329. 

George,  496. 

Fenwicks  of  Brinkbum,  495. 

Ferguson  Henry,  431. 

Fire-brick  works,  169. 

Fire-damp,  91. 

Fishes  crustaceous  and  testaceous,  123. 

Fleetham,  417- 

Fiodden,  360,  battle  of,  861. 

Ford  parish,  368,  village,  ib.  castle,  ib. 

Forster's  W.  work  on  ^lid-mines,  94. 

Fossils  alluvial,  103. 

Fowberry,  388,  tower,  ib. 

Framlington  moor,  491,  Low,  492. 

Gardens,  131. 

Geteringe,  battle  of,  375*  * 

OlabS  worics,  lOT. 

Glendale  Ward,  349,    west  division, 

350,  east  ditto,  379. 
GoaU,  112. 
Goswick,  326. 
Grey  Sir  Charles,  first  earl,  or  Viscottut 

Howick,  life  of,  427* 
*—  earl,  428. 
Greya  of  Howick,  pedigree  of,  4S6» 

of  Wark  castle,  357* 

Grindon,  342. 

Guizanoe,  485,  prioary  at,  486« 

Hadrian's  rampart,  22. 

Haggerstone  castle,  327- 

Hacgerstones,  pedigree  of,  328* 

HaS^ell  Sweire,  373« 

Handybide  Mr.  393. 

Harelaw  hill,  375. 

Hates,  112. 

Hartford  house,  348. 

Haxehriggs,  or  Hesdrige,  328, 489, 491. 

Heathpool,  379. 

Hebbum,  391. 

Heckley  Grange,  483,  suicide  at,  ib. 

Helm  on  the  Hill,  490. 

Hempseed's  Ford,  381. 

Hepscot,  348. 

Herman  street,  491. 

Herons  of  Ford,  370. 

Heton  castle,  341,  Greys  of,  ik 

Hetton,  387,  hall,  ib. 

Holy  Feasts,  331. 

Holy  Island,  304,  343. 

Homdiff,  343. 


Horse,  tomb-stone  of,  34d 

Horses,  lOa 

Horton,  388,  castle,  ib. 

Hot-trod  the,  64. 

Houghton  Long  parish,  429,  ntility  of 
making  a  harbour  here,  430,  village, 
ib.  LitUe,  ib.  tower,  ib.  lead-mine^  lb. 

Howbum,  382. 

Howick  parish,  425,  village,  ib.  hall, 
426,  pedigree  of  the  G^eys  «f,  iK 
memoir  or  the  fiivt  earl  Grey,  427^ 
antiquities  found  at,  429. 

Hudspeth  Thomas,  382. 

Hulne  abbey,  477* 

Itumbleton,  383,  entrenchments  at,  ib. 
hm,  battle  of,  d84w 

Hurl-stone,  391. 

James  IV.  death  of,  365. 

Ichthology,  121. 

Ida,  first  king  of  Bemicia,  80. 

Independent  coal  fiMlnations,  83. 

Insula,  bishop  of  Durham,  326. 

Iron  mines,  101,  maliu&etures,  163. 

Islandshire,  303^ 

Keelmen,  character  of  the,  2Id. 

Kenton,  tunnel  at,  87* 

Kerr  Alexander,  385. 

Kilhom,  375. 

Kirk  Newton  parish,  373,  village,  374. 

Knight's  fee  estaUushed,  50. 

Kykie,  329,  aaftiquilacs  at,  33a 

Laidley  Worm  of  Spindlestone  ffeogh, 

416. 
Lancaster  Hiomas  eatl  of,  420. 
Lead  district,  94,  veins  and  eavitieB, 

95,  ore,  preparation  of,  98,  price  oC 

101,  manufactures,  165,  miners,  dta- 

racter  of,  206. 
Learmoutb,  d5ft 
L^unr  parish,  481,  village,  ikr 
Lindisfitfn,  304,  hisfmry  of  the  see  of, 

ib.  tfle  island  of,  315,  abbey  of,  316, 

castle,  317. 
Literary  and  Phildsophical  Society  of 

Newcastle,  104. 
Lomax  John,  392. 
Lonsframlington  ciiapehry,  400. 
Lu(£er,  416,  hall,  ib. 
Lowick  parish,  879,  vilh^,  380. 
Lowrey  William,  esq.  382. 
MseatK  the,  22. 
Malcolm's  cross,  481. 
Mallory  Rev.  John,  487- 
Manners  of  the  Borderers,  56L 
Manners  of  Etal,  371- 
Manufactures,  163. 
Margaret  queen,  420. 
Marriages,  summary  of,  260* 
Marshal  Blind  Johnny,  4861 
Middleton,  400. 
Militia  returns,  262. 
MiUfield,  374. 
Mindnun,  358. 
Mineral  springs,  .75- 
Mineralo(^,  77* 


INDEX. 


499 


Moles,  their  use,  118. 

Monastic  profession,  313* 

Moss-troopers,  64.  ' 

Mowson,  416. 

Muschampes,  881. 

Name  of  r^orthumberland,  67* 

Netherton,  348. 

Nelson's  monument,  489. 

Nent  Force  Level,  96. 

Nesbitt,  389. 

Newcastle  coal  formation,  7^. 

*     ■  to^ra  moor  cdal,  80. 

Newborn,  417,  new  bouses,  ib.  barns,  ib. 

Newmoor  bouse,  492. 

Newsteada,  417. 

Newton  East  and  West  Tor,  379. 
>y  tbe  Sea,  423, 

■  on  tbe  Moor,  486,  ball,  ib. 

New-town,  391. 

Norbamsbire,  330,  village,  ib.  cbiircb, 
antiquity  of  331,  castle,  332,  bistory 
of,  ^. 

Norman  polity,  51. 

Nortbumberland,  aborigines  of,  1,  6, 
Roman  bistory  of,  20,  Anglo-Saxon 
bistory  of,  28,  Anglo-Danisb  bistory 
of,  43,  ceases  to  be  an  independent 
kingdom,  47,  earls  of,  49,.  455,  de- 
vastation of  by  the  Normans,  50, 
kings  of  enumerated,  5^,  general  de- 
scription of,  67,  statistical  view  of, 
221,  value  of  property  in,  223,  no- 
pulatlon  returns  of,  343,  coast,  4ll. 

Nortbumbrians,  ancestry  of,  53,  cbar 
racters,  manners,  and  customs  of,  196. 

Oil  of  vitriol  works,  171* 

Oliver  Nicholas,  412. 

Qrd  East,  325. 

Ornitbok^,  114. 

Osrid  aasaasbwted,  40. 

Oswald's  victory  near  Hexham^  BB, 
founds  Lindis£um,  37* 

OswT  defeats  Penda,  37- 

Otodini  the,  20.    , 

Otttcfaester,  413. 

Pallinsbum,  372. 

Fasten,  375. 

Percy  Thomas,  375. 

— —  Tenantry  Column,  481. 

Percys,  pedigree  of,  458. 

PeregeJ  Rev.  Charles,  423. 

Picts  and  Caledonians  tbe  same,  26. 

Pitmen,  character  of,  208,  261. 

Pits,  depth  of,  80. 

Plantations,  130. 

Poor-laws,  their  effect,  260. 

Population  returns,  243. 

Porpbyritic  formation,  102. 

Potteries,  169. 

Poultry,  121. 

Preston,  seat  of  Edm.  Craster,  esq.  424. 

Rabbits,  112. 

Rail-ways,  147. 

R^or  Lodbrog,  tbe  sea  king,  44,  his 
death-song,  ib. 


Ratcheugh  Crag,  431. 

Ratchivood  417.' 

Ratdiff  Tlfomas  of  North  Shields,  109. 

Redriji^,  384. 

Rennin^n,  422. 

Refineries  of  lead,  165. 

Rental  and  rates,  223. 

Richard  of  Cirencester,  20. 

Riddell's  Ralph,  esq:  race-horses,  488. 

Roads,  125. 

Rodiester  Edward,  302. 

Rock,  422. 

Rogers  Thomas,  430. 

Roman  roads,  195. 

'  stations,  181. 

wall  built,  26,  described,  176. 

Romans  the,  enter  Nortbumberluid,  21, 
final  departure  of,  26. 

Ros  castle,  entrenchment  called,  391. 

Ross,  329. 

Roxburgh  cafttk,  272. 

Ructlidge  wife  of  Tbomas,  383. 

Rumble  Cburn,  420. 

Safety-lamp,  discovery  of,  93. 

Sal-ammoniac  works,  170. 

Salmon,  122. 

Salt  ^iks,  171. 

Sandilands  bay,  430. 

Scotchmen  hanged  iat  Bowsden,  381. 

Scots,  the  origin  of,  29. 

Scremerston,  325. 

Seamen,  their  character,  213. 

Seaton  house,  431. 

Selby  P.  J.  esq.  114,  415. 

Selkirk,  burgb  of,  364. 

Service  James,  420. 

Severus  defeats  the  Caledonians,  23, 
stone  wall  said  to  be  built  by,  ib. 

Shank  ball,  417. 

Sharp  Rev.  Dr.  John,  409. 

Sheep,  110. 

Shepherds,  character  of,  200. 

Sbilbottle  parish,  484,  education,  mi- 
nister's remarks  on,  485,  village,  ik 

Ship-building  yards,  172» 

Shipley,  425. 

Shipping,  amount  of,  174. 

Sboreswood,  343. 

Shoston,  416. 

Sinking  pits,  88. 

Situation  of  Northumberland,  67* 

Siward  earl  of  Northumberland,  48. 

Sleekburn  West  and  East,  34a 

Slugbom  tbe,  59. 

Soap  manufiftctories,  171* 

Soil  and  aspect,  71* 

Spindleston,  414,  Heugh,  laidley  worm 
of,  ib. 

Spittal,  324. 

St.  Fond  on  fflass  works,  167* 

St.  Magnus'  brewery,  394. 

St.  Ninnian's,  394. 

St.  Paul,  fiunily  of,  382. 

St.  Tbomas'  hiU,  420. 

Stamford,  422. 


Statistical  view  of  the  county,  223. 
Steam-engines,  146.    ^ 
Stephenson's  Oeorge  safety-lamp,  93. 
Stockdale  Rev.  P.  359. 
Stratbcluyd  kingdom  the,  31. 
Sunderland  North,  416,  trade  of,  ib. 
Surry  earls  of,  367> 
Swarland,  489,  haU,  ib.  Old.  ib. 
Swansfield  house,  ^2.         / 
Swine,  112. 
Swinboe,  417- 
Tait  Thomas,  412. 
Terraces,  383. 
Tillmouth,  338. 
Thomas  William,  esq.  92. 
Thombill  Mr.  the  botanist,  104. 
Thriston,  490,  bouse,  ib.  East,  ib. 
Toad  found  in  a  dolid  block  of  marble,  389. 
Tom  Tallon's  ^ave  and  crag,  379.     . 
Towers  belonging  to  clergymen,  list  of 

in  Henry  VIIL's  time,  386,  Fow* 

berry,  3&. 
Trade  and  commerce,  173. 
Tugall,  417,  haU,  ib. 
Tumuli  of  the  ancient  Britons,  account 

of,  385.     . 
Turner's  defiance  of  the  Britons,  26. 
Tweed  the,  74. 
Tweedmoutb,  323. 
Twiaell  castle,  336,  bouse,  415. 
Tyne  the>  72. 

Urns  found  at  Bowsdon,  381. 
Vescys,  454,  477- 
Ventilating  of  pits,  89. 
Vivan  Michael,  432. 
WaUaces,  374. 
Wansbedc  river,  74. 
Wardens  of  tbe  Marches,  62. 
Wards  or  divisions,  69. 
Wark  castle,  352,  Ros  fiunily  of,  366, 

Ghrey  fomily  of,  357,  viUage,  35a 
Wamford,  415. 
Wammoutb,  413,  charter  of  Henry  in. 

to  the  borougb  of,  ib.  trade  on  the,  ib. 
Wamton,  416. 
Wastes,  131. 
Watcb-law,  381. 
Waters,  72. 

Waugh  Mr.  botanist,  104. 
Weetwood,  888. 

Weldon  bri^,  492,  Low,  ib.  hall,  ib. 
Wbittle  High  and  Low,  485. 
Wilson  George,  mason,  401. 
Wingate  Jolm,  114. 
Winch  N.  J.  77, 106. 
Wooler  parish,  392,  town,  ib.  streets, 

ib.  markets  and  foirs,  ib.  church,  &c. 

ib.  history  of,  393,  tower  and  walla» 

ib.  inhabitants,  ib.  brid^  end,  394. 
Vevering,  375,  Bell,  376,  Hutchinson's 

account  of,  378,  remarks  on,  ib. 
Youngbusband  J.  and  L.  483. 
Zoology,  108.